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HISTORICAL INCIDENTS AFTER THE RESTORA TION. I01
was permitted to retain arms in his possession without a warrant from the Privy Council ;
and religious persecution was carried to such a length, that the people were driven to
open rebellion. ‘(The King’s Majesty resolved
to settle the Church government in Scotland,” but the settlement thereof proved a
much more impracticable affair than he anticipated. One of the first steps towards the
accomplishment of this, was the consecration of Bishops, which took place on the 7th
of May 1662, in the Abbey Church of Holyrood. On the following day, the Parliament
assembled, and the Bishops were restored to their ancient privileges as members of
that body. They all assembled in the house of the Archbishop of St Andrews, at the
Nether Bow, from whence they walked in procession, in their Episcopal robes, attended
by the magistrates and nobles, and were received at the Parliament House with every
show of honour.’
The annals of Edinburgh, for some years after this, are chiefly occupied with the
barbarous executions of the Presbyterian Nonconformists ; in 1663, Lord Warriston,
an eminent lawyer and statesman, who had taken refuge in France, was delivered up by
Louis XIV. to Charles 11. He was sent to Edinburgh for trial, and, though tottering on
the brink of the grave, was condemned and executed for his adherence to the Covenant ;
the only mitigation of the usual sentence was, permission to inter his mutilated corpse in
the Grepfriars’ Churchyard. Others of humbler rank were speedily subjected to the
same mockefy of justice, torture being freely applied when other evidence failed, so that
the Grassmarket, which was then the scene of public executions, has acquired an interest
of a peculiar character, from the many heroic victims of intolerance who there laid down
their lives in defence of liberty of conscience.
The’Bishops, as the recognised heads of the ecclesiastical system, in whose name these
tyrannical acts were perpetrated, became thereby the objects of the most violent popular
hate. In 1668, Archbishop Sharp was shot at, as he sat in his coach at the head of Blackfriars’
Wynd. The Bishop of Orkney was stepping in at the moment, and received five
balls in different parts of his body, while the Archbishop, for whom they were intended,
escaped unhurt. The most rigid search was immediately instituted for the assassin. The
gates of the city were closed, and none allowed to pass without leave from a magistrate ;
yet he contrived, by a clever disguise, to elude their vigilance, and effect his escape, Six
years afterwards, the Primate recognised in one Mitchell, a fanatic preacher who eyed
him narrowly, the featura .of the person who fled from his coach after discharging the shot
which wounded the Bishop of Orkney. He was immediately seized, and a loaded pistol
found on him, but, notwithstanding these presumptive proofs of guilt, no other evidence
could be brought against him, and his trial exhibits little regard to any principle of
morality or justice. He was put to the torture, without eliciting any confession from
him ; and at length, in 1676, two years after his apprehension, he was brought from the
Bass, and executed at the Grassmarket, in order to strike terror into the minds of the
Covenanters.*
The year 1678 is memorable in the annals of the good town, as having closed the career
of one of its most noted characters, the celebrated wizard, Najor Weir. The spot on
The consequence of all this is well known.
.
Bicol’s Diary, p. 366. ’ Arnot, p, 148. Wodrew’a Hkt., TOL i. pp. 875, 613. ... INCIDENTS AFTER THE RESTORA TION. I01 was permitted to retain arms in his possession without a warrant ...

Book 10  p. 110
(Score 0.41)

YAMES V. TO ABDICATION OF QUEEN MARY. 67
the tower of the preceptoy, and not that of the present parish church, as the talented
editor of Keith’s History suggests.’ No vestige, indeed, of St Anthony’s steeple has
existed for centuries, and it is probable that it was totally destroyed at this period. The
tower of St Mary’s, which was takendown in 1836, was evidently an erection of a much
later date, and too small to have admitted of a battery being mounted upon it.
On the 22d of April, Monluc, bishop of Valence, arrived as a commissioner from the
Court of France, and attempted to mediate between the Regent aiid the Lords of the
Congregation. He entered into communication with the reformers and their allies, and
spent two days in the English camp ; he thereafter passed to the Queen lkgent in Edinburgh
Castle, but. all attempts at reconciliation proved ineffectual, as the asRailants would
accept of no other terms than the demolition of the fortifications of Leith, and the dismissal
of all the French troops from Scotland.
Meanwhile, the Queen Regent lay in the Castle of Edinburgh, sufferilig alike from
failing health and anxiety of mind. Her life was now drawing to a close, and she repeatedly
sought to bring about a reconciliation between the contending parties, that she might, if
possible, resign the sceptre to her daughter free from the terrible rivalry and contentions
which had embittered the whole period of her Regency ; but all attempts at compromise
proved in vain, and her French advisers prevented her closing with the sole proposal on
which the leaders of the Congregation at length agreed to acknowledge her authoritynamely,
that all foreign troops should immediately quit the realm.
When the Queen Regent found her end approaching, she requested an interview with
the Lords of the Congregation. The Duke of Chatelherault, the Earls of Argyle, Marischal,
and Glencairn, with the Lord James, immediately repaired to the Castle, where they
were received by the dying Queen with such humility and unfeigned kindness as deeply
moved them. She extended her hand to each of them, beseeching their forgiveness with
tears, whereinsoever she had offended them. She expressed deep grief that matters should
ever have come to such extremities, ascribing it to the influence of foreign counsels, which
had compelled her to act contrary to her own inclinations.
At the request of the
barons, she received a visit from John Willock, with whom she conversed for a considerable
time. He besought her to seek mercy alone through the death of Christ, urging her
at the same time to acknowledge the mass as a relic of idolatry. She assured him that
she looked for salvation in no other way than through the death of her Saviour; and
without replying to his further exhortation, she bade him farewell.’
The Queen Regent died on the following day, the 10th of June 1560. The preachers
refused to permit her to be buried according to the rites of the Catholic Church. Her body
was accordingly placed in a lead coffin, and kept in the Castle till the 9th of October,
when it was transported to France, and buried in the Benedictine monastery at Rheims, of
which her own sister was then Abbess.
Both parties were now equally iuclined to a peace ; and accordingly, within a very short
time after the death of the Regent, Cecil, the able minister of Queen Elizabeth, repaired to
Edinburgh, accompanied by Sir Nicholas Wotton. Here they were met by the Bishops of
The scene was so affecting that all present were moved to tears.
Keith, 1844, Spottiswood Soc., voL i p. 271. Wodrow MieL voL i. p. 84. * Calderwood, voL i. p. 589. Keith, voL i. p. 280. ... V. TO ABDICATION OF QUEEN MARY. 67 the tower of the preceptoy, and not that of the present parish church, as ...

Book 10  p. 73
(Score 0.41)

Holyrood.] SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47
between Randolph the famous? Earl of Moray and
Sir William Oliphant, in connection with the forfeited
estate of William of Monte Alto. Another
species of Parliament was held at Holyrood on
the 10th of February, in the year 1333-4, when
Edward 111. received the enforced homage of his
creature Baliol.
XVI. JOHN II., abbot, appears as a witness to
three charters in 1338, granted to William of
Livingston, William of Creighton, and Henry of
Brade (Braid?).
XVII. BARTHOLOMEW, abbot in 1342.
XVIII. THOMAS, abbot, witnessed a charter to
William Douglas of that ilk, Sir James of Sandilands,
and the Lady Elenora Bruce, relict of Alexander
Earl of Carrick, nephew of Robert I., of the
lands of the West Calder. On the 8th of May,
1366, a council was held at Holyrood, at which the
Scottish nobles treated with ridicule and contempt
the pretensions of the kings of England, and sanctioned
an assessment for the ransom of David II.,
taken prisoner at the battle of Durham. That
monarch was buried before the high altar in 1371,
and Edward 111. granted a safe conduct to certain
persons proceeding to Flanders to provide for the
tomb in which he was placed.
XIX. JOHN III., abbot on the 11th of January,
~372. During his term of office, John of Gaunt
Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of Edward III., was
hospitably entertained at Holyrood, when compelled
to take flight from his enemies in England.
XX. DAVID, abbot on the 18th of January, in
the thirteenth year of Robert 11. The abbey was
burned by the armyof Richard 11. whose army
encamped at Restalrig; but it was soon after
repaired. David is mentioned in a charter dated
at Perth, 1384-5.
XXI. JOHN (formerly Dean of Leith) was abbot
on the 8th of May, 1386. His name occurs in
several charters and other documents, and for the
last time in the indenture or lease of the Canonmills
to the city of Edinburgh, 12th September,
1423. In his time Henry IV. spared the monastery
in gratitude for the kindness of the monks to
his exiled father John of Gaunt.
XXII. PATRICK, abbot 5th September, 1435.
In his term of office James II., who had been born
in the abbey, was crowned there in his sixth year,
on the 25th March, 1436-7; and anothet high
ceremony was performed in the same church when
Mary of Gueldres was crowned -as Queen Consort
in July, 1449. In the preceding year, John Bishop
of Galloway elect became an inmate of the abbey,
and was buried in the cloisters.
XXIII. JAMES, abbot 26th April, 14~0.
XXIV. ARCHIBALD CRAWFORD, abbot in 1457.
He was son of Sir William? Crawford of Haining,
and had previously been Prior of Holytood. In
1450 he was one of the commissioners who treated
with the English at Coventry concerning a truce ;
and again in 1474, concerning a marriage between
James Duke of Rothesay and the Princess Cecile,
second daughter of Edward IV. of England. He
was Lord High Treasurer of Scotland in 1480.
He died in 1483. On the abbey church (according
to Crawford) his arms were carved niore than
thirty times. ?He added the buttresses on the
walls of the north and south aisles, and probably
built the rich doorway which opens into the north
aisle.? Many finely executed coats armorial are
found over the niches, among them Abbot Crawford?s
frequently- fesse ermine, with a star of five
points, in chief, surmounted by an abbot?s mitre
resting on a pastoral staff.
XXV. ROBERT BELLENDEN, abbot in 1486,
when commissioner concerning a truce with
England. He was still abbot in 1498, and his
virtues are celebrated by his namesake, the archdean
of Moray, canon of ROSS, and translator of
Boece, who says ?? he left the abbey, and died ane
Chartour-monk.? In 1507 the Papal legate presented
James IV., in the name of Pope Julius II.,
in the church, amid a brilliant crowd of nobles,
with a purple crown adorned by golden lilies, and
a sword of state studded with gems, which is still
preserved in the Castle of Edinburgh. He also
brought a bull, bestowing upon James the title of
Defender of the Faith. Abbot Bellenden, in 1493,
founded a chapel in North Leith, dedicated to St.
Ninian, latterly degraded into a victual granary
The causes moving the abbot to build this chapei,
independent of the spiritual wants of the people,
were manifold, as set forth in the charter of
erection. The bridge connecting North and South
Leith, over which he levied toll, was erected at the
same time.
XXVI. GEORGE CRICHTOUN, abbot in 1515,
and Lord Privy Seal, was promoted to the see of
Uunkeld in 1528. As we have recorded elsewhere,
he was the founder of the Hospital of St. Thomas,
near the Water Gate. An interesting relic of his
abbacy exists at present in England.
About the year 1750, when a grave was being
dug in the chancel of St Stephen?s church, St.
Albans, in Hertfordshire, there was found buried
in the soil an ancient lectern bearing his name, and
which is supposed to have been concealed there at
some time during the Civil Wars. It is of cast
brass, and handsonie in design, consisting of an eagle
with expanded wings, supported by a shaft deco-
The piers still remain. ... SUCCESSION. OF ABBOTS. 47 between Randolph the famous? Earl of Moray and Sir William Oliphant, in ...

