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PHE KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw).
OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
CHAPTER I.
THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS.
Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its Age-Altars-hfade Collegiate-The Prebendal Buildings--Ruined-The House of the Kirk of-Field-The
hfurder of Darnley-Robert Balfour, the Last Provost.
WE now come to the scene of one of the most
astounding events in European history-the spot
where Henry, King of Scotland, was murdered in
the lonely house attached to the Kirk-of-Field, one of
the many fanes dedicated to St. Mary in Edinburgh,
where their number was great of old.
When, or by whom, the church of St. Mary-inthe-
Fields was founded is alike unknown. In the
taxation of the ecclesiastical benefices in the archdeaconry
of Lothian, found in the treasury of
Durham, and written in the time of Edward I. of
England, there appears among the churches belonging
to the abbey of Holyrood, EccZesia Sand&
Mariiz in Cam&
This was beyond doubt what was at a later
period the collegiate church of St. Mary-in-the-
Fields, and the few notices concerning which are
very meagre ; but thus it must have existed in the
thirteenth century, when all the district to the south
07
of it was covered with oaks to the base of the hills
of Braid and Blackford. It took its name from
being completely in the fields, beyond the wall of
1450. In the view of the city engraved in 1544, it is
shown to have been a large cruciform church, with
a tall tower in the centre ; and this representation
of it is to a great extent repeated in a view found in
the State Paper Office (drawn after the murder of
Darnley), of which a few copies have been circulated,
and which shows its pointed windows and
buttresses.
Among the property belonging to the foundation
was a tenement at the foot of the modem Blair
Street, on the west side, devoted to the altar of St.
Katharine in this now defunct church ; and in the
? Inventory of Pious Donations,? preserved in the
Advocates? Library (quoted by Wilson), there is a
? mortification I? by Janet Kennedy, Lady Bothwell,
to the chaplain of the Kirk-of-Field of ?her fore

... KIRK-OF-FIELD. (Alto an Etching by /awes Skenc cf Rubirlaw). OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. CHAPTER I. THE KIRK OF ...

Book 5 p. 1
(Score 0.83)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound]
one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than
sufficed to purchase the site of the college-the
old Guise Palace, with its adjacent closes-and to
erect the edifice, while others were built at
Glasgow and Aberdeen.
Plans by W. H. Playfair, architect, were prepared
and adopted, after a public competition had
been resorted to, and the new buildings were at
once proceeded with. The foundation stone was
iaid on the 4th of June, 1846, by Dr. Chalmers,
~ The stairs on the south side of the quadrangle
lead to the Free Assembly Hall, on the exact site
of the Guise Palace. It was erected from designs
by David Bryce, at a cost of A7,000, which was
collected by ladies alone belonging to the Free
Church throughout Scotland.
The structure was four years in completion, and
was opened on the 6th of November, 1850,under the
sanction of the Commission of the Free General
Assembly, by their moderator, Dr. N. Paterson,
LIBRARY OF THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. (Fwm o P/wtozm#h by G. W. Wi&on and Co.)
exactly one year previous to the day which saw his
remains consigned to the tomb. The ultimate cost
was ;646,506 8s. Iod., including the price of the
ground, Ero,ooo.
The buildings are in the English collegiate style,
combining the common Tudor with somd of the later
Gothic They form an open quadrangle (entered
by a handsome groined archway), 165 feet from
east to west and 177 from south to north, including
on the east the Free High Church. The edifice
has two square towers (having each four crocketed
pinnacles), IZI feet in height, buttressed at the
corners from base to summit. There is a third
tower, 95 feet in height. The college contains
seven great class-rooms, a senate hall, a students'
hall, and a library, the latter adorned with a
statue of Dr, Chalmers as Principal, by Steel
61
who delivered a sermon and also a special address
to the professors and students. Subsequently, this
inaugural sermon and the introductory lectures
delivered on the same occasion to their several
classes by Professors Cunningham, Buchanan,
Bannerman, Duncan, Black, Macdougal, Fraser,
and Fleming, were published in a volume, as a
record of that event.
The constitution of this college is the same as
that of the Free Church colleges elsewhere. The
Acts of Assembly provide for vesting college
property and funds, for the election of professors,
and for the general management and superintendence
of college business. The college buildings
are vested in trustees appointed by the Church.
A select committee is also appointed bp the
j General Assembly, consisting of " eleven ministers

... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 97 The Mound] one persons ;61,ooo each, a sum which more than sufficed to purchase the ...

Book 3 p. 97
(Score 0.82)

,204 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
CHAPTER XXIIL
THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ.
The Black Turnpike-Bitter Receytion of Queen Mary-hmbie?s Bannrr-Mary in the Black Turnpike-The House of Fentonbarns-Its
Picturesque Appearance-The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574-? tllshop?s Land,? Town House of Archbishop Spottiswood-Its
various Tenants-Sir Stuart Thriepland -The Town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel-The Lodging of the Earls of Crawford-The
First Shop of Allan Ramsay-The Religious Feeling of the People-Anmm House-The First Shop of Constable and Co.-Manners and
Millar, Booksellers.
ON the south side of this great thoroughfare
and immediately opposite to the City Guard House,
stood the famous Black Turnpike. It occupied
the ground westward of the Tron church, and
now left vacant as the entrance to Hunter?s Square,
It is described as a magnificent edifice by Maitland,
and one that, if not disfigured by one of those
timber fronts (of the days of James IV.), would be
the most sumptuous building perhaps in Edinburgh.
But, like many others, it had rather a painful
history. [See view, p. 136.1
? A principal proprietor of this building,? says
Maitland, ?has been pleased to show me a deed
wherein George Robertson of Lochart, burgess of
F,dinburgh, built the said tenement, which refutes
the idle story of its being built by Kenneth 111.?
The above-mentioned deed is dated Dec. 6, 1461,
and, in the year 1508, the same author relates that
James IV. empowered the Edinburghers to farm or
let the Burghmuir, which they immediately cleared
of wood; and in order to encourage people to
buy this wood, the Town Council enacted that all
persons might extend the fronts of their houses
seven feet into the street, whereby the High Street
was reduced fourteen feet in breadth, and the
appearance of the houses much injured.
There is evidence that in the 16th century the
Black Turnpike had belonged to George Crichton,
Bishop of Dunkeld, in 1527, and Lord Privy Seal.
In 1567 it was the town mansion of the provost of
the city, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, Balgay,
and that ilk, ancestor of the Earls of Desmond in
Ireland. It was to this edifice that Mary Queen of
Scots was brought a prisoner, about nine in the
evening of Sunday the 15th of June, by the confederate
lords and their troops, after they violated
the treaty by which she surrendered to them at
Carberry Hill.
On the march towards the city the soldiers
treated Mary with the utmost insolence and indignity,
pouring upon her an unceasing torrent of
epithets the most opprobrious and revolting to a
female. Whichever way she turned an emblematic
banner of white taffety, representing the dead body
of the murdered Darnley, with the little king kneeling
beside it, was held up before her eyes, stretched
out between two spears. She wept; her young
heart was wrung with terrible anguish ; she uttered
the most mournful complaints, and could scarcely
be kept in her saddle. This celebrated but
obnoxious standard belonged to the band or
company of Captain Lambie, a hired soldier of the
Government, slain afterwards, in 1585, in a clan
battle on Johnston Moor. Instead of conveying
Mary to Holyrood, as Sir William Kirkaldy had
promised, in the name of the Lords, they led her
through the dark and narrow wynds of the crowded
city, surrounded by a fierce, bigoted, and petulant
mob, who loaded the air with hootings and insulting
cries. The innumerable windows of the lofty
houses, and the outside stair-heads -then the
distinguishing features of a Scottish street-were
crowded with spectators, who railed at her in
unison with the crowd below. Mary cried aloud
to all gentlemen, who in those days were easily
distinguished by the richness of their attire, and
superiority of their air-? I am your queen, your
own native princess; oh, suffer me not to be
abused thus !? ? But alas for Scottish gallantry,
the age of chivalry had passed away!? says the
author of ? Kirkaldy?s Memoirs,? whose authorities
are Calderwood, Melville, and Balfour. ?? Mary?s
face was pale from fear and grief; her eyes were
swollen with tears ; her auburn hair hung in disorder
about her shoulders ; her fair form was
poorly attired in a riding tunic; she was exhausted
with fatigue, and covered with the summer
dust of the roadway, agitated by the march of so
many men; in short, she was scarcely recognis
able; yet thus, like some vile criminal led to
execution, she was conducted to the house of Sir
Simon Preston of Craigmillar. The soldiers of
the Confederates were long of passing through the
gates; the crowd was so dense, and the streets
were so narrow, that they filed through, man
by man.?
At the Black Turnpike she was barbarously
thrust into a small stone chamber, only thirteen
feet square by eight high, and locked up like a
felon-she, the Queen of Scotland, the heiress of
England, and the dowager of France! It was
then ten o?clock ; the city was almost -dark, but
fierce tumult and noise reigned without
And this was the queen of whom the scholarly

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. CHAPTER XXIIL THE HIGH STREET (continuedJ. The Black Turnpike-Bitter ...

