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HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE NOTES. 73
‘ suits of ancient and rusted armour, interchanged with massive stone scutcheons
bearing (crescents), double tressures Aowered and countedowered,
wheat-sheaves, coronets, and so forth,’ to all of which the love-sick page was
utterly indifferent. .
In a charter granted by the Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh to
Ebenezer M‘CulIoch, one of the Managers of the ‘British Linen Manufactory,’
in the year 1748, the ground now partly occupied by Whiteford House is
described as ‘All and Whole that area and ruins which formerly belonged
to the Earls of firinton, and now to us.’ From the record of the relative proceedings
by the Town Council, it appears that the dimensions of the ‘ area ’
were as follows : ‘from east to west, fronting to the high street of the Canongate,
seventy-two feet four inches ; from east to west, fronting to the road leading
by the north side of the Canongate, sixty-two feet ; and from south to
north, two hundred and fourteen feet.’ The ‘ruins’ appear to have long since
been levelled to the ground ; but during some very recent excavations a few
WHITGPOXD HOUSE.
yards to the south of Whiteford House, several underground arches were
brought to light, which in all probability formed a portion of the ancient
edifice of the Setons. ShortIy after M‘Culloch’s purchase, the property was
sold to Andrew Fletcher of Salton, Lord Justice-clerk; and after passing
through the hands of various owners, it was acquired, in 1769, by John
Coutts, merchant in Edinburgh, ancestor of the accomplished and philanthropic
Baroness Burdett-Coutts. The year following, a portion of the area was sold
to John Grant, a Baron of Exchequer, who appears to have previously purchased
the remainder, as he obtained authority from t h e a e a n of Guild
Court, in the summer of 1766, to build the present Whiteford House. It
was inhabited for many years, till his death in 1833, by Sir William Macleod
Bannatyne, raised to the Bench as Lord Bannatyne in 1799, whose conversa-
K ... AND DESCRIPTIVE NOTES. 73 ‘ suits of ancient and rusted armour, interchanged with massive stone ...

Book 11  p. 118
(Score 0.88)

OLD AND NEW EDINBUKGH. [I eith.
and Mary, constituting their uncle, Rend, Marquis
dElbeuf, Regent of Scotland. She tried to arrange
a treaty of peace, including Scotland, England, and
France, but died ere it could be concluded, on
the 10th June, 1560.
Fresh forces were now envkoning Leith. Sir
James Balfour states that there were among them
4c 12,000 Scots Protestants,? under the Duke of
Chatelerault, eleven peers, and 120 lesser
barons ; but all their operations at Leith had signally
failed ; thus Lethington, in one of his letters,
acknowledged that its fortifications were so strong,
that if well victualled it might defy an army of
zo,ooo men. In these circumstances negotiations
for peace began. A commission was granted by
Francis and May, joint sovereigns of Scotland, to
John de Monluc, Bishop of Valence, Nicholas,
Bishop of Amiens, the Sieurs de la Brosse, d?Oisel,
and de Raudan, to arrange the conditions of a
treaty to include Scotland, France, and England.
It was duly signed at Edinburgh, but prior to it
the French, says Rapin, offered to restore Calais
if Elizabeth would withdraw her troops from before
Leith. ?But she answered that she did not
value that Fishtown so much as the quiet of
Britain.?
It was stipulated that the French army should
embark for France on board of English ships with
bag and baggage, arms and armour, without molestation,
and that, on the day they evacuated Leith
Lord Grey should begin his homeward march ; but,
oddly enough, it was expressly stipulated that an
officer with sixty Frenchmen should remain in the
castle of Inchkeith It was also arranged that all
the artillery in Leith should be collected in the
market-place ; that at the same time the artillery of
the besiegers, piece for piece, should be ranged in
an open place, and that every gun and standard
should be conveyed to their respective countries.
On the 16th of July, 1560, the French troops,
reduced now to 4000 men, under MarCchal
Strozzi, marched out of Leith after plundering it of
everything they could lay their hands on, and embarked
on board Elizabeth?s fleet, thus closiiig a
twelve years? campaign inScotland. At the same
hour the English began their march for the Borders,
and John Knox held a solemn service of thanks
giving in St. Giles?s.
In addition to the battery mounds which still
remain, many relics of this siege have been dis
covered from time to time in Leith. In 1853,
when some workmen were lowering the head of
King Street, they came upon an old wall of great
strength (says the Edinburgh Guardian of that
year), and near it lay two ancient cannon-balls,
respectively 6- and 32-pounders. In the Scotsman
for 1857 and 1859 is reported the discovery of
several skeletons buried in the vicinity of the batteries
; and many human bones, cannon-balls, old
swords, &c., have been found from time to time
in the vicinity of Wellington Place. Two of the
principal thoroughfares of Leith were said to be
long known as Les Deux Bras, being so styled by
the garrison of Mary of Lorraine.
CHAPTER XIX.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (c~ntittu~d).
f i e Fortifications demolished-Landing of Queen Mary-Leith Mortgaged-Edinburgh takes Military Possession of i t - a Convention-a Plague
.-Jams VI. Departs and Returns-WitchesGowrie Conspiracy-The Union Jack-Pirates-Taylor the Water Poet-A Fight in the
Harbour-Death of Jams VI.
BARELY was the treaty of peace concluded, than
it was foolishly resolved by the Scottish government
to demolish the fortifications which had been reared
with such labour and skill, lest they migh! be the
means of future mischief if they fell into the hands
of an enemy ; consequently, the following Order of
Council was issued at Edinburgh 2nd July, 1560,
commanding their destruction :-
?Forsaemeikle as it is naturiie knawyn how
hurtful the fortifications of Leith hes been to this
haille realme, and in especialle to the townes next
adjacent thairunto, and how prejudiciall the same
sal1 be to the libertie of this haille countrie, in caiss
strangears sal1 at any tyme hereafter intruse thamselfs
thairin : For this and syck like considerations
the Council has thocht expedient, and chargis
Provost, Bailies and Council of Edinburgh to tak
order with the town and community of the same?
and caus and compel1 thame to appoint a sufficient
number to cast doilll and demolish the south part
of the said towne, begynand at Sanct Anthones
Port, and passing westward to the Water of Leith,
making the Blockhouse and curtain equal with the
ground.? ... AND NEW EDINBUKGH. [I eith. and Mary, constituting their uncle, Rend, Marquis dElbeuf, Regent of Scotland. ...

Book 5  p. 178
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33 Canongate.] THE EARL OF SEAFIELD-AND THE UNION.
matures were affixed to the Act of Union, while the
cries of the exasperated mob rang in the streets
without the barred gates.
When James VII. so rashly urged those measures
in 1686 which were believed to be a prelude to
the re-establishment of the Catholic hierarchy,
under the guise of toleration, a new Scottish
ministry was formed, but chiefly consisting of
members of the king?s own faith. Among these
w i s the proprietor of this old house, Alexander
Earl of Moray, a recent convert from Protestantism,
then Lord High Commissioner to the Parliament,
and as such the representative of royalty in festive
hall as well as the Senate j and his mansion, being
Lord Lorne?s marriage-that Lorne better known
.as the luckless Earl of Argyle-with Lady Mary
Stuart, of the House of Moray.
In the highest terrace of the old garden an
ancient thorn-tree was pointed out as having been
planted by Queen Mary-a popular delusion, born
of the story that the house had belonged to her
hother, the subtle Regent ; but there.long remained
ahe old stone summer-house, surmounted by two
foul and degrading bribery connected with that
event took place within its walls, may safely be
inferred from the fact that it was the residence of
the Earl of Seafield,.then Lord High Chancellor, and
one of the commissioners for the negotiation of the
treaty, by which he pocketed j64g0, paid by the
Earl of Godolphin: and he it was who, on giving
the royal assent by touching the Act of Union with
I the sceptre, said, with a brutal laugh, ?? There?s an
? end of an auld sang.?
From those days Moray House ceased, like
many others, to be the scene of state pageantries.
For a time it became the ofice of the British Linen
Company?s Bank. Then the entail was broken
in the very centre of what was then the most aristocratic
quarter of the city, was admirably suited
for his courtly receptions, all the more so that
about that period the spacious gardens on the
south were, like those of Heriot?s Hospital, a kind
of public promenade or lounging place, as would
appear chiefly from a play called ? The Assembly,?
written by the witty Dr. Pitcairn in 1692.
The union of the kingdoms is the next historical ... Canongate.] THE EARL OF SEAFIELD-AND THE UNION. matures were affixed to the Act of Union, while the cries of ...