Book 3  p. 47
(Score 0.41)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. i l
The foreign correspondence of Sir John was extensive. The fame of his
works, and the intimacies he had formed during his tours, created great demands
on his time. He held no less than twenty-five diplomas from institutions in
France, Flanders, Prussia, Austria, Saxony, Wurtemberg, Germany, Sweden,
Denmark, Russia, Italy, the United States, and the West Indies. With Presidents
Washington, Jefferson, and Adams he had frequent and interesting communications,
as well as with almost every person of note in the old world;
while few foreigners of any distinction visited Scotland without letters of introduction
to him.
“ In person, Sir John Sinclair was tall and spare ; and even in his advanced
years he was remarkable for the elasticity of his gait and erect carriage. From
his characteristic orderly habits, he was exceedingly neat in his dress ; and he
is said to have been, in youth, distinguished for his manly beauty. In the
private walks of life, and in the exercise of the domestic virtues, he was a perfect
model of the Christian gentleman, and with perhaps as few of the faults and
frailties inherent in poor human nature, as almost ever falls to the share of an
individual. He set a noble example to the world of intellectual activity
uniformly directed from almost boyhood to extreme old age.”’
NO. cxcm.
LORD STONEFIELD.
JOHN CAMPBELL, son of Archibald Campbell, Esq., of Stohefield, many years
Sheriff-Depute of the shires of Argyle and Bute, was admitted to the bar in
1748, and elevated to the bench in 1762, when he assumed the title of Lord
Stonefield. In 1787 he succeeded Lord Gardenstone as a Lord of Justiciary.
This latter appointment he resigned in 1702, but he retained his seat on the
bench till his death, which took place upon the 19th of June 1801, having
By his first marriage, Sir John had two daughters-Hannah, authoress of a popular work on
the principles of Christ@ faith, and whose memoirs are well known ; and Janet, married to the
late Sir James Colquhoun of Luss, Baronet. By his second he had a large family-leaving at his
death, the Hon. Lady Sinclair with six sons and five daughters. The eldest, Sir George, was, during
twenty-six years, Member of Parliament for the county of Caithness ; Alexander, formerly of the
H.EI.C.S., resided in Edinburgh ; John, M.A. and F.R.S.E., author of “Dissertations Vindicating
the Church of England ”-an “ Essay on Church Patronage ’I-“ Memoirs of the Life and Works
of Sir John Sinclair,” etc., was one of the ministers of St. Paul’s Chapel, York Place ; Archibald,
a Captain in the Royal Navy ; William, Rector of Pulborough ; and Godfrey, the youngest son, was
for some time engaged in the office of a Writer to the Signet. Of the danghtem, one married George
fourth Earl of Glasgow ; another Stair Stewart, Esq., of Glasserton and Phpgill ; and Misses Diana,
Margaret, and Catherine, remained unmarried. The last-named, Catherine, was the well-known
authoress of “ Scotland and the Scotch,” “ Modern Accomplishments,” and numerous other works.
She died in 1864, and a monument waa erected to her memory in St. Colme Street, Edinburgh.
1 John, afterwards Archdeacon of Middlesex and Vicar of Kensington, NBS the author of “Sketches of Old
Times and Distant Places,” published in 1875, in which year he also died. ... SKETCHES. i l The foreign correspondence of Sir John was extensive. The fame of his works, and the ...

Book 9  p. 94
(Score 0.41)

coate3 Street.] ST, MARY?S CATHEDRAL 211
ward of Princes Street, this estate includes the sites
of Coates Crescent, Melville,Walker, Stafford Streets,
and other thoroughfares, yielding a rental of aboul
&zo,ooo yearly, and representing a capital oi
~400,000, the whole of which, in 1870, was be
queathed by the late Misses Walker of Coates and
Drumsheugh, for the erection of a cathedral for the
Scottish Episcopal Church, dedicated to St. Maq
facing the west end of Melville Street.
Miss Mary Walker-the last of an old Episcopalian
family-died in 1871, her sister Barbara having
pre-deceased her. The foundation-stone was laid
with impressive ceremony, by the Duke of Buccleuchj
assisted by some zoo clergy and laymen 01
the Episcopal communion on the zIst of May, 1874;
and when fully completed it will be the largest and
most beautiful church that has been erected in
Scotland, or perhaps in Great Britain since the
Reformation. The total cost, when finished, will
be about .&132,567.
The architect, Sir Gilbert Scott, founded his
design on the early Pointed style of architecture.
The axis of this cathedral coincides with the
centre of Melville Street, its site being immediately
to the south of Coates House, the sole example of
an old Scottish mansion surviving in the New Town.
The form adopted is that of a cruciform church, the
general effect being enhanced by the introduction
to the central tower of two minor, though still lofty,
towers at the western end. The plan embraces a
choir with north and south aisles ; at the intersection
of the transepts rises the central or rood tower,?z75
feet inheight; the total length of the edifice externally
is 278 feet 2 inches, and the breath 98 feet 6 inches.
The choir is 60 feet 9 inches long and 29 broad,
with aisles 16 feet wide, divided into two great and
four minar bays by beautifully clustered columps.
From the floor to the key-stones of the vaulting,
which is all of stone, the height is 58 feet. The
transepts, which project by one ?bay beyond the
nave and choir, are .35 feet 4 inches long, by 30
feet g inches broad, with aisles above 13 feet wide.
This unusual proportion of breadth -was given to
the transepts to provide ample accommodation for
congregational purposes. To the north of the north
chancel aisle is the library, an apartment measuring
30 feet by I 9 feet. The main entrance of the church
is from Palmerston Place, opposite what are grotesquely
named Grosvenor Gardens. This elevation
is the most imposing modern Gothic fapde in Scotland,
severe in its purity, and rich in elaboration.
The most important features here are the portal and
great west window. The shafts and flanking arches
of the former are of red granite, from Shap in Westmoreland,
harmonising well with the fine nunmore
and Polmaise freestone of which the edifice i s built.
In the vesica of the centre pediment is a seated
figure of the Saviour, supporting with the left hand
a lamb, and with the outstretched right holding a
key. Around is the legend :-
SALVABITUR?
?EGO SUM OSTIUM; PER ME SI QUIS INTROIERIT
In the spandrils are figures of St. Peter and
John the Baptist. Below this grouping are ranged
along the door lintel angels bearing a scroll inscribed-
?TU ES CHRISTUS FILIUS DEI.?
The side elevations of the nave present the
usual features of the early Pointed style, the walls
of the aisle being substantially buttressed, dividing
the length into five bays, in each of which is a
double window. Above the clerestory runs a bold
cotnice, and from the wall head there springs a high
pitched roof. In the gable of the south transept is
anotherportal, the mouldings of which are exquisitely
carved. The window consists of three lancets separated
by massively clustered buttress shafts. Above
it is a rose window 24 feet in diameter, filled
in with geometrical tracery. Above it are five
pointed niches, containing statues of St. Paul and
St. Luke, Titus, Silas, and Timotheus.
the gable of the north transept has some features
peculiarly its own. The wheel window, 24 feet
in diameter, is of a later period than that in the
south gable, Over it is a statue of David. As
usual in cathedrals, the choir has been treated
with greater elaboration of design and detail than
the nave, especially in the triforium and clerestory.
The gable fronting Melville Street is nearly
occupied by a triple lancet window, the apex of
the arches being 54 feet from the ground. Above
is an arcade, the arches of which are filled by
statues of the mother of our Lord and the four
Evangelists. In the vesica is a figure of the
Saviour surrounded by angels in the act of adoration.
The four shafted and clustered pillars of the roodtower,
though framed to support a superincumbent
mass of no less than 6,000 tons, are finely proportioned
and even light in appearance. The tower
rises square from the roof in beautiful proportions,
the transition to the octagonal form taking place
at the height of 120 feet from the foundation.
Viewed from any point, the nave, with its longdrawn
aisles and interlacing arches, has a peculiarly
p n d and impressive effect. Designed in the
style of the twelfth century, the font stands in the
baptistery under the south-west tower. It is
massive, of yellowish alabaster streaked with red
Though treated in a somewhat similar manner, , ... Street.] ST, MARY?S CATHEDRAL 211 ward of Princes Street, this estate includes the sites of Coates ...