Book 2 p. 204
(Score 0.82)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 85
dated 10th February 1766, resigning his charge, in which he expresses himself
in the following terms :-
“I now inform you, as Moderator, that I entirely give up my charge of the High Church in this town,
and the care of the flock belonging to it, into the bands of the Presbytery. They know not how far
I am advanced in life, who see not that a house for worship, so very large aa the High Church, and
commonly so crowded too, must be very unequal to my strength ; and this burden was made more
heavy by denying me a Session to assist me in the common concerns of the parish, which I certainly
had a title to. But the load became quite intolerable, when, by a late unhappy process, the just and
natural right of the common Session waa wrested from us, which drove away from scting in it twelve
men of excellent character.”
After stating these and other grievances to the Moderator of the Presbytery,
he further proceeds :-
‘‘I would earnestly beg of my reverend brethren to think that this change in my condition, and
the charge I have now accepted, makes no change in my former creed, nor in my cordiatregard to the
constitution and interest of the Church of Scotland, which I solemnly engaged to support more than
thirty years ago, and hope to do so while I live. At the same time, I abhor persecution in every
form, and that abuse of Church power of late, which to me appears inconsistent with humanity-with
the civil interests of the nation-and destrnctive of the ends of our office as ministers of Christ.”
In consequence of this letter, and his connecting himself with the Relief
Presbytery, Mr. Baine was cited to appear before the General Assembly, 29th
May 1766. Having cornpeared, and been heard at considerable length, in an
elaborate and keen defence, he was declared by the Assembly to be no longer a
minister of the Church of Scotland. Immediately after his deposition, Mr. Baine
published a pamphlet, entitled “ Memoirs of Modern Church Reformation ; or
the History of the General Assembly, 1766, with a brief account and vindication
of the Presbytery of Relief.” In this publication, consisting of letters to a
reverend friend, he gave an amusing account of the procedure of the supreme
ecclesiastical court in his case, and indulged in some acrimonious remarks on the
conduct of the leading members of the moderate party. The pamphlet, now
scarce, and indeed almost out of sight, is a curious and interesting document.
Mr. Baine had in the meantime entered on the duties of his new charge.
The Chapel in South College Street, which was the first in Edinburgh belonging
to the Relief Presbytery, was opened for public worship on Sabbath, 12th
January 1766. At that period the city did not extend so far south as it does
now, South College Street being then a portion of Nicolson’s Park, one of the
suburbs. To this chapel he was inducted by the Rev. Mr. Gillespie, late of
Carnock, on the 13th of the following month, only three days subsequent to
the date of his letter to the Presbytery of Paisley resigning his charge of the
High Church. It has been remarked by one of his biographers, that when he
took this step he did not contemplate an entire separation from the Established
Church ; and that, in evidence of his considering himself still belonging to its
communion, he is said, after his admission to South College Street Chapel, to
have conducted his new congregation to the neighbouring Church of Old Greyfriars
(at that time under the pastoral care of his old friend the venerable Dr.
Erskine), in order to partake of the sacrament of the Lord‘s Supper. The
Establishment, however, viewed the matter in a different light; and various

... SKETCHES. 85 dated 10th February 1766, resigning his charge, in which he expresses himself in the ...

Book 9 p. 114
(Score 0.82)

28 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
No. x.
A SLEEPY CONGREGATION.
THE wit of this Print consists in representing a set of citizens, well known
as little addicted to church-going, listening to a discourse from the most evangelical
clergyman in the city, in a place of worship whose ordinary congregation
was noted above all others for their ultra-Presbyterianism. The clergyman is
the celebrated Dr. Webster, the precentor John Campbell, the place of worship
the Tolbooth Church, being that in which Dr. Webster was the stated clergyman.
The church was the south-west portion of St. Giles’s, and was so designated
from its having been used in the reign of James VI. as a town-house, the
supreme civil court being usually, and the Parliament occasionally, held in it.
The congregation in Dr. Webster’s time were known by the appellation of ‘‘ the
Tolbooth Whigs,” as making the nearest approach in practice and doctrine to
the severe spirits of the days of Cameron and Cagill. It may well be supposed
with what mirth the wit of Mr. Kay would be hailed by those to whom the
character of both the real and the imaginary congregation was familiar.
Dr. Alexander Webster was the son of an equally distinguished preacher,
who had suffered in the persecuting times, and was afterwards clergyman in this
very church.l Born in 1707, and educated to his father’s profession, he was,
at an early age, ordained to the charge of Culross in Fife, where he made himself
so remarkable for his eloquence, his piety, and generally for the fidelity,
activity and diligence, with which he discharged the duties of the pastoral
office, that he received a unanimous call, four years after his first ordination,
from the congregation of the Tolbooth Church, to which charge he was inducted
on the 2d June 1737.
In this situation, which he held for the long period of forty-seven years, Dr.
Webster continued to practise, on a scale extending with his opportunities, all
those useful and amiable qualities which had distinguished him at the outset of
The elder Webster was asserted by the Jacobite8 to be mad. There is a curious “Godlie
Ballad,” lately privately printed from a MS. in the Advocates’ Library, of which he is the subject,
and in which he is most severely handled. It commences-
‘( Great Meldrum is gone, let Webster succeed,
A rare expounder of Scripture and creed,
Who’s learning is nonsense, who’a temper is bad,
It’s predestination that made him so mad
By algebra he makes it appear to be true,
Three deils and a half possest e-verie sow.
Though his head be light, hia carcass is heavy,
His bellie a midden of sack, flesh, and gravie,” etc. etc. etc.
He died May 17, 1720.

... BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. No. x. A SLEEPY CONGREGATION. THE wit of this Print consists in representing a set of ...

Book 8 p. 36
(Score 0.82)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 389
During his residence in Holland, I&. Davidson was licensed to preach the
gospel according to the Presbyterian form ; and his first sermon was delivered
at Amsterdam. In 1771, his father having been translated to Stirling, Mr.
Davidson was ordained to the parish of Inchture, where he remained only two
years, having in 1773 been called to the Outer High Church of Glasgow;
from thence he was transferred to Lady Yester's Church, Edinburgh ; and again
translated to the Tolbooth Church in 1785.
Dr. Davidson was a sound, practical, and zealous preacher ; and, much as he
was esteemed in the pulpit, was no less respected by his congregation and all
who knew him, for those domestic and private excellences which so much
endear their possessor to society.
To all public chanties he contributed largely, and was generally among the
fist to stimulate by his example. Even when his income was circumscribed, a
tenth part of it was regularly devoted to the poor ; and when he subsequently
succeeded to a valuable inheritance, the event seemed only to elevate him in
proportion a.s it placed within his reach the means of extending the range of his
charities.
Another amiable trait in the character of Dr. Davidson was the interest which
he took in the success of the students of divinity, with whom circumstances
might bring him into contact. To such as he found labouring under pecuniary
disadvantages his hand was always open; and there are many respectable
ministers in the church who can bear testimony to his generous and fatherly
attentions. In religious matters, and in the courts connected with the church,
he took a sincere interest; but was by no means inclined to push himself
prominently before the public. In cases of emergency, or when he conceived
that duty called him, none could be more resolute or firm of purpose. A
characteristic instance of this is related in the funeral sermon preached in the
Tolbooth Church, on the demise of Dr. Davidson, by the Rev. George Muirhead,
D.D., minister of Cramond. " He had been for some time in a valetudinary
state, and went very little from home; and he was so unwell that day,
that he resolved not to attend the meeting of Presbytery. But conceiving
it to be his duty (when he understood that there was to be some discussion
about projected alterations in the churches contained in the building of
St. Giles's) to attend, even at the risk of injuring his health, he came forward,
and, in a speech of some length, in which he alluded to his own situation as
about to leave the world, so as to have no personal interest in the projected
changes, and in which he declared himself not unfriendly to building churches
in the New Town, and to repairing and ornamenting St. Giles's, he earnestly
remonstrated against diminishing the number of churches in the Old Town,
proving that the number of churches there was altogether inadequate for the
number of its inhabitants ; and that it was not to be supposed that the class
who inhabited the houses of the Old Town could get accommodation in the
churches built or building in the New Town. It was very affecting, and at the
same time gratifying, to behold the venerable father of the Presbytery thus

... SKETCHES. 389 During his residence in Holland, I&. Davidson was licensed to preach the gospel ...

