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Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time

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358 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. looking burgh, full of crooked alleys, and rambling narrow wynds, scattered about in the most irregular and lawless fashion, and happily innocent as yet of the refinements of an Improvements’ Commission ; though the more gradual operations of time and changing tastes have swept away many curious features of the olden time. There is indeed an air of substantial business-like bustle and activity about its narrow unpretending thoroughfares, and dingy-looking counting-houses, that strangely contrasts with the gaudy finery of New Town trading. The London fopperies of huge plate-glass windows, and sculptured and decorated shop fronts, so much in vogue there, are nearly unknown among the burghers of Leith, The dealers are too busy about more important matters to trouble themselves with these new-fangled extravagancies, while their customers are much too knowing to be attracted by any such showy baits. The contrast indeed between the Scottish Capital and its Port is even more marked than that which distinguishes the courtly west end of London from its plebeian Wapping or White Chapel, and is probably, in all the most substantial sources of digereme, in favour of the busy little burgh : whose merchants conduct a large and important share of the trade of the North of Europe in their unpretending little boothies, while the shopkeeper of the neighbouring city magnifies the petty details transacted over his well-polished mahogany counter, and writes himself down mercdant accordingly.’ The principal street of Leith is the Kirkgate, a broad and somewhat stately thoroughfare, according to the prevalent proportions among the lanes and alleys of this close-packed little burgh. Time and modern taste have slowly, but very effectually, modified its antique features. No timber-fronted gable now thrusts its picturesque fapade with careless grace beyond the line of more staid and formal-looking ashlar fronts. Even the crow-stepped gables of the Rixteenth and fieventeenth centuries are becoming the exception ; and it is only by the irregularity which still pertains to it, aided by the few really antique tenements that remain unaltered, that it now attracts the notice of the curious visitor asthe genuine remains of the ancient High Street of the burgh. Some of these relics of former.times are well worthy the notice of the antiquary, while memorials of still earlier fabrics here and there meet the eye, and carry back the imagination to those stirring scenes in the history of this locality: when the Queen Regent and her courtiers and allies made it their stronghold and chosen place of abode ; or when, amid a more peaceful array, the fair Scottish Queen Mary, or the sumptuous Anne of Denmark, rode gaily through the street on their way to Holyrood. At the south-east angle of the old churchyard, one of these memorials meets the eye in the shape of an elegant Gothic pediment surmounting the boundary wall, and adorned with the Scottish Regalia, sculptured in high relief, with the initials J. R. 6 ; while a large panel below bears the Royal Arms and initials of Charles II., very boldly executed. These insignia of royalty are intended to mark the spot on which King James’s Hospital stood-a benevolent foundation which owed no more to the royal patron whose name it bore, than the confirmation by his charter in 1641 of a portion of those revenues that had been long before bestowed by the piety of private donors on the hospital of St Anthony, and the imposition of a duty on all wine brought into the port for the augmentation of its reduced funds. Here certain poor women were maintained, being presented The description given above, to a 5eat extent, no longer applies, aa the town haa 80 rapidly extended as to be now part of the City, and ia also not behind its great neighbour in the wealth of imposing shop fronts.
Volume 10 Page 393
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