Book 4  p. 211
(Score 0.41)

NOTES TO VOL. I.
Page 66, Dr. CARLPLE.
For the actual facts regarding Carlyle’s friendship with Home, wide Dr. Carlyle’s
Autobiography. He attended two rehearsals along with the author, Lord Elibank, Dr.
Ferguson, and David Hume, at the old Canongate theatre, then under the management
of Captain Digges, a well-born profligate, who had been dismissed the army, it was said,
as a poltroon. The
friends of Home were accustomed to meet at a tavern within the Abbey Sanctuary, and
out of this originated the Griskin Club, one of the old convivial clubs of Edinburgh.
He performed Young Douglas, and Mrs. Ward, Lady Randolph.
Page 72, CROCHALLACLNU B.
For an account of the Club, vide Ker’s Life of Xmellie, by whom Burns was introduced
to the Club. See the poet’s impromptu on Smellie ; and also his addenda to the
old song of “ Rattlin’ roarin’ Willie,” in both of which the Crochallan Club is referred to,
Page 11 7, Mr. WOODS.
Woods the actor was a special friend of the poet Fergusson. Vide ‘‘ My Last Will : ”
“ To thee, whose genius can provoke
Thy pmsions to the bowl or sock ;
For love to thee, Woods, and the Nine,
%e my immortal Shakespeare thine,” etc.
An Address, in Verse, “ To Mr. R. Ferpsson, on his recovery from severe depression
of spirits,” by Mr. Woods, appeared originally in the Culedoninn Mercury, July 9, 1774,
and was appended to the first edition of Pequsson’s Poems, 1807.
Page 12 3, Dr. BLAIK
“ The great Dr. Blair used to walk in a sort of state, with gown and wig, from his
house in Argyle Square, down the Horse Wynd, up the Old Fishmzrket Close, and so
to the High Church, every Sunday foreuoon when he went to preach. His style of
walking was very pompous, though perhaps not affected.”- Fide Chambers’s Traditions.
Page 127, ERSKINEAN D THE PHYSICIANHSA’ LL.
It is almost necessary to note here that the Physicians’ Hall, a somewhat tasteful
building, with a portico of Corinthian columns, was one of the prized architectural
features of the New Town in its early days. It was erected in 1775 ; and as it stood
opposite St. Andrew’s Church, the two porticoes would have harmonised well in a
general view of the street, had not the Physicians’ Hall been thrown back behind the
general line of the street. The site is now occupied by the much more imposing
building of the Commercial Bank.
Page 160, Rev. JOHNM ‘LuRE.
Dr. Robert Chambers describes this same character in his Traditions of Edinburgh,
hut he gives him the name of Andrew M‘Lnre. He lived “ in the second flat of a house
at the head of Bell’s Wynd, fronting the southern wall of the Old Tolbooth, and next
door to the Baijen Hole.” This, Dr. Chambers states, was a celebrated baker’s shop,
named in Peter Williamson’s Directory for 1784 as Bugon Hole ; but he says “ the
origin of the word defies all research.” The
Bejauni were the freshmen, or students of the first year in the old universities. In
Aberdeen the freshman is still called a Bejeant, as in Paris he was a Bbjaune, i.e. a
ninny, in the fourteenth century. No doubt the Eaijen Hole was a favourite resort of
the younger students who had not yet lost a schoolboy’s love for gib, candy, etc. Old
High School boys will remember Brown’s Baijen Hole, in the old High School Wynd,
the reputation of which survived till the desertion of the Old High School Yards for the
Calton HilL
The word, however, is very significant. ... TO VOL. I. Page 66, Dr. CARLPLE. For the actual facts regarding Carlyle’s friendship with Home, wide Dr. ...

Book 8  p. 601
(Score 0.41)

Greyfriars Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371
guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved their
escape, but many died. All this, at the hands of their
own countrymen, these poor people had to endurethe
stubborn Scottish peasant, with his pride and
rectitude of heart, his tender, it might be weak and
ailing wife, with his infants and his aged parents.
to administer to the wants of the prisoners there
was one lady who was wont to come attended by
a young daughter possessed of considerable personal
attractions. Periodically they came to the iron gate
with food and raiment, collected among the charitable,
and between the young lady and one of the
A ROYAL EDINBURGH VOLUNTEER. (p?W7?J a Print Of tk Psriod.)
Some who signed a bond never to take up arms
against the Government were released ; others
found rest amid the graves on which they lay;
the remainder, to the number of two hundred and
fifty-seven, were sent to be sold as slaves in Barbadoes,
Jamaica, and New Jersey, but many were
drowned at sea
? From the gloom of this sad story there is shed
one ray of romance,? says Chambers, in his ?? Traditions.?
Among the sympathising people who dared
B6
younger captives an attachment sprang up.
Doubtless she loved him for the dangers he had
dared, and he loved her because she pitied them.
In happier days, long after, when their constancy
had been well tried by an exile which he suffered
in the plantations, this pair were married and settled
in Edinburgh, where they had sons and daughters.
A respectable elderly citizen,? adds Chambers,
?? tells me he is descended from them?
After the Duke of Albany and York came, as ... Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371 guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved ...

Book 4  p. 377
(Score 0.41)

78 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
buildings often before used as a royal residence, and in one of the apartments of which
the Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, expired only six years previous,
The greatest joy and triumph prevailed in Edinburgh on the announcement of the
birth of an heir to the throne. A public thanksgiving was offered up on the following day
in St Giles’s Church; aud Sir James Melvil posted with the news to the English Court,
with such speed, that he reached London on the fourth day thereafter, and spoiled her
Majesty’s mirth for one night, at least, with the “happy news.’’’
The birth of a son to Darnley produced little change on his licentious course of life.
By his folly he had already alienated from him the intersets and affections of every party;
and the conspirators, who had joined with him in ‘the murder of Rizzio, had already
resolved on his destruction, when he was seized with the small-pox at Glasgow. From
this he was removed to Edinburgh, and lodged in the mansion of the Provost or chief
prebendary of the Collegiate Church of St Mary-in-the-Fields, as a place of good air.
This house stood nearly on the site of the present north-west corner of Drummond Street,
as is ascertained from Gordon’s map of the city in 1647, where the ruins are indicated as
they existed at that period : it is said to have been selected by Sir James Balfour, brother
of the Provost, and “ the most corrupt man of his age,” a as well fitted, from its lonely
situation, for the intended murder.
She spent the evening of the 9th of
February 1567 with him, and only left at eleven o’clock, along with several nobles who
had accompanied her there, to be present at an entertainment at Holyrood House.
The Earl of Bothwell, whose lawless ambition mainly instigated the assassination, had
‘obtained a situation for one of his mehals in the Queen’s service, and by this means he
was able to obtain the keys of the Provost of St Mary’s house, and cause counterfeit
impressions to be taken.s He had been in company with the Queen on the loth, at a
banquet given to her by the Bishop of Argyle, and learning that she must return to Holyrood
that night, he immediately arranged to complete his murderous scheme.
’ Bothwell left the lodgings of the Laird of Ormiston in company with several of his own
servants, who were his sole accomplices, shortly after nine o’clock at night. They passed
down the Blackfriars’ Wynd together, entering the gardens of the Dominican monastery by
a gate in the enclosing wall opposite the foot of the Wynd; and by a road nearly on the
site of what now forms the High School Wynd, they reached the postern in the town wall
which gave admission to the lodging of Darnley. Bothwell joined the Queen, who was
then visiting her husband, while his accomplices were busy arranging the gunpowder in
the room below ; and, after escorting her home to the Palace, he returned to complete his
purpose. It may be further mentioned, as an evidence of the simple manners of the period,
that when Bothwell’s servants returned to his residence, near the Palace, after depositing
the powder in Darnley’P lodging, they saw the Queen,-as one of them afterwards Ptated
in evidence,-on her way back to Holyrood “gangand before them with licht torches as
they came up the Black Frier Wynd.”‘ So that it would appear she walked quietly
home, with her few attendants, through these closes and down the Canongate, at that late
hour, without exciting among the citizens any notice of the presence of royalty.
Here the Queen frequently visited Darnley.
1 Keith, vol. ii. p. 434. ’
a Rubertson’s Hiat., vol. ii. p. 354.
a Laing, vol. ii. p. 296.
4 Pitcairn’s Criminal Triala, vol. i. part ii, p. 493. ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. buildings often before used as a royal residence, and in one of the apartments of ...