Book 3  p. 33
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thirteen hundred acres, which he rented in Aberdeenshire,
and which, by his skill and industry, he
brought into a fine state of fertility. In the same
year he wrote his ?? Observations on the Means of
Exciting a Spirit of National Industry ? with regard
to agriculture, commerce, manufactures, and fisher;
es, and also several pamphlets on agricultural
subjects, which gained him a high reputation ; and
in 1780 the University of Aberdeen conferred upon
him the degree of LL.D.
CURRIE.
quire into the state of the British fisheries in May,
1785, makes very honourable mention of Dr.
Anderson?s services ; but we do not find that he
was ever offered any remuneration, and he was
too high-spirited and purely disinterested to ask
for any.
After his return he resumed his literary labours
in various ways, and, among other schemes, brought
out a literary periodical called The Bee, or Literary
Week&IntelZigencer, which was current from Decem-
Quitting the farm, he returned to the vicinity of
Edinburgh, with a view to the education of his
large family, and partly to enjoy the literary society
which then existed there.
About that time he circulated a tract on the
establishment of the Scottish fisheries, with a view
to alleviate much distress which he had witnessed on
the coast of Aberdeenshire from the failure of the
crops in 1782.
This excited the attention of the Government,
and he was requested by the Treasury to survey
the western coasts of Scotland, and obtain information
on this important subject-a task which he
performed with enthusiasm in 1784
Thp report of the committee appointed to in-
.
ber, 1790, to January, 1794, and was very popular
in Edinburgh.
In 1797 he removed to London, where much
attention was paid to him by the Marquis of
Lansdowne, at whose request, in 1799, he started
a periodical, entitled Recreations in Agricdture.
The greatest portion of this work was written
by himself, but he pursued it no further than the
sixth volume, in March, 1802. From thenceforth,
with the exception of his correspondence
with General Washington and a pamphlet od
?Scarcity,? he was unable to write more; and,
feeling the powers of life begin to decline, devoted
his leisure to the cultivation of a miniature garden.
A list of his publications, thirty in number, is ... hundred acres, which he rented in Aberdeenshire, and which, by his skill and industry, he brought into a ...

Book 6  p. 336
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368 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
cessarily woven up with the warlike, even from the
days when our forefathers, with their good swords
and true hearts, were enabled to defend their homes
and hills against all the might of England, aided,
? as albeit the latter often was, by Ireland, Wales,
and all the chivalry of Normandy and Aquitaine ;
and to hand down to future times the untarnished
crown of a regal race as an emblem of what Scotland
was, ere she peacefully quartered her royal arms
and insignia with those of her adversary, with whom
she shared her kings, and as an emblem of what
she is still, with her own Church, laws, and constitution,
free and unfettered.
The Old city-with its ?stirring memories of
a thousand years ?-has records which are, in tenor,
widely apart from those of the New; yet, in the
former, we may still see the massive, picturesque,
quaint and time-worn abodes of those who bore their
part in the startling events of the past-fierce combats,
numerous raids, cruelties and crimes that
tarnish the?histonc page j while in the New city,
with its stately streets, its squares and terraces,
the annals are all recent,?and refer to the arts of
Peace alone-to a literary and intellectual supremacy
hitherto unsurpassed.
Yet, amid the thousands of its busy population,
life is leisurely there ; but, as has been well said,
?it is not the leisure of a village arising from the
deficiency of ideas and motives-it is the leisure of
a city reposing grandly on tradition and history,
which has done its work, and does not require to
weave its own clothing, to dig its own coals, or smelt
its own iron. And then in Edinburgh, above all
British cities, you are released from the vulgarising
dominion of the hour.? For, as has been abundantly
shown throughout this work, there every step
is historical, and the past and present are ever face
to face.
The dark shadow cast by the Union has long
since passed away; but we cannot forget that
Edinburgh, like Scotland generally, was for generations-
neglected by Government, and her progress
obstructed by lame legislation ; that it is no longer
the chief place where landholders dwell, or the
revenue of a kingdom is disbursed ; and that it is
owing alone to the indomitable energy, the glorious
spirit of self-reliance, and the patriotism of her
people, that we find the Edinburgh of to-day what
sheis, in intellect and beauty, second to no city in
the world. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. cessarily woven up with the warlike, even from the days when our forefathers, with ...

Book 6  p. 368
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SIR WILLIAM FETTES. ?73 Charlotte Square.]
Canongate, after which he removed to Charlotte
Square, and finally to that house in George Street
in which he died. He was resident in Charlotte
Square before 1802, as was also the Earl of Minto.
John Lamond of Lamond and that ilk, in Argyleshire,
whose son John commanded the second
He was for many years a contractor for military
stores, and in 1800 was chosen a Director of the ? British Linen Company, in which he ultimately held
stock-the result of his own perseverance and
honest industry-to a large amount. He had in
the meantime entered the Town Council, in which
CHARLOTTE SQUARE, SHOWING ST. GEORGB?S CHURCH.
to the bar in 1822 and raised to the bench in May,
1854. Mrs. Oliphant of Rossie had No. 10, and No.
13 was at the same time (about 1810) the residence
of Sir William Fettes, Bart., of Comely Bank, the
founder of the magnificent college which bears his
name. He was born at Edinburgh on the 25th of
June, 1750, and nine years afterwards attended the
High School class taught by Mr. John Gilchrist.
At the early age of eighteen he began business as
a tea and wine merchant in Smith?s Land, High
Street, an occupation which he combined for twenty
years with that of an underwriter, besides being
connected with establishments at Leeds, Durham,
and Newcastle. His name appears in Wiiliamson?s
Directory for 1788-90 as ? William Fettes, grocer,
ofice he held for the then usual period of two years,
and for a second time in 1805 and 1806. In 1804
between the two occasions, on the 12th May he
was created a baronet. In 1787 he married Mark,
daughter of Dr. John Malcolm of Ayr. The only
child of this marriage was a son, William, born in
1787. He became a member of the Faculty of
Advocates in 1810, and gave early promise of future
eminence, but died at Berlin on the 13th of June,
1815.
Retiring from business in 1800, Sir William took
up his abode in Charlotte Square, and devoted
himself to the management of several estates which
he purchased at different times, in various parts of
The principal of these were Comely ~ Scotland. ... WILLIAM FETTES. ?73 Charlotte Square.] Canongate, after which he removed to Charlotte Square, and finally to ...

Book 3  p. 173
(Score 0.86)

I 18 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
memory, have devoted his picturesque old domicile to destruction. The Collegiate Church
of Mary of Guelders is destined to a similar fate; and, in truth, it would seem as if a
regular crusade had been organised by all classes, having for its object to root out everything
in Edinburgh that is ancient, picturesque, or interesting, owing to local or historical
associations, and to substitute in their stead the commonplace uniformity of the New Town.
One effect, however, of all this has been, by so greatly diminishing these ancient fabrics,
to awake an increased interest in the few that remain, while, even by the demolition of
others, many curious features have been brought to light, which would otherwise have
remained unknown.
It is earnestly to be desired that a lively veneration for these monuments of past times
may be more widely diffused, and produce such a wholesome spirit of conservatism, as may
at least preserve those that remain from reckless destruction. An antiquary, indeed, may
at times seem to resemble some querulous crone, who shakes her head, with boding predictions
of evil at the slightest variance from her own narrow rule ; but the new, and what
may be called- the genteel style of taste, which has prevailed during the earlier portion of
the present century, has too well justified his complaints. The old Parliament Close, with
its irregular Elizabethan Court homes, and the ancient Collegiate Church (which on that
side at least was ornate and unique), have been remodelled according to the newest fashion,
and, to complete the change, the good old name of Close, which is pleasingly associated
with the cloistral courts of the magnificent cathedrals and abbeys of England, has been
replaced by the modern, and, in this case, ridiculous one of Square. In full accordance
with this is the still more recent substitution of the name of North British Close for that
of Hrtlkerston’s Wynd-the only thing that remained about that ancient alley to commemorate
the death of David Halkerstoun of Halkerstoun, while bravely defending this
passage against the English in 1544. Modern imitations of the antique, such as have
been attempted in the newest thoroughfares in the Old Town, are easily erected, with more
or less taste, and as easily replaced. But if the Old Town of Edinburgh is once destroyed,
no wealth can restore the many int.eresting associations that still linger about its ancient
halls.
VIGNETTE-Ancient Doorway in Halkerston’a Wynd. ... 18 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. memory, have devoted his picturesque old domicile to destruction. The Collegiate ...

