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Leith.] THE KING'S WARK. 237
~
Arnot adds. It was to keep one of the cellars in
the King's Wark in repair, for holding wines and
other provisions for the king's use.
This Bernard Lindsay it was whom Taylor
mentions in his '' Penniless Pilgrimage " as having
Moreover, the King's Wark was placed most
advantageously at the mouth of the harbour, to
serve as -a defence against any enemy who might
approach it from the seaward. It thus partook
somewhat of the character of a citadel; and this
BERNARD STREET.
given him so warm a welcome at Leith in
1618.
That some funds were derivable from the King's
Wark to the Crown is proved by the frequent
payments with which it was burdened by several
of our monarchs. Thus, in the year 1477 James
111. granted out of it a perpetual annuity of twelve
marks Scots, for support of a chaplain to officiate
at the altar of c'the upper chapel in the collegiate
church of the Blessed Virgin Mary at
Restalrig."
seems to have been implied by the infeftment
granted by Queen Mary in 1564 to John Chisho!ia,
Master or Comptroller of the Royal Artillery,
who would appear to have repaired the buildings
which, no doubt, shared in the general conflagrations
that signalised the English invasions of 1544
and 1547. and the queen, on the completion
of his work, thus confirms her grant to the
comptroller :-
U Efter Her Heinis lauchful age, and revocation
made in parIiament, hir majestie sett in feu farme

... THE KING'S WARK. 237 ~ Arnot adds. It was to keep one of the cellars in the King's Wark in ...

Book 6 p. 237
(Score 0.49)

Holyrood.] THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59
and cannon were two ship?s masts, fully rigged,
one on the right bearing the Scottish flag, another
on the left bearing the English. ?? Above all these
rose the beautiful eastem window, shedding a flood
of light along the nave, eclipsing the fourteen
windows of the clerestory. The floor was laid
with ornamental tiles, some portions of which are
yet preserved.?
In the royal yacht there came to Leith from
London an altar, vestments, and images, to complete
the restoration of the church to its ancient uses.
As if to hasten on the destruction of his house,
James VII., not content with securing to his
Catholic subjects within the precincts of Holyrood
that degree of religious toleration now enjoyed
by every British subject, had mass celebrated there,
and established a college of priests, whose rules
were published on the zznd of March, 1688, inviting
people to send their children there, to be
educated gratis, as Fountainhall records. He also
appointed a Catholic printer, named Watson (who
availed himself of the protection afforded by the
sanctuary) to be ? King?s printer in Holyrood ;?
and obtained a right from the Privy Council
to print all the ? prognostications at Edinburgh,?
an interesting fact which accounts for the number
of old books bearing Holyrood on their
title-pages. Prior to all this, on St. Andrew?s
Day, 30th November, the whole church was
sprinkled with holy water, re-consecrated, and a
sermon was preached in it by a priest named
Widerington.
Tidings of the landing of William of Orange
roused the Presbyterian mobs to take summary vengeance,
and on being joined by the students of the
University, they assailed the palace and chapel royal.
The guard, IOO strong-? the brats of Belia1?-
under Captain Wallace, opened a fire upon them,
killing twelve and wounding many more, but they
were ultimately compelled to give way, and the
chapel doors were burst open. The whole interior
was instantly gutted and destroyed, and
the magnificent throne, stalls, and orgab, were
ruthlessly tom down, conveyed to the Cross, and
there consigned to the flames, amid the frantic
shrieks and yells of thousands. Not content with
all this, in a spirit of mad sacrilege, the mob, now
grown lawless, burst into the royal vault, tore some
of the leaden coffins asunder, and, according to
Amot, camed off the lids.
By the middle of the eighteenth century the rooG
which had become ruinous, was restored with flagstones
in a manner too ponderous for the ancient
arches, which gave way beneath the superincumbent
weight on the 2nd of December, 1768; and again
the people of Edinburgh became seized by a spirit
of the foullest desecration, and from thenceforward,
until a comparafively recent period, the ruined
church remained open to all, and was appropriated ?
tu the vilest uses. Grose thus describes what he
saw when the rubbish had been partly cleared
away :-? When we lately visited it we saw in the
middle of the chapel the columns which had been
borne down by the weight of the roof. Upon
looking into the vaults which were open, we found
that what had escaped the fury of the mob at the
Revolution became a prey to the mobwho ransacked
it after it fell. In A.D. 1776 we had seen the body
of James V. and others in their leaden coffins;
the coffins are now stolen. The head of Queen
Margaret (Magdalene?), which was then entire, and
even beautiful, and the skull of Damley, were also
stolen, and were last traced to the collection of a
statuary in Edinburgh.?
In 1795 the great east window was blown out
in a violent storm, but in 1816 was restored from
its own remains, which lay scattered about on the
ground. In the latter year the north-west tower,
latterly used as a vestry, was still covered by an
ogee leaden roof.
The west front of what remains, though the W0i-k
perhaps of different periods, is in the most beautiful
style of Early English, and the boldly-cut heads
in its sculptured arcade and rich variety of ornament
in the doorway are universally admired.
The windows above it were additions made so
latelyas the time of Charles I., and the inscriptions
which that upfortunate king had carved on the
Ornamental tablet between them is a striking illustration
of the vanity of human hopes. One runs :-
Ultimately this also fell.
?Basiluam ham, Carolus Rex, @firnus imtaxravit, 1633.?
The other :-
?HE SHALL ESTABLISH ANE HOUSE FOR MY NAME, AND I
WILL ESTABLISH THE THRONE OF HIS KINGDOM FOR
EVER.?
In the north-west tower is amarble monument to
Robert, Viscount Belhaven, who was interred there
in January, 1639. His nephews, Sir Archibald and
Sir Robert Douglas, placed there that splendid
memorial to perpetuate hisvirtues as a man and
steadiness as a patriot. A row of tombs of Scottish
nobility and others lie in the north aisle. The
Roxburgh aisle adjoins the royal vault in the
south aisle, and in front of it lies the tomb of the
Countess of Errol, who died in 1808. Close by.
it is that of the Bishop of Orkney, already referred
to. ? A flattering inscription enumerates the.
bishop?s titles, and represents this worldly hypocrite

... THE ABBEY CHURCH IN RUINS. 59 and cannon were two ship?s masts, fully rigged, one on the right bearing ...

Book 3 p. 59
(Score 0.49)

St Andrew Square] ROYAL BANK
bank. The other existing banks have all been
constituted by contracts of co-partnery since the
year 1825, and, with the exception of the Caledonian
Banking Company, are all carrying on
business under the Companies Act of 1862. With
this office is incorporated No. 41, which, in 1830,
was the shop of Messrs. Robert Cadell and Co.,
the eminent booksellers and publishers.
The Royal Bank of Scotland occupies a pre
minent position on the west side of the square, in a
deep recess between the British Linen Company
and the Scottish Provident Institution.
It was originally the town house of Sir Lawrence
Dundas, Bart., and was one of the first houses
built in the square, on what we believe was intended
as the place for st. Andrew?s church. The
house was designed by Sir William Chambers, on
the model of a much-admired villa near Rome, and
executed by William Jamieson, mason. Though
of an ancient family, Sir Lawrence was the architect
of his own fortune, and amassed wealth as a conimissary-
general with the army in Flanders, 1748 to
1759. He was the second son of Thomas Dundas,
a bailie of Edinburgh, whose diffculties brought
him to bankruptcy, and for a time Sir Lawrence
served behind a counter, He was created a
baronet in 1762, with remainder, in default of
male issue, to his elder brother, Thomas Dundas,
who had succeeded to the estate of Fingask. His
son Thomas was raised to the peerage of Great
Britain as Baron Dundas of Aske, in Yorkshire, in
August, 1794 and became ancestor of the Earls of
Zetland.
About 1820 the Royal Bank, which had so long
conducted its business in the Old Bank Close in
the High Street, removed to the house of Sir
Lawrence Dundas.
We have thus shown that St. Andrew Square is
now as great a mart for business as it was once a
fashionable quarter, and some idea may be had of
the magnitude of the interests here at stake when
it is stated that the liabilities-that is, the total sums
insured-of the six leading insurance houses alone
exceed ~45,ooo,ooo, and that their annual income
is upwards of ~1,8oo,ooo-a revenue greater than
that of several States !
Melville?s monument, in the centre of the square,
was erected in 1821, in memory of Henry Dundas,
first Viscount Melville, who was Lord Advocate in
1775, and filled some high official situations in the
Government of Britain during the administration
of William Pitt He was raised to the peerage in
OF SCOTLAND. 171
1802, and underwent much persecution in 1805
for alleged malversation in his office as treasurer to
the navy; but after a trial by his peers was triumphantly
judged not guilty.
Designed by William Burn, this monument consists
of pedestal, pillar, and statue, rising to the
height of 150 feet, niodelled after the Trajan
column at Rome, but fluted and not ornamented
with sculpture; the statue is 14 feet in height.
The cost was _f;8,ooo, defrayed-8s the inverse
side of the plate in the foundation stone states
-?by the voluntary contribbtions of the officers,
petty-officers, seamen, and marines of these united
kingdoms.? It was laid by Admirals Sir D a d
Milne and Otway, naval commander-inchief in
Scotland, after prayer by Principal Baird, on the
anniversary of Lord Melville?s birthday. In the
stone was deposited a great plate of pure gold,
bearing the inscription. A plate of silver bearing
the names of the committee was laid in the stone
at the same time.
The Hopetoun monument, within the recess in
front of the Royal Bank, is in memory of Sir John
Hope, fourth Earl of Hopetoun, G.C.H., Colonel
of the gznd Gordon Highlanders, who died in
1823, a distinguished Peninsular officer, who assumed
the command of the army at Corunna, on
the fall of his countryman Sir John Moore. It was
erected in 1835, and comprises a bronze statue, in
Roman costume, leaning on a pawing charger.
West Register Street, which immediately adjoins
St. Andrew Square, is a compound of several
short thoroughfares, and contains the site of
?( Ambrose?s Tavern,? the scene of Professor NIson?s
famous ?Noctes Ambrosianze,? with a remnant
of the once narrow old country pathway
known as Gabriel?s Road. cG Ambrose?s Tavern,?
a tall, three-storeyed edifice, like a country farmhouse,
enjoyed much repute independent of the
?Noctes,? and was removed in 1864. Hogg, the
Ettrick .Shepherd, who was fond of all athletic
sports and manly exercises, was long made to
figure conspicuously in these Noctes ? in BZack3
wmZs Magazine, which gave his name a celebrity
beyond that acquired by his own writings.
At one of the corners of West Register Street is
the great palatial paper warehouse of the Messrs
Cowan, one of the most elaborately ornate busiqess
establishments in the city, which was erected in
1865, by the Messrs. Beattie, at a cost of about
A7,000, and has two ornamental fronts with chaste
and elegant details in the florid Italian styk