Book 10  p. 85
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BATTLE OF FLODDEN TO DEATH OF YAMES V. 45
ordained that the Baillies of the Cannongate garre sik like be done upon the said east
side.”
Although all the Parliaments during this reign assembled at Edinburgh, the Palace
of Holyrood was only the occasional residence of James V. Yet he seems to have
diligently continued the works begun here by his father, and tradition still assigns to
him, with every appearance of truth, the erection of the north-west towers of the Palace,
the only portion of the original building that has survived the general conflagration by
the English in the following reign. On the bottom of the recessed pannel of the north
tower, could be traced, about thirty years since, in raised Roman letters, gilt, the words,
. The last occurrence of local interest in the lifetime of this Monarch, is thus recorded
in the Diurnal of Occurrents :-“Upon the last day of Februar, their was ane certaine
of persones accusit for heresie in abbay kirk of Halyrudhous ; and thair was condempnit
twa blackfreris, ane Channon of Sanct Androis, the vicar of Dollour ; ane preist, and ane
lawit man that duelt in Stirling, were brynt the same day on the Castell Hill of
Edinburgh.”’ Thus briefly is recorded an occurrence, which yet is the pregnant forerunner
of events that crowd the succeeding pages of Scottish history, until the Stuart
race forfeited the throne.
Our subject does not require us to deal further with the character of James V., or the
general events of his reign. He died at Falkland on the 14th of December 1542, and
his body was thereafter conveyed to Edinburgh, where his faithful servitor and friend,
Sir David Lindsay, must have directed the mournful ceremony that laid his royal master
by the side of Queen Bhgdalene, his first young bride, in Holyrood Church. The
sumptuous display, that can neither lighten grief nor ward off death, attended, as usual,
on the last rites of the poet King. From the household books of the Cardinal Beaton,
we learn that he spent “for a manual at the King’s funeral, 10s.; for a mitre of white
damask, 42s.; for four mourning garments, S3, 18s. lOd.,” wherewith to officiate in
the services of the church, that committed the remains of his royal master to their final
resting-place.
Of the general manners of the age, considerable insight may be obtained from the acts
of the Parliaments held during this reign, regulating inn-keepers and travellers, bailies,
craftsmen, judges, and beggars, all of whom are severally directed in their callings, with
careful minuteness.
But the satires of Sir David Lindsay are still more pointed and curious in their
allusions to this subject. His Supplication to tAe Kingis grace in Contemptioun of Syde
Tail&, attacks a fashion that had already excited the satiric ire of Dunbar, as well as
the graver but less effectual censures of the Parliament ; and already, in thia early poem,
he begins to touch with sly humour on the excesses of the clergy, even while dealing with
this humble theme. Though bishops, he says,-with seeming commendation,-for the
dignity of their ofiice, have men to bear up their tails, yet that is no reason
-LACOBVS REX SCOTORVM.
That every lady of the land
Suld have hir hill 80 q d e trailland
1 Scota Acta, 12mo. vol. i. p. 248, ’ Diurnal of Occurrenb, p. 23. ... OF FLODDEN TO DEATH OF YAMES V. 45 ordained that the Baillies of the Cannongate garre sik like be done upon ...

Book 10  p. 49
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YAMES YI. TO RESTORATION OF CHARLES 11. 89
very willing to make the most of such an occasion as this, and remained for a time inexorable.
The magistrates were required to surrender themselves prisoners at Perth, and one
of them having failed to appear, the town was denounced, the inhabitants declared rebels,
and the city revenues sequestrated to the King’s use.
The magistrates at length went in a body to the Palace of Holyrood House, and, kneeling
before him, made offer of such concessions as the indignant monarch was pleased to
accept. One of the conditions bound them to deliver up, for the King’s sole me, the
houses in their kirkyard, occupied by the town ministers, which was accordingly done, and
on the site of them the Parliament House, which still stands (though recently entirely
remodelled externally), was afterwards built. They also agreed to pay to him the sum of
twenty thousand merks, and 80 at length all difficulties were happily adjusted between
them, and the city restored to its ancient privileges.
After the execution of the famous Earl of Gowry and his brother at Perth, their dead
bodies were brought to Edinburgh and exposed at the Market Cross, hung in chains. From
that time, James enjoyed some years of tranquillity, living at Holyrood and elsewhere in
such homely state as his revenues would permit; and when the extravagance of his
Queen,-who was a devoted patron of the royal goldsmith, George Heriot,-or his
own narrow means, rendered his housekeeping somewhat stinted, he was accustomed
to pay a condescending visit to some of the wealtllier citizens in the High Street of
Edinburgh.
An interesting old building, called Lockhart’s Court, Niddry’a Wpd, which was
demolished in constructing the southern approach to the town, was especially famous as
the scene of such civic entertainment of royalty. We learn, from Moyses’s 34emoirs, of
James’s residence there in 1591, along with his Queen, shortly after their arrival from
Denmark, and their hospitable reception by Nicol Edward, a wealthy citizen, who was
then Provost of Edinburgh.’
His visits, also, to George Heriot were of frequent occurrence, and, as tradition reports,
he made no objection to occasionally discussing a bottle of wine in the goldsmith’s little
booth, at the west end of St Giles’s Church, which was only about seven feet square.*
The death of Queen Elizabeth, in 1603, produced a lively excitement in the minds both
of King and people. The anticipation of this event for years had gradually prepared, and
in some degree reconciled, the latter to the idea of their King going to occupy the throne of ‘‘ their auld enemies of England,” but its injurious influence on the capital could not be
mistaken. On the 31st of March the news was proclaimed at the City Cross by the secretary
Elphinstone, and Sir David Lindsay, younger, the Lyon King.
King James, before his departure, attended public service in St Giles’s Church, where he
had often before claimed the right of challenging the dicta of the preachers from the royal
gallery. An immense crowd assembled on the occasion, and listened with deep interest to
a discourse expressly addressed to his Majesty upon the important change. The King took
it in good part, and, on the preacher concluding, he delivered a farewell address to the
people. Many were greatly affecied at the prospect of their King’s departure, which was
generally regarded as anything rather than a national benefit. The farewell was couched
in the warmest language of friendship. He promised them that he would defend their
’
Mopes’s Memoirs, p. 182. * Chambers’s Traditions, VOL ii. p. 210.
M ... YI. TO RESTORATION OF CHARLES 11. 89 very willing to make the most of such an occasion as this, and remained ...

Book 10  p. 97
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The Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87
the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+
wards the north, to the head of the bank, and so
going down to the said North Loch,? &c.
This right of proprietary seems clear enough,
yet Lord Neaves decided in favour of the Crown,
and found that the ground adjacent to the
Castle of Edinburgh, including the Esplanade and
the north and south banks or braes,? belonged,
(?jure coronte, to Her Majesty as part and pertinent
of the said Castle.?
CHAPTER IX.
THE CASTLE HILL (cmclded).
Dr. Guthrie?s Original Ragged School-Old Houses in the Streetof the Castle Hill-Duke of Gordon?s House, Blair?s Close-Webster?s
CloscDr. Alex. Webster-Boswell?s Court-Hyndford House-Assembly Hall-Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kcnnedy,
the Earl of Cassillis, the Laird of Cockpen--Lord Semple?s House-Lord Semple-Palace of Mary of Gub-Its Fate.
ON the north side of this thoroughfare-which,
within 150 years ago, was one of the most
aristocratic quarters of the old city-two great
breaches have been made: one when the Free
Church College was built in 1846, and the other, a
little later, when Short?s Observatory was built in
Ramsay Lane, together with the Original Ragged
School, which owes its existence to the philanthropic
efforts of the late Dr. Guthrie, who, with
Drs. Chalmers, Cunningham, and Candlish, took
so leading a part in the pon-intrusion controversy,
which ended in the disruption in 1843 and the
institution of the Free Church of Scotland. In 1847
Guthrie?s fervent and heart-stirring appeals on behalf
of the homeless and destitute children, the little
street Arabs of the Scottish capital, led to the
establishment of the Edinburgh Original Ragged
Industrial School, which has been productive of
incalculable benefit to the children of the poorer
classes of the city, by affording them the blessing of
a good common and Christian education, by training
them in habits of industry, enabling them to
earn an honest livelihood, and fitting them for
the duties of life,
All children are excluded who attend regular
day-schools, whose parents have a regular income,
or who receive support or education from the parochial
board; and the Association consists of all subscribers
of 10s. and upwards per annum, or donors
of A5 and upwards; and the general plan upon
which this ragged school and its branch establishment
at Leith Walk, are conducted is as follows,
viz.:-?To give children an adequate allowance of
food for their daily support; to instruct them in
reading, writing, and arithmetic ; to train them in
habits of industry, by instructing and employing
them in such sorts of work as are suited to their
years; to teach them the truths of the Gospel,
making the Holy Scriptures the groundwork of
instruction. On Sabbath the children shall receive
food as on other days, and such religious instruction
as shall be arranged by the acting committee,?
which consists of not less than twelve members.
To this most excellent institution no children
are admissible who are above fourteen or under five
years of age, and they must either be natives of
Edinburgh or resident there at least twelve months
prior to application for admission, though, in special
cases, it may be limited to six. None are admitted
or retained who labour under infectious disease, or
whose mental or bodily constitution renders them
incapable of profiting by the institution. All must ,
attend church on Sunday, and no formula of
doctrine is taught to which their parents may
object ; and children are excused from attendance
at school or worship on Sunday whose parents
object to their attendance, but who undertake that
the children are otherwise religiously instructed in
the tenets of the communion to which they belong,
provided they are in a condition to be entrusted
with the care of their children.
Such were the broad, generous, and liberal views
of Dr. Guthne, and most ably have they been
carried out.
According to the Report for 187g-which may
be taken as fairly typical of the work done in this
eminently useful institution-there was an average
attendance. in the Ramsay Lane Schools of 216
boys and 89 girls. The Industrial Department
comprises carpentry, box-making, shoemaking, and
tailoring, and the net, profits made by the boys
in these branches amounted to &;I& 14s. 5+d.
Besides this the boys do all the washing, help the
cook, make their beds, and wash the rooms they
occupy twice a week. The washing done by boys
was estimated at A130, and the girls, equally
industrious, did work to the value (including the
washing) of A109 7s.
Full of years and honour, Dr. Thomas Guthne
died 24th February, 1873.
Memories of these old houses that have passed
away, yet remain, while on the opposite side of the ... Castle Hill.] THE RAGGED SCHOOL. 87 the said burgh situated under the Castle Hill t+ wards the north, to the ...