Book 8 p. 542
(Score 0.81)

302 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd.
In 1650 it was used as a hospital for the wounded
soldiers of General Leslie?s army, after his repulse
of Cromwell?s attack on Edinburgh. The building
was decorated with the city arms, and many carved
devices on the pediments of its dormer windows,
while above the doorway was the legend-GoD .
BLIS . THIS. WARK . 1619.
In February, 1696, Fountainhall reports a
?? Reduction pursued by the town of Edinburgh
against Sir William Binny (ex-Provost) and other
partners of the linen manufactory, in Paul?s Work,
of the tack set them in 1683. Insisted, that
this house was founded by Thos. Spence, Bishop
of Aberdeen, in the reign of James II., for discipline
acd training of idle vagabonds, and dedicated
to St. Paul; and by an Act of Council in 1626,
was destinate and mortified for educating boys in a
woollen manufactory ; and this tack had inverted
the original design, contrary to the sixth Act of
Parl. I 633, discharging the sacrilegious inversion of
all pious donations.? Sir William Binny, Knight,
was Provost of the city in 1675-6. It bearsa prominent
place in Rothiemay?s map, and stood partly
within the Leith Wynd Port. In 1779 it was occupied
by a Mr. Macdowal, ?the present proprietor,?
says Arnot, ?who carries on in it an extensive
manufacture of broad cloths, hardly inferior to the
English.? The whole edifice was swept away by
the operations of the North British Railway; and
two very ancient keys found on its site were
presented in 1849 to the Museum of Antiquities.
It was?at the foot of this wynd that, in February,
1592, John Graham, a Lord of Session, was slain
in open day, by Sir James Sandilands of Calder,
and others, not one of whom was ever tried or
punished for the outrage.
By an Act of the seventh Parliament of James
V., passed in 1540, the magistrates were ordained
to warn all proprietors of houses on the west side
of Leith Wynd that were ruinous, to repair or rebuild
them within a year and a day, or to sell the
property to those who could do so; and if no one
would buy them, it was lawful for the said magistrates
to cast down the buildings, ?and with the
stuffe and stanes thereof, bigge ane honest substantious
wall, fra the Porte of the Nether-bowto
the Trinity College ; and it shall not be lawful in
tyme cumming, to any manner of person to persew
them, nor their successoures therefore. . . . . And
because the east side of the said wynd pertains to
the Abbot and Convente of Holyrude House, it is
ordained that the baillies of the Canongate garre
siklike be done upon the said east side,? &c.
The line ot this wall on the west side is distinctly
.
shown in Rothiemay?s map of 1647, and also in
Edgar?s plan of Edinburgh. In both the east side
presents a row of closely-built houses, extending
from the head of the Canongate to the site of the
Leith Wynd Port, at Paul?s Work.
In January, 1650, ?John Wilsone, tailyour, in
St. Marie Wynd, and John Sinclere, dag-maker
(i.e., pistol-maker) in Leith FTynd,? were punished
as false witnesses, in a plea between James Anderson,
merchant in Calder, and John Rob in Easter
Duddingston, for which they were sentenced by the
Lords in Council and Session to be set upon the
Tron, with a placard announcing their crime to the
people pinned on the breast of each, and to have
thair eares nailed to the Trone, be the space of
ane hour.?
On the Leith Wynd Port, as on others, the
quarters of criminals were displayed. In September,
1672, the Depute of Gilbert Earl of
Errol (High Constable of Scotland) sentenced
James Johnstone, violer, who had stabbed his wife,
to be hanged, ?? and to have his right hand, which
gave the stroak, cut off, and affixed upon Leithwind
Port, and ordained the magistrats of Edinburgh
to cause put the sentence to execution upon
the 9th of that month.?
In February, 1854, the wall of James the Fifth?s
time, on the west side of the wynd gave way, and
a vast portion of it, which was about twenty feet
high and four feet thick, fell with a dreadful crash,
smashing in the doors and windows on the oppm
site side, and blocking the whole of the steep
narrow thoroughfare, and burying in its dibris four
children, two of whom were killed on the instant.
and two frightfully mangled.
Its fall was supposed to have been occasioned
by a new wall, seven feet in height, raised upon
its outer verge, to form the outer platform in front
of a building known as St. Andrew?s Hall, and
afterwards the Training Institute of the Scottish
Episcopal Society.
As St. Mary?s Street, which lies in a line with
this wynd, is in a direct line also from the Pleasance,
to render the whole thoroughfare more completely
available, it was deemed necessary by the
Improvement Trustees to make alterations in Leith
Wynd, by forming Jeffrey Street, which takes a,
semccircular sweep, from the head of the Canongate
behind John Knox?s house and church,
onwards to the southern end of the North Bridge.
Thus the whole of the west side of Leith Wynd
and its south end have disappeared in these operations.
One large tenement of great antiquity, and
known as the cc Happy Land,? long the haunt of
the most lawless characters, has disappeared, and

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. In 1650 it was used as a hospital for the wounded soldiers of General ...

Book 2 p. 302
(Score 0.8)