Book 10  p. 129
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well worth consideration ; but, interesting as it is, it
need not detain us long here.
In the ? Myrvyian, or Cambrian Archa?ology,? a
work replete with ancient lore, mention is made of
Caer-Eiddyn, or the fort of Edin, wherein dwelt
a famous chief, Mynydoc, leader of the Celtic
Britons in the fatal battle with the Saxons under
Ida, the flame-bearer, at Catraeth, in Lothian, where
the flower of the Ottadeni fell, in 510; and this is
believed to be the burgh subsequently said to be
named after Edwin.
In the list of those who went to the battle of
Catraeth there is record of 300 warriors arrayed in
fine armour, three loricated bands (Le., plated for
defence), with their commanders, wearing torques
of gold, ?three adventurous knights,? with 300 of
equal quality, rushing forth from the summits of
the mighty Caer-Eiddyn, to join their brother
chiefs of the Ottadeni and Gadeni.
In the ?British Triads? both Caer-Eiddyn
(which some have supposed to be Carriden), and
also DinasEiddyn, the city of Eiddyn, are repeatedly
named. But whether this be the city of
Edinburgh it is exceedingly difficult to say; for,
after all, the alleged Saxon denominative from
Edwin is merely conjectural, and unauthenticated
by remote hcts.
From Sharon Turner?s ?Vindication of Ancient
British Poem%,? we learn that Aneurin, whose work
contains 920 lines, was taken prisoner at the battle
of Catraeth,* and was afterwards treacherously slain
by one named Eiddyn; another account says! he
died an exile among the Silures in 570, and that the
battle was lost because the Ottadeni ?had drunk
of their mead too profusely.?
The memory of Nynydac Eiddyn is preserved
a beautiful Welsh poem entitled The Drinking
Iorn,?by Owain, Prince of Powis.
i full of energy.
The poem
?? When the mighty bards of yore
Awoke the tales of ancient lore,
What tide resplendent to behold,
Flashed the bright mead in vase of Gold !
The royal minstrel proudly sung
Of Cambria?s chiefs when time was young;
How, with the drink of heroes flushed,
Brave Catraeth?s lord to battle rushed,
The lion leader of the strong,
And marshal of Galwyiada?s throng ;
The sun that rose o?er Itun?s bay
Ne?er closed on such disastrous day ;
There fell Mynydoc, mighty lord,
Beneath stem Osway?s baneful sword ;
Yet shall thy praise, thy deathless pame,
Be woke on harps of bardic fame,
Sung by the Cymri?s tuneful tmb,
Aneurin of celestial strain.?
DanielWilson,one of the ablest writers on Scottish
ntiquities, says that he thinks it useless ?to follow
le fanciful disquisitions of zealous anticuarians
Zspecting the origin and etymology of Edinburgh ;
: has successively been derived, both in origin and
1 name, from Saxon, Pict, and Gael, and in each
ase With sufficient ingenuity to leave the subject
lore involved than at first? But while on this
ubject, it should be borne in mind that the unirtunate
destruction of the national records by the
waders, Edward I. and Oliver Cromwell, leaves
ie Scottish historian dependent for much of his
iaterial on tradition, oi information that can only
e obtained with infinite labour; though it may
o doubt be taken for granted that even if these
rchives had been preserved in their entirety they
ould scarcely have thrown much, if any, light upon
le que& vexata of the origin of the name of
;dinburgh.
CHAPTER 11.
THE CASTLE OF EDINBURGH.
Of its Origin and remoter History-The Legends concaning it-Ebranke-St. Monena-Defeat of the Saxons by King Bridei--King Ed&-
Ring Grime-The Story of Grime and Benha of Badlieu-The Starting-point of authentic Edinburgh History-SL Mugarct-Her Piety
and vlliaMe Disoosition-Her Chaoel--Ha Dath-Rcstontion of her Oiatary-Her BurLCDonnld Bauc-Khg a v i d L-l?hc Royal
Gardens, afterwp;ds the North Lock
AFTER the departure of the Romans the jnhabitants
of fiorthern Britain bore the designation of Picti,
or Picts; and historians are now agreed that these
were not a new race, but only the ancient Caledonians
under a new name.
The most remote date assigned for the origin
*The famous Cutrail, or Pictsmrk-ditch, is a u wto have had
somc amnection with this battle df cluaeth. (Gdb Cambrrasir. 11.)
of the Castle of Edinburgh is that astounding
announcement made in Stods ?Summarie of
Englyshe Chronicles,? in which he tells us that
?Ebranke, the sonne of Mempricius, was made
ruler of Britayne ; he had, as testifieth Policronica,
Ganfride, and others, twenty-one wyves, of whom
he receyved twenty sonnes and thirty daughters,
which he sent into Italye, there to be maryed to ... worth consideration ; but, interesting as it is, it need not detain us long here. In the ? Myrvyian, or ...

Book 1  p. 14
(Score 0.86)

sacres will, in a short space, run a great length. I desire
you may disperse this news abroad, if it be not in town
before your receipt of this ; for that country, and the North
of England, without speedy relief, is jn great danger of
depopulation. And the Duke of Gordon h$th in his possession
the Castle of Edinburgh, whereby he can at pleasure
level that city with the ground. At twelve of the clock yesternight
our Governor, LieutXollonel Billingsley, dispatched
an Express to the Lords Danby and Lumley for drawing their
forces to this town. I received yours to-day, which being
Sabbath-day, I beg your pardon for brevity.
? I was told they see the fires and burnings of those Rebels
at Edinburgh ; this is the beginning of the discovery of the
Popish intrigue. God defend England from the French, and
his Highness the Prince of Orange from the bloody Popish
attempts I
?London : Published by J- Wells, St. Paul?s Alley, St.
Paul?s Churchyard, ~688.?
Tidings of William?s landing filled the Scottish
Presbyterians with the wildest joy, and the magis-
THUMBIKIN.
( F m the Musewnr ofthe Society of Antiguarirs of Scutland.)
trates of Edinburgh, who but two years before
had been extravagant in their protestations to
James VII., were among the first to welcome the
invader; and the city filled fast with bands of
jubilant revolutionists, rendering it unsafe for all of
cavalier tenets to be within the walls. On the 11th
of April, 1688, William and Mxry were proclaimed
at the cross king and queen of Scotland, after an
illegally constituted Convention of the Estates,
which was attended by only thirty representatives,
declared that King James had forfeited all title to
the crown, thus making a vacancy. A great and
sudden change now came over the realm. ? Men,?
says Dr. Chambers, ?who had been lately in
danger of their lives for consciencl sake, or
starving in foreign lands, were now at the head
of affairs! The Earl of Melville, Secretary of
State ; Crawford, President of Parliament ; Argyle,
restored to title and lands, and a Privy Councillor;
Dalrymple of Stair, Hume of Marchmont,
Stewart of Goodtrees, and many other exiles,
came back from Holland, to resume prominent
positions in the public service at home; while
the instruments of the late unhappy Government
were either captives under suspicion, or living
terror-struck at their country houses. Common
people, who had been skulking in mosses from
Claverhouse?s dragoons, were now marshalled into
Y regiment, and planted as a watch on the Perth
md Forfar gentry. There were new figures in the
Privy Council, and none of them ecclesiastical.
There was a wholly new set of senators on the
bench of the Court of Session. It looked like a
sudden shift of scenes in a pantomime rather than
a series of ordinary occurrences.? For three days
and nights Edinburgh was a wild scene of pillage
and rapine. The palace was assailed, the chapel
royal sacked ; and the Duke of Gordon, on finding
that the rabble, drunk and maddened by wine and
spirits found in the cellars of cavalier families who
had fled, were .wantonly firing on his sentinels,
drew up the drawbridge, to cut off all communication
with the city; but finding that his soldiers
were divided in their religious and political
opinions, and that a revolt was impending, he
called a council of officers to frustrate the attempt ;
and the Lieutenant-Governor, Colonel John Winram,
of Liberton and the Inch House, Colonel of
the Scots Foot Guards in 1683, undertook to
watch the men, forty-four of whom it was deemed
necessary to strip of their uniforms and expel from
the fortress. In their place came thirty Highlanders,
onqthe 11th of November, and 300n after
forty-five more, under Gordon of Midstrath.
By the Privy Council the Duke was requested,
as a Roman Catholic, to surrender his command
to the next senior Protestant officer; but he declined,
saying, ?I am bound only to obey King
James VII.?
A few of the Life Guards and Greys, who had
quitted the Scottish army on its revolt, now reached
Edinburgh under the gallant Viscount Dundee,
and their presence served to support the spirits of
the Royalists, but the friends of the Revolution
brought in several companies of infantry, who were
concealed in the suburbs, and 6,000 Cameronians
marched in from the west, under standards inscribed,
?O For Reformation according to the Word
of God,? below an open Bible. These men
nobly rejected all remuneration, saying, with one
voice, ?We have come to serve our country.?
Their presence led to other conspiracies in the
garrisan, and the Duke of Gordon had rather a
harassing time of it.
The friends of William of Orange having formed
a plan for? the assassination of Dundee and Sir
George Mackenzie of Rosehahgh, compelled them ... will, in a short space, run a great length. I desire you may disperse this news abroad, if it be not in ...

Book 1  p. 62
(Score 0.85)

The Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 -
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 1824.
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stonc-Ddption of the Exchange-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Cbarnber-hventiom
of Royal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writen? Court-The ? Star and Garter? Tavern-Sir Walter Scott?s Account
of the Scene at Cleriheugh?s-Lawyers? High Jinks-The Tron Church-Histor] of the Old Church-Tht Gnat Fire of rSa~-lnciden~s
of the Conflagration-The Ruins Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engineers,
Ira 1753 we discover the first symptoms of vitality
in Edinburgh after the Union, when the pitiful
sum of A1,500 was subscribed by the convention
of royal burghs, for the purpose of ? beautifying
the city,? and the projected Royal Exchange was
fairly taken in hand.
If wealth had not increased much, the population
had, and by the middle of the eighteenth
century the citizens had begun to find the inconvenience
they laboured under by being confined
within the old Flodden wall, and that the city was
still destitute of such public buildings as were
necessary for the accommodation of those societies
which were formed, or forming, in all other capitals,
to direct the business of the nation, and provide
for the general welfare ; and so men of tas?te, rank,
and opulence, began to bestir themselves in Edinburgh
at last.
Many ancient alleys and closes, whose names
are well-nigh forgotten now, were demolished on
the north side of the Righ Street, to procure a
site for the new Royal Exchange. Some of these
had already become ruinous, and must have been
of vast antiquity. Many beautifully-sculptured
stones belonging to houses there were built into
the curious tower, erected by Mr. Walter Ross at
the Dean, and are now in a similar tower at Portobello,
Others were scattered about the garden
grounds at the foot of the Castle rock, and still
show the important character of some of the
edifices demolished. Among them there was a
lintel, discovered when clearing out the bed 01
the North Loch, with the initials IS. (and the
date 1658), supposed to be those of Jaines tenth
Lord Somerville, who, after serving long in the
Venetian army, died at a great age in 1677.
On the 13th of September, 1753, the first stone
of the new Exchange was laid by George Drummond,
then Grand Master of the Scottish Masons,
whose memory as a patriotic magistrate is still remembered
with respect in Edinburgh. A triumphal
arch, a gallery for the magistrates, and covered
stands for the spectators, enclosed the arena.
?The procession was very grand and regular,?
says the Gentleman?s Magazine for that year.
each lodge of maSons, of which there were
thirteen, walked in procession by themselves, all
uncovered, amounting to 672, most of whom were
operative masons.? The military paid proper
honours to the company on this occasion, and escorted
the procession in a suitable manner. The
Grand Master and the present substitute were
preceded by the Lord Provost, magistrates, and
council, in their robes, with the city sword, mace,
&c., carried before them, accompanied by the
directors of the scheme.
All day the foundation-stone lay open, that the
people might see it, with the Latin inscription on
the plate, which runs thus in English :-
? GEORGE DKUMMOND,
Of the Society of Freemasons in Scotland Grand Master,
Thrice Provost of the City of Edinburgh,
Three hundred Brother Masons attending,
In presence of many persons of distinction,
The Magistrates and Citizens of Edinburgh,
And of every rank of people an innumerable multitude,
And all Applaudipg ;
For convenience of the inhabitants of Edinburgh,
And the public ornament,
Laid this stone,
Wdliam Alexander being Provost,
On the 13th September, 1753. of the Era of Masonry 5753,
And of the reign of George II., King of Great Britain,
the 27th yea.?
In the stone were deposited two medals, one
bearing the profile and name of the Grand Master,
the other having the masonic arms, with the collar
of St. Andrew, and the legend, ? In the Lord is
all our trust.?
Though the stone was thus laid in 1753, the
work was not fairly begun till the following year,
nor was it finished till 1761, at the expense of
A31,5oo, including the price of the area on which
it is built ; but it never answered the purpose for
which it was intended-its paved quadrangle and
handsome Palladian arcades were never used by
the mercantile class, who persisted in meeting, as
of old, at the Cross, or where it stood.
Save that its front and western arcades have
been converted into shops, it remains unchanged
since it was thus described by Arnot, and the back I
view of it, which faces the New Town, catches the
eye at once, by its vast bulk and stupendous height,
IOO feet, all of polished ashlar, now blackened with -
the smoke of years :--.?The Exchange is a large
and elegant building, with a court in the -centre.
, ... Royal Excharge.] THE ROYAL EXCHANGE. 183 - CHAPTER XX. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF ...

Book 1  p. 183
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246 OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate.
showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect
the rain water from the eaves of a long defunct
house, with a stepping-stone to enable any one to
reach its contents.
The old Meal Market was the next locality of
importance on this side. In 1477 James 111.
ordained this market to be held ? fra the Tolbooth
up to Liberton?s Wynd, alsua fra thence upward to
the treviss;? but the meal market of 1647, as
shown in Gordon?s map, directly south of the
. Parliament House, seems to have been a long,
unshapely edifice, with two high arched gates.
. In 1690 the meal market paid to the city,
A77 15s. 6d. sterling. As we have related elsewhere,
all this quarter was destroyed by the ? Great
Fire? of 1700, which ?broke out in the lodging
immediately under Lord Crossrig?s lodging in the
meal market,? and from which he and his family
had to seek flight in their night-dress. One of
his daughters, Jean Home, died at Edinburgh in
Feb. 1769.
Edgar?s map shows the new meal market, a huge
quadrangular mass, with 150 feet front by 100 in
depth, immediately eastward of the Back Stairs.
This place was the scene of a serious not in 1763.
In November there had been a great scarcity of
meal, by which multitudes of the poor were reduced
to great suffering; hence, on the evening of the
zIst, a great mob proceeded to the gimels in the
meal market, carried off all that was there, rifled
the house of the keeper, and smashed all the furniture
that was not carried OK At midnight the
mob dispersed on the amval of some companies
of infantry from the Castle, to renew their riotous
proceedings, however, on the following day, when
they could only be suppressed ?by the presence
of the Provost (George Drummond), bdies, trainband,
constables, party of *e military, and the
city guard.? Many of the unfortunate rioters
were captured at the point of the bayonet, and
lodged in the Castle, and the whole of the Scots
Greys were quartered in the Canongate and Leith
to enforce order, ? The magistrates of Edinburgh,
and Justices of Peace for the County of Midlothian,?
says the Norfh BnYish Magazine for I 763,
have since used every means to have this market
supplied effectually with meal ; but from whatever
cause it may proceed, certain it is that the scarcity
of oatmeal is still severely felt by every family who
have occasion to make use of that commodity.?
The archiepiscopal palace and the mint, which
were near each other, on this side of the street,
have already been described (Vol. I., pp. 262-4;
267-270); but one of the old features of the locality
still remaining unchanged is the large old
gateway, recessed back, which gave access to the
extensive pleasure-grounds attached to the residence
of the Marquises of Tweeddale, and which seem to
have measured 300 feet in length by 250 in breadth,
and been overlooked in the north-west angle by the
beautiful old mansion of the Earls of Selkirk, the
basement of which was a series of elliptical arcades.
These pleasure grounds ascended from the street
to the windows of Tweeddale House, by a succession
of terraces, and were thickly planted on the
east and west with belts of trees. In Gordon?s
map for 1647, the whole of this open area had
been-what it is now Secoming again-covered
by masses of building, the greatest portion of it
being occupied by a huge church, that has had, at
various times, no less than three different congregations,
an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and, finally,
a Catholic one.
For a few years before 1688 Episcopacy was
the form of Church government in Scotlandillegally
thrust upon the people; but the selfconstituted
Convention, which transferred the
crown to William and Mary, re-established the
Presbyterian Church, abolishing the former, which
consisted of fourteen bishops, two archbishops,
and go0 clergymen. An Act of the Legislature
ordered these to conform to the new order of
things, or abandon their livings; but though expelled
from these, they. continued to officiate
privately to those who were disposed to attend to
their ministrations, notwithstanding the penal laws
enacted against them-laws which William, who
detested Presbyterianism, and was an uncovenanted
King,? intended to repeal if he had
lived. The title of archbishop was dropp?ed by
the scattered few, though a bishop was elected
with the title Primus, to regulate the religious
affairs of the community. There existed another
body attached to the same mode of worship,
composed of those who favoured the principles
which occasioned the Revolution in Scotland,
and,adopting the ritual of the Church of England,
were supplied With clergy ordained by bishops of
that country. Two distinct bodies thus existeddesignated
by the name of Non-jurants, as declining
the oaths to the new Government The first
of these bodies-unacknowledged as a legal
association, whose pastors were appointed by
bishops, who acknowledged only the authority of
their exiled king, who refused to take the oaths
prescribed by lam; and omitted all mention of the
House of Hanover in their prayers-were made
the subject of several penal statutes by that
House.
An Episcopal chapel, whose minister was qualified ... OLD AND NEW EDINEURGH. [Cowgate. showed that the barrel had been placed so as to collect the rain water from ...