Book 1  p. 87
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The water of Leith.] GEORGE RANKINE LUKE 81
memoir of him was prefixed by Dr. Leonhard
Schmitz to his last work, which was published six
years after his death, which occurred in his seventyfourth
year, at No. 21, St. Bernard?s Crescent, on
the 9th of July, 1859.
Academy, everywhere bearing off more prizes than
any of his contemporaries. Leaving the last in
1853, he w?ent to the University of Glasgow, and
at the close of the first session, when in his. seventeenth
year, he carried off the two gold medals
ST. STEPHEN?S CHURCH.
Our list of Stockbridge notabilities would be
incomplete were we to omit the name of one
whose fame, had he been spared, might have
been very glorious : young George Rankine Luke,
a Snell Exhibitioner at Baliol College, and one of
the most brilliant students at Oxford. Born in
Brunswick Street, in March, 1836, the son of Mr.
Tames Luke, a master baker, he passed speedily
through the ranks of the Hamilton Place Academy,
the Circus Place School, and the Edinburgh
107
for the senior Latin and Greek, three prizes for
Greek and Latin composition, the prize for the
Latin Blackstone, and the Muirhead prize. The
close of the second year saw him win the medal
for the Greek Blackstone, the highest classical
honour the University offers, Professor Lushington?s
final Greek prize, another for Logic, and for
Composition four others.
In 1855, as a Snell Exhibitioner at Oxford, he
, rapidly gained the Gaisford prizes for Greek prose ... water of Leith.] GEORGE RANKINE LUKE 81 memoir of him was prefixed by Dr. Leonhard Schmitz to his last work, ...

Book 5  p. 81
(Score 0.41)

20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate.
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~
house of the burgh. It was established by subscription,
and opened for the reception of the poor in
1761, the expense being defrayed by collections at
the church doors and voluntary contributions,
without any assessment whatever ; and in those days
the managers were chosen annually from the public
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~ ~
at the foot of Monroe?s Close, and bore, till within
the last few years, the appearance of those partly
quadrangular manor-houses so common in Scotland
during the seventeenth century. It became
greatly altered after being brought into juxtaposition
with the prosaic details of the Panmure Iron
TOLBOOTH WND.
societies of the Canongate. The city plan of 1647
shows but seven houses within the gate, on the
west side of the Wynd, and open gardens on the
other, eastward nearly to the Water Gate.
Panmure Close, the third alley to the eastwxd-
I one with a good entrance, and generally more
I pleasant than most of those narrow old streets-is
so named from its having been the access to Panmure
House, an ancient mansion, which still remains ;
I
Foundry, but it formed the town residence of the
Earls of Panmure, the fourth of whom, James, who
distinguished himself as a volunteer at the siege of
Luxemburg, and was Privy Councillor to James
VII., a bitter opponent of the Union, lost his title
and estates aRer the battle of Sheriffmuir, and died,
an exile, in Paris. His nephew, William Maule,
who served in the Scots Guards at Dettingen and
Fontenoy, obtained an Irish peerage in 1743 as Earl ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate. ~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~ house of the burgh. It was established by ...

Book 3  p. 20
(Score 0.41)

20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate.
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~
house of the burgh. It was established by subscription,
and opened for the reception of the poor in
1761, the expense being defrayed by collections at
the church doors and voluntary contributions,
without any assessment whatever ; and in those days
the managers were chosen annually from the public
~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~ ~
at the foot of Monroe?s Close, and bore, till within
the last few years, the appearance of those partly
quadrangular manor-houses so common in Scotland
during the seventeenth century. It became
greatly altered after being brought into juxtaposition
with the prosaic details of the Panmure Iron
TOLBOOTH WND.
societies of the Canongate. The city plan of 1647
shows but seven houses within the gate, on the
west side of the Wynd, and open gardens on the
other, eastward nearly to the Water Gate.
Panmure Close, the third alley to the eastwxd-
I one with a good entrance, and generally more
I pleasant than most of those narrow old streets-is
so named from its having been the access to Panmure
House, an ancient mansion, which still remains ;
I
Foundry, but it formed the town residence of the
Earls of Panmure, the fourth of whom, James, who
distinguished himself as a volunteer at the siege of
Luxemburg, and was Privy Councillor to James
VII., a bitter opponent of the Union, lost his title
and estates aRer the battle of Sheriffmuir, and died,
an exile, in Paris. His nephew, William Maule,
who served in the Scots Guards at Dettingen and
Fontenoy, obtained an Irish peerage in 1743 as Earl ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canangate. ~ ~~ ~ ~~ ~~~ ~ house of the burgh. It was established by ...

Book 3  p. 19
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EARLIEST TRADITIONS. 5
having been concluded between Ermengarde de Beaumont, cousin to King Henry, Edinburgh
Castle was gallantly restored as a dowry to the Queen, after having been held by
an English garrison for nearly twelve years.
In the year 1215, Alexander II., the son and successor of William, convened his first
Parliament at Edinburgh ; and during the same reign, still further importance was given
to the rising city, by a Provincial Synod being held in it by Cardinal l’Aleran, legate from
Pope Gregory IX. The revenues of Alexander could not rival the costly foundations of
his great-grandfather, David I. ; but he founded eight monasteries of the Mendicant Order,
in different parts of Scotland; one of which, the monastery of Blackfriars, stood nearly on
the same spot as the Royal Infirmary now occupies ; near which was the Collegiate Church
of St Mary-in-the-Field, better known as the Kirk-0’-Field, occupying the site of the
College-all vestiges of which have long since disappeared. But of these we shall treat
more at large in their proper place. His son and successor, Alexander III,, having been
betrothed to Margaret, daughter of Henry 111. of England, nine years before, their nuptials
were celebrated at York, in the year 1242, Arnot tells us “ the young Queen had Edinburgh
Castle appointed for her residence ; ” but it would seem to have been more in the character
of a stronghold than a palace ; for, whereas the sumptuousness of her namesake, Queen of
Malcolm Canmore, the future St Margaret of Scotland, while residing there, excited discontent
in the minds of her rude subjects, she describes it as “ a sad and solitary place,
without verdure, and by reason of its vicinity to the sea, unwholesome ; that she was not
permitted to make excursions through the kingdom, nor to chose her female attendanta ;
and lastly, that she was excluded from all conjugal intercourse with her husband, who by
this time had completed his fourteenth year.” “ Redress of her last grievance,” Dalrymple
adds, ‘‘ was instantly procured, redress of her other grievances was promised.”
Shortly after, the Castle was surprisedbp Alan Dureward, Patrick Earl of March, and other
leaders, while their rivals were engaged in preparation for holding a Parliament at Stirling ;
and the royal pair being liberated from their durance, we shortly afterwards find them holding
an interview with Henry, at Werk Castle, Northumberland. During the remainder of
the long and prosperous reign of Alexander III., the Castle of Edinburgh continued to be
the chief place of the royal residence, as well as for holding his courts for the transaction
of judicial affairs ; it was also during his reign the safe depository of the principal records,
and of the regalia of the kingdom.’
From this time onward, through the disastrous wars that ultimately settled the Bruce
on the throne, and established the independence of Scotland, Edinburgh experienced
its full share of the national sderings and temporary humiliation; in June 1291, the
town and Castle were surrendered into the hands of Edward I. Holinshed relatea that
he came to Edinburgh, where “ he planted his siege about the Castell, and raised engines
which cast stones against and over the walls, sore beating and bruising the buildings within
; so that it surrendered by force of siege to the King of England’s use, on the 15 daie
after he had first laid his siege about it.”3 He was here also again on 8th July 1292, and
again on the 29th of the same month; and here, in May 1296, he received within the
church in the Castle, the unwilling submission of many magnates of the kingdom, acknowledging
him as Lord Paramount; and on the 28th of August following, William de
Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 586. = Ibid., p. 687. ’ Chronicles, 1586, vol. iii. p. 300. ... TRADITIONS. 5 having been concluded between Ermengarde de Beaumont, cousin to King Henry, ...

