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KING’S STABLES, CASTLE BARNS, AND CASTLE HILL. I43
The poet was extremely proud of his new mansion’, and appears to have been somewhat
surprised to fiud that its fantastic shape rather excited the mirth than the admiration of his
fellow-citizens. The wags of the town compared it to a goose pie ; and on his complaining
of this one day to Lord Elibank, his lordship replied, ‘‘ Indeed, Allan, when I see you in
it, I think they are not far wrong! ”
On ‘the death of Allan Ramsay, in 1757, he was succeeded in his house by his son, the
eminent portrait-painter, who added a new front and wing to it, and otherwise modified its
original grotesqueness; and since his time it was the residence of the Rev. Dr Baird,
late Principal of the University. Some curious discoveries, made in the immediate neighbourhood
of the house, in the lifetime of the poet, are thus recorded in the Scots Magazine
for 1754,-(‘ About the middle of June, some workmen employed in levelling the upper
part of Mr Ramsay’s garden, in the Castle Hill, fell upon a subterraneous chamber about
fourteen feet square, in which were found an image of white stone, with a crown upon its
head, supposed to be the Virgiu Mary ; two brass candlesticks ; about a dozen of ancient
Scottish and French coins, and some other trinkets, scattered among the rubbish. By
several remains of burnt matter, and two cannon balls, it is guessed that the building above
ground was destroyed by the Castle in some former confusion.” This, we would be inclined
to think, may have formed a portion of the ancient Church of St Andrew, of which so little
is known; though, from Dlaitland’s description, the site should perhaps be looked for
somewhat lower down the bank. It is thus alluded to by him,--“ At the southern side of
the Nordloch, near the foot of the Castle Hill, stood a church, the remains whereof I am
informed were standiiig within these few years, by Professor Sir Robert Stewart, who had
often seen them. This I take to have been the Chnrch of St Andrew, near the Castle of
Edinburgh, to the Trinity Altar, in which Alexander Curor, vicar of Livingston, by a
deed of gift of the 20th December 1488, gave a perpetual annuity of twenty merks Scottish
money.” In the panelling of the Reservoir, which stands immediately to the south
of Ramsay Garden, a hole is still shown, which is said to have been occasioned by a shot
in the memorable year 1745. The ball was preserved for many years in the house, and
ultimately presented to the late Professor Playfair.
An old stone land occupies the corner of Ramsay Lane, on the north side of the Castle
Hill. It presents a picturesque front to the main street, surmounted with a handsome
double dormer window. On its eastern side, down Pipe’s Close, there is a large and
neatly moulded window, exhibiting the remains of a stone mullion and transom, with which
it has been divided; and, in the interior of the same apartment, directly opposite to this,
there are the defaced remains of a large gothic niche, the only ornamental portions of which
now visible are two light and elegant buttresses at the sides, affording indication of its
original decorations.
Tradition, as reported to us by several different parties, assigns this house to the Laird
of Cockpen, the redoubted hero, as we presume, of Scottish song ; and one party further
a5rms, in confirmation of this, that Ramsay Lane had its present name before the days
of the poet, having derived it from this mansion of the Ramsays of Cockpen.’ Its
Maitland, p. 206.
* The Lairds of Cockpen were U branch of the Rameays of Dalhousie ; Douglas’s Peerage, vol. i. p. 404. Maitland in
his List of Streets, &e., mentions a Ramaay’a Cloae without indicating it on the map. ... STABLES, CASTLE BARNS, AND CASTLE HILL. I43 The poet was extremely proud of his new mansion’, and ...

Book 10  p. 154
(Score 0.4)

Gnonpnte.] JVHN PATERSON. I1
The latter is an anagram on the name of ?John
Paterson,? while the quatrain was the production
of Dr. Pitcairn, and is referred to in the first
volume of Gilbert Stuart?s Edinburgh Magazine
andRevim for 1774, and may be rendered thus:
--?In the year when Paterson won the prize in
golfing, a game peculiar to the Scots (in which his
ancestors had nine times won the same honour), he
then raised this mansion, a victory more honourable
than all the rest.?
According to tradition, two English nobles at
Holyrood had a discussion with the royal duke
as to the native country of golf, which he was
frequently in the habit of playing on the Links of
Leith with the Duke of Lauderdale and others,
and which the two strangers insisted to be an
English game as well, No evidence of this being
forthcoming, while many Scottish Parliamentary
edicts, some as old as the days of James II., in
1457, could be quoted concerning the said game,
the Englishmen, who both vaunted their expertness,
offered to test the legitimacy of their pretensions
on the result of a match to be played by them
against His Royal Highness and any other .Scotsman
he chose to select. After careful inquiry he
chose a man named John Paterson, a poor shoemaker
in the Canongate, but the worthy descendant
of a long line of illustrious golfers, and the association
will by no means surprise, even in the present
age, those who practise the game in the true old
Scottish spirit The strangers were ignominiously
beaten, and the heir to the throne had the best of
this practical argument, while Paterson?s merits
were rewarded by the stake played for, and he
built the house now standing in the Canongate.
On its summit he placed the Paterson arms-three
pelicans vuZned; on a chief three mullets ; crest,
a dexter-hand grasping a golf club, with the wellold
and well-known tradition, Chambers says, ?it
must be admitted there is some uncertainty. The
house, the arms, and the inscriptions only indicate
that Paterson built the house after being victor at
golf, and that Pitcairn had a hand in decorating it.??
In this doubt Wilson goes further, and believes
that the Golfers? Land was Zmt, not won, by the
gambling propensities of its owner. It was acquired
by Nicol Paterson in 1609, a maltman in Leith,
and from him it passed, in 1632, to his son John
(and Agnes Lyel, his spouse), who died 23rd April,
1663, as appears by the epitaph upon his tomb in
the churchyard of Holyrood, which was extant in
Maitland?s time, and the strange epitaph on which
is given at length by Monteith. He would appear
to have been many times Bailie of the Canongate.
known mOttO-FAR AND SURE. Concerning this
Both Nicol and John, it may be inferred from the
inscriptions on the ancient edifice, were able and
successful golfers. The style of the bNilding, says
Wilson, confirms the idea that it had been rebuilt
by him ?with the spoils, as we are bound to
presume, which he won on Leith Links, from ?OUT
auld enemies of England.? The title-deeds, however,
render it probable that other stakes had been
played for with less success. In 1691 he grants
a bond over the property for A400 Scots. This is
followed by letters of caption and hornhg, and
other direful symptoms of legal assault, which
pursue the poor golfer to his grave, and remain
behind as his sole legacy to his heirs.?
The whole tradition, however, is too serious to
be entirely overlooked, but may be taken by the
reader ?or what it seems worth.
Bailie Paterson?s successor in the old mansion
was John, second Lord Bellenden of Broughton
and Auchnoule, Heritable Vsher of the Exchequer,
who married Mary, Countess Dowager of Dalhousie,
and daughter of the Earl of Drogheda. Therein
he died in 1704, and was buried in the Abbey
Church ; and as the Union speedily followed, like
other tenements so long occupied by the old
courtiers in this quarter, the Golfers? Land became,
as we find it now, the abode of plebeians.
Immediately adjoining the Abbey Court-house
was an old, dilapidated, and gable-ended mansion
of no great height, but of considerable extent,
which was long indicated by oral tradition as the
abode of David Rizzio. It has now given place
to buildings connected with the Free Church of
Scotland. Opposite these still remain some of
the older tenements of this once patrician burgh,
distinguishable by their lofty windows filled in with
small square panes of glass ; and on the south side
of the street, at its very eastern end, a series of
pointed arches along the walls of the Sanctuary
Court-house, alone remain to indicate the venerable
Gothic porch and gate-house of the once famous,
Abbey of Holyrood, beneath which all that was
great and good, and much that was ignoble and
bad have passed and repassed in the days that are
no more.
. This edifice, of which views from the east and
west are still preserved, is supposed to have been
the work of ?the good-Abbot Ballantyne,? who
rebuilt the north side of the church in 1490, and
to whom we shall have occasion to refer elsewhere.
His own mansion, or lodging, stood here on the
north side of the street, and the remains of it,
together With the porch, were recklessly destroyed
and removed by the Hereditary Keeper of the
Palace in 1753. ... JVHN PATERSON. I1 The latter is an anagram on the name of ?John Paterson,? while the quatrain was the ...

Book 3  p. 11
(Score 0.4)

discharged by the hand of the Major-General commanding.
From the ? Archieologia Scotica ? we cull the
following curious anecdote :-Soon after the death
of Cromwell, the English Council, in 1660, suspecting
General Monk?s fidelity, sent an order
to remove him from the head of their forces in
Scotland. Their ordinary special messenger, who
received it, concealed its nature, and at once began
his march southward, with the army of Scotland, to
accomplish the Restoration.
When the Puritan gunners in the Castle were
ordered to fire a salute in honour of that event, an
old ?saint? of Oliver?s first campaigns bluntly refused
obedience, saying, ?May the devil blaw me
into the air gif I lowse a cannon this day ! If I do,
that the principal
servant of the former met, near the Canongate-
head, his old friend the messenger, whom
he accosted with cordiality. ? How comes it,?
he asked, ?that you go in this direction, and
not, as usual, to the General at Dalkeith??
?Because my despatches are for the Castle.?
With ready wit the servant of Monk suspected that
something was wrong, and proposed they should
have a bottle together. The messenger partook
freely ; the servant purloined the despatch; Monk
Tower on the accusation of ?complying with
Cromwell in the death of Charles I.?
Thus he found himself a captive in the dungeons
under the same hall in which he had feasted the
Protector, and where he could hear the salutes
fired as the remains of his rival Montrose were
laid in the church of St. Giles. He was brought
to trial in the Parliament House, where Middleton,
with fierce exultation, laid before the peers certain
letters written by the Marquis to Cromwell, all
expressive of attachment to him personally and ... by the hand of the Major-General commanding. From the ? Archieologia Scotica ? we cull the following ...