Book 4  p. 246
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Princes Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1783. 119
vincial towns were combined in the case of Edinburgh
She was the titular capital of Scotland, and
as such, was looked up to with pride and veneration
by the nation at large. She was then the
residence of many of the old Scottish nobility, and
the exclusion of the British from the Continent,
during a long, protracted war, made her, either for
business, society, or education, the favourite resort
of strangers. She was the headquarters of the
legal profession at a time when both the Scottish
bench and bar were rendered illustrious by a numbet
of men celebrated far their learning, eloquence, and
wit. She was the head-quarters of the Scottish
Church, whose pulpits and General Assembly were
adorned by divines of great eminence and piety.
Lastly, she was the chief seat of scholarship, and
the chosen home of literature and science north of
the Tweed.?
With the Edinburgh of those days ,and of the
present we have now deal
CHAPTER XVII.
PRINCES STREET.
A Glance at Society-Change of BIanners, &-The Irish Giants-Poole?s Coffee-house-Shop of Constable 8 Co.-Weir?s Muscum, 1794-
The Grand Duke Nichoh-North British Insurance Life Association4ld Tax Office and New Club-Craig of Ricarton-??he
White Rose of Scotland??-St. John?s Chapel-Its Tower and Vaults, &.-The Scott Monument and its MUseum-The Statues of Professor
Wilson, Allan Ramsay, Adam Black, Sir James Sirnpson, and Dr. Livingstone-The General Improvements in Princes Street.
IN 1774 a proposal to erect buildings on the south
side of Princes Street-a lamentable error in taste
it would have proved-led to an interdict by the
Court of Session, which ended in a reference to
the House of Lords, on which occasion Imd
Mansfield made a long and able speech, and the
result was, that the amenity of Princes Street was
maintained, and it became in time the magnificent
terrace we now find it.
Of the city in 1783 some glimpses are given us
in the ?? Letters of Theophrastus,? appended to the
second edition of ?Arnot.? In that year the
revenue of the Post Office was only ~ 4 0 , 0 0 0 .
There were four coaches to Leith, running every
half hour, and there were 1,268 four-wheeled carriages
and 338 two-wheeled paying duty. The
oystercellars had become numerous, and were
places of fashionable resort. A maid-servant?s
wages were about f;4 yearly. In 1763 they wore
plain cloaks or plaids; but in 1783 ?silk, caps,
ribbons, ruffles, false. hair, and flounced. petticoats.?
In 1783 a number of bathing-machines had been
adopted at Leith. People of the middle class and
above it dined about four o?clock, after which no
business was done, and gentlemen were at no pains
to conceal their impatience till the ladies retired.
Attendance at church . was, much neglected, and
people did not think it ?genteel? to take their
domestics with them. ?In 1783 the daughters
even of tradesmen consume the moriings at the
toilet (to which rouge is now an appendage) or in
strolling from the perfumer?s to the milliner?s.
They would blush to be seeri at market. The
cares of the family devolve upon a housekeeper,
?
and Miss employs those heavy hours when she
is disengaged from public or private amusements
in improving her mind from the precious stores of
a circulating library.? In that year a regular cockpit
was built for cock-fighting, where all distinctions
of rank and character were levelled. The weekly
concert of music began at seven o?clock, and
mistresses of boarding-schools, &c., would not allow
their pupils to go about unattended ; whereas,
twenty years before ?young ladies might have
walked the streets in perfect security at all hours.?
In I 783 six criminals lay under sentence of death
in Edinburgh in one week, whereas it1 1763 three
was an average for the whole kingdom in a year.
A great number of the servant-maids still continued
? their abhorrence of wearing shoes and stockings
in the morning.? The Register House was unfinished,
?? or occupied by pigeons only,? and the
Records ? were kept in a dur.geon called the high
Parliament House.?
The High Street alone was protected by the
guard. The New Town to the north, and all the
streets and new squares to the south, were totally
unwatched ; and the soldiers of the guard still preserved
?the purity of their native Gaelic, so that
few of the citizens understand, or are understood
by them ;? while the king?s birthday and the last
night of the year were ?? devoted to drunkenness,
outrage, and riot, instead of loyalty, peace, and
harmony,? as of old.
One of the earliest improvements in the extended
royalty was lighting it with oil lamps; but in
the Adnerh?ser for 1789 we are told that ?while all
strangers admire the beauty and regularity of the ... Street.] EDINBURGH IN 1783. 119 vincial towns were combined in the case of Edinburgh She was the titular ...

Book 3  p. 119
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North Bridge.] THE HORSE POSTS. 355
duction for expenses, among which are A60 for the
Irish packet boat.
In 1708 the whole business of the General Postoffice
was managed by seven persons-viz., George
Main, manager for Scotland, who held his commission
from the Postmaster General of Great
Britain, with a salary of A200 per annum; his
accountant, A50 per annum ; one clerk, d s o ; his
assistant, Lzs ; three letter-runners at 5s. each per
week. The place in which it was conducted was
a common shop.
In 1710 an Act of the newly-constituted British
Parliament united the Scottish Post-office with that
of the English and Irish under one Posttnaster-
General, but ordained that a chief letter office
be kept at Edinburgh, and the packet boats
between Donaghadee and Port Patrick be still
maintained.? The postage of a letter to London
was then raised to 6d. sterling.
In 17 15, James Anderson, W.S., the well-known
editor of D$Zowata Scotie, obtained the office of
Deputy Postmaster-General, succession to
Main, the jeweller. When he took office, on the
12th of July, there was not a single horse post in
Scotland, foot-runners being the conveyers of the
mails, even so far north as Thurso, and so far
westward as Inverary.
(( After his appointment,? to quote Lang?s
privately-printed history of the Post-office in
Scotland, (? Mr. Anderson directed his attention to
the establishment of the horse posts on the Western
road from Edinburgh. The first regular horse
post in Scotland appears to have been from Edinburgh
to Stirling; it started for the first time on
the 29th November, 1715. It left Stirling at z
o?clock afternoon, each Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday, reaching Edinburgh in time for the night
mail for England. In March, 1717, the first horse
post between Edinburgh and Glasgow was established,
and we have details of the arrangement in a
. memorial addressed to Lord Cornwallis and James
Craggs, who jointly filled the office of Postmaster-
General of Great Britain. The memorial states,
that ?the horse post will set out for Edinburgh
each Tuesday and Thursday at 8 o?clock at night,
and on Sunday about 8 or g in the morning, and
be in Glasgow-a distance of 36 miles (Scots) by
the post road at that time-by 6 in the morning,
on Wednesday and Friday in summer, and by 8 in
winter, and both winter and summer, will be in on
Sunday night.? ?
At this period it took double the time for a mail
to perform the journey between the two capitals
that it did in the middle of the 17th century.
When established by Charles I., three days was the
time allowed for special couriers between Edinburgh
and London.
In 1715 it required six days for the post to
perform the journey. This can easily be seen, says
Mr. Lang, by examining the post-marks on the
letters of that time.
In that year Edinburgh had direct communication
with sixty post-towns in Scotland, and in
August the total sum received for letters passing to
and from these offices and the capital was only
A44 3s. Id. The postage on London letters in
the same morith amounted to A157 3s. zd.
In 1717 Mr. Anderson was superseded d Edinburgh
by Sir John Inglis as Deputy-Postmaster-
General in. Scotland, from whom all appointments
in that country were held direct. The letter-bags,
apart from foot-pads and robbers, were liable to
strange contingencies. Thus, in November, I 725,
the bag which left Edinburgh was never heard of
after it passed Berwick-boy, horse, and bag, alike
vanished, and were supposed to have been swallowed
up in the sands between Coquet-mouth and
Holy Island. A mail due at Edinburgh one evening,
at the close of January, 1734, was found in
the Tyne at Haddington, in which the post-boy had
perished; and another due on the 11th October of
the follow?ing year was long of reaching its destination.
? It seems the post-boy,? according to the
CaZedonian Mercury, ? who made the stage between
Dunbar and Haddington, being in liquor, fell off.
The horse was afterwards found at Linplum, but
without mail, saddle, or bridle.?
The immediate practical business of the Postoffice
of Edinburgh (according to the ?( Domestic
Annals ?), down to the reign of George I., appears to
have been conducted in a shop in the High Street,
by a succession of persons named Main or Mein,
?(the descendants of the lady who threw her stool
at the bishop?s head in St. Giles?s in 1637.? Thence
it was promoted to a flat on the east side of the
Parliament Close ; then again, in the reign of George
III., behind the north side of the Cowgate. The
little staff we have described as existing in 171 j
remained unchanged in number till 1748, when there
were added an ? apprehender of letter-carriers,? and
a (? clerk to the Irish correspondents.? There is
a faithful tradition in the office, which I see no
reason to doubt,? says Dr. Chambers, ?that one
day, not long after the Rebellion of 1745, the bag
came to Edinburgh with but one letter in it, being
one addressed to the British Linen Company.?
In 1730 the yearly revenue of the Edinburgh
Office was A I , I ~ ~ , according to (?The State ofscotland;?
but Arnot puts the sum at Aj,399.
In 1741 Hamilton of Innerwick was Deputy ... Bridge.] THE HORSE POSTS. 355 duction for expenses, among which are A60 for the Irish packet boat. In 1708 ...

Book 2  p. 355
(Score 0.83)