Book 10  p. 6
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44 EDINBURGH PAST AND PRESENT.
Well might Christopher thus describe Greyfriars in his Nocfes:-‘An impre?
sive place,-huge auld red gloomy church, a countless multitude 0’ grass graves,
a’ touchin’ ane anither ; a’ round the kirkyard wa’s marble and freestane monuments
without end, and 0’ a’ shapes and sizes and ages,-some quaint, some
queer, some simple, some ornate-for genius likes to work upon grief; and
here tombs are like towers and temples, partakin’ not 0’ the noise 0’ die city,
but standing aloof frae the stir of life, aneath the sombre shadow of the
Castle cliff, that heaves its battlements furth into the sky.’
OLD WELI. WEST mUT.
The best approach to the Grassmarket was down the ancient suburb of
Portsburgh. There too you get one of the grandest views of the Castle,
frowning overhead, as represented in the Engraving, like the brow of some
colossal Gorgon. The Grassmarket itself owes its chief charm to the past, to the
memories of the Covenanters who ‘glorified God’ there (at the east end of the
square, opposite No. 100), and of Captain Porteous, who was hung on a dyester’s
pole on the south side, over the entrance to Hunter’s Close. We remember
too with special interest being present here in the close of the year 1834 at a
great meeting against the Tory Ministry, and of hearing eloquent speeches
from the lips of James Aytoun, James Browne, Advocate, and above all of ... EDINBURGH PAST AND PRESENT. Well might Christopher thus describe Greyfriars in his Nocfes:-‘An impre? sive ...

Book 11  p. 68
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THE CANONGATE TOLBOOTH.
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. -
CHAPTER I.
THE CANONGATE.
Its Origin-Songs concerning it-Records-Market Cross-St. Job?s and the Girth Crosses-Early Hktory-The Town of H~bcrgarc-
Canongate Paved-The Governing Body-Fbising the DeviL-Purchase of the Earl of Roxburgh?s ?? Superiority ?-The Foreign Settlement
-Gorge Heriot the Elder-Huntly?s House-Sir Walter Scott?s Story of a Fire-The Morocco Land-Houses of Oliphant of Nmland,
Ltrd David Hay, and Earl of Angus-Jack?s Land-Shoemakers? Lands-Marquiz of Huntly?s How-Nisbet of Dirleton?s Mansion-
Golfer?s Land-John and Nicol Patemn-The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey-Lucky Spence.
THE Canongate-of old the Court-end of Edinburgh-
takes its name from the Augustine monks
of Holyrood, who were permitted to build it by
the charter of David I. in I I 28, and to rule it as a
burgh of regality. ?The canons,? says Chalmers,
.<?? were empowered to settle here a village, and from
them the street of this settlement was called the
Canongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street,
40
according to?the practice of the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries in Scotland and England. The
irnmunities which the canons and their villagers enjoyed
from David?s grant, soon raised up a town,
which extended from the Abbey to the Nether
Port of Edinburgh, and the townsmen performed
their usual devotions in the church of the Abbey
till the Reformation,? after which it continued to ... CANONGATE TOLBOOTH. OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. - CHAPTER I. THE CANONGATE. Its Origin-Songs concerning ...

Book 3  p. 1
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JAMES VI. TO RESTORATION OF CHARLES 11. 91
In the following year, the Common Council purchased the elevated ground lying to the
south of the city, denominated the High Riggs, on part of which Heriot’s Hospital was
afterwards built, and the latest extension of the city wall then took place for the purpose
of enclosing it. A portion of this wall still forms the western boundary of the Hospital
grounds, terminating at the head of the Vennel, in the only remaining tower of the ancient
city wall. The close of the succeeding year was signalised by the visit of Ben Jonson, on
his way to Hawthornden, the seat of the poet Drummond, where the memory of his
residence is still preserved.
The accession of Charles I. was marked by demands for heavy contributions, for the
purpose of fitting out ships, and erecting forts for securing the coasts of the kingdom.
The Common Council of Edinburgh entered so zealously into this measure, that the King
addressed to them a special letter of thanks ; and as a further proof of his gratitude, he
presented the Provost with a gown, to be worn according to King James’s appointment,
and a sword to be borne before him on all public occasions.
The citizens were kept for several years in anticipation of another royal visit, which
was at length accomplished in 1633. The same loyalty was displayed, as on similar occasions,
for receiving the King with suitable splendour. The celebrated poet, Drummond
of Hawthornden, was appointed to address him on this occasion, which he did in a
speech little less extravagant than that with which the town-clerk had hailed his royal
father’s arrival.
The King was received at
the West Port by the nymph Edina, and again at the Overbow by the lady Caledonia, each
of whom welcomed him in copious verse, attributed to Drummond’s pen. The members
of the College added their quota, and Mercury, Apollo, Endymion, the Moon, and a whole
host of celestial visitants made trial of the royal patience in lengthy @ymes !
Fergus I. received the King at the Tolbooth, and “in a grave speech gave many
paternal and wholesome advices to his royal successor ; ” and Mount Parnassus was
erected at the Trone, “with a great variety of vegetables, rocks, and other decorations
peculiar to mountains,’’ and crowded with all its ancient inhabitants. The whole fantastic
exhibition cost the city upwards of 3241,000 Scottish money!’ The most interesting
feature on the occasion was a series of the chief works of Jamesone, the famous Scottish
painter, with which the Nether Bow Port was adorned. This eminent artist continued to
reside in Edinburgh till his death, in 1644. He was buried in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard,
but without a monument, and tradition has failed to preserve any record of the
spot.
This hearty reception by the citizens of Edinburgh was followed by his coronation, on
the 18th of June, in the Abbey Church of Holyrood, with the utmost splendour and pomp ;
but the King was not long gone ere the discontents of the people were manifested by murmuring
and complaints. Under the guidance of Laud, Charles had resolved to carry out
the favourite project of his father, for the complete establishment of Episcopacy in Scotland
; but he lacked the cautious prudence of James, no less than the wise councillors of
Elizabeth. He erected Edinburgh into a separate diocese, taking for that purpose a portion
of the ancient Metropolitan See of St Andrews, and appointed the Collegiate Church
The orator’s poetical skill was nest called into requisition.
Maitland, p. 63-69. ... VI. TO RESTORATION OF CHARLES 11. 91 In the following year, the Common Council purchased the elevated ground ...

Book 10  p. 99
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a2 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Deacons mustered the whole burgher force of the city, armed and equipped in warlike array,
and marched at their head to the Links of Leith. From thence the magistrates proceeded
to the town, and ‘( held ane court upon the Tolbuyth stair of Leith, and created bailies,
sergeants, clerks, and demstars,’ and took possession. thereof by virtue of their infeftment
made by the Queen’s grace to them.”’ The superiority thus established, continued to be
maintained, often with despotic rigour, until the independence of Leith was secured by the
Burgh Reform Bill of 1833.
On the 22d of August, the Earl of Murray was invested with the dignity of Regent,
and proclamation of the same made at the Cross of Edinburgh; with great magnificence
and solemnity. In his strong hand, the sceptre was again swayed for a brief period with
such stern rigour, as checked the turbulent factions, and restored, to a great extent, tranquillity
to the people. But his regency was of brief duration; he fell by the hand of
an assassin in the month of January 1570, and the Earl of Lennox succeeded to hie
office. He was buried in St Giles’s Church, and a monument erected to his memory
in the south transept, which remained a point of peculiar attraction in the old fabric,
until it was most barbarously demolished, during the alterations effected on the building
in 1829.
The Castle, at this time, was held by Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange, who still adhered
to the Queen’e party ; and he abundantly availed himself of the unsettled state of affairs
to strengaen his position. He had seized all provisions brought into Leith, and raised and
trained soldiers with little interruption. On the 28th of March 1571, he took forcible
possession of St Giles’s Church, and manned the steeple to keep the citizens in awe ; and
again on the 1st of May, the Duke of Chatelherault, having entered the town with 300
men, the men of war in the steeple, ‘( slappit all the pendis of the kirk,’ for keeping
thairof aganis my Lord Regent,” and immediate preparations were made for the defence
of the town. Troops crowded into the city, and others mustered against it, the Regent
being bent on holding a Parliament there. The Estates accordingly assembled in the
Canongate, without the walls, but within the liberties of the city, which extended to
St John’s Cross, and a battery was erected for their protection, upon (‘ the Dow Craig‘
abone the Trinity College, beside Edinburgh, to ding and seige the north-east quarter of
the burgh.’’ ’
The place indicated is obviously that portion of the Calton Hill where the house of the
governor of the jail now stands, a most commanding position for the purpose in view ;
from this an almost constant firing was kept up on the city during the sittings of the Parliament.
The opposite party retaliated by erecting a battery in the Blackfriars (the old
High School Yard), from which they greatly damaged the houses in the Canongate, while
the Nether Bow Port was built up with stone and lime, the more effectually to exclude
them from the usual place of meeting.
Diligent preparations were made for the defence of the town after the Parliament had
withdrawn. On the 6th of June, commandment was given ‘‘ by the lords of the nobility
in Edinburgh, to tir and tak down all the tymmer work of all houses in Leith Wynd and
Le., Judge8 or doomem, latterly hangmen. 9 Diurnal of Occurrents, p. 117.
e Diurnal of Oocurrenta, p. 213.
3 Ibid, p. 202.
6 Most probably from the Gaelic A, i c , Black Craig.
i.e., Broke out loap-holes in the arched roof. ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. Deacons mustered the whole burgher force of the city, armed and equipped in warlike ...