196 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street.
Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through
the body, and slew him on the spot.
Stewart fled from the city, and of him we hear
no more ; but the Privy Council niet twice to consider
what should be done now, for all the Douglases
were taking arms to attack the Stewarts of
Ochiltree. Hence the Council issued imperative
orders that the Earl of Morton, James Commendator
of Melrose, Sir George and Sir Archibald
Douglas his uncles, William Douglas younger of
Drumlanrig, Archibald Uouglas of Tofts, Sir James
Dundas of Arniston, and others, who were breathing
vengeance, should keep within the doors of
their dwellings, orders to the same effect being
issued to Lord Ochiltree and all his friends.
? There is a remarkable connection of murders
recalled by this shocking transaction,? says a historian.
?? Not only do we ascend to Torthorwald?s
slaughter of Stewart in 1596, and Stewart?s deadly
prosecution of Morton to the scaffold in 1581 ; but
William Stewart was the son of Sir William Stewart
who was slain by the Earl of Bothwell in the Blackfriars
Wynd in 1588.?
A carved marble slab in the church of Holyrood,
between two pillars on the north side, still marks
the grave of the first lord, who took his title from
the lonely tower of Torthonvald on the green brae,
between Lockerbie and Dumfries. It marks also
the grave of his wife, Elizabeth Carlyle of that ilk,
and bears the arms of the house of Douglas,
quartered with those of Carlyle and Torthorwald,
namely, beneath a ch2f charged with three pellets,
a saltire proper, and the crest, a star, with the inscription
:-
? Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord Jarnes Dovglas, Lord
of Cairlell and Torthorall, vlm maned Daime Eliezabeth
Cairlell, air and heretrix yalof; vha vas slaine in Edinburghe
ye xiiii. day of Ivly, in ye zeier of God 1608-vas slain in
48 ze.
The guide daily reads this epitaph to hundreds
of visitors ; but few know the series of tragedies of
which that slab is the closing record.
In the year 1705, Archibald Houston, Writer to
the Signet in Edinburgh, was slain in the High
Street. As factor for the estate of Braid, the property
of his nephew, he had incurred the anger of
Kennedy of Auchtyfardel, in Lanarkshire, by failing
to pay some portion of Bishop?s rents, and Houston
had been ?put to the horn? foithis debt. On the
20th March, 1705, Kennedy and his two sons left
their residence in the Castle Hill, to go to the usual
promenade of the time, the vicinity of the Cross.
They met Houston, and used violent language, to
: which he was not slow in retorting. Then Gilbert
Kennedy, Auchtyfardel?s son, smote him on the
L. I. D. E. C.?
face, while the idlers flocked around them. Blows
with a cane were exchanged, on which Gilbert Kennedy
drew his sword, and, running Houston through
the body, gave him a mortal wound, of which he
died. He was outlawed, but in time returned
home, and succeeded to his father?s estate. According
to Wodrow?s ? Analecta,? he became morbidly
pious, and having exasperated thereby a
servant maid, she gave him some arsenic with his
breakfast of bread-and-milk, in 1730, and but for
the aid of a physician would have avenged the
slaughter gf Houston near the Market Cross in
1705.
One of the last brawls in which swords were
drawn in the High Street occurred in the same
year, when under strong external professions of
rigid ?Sabbath observance and morose sanctity of
manner there prevailed much of secret debauchery,
that broke forth at times. On the evening of the
2nd of February there had assembled a party in
Edinburgh, whom drinking and excitement had so
far carried away that nothing less than a dance in
the open High Street would satisfy them. Among
the party were Ensign Fleming of the Scots
Brigade in the Dutch service, whose father, Sir
James Fleming, Knight, had been Lord Provost in
1681 ; Thomas Barnet, a gentleman of the Horse
Guards ; and John Galbraith, son of a merchant in
the city. The ten o?clock bell had been tolled in
the Tron spire, to warn all good citizens home;
and these gentlemen, with other bacchanals, were
in full frolic at a pzrt of the street where there was
no light save-such as might fall from the windows
of the houses, when a sedan chair, attended by two
footmen, one of whom bore a lantern, approached.
In the chair was no less a personage than David
Earl of Leven, General of the Scottish Ordzance,
and member of the Privy Council, proceeding on
his upward way to the Castle of which he was
governor. It was perilous work to meddle with
such a person in those times, but the ensign and his
friends were in too reckless a mood to think of
consequences; so when Galbraith, in his dance
reeled against one of the footmen, and was warned
off with an imprecation, Fleming and his friend of
the Guards said, ? It would be brave sport to overturn
the sedan in the mud.? At once they assailed
the earl?s servants, and smashed the lantern. His
lordship spoke indignantly from his chair ; then
drawing his sword, Fleming plunged it into one
of the footmen ; but he and the others were overpowered
and captured by the spectators.
The young ?rufflers,? on learning the rank of
the man they had insulted, were naturally greatly
alarmed, and Fleming dreaded the loss of his corn
?

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGR, [High Street. Torthorwald could defend himself, ran him through the body, and slew him ...

Book 2 p. 196
(Score 0.8)

Holyrood.
THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57
troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the
abbey, which in the interval had been completely
repaired, and their proceedings are thus recorded
by one of themselves, Patten, in his account of
the expedition into Scotland :-?? Thear stood to the
westward, about a quarter of a mile from our
campe, a monasterie; they call it Hollyroode Abbey.
brought to the abbey by Abbot Bellenden were
?? the pet bellis and the gret brasin fownt.?
During the civil wars in the time of Charles I.
this relic was converted into money by the Puritans,
and in all probability was utterly destroyed.
After the battle of Pinkie, in 1547, the English
As touching the moonkes, becaus they wear gone,
These repeated destructions at the hands of n
wanton enemy, rather than any outrages by the Reformers,
were the chief cause that now we find
nothing remaining of the church but the fragment
of one tower and the shattered nave ; though much
. they put them to their pencions at large.?
sioners, making first theyr visitacion there, they
found the moonkes all gone, but the church and
mooch parts of the house well covered with leacie.
Soon after thei pluct of the leade and had down
the bels, which wear but two, and, according to the
statute, did somewhat hearby disgrace the hous.

... THE ABBEY PILLAGED. 57 troops retnrned to complete the destruction of the abbey, which in the ...

Book 3 p. 57
(Score 0.79)

92 MEMORIALS .OF EDINBURGH.
of St Giles as its Cathedral. The new
service-book, which had been expressly prepared for the use of the Scottish Church,
was, after considerable delay, produced in the public services of the day, on Sunday,
23d July 1637.
In St Giles’s Church, the Dean ascended the reading-desk, arrayed in his surplice, and
opened the service-book. The church was crowded on this memorable occasion, with the
Lord Chancellor, the Lords of the Privy Council, the Judges and Bishops, as well as a vast
multitude of the people.’ No sooner did the Dean commence the unwonted service, than
the utmost confusion and uproar prevailed.
The service being at a pause, the Bishop,
from his seat in the gallery, called to him
to proceed to the Collect of the day.
“ De’il colic the wame 0’ thee I ” exclaimed
Jenny Geddes, as the Dean was preparing
-- to proceed with the novel formulas; and,
hurling the cutty stool, on which she
sat, at his head, ‘( Out,” cried she, “thou
false thief I dost thou say mass at my Jug?”
Dr Lindsay, the Bishop of Edinburgh, now attempted to quell the tumult; he ascended
the pulpit, and reminded the people of the sanctity of the place ; but this only increased
their violence. The Archbishop of St Andrews and the Lord Chancellor interfered with
as little effect; and when the Magistrates at length succeeded, by flattery and threats, in
clearing the church of the most violent of the audience, they renewed their attack from
the outside, and assaulted the church with sticks and stones, shouting meanwhile, Pape,
Pape, Antichrist, pull Aim down! The Bishop was assaulted by them on his leaving the
church ; and, with great difficulty, succeeded in reaching his house in the High Street.
The access to the first floor was, according to the old fashion, still common in that locality,
by an outside stair. As he was endeavouring to ascend this, one of the rabble seized his
gown, and nearly pulled him backward to the street. An old song is believed to have
been written in allusion to this affray, of which only one verse, referring to this scene, has
been preserved :-
The consequences of his efforts are well known.
---------
Put the gown upon the bishop,
That’s his miller‘sdue 0’ haveship;
Jenny Geddes was the gossip,
Put the gown upon the bishop.
The poor Bishop at length reached the top of the stair; but there, when he flattered
himself he was secure of immediate shelter, he found, to his inconceivable vexation, that
the outer door was locked; and he had again to turn round and try, by his eloquence, to
mollify the wrath of his unrelenting assailants. Often did he exclaim, in answer to their
reproaches, that (( he had not the wyte of it,” but all in vain ;-he was hustled down again
to the street, and was only finally rescued, when in danger of his life, by the Earl of
1 Maitland, p. 71. ’ D. Laing, spud Carlyle’s Cromwell, vol. i. p. 137.
VIGNETTE-Jenny Qeddea’s Stool.

... MEMORIALS .OF EDINBURGH. of St Giles as its Cathedral. The new service-book, which had been expressly prepared ...