... Andrew Square] ROYAL BANK bank. The other existing banks have all been constituted by contracts of co-partnery ...

Book 3 p. 171
(Score 0.49)

298 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street.
In that year a fishing company was dissolved,
and the partners were pcevailed upon to assign part
of their stock to promote this benevolent institution,
which the state of the poor in Edinburgh rendered
so necessary, as hitherto the members of the Royal
College of Physicians had given both medicines
and advice to them gratis.
A subscription for the purpose was at the same
time urged, and application made to the General
Assembly to recommend a subscription in all the
parishes under its jurisdiction ; but Arnot records,
to the disgrace of the clergy of that day, that ?ten
out of eleven utterly disregatded it.?
Aid came in from lay purses, and at the second
meeting of contributors, the managers were elected,
the rules of procedure adjusted, and in 1729, on
the 6th of August, the Royal Infirmary-ohe of
the grandest and noblest institutions in the British
Isles, was opened, but in a very humble fashionin
a small house hired for the sick poor, hear the
old University-a fact duly recorded in the
Month0 Cirronicle of that year, on the 18th of
the month. This edifice had been formerlyused
by Dr. Black, Professor of Chemistry, as the place
for delivering his lectures, says Kincaid, but this
must have been before his succession to the chair.
It was pulled down when the South Bridge was
built. Six physicians and surgeons undertook to
give, as before, medicines and attendance gratis ;
and the total number of patients received in the
first year amounted to only thirty-five, of whom
nineteen were dismissed as cured. The six physicians,
whose names deserve to be recorded with
honour, were John &?Gill, Francis Congalton,
George Cunninghame, Robert Hope, Alexander
Munro, and John Douglas. Such was the origin
of the Edinburgh Infirmary, which, small as it was
at first, was designed from its very origin as a
benefit to the whole kingdom, no one then dreaming
that a time would come when every considerable . county town would have a similar hospital.?
In the year 1736, by a royal charter granted by
George II., at Kensington palace, on the 25th of
August, the contributors were incorporated, and
they proposed to rear a building calculated to accommodate
1,700 patients per annum, allowing six
weeks? residence for each at an average ; and after a
careful consideration of plans a commencement was
made with the east wing of the present edifice, the
foundation-stone of which was laid on the 2nd of
August, 1738, by George Mackenzie, the gallant
Earl of Cromarty, who was then Grand Master
Mason of Scotland, and was afterwards attainted
for leading 400 of his clan at the battle of Falkirk.
The Royal College of Physicians attended as a
body on this occasion, and voted thirty guineas
towards the new Infirmary.
This portion of the building was, till lately,
called the Medical House. Supplies of money were
promptly rendered. The General Assembly-with a
little better success-again ordered collections to
be made, and the Established clergy were now probably
spurred on by the zeal of the Episcopalians,
who contributed to the best of their means; so
did various other public bodies and associations.
Noblemen and gentlemen of the highest position,
merchants, artisans, farmers, carters-all subscribed
substantially. Even the most humble in the ranks
of the industrious, who could not otherwise aid the
noble undertaking, gave their personal services at
the building for several days gratuitously.
A
Newcastle glass-making company glazed the whole
house gratis ; and by personal correspondence
money was obtained, not only from England and
Ireland, but from other parts of Europe, and even
from America, as Maitland records ; but this would
be, of course, from Scottish colonists or exiles.
So the work of progression went steadily on,
until the present great quadrangular edifice on the
south side of Infirmary Street was complete. It -
consists of a body and two projecting wings, all
four storeys in height. The body is 210 feet long,
and in its central part is thirty-six feet wide ; in the
end portions, twenty-four. Each wing is seventy
feet long, and twenty-four wide. The central portion
of the edifice is ornate in its architecture,
having a range of Ionic columns surmounted by a
Palladiau cornice, bearing aloft a coved roof and
cupola. Between the columns are two tablets
having the inscriptions, ?1 was naked and ye
clothed me ;? I was sick and ye visited me ;?
and between these, in a recess, is, curiously enough,
a statue of George 11. in a Roman costume, carved
in London.
The access to the different floors is by a large
staircase in the centre of the building, so spacious
as to admit the transit of sedan chairs, and by two
smaller staircases at each end. The floors are
portioned out into wards fitted up with beds for the
patients, and there are smaller rooms for nurses
and medical attendants, with others for the manager,
for consultations, and students waiting.
Two of the wards devoted to patients whose
cases are deemed either remarkable or instructive,
are set apart for clinical lectures attended by
students of medicine, and delivered by the professors
of clinical surgery in the adjacent University.
Within the attic in the centre of the building is a
spacious theatre, capable of holding above 200
Many joiners gave sashes to the windows.

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Infirmary Street. In that year a fishing company was dissolved, and the partners were ...

Book 4 p. 298
(Score 0.49)