Book 10  p. 90
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THE HIGH STREET. 231
Lord Philiphaugh, one of the judges appointed after the Revolution. He sat in the Convention
of Estates which assembled at Edinburgh, 26th June 1678, and was again chosen
to represent the county of Selkirk in Parliament in the year 1681, when he became a
special object of jealousy to the government. He was imprisoned in 1684 ; and under the
terror of threatened torture with the boots, he yielded to give evidence against those
implicated in the Rre House Plot. He had the character of an upright and independent
judge, but his contemporaries never forgot ‘‘ that unhappy step of being an evidence to
save his life,”’ a weakness that most of those who remembered it against him would
probably have shown in like circumstances.
A little further down the close another doorway appears, adorned with an inscription
and armorial bearings. At the one end of the lintel is a shield bearing the arms of Bruce
of Binning, boldly cut in high relief, and at the other end the same, impaled with those of
Preston, while between them is this inscription, in large ornamental characters,
GRACIA DEI * ROBERTUS * BRUISS
In the earlier titles of property in this close, it is styled Bruce’s Close, and the family have
evidently been of note and influence in their day. We were not without hope of being
able to trace their connection with the celebrated Robert Bruce, who, as one of the ministers
of Edinburgh, became an object of such special animosity to James VI. ; and the vicinity
of the old mansion to the ancient church where he officiated renders it not improbable in
the absence of all evidence.’
Still farther down, another doorway, ornamented with inscriptions and armorial bearings:
gives access to a large and handsome dwelling on the first floor, adorned at its entrance
with a niche or recess, formed of a pointed arch, somewhat‘ plainer than the (‘ fonts ”
described in Blyth’s Close. Here was the residehce of the celebrated Sir Thomas Craig, who
won the character of an upright judge, and a man of eminent learning and true nobleness
of character, during the long period of forty years that he practised as a lawyer, in the
reign of Queen Mary and James VI. One of his earliest duties as a justice-depute was the
trial and condemnation of Thomas Scott, sheriff-depute of Perth, and Henry Yair a priest,
for having kept the gates of Holyrood Palace during the assassination of Rizzio. He
appears to have been a man of extreme modesty, and little inclined from his natural disposition
to take a prominent part in public affairs. Whether from timidity or difEdence, he
left Sir Thomas Hope to fulfil the duties which rightly devolved on him, as advocate for
the Church, at the famous trial of the six ministers. He was of a studious turn, and readier
in the use of his pen than his tongue. His legal treatises are still esteemed for their great
learning ; and several of his Latin poems are to be found in the “ Delitiae Poetarum Scotorum,”
containing, according to his biographer Nr Tytler, many passages eminently poetical.
It is a curious fact, that although repeatedly offered by King James the honour of knighthood,
he constantly refused it ; and he is only styled (‘ Sir Thomas Craig,” in consequence
Hackay’s Memoirs. ’ In the Book of Retoum, vol. ii., Nos. 26 and 30, in the year 1600, Robert Bruce, heir male of Robert Bruce of
Binning, his father, appears as owner of various hnds in Linlithgow, anciently belonging to the F’rioress and Convent
of the B. V. Yary of Elcho, with the chuich lands of the vicarage of Byning.
a The inscription, now greatly defaced, is, Gratia Dei, Thiromas T . . . . ... HIGH STREET. 231 Lord Philiphaugh, one of the judges appointed after the Revolution. He sat in the ...

Book 10  p. 251
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ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES. 403
church, as appears from the Corporation records :-‘‘ 16 June, 1641, the Grayfriars’ Kirk-
Sessionmappliedt o the Corporation, in order to have the Magdalme Chapple bell rung on
their aciount, for which they agreed to pay !240 Scots yearly, which was agreed to duriug
pleasure.’’
This ancient chapel claims our interest now as the arena of proceedings strangely
different from those contemplated by its founders. In 1560, John Craig, B Scottish
Dominican monk, returned to his native country after an absence of twenty-four years,
during which he had experienced a succession of as remarkable vicissitudes as are recorded
of any individual in that eventful age. He had resided as chaplain in the family of Lord
Dacre, an English nobleman, and was afterwards appointed to an honourable office in the
Dominican monastery at Bologna, through the favourable recommendations of the celebrated
Cardinal Pdle. The chance discovery of a copy of Calvin’s Institutes in the
convent library led to an entire change in his religious opinions, in consequence of which
he was compelled to fly ; and being at length seized, he endured a tedious imprisonment
in the dungeons of the Roman Inquisition. From this he was delivered the very day
before that fixed for an Auto-da-f& in which he was doomed to suffer at the stake, in
consequence of the tumultuous rejoicing of the Roman population on the death of the
Pope, Paul IT., in 1559, when the buildings of the Inquisitlbn were pillaged, and its
dungeons broken open. Thence he escaped, amid many strange adventures, first to
Bologna, and then to Vienna, where he was appointed chaplain to the Emperor Maximilian
11. After a time, however, the Inquisition found him out, and demanded his
being delivered up to suffer the judgnent already decreed. “his it was that compelled
his return to Scotland, at the very time when his countrymen were carrying out a system
in conformity with his new opinions. He found, however, on revisiting his country
after so long an absence, that he had almost entirely forgot his native tongue, and he
accordingly preached in Latin for a considerable time, in St Magdalene’s Chapel, tosuch
scholars as his learning and abilities attracted to hear him. He afterwards became
the colleague and successor of Knox, and as such published the banns of marriage in St .
Giles’s Church, preparatory to the fatal union of Queen Mary with Bothwell. We learn
also from Melville’s Diary, that The General1 Assemblie conveinit at Edinbruche
in Apryll 1578, in the Magdalen Chapell. Mr Andro Melvill was chosin Moderator,
whar was concludit, That Bischopes sould be callit be thair awin names, or be the names
of BreitAer in all tyme coming, and that lordlie name and quthoritie banissed from the
Kirk of God, quhilk hes bot‘a Lord, Chryst Jesus.”’ One other incident concerning
the ancient chapel worthy of recording is, that in 1661 the body of the Marquis of
Argyle was carried thither, and lay in the chapel for some days, until it was removed by
his friends to the family sepulchre at Kdmun, while his head was afExed to the north
gable of the Tolbooth.
The Abbey of Holyrood, though a far more wealthy and important ecclesiastical
establishment than St Giles’s College, or any o€her of the ancient religious foundations
of the Scottish capital, may be much more summarily treated of here. Its foundation
charter still exists, and the dates of its successive enlargements and spoliations have
been made the subject of careful investigation by some of our ablest historians. The
Archmlogia Scotica, p. 177. a Melville’s Diary, Wodrow Soc. p. 61. ... ANTIQUITIES. 403 church, as appears from the Corporation records :-‘‘ 16 June, 1641, the ...