Book 10 p. 100
(Score 0.79)

184 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Broughton.
been placed along both sides of a road that ran
east and west; those on the south being more
detached, spread away upward nearly to York
Place. The western end of the hamlet was demolished
when the present Broughton market
was constructed. From that portion, which had
been a kind of square, a path led through the
fields, where now London Street stands, to Canonmills.
One by one the cottages have disappeared, in
their rude construction, with forestairs and loopbuilding
with a graceful spire 180 feet high. It
was erected on the site of an ancient quarry,
1859-61, after designs by J. F. Rocheid, at the
cost of ;613,000, and is in a mixed later English
and Tudor style.
Heriot?s school, also on the west side of the
street, is one of the elementary institutions which
the governors of George Heriot?s Hospital were
empowered by Act of Parliament to erect from
their surplus revenues., It is attended by about
3,400 boys and girls, and rises from a spacious and
BROUGHTON BURN, 1850. From a Dmwiw by William Ckanniag, iff tkt hssessim of Dr. 3. A, .??,,+,.)
hole windows, contrasting strongly with the new
and fashionable streets that have replaced them.
In the modern Broughton Street is a plain Ionic
edifice, long used as a place of worship by the
disciples of Edward Irving, and near it, at the
south-east angle of Albany Street,.-the Independent
church was built in 1816, at a cost of A4,000, and
improved in 1867 at a cost of more than A200; a
plain and unpretending edifice.
The Gaelic church, which adjoins the Independent
church, is the old Catholic Apostolic,
which was bought in 1875 for about &~,ooo, improved
for about _f;2,000, and opened in October
1876.
SL Mary?s Free church is a beautiful Gothic
airy arcade, under which they can play in wet
weather.
At the south-west corner of Broughton Place is
St. James?s Episcopal chapel, which, in architecture
externally, is assimilated with the houses of the
street. It was built in 1829, and has attached to
it, on the north, a neat school, built in 1869.
Fronting Broughton Place, and at the eastern end
thereof, stands the United Presbyterian church,
built in 1821, at the cost of A7,ogg. It is a
spacious edifice, with a very handsome tetrastyle
Doriciportico, and underwent repairs in 1853 and
1870, at the united cost of A4,ooo. It is chiefly
remarkable as the scene of the ministrations of the
late Dr. John Brown.

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Broughton. been placed along both sides of a road that ran east and west; those on ...

Book 3 p. 184
(Score 0.79)

1230 by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters
named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon
the monks a royal residence as their abode.
The church built by Alexander was a large cruufsrm
edifice with a central rood-tower and lofty
spire. It was renowned for king the scene of the
SIR JAMES PALSHAW, BART., AND H.m. LIEUTENANT OP EDINBURGH.
(Fmm a Photograph ay 3~ha Meffat.)
bishop of Glasgow and Lord High Chancellor,
fled from the Douglases during the terrible street
conflict or tulzie in 1519, and, as Pitscottie records,
was dragged ? out behind the altar, and his rocki:
riven aff him, and had been slake,? had not Gavin
Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, interceded for him:
in the realm, summoned in 1512 by the Pipal
Legate, Cardinal Bagimont, who presided. In
this synod, says Balfour, all ecclesiastical benefices
exceeding forty pounds per annum were taxed in
the payment of ten pounds to the Pope by way of
pension, and to the King of Scotland such a tax as
he felt disposed to levy. This valuation, which
is still known by the name of Bagimont?s Roll,
was made thereafter the standard for taxing the
Scottish ecclesiastics at the Vatican.
It was to this church that James Beaton, Archcrate
bishop.? And here we may remark that the
Scottish word fulzie, used by us so often, is derived
from the French t&ifi--n; to confuse, or to mix
The monastery was destroyed by an accidental
fire in 1528, but the church would seem to have
been uninjured by the view of it in 1544, though
no doubt it would suffer, like all the others in the
city, at the hands of the English in that year.
In 1552 the Provost and Council ordered Alex.
Park, city treasurer, to deliver to ?the Dene of
Gild x li., that he may thairwith pay the Blak

... by King Alexander II., and in its earliest charters named Mansio Re@, as he had bestowed upon the monks a ...

Book 4 p. 285
(Score 0.79)

305 Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX
Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland
in the train of Mary of Guise-the last Provost of
Trinity, in 1585, sold all the remaining rights that
he had in the foundation, which James VI. confirmed
by charter two years afterwards. When the
old religion was abolished, the revenues of the
church amounted to only A362 Scots yearly.
Its seal, Scotland and Gueldres quarterly, is
beautifully engraved among the Holyrood charters.
In May, 1592, Sophia Ruthven, the young Duchess
of Lennox, was buried with great solemnity at the
east end of the church. She wss a daughter of the
luckless Earl of Gowrie, who died in 1584 andwas
forcibly abducted from a house in Easter Wemyss,
where she had been secluded to secure her from
the violence of the Duke?s passion. But he carried
to Parliament for assistance, to enforce the payment
of his rents in Teviotdale.
In June, 1526, its Provost sat in Parliament. In
1567 the Earl of Moray, then Regent of Scotland,
gave to Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, then
Provost of the City, the Trinity College church with
all that belonged to it ; and the latter bestowed it
on the city. Robert Pont-an eminent churchman,
judge, and miscellaneous writer, the son of John de
18th of December, 1596, by her will, dated 9th of
that month, bequeathed IOO merks to the Trinity
College church, for a ?burial1 place there.
The church and other prebendal buildings
suffered with the other religious houses in the city
during the tumults of the Reformation, and, according
to Nicoll, in later years, at the hands of Cromwell?s
sordiers. While trenching the edifice, seeking
for the remains of the Queen, those of many others,
all Iong before violated and disturbed, were found,
together with numbers of bullocks? horns, and an
incredible quantity of sheep-head bones, and fmgments
of old Flemish quart bottles, the de?bris
doubtless of the repasts of the workmen of 1462 ;
and every stone in the building bore those marks
with which all freemasons are familiar.
~ her OE on his own horse in the night, and married i her in defiance of king and kirk. This was on
the 19th of April, 1591, consequently she did not
long survive her abduction.
Lady Jane Hamilton, youngest daughter of the
Duke of Chatelherault, and Countess of the Earl of
Eglinton, from whom she was divorced, in consequence
of the parties standing in the fourth degree
of consanguinity, who died at Edinburgh on the

... Leith Wynd.1 THE DUCHESS OF LENNOX Pont, an illustrious Venetian who came to Scotland in the train of Mary of ...

Book 2 p. 305
(Score 0.79)

256 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
sion opposite to the church of St. Ninian, but is
now rebuilt into a modern edifice in Cobourg Street.
In Robertson?s map, depicting Leith with its
fortifications, 1560 (partly based upon Greenville
Collins?s, which we have reproduced on p. 176),
the church of Nicholas is shown between the sixth
and seventh bastions, as a cruciform edifice, with
choir, nave, and transepts, measuring about 150 feet
in length, by 80 feet across the latter, and distant
only IOO feet from the Short Sand, or old sea margin.
the patron of seamen,? says Robertson, ?we may
infer that Leith at a very early period was a sea
St. Nicholas, the confessor, was a native of Lycia,
who died in the year 342, according to the Bollandists.
He was assumedas the patron of Venice
and many other seaports, and is usually represented
with an anchor at his side and a ship in the background,
and, in some instances, as the patron of
commerce, In Mrs. Jameson?s ?Sacred and
port town.?
ST. NINIAN?S CHURCHYARD.
The church, or chapel, with the hospital of
St. Nicholas, is supposed to have been founded
at some date later than the chapel of Abbot Balhntyne,
as the reasons assigned by him for building
it seemed to imply that the inhabitants were
without any accessible place of worship ; but when
or by whom it was founded, the destruction of
neatly all ecclesiastical records, at the Reformation,
renders it even vain to surmise.
Nothing nom can be known of their origin, and
the last vestiges of them were swept away when
Monk built his citadel.
They were, of course, ruined by Hertford in his
first invasion, ?and from the circumstance of the
church in the citadel being dedicated to St. Nicholas,
Legendary Art,? she mentions two : ?? a seaport
with ships in the distance ; St. Nicholas in his episcopal
robes (as Archbishop of Myra), stands by
as directing the whole;? and a storm at sea, in
which ?St. Nicholas appears as a vision above ; in
one hand he holds a lighted taper ; with the other
he appears to direct the course of the vessel.??
To this apostle of ancient manners had the
old edifice in North Leith been dedicated, when
the site whereon it stood was an open and sandy
eminence, overlooking a waste of links to the northward,
and afterwards encroached on by the sea ;
and its memory is still commemorated in a narrow
and obscure alley, called St. Nicholas Wynd,
according to Fullarton?s ?? Gazetteer,? in 1851.

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. sion opposite to the church of St. Ninian, but is now rebuilt into a modern ...