78 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith.
CHAPTER VIII.
VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (concluded).
Eminent Men connected with Stockbridge-David Roberts, RA-K. Macleay, RSA.-Jams Browne, LL.D.-James Hogg-Sir J, Y.
Simpsan, Bart.-Leitch Ritchie-General Mitchell-G. R. Luke-Comely Bank-Fettes College-Craigleith Quarry-Groat Half-Silver-
Mills-St. Stephen?s Church-The Brothers Lauder-James Drummond, R.S.A.-Deaf and Dumb Institution-Dean Bank Institution-
The Edinburgh Academy.
IN Duncan?s Land, in the old Kirk Loan-a pile
built of rubble, removed during the construction
of Bank Street, and having an old lintel brought
from that quarter, with the legend, I FEAR GOD ONLYE,
1605-was born, on the 24th October, 1796, David
Roberts, son of a shoemaker. In the jamb of the
kitchen fireplace there remains to this day an
indentation made by the old man when sharpening
his awl. In his boyhood David Roberts gave
indications of his taste for drawing, and made free
use of his mother?s whitewashed walls, his materials,
we are told, ? being the ends of burnt spunks
(matches) and pieces of red keel.?
He was apprenticed to Gavin Beugo, a housepainter
in West Register Street, whose residence was
a house within a garden, where the north-west corner
of Clarence Street stands. His fellow-apprentice
was David Ramsay Hay, afterwards House Painter
to the Queen, and well known for his treatises
on decorative art On the expiry of his apprenticeship,
Roberts took to scene-painting, his first
essay being for a circus in North College Street;
and after travelling about in Scotland and England,
working alternately as a house and scene painter,
he returned to his parents? house in Edinburgh in
1818, and was employed by Jeffrey to decorate
with his brush the library at Craigcrook.
About this time he was scene-painting for Mr.
W. H. Murray, of the Theatre Royal, and began his
life-long acquaintance with Clarkson Stanfield. He
now took to landscape painting, and his first works-
Scottish subjects - appeared in the Edinburgh
Exhibition in 1822, when, to his delight and
astonishment he found that they had been well hung,
and bought at the private view ; two were sold foi
to a pictureidealei
who never paid for it. After scene-painting at
Drury Lane theatre, he became an exhibitor in the
Royal Academy of London, and ere long won such
fame that he was admitted to the full honours 01
Academician in 1841, and his pictures were riuickly
bought at great prices. His most splendid work i:
that entitled ?The Holy Land, Syria, Idumea,
Arabia, Egypt, and Nubia,? published in four large
volumes in 1842.
Though resident in London, he was not for.
gotten in the city of his birth, where, in the? lattei
10s. each, and one for
year, he was entertained at a public banquet in the
Hopetoun Rooms, when Lord Cockbum presided ;
md in 1858 he was feted by the Royal Scottish
Academy, Sir John Watson Gordon in the chair;
Clarkson Stanfield and Professors J. Y. Simpson
md Aytoun were present.
David Roberts died suddenly, when engaged on
his last work, ? St. Paul?s from Ludgate Hill.?? He
had left home in perfect health on the 25th of
November, 1864, to walk, but was seized with
xpoplexy in Berners Street, and died that evening.
He was buried at Norwood. His attachment to
EdinbuJgh was strong and deep, and when he returned
there he was never weary of wandering
imong the scenes of his boyhood. Thus Stockbridge
and St. Bernard?s Well received niany a
visit.
James Ballantine, in his ?Life of Roberts,?
quotes a letter of the artist, dated September, 1858,
in which he writes of himself and Clarkson Stanfield,
who accompanied him :-?.? Yesterday we went to
see a fine young fellow, a member of the RSA.
His studio is at Canonmills, near to my dear oZd
Sfock6~id?e, and we strolled along the old road, aRd
crossed the bum I had so often paddled in ; after
which, in passing through the village, I pointed out
to Stanny an early effort of mine in sign-not
scene-painting, done when I was an apprentice
boy. We had a long look at the old house where
some of my happiest days were spent.?
His parents lived to see him in the zenith of his
fime. He buried them in the Calton ; and there
is something grand and pathetic in the simplicity
with which he records their rank in life on the
stone designed by his own hand to cover their
remains :-
? Sacred to the memory of John Roberts, shoemaker
in Stockbridge, who died 27th April, 1840,
aged 86 years ; as also his wife, Christian Richie,
who died 1st July, 1845, aged 86 years. . . . This
stone is erected to their memory by their only surviving
son, David Roberts, Member of the Royal
Academy of Arts, London.?
In No. 5 Mary Place dwelt David Scott, R.S.A.,
whose most important work, ? Vasco de Gama
Doubling the Cape of Good Hope,? is now in the
Trinity House, and who died in Dalry House in

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Water of Leith. CHAPTER VIII. VALLEY OF THE WATER OF LEITH (concluded). Eminent ...

Book 5 p. 78
(Score 0.49)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
Scotland. But it does not appear that any of
this family ever sat in Parliament. The title is
supposed to be extinct, though a claim was advanced
to it recently.
The parish church is cruciform, and was erected
Cromwell, as a commissioner for forfeited estates,
in 1654.
In 1795 there was interred here William Davidson,
of Muirhouse, who died in his 8Ist year, and
was long known as one of the most eminent of
OLD CRAMOND BRIG.
in 1656, and is in the plain and tasteless style of
the period. On the north side of it is a mural
tamb, inscribed-" HERE LYES THE BODY OF SIR
JAMES HOPE, OF HOPETOW, WHO DECEASED ANNO
1661." It bears his arms and likeness, cut in bold
relief. He was the fourth son of Sir Thomas
Hope, of Craighall, was a famous alchemist in his
time, and the first who brought the art of mining to
any perfection in Scotland. He was a senator of
the College of Justice, and was in league with
Scottish merchants at Rotterdam, where he amassed
a fortune, and purchased the barony of Muirhouse
in 1776.
Among the many fine mansions here perhaps
the most prominent is the modem oiie of Barnton,
erected on the site of an old fortalice, and on rising
ground, amid a magnificently-wooded park 400
acres in extent, Barnton House was of old called
Crainond Re@, as it was once a royal hunting
seat, and in a charter of Muirhouse, granted by

... AND NEW EDINBURGH. Scotland. But it does not appear that any of this family ever sat in Parliament. The title ...

Book 6 p. 316
(Score 0.49)

Heriot's Hospital.] HERIOT'S WIVES. 565
followed him to London, and transferred his double
business from his Krame by St. Giles's, to somewhere
in Cornhill, opposite the Exchange, where his business
became so great that on one occasion, by
royal proclamation, all the mayors of England, and
in the flower of her days, leaving Xeriot once more
a childless widower. He felt her death keenly,
and a scrap of paper has been preserved, on which
he traced, two months after, the brief, but signi6-
cant sentence, never meant for the public--"shc
justices of the peace, were required to assist him in
procuring workmen at the current rate of wages.
Here, amid his prosperity, his wife died, without
children.
Five years afterwards he married Alison, one of
the nineteen children of James Primrose, who for
forty years was clerk to the Privy Council, and
ancestor of the Earls of Rosebery ; but Alison,
who brought him a dowry of A333, died soon after
cannof be foo mrifch Zimenfed, zdo cuZd not k foo
mufch Zmed" Her death occurred on the 16th
April, 1612.
He nom devoted himself entirely to the prose-
' cution of his greatly extended business, and in devising
plans for the investment of his property at his
decease j and having no relations for whom he felt
any regard, save two natural daughters, and friends
to whom he left legacies, his mind became filled

... Hospital.] HERIOT'S WIVES. 565 followed him to London, and transferred his double business ...

Book 4 p. 365
(Score 0.49)

The Cowgate.] - THE MAGDALENE CHAPEL 261
Michael Macqueen (or Macquhen), .a wealthy citi-
Zen, and afterwards by his widow, Janet Rhynd.
1725, accompanied by a servant, ?or tumbler,?
who robbed him, and against whom he warned the
people of certain country towns in the Courant of
December, I 7 25.
Arnot records that in early times there existed
in the Cowgate an ancient Maisoson Dieu which had
fallen into decay; but it was re-founded in the reign
with ancient painted glass-the only fragments in
all Scotland which have survived the Reformation,
the latter was used as a hall for their meetings.
The foundation was augmented in 1541 by two
donations from Hugh Lord Somerville, who was
taken prisoner by the English in the following
year, and had to ransom himself for I,OCO merks.
If the edifice suffered in the general sack of the
city during the invasion of 1544 it must have been
The hospital4esigned to accommodate a chap
lain and seven poor men-and the chzpel, the little
square spire of which (with its gargoyles formed like
cannon, each with a ball stuck in its mouth) is
nearly lost amid the towering modern edifices which
surround it-were dedicated to St Mary Magda-
1 and contain the royal arms of Scotland, encircled
by a wreath of thistles, and those of the Queen
Regent Mary of Guise, within a wreath of laurel,
with the shields of the founder and foundress within
ornamental borders. These probably date from
1556, in which year we find that ?The baillies and

... Cowgate.] - THE MAGDALENE CHAPEL 261 Michael Macqueen (or Macquhen), .a wealthy citi- Zen, and afterwards by ...

Book 4 p. 261
(Score 0.49)