Book 10  p. 442
(Score 0.4)

INDEX.. 469
Preatongrange, Lord, 253
Prestonpans, 52
Potterrow, 345
Priestfield House, 104
Primrose, Viscount, 163
Prince, Sir Magnus, 178
Provost, Title of Lord, 153
Pirses, The, 188, 197, 280
Quarrel Holes, 64
Queen Mary‘s Dial. See Dial
Queensberry, Earl of, 323
Port, 398
Lady, 163
Oreyfriars’ Port, 454
Bath. See Bath
Duke of, 108,137,183, 210,299
Duchess of, 199
House, 199, 299, 454
Raeburn, Sir Henry, 181, 237
Rae’s Close, 280
Rambollet, Monsieur, 284
Ramsay, Alexander, 7
Allan, 142, 198, 228, 241, 251, 252, 326
Cuthbert, 73
Oeorge, 187
Mias Jean, 285
Lane, 143
Randolph, the Nephew of Bruce, 6
Ratho Church, 129
Rebus of Preston, 382
Regalia, The, 25, 36, 127
Regent’s Aisle, St Oiles’s Church, 390
Reid, James, Constable of the Castle, 128
Reid‘s Close, Canongate, 299
Reservoir, 143
Restalrig Church, 83, 398
Restoration, The, 98, 99, 436,
Rich, Lady Diana, Apparition of, 410
Richard, II., of England, 379, 384
Richmond, Alexander, 110
Riddle’s Close, Lawnmarket, 167, 453
Riding School, Old, 347
Ridotto of Holyrood House, 324
Risp. See Tiding Pin
Robert the Bruce, 6, 356, 373
II., 8, 11, 12, 17, 384
Robertson, Dr, 162, 328
of Kincraigie, 214
Robin Hood, 58, 69, 83
Rockville, Lord, 141
Roman Eagle Hall, 169, 431
Romieu, Paul, the Clockmaker, 340
Roseburn House, 95
Rosehaugh Close, 261
Roslyn Castle, 50
ROM, Earl of, 13
Ambassador of Queen Elizabeth, 72
of Prior Bolton, 382
Street, East, 347
Close, Castlehill, 141
Countem of, 260
Ross, Sir John, the Poet, 24
James, Bishop of, 399
Xom’s Court, 141
Rothes, Lord, 215, 287, 326
Rotheay, 12
Duke of, 350, 388
Rotten Row, Leith, 360
Roull of Corstorphine, the Poet, 24
Rowan, Mr William, 290
Roxburgh, Earls of, 230
Roxburgh, Robert, 1st Earl of, 293, 373
Tavern, 209
Robert, 4th Earl of, 298
Castle, 18
Hotse, 298
Close, 230
Royal Exchange, 235
Royal Circus, 369
Royston, Lord, 169
Ruddiman, Thomas, 210
Rudeside, Leith, 366
Rumbold, Richard, an Ironside, 216
Runciman, Alexauder, the Painter, 172, 237,347
Runic Inscription, 131
Ruthven, Lord, 65, 76, 77
Master of, 57
Ruthven’s Land, Lord, 338
Ryan, John, Actor, 287
Rye House Plot, 21 7, 231
Rynd, James, Burgess, 156
Janet, Foundress of Magdalene Chapel, 400-403
Sadler, Sir Ralph, 64
Salamander Land, 242
Salisbury Crags, 83
Cathedral, 197
Sanctuary, 137,306, 317
Sanderson, Deacon, 69
Sandilands’ Close, 255
Sark, Battle of, 17
Saxe-Coburg Place, 369
Scott of Thirlstane, Sir Francis, 269
of Ancrum, Sir John, 256
Sir Walter, 115, 129, 154, 185, 289, 347, 365,376
Sir James, 68
442,443
Birth Place of, 323
Thomas, one of the Miirderers of Rizdo, 77
Scougal, John, the Painter, 229
Seafield, Lord Chancellor, 218, 295
Seaton, 77
Seatoun House, 303
Sebastian, one of the Jdurderers of Darnley, 81
Secret Chamber, 149, 152
Selkirk, Earl of, 269
Sellar‘s Close, 225
Sempill, Lord, E‘, 144
Lady, 145
Honourable Anne, 145
of Beltrees, 144, 354
Colonel, 176
Sempill’s Close, 144, 145
Seton, Oeorge, 2d Lord, 22
3 0 ... 469 Preatongrange, Lord, 253 Prestonpans, 52 Potterrow, 345 Priestfield House, 104 Primrose, Viscount, ...

Book 10  p. 508
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140 ROSLIN, HAWTHORNDEN,
also his brother, Mr. Nicholas Monk, stayed with him about two months in
the year 1659, having been sent, it is said, to sound his views as to the
restoration of Charles. In November 1659, when Monk drew his army
together from all parts of Scotland, in preparation for that famous march of
his to London, which did lead to the restoration of Charles, Dalkeith at last
relapsed into quietude. The crumbling ruins of a long stone building in
the old Chapelwell Close, a tuping off the High Street nearly opposite the
Church, are still known as ‘ Cromwell’s Orderly House.’ Cromwell had been
in Scotland for about a year, and Dalkeith had been one of his stations ; but
Monk was there so much longer and so much more familiarly, that if any one
meets an English ghost thereabouts at night, in a military costume of the
seventeenth century, he may be sure it is Monk‘s.
DALKEITH PALACE.
The present Palace was built by Anne, sister of the young Mary,’from
whom it was leased by Monk. Mary was mamed at the age of eleven to
Walter Scott of Harden, and died two years afterwards, leaving the property
to her sister Anne. Anne was’but twelve years old when she was mamed to
Charles II.’s unfortunate son the Duke of Monmouth, himself only fifteen,
and on the day of their mamage they were created Duke and Duchess of
Buccleuch. On the Duke’s death his confiscated lands &ere restored to-his
widow ; and she built the present Palace of Dalke-ith, a gloomy-looking three
sided erection, in imitation of the Palace of Loo in the Netherlands, designed ... ROSLIN, HAWTHORNDEN, also his brother, Mr. Nicholas Monk, stayed with him about two months in the year 1659, ...

Book 11  p. 199
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and made the ornate edifice we find it now, with
?oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was
author of ?The Wolf of Badenoch,? ?The History of
the Morayshire Floods,? a ?Journal of the Queen?s
Visit to Scotland in 1842,? &c He was the lineal
.representative of the Lauders of Lauder Tower and
the Bass, and of the Dicks of Braid and Grange,
and died in 1848.
Near the Grange House is the spacious and
ornamental cemetery of the same name, bordered
on the east by a narrow path, once lined by dense
hedge-rows, which led from the Grange House to the
Meadows, and was long known as the Lovers? Loan.
This celebrated burying-ground contains the ashes of
Drs. Chalmers,Lee,and Guthne; Sir Andrew Agnew
of Lochnaw, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Sir Hope
? Grant of Kilgraston, the well-known Indian general
and cavalry officer ; Hugh Miller, Scotland?s most
eminent geologist ; the second Lord Dunfermline,
and a host of other distinguished Scotsmen.
CHAPTER V.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWINGTON.
The Causewayside-Summerhall-Clerk Street Chapel and other Churches-Literary Institute-Mayfield Loan-Old Houses-Free Church-
The Powbum-Female Blind Asylum-Chapel of St. John the Baptist-Dominican Convent at the Sciennes-Sciennes Hill House-Scott
and Burns meet-New Trades Maiden Hospital-Hospital for Incurables-Prestonfield House-The Hamiltons and Dick-Cunninghams-
Cemetery at Echo Bank-The Lands of Camemn-Craigmillar-Dexription of the Castle-James V., Queen Mary, and Darnley, resident
there-Queen Mary?s Tree-The Prestons and Gilmours-Peffer Mill House.
In the Grange Road is the Chalmers Memorial
Free Church, built in 1866, after designs by
Patrick Wilson at a cost of .&6,000. It is a
cruciform edifice, in the geometric Gothic style.
In Kilgraston goad is the Robertson Memorial
Established Church, built in 187 I, after designs
by Robert Morham, at a cost of more than L6,ooo.
It is also a handsome cruciform edifice in the
Gothic style, with a spire 156 feet high.
In every direction around these spots spread
miles of handsome villas in every style of architecture,
with plate glass oriels, and ornate railings,
surrounded by clustering trees, extensive gardens ,
and lawns, beautiful shrubberies - in summer,
rich with fruit and lovely flowers-the long lines
of road intersected by tramway rails and crowded
by omnibuses.
Such is now the Burghmuir of James 111.-the
Drumsheugh Forest of David I. and of remoter , times.
WHEN the population of Edinburgh,? says Sir
Walter Scott, ?appeared first disposed to burst
from the walls within which it had been so long
confined, it seemed natural to suppose that the
tide would have extended to the south side of
Edinbugh, and that the New Town would have
occupied the extensive plain on the south side
of the College.? The natural advantage pointed
out so early by Sir Walter has been eventually embraced,
and the results are the populous suburban
districts we have been describing, covered with
streets and villas, and Newington, which now extends
from the Sciennes and Preston Street nearly
to the hill crowned by the ancient castle of Craigmillar.
In the Valuation Roll for 1814 the district is
described as the ?Lands of Newington, part of the
Old and New Burrowmuir.?
The year 1800 saw the whole locality open and
arable fields, save where stood the old houses of - Mayfield at the Mayfield Loan, a few cottages at
Echo Bank, and others at the Powbum. In those
days the London mails proceeded from the town
by the East Cross Causeway; but as time went
on, Newington House was erected, then a villa
or two : among the latter, one still extant neqr the
corner of West Preston Street, was the residence
of William Blackwood the publisher, and founder
of the firm and magazine.
In the Causewayside, which leads direct from
the Sciennes to the Powburn, were many old and
massive mansions (the residences of wealthy citizens),
that stood back from the roadway, within ?
double gates and avenues of trees. Some of these
edifices yet remain, but they are of no note, and are
now the abodes of the poor.
Broadstairs House, in the Causewayside, a
massive, picturesque building, demolished to make
room for Mr. T. C. Jack?s printing and publishing
establishment, was built by the doctor of James IV.
or V., and remained in possession of the family till
the end of last century- One half of the edifice
was known as Broadstairs House, and the other
half as Wormwood Hall. Mr. Jack bought the ... made the ornate edifice we find it now, with ?oriel windows and clustering turrets. He was author of ?The ...

Book 5  p. 50
(Score 0.4)

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