332 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
Not discouraged by the reproof conveyed in the decision of the Assembly,
Mr. M'Donald is known in the religious world for his praiseworthy exertions in
various parts of the Highlands, and particularly in behalf of the previously
much-neglected inhabitants of St. Kilda'-the most distant and isolated of all
the islands of Scotland. Commissioned by the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge, his first visit was undertaken in 1822, for the purpose of
ascertaining the religious and moral condition of the inhabitants. In his journal
Mr. M'Donald gives an interesting account of his reception by the natives.
He was accompanied by Mr. M'Lellan, the tacksman of the island; and not
being able to effect a landing on the eastern coast, in consequence of the boisterous
state of the weather, the boat veered round to the leeward, where shelter
was found in an arm of the sea. Upon landing, he and Mr. M'Lellan
walked towards the village, a distance of nearly two miles. " When descending
the brow of the hill above the village," says the journal, "we observed
some persons standing without ; and on a sudden, in consequence, as we afterwards
learned, of his sounding the alarm, all the souls in the village appeared
at once ; at first flying in different directions, until they discovered from what
quarter the strangers were coming, when they made toward us in a body, shook
hands with their tacksman, and welcomed him to the place. After these salutations
were over, he introduced me to them as a minister who had come to visit
them, and was sent by the Society. Upon this they immediately shook hands
with me, as if we had been many years acquainted ; and, ' God bless the Society
which sent him, and God bless him for coming,' was the general exclamation."
Mr. M'Donald remained nearly a fortnight on the island, during which he
embraced every opportunity of preaching to them ; and in his private conversations
entered so warmly into their affairs and interests, that when the day of
departure came, he had much difficulty in sustaining the emotions'with which
the scene overpowered him. Mr. M'Lellan and he were accompanied by the
inhabitants to the beach, where they assisted in launching the boat-took an
affecting farewell-and long after the party had bid adieu to the shores of St.
Kilda, they could still see the group of islanders clustering round the gentle
rising ground, gazing as if unwilling to lose sight of their recent visitors.
The report which Mr. M'Donald submitted to the Society on his return contains
some interesting particulars regarding St. Kilda and its inhabitants. We
need offer no apology for the following extract :-
1 St. Kilda, or Kirta, a solitary isle in the Atlantic Ocean, belonging to the range of the Hebrides,
but removed to a considerable distance from the main cluster. The nearest land to it is Harris, from
which it is distant sixty miles in a west-south-west direction ; and it is about one hundred and forty
mile3 from the nearest point of the mainland of Scotland.-EncycZopdiu Britannica.
Of late a trip to St. Kilda has become a favourite steamboat and pleasure-yacht excursion ; and
some curious, though rather exaggerated, descriptions of the isle and its inhabitants were in circulation
a short time ago. In former days, however, little intercourse was maintained with the mainland ;
and so late as about the middle of last century the island was the prison of the lady of Erskine of
Grange, brother of the Earl of Mar, attainted for his concern in the Rebellion of 1715. The cruel
treatment of the unfortunate lady was attributed to a violence of temper on her part, and a fear on
that of her husband lest she might betray the secrets of the party to which he was attached. She
was a daughter of Chiesley of Dalry, who was executed for the murder of President Lockhart in 1689.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, 333
The length of the island appears to be about three miles from the westernmost point to that
on the north side of the eastern bay, and its breadth nearly two miles from north to south. It
is surrounded with high and almost perpendicular rocks, except on the N.W. and S.E. sides,
in each of which there is a small bay, or arm of the sea ; of which the latter alone affords any
harbouring place for vessels. The land is in general rather elevated ; and there are three hills
of considerable height. Of these, by far the highest is Cmgar, on the north side, supposed to
be upwards of 1400 feet above the level of the sea ; the next, Ornuall-hill, on the east ; and the
third, Rmveil (Gaelic, Rdh-mheall), on the south-west side of the Island.
'( I could discover no old edifices on this island, except that called Christ's Church, near thk
village, and situated in the burying-ground ; and St. Brianan's, a little above the bay, on the
south-west side-both of which are in ruins.
" There are two small islands besides the main one, which are serviceable to the people for
pasture, as well as for the fowls which frequent them. The one is called Soay, sitnate on the
west side of St. Kilda, and separated from it by a narrow channel. It is about a quarter of a
mile long, and scarcely half as broad. The other is Boreray, about four-miles in a direct line
to the north, and a little larger than Soay.
" The ground is used chiefly for pasture ; and the islanders keep a stock of sheep and black
cattle on it, from which they are supplied with articles of clothing, milk, butter, cheese, etc. There
is no moss on the island ; and the only fuel consists of turf cut on the hills, and carried home
a9 it is needed. The group of houses in which the people reside, for it scarcely deserves the
name of a village, is situate a little above the eastern bay, and is composed of twenty small
huts, built with stone, and thatched with turf and straw. Being surrounded with hills on all
sides, except the south and south-east, it is pretty well sheltered, unless when the wind blows
from these quarters.
"All the cultivated lauds lie around the village in scattered and irregular patches ; of
which each family in the island, about twenty in number, has nearly an equal quantity-what
they call a farthingland, or something about two acres, This sows about five firlots of barley
and six of oats, which, with potatoes, are the only crops they raise. Though the soil is naturally
rich, yet, owing to want of good management, it seldom yields above three returns. Hence
they cannot conveniently dispose of much of their grain ; and of late years, indeed, I believe
they have done but very little in this way. Besides, every three years, these lands pass by
lot from one hand to another ; a practice which evidently militates greatly against real improvement.
In making it
into meal, they grind it in querns, or little hand-mills, there being neither windmills nor watermills
in the island.
"Their houses, or huts, are all exactly of the same form and dimensions, and in internal
appearance also completely alike. They consist of but one apartment, in which the family is
accommodated at one end, and the cattle at the other. The walls contain their beds and places
for their stores, for which purpose they are generally six or seven feet thick. No chairs or
tables are to be seen : wooden stools and even stones being made to supply their place. The
ashes are never carried out of the house, nor even removed to the part of the room appropriated
to the cattle, but are spread every morning under the feet of the inmates, in order, aa they call
it, to help the manure. The floor, thus raised in the course of the season to a considerable
height, is reduced to its proper level only once a year, when the whole matter so accumulated
is conveyed to the fields I reasoned with the people on the impropriety of this habit, chiefly
on the ground of ita being injurious to their health and comfort, but to little effect, long
custom having reconciled them to it. As might be expected,'also, their habita in other respects,
and particularly in point of cleanliness and dress, are much of a piece with the interior of their
houses, their persons being extremely dirty, and seeming to undergo no sort of purification,
except once a week ; while their clothes are in general coarse and ragged, though, on Sunday,
both the young men and women dress a little more decently. I was somewhat surprised at not
finding the kilt and hose among them, instead of which, the men commonly wear a jacket or
short coat, with trousers or pantaloons. There is scarcely anything like division of labour
among them, every man being his own tailor, shoemaker, and, in most cases, weaver, there
being no thorough-bred workman of any kind in the island.
" Notwithstanding these habits, it is not a little remarkable that they enjoy such a degree
of health and longevity. During my residence among them, there waa not a single individual
The grain also, as mightrbe expected, is rather of an inferior quality.