xii OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
PAGE
The First Trades Maiden Hospital, 1830 . . . 273
TheIndustrialMuseum . , . Tofacrpa,oz 275
Old Mmto House . . . . . . . 276
Chambersstat . . . . . . . 277
Sir James Falshaw, Bart., and H.M. Lieutenant of
Edinburgh . . - . - . . . 285
LadyYester?sChurch, 18x1 . . . . . 288
Carved Stone which was over the Main Entrance to
the High School from 1578 to 1777 . . ? . 289
TheHighSchoolerectedin 1578 . . - 292
TheSecondHighSchool, 1820. . . . . 296
Dr. Adam . - . . . . . . . 297
TheOldRoyalInfirmary . . - . . . 300
The OldRoyalInfirmary, 18m. . . . . 301
Plan of Arthur?s Seat (the Sanctuary of Holyrd) . 304
TheHolyroodDairy . . . . . . - 305
Clockmill House, 1780 . . . . . . 308
Duddingston Village, from the Queen?s Drive . 309
StMargaret?sWell . . . . - . - 311
DuddingstonChurch (Exterior) . . - . 312
Duddingston Church(1nterior) . . . . 313
Gateway of Duddingston Church, showing the Jougs
andhuping-on-Stone . . . . . 314
Duddingstonhh - . . . . . I 316
Prince Charlie?s House, Duddingston . . . . 317
Ruins of St. Anthony?s Chapel, looking towards Leith 320
The Volunteer Review in the Queen?s Park, 1860
To facc page 3 2 I
St. Anthony?s Chapel in 1 5 4 and 1854 - . . 321
St. AnthonfsWell . - . . . . . 322
Thecharity Workhouse, 1820 - . - . . 324
DarienHouse, 1750 . . . . . . . 325
The Merchant Maiden?s Hospital, Bristo,. ISZO . . 328
Bristo Port, 1820 . . . . - . 329
Clarinda?s House, General?sEntry . . . . 332
1
Room in Clarinda?s House, General?s Entry . .
The Mahogany Land, Potterrow, 1821 . . .
Surgeon?s Hall - . + . . . . .
The Blind Asylum (formerly the house of Dr. Joseph
Black), NicolsonStreet, 1820 - . . .
George Square, showing house (second on the left) of
Sir Walter Scott?s father . . , . -
Park Place, showing Campbell of Succoth?s House .
TheOrganintheMusic-classRoom . . . .
TheMeadows, about 1810. . . . . ,
The Burgh Loch . . . . . . .
The Archers? Hall . . . . . . .
Archers? Hall: the Dining Hall. . . . .
Thomas Nelson. . . . . . .
The Edinburgh University Medical School, Lauriston .
George Watson?s Hospital . . . . - .
Bird?s-eye View of the New Royal Infirmary, from the
North-East, 1878 . . . . . -
Reduced Facsimile of a View of Heriot?s Hospital by
GordonofRothiemay . . . . . .
George Heriot . . . , . . , .
Reduced Facsimile of an Old Engraving of Heriot?s
Hospital . . . . . . .
Heriot?s Hospital, from the South-west Tifutepage
The Chapel, Heriot?s Hospital . . . . .
Heriot?s Hospital : the Council Room. , . ,
The North Gateway of Heriot?s Hospital . . .
Heriot?s Hospital, 1779; Porter?s Lodge; Dining
Hall ; Quadrangle, looking North ; Quadrangle,
looking South . . - . . .
A Royal Edinburgh Volunteer . . . . .
The Repentance Stool, from Old Greyfriars Church .
GreyfriarsChurch . . . . . .
Tombs in Greyfriars Churchyard, Edinburgh - .
MonogramofGeorgeHeriot?sName - . . -
?AGE
333
336
337
340
341
344
345
348
349
352
353
356 .
357
360
361
364
365
368
369
369
372
373
376
377
379
3%
381
384

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. PAGE The First Trades Maiden Hospital, 1830 . . . 273 TheIndustrialMuseum . , . ...

Book 4 p. 394
(Score 0.49)

QUEENSFERRY TO MUSSELBURGH,
ACONG THE SHORE,
WITH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ~ NOTES OF THE
DIFFERENT TOWNS AND VILLAGES.
BY THE REV. JAMES S. MILL;
SOUTH QUEENSFERRY,
In the north-east of the county of Linlithgow, is a parish of small extent,
and lies on the shore of the Forth. Generally, it is supposed to have taken
its name from Margaret, the Queen of Malcolm Canmore, in Consequence of
her crossing here;ia her frequent excursions to and from Edinburgh and
Dunfermline. It is certainly a place of great antiquity, evidences of which
are abundant. enough, both in and around the town, in the structures and
relics still extant,
No houses of
any style or importance are found in it; while its streets, narrow and short,
with a number of lanes and alleys of a somewhat dark and dingy character,
but, on the whole; clean and tidy, with a fresh healthy air about them, do not
add to its importance. How it may have looked in the days when Margaret
' wa wont to pass.througb it on her many benevolent and political embassies,
we cannot say: not just as it does now indeed; and yet, after all, not any
very great change since then may have passed over it. There is a sort of
old-world look about it, a kind of air of eld, that reminds one very strongly
of far-back times; and although none of the present structures could, by
any possibility, have witnessed the ,queenly splendour and royal pomp of the
kind-hearted and well-beloved wife of Canmore in her journeyings through
it to and from the city, still not a few of them cannot, from their appearance,
be many generations later than that period.
Queensferry, it would seeqformed part of the parish of Dalmeny until
The town itself is small and of rather mean appearance.

... TO MUSSELBURGH, ACONG THE SHORE, WITH HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ~ NOTES OF THE DIFFERENT TOWNS AND ...

Book 11 p. 134
(Score 0.49)

University.] THE FIRST VISITATION. 9
was appointed as second master in the college,
where he taught Latin for the first year, and Greek
in the second. He died in 1586 ; and from the circumstance
that he and Rollock were paid board by
the Town Council, it has been supposed that they
were both bachelors, and did not live within the
college.
ture upon being examined in their knowledge of
Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, and the whole circle
of the sciences.? Those chosen on this occasion
were Mr. Adam Colt of Inveresk, and Mr. Alexander
Scrimger of Irwin.
The first visitation of this university was held
in 1614, when the,Town Council appointed sixteen
THE LIBRARY OF THE OLD UNIVERSITY, AS SEEN FROM THE SOUTH-EAST CORNER OF THE QUADRANGLE,
LOOKING NORTH. ( F Y o ~ a8 Eng-raving by W. Ff. Lizarr of a Drawing by Playfatr).
for which, and for preaching weekly in St. Giles?s,
he had 400 merks per annum.
As students came in, the necessity for adding
as their assessors.
There was not then a chancellor in the university,
or any similar official, as in other learned
to advertise for candidates all over the kingdom.
Six appeared, and a ten days? competition in skill
followed-a sufficient proof that talent was necessary
in those early days, and much patience on the
part of the judges. ?They must have possessed
great hardihood,? says Bower, ? who could adven-
98
at Stirling, he desired the principal and regents of
his favourite university to hold a public disputation
in his presence. On this, the five officials repaired
to Stirling, where the royal pedant anxiously
awaited them, and took a very active part in the
discussion.

... THE FIRST VISITATION. 9 was appointed as second master in the college, where he taught Latin for the ...

Book 5 p. 9
(Score 0.49)

220 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Where Scotland’s nobles sate, as if in scorn
Or vain regret, o’er the deserted pile.
For centuries its paving had been worn
By courtiers, once unmatched in crafty guile,
By many a baron bold, and lovely dame,
And scions, too, of Scotland‘s royal line ;
While, from beneath, preferred a worthier claim
Names that with stern historic scenes entwine,
And some whose memory time has failed to keep,
Oblivious of the trust. Knox slumbers there,
Mingling with border chiefa that stilly sleep ;
And churl, and burgher bold, and haughty peer,
With those a people wept for, sharing now
The common lot, unhonoured and unknown.
Strange wreck, o’er ruins in the dust below ! .
Thrice deaecrated burial-place !
Where once were held in trust the noble d d
’Neath grassy hillock and memorial urn,-
With requiem graven only by their tread,
Whose steps forgotten generations spurn.
But civic sycophants,-a courtly tool,-
Bartered stone Cromwell for a Charles of lead,-
Ignoble meed for tyranny’s misrule,
To rear above the great dishonoured dead !
Fire, time, and modern taste,-the worst of all,-
Have swept in ruthless zeal across the scene
And the lead king and shadow on the wall,
Alone survive of all that once has been.
The Btone

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. Where Scotland’s nobles sate, as if in scorn Or vain regret, o’er the deserted ...

Book 10 p. 240
(Score 0.49)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 201
stood to have been imperative, namely, either to discontinue all political
intercourse, or leave the British dominions. The ex-king felt inclined to submit
to these hard conditions rather than seek an asylum elsewhere; but the
Duchesse d’Angoul.eme, and other members of the family, were indignant at a
proceeding which they deemed equally inhospitable and insulting ; whilst the
cold and almost repulsive reception given to the Duc de Blacas in London, led
them to regard this as the forerunner of some measure of a still harsher
kind. In these circumstances, they decided to accept the kind invitation of the
Emperor of Austria to take up their abode in one of the imperial palaces near
Ratisbon.
When it became known that the royal exiles were on the eve of their
departure from Edinburgh, a general feeling of regret was manifested by the
inhabitants. Charles had intended embarking early in September 1832 ; but,
in daily expectation of a Government yacht, which had been promised to carry
him to Haniburgh, a delay of several weeks occurred ; and at length, despairing
of the fulfilment of a promise which had evidently been reluctantly given, he
engaged the United Kingdom steam-ship for the voyage.’
Tuesday, the eighteenth of September, having been fixed for his Majesty’s
departure, various methods were adopted by the citizens to show their respect
for the fallen Sovereign, whose private virtues had dignified and even ennobled
his misfortunes. On the Saturday previous, the tradesmen who had been
employed by the ex-royal family entertained the members of the household at
dinner in Millar’s tavern, Abbey. In reply to the expressions of regret for their
departure, the Frenchmen said “they regretted the separation, the more especially
as they had just been long enough here to form friendships, which were now to
be torn asunder. If they did not return to France, there was no place on the
face of the earth where they would be more anxious to remain than at Edinburgh.”
On Monday an address from a considerable portion of the inhabitants was
presented to Charles X. by Eailie Small and the Rev. Mr. Badenoch? expressive
of the sentiments they entertained of the “ urbanity, beneficence, and virtuous
conduct manifested by his Majesty and the distinguished personages attached
to his suite during their residence in Edinburgh.” Charles was much affected,
and in a few sentences expressed the gratification he felt in receiving such a
mark of respect from the citizens of Edinburgh.
Early on Tuesday morning a deputation, consisting of the Lord Provost,
Colonel George Macdonell, John Rlenzies, Esq., of Pitfodels, 51r. (afterwards Sir
Charles) Gordon, William Forbes, Esq., advocate, John Robison, Esq., Secretary
There had been strange mismanagement in this matter. Charles sailed, as above stated, early
on the Tuesday; and, at five o’clock on the evening of the Thursday following, the Light&q
steam-packet arrived at Leith for the purpose of conveying his Majesty and suite. It was too late,
and was probably lpeant to be so. The Duchess d’Angouleme had been previously treated in the
same manner. After being for some time detained in London, in expectation of a Government
steamer, which had also been promised, to convey her to Rotterdam, she was at last obliged to
hire a vessel for the pnrpose at her own expense. ’ The Bailie and Mr. Badenoch were deputed with the address, chiefly becanse through their
hands the donations of his Majesty to the Poor’s House, the Board of Health, etc., had been conveyed.
VOL. It. 21,