486 INDEX TO THE PORTKAITS. ETC .
No . Pagc
Campbell. Mr. John. precentor ...........c civ 95
Campbell. Donald. Esq . of Sonachan.
laughing at the Print of " Petticoat
Government ............................ ccxlix 234
Campbell. Archibald. city officer ....... ccxcv 375
Campbell. Archibald. city officer., ... cccxxix 469
Carlyle. Rev . Dr .............................. ccxi 119
Chairmen. Two ; or"The Social Pinch" ccxcii 367
29
Clerk. John (afterwards Lord Eldin) cccxx 438
Clinch. Mr., in the character of the
Clive. Edward Lord (now Earl of
Powis). Colonel of the Shropshire
Militin ............................... cccxxviii 468
Coach. Lawnmarket; or a Journey along
the Mound ............................ clxxiii 8
Coke. Mr . William. bookseller ........c lxxxii 30
Cole. Rev . Joseph ......................... ccxxvi 161
Colquhoun. Rev . Dr . John. of the
Chapel of Ease (now St . John's
Church). Leith ......................... ccxlv 223
Colquhoun. A., Esq . of Killcrmont.
Lord Advocate of Scotland ....... cccxvii 431
Combe. Harvey Christian. Esq ........ cclxviii 291
Connell. Sir John. Judge of the Court of
Admiralty .............................. cccxx 442
Constable. Arch., Esq., Publisher cccxxix' 473
Convention of Asses ...................... ccclxix 480
Cooper. Mr . James. jeweller ............. cclxv 285
Corbet. Robcrt. Esq . late Solicitor of
Teinda ................................ cccxxvi 464
Councillor. Training a ..................... ccxcv 371
Craft in Danger. The .................... cccxxii 448
Crenstoun. George (now Lord Corehouse)
................................... cccxx 438
Craig. Robert. Esq .of Riccarton. seated
at the door of his own house in
Princes Street ...................... cclxxviii 322
Craig. Willism. Lord Craig .................c cc 380
Culbertson. Rev . Robert. of the Associate
Congregation. Leith ............c. clii 244
Cullcn. Robert. Lord Cullen .........c clxxxii 336
Cullen. Robert. Lord Cullen ................ ccc 380
Cumming. Willism. Esq . banker .......c cxxv 157
Cunninghame. John (now Lord Cunninghame)
........................... cccxxvi 466
Cauvin. Mr . Louis. French teacher ... cccxiv 420
Charles II., Equestrian Statue. .........c. cclv 480
Clerk. Mr . Robert ......................... clxxxi
.. Duke of Braganza ................... ccxli 203
D
DALYESLi~r J . G.. Knight. advocate cccxxvi 465
Davidson. the fish-horn blower ...........c. civ 100
No . Page
Denholme. Mr . James. or " Laird
Denholme .............................. ccxcv 374
Dick. Beetty. town-crier of Dalkeith ... ccxci 365
Dickson. Rev . Dayid. of New North
Church ................................ cclxxiv 310
Dickson. Rev . David. D.D., one of the
ministers of ISt . Cuthbert. or West
Kirk .................................... cccxix 434
Donaldson. Andrew. teacher of Greek
and Hebrew .......................... ccxlvii 227
Dowie. Mr . John. vintner. Libberton's
Wynd .................................... clxxi 1
Duff. Bailie Jamie ........................ clxxiii 9
Duff; Jamie. alias Bailie ..................c lxxv 17
Duff. Jamie. alias Bailie .................... cciv 95
Duff. Sergeant William. of the forty.
second regiment. or Royal Highlanders
.................................... cclxi 269
Duncan. Dr . Andrew. Professor of the
Theory of Medicine ...................... cxc 52
Duncan. Dr . Andrew. in 1797 ............ cxci 54
Dundas. Henry. Lord &Mville ............ ccxi 120
Dundas. Henry. Lord Melville ...........c clvi 257
Dundas. General Francis ................c clxxx 326
Dundas.SirRobt..ofBeechwood.Rart .. cclxxx 328
Dunn. Mra., of the .. Hotel .............c lxxiii 15
Dunsinnan. Lord .............................. ccc 380
E
EGLINTONH. on . Earl of. when Major
of Lord Frederick Campbell's Regiment
of Fencibles ..................... ccxiv 125
Eglinton. Earl of ........................... cclxxx 330
Elder. Provost ................................ cccx 412
Ellis. Old Widow ......................... ccxxiii 154
Elphinstone. Captain Dalrymple Horn.
(Sir Robert). of Horn. Westhall.
and Logie ................................ ccciii 392
Elphinstone. Captain Dalrymple Horn ccciii 393
Erskine. Hon . Henry ..................c lxxxvii 46
Erskine. Hon . Henry ...................... cccxx 444
Crskine. Hon . Andrew .................... cxcii 57
Srskine. Colonel James Francis ......... cccvii 404
Sxamination. The Artist under ......... cclxvi 289
F
~IDDLER of Glenbirnie ....................... cccl 480
pinlayson. Mr . John. writcr iu Cupar-
Fife ................................... cclxxiii 309
"ish- Women. Edinburgh ............. cclxxxiii 338
letcher. Archibald. Esq., advocate ... cccxx 445
'orbes. William. Esq., of Callendar .... ccvii 105
'raser. Major Andrew ...................... cxcii 56 - I ... INDEX TO THE PORTKAITS. ETC . No . Pagc Campbell. Mr. John. precentor ...........c civ 95 Campbell. Donald. ...

Book 9  p. 677
(Score 0.83)

CONTENTS. B
CHAPTER XV.
. THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES. PAGE
SL Giles?s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Wgh and early Norman style-The Renovation of xEzg-History of the StrucsPmcession of
the Saint?s Relics-The Preston Relic-The Chapel of the Duke of Albany-Funeral of the Regent Morray-The ?Gude Regent?s
Aisle?-The Assembly Aisle-Dispute between James VI. and the Church Part-Departure of James VI.-Haddo?s Hole-The
Napier Tomb-The Spire and Iantun--Clak and Bells-The Krames-Restoration of 1878 . . . . . . . 1.38 . .
CHAPTEK XVI.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. GILES?S.
St Giles?s Churchyard-The Maison Dieu-The Clam-shell Turnpike-The Grave of Knox-The City C-The Summons of Pint-
Executions : Kirkaldy, Gilderoy, and othe-The Caddies-The Dyvours Stane-The LnckenboobThe Auld Kirk Style-Byre?s
Lodging--Lord Coaktoun?s Wig-Allan Ramsay?s Library and ?? Creech?s Land?-The Edinburgh Halfpenny . . . . . 1 4
f .
CHAPTEK XVII.
? THE PARLIAMEXT HOUSE.
Site of the Parliament Iiouse-The Parliament Hall-Its fine Roof-Proportions-Its External Aspect of Old-Pictures and Statues-The
Great South Window-The Side Windows-Scots Prisoners of War-General Monk Feasted-A Scene with Gen. DalyeU-The Fire of
17-Riding of the Parliament-The Union-Its due Effects and ultimate good Results-Trial of Covenanters . . . . . 157
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE (continued).
The Faculty of Advocates-The Wr:ters to the Signet-Solicitors before the Supreme Court-The First Lords of Session-The Law Courts-
The Court of Session: the Outer and Inner HousesXollege of Justice-Supreme Judicature Court-Its Corrupt Nature-How Justice
used to be defatec-Abduction of Lord Dune-Some Notable Senators?of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries: Lord0
Fountainhall, Covington, Monboddo, Kames, Hailes, Gardenstone. Amiston, Balmuto, and Hermand . . . . . , I66
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE.
Probable Extinction of the Court of Scion-Memorabiliaof the Parliament Close?and Square-Goldsmiths of the OldenTime-Gearge Heriot-
HIS Workshop-His Interview with James VI.-Peter Williamson?s Tavern-Royal Exchange-Statueof Charles 11.-Bank of Satha-
The Fire of 17-The Work of Restoration-John Row?s Coffee-house-John?s Coffee-house-SylvesterOtwaFSir W. Forbes?s Bank-
6ir Walter Scott?s Eulogy on Sir Willkm Forks-John Kay?s Print-shopThe Parliament ShirsiJames Sibbald-A Libel Gsc-Fire
in Junz IllatDr. Archibald Pitcairn-lhe ?Greping Office?-Painting of King Charles?s Statue White-Seal of Arnauld Lzmmiua 174
CHAPTER XX.
THE ROYAL EXCHAGGE-THE TRON CHURCH-THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 18%
The Royal Exchange-Laying the Foundation Stone-Description of the Exchanee-The Mysterious Statue-The Council Chamber-
Convention of Rayal Burghs : Constitution thereof, and Powers-Writers? Court-The s? Star and Garter ? Tavern-Sir Walter
Scotth Account of the Scene at Clenheugh?s-Lawyers? High Jinks-The Tron Church-History of the Old Church-The Great Fire
of 18z4-1nddents of the ConAagration-The Ruin9 Undermined-Blown up by Captain Head of the Engioew . . . . 183
CHAPTER XXI.
T H E H I G H S T R E E T .
A Place for Blawling-First Paved and Lighted-The Meal and Flesh Market-State of the Streets-Municipal Regnlations 16th Ccntury-
Tulzies-The Lairds of Airth and Wemyss-The Tweedies of Drumrnelzier-A Montrose Quarrel-The Slaughter of Lord T o r t h d d
-A Brawl in 1705-Attacking a Sedan Chair-Habits in the Seventeenth Century-Abduction of Women and Girls-Sumptuary
Laws against Women . , . . - . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . , . 191
CHAPTER XXII.
THE HIGH STREET (continucd).
Thc City in 1598-Fynes Morison on the Manners of the Inhabitants-Tle ?Lord? Provost of Edinburgh-Police of the City-Taylor the
Water Poet-Banquets at the Cross-The hard Case of the Earl of Traquair-A Visit of H-The Quack and his Acrobats-A
Procession of Covenanters-Early Stages and Street Caaches--Salc of a Dancing-girl-Constables appointed in Ip-First Numher of
the Courrmt-The Cnledomian Mercwy-Carting away of the strata of Street Filth-Candition of old Houses . . . . . 198 ... B CHAPTER XV. . THE CHURCH OF ST. GILES. PAGE SL Giles?s Church-The Patron Saint-Its Wgh and early ...