Book 1  p. 56
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writing of the siege, he says, ? upon the twentieth
day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St.
Anthony?s Kirk, was battered down.? And we
have already referred to the Act of Council in 1560,
by which it was ordered that this block house and
the curtain-wall facing Edinburgh should be levelled
to the sound.
. Immediately opposite St;. Mary?s Church stands
the Trinity House of Leith, erected on the site of
the original edifice bearing that name,
This Seaman?s Hospital was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, and the insctiption which adorned
the ancient building is now built into the south
wall of the new one, facing St. Giles?s Street, and
.
ters :-
?IN THE NAME OF THE
LORD,
YE MASTERIS AND MARINERIS
BYLIS THIS HOVS
TO YE POVR.
ANNO DOMINI, ~555.?
In the east wing of the
present edifice there is preserved
a stone, on which is
carved a cross-staff and
other nautical instruments
of the sixteenth century,
an anchor, and two globes,
with the motto :-
apply those dues in the maintenance of a hospital
for the keeping of ?poor, old, infirm, and weak
matiners.?
Long previous to 1797, the association, though
calling itself ?? The Corporation of .Shipmasters of
the Trinity House of Leith,? was?. A corporation
only by the courtesy of popular language, and posseised
merely the powers of a charitable body ; but
in that year it was erected by charter into a
corporate body, whose office-bearers were to be a
master, assistant and deputy-=aster, a manager,
treasurer, and clerk, and was vested with powersreserving,
however, those of the Corporation of the
city of Edinburgh-to examine, and under its
? Zmtituted 1380. Buiit rj55. RebuiZt 1816.?
?The date of this foundation,? says Daniel
Wilson is curious, Its dedication implies that it
originated with the adherents of the ancient faith,
while the date of the old inscription indicates the
very period when the Queen Regent assumed the
reins of government. That same year John Knox
landed at Leith on his return from exile ; and only
three years later, the last convocation of the Roman
Catholic clergy that ever assembled in Scotland
hnder the sanction of its laws was held in the
Blackfriars Church at Edinburgh, and signalised
its final session by proscribing Sir David Lindsay?s
writings, and enacting that his buik should be
abolished and burnt.? ?
From time immemorial the shipmasters and
mariners of Leith received from all vessels of the
port, and all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain
duties, called ? prirno gilt,? which were expended in
aiding poor seamen ; and about the middle of the
sixteenth century they acquired a legal right to
tained, but they were then ( I 7 7 9) all out-pensioners.
In the inventory of deeds belonging to this
institution is enumerated :-? Ane charter granted
by Mathew Forrester, in favour of the foresaide
mariners of Leith, of thesaid land of ye hospital
bankes, and for undercallit ye grounds lying in Leith. . . also saide yeird. . . dated 26 July, 1567,
sealit and subscnbit be the saide Mat. Forrester,
Prebender of St. Antoine, near Leith.? (?< M o n s
ticon Scotz.?)
During the Protectorate the ample vaults under
the old Trinity House (now or latterly used as wine
stores) were filled with the munition of Monk?s
troops, for which they paid a rent.
? By his Highness? council1 in Scotland, for the
governing theirof: these are to require z,ooo
forthwith out of such moneys dew or schal come
to the hands of the Customes, out of the third part
of the profits arysing from the Excyse in Scotland,
to pay \Villiam Robertson (collector for the poore
of Trinitie House in Leyth) the sornme of A3 15s. ... of the siege, he says, ? upon the twentieth day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St. Anthony?s ...

Book 6  p. 223
(Score 0.4)

writing of the siege, he says, ? upon the twentieth
day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St.
Anthony?s Kirk, was battered down.? And we
have already referred to the Act of Council in 1560,
by which it was ordered that this block house and
the curtain-wall facing Edinburgh should be levelled
to the sound.
. Immediately opposite St;. Mary?s Church stands
the Trinity House of Leith, erected on the site of
the original edifice bearing that name,
This Seaman?s Hospital was dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, and the insctiption which adorned
the ancient building is now built into the south
wall of the new one, facing St. Giles?s Street, and
.
ters :-
?IN THE NAME OF THE
LORD,
YE MASTERIS AND MARINERIS
BYLIS THIS HOVS
TO YE POVR.
ANNO DOMINI, ~555.?
In the east wing of the
present edifice there is preserved
a stone, on which is
carved a cross-staff and
other nautical instruments
of the sixteenth century,
an anchor, and two globes,
with the motto :-
apply those dues in the maintenance of a hospital
for the keeping of ?poor, old, infirm, and weak
matiners.?
Long previous to 1797, the association, though
calling itself ?? The Corporation of .Shipmasters of
the Trinity House of Leith,? was?. A corporation
only by the courtesy of popular language, and posseised
merely the powers of a charitable body ; but
in that year it was erected by charter into a
corporate body, whose office-bearers were to be a
master, assistant and deputy-=aster, a manager,
treasurer, and clerk, and was vested with powersreserving,
however, those of the Corporation of the
city of Edinburgh-to examine, and under its
? Zmtituted 1380. Buiit rj55. RebuiZt 1816.?
?The date of this foundation,? says Daniel
Wilson is curious, Its dedication implies that it
originated with the adherents of the ancient faith,
while the date of the old inscription indicates the
very period when the Queen Regent assumed the
reins of government. That same year John Knox
landed at Leith on his return from exile ; and only
three years later, the last convocation of the Roman
Catholic clergy that ever assembled in Scotland
hnder the sanction of its laws was held in the
Blackfriars Church at Edinburgh, and signalised
its final session by proscribing Sir David Lindsay?s
writings, and enacting that his buik should be
abolished and burnt.? ?
From time immemorial the shipmasters and
mariners of Leith received from all vessels of the
port, and all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain
duties, called ? prirno gilt,? which were expended in
aiding poor seamen ; and about the middle of the
sixteenth century they acquired a legal right to
tained, but they were then ( I 7 7 9) all out-pensioners.
In the inventory of deeds belonging to this
institution is enumerated :-? Ane charter granted
by Mathew Forrester, in favour of the foresaide
mariners of Leith, of thesaid land of ye hospital
bankes, and for undercallit ye grounds lying in Leith. . . also saide yeird. . . dated 26 July, 1567,
sealit and subscnbit be the saide Mat. Forrester,
Prebender of St. Antoine, near Leith.? (?< M o n s
ticon Scotz.?)
During the Protectorate the ample vaults under
the old Trinity House (now or latterly used as wine
stores) were filled with the munition of Monk?s
troops, for which they paid a rent.
? By his Highness? council1 in Scotland, for the
governing theirof: these are to require z,ooo
forthwith out of such moneys dew or schal come
to the hands of the Customes, out of the third part
of the profits arysing from the Excyse in Scotland,
to pay \Villiam Robertson (collector for the poore
of Trinitie House in Leyth) the sornme of A3 15s. ... of the siege, he says, ? upon the twentieth day, the principal block-house of Leith, called St. Anthony?s ...

Book 6  p. 222
(Score 0.4)

iv .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER VIII.
HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d).
PAGE
Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the Scottish TemplarsPrendergast?s Reveng-ters by ROM 11. and 111.-The Lord of the Isles
--Coronation of Jams IL-Muliaper of Jam- 11. and III.-Church, &c, burned by the English-Plundered by them-Its
Restoration by Jam- VII.-The Koyal Vault-Dexription of the Chapel Royal-Plundered at the Revolution-Ruined in r+The
West Front-The Belhaven Monument--The Churchyard-Extent of Present Ruin-The Sanctuary-The Abbey Bells . . . . 50
CHAPTER ,IX.
HOLYROOD PALACE.
First Notice of its History-Marriage of James 1V.-The Scots of the Days of Flodden-A Bnwl in the Palace-James V.?s Tower-The
Gudeman of Ballengeich-His MarriageDeath of Queen Magdalene-The Council of November, 192-A Standing h y Proposed-
The Muscovite Ambarradon Entermined by the Queen Regent . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . 60
CHAPTER X.
HOLYROOD PALACE (continued). .
Queen Mary?a Apartments-Her Arrival in Edinburgh-Riot in the Chapel Royal-?The Queen?s Manes?-Interview with Knox-
Mary?s Marriage with Darnley-The Podtion of G o - T h e Murder of Rizrio-Burial of Darnley-Marriage of Mary and Bothwell-
Mary?s Last Visit to Holyd-Jams VI. and the ? Mad? Earl of BothweU-Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.-
Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood-Charles I.?s Imprisonment-Palace Burned and Re-built-The Palace before 165eThe F?resent
Palace-The Quadrangle-The Galluyof the Kings-The Tapestry-The Audiepce-Chamber . . . . . . . . . 66
.
CHAPTER XI.
HOLYROOD PALACE (comZu&dJ.
The King?s Birthday in 166~-Jams Duke of Alhany-The Duchess of Alhany and General Dabell-Funeral of the Duke of Rothes-
A Gladiatorial Exhibition-Depamuc of the Scottish Household Troops-The Hunters? Company?s Balls-First and Second
Via of the p y a l Family of France-Recent Impropunents-St. h e ? s Yard removed-The Ornamental Fountain built . . , 74 . . . .
CHAPTER XII.
THE MOUND.
The North Loch used for Sousings and DuckinPThe Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels-Accidents in the Loch-Last Appearance of the
Loch-Formation of the Mound--? Geordie Boyd?s Mud Brif-The Rotunda-Royal Institution-Board of Manufactures-History of
the Board-The Equivalent Money-Sii J. Shaw Lefenr?s Report-School of Design-Gallery of Sculpture-Royal Society of
Edinburgh-Museum of Antiquities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
CHAPTER XIII.
THE MOUND (conduded).
The Art Galleries-The National Gallery-The Various Collections-The Royal Scottish Academy-Early Scottish Artists-The Institntion-
The First Exhibition in Edinburgh-Foundation of the Academy-Presidents : G. Watson, Si Wdliam Allan, Si J. W.
Gordon, Sir Carge Harvey, Si Daniel Macnee-The Spaldmg Fund , . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
- CHAPTER XIV.
THE HEAD OF THE MOUND.
The Bank of Scotland-Its Charter-%dry of the Royal Bank Notes for L5 and for *-The New Bank of Scotland-Its Present Aspect
-The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder-The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh-The Fm
Church College and Assembly Hall-Their Foundation-Constitution-Library-Museum-B and Theological
Societies-The Dining Hall, &.-The West Princes Street Gardens-The Proposed Canal and Seaport-The East F?rince~ Street . Gardens-Railway Terminus-Waverley Bridge and Market . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 93 ... .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER VIII. HOLYROOD ABBEY (mnrZu&d). PAGE Charter of W X i I.-Trial of the ...

Book 4  p. 386
(Score 0.4)

374 MEiWORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
charier, one of his mills of Dean, with the tenths of his mills of Liberton and Dean ; and
although all that now remains of the villages of Bell’s Mills and the Dean are af a much
more recent date, they still retain unequivocal evidences of considerable antiquity. Dates
and inscriptions, with crow-stepped gables and other features of the 17th century, are to
be found scattered among the more modern tenements, and it was only in the year 1845
that the curious old mansion of the Dean was demolished for the purpose of converting
the Deanhaugh into a public cemetery. This was another of those fine old aristocratic
dwellings that once abounded in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, but which are now
rapidly disappearing, like all its other interesting memorials of former times. It was a
monument of the Nisbeta of the Dean, a proud old race that are now extinct. They
had come to be the head of their house, as Nisbet relates with touching pathos, owing
to the failure of the Nisbets of that Ilk in his own person, and as such .“ laid aside the
Cheveron, a mark of cadency used formerly by the House of Dean, in regard that the
family of Dean is the only family of that name in Scotland that has right, by consent, to
represent the old original family of the name of Nisbet, since the only lineal male representer,
the author of this system, is like to go soon off the world, being an old man,
and without issue male or female.” The earliest notice in the minutes of Presbytery of
St Cuthberts of the purchase of a piece of family burying-ground, is by Sir William
Nisbet of Dean, in March 1645, the year of the plague. ‘‘ They grantit him ane place
at the north church door, eastward, five elnes of lenth, and thrie elnes of bredth.” It
appears to have been the piece of ground in the angle formed by the north transept and
the choir of the ancient Church of St Cuthbert ; and the vault which he erected there still
remains, surmounted with his arms ; a memorial alike of the demolished fane and the extinct
race. When we last saw it, the old oak door was broken in, and the stair that led down
to the chamber of the dead choked up with rank nettles and hemlock ;-the fittest monument
ihat could be devised for the old Barons of the Dean, the last of them now gathered
to his fathers.
The old mansion-house had on a sculptured stone over the east doorway the date 1614,
but other parts of the building bore evident traces of an earlier date. The large gallery had
an arched ceiling, painted in the same style as one already described in Blyth’s Close, some
portions of which had evidently been copied in its execution. The subjects were chiefly
sacred, and though rudely executed in distemper, had a bold and pleasing effect when seen
as a whole. One of the panels, now in the possession of C. K. Sharpe, Esq., bears the
date 1627. The dormer windows and principal doorways were richly decorated with sculptured
devices, inscriptions, and armorial bearings, illustrative of the successive alliances of
its owners; many of which have been preserved in the boundary walls of the cemetery
that now occupies its site. The most curious of these are two pieces of sculpture in 6amo
relievo, which surmounted two of the windows on the south front. On one of them a
judge is represented, seated on a throne, with a lamb in his arms ; in his left hand he holds
a drawn sword resting on his shoulder, and in his right hand a pair of scales. Two lions
rampant stand on either side, as if contending litigants for the poor lamb ; the one of them
.
1 Nisbet’a Heraldry, vol. ii part 4, p. 32.
a History of the Weat Kirk, p. 24.
Alexander Nisbet, Gent., published the first volume of hie system of
heraldry in 1722 ; his death took place shortly stteiwarda.-V& Preface to 2d Edition Fol. ... MEiWORIALS OF EDINBURGH. charier, one of his mills of Dean, with the tenths of his mills of Liberton and Dean ...