... SKETCHES. 201 stood to have been imperative, namely, either to discontinue all ...

Book 9 p. 270
(Score 0.49)

200 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet.
the gentlemen?s mansions and goodliest houses are
obscurely founded in the aforesaid lanes. The
walls are eight or ten feet thick, exceeding strong,
not built for a day, a week, a month, or a year, but
from antiquity to posterity-for many ages. There
I found entertainment beyond my expectation or
merit; and there is fish, flesh, bread, and fruit in
such variety, that I think I may offenceless call it
superffuity or satiety.?
The ? PennileSs Pilgrim? came to Scotland in a
more generous and appreciative mind than his
countryman did, 150 years subsequently, and all
he saw filled him with wonder, especially the mountains,
to which he says : ?Shooter?s Hill, Gad?s
Hill, Highgate Hill, and Hampstead Hill, are but
molehills.?
Varied indeed have been the scenes witnessed in
the High Street of Edinburgh. Among these we
may mention a royal banquet and whimsical procession,
formed by order of James VI., in 1587.
Finding himself unable to subdue the seditious
spirit of the ecclesiastics, whom he both feared and
detested, he turned his attention to those personal
quarrels and deadly feuds which had existed for
ages among the nobles and landed.gentry, in the
hope to end them.
After much thought and preliminary negotiation,
he invited the chiefs of all the contending parties
to a royal entertainment in Holyrood, where he
obtained a promise to bury and forget their feudal
dissensions for ever. Thereafter, in the face of
all the assembled citizens, he prevailed upon them
to walk two by two, hand in hand, to the Market
Cross, where a banquet of wines and sweetmeats
was prepared for them, and where they all draIzk
to each other in token of mutual friendship and
future forgiveness. The populace testified their
approbation by loud and repeated shouts of joy.
? This reconciliatione of the nobilitie and diverse
of the gentry,? says Balfour in his Annales, ? was
the gratest worke and happiest game the king
had played in all his raigne heithertills ;? but if
his good offices did not eradicate the seeds of
transmitted hate, they, at leas{ for a time, smothered
them.
The same annalist records the next banquet
at the Cross in 1630. On the birth of a prince,
afterwards Charles II., on the 29th of May, the
Lord Lyon king-at-arms was dispatched by Charles
from London, where he chanced to be, with orders
to carry the news to Scotland. He reached Edinburgh
on the 1st of June, and the loyal joy of the
people burst forth with great effusiveness. The
batteries of the Castle thundered forth a royal
salute ; bells rang and bonfires blazed, and a table
was spread in the High Street that extended half
its entire length, from the Cross to the Tron,
whereat the nobility, Privy Council, and Judges, sat
down to dinner, the heralds in their tabards and
the royal trumpeters being in attendance.
In that same street, a generation after, was seen,
in his old age begging his bread from door to door,
John Earl of Traquair, who, in 1635, had beerk
Lord High Treasurer of Scotland and High Commissioner
to the Parliament and General Assembly,
one of the few Scottish nobles who protested against
the surrender of King Charles to the English, but
who was utterly ruined by Cromwell. A note
to Scotstarvit?s ? Scottish Statesmen,? records that
?he died in anno 1659, in extreme poverty, on the
Lord?s day, and suddenly when taking a pipe of
tobacco; and at his funeral had no mortcloth,
but a black apron; nor towels, but dog?s leishes
belonging to some gentlemen that were present ;
and the grave being two foot shorter than his body,
the assistants behoved to stay till the same was
enlarged, and be buried.?
? I saw him begging in the streets of Edinburgh,?
says another witness, James Fraser, minister of
Kirkhill; ?? he was in an antique garb, wore a
broad old hat, short cloak and panier breeches,
and I contributed in my quarters in the Canongate
towar s his relief. The Master of Lovat, Culbockie
(FraseY), Glenmonston (Grant), and myself were
there, and he received the piece of money from my
hand as humbly and as thankfully as the poorest
supplicant. It is said, that at a time he had not
(money) to pay for cobbling his boots, and died
in a poor cobbler?s house.?
And this luckless earl, so rancorously treated,
was the lineal descendant of James Stuart the
Black Knight of Lome, and of John of Gaunt Duke
of Lancaster.
Nicoll records in his curious diary that in the
October of 1654 a vast number of hares came into
the city, penetrating even to its populous and
central parts, such as the Parliament Close and
the High Street; and in the latter, a few years
subsequently, 1662, we read in the Chronicle qf
Fie of a famous quack doctor setting up his
public stage in the midst of that thoroughfare for
the third time.
John Pontheus was a German, styling himself
professor of music, and his modus operandi affords
a curious illustration of the then state of
medical science in Great Britain, and of what
our forefathers deemed the requisites to a good
physician. On the stage mentioned Pontheus had
one person to play the fool, another to dance
upon a tight rope, in order to gather and amuse
rt

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Etreet. the gentlemen?s mansions and goodliest houses are obscurely founded in ...

Book 2 p. 200
(Score 0.48)

1-50 OLD.? AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The City Crosa.
by the Figgate-burn ere he marched to storm
Dunbar.?
There lie citizens who have fought for their
country at Flodden, Pinkie, and a hundred:other
fields; and there lies one whose name is still
mighty in the land, and ?who never feared the
face of man?-John Knox. He expired at his old
manse, near the Nether Bow, on the 24th of No-
~ vember, 1572, in his sixty-seventh year, and his
body was attended to the grave by a great multitude
of people, incIuding the chief of the nobles
and the Regent Morton, whose simple iZqe over
his grave is so well known. It cannot but excite
surprise that no effort was made by the Scottish
people to preserve distinctly the remains of the
great Reformer from desecration, but some of that
spirit of irreverence for the past which he incul-
GRAVE OF JOHN KNOX.
cated thus recoiled upon himself, and posterity
knows not his exact resting-place. If the tradition
mentioned by Chambers, says Wilson, be correct, that
? his burial-place was a few feet from the front of the
old pedestal of King Charles?s statue, the recent
change in the position of the latter must have
placed it directly mer his grave-perhaps as strange
a monument to the great apostle of Presbyterianism
as fancy could devise !? Be all this as it may,
there is close by the statue a small stone let intc
the pavement inscribed simply
? I. K., 1572.?
An ancient oak pulpit, octagonal and panelled
brought from St. Giles?s church, and said to havc
been the same in which he was wont to preach, i!
still preserved in the Royal Institution on tht
Earthen Mound. . .
Close by St. Giles?s church, where radii in thc
causeway mark its site, stood the ancient cros!
of the city, so barbarously swept away by thc
ignorant and tasteless magistracy of 1756. Scott
and other men of taste, never ceased to deplore it!
destruction, and many attempts have been vainl;
nade to collect the fragments and reconstruct it,
[n ? Marmion,? as the poet has it :-
?? Dunedin?s cross, a pillared stone,
Rose on a turret octagon;
But now is razed that monument,
And the voice of Scotland?s law went forth,
Oh, be his tomb as lead to lead
Upon its dull destroyer?s head !-
A minstrel?s malison is said.?
. - -Whence royal edicts rang,
In gloribus trumpet clang.
A battlemented octagon tower, furnished with four
angular turrets, it was sixteen feet in diameter, and
fifteen feet high. From this rose the centre pillar,
xlso octagon, twenty feet in height, surmounted by
a beautiful Gothic capital, terminated by a crowned
unicorn. Caldenvood tells us that prior to King
Tames?s visit to Scotland the old cross was taken
down from the place where it had stood within
the memory of man, and the shaft transported
to the new one, by the aid of certain mariners
from Leith. Rebuilt thus in 1617, nearly on the
site of an older cross, it was of a mixed style of
architecture, and in its reconstruction, with a better
taste than later years have shown, the chief ornaments
of the ancient edifice had been preserved ;
the heads in basso-relievo, which surmounted
seven of the arches, have been referred by our
most eminent antiquaries to the remote period of
the Lower Empire. Four of those heads, which
were long preserved by Mr. Ross at Deanhaugh,
were procured by Sir Walter Scott, and are still
preserved at Abbotsford, together with the great
stone font or basin which flowed with wine on
holidays. The central pillar, long preserved at
Lord Somerville?s house, Drum, near Edinburgh,
now stands near the Napier tomb, within a railing,
on the north side of the choir of St. Giles?s, where
it was >placed_in 1866. A crowned unicorn surmounts
it, bearing a pennon blazoned with a silver
St. Andrew?scross on one side, and on the. other
the city crest-an anchor.
From the side of that venerable shaft royal proclamations,
solemn denunciations of excommunication
and outlawry, involving ruin and death, went
forth for ages, and strange and terrible have been the
scenes, the cqelties, the executions, and absurdities,
it has witnessed. From its battlements, by tradition,
mimic heralds of the unseen world cited the gallant
James and all our Scottish chivalry to appear in
the domains of Pluto immediately before the
march of the army to Flodden, as recorded at
great length in the ?? Chronicles of Pitscottie,?
and rendered more pleasantly, yet literally, into
verse by Scott- ~