Book 6 p. 256
(Score 0.78)

survivors of the corps would make their last actual
appearance in public at the laying of the foundation
of his monument, on the 15th of August, 1840.
The last captain of the Guard was James Burnet,
their ancestors and successors, were attached to
most royal foundations, and they are mentioned in
the chartulary of Moray, about 1226. The number
of these Bedesmen was increased by one every
CHAPTER XV.
THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES.
St. Giles?s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Origin and early Norman style-The Renovation of &-History of the Structure-Procession of the
Saint?s Relics-The Preston Relic-The Chapel of the Duke of Albmy-Funeral of the Regent Murray-The ?Gude Regent?s Aisle?-
The Assembly Aisle-Dispute between James VI. and the Church Party-Departure of James VI.-Haddo?s Hole-The Napicr Tomb-
The Spire and lantern-Clock and Bells-The KramesRestoration of 1878.
THE church of St. Giles, or Sanctus Egidius, as
he is termed in Latin, was the first parochial one
erected in the city, and its history can be satisfactorily
deduced from the early part of the 12th
century, when it superseded, or was engrafted on
an edifice of much smaller size and older date,
one founded about? IOO years after the death of
its patron saint, the abbot and confessor St. Giles,
who was born in Athens, of noble-some say royal
-parentage, and who, while young, sold his patrimony
and left his native country, to the end that
he might serve God in retirement. In the year
666 he amved at Provence, in the south of France,
and chose a retreat near Arles; but afterwards,
desiring more perfect solitude, he withdrew into a
forest near Gardo, in the diocese of Nismes, havjng
with him only one companion, Veredemus, who
lived with him on the fruits of the earth and the
milk of a hind. As Flavius Wamba, King of the
Goths, was one day hunting in the neighbourhood
of Nismes, his hounds pursued her to the hermitage
of the saint, where she took refuge. This hind
has been ever associated with St. Giles, and its
figure is to this day the sinister supporter of the
city arms. ( ? I Caledonia,? ii., p. 773.) St. Giles
died in 721, on the 1st of September, which was
always held as his festival in Edinburgh; and to some
disciple of the Benedictine establishment in the
south of France we doubtless owe the dedication
of the parish church there. , He owes his memory
in the English capital to Matilda of Scotland,
queen of Henry I., who founded there St. Giles?s
hospital for lepers in I I 17. Hence, the large parish
which now lies in the heart of London took its name

... of the corps would make their last actual appearance in public at the laying of the foundation of his ...

Book 1 p. 138
(Score 0.78)

170 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew Square.
old Scottish school. His habits were active, anc
he was fond of all invigorating sports. He wa
skilled as an archer, golfer, skater, bowler, ant
curler, and to several kindred associations of thosc
sports he and ol$ Dr. Duncan acted as secretarie!
for nearly half a century. For years old EbeI
Wilson, the bell-ringer of the Tron Church, had thc
reversion of his left-off cocked hats, which he wore
together with enormous shoe-buckles, till his deatl
in 1823. For years he and the Doctor had been thc
only men who wore the old dress, which the latte
retained till he too died, twelve years after.
No. 24 was the house of the famous millionaire
Gilbert Innes of Stowe.
The Scottish Equitable Assurance Society occu
pies No. 26. It was established in 1831, and war
incorporated by royal charter in 1838 and 1846
It is conducted on the principle of mutual as
surance, ranks a~ a first-class office, and has accumu
lated funds amounting to upwards of ~ 2 , 2 5 0 , 0 0 0
with branch offices in London, Dublin, Glasgow
and elsewhere.
No. 29 was in 1802 the house of Sir Patrick
Murray, Bart., of Ochtertyre, Baron of the Ex
chequer Court, who died in 1837. It is now thc
offices of the North British Investment Corn
PanYNo.
33, now a shop, was in 1784 the house oi
the Hon. Francis Charteris of Amisfield, afterwards
fifth Earl of Wemyss. He was well known during
his residence in Edinburgh as the particular patron
of ?Old Geordie Syme,? the famous town-piper
of Dalkeith, and a retainer of the house of Buccleuch,
whose skill on the pipe caused him to be
much noticed by the great folk of his time. 01
Geordie, in his long yellow coat lined with red,
red plush breeches, white stockings, buckled shoes
and blue bonnet, there is an excellent portrait in
Kay. The earl died in 1808, and was succeeded
by his grandson, who also inherited the earldom
of March.
Nos. 34 and 35 were long occupied as Douglas?s
hotel, one of the most fashionable in the city, and
one which has been largely patronised by the royal
families of many countries, including the Empress
EugCnie when she came to Edinburgh, to avail
herself, we believe, of the professional skill of Sir
James Simpson. On that occasion Colonel Ewart
marched the 78th Regiment or Ross-shire Buffs,
recently returned from the wars of India, before
the hotel windows, with the band playing Padant
pour Za Syrie, on which the Empress came to
the balcony and repeatedly bowed and waved her
handkerchief to the Highlanders.
In this hotel Sir Walter Scott resided for a few
days after his return from Italy, and just before his
death at Abbotsford, in September, 1832.
No. 35 is now the new head office of the Scottish
Provident Institution, removed hither from No. 6.
It was originally the residence of Mr. Andrew
Crosbie, the advocate, a well-known character in
his time, who built it. He was the original of
Counsellor Pleydell in the novel of ? Guy Mannering.?
In 1754 Sir Philip Ainslie was the occupant of
No. 38. Born in 1728, he was the son of George
Ainslie, a Scottish merchant of Bordeaux, who,
having made a fortune, returned home in 1727,
and purchased the estate of Pilton, near Edinburgh.
Sir Philip?s youngest daughter, Louisa, became the
wife of John Allan of Errol House, who resided in
No. 8. Sir Philip?s mother was a daughter of
William Morton of Gray.
His house is now, with No. 39, a portion of the
office of the British Linen Company?s Bank, the
origin and pro?gress of which we have noticed in
our description of the Old Town. It stands immediately
south of the recess in front of the Royal
Bank, and was mainly built in 1851-2, after designs
by David Bryce, R.S.A., at a cost of about
~30,000. It has a three-storeyed front, above
sixty feet in height,.with an entablature set back
to the wall, and surmounted above the six-fluted
and projecting Corinthian columns by six statues,
each eight feet in height, representing Navigation,
Commerce, Manufacture, Art, Science, and Agricu!
ture; and it has a splendid cruciform tellingroom,
seventy-four feet by sixty-nine, lighted by a
most ornate cupola of stained glass, thirty feet in
diameter and fifty high. With its magnificent
columns of Peterhead granite, its busts of celebrated
Scotsmen, and its Roman tile pavement,
it is all in perfect keeping with the grandeur of
the external facade. This bank has about 1,080
partners.
Immediately adjoining, on the south, is the
National Bank of Scotland, presenting a flank to
West Register Street. It was enlarged backward
;n 1868, but is a plain almost unsightly building
mid its present surroundings. It is a bank of
:omparatively modem origin, having been estabished
on the zIst March, 1825. In terms of a
:ontract of co-partnership between and among the
iartners, the capit31 and stock of the company were
ixed at &,ooo,ooo, the paid-up portion of which
s ~I,OOO,OOO. In the royal charter granted to
he National Bank on the 5th August, 1831, a
ipecific declaration is made, that ? nothing in these
resents ? shall be construed to limit the responsiility
and liability of the individual partners of the

... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [St. Andrew Square. old Scottish school. His habits were active, anc he was fond of ...