Book 10  p. 411
(Score 0.4)

ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES. 41 I
the entrance to the churchyard, at the foot of the Candlemaker Row, the following moral
distich was originally inscribed :-
Remember, Man, as thou goes by,
AE thou art now, 80 once was I ;
As I am now, 80 shalt thou be ;
Remember, Man, that thou must die.’
The principal gateway, opposite the east end of the church, is a work of more recent
construction, and appears, from the records of Monteith, to have involved the destruction
of the monument of no less illustrious a citizen than Alexander Miller, master tailor to
King James VI., who died in the year 1616. The Old Greyfriars’ Church, as it was styled,
was suddenly destroyed by a fire which broke out on the morning of Sunday the 19th of
January 1845, and presented to the astonished parishioners a blazing mass of ruins as they
assembled for the services of the day. It bore on the north-east pillar the date 1613, and
on a panel surmounting the east gable that of 1614, underneath the city arms. It was a
clumsy, inconvenient, and ungainly edifice, with few historical associations and no architectural
beauties to excite any regret at its removaL It is very different, however,
with the surrounding churchyard, which it disfigured with. its lumpish deformity. Its
monuments and other memorials of the illustrious dead who repose there form an object
of attraction no less for their interesting associations than their picturesque beauty ; while
it is memorable in Scottish history as the scene of the signing of the Covenant by the
enthusiastic leaguers of 1638, and the place of captivity, under circumstances of peculiar
cruelty, of the insurgent Covenanters taken in arms at Bothwell Brig. Like other great
cemeteries it forms the peaceful resting-place of rival statesmen and politicians, and of many
strangely diverse in life and fortune. Here mingle the ashes of George Heriot, the father
of the royal goldsmith ; George Buchanan, Alexander Henderson, Sir George Mackenzie,
Sir James Stewart, Principal Carstairs, Sir John de Medina, the painter; Allan Ramsay,
Colin Maclaurin, Thomas Ruddiman, and many others distinguished in their age for rank
or genius.
The Carmelites, or Whitefriars, though introduced into Scotland in the thirteenth
century, did not acquire an establishment in Edinburgh till 1518, when the Provost and
Bailies, conveyed, by charter dated the 13th April, “ to Jo. Malcolme, provincial of the
Carmelites, and his mcceseors, y’ lands of Green-side, with the chapel1 or kirk of the Holy
Cross y’of.” From this we learn that a chapel existed there in ancient times, of which no
other record has been preserved, and adjoining it was a cross called the Rood of Greenside.
It was the scene of martyrdom of David Stratoun and Norman Gourlay, a priest and layman,
who were tried at Holyrood House, in the presence of James V. ; and on the 27th of
August 1534, were led ‘‘ to a place besydis the Roode of Grepsyd, and thair thei two war
boyth hanged and brunt, according to the mercy of the Papisticall Kirk.”’ The tradition
has already been referred to that assigns the same locality for the burning of Major Weir.
On the suppression of the order of Carmelites at the Reformation, John Robertson, a
benevolent merchant, founded on the site of their convent an hospital for lepers, “pursuant
Monteith’s Theatrum Mortalium, p. 1. The last word is evidently intended to be pronounced in the old broad
Scottish fashion, &e. ’ Inventar of Pious Donations. Knox’s Hist., Wodrow Soc., uol i. p. 60. ... ANTIQUITIES. 41 I the entrance to the churchyard, at the foot of the Candlemaker Row, the following ...

Book 10  p. 450
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98 OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound
and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ?by
rotation from year to year, two only of whom may
be re-elected, and reserving the rights competent
to all parties under the laws of the Church ; with
authority to undertake the general administration
of college property and finances, to give advice in
cases of difficulty ; to originate and prosecute before
the Church Court processes asainst any of the
professors for heresy or immorality, and to make
necessary inquiries for that purpose ; to originate
also, and prepare for the decision of the General
Assembly, proposals for the retirement of professors
disabled by age or infirmity, and for fixing the
retiring allowance they are to receive.? The
convener is named by the Assembly, and his committees
meet as often as may be necessary. They
submit to the Assembly an annual report of their
proceedings, with a summary of the attendance
during the session.
The election of professors is vested in the
General Assembly ; but they are inducted into their
respective offices by the Presbytery. There is a
Senatus Acadet?~icus, composed of the Principal and
professors.
The library of this college originated with Dr.
Welsh, who in 1843 brought the subject before the
Assembly. He obtained large and valuable
donations in money and books from friends and
from Scottish publishers in this country and
America. Among the benefactors were the Earl
of Dalhousie, Lords Effingham and Rutherford,
General McDowall of Stranraer, Buchan of Kelloe,
and others. The endowment now? amounts
to about A139 per annum. The library is extensive
and valuable, numbering about 35,000 volumes. It
is peculiarly rich in patristic theology, ecclesiastical
history, systematic theology, and works belonging
to the epoch of the Reformation.
The museum was begun by Dr. Fletning, but was
mainly indebted to the efforts of the late Mrs.
Macfie of Longhouse, who, at its commencement;
enriched it with a large number of valuable
specimens, and led many of her friends to take an
interest in its development. The geological
department, which is on the same floor with the
class-room, contains a large number of fossils, many
of which are very curious. In the upper museum
is the varied and valuable collection of minerals,
given by the late Dr. Johnston of Durham. In the
same room are numerous specimens of comparative
anatomy, The herbarium is chiefly composed of
British plants.
The endowment fund now amounts to above
&+4,ooo, exclusive of LIO,OOO bequeathed for the
endowment of a chair for natural science.
The whole scheme of scholarships in the Free
Church College originated with Mr. James Hog
of Newliston, who, in 1845, by personal exertions,
raised about A700 for this object, and continued to
do so for eight years subsequently. Legacies and
donations at length accumulated such a fund as to
render subscriptions no longer necessary.
A dining hall, wherein the professors preside by
turn, is attached to the New College, to which all
matriculated students, i.e., those paying the common
fee, or securing as foreigners a free ticket,
are entitled to dine on payment of a moderate
sum.
The common hall of the college is converted
into a reading-room during the session. All
students may become members on the payment of
a trifling fee, and the arrangements are conducted
by a committee of themselves. Since 1867 a large
mnasium has been fitted up for the use of the
students, under the management of eight of their
number, the almost nominal subscription of sixpence
from each being found sufficient to defray
the current expenses.
Westward of the Earthen Mound, the once fetid
morass that formed the bed of the loch, and
which had been styled ?a pest-bed for all the
city,? is now a beautiful garden, so formed
under the powers of a special statute in 1816-20,
by which the ground there belonging originally to
the citizens became the private property of a few
proprietors of keys-the improvements being in
the first instance urged by Skene, the friend of
Sir Walter Scott
In his ?Journal,? under date of January, 1826, Sir
Walter says :-? Wrote till twelve a.ni., finishing half
of what I call a good day?s work, ten pages of print,
or rather twelve. Then walked in the Princes
Street pleasure grounds with the Good Samaritan
James Skene, the only one among my numerous
friends who can properly be termed amicus curarum .
mearem, others being too busy or too gay. The.
walks have been conducted on the whole with
much taste, though Skene has undergone much?
criticism, the usual reward of public exertions,
on account of his plans. It is singular to walk
close beneath the grim old castle and think what
scenes it must have seen, and how many generations
of threescore and ten have risen and passed
away. It is a place to cure one of too much
sensation over eanhly subjects of imitation.?
He refers here to James Skene of Rubislaw, a
cornet of the Light Horse Volunteers, the corps of
which he himself was quartermaster, and to whom
he dedicated the fourth canto of ? Marmion,? and
refers thus :- ... OLD AKD NEW EDINBURGH. [The Mound and ten elders, of whom five shall retire ?by rotation from year to year, ...

Book 3  p. 98
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THE HIGH STREET. 245
house,’’ to which Arnot adds the more definite though scanty information, At the head
of Bell’s ’Wynd there were an hospital and chapel, known by the name of Maison Dieu.’”
Like most other religious establishments and church property, it passed into the hands
of laymen at the Reformation by an arbitrary grant of the crown, so that the original
charters of foundation no longer remain as the evidences of its modern claimants. It is
styled, however, in the earliest titles extant, “ the old land formerly of George, Bishop
of Dunkeld ; ” EO that its foundation may be referred with every probability to the
reign of James V., when George Crighton, who occupied that see from the year 1527
to 1543, founded the hospital of St Thomas near the Watergate, about two years before
his death, and endowed it for the maintenance of certain chaplains and bedemen, (‘ to
celebrate the founder’s anniversary o6it, by solemnly singing in the choir of Holyrood
Church, on the day of his death yearly, the PZaceJo and Dirige, for the repose of his
soul,” &c.~ There can be little doubt, moreover, that the old land, which was only
demolished in the year 1789, was the same mansion of Lord Home, to which Queen
Mary retreated with Darnley, on her return to Edinburgh in 1566, while she was haunted
with the horrible recollections of the recent murder of her favourite, Rizzio, and her mind
revolted from the idea of returning to the palace, the scene of hia assassination, whose
blood-stained floors still called for justice and revenge against the murderers. ‘( Vpoun
the xviij day of the said moneth of Ifarch,” says the contemporary annalist,’ 6‘oup
soueranis lord and ladie, accumpanij t with tua thowsand horssmen come to Edinburgh,
and lugeit not in thair palice of Halyrudhous, bot lugeit in my lord Home’s lugeing, callit
the auld bischope of Dunkell his lugeing, anent the salt trone in Edinburgh; and the
lordis being with thame for the tyme, wes lugeit round about thame within the said burgh.”
Lord Home, who thus entertained Queen Mary and Darnlep as his guests, was, at that
date, so zealous an adherent of the Queen, that Randolph wrote to Cecil from Edinburgh
soon after that he would be created Earl of March ; and although at the battle of Langside
he appeared against her, he afterwards returned to his fidelity, and retained it with
such integrity till his death as involved him in a conviction of treason by her enemies.
In the following reign this ancient tenement became the property of George Heriot, and
the ground rents are still annually payable to the treasurer of the hospital which he
founded.
The portion of. the High Street still marked as the site of this ancient building, is
closely associated with other equally memorable incidents in the life of Queen Mary; for
almost immediately adjoining it, on the east side, formerly stood the famous Black Turnpike
already alluded to,‘ as the town house of Sir Simon Preston, Provost of Edinburgh
in 1567, to which the unhappy Queen was led by her captors, amid the hootings and
execrations of an excited rabble, on the evening of her surrender at Carbery Hill. This
ancient building was one of the most stately and sumptuous edifices of the Old TO,WR It
was lofty and of great extent, and the tradition of Queen Mary’s residence in it had never
been lost sight of. A small apartment, with a window to the High Street, was pointed out
1 Yaitland, p. 189. Arnot, p. 246.
Maitland, p. 154. Keith furnishes this character of the bishop, “A man nobly disposed, very hospitable, and s
magnificent housekeeper ; but in matters of religion not much skilled.” ’ Diurnal of Occurrenta, p. 94. Keith, vol.-ii p. 292. ‘ Ante, p. 79. ... HIGH STREET. 245 house,’’ to which Arnot adds the more definite though scanty information, At the head of ...