... OLD.? AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The City Crosa. by the Figgate-burn ere he marched to storm Dunbar.? There lie ...

Book 1 p. 150
(Score 0.48)

Parliament Claw.
One of the shops next to the jeweller?s was,
about the middle of last century, a tavern, kept by
the famous Peter Williamson, the returned Palatine
(as the boys abducted from Aberdeen were called)
who designated himself on his signboard as
?from the other world.? Here the magistrates
partook of the Deid-chack-a dinner at the expense
of the city-after having attended an execution,
a practice abolished by Lord Provost Creech.
In 1685 an Exchange
was erected
in the Parliament
Close. It had a range
.of piazzas for the
accommodation of
merchants transact-
<ing business ; but by
sold use and wont,
attached as they were
to the more ancient
place of meeting, the
,Cross, this convenience
was scarcely ever
used by them.
In 1685 the equestrian
statue of Charles
TI., a well-executed
work in lead, was
erected in the Parliament
Close, not
far from its present
site, where one intended
for Cromwell
was to have been
placed ; but the
Restoration changed
.the political face of
Edinburgh. In the
accounts of George
Drummond, City
Treasurer, I 684-5, it
of the royal birthday are worthy of remembrance,
as being perhaps amongst the most long-cherished
customs of the people ere-
?? The times were changed, old manners gone,
And a stranger filled the Stuart?s throne.?
It was usual on this annual festival to have a
public breakfast in the great hall, when tables, at
the expense of the city, were covered with wines
and confections, and
the sovereign?s health
was drunk with acclaim,
the volleys of
the Town Guard
made the tall mansions
re-echo, and
the statue of King
Charles wasdecorated
with laurel leaves by
the Add CaZZants, as
the boys of Heriot?s
Hospital were named,
and who claimed this
duty as a prescriptive
right.
The Bank of Scotland,
incorporated by
royal charter in
1695, first opened for
business in a flat, or
$%or, of the Parliament
Close, with a
moderate staff of
clerks, and a paid-up
capital of only ten
thousand pounds ster-
Zing. The smallest
share which qny person
could hold in this
bank was LI,OOO
Scots, and the largest SIR WILLIAM FORBES, C ? PITSLLGO. (AfierKuy.)
appears thatthe king?s
statue was erected by the provost, magistrates, and
council, at the cost of A;z,580 Scots, the bill for
which seems to have come from Rotterdam. On the
Jast destruction of the old Parliament Close, by a
fire yet to be recorded, thc statue was conveyed for
.safety to the yard of the Calton Gaol, where it lay
for some years, till the present pedestal was erected,
in which are inserted two marble tablets, which
had been preserved among some lumber under the
Parliament House, and, from the somewhat fulsome
inscriptions thereon, seem to have belonged
to the first pedestal. Among the more homely
associations of the Parliament Close, the festivities
j6z0,ooo of the same
money. To lend money on heritable bonds and
other securities was the chief business of the infant
bank. The giving of bills of exchange-the
great business of private bankers-was, after much
deliberation, tried by the ? adventurers,? with aview
to the extension of business as far as possible. In
pursuance of this object, and to circulate their
notes through the realm, branch ofices were
opened at Glasgow, Dundee, Montrose, and Aberdeen,
to receive and pay out money, in the form
of inland exchange, by notes and bills. But
eventually the directors ?found that the exchange
trade was not proper for a banking company,?

... Claw. One of the shops next to the jeweller?s was, about the middle of last century, a tavern, kept ...

Book 1 p. 176
(Score 0.48)

son of Laurence, fourth Lord Oliphant, and father
of the sixth lord who bore that title. His elder
brother, the master, was one of the Ruthven conspirators
in 1582, and perished at sea when fleeing
from Scotland.
Beside it, a building of the same age was the
THE MARQUIS OF HUNTLY?S HOUSE, FROM THE CANONGATE
only a portion of the walls of which were standing
in 1847. It is supposed to have been the abode
of Archibald, ninth Earl of Angus, who, as nephew
and ward of the Regent Morton, was involved in
his ruin, and fled the realm to England, where he
became, as Godscroft tells US, the favourite ?of
John, second Earl of Tweeddale (who was among
the first to join the royal standard at Nottingham
in 1642), and who granted that barony to the
former in 1687, at a time when he, the earl, was
oppressed by debts which compelled him to sell
his whole estate of Tweeddale to the Duke of
Queensberry.
Northward of this edifice, and partly on the site
now occupied by the Chapel of Ease in New Street,
was the ancient residence of the Earl of Angus,
his uncle, but no lesse for his own sake.? Moreover,
he adds that he became the friend of Dudley,
Walsingham, and Sir Philip Sidney, who was then
writing his Arcadia,? which ? hee delighted much
to impart to Angus, and Angus took as much
pleasure to be partaker thereot?
Returning to Scotland, he became involved in
many troubles, and died in I 588-the victim, it was .
alleged, of sorcery, by the spells, says Godscroft, of
Barbara Napier, in Edinburgh, ?? wife to Archibald

... of Laurence, fourth Lord Oliphant, and father of the sixth lord who bore that title. His elder brother, the ...

Book 3 p. 8
(Score 0.48)

KING‘S STABLES, CASTLE BARNS, AND CASTLE HILL. 135
so generally placed on them, all afford tests as to the period of their erection, fully a6
definite and trustworthy as those that mark the progressive stages of the ecclesiastical
architecture of the Middle Ages. The earliest form of the crow-stepped gable presents a
series of pediments surmounting the steps, occasionally highly ornamented, and always
giving a rich effect to the building. Probably the very latest specimen of this, in Edinburgh,
is the h e old building of the Mint, in the Cowgate, which
bears the date 1574 over its principal entrance, while its other ornaments
axe similar to many of a more recent date. After the adoption
of the plain square crow-step, it seems still to have been held as an
important feature of the building ; in many of the older houses, the
arms or initials, or some other device of the owner, are to be found
on the lowest of them, even where the buildings are so lofty as to
place them almost out of sight. The dormer window, surmounted
with the thistle, rose, &c., and the high-peaked gable to the street,
are no less familiar features in our older domestic architecture.
Many specimens, also, of windows originally divided by stone mullions, and with lead
casements, still remain in the earliest mansions of the higher classes ; and in several of
these there are stone recesses or niches of a highly ornamental character, the use of which
has excited considerable discussion among antiquaries. A later form of window than
the last, exhibits the upper part glazed, and finished below with a richly carved wooden
transom, while the under half is closed with shutters, occasionally highly adorned on the
exterior with 8 variety of carved ornaments.
Towards the close of Charles 11,’s reign, an entirely new order of architecture was
adopted, engrafting the mouldings and some of the principal features of the Italian
style upon the forms that previously prevailed. The Golfers’ Land in the Canongate is
a good and early specimen of this. The gables are still steep, and the roofs of a high
pitch; and while _the front assumes somewhat of the character of a pediment, the crow:
steps are retained on the side gables ; but these features soon after disappear, and give way
to a regular pediment, surmounted with urns, and the like ornaments,-a very good specimen
of which remains on the south side of the Castle Hill, as well as others in various
parts of the Old Town. The 6ame district still presents good specimens of the old wooden
fronted lands, with their fore stairs and handsome inside turnpike from the fist floor, the
construction of which Maitland affirms to be coeval with the destruction of the extensive
forests of the Borough Muir, in the reign of James IV. We furnish a view of some other
remarkably picturesque specimens of the same style of building in this locality, recently
demolished to make way for the New College. All these various features of the ancient
domestic architecture of the Scottish Capital will come under review in the course of the
Work, in describing the buildings most worthy of notice that still remain, or have been
demolished during the present century.
f
Immediately below the Castle rock, on its south side, there exists an ancient appendage
of the Royal Palace of the Castle, still retaining the name of the King’s Stables, although
no hoof of the royal stud has been there for wellnigh three centuries. Thie district lies
without the line of the ancient city wall, and was therefore not only in an exposed sitna-
- -

... STABLES, CASTLE BARNS, AND CASTLE HILL. 135 so generally placed on them, all afford tests as to the ...