Book 2  p. 387
(Score 0.83)

The Mound.] THE EQUIVALENT MONEY. 85
houses for the French weavers, who, in memory of
their native land, named the colony Little Picardy,
.and thereon now stands Picardy Place. This was
in 1729. The men taught weaving, their wives
and daughters the art of spinning cambric yarn ;
and by the trustees a man well skilled in all the
branches of the linen trade was at the same time
brought from Ireland, and appointed to travel the
country and instruct the weavers and others in the
best modes of making cloth.
'' Secondly, to indemnify for any losses they
might sustain by reducing the coin of Scotland to
the standard and value of England ; and thirdly, in
bribing a majority of the Scottish Parliament when
matters came to the Zasf push.
" Of the whole equivalent, therefore, ono
~40,000 was left for national purposes ; and so lost
to public spirit and to all sense of honour were the
representatives of Scotland, three gr four noblemen
alone excepted, that this balance was supposed to
THE ROYAL INSTITUTION.
Before proceeding further, we shall here quote the
comprehensive statement concerning the Board ot
Trustees which appears in Knox's "View of the
British Empire," London, 17Sg :-
" By the Treaty of Union it was stipulated that
;6398,085 should be paid to the Scots as an
equivalent for the customs, taxes, and excises to be
levied upon that kingdom in consequence of the
English debt, jC~o,ooo,ooo, though estimated at
~17,000,000. This equivalent, if it may be so
called, was applied in the following manner :-
"Firstly, to pay off the capital of the Scottish
India Company, which was to be abolished in
favour of the English Company trading to the East
Indies.
be useless in the English Treasury till the year
1727, when the royal burghs began to wake from
their stupor, and to apply the interest of the
~40,000 towards raising a little fund for improving
the manufactures and fisheries of the country."
'' An Act of Parliament " (the Act quoted before)
'' now directed the application of the funds to the
several purposes for which they were designed, and
appointed twenty-one commissioners, who were
entrusted with the management of the same and
other matters relative thereto."
In Lefevre's Report of July zoth, 1850, it is stated
that "having regard to the origin of this Board as
connected with the existence of Scotland as a
separate kingdom, and to the unbroken series of ... Mound.] THE EQUIVALENT MONEY. 85 houses for the French weavers, who, in memory of their native land, named ...

Book 3  p. 85
(Score 0.83)

160 OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk.
on the verge of destitution ; and DIsraeli writes of
him thus in his ? Calamities of Authors ? :-
?? It was one evening I saw a tall, famished,
melancholy man enter a bookseller?s shop, his hat
flapped over his eyes, his whole frame evidently
feeble from exhaustion and utter misery. The
bookseller inquired how he proceeded with his
tragedy ? ? Do not talk to me about my tragedy I
Do not talk to me about my tragedy! I have,
indeed, more tragedy than I can bear at home,? was
Now all the ground eastward of the Walk to
the Easter Road is rapidly being covered by new
streets, and the last of the green fields there has
well-nigh disappeared, Between the North British
Goods Station and Lorne Street the ground fronting
the Walk belongs to the Governors of Heriot?s
Hospital, while the ground between the latter and
the Easter Road is the property of the Trinity
Hospital. The ground in these districts has been
feued at from A105 to Arzo per acre, for tene-
GREENSIDE CHURCH, FROM LEOPOLD PLACE.
his reply, and his voice faltered as he spoke. This
man was ? Mathew Bramble ?-Macdonald, the
author of ?Vimonda,? at that moment the writer of
comic poetry ! ?
D?Israeli then refers to his seven children, which,
however, is an error, as he had but one child, whom,
with his Wife, he left in utter indigence, whenafter
the privations to which he had been subjected
had a fatal effect on a naturally weak constitution-
he died, in 1788, in the thirty-third year of
his age. A volume of his sermons, published soon
after his death, met with a favourable reception ;
and in 1791 appeared his ?Miscellaneous Works,?in
one volume, containing all his dramas, with ? Probationary
Odes for the Laureateship,? and other pieces.
ments four storeys in height, at an average value
each of from A1,8oo to Az,ooo. Many of these
streets are devoid of architectural features, and
meant for the residence of artisans.
The Heriot feus have tenements valued at from
.&3,000 to A4,000, and contain houses of five and
nine apartments, with ranges of commodious shops
on the ground-floor. During the changes here the
old bum of Greenside has also been dealt with;
and instead of meandering, as heretofore, towards
where of old the Lawer Quarry Holes lay-latterly
in an offensive and muddy course-it is carried in
a culvert, which will be turned to account as a main
drain for the locality.
In the map of 1804 the upper part of Leith.
? ... OLD -4ND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk. on the verge of destitution ; and DIsraeli writes of him thus in his ? ...

Book 5  p. 160
(Score 0.83)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 393
one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and Anne Horn, heiress of Horn
and Westhall, in Aberdeenshire ; and, by the death of his two elder brothers
without issue, he ultimately succeeded to the estates of Horn and Westhall.
In consequence of his marriage, in 1754, with Miss Elphinstone, heiress of Sir
James Elphinstone of Logie, he obtained the estates of Logie, and assumed
the name of Elphinstone. General Dalrymple was, on his death, succeeded by
his eldest son, James, who married Miss Davidson, heiress of the estate of
Midmar, but died without issue. The property then devolved on Captain
Dalrymple. In 1800 he married Grahame, daughter of the late Colonel David
Hepburn of Keith, by whom he had a large family. He was created a baronet
on the 16th of January 1828.
After his accession to the estates, Sir Robert was a steady resident
proprietor, unambitiously, but not the less effectually, promoting the best
interests of the country, by the influence of his presence and example in
devoting his attention more exclusively to those of his own immediate locality.
He was for seven years Convener of the County of Aberdeen ; and, as a landlord,
long enjoyed the reputation of being one of the best and kindest. So
much was he in the confidence of his tenantry, that they generally deposited
their savings in his hands; and no instance was known of his ever having
harassed any of them who might happen to be in arxears.
The Print of the Captain and Miss Macdonald is highly illustrative of the
fashions then prevailing in the bem mondd.
MISS PENELOPE MACDONALD, a lady much celebrated for her
handsomeness of figure, her beauty and accomplishments, was the youngest
daughter of Ronald Macdonald of Clanronald. " Miss Penzie Macdonald," as
she was familiarly called, was married at Edinburgh in March 1789 to William
Hamilton of Wishaw, Esq., whose right to the Peerage of Belhaven was
admitted, ten years afterwards, by the House of Peers.
She left several children, of
whom the late Lord Eelhaven (created in 1831 a British Peer by the title of
Lord Hamilton), was the eldest.
Her ladyship died on the 5th of May 1816.
CCCIV.
THE LOVERS.
THIS Caricature of the CAPTAINa nd MISS MACDONAiLs Da retaliatory production,
the artist's usual method of apologising to those who happened to be
offended by his choice of a subject.
VOL. 11. 3E ... SKETCHES. 393 one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and Anne Horn, heiress of Horn and ...

Book 9  p. 526
(Score 0.83)

34= OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [G-ge Sqmm
over the head with sufficient strength to cut him
down. When this was seen, the casualty was so
far beyond what had ever taken place before that
both parties fled different ways, leaving poor Green
Breeks, with his bright hair plentifully dabbled in
._? blood, to the care of the watchman, who (honest ? man) took care not to know who had done the
mischief. The bloody hanger was flung into
one of the meadow ditches, and solemn secrecy
sworn on all hands j but the remorse and terror of
the actor were beyond all bounds, and his apprehensions
of the most dreadful character. The
wounded hero was for a few days in the infirmary,
the case being only a trifling one; but though
inquiry was strongly pressed on him, uo argument
could make him indicate the person from whom he
had received the wound, though he must have
been perfectly well known to him. When he recovered,
the author and his brother opened a
communication with him, through the medium of a
popular gingerbread baker, with whom both parties
were customers, in order to tender a subsidy in the
name of smart-money. The sum would excite
ridicule were I to name it ; but I am sure that the
pockets of the noted Green Breeks never held so
much money of his own. He declined the remittance,
saying he would not sell his blood ; but
at the same t h e repudiated the idea of being an
informer, which he said was clam-that is, base or
mean With much urgency he accepted a pound
of snuff for the use of some old woman-aunt,
grandmother, or the like-with whom he lived.
We did not become friends, for the bickers were
more agreeable to both parties than any other
pacific amusement; but we conducted them ever
after under mutual assurances of the highest consideration
for each other.??
Lockhart tells us that it was in No. 25 that, at a
later period, an acquaintance took place which by
degrees ripened into friendship with Francis Jeffrey,
born, as we have said, at No. 7, Charles Street,
about 150 yards distant from Scott?s house. Here
one evening Jeffrey found him in a small den on
the sunk floor, surrounded by dingy books, and
from thence they adjourned to a tavern and supped
together. In that den ? he was collecting ?? the
germ of the magnificent library and museum of
Abbotsford.? Since those days,? says Lockhart,
? the habits of life in Edinburgh have undergone
many changes ; and ? the convenient parlour ? in
which Scott first showed Jeffrey his collection of
minstrelsy is now, in all probability, thought hardly
good enough for a tnenial?s sleeping-room.?
There it was, however, that his first assay-piece
a~ a poet-his bold rendering of Burger?s weird
hre-was produced ; and there it was, too, that
by his energy his corps of Volunteer Horse. was
developed. The Ediiiburg4 Herald and Chronicle
for 20th February, I 7 9 7, announced the formation
of the corps thus :-
LrAn offer of service, subscribed hy sixty gentlemen and
upwards of this city and neighbourhood, engaging to serve
as a Corps of Volunteer Lqht Dragoons during the present
war, has been presented to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch,
Lord Lieutenant of the county, who has expressed his high
approbation of the pIan. Regular drilb have in consequence
been established.
? Such gentlemen as wish to become members of this corps
will make their application through &fr. Wulfer Scott,
Advacuft-, Gmrge Square, secretary to the committee of
management.
?The service is limited to Midlothian, unless in case of
actual invasion or the imminent hazard, when it extends to
all Scotland. No member of the corps can be required to
join unless during his residence within the county.?
Of this corps Scott was the quartermaster.
In one of his notes to ?Wilson?s Memorials,?
the cynical C. K. Sharpe says :-?? My grand-aunt,
hfrs. Campbell of Monzie, had the house in
George Square that now belongs to Mr. Borthwick
(of Crookston). I remember seeing from the
window Walter limping home in a cavalry uniform,
the most grotesque spectacle that can be conceived.
NoSody then cared much about his two
German balIads. This was long before I personally
knew him.?
In 1797 Scott ceased to reside in No. 25 on his
marriage, and carried his bride to a lodging in the
second floor of No. 108, George Street ; however,
the last rod he was under in his ?own romantic
town? was that of the Douglas Hotel, St. Andrew
Square, where, on his return from Italy, on the 9th
of July, 1832, he was brought from Newhave4 in
a state of unconsciousness, and after remaining
there two nights, was taken home to Abbotsford
to die. His signature, in a boyish hand, written
with a diamond, still remains on a pane in one
of the windows in 25, George Square, or did so
till a recent date.
On the 19th of June, 1795, Lord Adam Gordon,
Commander of the Forces in Scotland, had the
honour of presenting, in George Square, a new set
of British colours to the ancient Scots Brigade of
immortal memory, which, after being two hundred
years in the Dutch service, had-save some fifty
who declined to leave Holland-joined the British
army as the 94th Regiment, on the 9th October in
the preceding year, under Francis Dundas.
Lord Adam, who was then a very old man,
having entered the 18th Royal Irish in 1746, said,
with some emotion:--? General Dundas and officers
* ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [G-ge Sqmm over the head with sufficient strength to cut him down. When this was seen, ...