Book 10  p. 266
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Newhaven.] REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303
In 1820 there were landed at the old stone
pier of Newhaven, John Baud and fourteen other
prisoners, ?f Radicals ? who had been taken after
the skirmish at Bonny Bridge, by the 10th Hussars
and the Stirlingshire yeomanry. They had been
brought by water from the castle of Stirling, and
were conveyed to gaol from Newhaven in six carriages,
escorted by a macer of justiciary, and the
detachment of a Veteran Battalion.
In the following year, and while railways were
still in the womb of the future, the Scots Magazine
announces, that a gentleman who had left
Belfast on a Thursday, ?reached Glasgow the
same evening, and embarked on board the Tounit
(steamer) at Newhaven on Friday, and arrived at
Aberdeen that night. Had such an event been
predicted fifty years ago, it would have been as
easy to make people believe that this journey would
have been accomplished by means of a balloon.?
About five hundred yards westward oi the stone
pier, a chain pier was constructed in the year 1821,
by Captain (afterwards Sir Samuel) Brown, of the
Royal Navy, at the cost of A4,ooo. It is five
hundred feet long, four feet wide, has a depth
at low water of from five to six feet, and served
for the use of the steam packets to Stirling,
Queensferry, and other places above and below
Leith; yet, being unable to offer accommodation for
the bulky steam vessels that frequent the harbour
of the latter or that of Granton, it is now chiefly
used by bathers, and is the head-quarters of the
Forth swimming club.
It was opened on the 14th of October, ISzr,
and was afterwards tested by a weight of twentyone
tons placed upon the different points of
suspension. In 1840 it became the property of
the Alloa Steam Packet Company.
In 1838 Newhaven was erected into a quoad
sma parish, by the aathority of the Presbytery .of
Edinburgh, when a handsome church was erected
for the use of the community, from a design by
John Henderson of Edinburgh.
Near it, in Main Street, is the Free Church,
designed in good Gothic style by James A. Hamilton
of Edinburgh, an elegant feature in the locality,
but chiefly remarkable for the ministry of the late
Rev. Dr. Fairbairn, who died in January, 1879-
a man who came of a notable race, as the wellknown
engineers of the same name were his
cousins, as was also Principal Fairbairn of Glasgow.
He was ordained minister at Newhaven in 1838.
The great majority of his congregation were fishermen
and their families, who were always keenly
sensible of the mode in which he prayed for those
who were exposed to the dangers of the deep.
During his long pastorate these prayers were.a
striking feature in his ministrations, and Charles
Reade, while residing in the neighbourhood, frequently
attended Newhaven Free Church, and has,
in his novel of ? Christie Johnstone,? given a lifelike
portrait of his demeanour when administering
consolation, after a case of drowning.
Perhaps the most useful of thii amiable old
pastor?s philanthropic schemes was that of the
reconstruction of the Newhaven fishing fleet. He
perceived early that the boats in use were wholly
unsuited for modem requirements, and some years
before his death he propounded a plan for replacing
them by others having decks, bunks, and
other compartments. As soon as a crew came forward
with a portion of the money required, Dr. Fairbairn
had no difficulty in getting the remainder
advanced. Thirty-three large new boats, each
costing about Lzso, with as much more for fishing
gear, were the result of his kindly labours. They
have all been prosperous, and hundreds of the
inhabitants of Newhaven, when they stood around
his grave, remembered what they owed to the
large-hearted and prudent benevolence of this old
ministei.
In 1864 a local committee was appointed for
the purpose of erecting a breakwater on the west
side of the present pier, so as to form a harbour
for the fishing craft. Plans and specifications
were prepared by Messrs. Stevenson, engineers,
Edinburgh, and the work was estimated at the
probable cost of L;~,OOO ; and while soliciting aid
from the Board of Fisheries, the Board of Trade,
and the ,magistrates of Edinburgh, the fishermen
honourably and promptly volunteered to convey ?
all the stonework necessary in their boats or otherwise
from the quarry at? Qleensferry.
The fishermen of Newhaven rarely intermany
With the women of other fisher communities ; and
a woman of any other class, unacquainted with the
cobbling of nets, baiting and preparation of lines,
the occasional use of a tiller or oar, would be useless
as a fisherman?s wife; hence their continued
intermarriages cause no small confusion in the
nomenclature of this remarkable set of people.
The peculiar melodious and beautiful cry of the
Newhaven oyster-woman-the last of the quaint
old Edinburgh street cries-is well known ; and so
also is their costume ; yet, as in time it may become
a thing of the past, we may give a brief description
of it here. ?A cap of linen or cotton,?J says a
writer in Chambers?s EdinQurgh Journal, ?? surmounted
by a stout napkin tied below the chin,
composes the investiture of the hood ; the showy
structures wherewith other females are adorned
,
. ... REV. DR. FAIRBAIRN. 303 In 1820 there were landed at the old stone pier of Newhaven, John Baud and ...

Book 6  p. 303
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1 90 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Previous to the extension or rebuilding of the west portion of the Tolbooth, it had
furnished accommodation for the wealthiest traders of the city, and there also some of the
most imposing displays took place on Charles I. visiting his northern capital in 1633. ‘‘ Upon the west wall of the Tolbooth,” says an old writer,l r‘ where the Goldsmiths’ shops
do stand, there stood ane vast pageant, arched above, on ane large mab the pourtraits of
a hundred and nine kings of Scotland. In the cavity of the arch, Mercury was represented
bringing up Fergus the first King of Scotland in ane convenient habit, who delivered to
his Majesty a very grave speech, containing many precious advices to his royal successor;
” a representation, not altogether in caricature, of the drama often enacted on
the same spot, at a later period, when Jock Heigh,-the Edinburgh Jack Ketch for above
forty years,-played the part of Mercury, bringing up one in ane convenient habit, to hear
a very grave speech, preparatory to treatment not unlike that which the unfortunate
monarch received, in addition to the precious advices bestowed on him in 1633. The
goldsmiths’ ’ shops were latterly removed into the Parliament Close ; but George Heriot’s
booth existed at the west end of St Giles’s Church till the year 1809, when Beth’s
Wynd and the adjoining buildings were demolished, as already described. A narrow
passage led between the church and an ancient three-storied tenement adjoining the
New Tolbooth, or Laigh Council House, as it was latterly called, and the centre one of
the three booths into which it waa divided, measuring about seven feet square, was
pointed out by tradition as the workshop of the founder of Heriot’s Hospital, where both
King James and his Queen paid frequent visits to the royal goldsmith. On the demolition
of this ancient fabric, the tradition was completely confirmed by the discovery of
George Heriot’s name boldly carved on the stone lintel of the door. The forge and
bellows, as well as a stone crucible and lid, supposed to have belonged to its celebrated
possessor, were discovered in clearing away the ruins of the old building, and are now
carefully preserved in the Hospital Museum.
The associations connected with the ancient building we have described, are almost
entirely those relating to the occupants whom it held in durance in its latter capacity as
a prison. The eastern portion, indeed, had in all probability been the scene of stormy
debates in the earlier Scottish Parliaments, and of deeds even ruder than the words of the
turbulent barons. There also the College of Justice, founded by Jamea V. in 1532,
held its first sederunt ; the earliest statutes of the Court requiring that all the lordis sall
entre in the Tolbuth and counsal-houss at viij howris in the mornyng, dayly, and sall sit
quhill xi howris be strikin.” All these, however, had ceased to be thought of for centuries
previous to the demolition of the tall and gloomy prison ; though even in its degradation
it was connected with historical characters of no mean note, having been the final place of
captivity of the Marquises of Montrose and Argyll,’ and others of the later victims of
factious rivalry, who fell a sacrifke to the triumph of their opponents. The main floor of
the more ancient building, in its latter days, formed the common hall for all prisoners,
except those in irons, or incarcerated in the condemned cells. It had an old oak pulpit of
curious construction for the use of any one who took upon him the duties of prison chaplain,
and which tradition,-as usual with most old Scottish pulpits,-affirmed to have been
.
Pidc Canipbell’a Journey, vol. ii. p. 122. Biooll’s Diary, p. 334. ... 90 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. Previous to the extension or rebuilding of the west portion of the Tolbooth, it ...