Book 3 p. 170
(Score 0.78)

394 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
the Church, were ordered to be converted into great guns for the use of the Town,” a
resolution so far departed from, that they were sold the following year for two hundred
and twenty pounds.’ Two of the remaining bells were recast at Campvere in Zealand, in
1621 ; ’ and the largest of these having cracked, it was again recast at London in 1846.
In 1585, St Giles’s Church obtained some share of its neighbours’ spoils, after having
been stripped of all its sacred furniture by the iconoclasts of the sixteenth century. That
year the Council purchased the clock belonging to the Abbey Church of Lindores in Fife,
and put it up in St Giles’s steeple,s previous to which time the citizens probably regulated
time chiefly by the bells for matins and vespers, and the other daily services of the Roman
Catholic Church.
Such is an attempt to trace, somewhat minutely, the gradual progress of St Giles’s,
from the small Parish Church of a rude hamlet, to the wealthy Collegiate Church, with its
forty altars, and a still greater number of chaplains and officiating priests ; and from
thence to its erection into a cathedral, with the many vicissitudes it has since undergone,
until its entire remodelling in 1829. The general’paucity of records enabling us to fix the
era of the later stages of. Gothic architecture in Scotland confers on such inquiries some
value, as they suffice to show that our northern architects adhered to the early Gothic
models longer than those of England, and executed works of great beauty and mechanical
skill down to the reign of James V., when political and religious dissensions abruptly
closed the history of ecclesiastical architecture in the kingdom. No record preserves to us
the names of those who designed the ancient Parish Church of St Giles, or the elaborate
additions that gradually extended it to its later intricate series of aisles, adorned with
every variety of detail. It will perhaps be as well, on the whole, that the name of
the modern architect who undertook the revision of their work should share the same
oblivion.
Very different, both in its history and architectural features, from the venerable though
greatly modernised Church of St Giles, is the beautiful edifice which stood at the foot of
Leith Wynd, retaining externally much the same appearance as it assumed nearly 400
years ago, at the behest of the widowed Queen of James II., whose ashes repose beneath
its floor. The Collegiate Church of the Holy Trinity was founded in 1462, by the Queen
Dowager, Mary of Guelders, for a provost, eight prebends, and two singing boys; in
addition to which there was attached to the foundation an hospital for thirteen poor bedemen,
clad, like the modern pensioners of royalty, in blue gowns, who were bound to pray
for the soul of the royal foundress. In the new statutes, it is ordered that (‘ the saidis
Beidmen sal1 prepair and mak ilk ane of yame on yair awin expensis, ane Blew-gown, COBform
to thefirst Foundation.” The Queen Dowager died on the 16th November 1463,
and was buried ‘‘ in the Queen’s College besyde Edinburgh, quhilk sho herself foundit,
biggit, and dotit.” ‘ No monument remains to mark the place where the foundress is laid;
but her tomb is ienerdly understood to be in the vestry, on the north side of the church.
The death of the Queen so soon after the date of the charter of foundation, probably
prevented the completion of the church according to the original design. As it now stands
it consita of the choir and transepts, with the central tower partially built, and evidently
1 Maitland, p. 273. * Ibid, p. 62. 8 Burgh Register, YOL vii. p. 177. Maitland, p. 273. ‘ haley’s Hkt. p. 36.

... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. the Church, were ordered to be converted into great guns for the use of the Town,” ...

Book 10 p. 432
(Score 0.78)

ECCLESIASTICAL, ANTIQUITIES. 3 87
Church‘s censures. This same apartment served as the prison in which Sir John Gtordon
of Haddo was secured in 1644, previous to his trial and execution, from whence one of
the places of worship into which the nave of the ancient Collegiate Church was divided
derived its singular name of “ Haddow’s Hole.” Both the porch, and the two chapels to
the east of it, have disappeared in the recent remodelling of the church, although they
formed originally very picturesque features externally, with their pointed gables, and steep
roofs ‘‘ theikit with stane,” and with them also the deep archway which had formerly gives
access to the most ancient fragment of the Parish Church. The eastmost of these chapels,
which is now replaced by what appears externally as the west aisle of the north transept,
was the only portion of the church in which any of the coloured glass remained, with which,
doubtless, most of its windows were anciently filled. Its chief ornament consisted of an
elephant, very well executed, underneath which were the crown and hammer, the armorial
bearings of the Incorporation of Hammermen, enclosed within a wreath. From these
insignia we may infer that this was St Eloi’s Chapel, at the altar of which, according to the
traditions of the burgh, the craftsmeu of Edinburgh who had followed Allan, Lord High
Steward of Scotland, to the Holy Land, and aided in the recovery of the Holy Sepulchre
from the Infidels, dedicated the famous Blue Blanket, or “ Banner of the Holy Ghost.”
The large and beautiful centre key-stone of this chapel
is now in the collection of C. K. Sharpe, Esq. It
is adorned with a richly-sculptured boss, formed
of four dragons, with distended wings, each different
in design, the tails of which are gracefully extended,
EO as to cover the intersecting ribs of the groined
roof. The centre is formed by a large flower, to
which an iron hook is attached; from whence, no
doubt,, anciently depended a lamp over the altar
of St Eloi, the patron saint of the Hammermen
of Edinburgh. The painted glass from the chapel
window-which, from the rarity of such remains
in Scotland, would have possessed even a greater
value than the beautiful key-stone - has either
gone to enrich aome private collection, or been
destroyed like the old chapel to which it belonged, as we have failed in all attempt8
to recover any clue to it. The view of the church from the narth-west will sufice
to convey some idea of the singularly picturesque appearance of this part of the old
building externally, even when encumbered with the last of.the Krames, and with its
walls and windows defaced with many incongruous additions of later date. A restoration
of this would have well rewarded the labour of the architect, and merited a grateful
appreciation, which very few indeed will consider due to the uniformity that has been
effected by its sacrifice, The two western chapels still remain, with B yery light and
elegant clustered pillar, adorned with sculptured shields on a rich foliated capital, from
vhich spring the ribs pf the groined roof and the arches that divide it from the adjoining
aisle. The ornamental sculptures of this portion of the church are of a peculiarly
‘
Pennecuick’s History of the Blue Blanket, p. 28. -.

... ANTIQUITIES. 3 87 Church‘s censures. This same apartment served as the prison in which Sir John ...

Book 10 p. 425
(Score 0.78)

&rnbers Street.] INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM. 275
metalhrgy and constructive materials, for ceramic
.and vitreous manufactures, the decorative arts,
guise of various animals, seek to aid 0; hinder its ' ascent.
textile manufactures, food, education, chemistry,
materia medica, photography, &c.
The whole floor is covered with articles illustrative
of the arts of construction, such as products
.of the clay-fields, fire and brick clays, and terra-
-cottas. Cements and artificial stones stand next
in order, followed by illustrations of the mode of
quarrying real stone ; adjoining these are stones
dressed for building purposes, and others carved
for ornamental uses.
Oriental stone carving is illustrated by a set of
magnificent plaster casts from one of the- most
famous gates of Delhi, made by order of the
Indian Government. The sanitary appliances used
in building are likewise exhibited here ; also slate
.and its uses, with materials for surface decorations,
.and woods for house timber and furniture.
Among the more prominent objects are large
.models of Scottish lighthouses, presented by the
Commissioners of Northern Lights, of St. Peter's at
Rome, St Paul's at London, and the Bourse in
Berlin, together with a singularly elegant carton-
.pierre ceiling ornament, and finely designed mantelpiece,
that were originally prepared for Montagu
House.
In the centre of the hall are some beautiful
.specimens of large guns and breechloading fieldpieces,
with balls and shells, and a fine model of
-the bridge over the Beulah in Westmoreland.
A hall devoted to the exhibition of flint and clay
products, and illustrations of glass and pottery, is
in the angle behind the great and east saloons.
'The art Potteries of Lambeth are here represented
by beautiful vases and plaques, and other articles
in the style of old Flemish stoneware. There are
.also fine examples of the Frenchfuiencr, by Deck
-of Paris, including a splendid dish painted by
Anker, and very interesting samples of Persian
-pottery as old as t b fourteenth century.
There is a magnificent collection of Venetian
.glass, comprising nearly 400 pieces, made by the
Abbot Zanetti of Murano, in Lombardy; while
modern mosaic work is exemplified by a beautiful
,reredos by Salviati, representing the Last Supper.
The beauty of ancient tile work is here exhibited
in some exquisite fragments from Constantinople,
These formed, originally, part of the
.several decorations of the mosque of Broussa, in
Anatolia, which was destroyed by an earthquake.
In rich blue on a white ground they display a
variety of curious conceptions, one of which represents
the human soul shooting aloft as a tall
=cypress tree, while good and evil spirits, under the
Near these are placed, first, illustrations of colliery
work, then of metallurgical operations, and lastly,
the manufacture of metals. The first, or lower
gallery of this hall, contains specimens of the arts
in connection with clothing, and the textile fabrics
generally and their processes ; wood, silk, cotton,
hemp, linen, jute, felt, silk, and straw-hat making,
leather, fur, and also manufactures from bone, ivory,
horn, tortoise-shell, feathers, hair-gut, gutta-percha,
india-rubber, &c. ; and the upper gallery contains
the collection illustrative of chemistry, the chemical
arts, materia medica, and philosophical instruments.
The department of machinery contains a speci
men, presented by the inventor. of Lister's wool
combing machine, which, by providing the means
of combing long wools mechanically, effected an
enormous change in the worsted trade of Yorkshire.
*
In the front of the east wing is the lecture
room, having accommodation for 800 sitters
Above it is a large apartment, seventy feet in
length by fifty broad, containing a fine display of
miner'als and fossils. One of the most interesting
features in this department is the large and valuable
collection of fossils which belonged to Hugh
Miller.
The ethnological specimens are ranged in hahdsome
cases around the walls. The natural his.
tor). hall contains on its ground floor a general
collection of mammalia, including a complete
grouping of British animals. The first gallery
contains an ample collection of birds and shells,
&c; the upper gallery, reptiles and fishes. In
the hall is suspended the skeleton of a whale
seventy-nine feet in length.
On the north side of Chambers Street is the new
Watt Institution and School of Arts, erected in
lieu of that of which we have already given a history
in Adam Square. (VoL I., pp. 379, 380.) It was
erected in 1872-3 from designs by David Rhind,
and is two storeys in height, with a pavilion at
its west end, and above its entrance porch the
handsome statue of James Watt which stood in
the demolished square.
Beside this institution stands the Phrenological
Museum, on the north side, forming a conjoint
building With it, and containing a carefully assorted
collection of human skulls some of them being of
great antiquity. It was formerly in Surgeon Square,
High School Yard.
The new Free Tron Church stands here, nearly
Sec "Great Industries of Great Britain." VoL I., pp. 107-8;
II., b

