358 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
looking burgh, full of crooked alleys, and rambling narrow wynds, scattered about in the
most irregular and lawless fashion, and happily innocent as yet of the refinements of an
Improvements’ Commission ; though the more gradual operations of time and changing
tastes have swept away many curious features of the olden time. There is indeed an air
of substantial business-like bustle and activity about its narrow unpretending thoroughfares,
and dingy-looking counting-houses, that strangely contrasts with the gaudy finery
of New Town trading. The London fopperies of huge plate-glass windows, and sculptured
and decorated shop fronts, so much in vogue there, are nearly unknown among the
burghers of Leith, The dealers are too busy about more important matters to trouble
themselves with these new-fangled extravagancies, while their customers are much too
knowing to be attracted by any such showy baits. The contrast indeed between the
Scottish Capital and its Port is even more marked than that which distinguishes the
courtly west end of London from its plebeian Wapping or White Chapel, and is probably,
in all the most substantial sources of digereme, in favour of the busy little burgh : whose
merchants conduct a large and important share of the trade of the North of Europe in
their unpretending little boothies, while the shopkeeper of the neighbouring city magnifies
the petty details transacted over his well-polished mahogany counter, and writes himself
down mercdant accordingly.’
The principal street of Leith is the Kirkgate, a broad and somewhat stately thoroughfare,
according to the prevalent proportions among the lanes and alleys of this close-packed
little burgh. Time and modern taste have slowly, but very effectually, modified its antique
features. No timber-fronted gable now thrusts its picturesque fapade with careless grace
beyond the line of more staid and formal-looking ashlar fronts. Even the crow-stepped
gables of the Rixteenth and fieventeenth centuries are becoming the exception ; and it is
only by the irregularity which still pertains to it, aided by the few really antique tenements
that remain unaltered, that it now attracts the notice of the curious visitor asthe genuine
remains of the ancient High Street of the burgh. Some of these relics of former.times are
well worthy the notice of the antiquary, while memorials of still earlier fabrics here and
there meet the eye, and carry back the imagination to those stirring scenes in the history
of this locality: when the Queen Regent and her courtiers and allies made it their stronghold
and chosen place of abode ; or when, amid a more peaceful array, the fair Scottish
Queen Mary, or the sumptuous Anne of Denmark, rode gaily through the street on their
way to Holyrood. At the south-east angle of the old churchyard, one of these memorials
meets the eye in the shape of an elegant Gothic pediment surmounting the boundary wall,
and adorned with the Scottish Regalia, sculptured in high relief, with the initials J. R. 6 ;
while a large panel below bears the Royal Arms and initials of Charles II., very boldly
executed. These insignia of royalty are intended to mark the spot on which King James’s
Hospital stood-a benevolent foundation which owed no more to the royal patron whose
name it bore, than the confirmation by his charter in 1641 of a portion of those revenues
that had been long before bestowed by the piety of private donors on the hospital of St
Anthony, and the imposition of a duty on all wine brought into the port for the augmentation
of its reduced funds. Here certain poor women were maintained, being presented
The description given above, to a 5eat extent, no longer applies, aa the town haa 80 rapidly extended as to be now
part of the City, and ia also not behind its great neighbour in the wealth of imposing shop fronts.