Book 10  p. 208
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290 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. me Old High Schaol?
display the dresses so used should be given to the
poor.?
For many years the history of the school is little
more than a biographical list of the various masters
and teachers. A fifth class was established in I 614 for
the rudiments of Greek during the rectorship of
John Ray (the friend of Zachary Boyd), who after
being Professor of Humanity in the university for
eight years, regarded it promotion to leave it to
take full charge of the High School ; and when he
died, in February, 1630, his office was again conferred
upon a Professor of Humanity, Thomas
Crawford, who figured prominently amid the
pageants with which Charles I. was welcomed to
the city in 1633, and with Hawthornden and others
composed and delivered some of the bombastic
speeches on that occasion.
In his time the number of pupils fluctuated
greatly ; he complained to the Council that though
they had led him to expect ? 400 bairns at the least,?
he had only 180 when he began office. But there
is no authentic record of attendance at that early
period ; and it is curious that the abstract of the
annual enrolment of scholars goes no farther back
than the Session of 1738-9, while a general matriculation
register was not commenced till 1827.
In December, 1640, Crawford returned to the
university, and was succeeded by William Spence,
schoolmaster of Prestonpans ; but to give all the
successive masters of the institution would far
exceed our space. The masters and scholars had
very indifferent accommodation during the invasion
of Cromwell after Dunbar. His troops made a
barrack of the school-house, and while there broke
and burned all the woodwork, leaving it in such a
state of ruin that the pupils had to meet in Lady
Yester?s Church till it was repaired by funds drawn
from the masters of the Trinity Hospital at the foot
of Leith Wynd.
A library for the benefit of the institution was
added to it in 1658, and it now consists of many
thousand volumes. Among the first donors of
books were John Muir the rector, all the
masters, Patrick Scott of Thirlstane, and John
Lord Swinton of that ilk. At present it is sup
ported by the appropriation of one half of the
n?iatriculation fund to its use, and every way it is
a valuable classical, historical, geographical, and
antiquarian collection. The rector and masters,
with the assistance of the janitor, discharge in
rotation the duties of librarian.
Ap old periodical source of income deserves to
be noticed. In 1660, on the 20th January, the
Town Council ordered ? the casualty called the
b(rir-iZve? to be withheld until the 1st of March.
This was a gratuity presented to the masters by
their pupils at Candlemas, and he who gave the
most was named the King. ? Bleis? being the
Scottish word for blaze, the origin of the gratuity
must have been a Candlemas offering for the lights
and candles anciently in use ; moreover, the day
was a holiday, when the boys appeared in their best
apparel accompanied by their parents.
The roll was then called over, and each boy
presented his offering. When the latter was less
than the quarterly fee no notice was taken of it, but
if it amounted to that sum the rector exclaimed
with a loud voice, Vivat; to twice the ordinary
fee, FZoreai bis; for a higher sum, Fioreaf ter; for
a guinea and upwards, Gloriat! The highest
donor was named the fictor, or King.
The Council repeatedly issued injunctions
against the levy of any ?&is-syZver, or BentsyZver,?
but apparently in vain. The latter referred
to the money for collecting bent, or rushes, to lay
down on the clay floor to keep the feet warm and
dry; and so latelyas the commencement of the
seventeenth century, during the summer season,
the pupils had leave to go forth with hooks to
cut bent by the margins of Duddingston and
the Burgh lochs, or elsewhere. ?Happily,? says
Steven, of a later date, ? all exactions are now unknown
; and at four regular periods in the course of
each session, the teachers receive from their pupils
a fixed fee, which is regarded as a fair remuneration
for their professional labour.?
In those days the pupils attended divine service,
accompanied by their masters, and were frequently
catechised before the congregation. A part of
Lady Yester?s Church, was set apart for their use,
and afterwards the eastern gallery of the Trinity
College church.
In 1680, the Privy Council issued a proclamation
prohibiting all private Latin schools to be opened
within the city or suburbs, and thus the High
School enjoyed an almost undisturbed monopoly ;
and sixteen years after, in the proceedings of the
Town Council, we find the following enactment :-
?Edinbuqh, S@. 11, 1696.-The Council considering
that the High School of this city being
situate in a corner at some distance, many of the
inhabitants, whose children are tender, being unwilling
to expose them to. the cold winter mornings,
and send them to the said school before the hour
of seven, as use is ; therefore, the Council ordain
the masters of the said school in all time coming,
to meet and convene at nine of the clock in the
morning during the winter season, viz., from the
1st of November to the 1st March yearly, and to
teach the scholars till twelve, that which they were ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. me Old High Schaol? display the dresses so used should be given to the poor.? For ...

Book 4  p. 290
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LEITH AND THE NEW TO WN. 359
thereto by the United Corporations of Leith, exclusive of that of the Mariners, the wealthiest
and most numerous class of privileged citizens, whose Hospital, dedicated to the Holy
Trinity, stood directly opposite to St Mary’s Church, on the site now occupied by the
Trinity House. The inscription which adorned the ancient edifice is built into the south
wall of the new buildiug at the corner of St Giles’ Street, cut in large and highly ornamental
antique characters-h THE NAME OF THE LORD VE MASTERIS AND MARENELIS
BYLIS THIS HOTS TO YE POVR. ANNO DOMIN1I 555. The date of this foundation is
curious. Its dedication implies that it originated with the adherents of the ancient faith,
while the date of the old inscription indicates the very period when the Queen Regent
assumed the reins of government. That same year John Knox landed at Leith on his
return from exile ; and only three years later, the last convocation of the Roman Catholic
clergy that ever assembled in Scotland under the sanction of its laws, was held in the
Blackfriars’ Church at Edinburgh, and signalised its final session by proscribing Sir David
Lindsay’s writings, and enacting that his (( buik should be abolished and brunt.”
To the east of the Trinity House, on the north side of the Kirkgate, a very singular
building fronts the main street at the head of Combe’s Close. The upper stories appear
to have been erected about the end of the sixteenth century, and form rather a neat and
picturesque specimen of the private buildings of that period. But the ground floor presents
different and altogether dissimilar features. An arcade extends along nearly the
whole front, formed of semicircular arches resting on massive round pillars, finished with
neat moulded capitals. Their appearance is *such that even an experienced antiquary,
if altogether ignorant of the history of the locality, would at once pronounce them to be
early and very interesting Norman remains. That they are of considerable antiquity
canuot be doubted. The floor of the house is now several feet below the level of the
street; and the ground has risen so much within one of them, which is an open archway
giving access to the court behind, that a man of ordinary stature has to stoop considerably
in attempting to pass through it. No evidenae is more incontrovertible as to the great
age of a building than this. Other instances of a similar mode of construction are,
however, to be found in Leith, tending to show that the style of architecture is not a safe
criterion of the date of their erection. The most remarkable of these is an ancient edifice
in the Sheep’s Head Wynd, the ground floor of which is formed of arches constructed
in the same very early style, though somewhat plainer and less massive in character,
while over the doorway of the projecting staircase is cut in ornamental characters the
initials and date, D. W., M. W., 1579. The edifice, though small and greatly dilapidated,
is ornamented with string courses and mouldings, and retains the evidences of former
grandeur amid its degradation and decay.‘ Maitland refers to another building, still
standing at the north-west corner of Queen Street, which, in his day, had its lower story
in the form of an open piazza, but modern alterations have completely concealed this
antique feature. Here was the exchange or meeting-place of the merchants and traders
of Leith for the transaction of business, as was indicated by the popular name of the
Bursa-evidently a corruption of the French term Bourse-by which it was generally
known at a very recent period. The arches in the Kirkgate have also been closed up and
. 1 This teuement is erroneously pointed out in Campbell‘s History of Leith aa bearing the earlieat date on any private
editice in the town. ... AND THE NEW TO WN. 359 thereto by the United Corporations of Leith, exclusive of that of the Mariners, the ...

Book 10  p. 394
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342 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Such are a few of the great names associated with the ancient thoroughfare which we have
seen so recklessly destroyed, and which, until its sudden doom was pronounced, seemed
like a hale and vigorous octogenarian, that had defied the tooth of time while all around
was being transmuted by his touch.
On the lowest part of the declivity of the Bow, a handsome, though somewhat heavy
conduit, erected by Robert Mane in 1681, bears the name of the Bow-foot Well.
Directly facing this, at the south-west angle of the Grassmarket, there stood of old the
Monastery of the Franciscans or Greyfriars, founded by James I., for the encouragement
of learning. In obedience to an application from that monarch, the Vicar-General of the
Order at Cologne sent over to Scotland some of the brethren, under the guidance of
Cornelius of Zurich, a scholar of great reputation ; but such was the magnzcence of the
monastic buildings prepared for them that it required the persuasive influence of the
Archbishop of St Andrew’s to induce Cornelius to accept the office of Prior. That the
monastery was a sumptuous foundation, according to the times, is proved by its being
assigned for the temporary abode of the Princess, Mary of Guelders, who immediately after
her arrival at Leith, in June 1449, proceeded on horseback, behind the Count de Vere,
to her lodging in the Convent of the Greyfriars in Edinburgh, and there she was visited by
her royal lover, James II., on the following day.’ A few years later it afforded an asylum
to Henry VI. of England, when he fled to Scotland, accompanied by his heroic Queen,
Margaret, and their son, Prince Edward, after the fatal battle of Towton. That a church
would form a prominent feature of this royal foundation can hardly be doubted, and we
are inclined to infer that the existence both of it, and of a churchyard attached to it, long
before Queen Mary’s grant of the gardens of the monastery for the latter purpose, is
implied in such allusions as the following in the Diurnal of Occurrents, July 7, 1571.
(‘ The hail1 merchandis, craftismen, and personis remanand within Edinburgh, maid thair
moustaris in the Gray Frear Kirk yaird; ” and, again, where Birrel in his Diary, April
26, 1598, refers to the (( work at the Gray Friar Kirke,” although the date of erection
of the more modern church is only 1613. The exact site of these monastic buildings is
proved from the titles of the two large stone tenements which present their picturesque
and antique gables to the street, immediately to the west of the entrance from the Cowgate.
The western tenement is described as (( lying within the burgh of Edinburgh, at
the place called the Grayfreres,” while the other is styled that Temple tenement of land,
lying at the head of the Cowgate, near the Cunzie nook, beside the Minor, or Greyfriars,
on the east, and the common King’s High Street, on the north parts.” Beyond this, in
the Candlemaker Row, a curious little timber-fronted tenement appears, with its gable
surmounted with the antique crow-steps we have described on the Mint buildings and
elsewhere ; an open gallery projects in front, and rude little shot windows admit the light
to the decayed and gloomy chambers within. This, we presume, to be the Cunzie nook
referred to above, a place where the Mint had no doubt been established at 6ome early
period, possibly during some of the strange proceedings in the Regency of Mary of Guize,’
1 Caledonia, voL i p. 599.
“ Vpoun the 21 day of Julij [1559], Jamea, commendatare of Sanctandrois, and Alexander, erle of Glencarne,
with thair assistaria callit the congregatioun, past from Edinburgh to Halyrudhous, and thair tu& and iotromettit with
the irois of the cuneehous, and brocht the same to the said burgh of Edinburgh, to the priour of Sanctandrois lugeing, ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. Such are a few of the great names associated with the ancient thoroughfare which we ...

Book 10  p. 374
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296 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Uuhnsrone Terrace.
selection, without regard to the Government order of
merit. The programme of instruction is prescribed
by the Education Department ; but the Education
Committee of the Scottish Church are not limited
by it, and give religious instruction on the basis of
the Bible and Shorter Catechism, while promoting
the study of Latin and elementary science. The
All students pay annually A2 each, a contribution
to the book fund of the Training College, in
return for which all necessary books are given to
them by the committee ; and this payment must
be made by all, whether the books are taken or
not.
These colleges date from about the year 1840.
PLAN FOR OPENING A COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE NORTH AND SOUTH SIDES OF THE CITY BY MEANS OF
A BRIDGE, ENTERING THE LAWNMARKET NEARLY OPPOSITE BANK STREET.
(Fmnr an Eirgrawing in the ?Scotr? Magnsinc,? 1817.)
students do not enter un?.il they are eighteen years
of age at least, and thF, principles and practice of
teaching have a prorhent place among the subjects
of instruction.
Bursaries of the average value of LZI per
annum, in addition to free education, are given to
all the male students ; while a considerable number
of the average value of LIZ is given to the female
students, from whom alone a fee for education is
expected.
That in Johnstone Terrace was built to succeed an
older (and less suitably equipped) edifice, which
stood in what used to be called Market Street,
near the Waverley Station, and near the Bank of
Scotland.
Westward of the Training College, on the Castlebank,
and facing the Grassmarket, a barrack for
married soldiers stands, and there any soldier
passing through Edinburgh, on obtaining permission,
may pass the night. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Uuhnsrone Terrace. selection, without regard to the Government order of merit. The ...