... Street.] INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM. 275 metalhrgy and constructive materials, for ceramic .and vitreous ...

Book 4 p. 275
(Score 0.77)

GASSELL, PETTER h GALPlll k CO LITH.LONDON.
ST. GILES?S CHURCH.
E. Old Record Room.
2. Entrance to Old Record Rwm
3. Northern Doorway.
4. Northern Transept.

... PETTER h GALPlll k CO LITH.LONDON. ST. GILES?S CHURCH. E. Old Record Room. 2. Entrance to Old Record ...

Book 6 p. 188
(Score 0.77)

?? are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some
sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for
fear of falling, especially Halyrud HOUS, althocht
the Bishop of Sanct Androw?s, in time of Papistry,
INTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD HOUSE, 1687- (AflW Wyck a d p. Mad;.)
abbacy in favour of his son before 1583, and died
in 1593. He was interred near the third pillar
from the south-east corner, on the south side of the
church.
up and repairt.? To this Bothwell answered that
the churches referred to had been pillaged and
ruined before his time, especially Holyrood I
Church, ?quhilk hath been thir tnintie yeris 1
bygane ruinous through decay of twa principal
pillars, sa that none wer assurit under it,? and that
two thousand pounds would not be sufficient for
24th February, 1581, and was a Lord of Session
in 1593. In 1607 part of the abbey property,
together with the monastery itself, ,vas converted
into a temporal peerage for him and his heirs, by
the title of Lord Holyroodhouse. John Lord
Bothwell died without direct heirs male, and
though the title shouldhave descended to his brother

... are decayit, and made some sheep-folds, and some sa ruinous that none dare enter into thame for fear of ...

Book 3 p. 49
(Score 0.77)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Rimarton. 3 2 0
1) OLD SAUGHTON BRIDGE ; 2, OLD SAUGHTON HOUSE ; 3, BARNTON HOUSE ; 4, CRAMOND CHURCH

... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Rimarton. 3 2 0 1) OLD SAUGHTON BRIDGE ; 2, OLD SAUGHTON HOUSE ; 3, BARNTON HOUSE ; 4, ...

Book 6 p. 320
(Score 0.77)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc
- ~- I
CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY.
than doubled all the specie circulating in France,
when it was hoarded up, or sent out of the country.
Thus severe edicts were published, threatening with
dire punishment all who were in possession of Azo
of specie-edicts that increased the embarrassments
of the nation. Cash payments were stopped at the
bank, and its notes were declared to be of no value
after the 1st November, 1720. Law?s influence was
lost, his life in danger from hordes of beggared and
infuriated people. He fled from the scenes of his
splendour and disgrace, and after wandering through
various countries, died in poverty at Venice on the
zist of March, 1729. Protected by the Duchess of
Bourbon, William, a brother of the luckless comptroller,
born in Lauriston Castle, became in time a
Mardchal de Camp in France, where his descendants
have acquitted themselves with honour in
many departments of the State.
C H A P T E R XI.
CORSTORPHINE.
hrstorphine-Suppd Origin of the Name-The Hill-James VI. hunting there-The Cross-The Spa-The Dicks of Braid and Corstorphine--?
Corstorpliine Cream?-Convalt.scent House-A Wraith-The Original Chapel-The Collegiate Church-Its Provosts-Its Old
Tombs-The Castle and Loch of Corstorphine-The Forrester Family.
CORSTORPHINE, with its hill, village, and ancient
church, is one of the most interesting districts of
Edinburgh, to which it is now nearly joined by lines
of villas and gas lamps. Anciently it was called
Crosstorphyn, and the name has proved a puzzle to
antiquarians, who have had sonie strange theories
on the subject of its origin.
By some it is thought to have obtained its name
from the circumstance of a golden cross-Croix
d?orjn-having been presented to the church by
a French noble, and hence Corstorphine; and
an obscure tradition of some such cross did once
exist. According to others, the name signified
?? the milk-house under the hill,?? a wild idea in

... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstrophinc - ~- I CRAIGCROOK IN THE PRESENT DAY. than doubled all the specie ...

Book 5 p. 112
(Score 0.77)

152 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
No. CCXXII.
REV. DR. BUCHANAN,
ONE OF THE MINISTERS OF THE CANONOATE CHURCH.
THER EV.W ALTEBURC HANAwNa s born in Glasgow in 1755. After completing
his studies at the University of that city-where he was the class-fellow of the
late Rev. Dr. Dickson of Edinburgh and Dr. Robertson of Leith, with whom
he formed an intimacy which continued uninterrupted during the remainder of
their lives-he was licensed by the Presbytery of his native place in 1778.
He approved himself an ‘‘ acceptable preacher ; ” and at an early period had
the Scotch Church at Rotterdam offered to him. This he declined, and almost
immediately afterwards received a call to the new Church or Chapel (now St.
John’s) South Leith ; but, while on trials for ordination before the Presbytery
of Edinburgh, the death of Mr Randall of Stirling having occasioned a vacancy
there, he was appointed, and ordained to the first charge of that town in 1780.
He remained in Stirling about nine years, and was greatly esteemed by his
parishioners, among whom he laboured with conscientious and effective zeal.
Dr. Buchanan was translated to the second charge of the Canongate Church
in 1789. He had been opposed, as a candidate, by the late Dr. Thomas
M‘Knight, and the parish was much divided respecting the choice ; but, such
was his character and usefulness, he soon became respected and beloved by alleven
those who had most resolutely opposed his settlement. As a preacher he
was highly evangelical ; his oratory plain, but impressive ; his language chastely
simple ; and his manner displayed an affectionate warmth of feeling, which he
carried into the performance of all his duties.
In the discharge of his pastoral superintendence-throughout the long period
of his incumbency, until within a few years of his death-he was distinguished
not less for unwearied diligence, than the charity with which he administered
to the temporal as well as spiritual wants of the distressed. “With what
affectionate zeal ” (in the language of Dr. Dickson of St. Cuthbert’s),’ ‘‘ did he
enter into the condition of all who needed or solicited hi% friendly advice or
exertions; to how many a bereaved widow was he like a husband-to how
many an orphan like a father-to how many of the poor a steward of heaven’s
bounty-to how many helpless and destitute did he stretch out the hand of
protection, or obtain for them places of shelter or other means of relief! In
him peculiarly was the character of Job exemplified, that ‘ when the ear heard
Funeral sermon preached on the 16th December 1832.

... BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. No. CCXXII. REV. DR. BUCHANAN, ONE OF THE MINISTERS OF THE CANONOATE CHURCH. THER ...

Book 9 p. 202
(Score 0.76)

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