Book 10 p. 146
(Score 0.48)

210 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
of recusant members were set apart for the formation of a library, and a few years afterwards
their collection was greatly auapented by a gift of rare and costly books from
William, first Duke of Queensberry.
The Great Fire which we have described scattered and nearly destroyed the accumulation
of twenty years, and had it not been for the strenuous exertions of the keeper, Mr
John Stevenson, advocate, not one of the books would have been saved. The result,
however, was the removal of the library to safer and more permanent quarters below the
Parliament House, where it has ever since continued, though with extensive additions,
corresponding both in dimensions and style to its increasing importance. These lower
. apartments, dark and gloomy as they now look, when contrasted with the magnificent
libraries that have been erected above, are associated with names of no mean note in
. Scottish literature. There Thomas Ruddiman and David Hume successively presided in
the office of keeper, which post was also filled by Dr Irvine, the biographer of Buchanan,
and author of the “ Lives of Scottish Poets ; ” and within the same hall Dr Johnson was
received by some of the most eminent men of the last century, during his visit to Edin-
The creditors, who were baulked of their expected returns in the very midst of their
exertions, appear, from the documents already referred to, to have proceeded immediately
after the fire to dispose of the sites. In the accounts consequent on these latter transactions,
new characters appear, and among the rest Robert Mylne, the royal Master Mason,
who is due, “ for the area of the houses in the Parliament Closs,” a sum thus imposingly
.rendered in Scots money, %00,600, 00s. Od. No time appears to have been lost in rebuilding
the houses unexpectedly demolished. The Royal Exchange, which bore its name
cut in bold relief over the doorway, had on it the date 1700, and the adjacent buildings
towered again to an altitude of twelve stories towards the south, maintaining their preeminence
as the loftiest lands in Edinburgh. On the east side an open piazza, decorated
with pilasters and a Doric entablature, formed a covered walk for pedestriana, and the
whole produced a stately and imposing effect. The aristocratic denizens of the former
buildings returned again to the accommodation provided for them in the Parliament
Close, and with them, too, came the renters of ZaigA stories and garrets, to complete
the motley population of the Zands, as they were then subdivided in the Old Town
of Edinburgh. An amusing illustration of this is furnished in the trial, to which we
have already frequently referred, of William Maclauchlane, for his share in the Porteous
mob. He was footman to the Countess of Wemyss, who resided in a fashionable
flat in the .Parliament Close, and on the forenoon of the eventful 7th of September
1736, he was despatched on an errand to Craigiehall, from whence he did not return
till the evening. The libel of his Majesty’s Advocate sets forth, that having delivered
his message, “ the pannel went from my Lady Wemyss’ house to John Lamb’s alehouse
in the Bame stair,” from whence he issued shortly after in a jovial state, attracting everybody’s
notice by his showy livery during the stirring scenes of that busy night, in which
he mingled, perfectly oblivious of all that was being enacted around him, and running a
very narrow risk of being made the scapegoat of the imbecile magistracy, who only wanted
a decent pretext for sacrificing a score of blackguards to the manes of Porteous, and the
wrath of Queen Caroline.
’ burgh in 1773.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. of recusant members were set apart for the formation of a library, and a few years ...

Book 10 p. 229
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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 19%
one daughter still survive. John, the eldest, succeeded to the titles, and married,
in 1826, Louisa Bosville, eldest daughter of the late Lord Macdonald, by whom
he has issue one son. His lordship’s remaining six brothers and one sister
are all unmarried. James, the second son, was for some time Member of
Parliament for the county of Linlithgow. The Countess-Dowager died at
Leamington 1836.
No. LXXXII.
CHARLES HAY, ESQ., ADVOCATE,
TAKEN A SHORT TIME BIWORE HIS ELEVATION TO THE BENCH.
CHARLES HAY, son of James Hay, Esq. of Cocklaw, Writer to the Signet, was
born in 1747.’ After the usual preparatory course of education, he passed
advocate in 1768, having just attained the years of majority; but, unlike most
young practitioners, Hay had so thoroughly studied the principles of the law
‘‘ that he has been frequently heard to declare he was as good a lawyer at that
time as he ever was at any after period.” He soon became distinguished by his
strong natural abilities, as well as by his extensive knowledge of the profession, ,
which embraced alike the minutest forms of the daily practice of the Court and
the highest and most subtle points of jurisprudence. As a pleader he. was
very effective. His pleadings were never ornamental, but entirely free of
“ those little arts by which a speaker often tries to turn the attention of his
boy about twelve years of age, came into the room and sat beside his mother. The King asked the
Countess how many children she had ? On being answered by her ladyship that she had ten sons
and an infant daughter, his Majesty, either struck by the number of male children, or by the
beautiful and youthful appearance of the mother, exclaimed, “ Good God ! is it possible 2” After
breakfast, Lady Alicia, then an infant, was presented to his Majesty, by whom she was affectionately
kissed Thomas and Adrian, the two youngest sons, were next led into the dining-room, and presented
by the Earl to his royal guest. The king graciously received the little boys ; and raising
Adrian’s frock, took hold of his leg, saying, “ What a stout little fellow ! ” The child, thinking the
King was admiring his frock, held it up with both his hands, and cried, “ See, see ! ” His Najesw
was amused with the notion of the child, and said, “ Is that a new frock, my little man ? ” The
other sons of Lord Hopetoun were presented to the King in the drawing-room. During his Majesty’s
short visit at Hopetoun House, the honour of knighthood was conferred on Captain Adam Fergusson
and Mr. Henry Raeburn, the celebrated painter. Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the
weather, the lawns around the princely mansion presented a scene of a most animating description.
Great preparations had been made for the reception of his Majesty, and an immense concourse of
all ranks, including a body of his lordship’s tenantry on horseback, were assembled to greet their
sovereign. The band of Royal Archers, who acted as the King’s bodyguard, were in attendance,
under the command of the Earl of Elgin. The Earl of Hopetoun was the commander-general of this
ancient body, and acted as such on the day of his Majesty’s arrival at Holymod-House. As a
memorial of that event, they entreated the Earl to sit for his picture @ the dress which be wore on
the occasion. The painting was executed by Mr. John Watson, and has been hung up in the
Archers’ Hall.
He is said to have been descended from the Hay3 of Rannes, an ancient branch of the family
of Hay.

... SKETCHES. 19% one daughter still survive. John, the eldest, succeeded to the titles, and married, in ...

Book 8 p. 280
(Score 0.48)

West Church.] THE LOTHIAN ROAD. =37
towards Bruntsfield Links, had long been projected,
but owing to the objections raised by the
proprietors of many barns, byres, and sheds which
stood in the way, the plan could not be matured,
till after several years of trouble and speculation j
in length by twenty paces in breadth." This
scheme he concerted with address, and executed
with nautical promptitude It happened to be the
winter season, when many men were unemployed.
He had no difficulty in collecting several hundreds
ST. CUTHBERT'S CHURCH.
and when at last the proposal was about to be of these at the Kirkbraehcad upon the appointed
agreed to by the opposing parties, the broad and ' morning before sunrise, when he gave them all a
stately road was-to the surprise of the public and ' plentiful breakfast of porter, whisky, and bread and
mortification of the opposition-made in one day ! cheese, after which, just as the sun rose, he ordered
'' some to tear down' en-
John Clerk, Bart., of Pennicuik (an' officer: of't'hc ! dlosuresi others to unroof and demolish cottages,
in 1784). laid a bet with a friend to the effect I with to fill up the natural hollow (near the church-
" that he. would, between sunrise and sunset, ' yard gate) to the required height. The inhabitants,
execute the line of road, extending nearly a mile 1 dismayed at so vast a force and so summary a
It so happened that a gentleman, said to be! Sir. 1 th,e% ,to* set to, work
royal navy, who succeeded his father, Sir George, I and a considerahle portion to bring' earth where-
66

... Church.] THE LOTHIAN ROAD. =37 towards Bruntsfield Links, had long been projected, but owing to the ...