Book 2  p. 296
(Score 0.39)

[North Bridge. __ 362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
Magazine (started in Edinburgh), and minister of? son of Sir Michael Balfour of Denmylne. An emithe
Congregational church in Glasgow. I nent physician and botanist, he was born in 1630,
In 1828, on the 8th of June-the fiftieth year of graduated in medicine at St. Andrews, prosecuted
his ministry being complete-a hundred gentlemen, his medical studies under the famous Harvey in
? connected with Lady Glenorchy?s chapel, enter- I London, after which he visited Blois, to see the
t:tined Dr. Jones at a banquet given in his honour , celebrated botanical garden of the Duke de ~~ at the Waterloo Tavern, and presented him ?with
an elegant silver vase, as a tribute of the respect
and esteem which the people entertained for the
..uniform uprightness of his conduct during the long
period they had enjoyed his ministry.?
Lady Glenorchy?s chapel and school were alike
demolished in 1845, as stated. The former, as a
foundation, is now in Roxburgh Place, as a chapel
in connection with the Establishment. ? It has now
a quoad sacm district attached to it,? says FuZZarton?s
Gazetteer; ?? the charge h 1835 was collegiate.
<There is attached to the chapel a school attended
by IOO or 120 poor children.?
In the same quiet and secluded hollow, overlooked
by the Trinity Church and Hospital, the
Orphan Hospital, and the Glenorchy Chapel-in
the very bed of. what was once the old loch, and
where now prevail all the bustle and uproar of
one of the most confused of railway termini, and
where, ever and anon, the locomotive sends up its
shriek to waken the echoes of the Calton rocks 01
the enormous masses of the Post-office buildings,
and those which flank the vast Roman-like span of
the Regent Bridge-lay the old Physic Gardens,
for the creation of which Edinburgh was indebted
to one or two of her eminent physicians in the
seventeenth century.
They extended between the New Port at the
foot of Halkerston?s Wynd, i.e., from the east side 01
the north bridge to the garden of the Trinity
College Hospital, which Lord Cockburn describes
as being ?? about a hundred feet square ; but it is
only turf surrounded by a gravel walk. An old
thorn, and an old elm, destined never to be in leaf
again, tell of old springs and old care. And there
is a wooden summer house, which has heard many
ipi old man?s crack, and seen the sun soften many
an old man?s wrinkles.?
In Gordon of Rothiemay?s view this particular
garden (now among the things that were) is shown
as extending from the foot of Halkerston?s Wyiid
to the west gable of the Trinity Hospital, and
northward in a line with the tower of the church.
From the New Port, the Physic Garden, occupying
much of that we have described, lay north
cross the valley, to where a path between hedgerows
led to the Orphan Hospital. It is thus shown
in Edgar?s plan, in 1765. .
1 It owed its origin to Sir Andrew Balfour, the
Guise, then kept by his countryman Dr. Robert
Morison, author of the ?? Hortus Regius Bloisensis,?
and afterwards, in 1669, professor of botany at
Oxford.
In 1667 Balfour commenced to practise as a
physician in St. Andrews, but in 1670 he removed
to Edinburgh, where among other improvements he
introduced the manufacture of paper into Scotland.
Having a small botanical garden attached to his
house, and chiefly furnished with rare seeds sent by
his foreign correspondents, he raised there many
plants never before seen in Scotland. His friend
and botanical pupil, Mr. Patrick Murray of Livingstone,
had formed at his seat a botanic garden containing
fully a thousand specimens of plants ; and
after his death Dr. Balfour transferred the whole
of this collection to Edinburgh, and, joining it to
his own, laid the foundation of the first botanic
garden in Scotland, for which the magistrates allotted
him a part of the Trinity garden, and then,
through the patronage of Sir Robert Sibbald, the
eminent physician and naturalist, Mr. James Sutherland,
an experienced botanist, was appointed headgardener.
After this Balfour was created a baronet by
Charles 11. He was the first who introduced the
dissection of the hunian body into Scotland; he
planned the present Royal College of Physicians,
projected the great hospital now known as the
Royal Infirmary; and died full of honours in 1694,
bequeathing his museum to the university.
It was in September, 1676, that he placed the
superintending of the Physic Garden under James
Sutherland, who was by profession a gardener, but
of whose previous history little is known. ? By his
ownindustry,? says Sir Robert SibbaId, ?heobtained
to great knowledge of plants,? and seems to have
been one of those self-made men of whom Scotland
has produced so many of whom she may well be
proud. In 1683 he published his ?Norizcs Nedicus
Edinburgensis, or a catalogue of the plants in the
Physic Gardens at Edinburgh, containing the
most proper Latin and English names,? dedicated
to the Lord Provost, Sir George Drummond. In
his little garden in the valley of the North Loch
he taught the science of herbs to the students of
medicine for small fees, receiving no other encouragement
than a salary of A20 from the city, which
did not suffice to pay rent and Servants? wages, to ... Bridge. __ 362 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. Magazine (started in Edinburgh), and minister of? son of Sir Michael ...

Book 2  p. 362
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Craigcrook.] HISTORY OF CRAIGCROOK. 107
summer residence of Lord Jeffrey-deeply secluded
amid coppice.
The lands of Craigcrook appear to have belonged
in the fourteenth century to the noble family of
Graham. By a deed bearing date 9th April, 1362,
Patrick Graham, Lord of Kinpunt, and David
Graham, Lord of Dundaff, make them over to
John de Alyncrum, burgess of Edinburgh. He
in turn settled them on a chaplain officiating at
?Our Lady?s altar,? in the church of St. Giles,
and his successors to be nominated by the magistrates
of Edinburgh.
John de Alyncrum states his donation of those
lands of Craigcrook, was ? to be for the salvation
of the souls of the late king and queen (Robert
and Elizabeth), of the present King David, and of
all their predecessors and successors ; for the salvation
of the souls of all the burghers of Edinburgh,
their predecessors and successors ; of his own father
and mother, brothers, sisters, etc. ; then of himself
and of his wife; and, finally, of all faithful souls
deceased.?
The rental of Craigcrook in the year 1368 was
only A6 6s. 8d. Scots per annum; and in 1376 it
was let at that rate in feu farm, to Patrick and
John Lepars.
At an early period it became the property of
the Adamsons. William Adamson was bailie of
Edinburgh in 1513, and one of the guardians of
the city after the battle of Flodden, and Williim
Adamson of Craigcrook, burgess of Edinburgh
(and probably son of the preceding), was killed at
the battle of Pinkie, in 1547 ; and by him or his
immediate successors, most probably the present
castle was built-an edifice wbich Wood, in his
learned ?? History of Cramond Parish,? regards
as one of the most ancient in the parish.
In consequence of the approaching Reformation,
the proceeds of the lands were no longer required
for pious purposes, and the latter were made over by
Sir Simon Prestonof Craigmillar, when Provost, to Sir
Edward Marj oribanks, styled Prebend of Craigcrook.
They were next held for a year, by George Kirkaldy,
brother of Sir James Kirkaldy of Grange in
Fifeshire, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, who
engaged to pay for them A27 6s. 8d. Scots.
In June, 1542, they reverted again to Sir Edward
Majoribanks, who assigned them in perpetual feufarm
to William Adamson before-named. This
wealthy burgess had acquired much property in
the vicinity, including Craigleith, Cammo, Groat
Hall, Clermiston, Southfield, and part of Cramond
Regis. After Pinkie he was succeeded by his son
William, and Craigcrook continued to pass through
several generations of his heirs, till it came into
~~
the hands of Robert Adamson, who, in 1656, sold
to different persons the whole of his property.
Craigcrook was purchased by John Muir, merchant
in Edinburgh, whose son sold it to Sir John
Hall, Lord Provost of the city in 1689-92. He was
created a baronet in 1687, and was ancestor of the
Halls of Dunglass, on the acquisition of which, in
East Lothian, he sold Craigcrook to Walter Pringle,
advocate, from whose son it was purchased by John
Strachan, clerk to the signet.
When the latter died in 1719, he left the whole
of his property, with North Clermiston and the
rest of his fortune, both in land and movables
(save some small sums to his relations) ?? mortified
for charitable purposes,?
The regulations were that the rents should be
given to poor old men and women and orphans ;
that the trustees should be ?two advocates, two
Writers to the Signet, and the Presbytery of Edinburgh,
at the sight of the Lords of Session, and any
two of these members,? for whose trouble one
hundred merks yearly is allowed.
There are also allowed to the advocates, poor
fifty merks Scots, and to those of the writers to the
signet one hundred merks ; also twenty pounds
annually for a Bible to one of the members of the
Presbytery, beginning with the moderator and
going through the rest in rotation.
This deed is dated the 24th September, 1712.
The persons constituted trustees by it held a meeting
and passed resolutions respecting several
points which had not been regulated in the will. A
clerk and factor, each with a yearly allowance of
twenty pounds, were appointed to receive the
money, pay it out, and keep the books.
They resolved that no old person should be
admitted under the age of sixty-five, nor any orphan
above the age of twelve; and that no annuity
should exceed five pounds.
Among the names in a charter by William
Forbes, Provost of the Collegiate Church of St.
Giles, granting to that church a part of the ground
lying contiguous to his manse for a burial-place,
dated at Edinburgh, 14th January, 1477-8, there
appears that of Ricardus Robed, jrebena?anks de
Cragmk mansepropie (? Burgh Charters.?)
Over the outer gate of the courtyard a shield
bore what was supposed to have been the arms of
the Adamsons, and the date 1626 ; but Craigcrook
has evidently been erected a century before that
period. At that time its occupant was Walter
Adamson, who succeeded his father Willian~
Adamson in 1621, and whose sister, Catharine,
married Robert Melville of Raith, according to
the Douglas Peerage. ... HISTORY OF CRAIGCROOK. 107 summer residence of Lord Jeffrey-deeply secluded amid coppice. The lands ...

Book 5  p. 107
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THE CANONGA TE AND ABBE Y SANCTUAR Y. 307
roof the dignitaries of the Church, the nobles attending on the old Scottish Kings, and
the beauties of Queen Mary’s Court, passed and repassed into the Abbey Close. This
interesting and highly ornamental portion of the ancient monastic buildings was, in all
probability, the work of the good Abbot Ballantyne, who rebuilt the north side of the
church in the highly ornate style of his time, about 1490, and erected the chapel of St
Ninian, North Leith, and the old atone bridge that led to it, which was demolished in
1789 to make way for the present upper drawbridge. Adjoining this ancient porch,
formerly stood Abbot Ballantyne’s ‘‘ great house or lodging, with the yard thereof, lying
beside the port pf Holyrood House, on the north aide of the street.” The groined archway
of the fine old porch, with the remains of the good Abbot’s lodging, forming, with
the exception of the chapel, the most ancient portions of the Abbey Palace that then
remained, were recklessly demolished by the hereditary keeper in 1753, in order, it is
said, to transfer his apartments from the gate-house to the main building of the Palace.
A small and unpretending dwelling, which now occupies part of the site of the Abbot’s
mansion, may perhaps excite some interest in the minds of certain curious readers as
having once been the house of the notorious Lucky Spence, celebrated in the verses of
Allan Ramsay in terms somewhat more graphic than poetical.’ A singular discovery was
made about fourteen years since, during the progress of some alterations on this building,
which furnishes a vivid illustration of the desperate deeds occasionally practised under the
auspices of its former occupant. In breaking out a new window on the ground floor, a
cavity was found in the solid wall, containing the skeleton of a child, with some remains
of a fine linen cloth in which it had been wrapped. Our authority, a worthy shoemaker,
who had occupied the house for forty-eight years, was present when this mysterious
discovery was made, and described very graphically the amazement and horror of the
workman, who threw away his crow-bar, and was with difficulty persuaded to resume
his operations.
At the corner of the Horse Wynd, and immediately to the west of the Abbey Court-
House, a dilapidated mansion of considerable extent is- pointed out traditionally as the
residence of the unfortunate Rizzio, though it is an erection of probably a century later
than the bloody deed that has given so much interest to the name of the Italian favourite.
A curious and exceedingly picturesque court is enclosed by the buildings behind, and
bore in earlier times the name of the Chancellor’s Court, having probably at some period
formed the residence of that eminent official dignitary. It is described in the title-deeds
as bounded by “the venal1 leading to the king’s stables on the south, and the Horse
Wynd on the west parts ; ” a definition which clearly indicates the site of the royal mews
to have been on the west side of the Abbey Close. More recent and trustworthy traditions
than those above referred to, point out a large room on the first floor of this house as
having been the scene of some interesting proceedings connected with the rehearsal of
Home’s Douglas, in which the reverend author was assisted by sundry eminent lay and
clerical friends. In the cast of the piece furnished by Mr Edward Hialopa good
authority on Scottish theatricals-Principal Robertson, David Hume, Dr Carlyle of
Inveresk, and the author, take the leading male parts, while the ladies are represented by
Professor Ferguson and Dr Blair, the eminent divine 1 Notwithstanding, however, the
Lucky Spence’s Last Advice. Ramsay’s Poems, 4t0, p. 33. ... CANONGA TE AND ABBE Y SANCTUAR Y. 307 roof the dignitaries of the Church, the nobles attending on the old ...

Book 10  p. 335
(Score 0.39)

Bell?s Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63
portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at
~ 6 , St John Street, in the Canongate, in January)
1794, while that street and much of the neighbour.
hood around it were still the centre of the literaq
and fashionable society of the then secluded
capital of Scotland.
Thus she was old enough to have seen and
known many who were ? QUt with the Prince ? b
1745, and reminiscences of these people and 01
their days were ever a favourite theme with hei
when she had a sympathetic listener. ?Old
maiden ladies,? she was wont to say, with a sort 01
sad pitifulness in her tone, ?were the last lea1
Jacobites in Edinburgh ; spinsterhood in its loneli.
ness remained then ever true to Prince Charlit
and the vanished dreams of youth.? Lady Sinclaii
used to relate how in the old Episcopal Chapel in
the Cowgate, now St. Patrick?s Church, the last
solitary representative of these Jacobite ladies nevei
failed to close her prayer-book and stand erect, in
d e n t protest, when the prayer for King George 111.
?( and the reigning family ? was read in the Church
Service. Early in her girlhood her family removed
from St. John Street to Picardy Place, and the
following adventure, which she used to relate,
curiously evinces the difference between the social
customs of the early years of this century and those
of the present day.
? Once, when she was returning from a ball, the
bearers of her sedan-chair had their bonnets carried
off by the wind, while the street oil-lamps were
blown out, and the ? Donalds ? departed in pursuit
of their head-gear. It was customary in those
times for gentlemen to escort the sedan-chairs
that held their fair partners of the evening, and
the two gentlemen who were with her-the Duke
af Argyle and Sir John Clerk of Penicuickseized
hold of the spokes and carried her home.
?Gentlemen were gentlemen in those days,? she was
wont to add, ?and Edinburgh was the proper
residence of the Scottish aristocracy-not an inn
.or a half-way house between London and the
Highland muirs.? ?
In 1821 she was married to Mr. Sinclair, afterwards
Sir John Sinclair, Bart., of Dunbeath, and
for fifty years afterwards her home was at the
House of Barock, in Caithness, where her influence
among the poor was ever felt and gratefully
acknowledged. She was a staunch and
amusingly active Liberal, and, with faculties clear
and unimpaired in the last week of her long life,
noted and commented on Mr. Gladstone?s famous
? hlidlothian speeches,? and rejoiced over his
success. She was always scrupulously dressed,
and in the drawing-room down to the day of
her death. She saw all her children die before
her, in early or middle life; her eldest, Colonel
Sinclair, dying in India in his forty-fifth year. After
Sir John?s death she settled in Edinburgh.
?I am the last leaf on the outmost bough,?
she was wont to say, ?and want to fall where I
was born.? And so she passed away.
When she was interred within the Chapel Royal
at Holyrood, it was supposed that she would be one
of the last to whom that privilege would be accorded.
It was not so ; for the remains of James,
Earl of Caithness, who died in America, were laid
there in April, 1881.
The Dean, or Den, seems to have been the old
general name for the rocky hollow now spanned
by the stately bridge of Telford.
Bell?s Mills, a hamlet deep down in a grassy
glen, with an old bridge, aver which for ages lay
the only road to the Queensferry, and now overshadowed
by fashionable terraces and crescents, is
described by Kincaid in 1787 as a village, ?one and
three-quarter niiles north-west of Edinburgh, on the
north bank of the Water of Leith, and .a quarter
of a mile west of West Leith village.? * It received
its name from an old proprietor of the
flour-mills, which are still grinding there, and have
been long in existence. ?? On Thursday night
last,? says the Zdinburgh Advertseer of 3rd January:
1764, ? the high wall at Bells Brae, near the
Water of Leith Bridge, fell down, by which accident
the footpath and part of the turnpike road are
carried away, which makes it hazardous for carriages.
This notice may be of use to those who have
occasion to pass that road.?
At the head of the road here, near the Dean
Bridge, is a Free Church, built soon after the
Disruption-a little edifice in the Saxon style, with
a square tower ; and a quaint little ancient crowstepped
building, once a toll-house, has built into
it some of the old sculpture from the Dean House.
At the foot of the road, adjoining Bell?s Mills
Bridge, are old Sunbury distillery and house, in a
lelta formed by the Leith, which sweeps under a
steep and well-wooded bank which is the boundary
3f the Dean Cemetery.
The Water of Leith village, which bears marks of
peat antiquity, is fast disappearing amid the enxoachments
of modern streets, and yet all that renains
of it, deep down in the rocky hollow, where
:he stream, flowing under its quaint old bridge,
3etween ancient mills, pours in a foaming sheet
wer a high, broad weir, is wonderfully striking
ind picturesque. Dates, inscriptions, crowstepped
:ables, and other features of the seventeenth
:entury, abound here in profusion.
. ... Mills.] LADY SINCLAIR. 63 portray. She was born Margaret Learmouth, at ~ 6 , St John Street, in the ...

Book 5  p. 63
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312 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
“he tenement directly opposite to the site of St Mary’s Chapel, and forming the south
side of the alley leading into Boyd’s Close, is curious, as having been the residence of
James Norrie, painter, the celebrated decorator during the earlier part of last century,
to whom we have already frequently referred. His workshops lay immediately behind, and
adjoining to the coach-house of Lord Milton, as appears from the titles of the property.
Both of them were afterwards converted into stabling for Boyd‘s celebrated White Horse
Inn. This street then formed the approach to the town by one of the great roads from
the south of Scotland ; and here, accordingly, were several of the principal inns. At the
foot of the wynd was Mr Peter Ramsay’s famed establishment, from which he retired with
an ample fortune, and withdrew to his estate of Barnton, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh,
still possessed by his descendants. A large and handsome edifice, with considerable pretensions
to architectural ornament, near the foot of the Pleasance, was the Black Bull Inn,
another of these commodious and fashionable establishments, which the erection of the
North and South Bridges ruined, by diverting the current of visitors to the capital into a
new channel.
Nicoll reports, in 1650, that “ the toun demolished the hail1 houssis in St Marie Wynd,
that the enymie sould haif no schelter thair, bot that thai mycht haif frie pas to thair cannoun,
quhilk thai haid montit upone the Neddir Bow.”’ The earliest date now observable
is that of 1680, cut over the doorway of a house about the middle of the wynd, on the
east side, but one or two other tenements present features of an earlier character. At
the foot of the wpd was situated the Cowgate Port, one of the city gates, constructed
with the extended wall in 1513; and, at a later period, another was erected across the
wynd at its junction with the Pleasance, which was known as St Mary’s or the
Pleasance Port. This was the frequent scene of exposure of the dismembered limbs
of political offenders, as in the case of Garnock and other Covenanters, whose heads
were ordered “to be struck off, and set up upon pricks upon the Pleasance Port of
Edinburgh.”a The old ,Port was demolished on the approach of the rebels in
1715, from the daculty of maintaining it in case of assault; but part of the wall
remained, surmounted by one of the iron spikes, until it was demolished in 1837 to
make way for the new Heriot’s School. This ancient thoroughfare is commended in
Ferguson’s address to Add Reekie, as the unfailing resort of threadbare poets and
the like patrons of the Edinburgh rag-fair. It still continues to be the mart for such
miscellaneous merchandise, flaunting in the motley colours of cast-off finery, and
presided over by
“ St Mary, broker’s guardian ~aunt.”~
Beyond St Mary’s Port, lay the Nunnery dedicated to Sancta Maria de Placentia. It
stood about sixty yards from the south-east angle of the city wall, not far from the foot
of Roxburgh Street ; but of this ancient religious foundation little more is known than the
Chapel, Niddry’s Wynd ; the Virgin Mary’s Chapel, Portsburgh ; the Hospital of Our Lady, Leith Wynd ; the Chapel
and Convent of St Mary de Placentia in the Pleasance; the great Church at Leith, of old styled St Nary’s Chapel; and
the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, the seal of which-now of very rare occurrence-bears the figure of the Virgin and
Child, under a Gothic canopy.
Nicoll’s Diary, p. 24. Keith‘s Hist. Spottiswoode Soc., voL ii. p. 619.
The east side of this narrow wynd has now been entirely removed, and a spacious street substituted, named St
* Fountainhall’s Decisions, vol. i p. 159.
Mary’s Street. ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. “he tenement directly opposite to the site of St Mary’s Chapel, and forming the ...