Book 3 p. 137
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Greyfriars Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371
guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved their
escape, but many died. All this, at the hands of their
own countrymen, these poor people had to endurethe
stubborn Scottish peasant, with his pride and
rectitude of heart, his tender, it might be weak and
ailing wife, with his infants and his aged parents.
to administer to the wants of the prisoners there
was one lady who was wont to come attended by
a young daughter possessed of considerable personal
attractions. Periodically they came to the iron gate
with food and raiment, collected among the charitable,
and between the young lady and one of the
A ROYAL EDINBURGH VOLUNTEER. (p?W7?J a Print Of tk Psriod.)
Some who signed a bond never to take up arms
against the Government were released ; others
found rest amid the graves on which they lay;
the remainder, to the number of two hundred and
fifty-seven, were sent to be sold as slaves in Barbadoes,
Jamaica, and New Jersey, but many were
drowned at sea
? From the gloom of this sad story there is shed
one ray of romance,? says Chambers, in his ?? Traditions.?
Among the sympathising people who dared
B6
younger captives an attachment sprang up.
Doubtless she loved him for the dangers he had
dared, and he loved her because she pitied them.
In happier days, long after, when their constancy
had been well tried by an exile which he suffered
in the plantations, this pair were married and settled
in Edinburgh, where they had sons and daughters.
A respectable elderly citizen,? adds Chambers,
?? tells me he is descended from them?
After the Duke of Albany and York came, as

... Church.] PERSECUTION OF THE COVENANTERS. 371 guards, and a few, driven almost mad, achieved ...

Book 4 p. 377
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BATTLE OF FLODDEN TO DEATH OF YAMES V. 45
ordained that the Baillies of the Cannongate garre sik like be done upon the said east
side.”
Although all the Parliaments during this reign assembled at Edinburgh, the Palace
of Holyrood was only the occasional residence of James V. Yet he seems to have
diligently continued the works begun here by his father, and tradition still assigns to
him, with every appearance of truth, the erection of the north-west towers of the Palace,
the only portion of the original building that has survived the general conflagration by
the English in the following reign. On the bottom of the recessed pannel of the north
tower, could be traced, about thirty years since, in raised Roman letters, gilt, the words,
. The last occurrence of local interest in the lifetime of this Monarch, is thus recorded
in the Diurnal of Occurrents :-“Upon the last day of Februar, their was ane certaine
of persones accusit for heresie in abbay kirk of Halyrudhous ; and thair was condempnit
twa blackfreris, ane Channon of Sanct Androis, the vicar of Dollour ; ane preist, and ane
lawit man that duelt in Stirling, were brynt the same day on the Castell Hill of
Edinburgh.”’ Thus briefly is recorded an occurrence, which yet is the pregnant forerunner
of events that crowd the succeeding pages of Scottish history, until the Stuart
race forfeited the throne.
Our subject does not require us to deal further with the character of James V., or the
general events of his reign. He died at Falkland on the 14th of December 1542, and
his body was thereafter conveyed to Edinburgh, where his faithful servitor and friend,
Sir David Lindsay, must have directed the mournful ceremony that laid his royal master
by the side of Queen Bhgdalene, his first young bride, in Holyrood Church. The
sumptuous display, that can neither lighten grief nor ward off death, attended, as usual,
on the last rites of the poet King. From the household books of the Cardinal Beaton,
we learn that he spent “for a manual at the King’s funeral, 10s.; for a mitre of white
damask, 42s.; for four mourning garments, S3, 18s. lOd.,” wherewith to officiate in
the services of the church, that committed the remains of his royal master to their final
resting-place.
Of the general manners of the age, considerable insight may be obtained from the acts
of the Parliaments held during this reign, regulating inn-keepers and travellers, bailies,
craftsmen, judges, and beggars, all of whom are severally directed in their callings, with
careful minuteness.
But the satires of Sir David Lindsay are still more pointed and curious in their
allusions to this subject. His Supplication to tAe Kingis grace in Contemptioun of Syde
Tail&, attacks a fashion that had already excited the satiric ire of Dunbar, as well as
the graver but less effectual censures of the Parliament ; and already, in thia early poem,
he begins to touch with sly humour on the excesses of the clergy, even while dealing with
this humble theme. Though bishops, he says,-with seeming commendation,-for the
dignity of their ofiice, have men to bear up their tails, yet that is no reason
-LACOBVS REX SCOTORVM.
That every lady of the land
Suld have hir hill 80 q d e trailland
1 Scota Acta, 12mo. vol. i. p. 248, ’ Diurnal of Occurrenb, p. 23.

... OF FLODDEN TO DEATH OF YAMES V. 45 ordained that the Baillies of the Cannongate garre sik like be done upon ...

Book 10 p. 49
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OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canonmills. 86
modation than external display, and yet is not
unsuited to the architecturally opulent district in
its neighbourhood. The society which founded it
had, by proprietary shares of E50 each, a capital
of L ~ z , g o o , capable of being augmented to AI 6,000.
Though similar in scope to the High School, it
was at first more aristocratic in its plan or princiciples,
which for a time rendered it less accessible
to children of the middle classes, and has a longer
period of study, and larger fees. There are a
rector, masters for classics, French, and German,
writing, mathematics, and English literature, and
every other necessary branch. The Academy was
incorporated by a royal charter from George IV.,
and is under the superintendence of a board of
fifteen directors, three of whom are elected annually
from the body of subscribers. The complete
course of instruction given extends over seven
years.
The institution, which possesses a handsome
public hall, a library, spacious class-rooms, and a
large enclosed play-ground, is divided into two
schools-the classical, adapted for boys destined
for the learned professions, or who desire to possess
a thorough classical training ; and the modem, intended
for such as mean to take civil or military
service, or enter on mercantile pursuits. In addition
to special professional subjects of study, the
complete course embraces every branch of knowledge
now recognised as necessary for a liberal
education.
Though the Academy is little more than half;
century old, yet so admirable has been the system
pursued here, and so able have been the teachers
in every department, that it has sent forth several
of the most eminent men of the present day.
Among them we may enumerate Dr. A. Campbell
Tait, Archbishop of Canterbury ; Bishop Anderson
of Rupert?s Land ; Sir Colin Blackburn, Justice of
the Queen?s Bench ; Professor Edmonstone Aytoun;
the late Earl of Fife; the Right Hon.
Mountstuart E. Grant-Duff, M.P. for Elgin, and
afterwards Governor of Madras.
Among those who instituted this Academy in
1832 were Sir Walter Scott, Lord Cockburn, Skene
of Rubislaw, Sir Robert Dundas, Bart., of Beechwood,
and many other citizens of distinction.
CHAPTER IX.
CANONMILLS AND INVERLEITH.
Canonmills-The Loch-Riots of &+-The Gymnasium-Tanfield Hall-German Church-Zmlogical Gardens-Powder Hall-Rosehank
Cemetery-Red Rraes-The Crawfords of Jordanhill-Bonnington-BEhop Keith-The Sugar Refinery--Pilrig-The Balfour Family-
Inverleith-Ancient Proprietors-The Tonri-The RocheidAld Lady Inverleith-General Crocket-Royal Botanical Gardens-Mr.
James MacNab.
THE ancient village of Canonmills lies within the
old Barony of Broughton, and owes its origin to
the same source as the Burgh of the Canoagate,
having been founded by the Augustine canons of
Holyrood, no doubt for the use of their vassals in
Broughton and adjacent possessions ; but King
David I. built for them, and the use of the inhabitants,
a mill, the nucleus of the future village,
which still retains marks of its very early origin,
though rapidly being absorbed or surrounded by
medern improvements. This mill is supposed to
have been the massive and enormously buttressed
edifice of which Wilson has preserved a view, at
the foot ofthe brae, near Heriot?s Hill.
It stood on the south side of the Water of
Leith, being driven by a lade diverted from the
former. By the agreement between the city and
the directors of Heriot?s Hospital, when the mills
were partly disposed of to the former, the city was
?bound not to prejudice the mills, but to allow
those resident in the Barony to repair to them, and
grind thereat, according to use and wont, and to
help them to ane thirlage, so far as they can, and
the same remain in their possession.?
The Incorporation of Bakers in the Canongate
were ?? thirled ? thither-that is, compelled to have
their corn ground there, or pay a certain sum.
About the lower end of the hollow, overlooked
by the Royal Crescent now, there lay for ages the
Canonmills Loch, where the coot and water-hen
built their nests in the sedges, as at the North Loch ? and Duddingston ; it was a fair-sued sheet of water, ? the last portion of which was only drained recently,
or shortly before the Gymnasium was formed.
In 1682 there was a case before the Privy
Council, when Alexander Hunter, tacksman of the
Canonmills, was pursued by Peter de Bruis for
demolishing a paper-mill he had erected there for
the manufacture of playing-cards, of which he had
a gift from the Council on 20th December, 1681,
? strictly prohibiting the importation of any such
cards,? and allowing him a most exorbitant powm

... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canonmills. 86 modation than external display, and yet is not unsuited to the ...

Book 5 p. 86
(Score 0.47)

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