Book 10  p. 340
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ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES. 413
tradition of its dedication to St Anthony; but the silver stream, celebrated in the plaintive
old song, “ 0 waly, waly up yon bank,” still wells clearly forth at the foot of the rock,
ming the little bason of St Anthony’s Well, and rippling pleasantly through the long
grass into the lower valley.’
The Chapel and Hermitage of St Anthony, though deserted and roofless for centuries,
appear to have remained nearly entire, with the exception of the upper portion of the tower,
till about the middle of the last century. Arnot, writing about the year 1779, remarks:-
“ The cell of the Hermitage yet remains. It is sixteen feet long, twelve broad, and eight
high. The rock rises within two feet of the stone arch, which forms its roof; and at the
foot of the rock flows a pure stream, celebrated in an old Scottish ballad.” All that now
remains of the cell is a small recess, with a stone ledge constructed partly in the natural
rock, which appears to have been the cupboard for storing the simple refreshments of the
hermit of St Anthony. The Chapel is described by the same writer as having been 8
beautiful Gothic building, well suited to the rugged sublimity of the rock. “It was fortythree
feet long, eighteen feet broad, and eighteen high. At its west end there was a tower
of nineteen feet square, and it is supposed, before its fall, about forty feet high. The
doors, windows, and roof, were Gothic; but it has been greatly dilapidated within the
author’s remembrance.”’ The tower is represented in the view of 1544 as finished with
a plain gabled roof; and the building otherwise corresponds to this description. The
wanton destruction of this picturesque and intefesting ruin proceeded within our own
recollection ; but its further decay has at length been retarded for a time by some slight
repairs, which were unfortunately delayed till a mere fragment of the ancient hermitage
remained. The plain corbels and a small fragment of the groined roof still stand ; and
an elegant sculptured stoup for holy water, which formerly projected from the north wall,
was preserved among the collection of antiquities of the late firm of Messrs Eagle and
Henderson. It is described by Maitland as occupying a small arched niche, and
opposite to it was another of larger dimensions, which was strongly fortified for keeping
the Pix with the consecrated bread;’ but no vestige of the latter now remains, or of m y
portion of the south wall in which it stood.
Towards the close of the fourteenth century, St Mary’s Church at Leith appears to
have been erected; but notwithstanding its large size-what remains being only a small
portion of the original edifice-no evidence remains to show by whom it was founded.
The earliest notice we have found of it is in 1490, when a contribution of an annual rent
is made ‘‘by Peter Falconer, in Leith, to a chaplain in St Piter’s Alter, situat in the
Virgin Mary Kirk in Leith.”3 Similar grants are conferred on the chaplains of St
Bartholomew’s and St Barbarie’s Altars, the latest of which is dated 8th July 1499-
the same year in which the Record of the Benefactors of the neighbouring preceptory is
brought to a close.’
Maitland and Chalmers,6 as well as all succeeding writers, agree in assigning the
destruction of the choir and transepts of St Mary’s Church to the English invaders under
1 Arnot, p. 256. Inventar of Pioua Donations, YS. Ad. Lib.
4 One charter of a later date is recorded in the Inventar of Pious Donations, by “ Jo. Logane of Kestalrig, mortifyf
Maitland, p. 497. Cdedonia, vol. ii. p. 786.
Maitland, p. 152.
ing in St Anthooy’a Chapel in Leith, hi tenement, lying on the south side of the Bridge,” dated 10th Feb. 1505, ... ANTIQUITIES. 413 tradition of its dedication to St Anthony; but the silver stream, celebrated in ...

Book 10  p. 453
(Score 0.39)

?NDEX. 467
Macbeth, 4
Macdonald, Andrew, 162
MacEwan, James, 199
Mackenzie, Sir Roderick, 169
Sir James. See Ruyton, Lord
Sir George, 178,210, 216, 261, 324
Hen y, l'h Man of Feeling, 328,332
Wise Ame, 169,247
Mackoull, James, 274
Kaclauchlane, William, 188, 210
Macleod, Mre, 192
Maclure, Mr Andrew, Writing Master, 182
Macmoran, Bailie, 168,453
Micquhen, Michael, 400, 401
M'Gill, Prebendary of Coretorphine, 327
M'Lehose, Mm See Clarinak
M'Lellan of Bombie, 130, 198
M'Naught, Robert, 156
M'Vicar, Rev. Neil, 111
Magdalene, Princess, 41, 42,152
Magistrates' Gowns, 90
Maiden, the, 86,100,175,203
Maison Dieu, 245, 400
Maitlaud, Robert, Dean of Aberdeen, 170
Malcolm II., 2
Iv., 3
Mre, the Black Princess, 292
Malloch, Robert, 250
Mandenton, Patrick, 144
Manzeville, Monsieur, 303
Mar, John, Earl of, 18
Cochrane, Earl of, 19
John, 6th Earl of, 83, 268, 273, 284
John, 7th Earl of, 90, 204
Patrick, Earl of, 5, 7
George, Earl of, 12
Mare, Wooden, 95, 247
Margaret, Queen. See St Muguret
of Denmark, 18
of England, 25, 26, 36, 405
Narch, Earl of, 245
Marischal, William, 4th Earl, 67
Marlin's Wynd, 69, 260
Martin, the Painter, 401
Mary, Queen, 4740,125, 130, 157, 185, 226,245,341,
ia entertained in Cardinal beat on'^ House,
375, 452
Cowgate, 452
of Gueldem. See cfueldera
of Guise. See ChLiie
Mary King's Close, 182,188, 233
Maries, The Queen's, 63, 141
Masterton, Allan, 181
Matildg Queen, 377
Yauchain, Alexander, 172,175
Mauchain's Close, 172
Made, Baron, 259 .
Maxwell, Lord, 176
May Games, 353
Meal Market,' 209
Medins, Sir John de, 411
Megginche, The Church of, 377
Melroee, Abbot of, 261
Melrose, Earl of. See Haaddington, Earl of
Melvil, Sir Jamea, 77, 78
Mr Andrew, 87, 403
Melville, Viscount, 242, 253
Merchant$ Court, 327, 331
Merchanta of Edinburgh, Address to the, 28
Merchiston Caatle, 348
I Mersington, Lord, 208
Middleton, Earl of, 99, 100
Miller, Sir Thomas.
Milne, Robert, 159, 210,260
See CJEenleC, Lord,
John, 159
Square, 242
Milne's Court, 159, 160
Miton, Lord, 297,312
House, 297
Mint, 88,135, 296,314,342
Close, 268, 314
Court, 314
Minto, Lord, 325
Mirror Club, 200
Mitchell, James, a Fanatic Preacher, 101,191
Modens, Duke of, 102
Moffat, Captain, 274
Moffet, Peter, the Reiver, 38
Monboddo, Lord, 288, 334
Monck, General, 96,98,131, 206,345
Monluc, Bishop of Valence, 67, 68
Mons Meg, 104,122,129-131 .
Monteith's Close, 264
Montgomery, Master of, 37
Montrose, Earl of, 174
Alexander, the Poet, 267
Marquis of, 94, 99, 187,215, 295
Aisle, 100, 386
Monuments, Ancient, St Giles's Church, 391
Moodie, Thomas, 105, 428,429
Countess of, 294
Bishop of, 27
House, Canongate, 95,108,294 ,
Xoray, Earl of, 7
More, Jacob, Landscape Painter, 237
Moro~co, Empemr of, 282
Morton, John, 2d Earl of, 26 '
Land, Canongate, 280
James, 4th Earl of, 76, 86, 187
Robert, 12th Earl of, 345
Jamea, 14th Earl of, 232
Countess of, 39
Mansion of the Earls of, 264
Moryson, Fynea, 221
Mound, The Earthen, 161
Moutray of Seafield, a70
Moutrie's Hill, 30, 150, 250, 370
Mowbray, Robert, of Castlewan, 140
Moyee, Dr, 252
Murray, Earl of, 38, 48
Regent, 73, 82, 243. See Stewurt, Lord
Tomb of, St Qies's Church, 389
J a m
Muschett, Nicol, the Murderer, 264
Myllar, Andrew, 30
Mylne, Barbam, a Witch, 305 ... 467 Macbeth, 4 Macdonald, Andrew, 162 MacEwan, James, 199 Mackenzie, Sir Roderick, 169 Sir James. See ...

Book 10  p. 506
(Score 0.39)

maters past there, and how to betray his mistres;
for they could not chuse a more fitte man than
him to do such an act, who, from his very youth
had been renouned for his treacherie, and of whom
his oune father had no good opinion in his very
infance; for, at a certain time, his coming foorth
with him in a garden where his father was, with
some one that had come to visit him, busy in
talk, the nurse setting down the childe on thegreen
grass, and not much mindinge him, th boy seeth a
foude, which he snatched up and had eaten it all till
a little of the legges, which when shee saw, shee
cried out, thinking he should have been poisoned,
and shee taking the legges of the toade that he
had left as yet oneaten, he cried out so loud and
shrill, that his father and the other gentleman
heard the outcries, who went to see what should
burgh,attainted and foundguiltie I?oNE* THE ARMoRTA?, account of the conflagration in
the Scots --Magazine for that
William Douglas of Whitting- . . families have lost their all. An
of heigh treason for the murder
of the king his maister.?
OF CARDINAL BEATOX, FROM HIS HOUSE,
BLACKFRIARS WYND.
(From the Scoffiflr Anfiquarinn Museum.) year, which ?adds, ? many poor
? opponent of Bishop William Abernethy Drummond
of the Scottish Episcopal Church, one of the few
clergymen who paid his respects to Charles
Edward when he kept his court at Holyrood.
By his energy Dr. Hay constructed a chapel in
ChalmeIIs Close, which was destroyed in 1779,
when an attempt to repeal the penal statutes
against Catholics roused a ?NO Popery? cry in
Edinburgh. On the and of February a mob,
including 500 sailors from Leith, burned this
chapel and plundered another, while the bishop
was living in the Blackfriars Wynd, and the house
of every Catholic in Edinburgh was sacked and
destroyed.
Principal Robertson, who was supposed to be
friendly :o Catholics, and defended themin the ensuing
General Assembly, had his house attacked, his
hame, grandson- of Archibald who made a disposition
of the house in Blackfriars Wynd, was a contemporary
of Morton?s, and was closely associated
with him in the murder of Darnley. His name
appears as one of the judges, in the act (? touching
the proceedings of the Gordons and Forbesses,?
and he resigned his seat as senator in 1590.
Lower down, on the east side of the wynd, was
a most picturesque building, part of which was
long used as a Catholic chapel. It was dated
1619, and had carved above its door the motto of
the city, together with the words, In te Domint
Speravi-f?ax intrantibus-SaZvus exeunti3us-
Blissit be God in aZZ his gzyfis.
On the fifth floor of this tenement was a large
room, which during the greater part of the
eighteenth century was used as a place of worship
by the Scottish Catholics, and, until its demolition
lately, there still remained painted on the door the
name of the old bishop-Mr. Nay-for, in those
days he dared designate himself nothing more.
He was ce1,brated in theological literature as the
old respectable citizen, above. 80, was carried out
during the fire.
Nearly opposite to it was another large tenement,?
the upper storey of which was also long
used as a Catholic chapel, rand as such was
dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle of Scotland,
until it was quitted, in 1813, for a more complete
and ornate church, St. Mary?s in Broughton Street.
After it was abandoned, ? the interior of the chapel
retained much of its original state till its demolition.
The framework of the simple altar-piece still
remained, though the rude painting of the patron
saint of Scotland which originally filled it had
disappeared. Humble as must have been the
appearance of this chapel-even when furnished
with every adjunct of Catholic ceremonial for
Christmas or Easter festivals, aided by the imposing
habits of the officiating priests that gathered
round its little altar-yet men of high rank and
ancient lineage were wont to assemble among the
worshippers.?
With oihers, here caine coiistantly tc mass a d
Happily. no lives were lost.? ... past there, and how to betray his mistres; for they could not chuse a more fitte man than him to do such ...

Book 2  p. 261
(Score 0.38)

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