Book 4  p. 342
(Score 0.82)

The Water of Leith.] ST. BERNARD?S WELL. 75
To protect it, a stone covering of some kind was
proposed, and in that year the foundation thereof
was actually laid by ?? Alexander Drummond,
brother of Provost Drummond, lately British Consul
at Aleppo, and Provincial Grand Master of all
the Lodges in Asia and Europe holding of the
Grand Lodge, Scotland.? The brethren in their
insignia were present, the spring was named St.
Bernard?s Well, and the subject inspired the local
muse of Claudero.
A silly legend tells how St. Bernard, being sent
on a mission to the Scottish Court, was met with
so cold a reception that, in chagrin, he came to
this picturesque valley, and occupied a cave in
the vicinity of the well, to which his attention was
attracted by the number of birds that resorted to
it, and ere long he announced its virtues to the
people There is undoubtedly a cave, and of no
inconsiderable dimensions, in the cliffs to the westward,
and it is now entirely hidden by the boundarywall
at the back of Randolph Cliff; but, unfortunately
for the legend, in the Bollandists there are
at least three St Bernards, not one of whom ever
was on British soil.
The present well-a handsome Doric temple,
with a dome, designed by Nasmyth, after the Sybils?
Temple at Tivoli-was really founded by Lord
Gardenstone in May, 1789, after he had derived
great benefit from drinking the waters. ?The
foundation stone was laid,? says the Advertiser for
that year, ?? in presence of several gentlemen of the
neighbourhood.? A metal plate was sunk into it
with the following inscription ;-
?< Erected for the benefit of the Public, at the sole expense
of Francis Garden, Esq., of Troupe, one of the senators of
the College of Justice, A.D. 1789. Alexander Nasmyth,
Architect ; John Wilson, Buiider.?
A fine statue of Hygeia, by Coade of London,
was placed within the pillars of the temple. For
thirty years after its erection it was untouched by
the hand of mischief, but now it is so battered
by stones as to be a perfect wreck. Since the
days of Lord Gardenstone the well has always
been more or less frequented. A careful analysis
of the water by Dr. Stevenson Macadam, showed
that it resembled closely the Harrogate springs.
The morning is the best time for drinking it.
During some recent drainage operations the water
entirely disappeared, and it was thought the public
would lose the benefit of it for ever; but after a
time it returned, with its medicinal virtues stronger
than ever.
A plain little circular building was erected in
1810 over another spring that existed a little to
the westward of St. Bernard?s, by Mr. Macdonald
of Stockbridge, who named it St. George?s Well.
The water is said to be the sameas that of the
former, but if so, no use has been made of it for
many years past. From its vicinity to the well.
Upper Dean Terrace, when first built, was called
Mineral Street. In those days India Place was
called Athole Street; Leggat?s Land was Braid?s
Row; and Veitch?s Square (built by a reputable
old baker of that name) was called Virgin?s Square.
The removal of the greater part of the latter,
which consisted of four rows of cottages, thirty in
number, and all thatched with straw, alters one of
the most quaint localities in old Stockbridge. Each
consisted only of a ?but and a ben?-i.e., two
apartments-and in the centre was a spacious
bleaching green, past which flowed the Leith, in
those days pure and limpid. The cottages were
chiefly. if not wholly, occupied by blanchtsseuses,
and hence its name.
The great playground of the village children was
the open and flat piece of land in the Haugh, near
Inverleith, known as the Whins, covered now by
Hugh Miller Place and nine other streets of artisans?
houses.
In past times flour-mills and tan-pits were the
chief means of affording work for the people of
Stockbridge. About 1814 a china manufactory
was started on a small scale on the Dean Bank
grounds, near where Saxe-Coburg Place stands
now. It proved a failure, but some pieces of the
?Stockbridge china? are still preserved in the
Industrial Museum.
As population increased in this district new
churches were required. Claremont Street Chapel,
now called St. Bernard?s Church, was built for
those who were connected with the Establishment,
at a cost of ~4,000, and opened in November, 1823.
Its first incumbent was the Rev. James Henderson of
Berwick, afterwards of Free St. Enoch?s, Glasgow.
About the year 1826, persons connected with
the Relief Church built Dean Street Church in
the narrow street at the back of the great crescent,
and named it St. Bernards Chapel. It was after- ?
wards sold to the United Secession body. In the
year 1843, at the Disruption, the Rev. Alexander
Brown, of St. Bernard?s, with a great portion of his
congregation, withdrew from the Church of Scotland,
and formed Free St. Bernard?s; and, more recently,
additional accommodation has been provided for
those of that persuasion by the re-erection in its
own mass, at Deanhaugh Street, of St. George?s
Free Church, which was built in the Norman style
of architecture, for the Rev. Dr. Candlish, at St.
Cuthbert?s Lane.
Mrs. Gordon is correct in stating that Stockbridge ... Water of Leith.] ST. BERNARD?S WELL. 75 To protect it, a stone covering of some kind was proposed, and in ...

Book 5  p. 75
(Score 0.82)

B I 0 GR AP €1 I C AL S ICE T C HE S. 235
of the Earl and his lady, than he burst out into an immoderate fit of laughter.
The artist, apprised of the visit, was in readiness, and the next portraiture that
appeared was the jolly Laird of Sonachan in the attitude described.
DONALDC AMPBELLE,s q., of Sonachan, in the county of Argyle, was born id
the year 1735 j and in the early part of his life served as a lieutenant in the
first West Fencible Regiment. He afterwards became an active and judicious
agriculturist, and dedicated his whole attention to country affairs. His paternal
estate not being large, he was, soon after quitting the army, appointed Chamberlain
of Argyle, by the late John Duke of Argyle, and subsequently Collector of
Supply for that county-both which situations he held for a period of nearly
twenty years.
He married, in the year 1777, Mary, only daughter of Robert Maclachlan,
Esq., of Maclachlan, by whom he left four sons and two daughters. His
brothers were John, a Captain‘of Cavalry in the East India Company’s service,
killed in India; and Archibald, a subaltern in the British army, killed in
America.
Mr. Campbell died in March 1808, in the seventy-third year of his age.
His eldest son, who succeeded to the property, was for many years a Writer to
the Signet in Edinburgh,
CCL.
AIR. THOMAS SOMMERS,
HIS MAJESTY’S GLAZIER FOR SCOTLAND.
THOMAS SO3f.MERS-the friend and biographer of Fergusson the poet-was
originally from Lanarkshire. He came to Edinburgh early in life ; so early indeed,
that he may be said to have been brought up in the city almost from
infancy. He first became acquainted with Fergusson in 1756, who, then in the
sixth year of his age, was a pupil of Mr. Philp, an English teacher in Niddry’s
Wynd, and who was on terms of intimacy with Mr. Sommers.
After finishing his apprenticeship as a glazier, Sommers proceeded to London.
He was then about twenty years of age ; and shortly after his arrival, as he used
frequently to relate, he had the satisfaction of witnessing the coronation of
George 111. and his consort. In the capital he found good employment for
several years ; and he was enabled, on his return to Edinburgh, to commence
business for himself, by opening a paint and glazier’s shop in the Parliament
Square.
Possessed of an education much superior to most of his contemporaries in
the same station of life, Mr. Sommers soon acquired influence in the manage ... I 0 GR AP €1 I C AL S ICE T C HE S. 235 of the Earl and his lady, than he burst out into an immoderate fit of ...

Book 9  p. 314
(Score 0.82)

according to Bellenden, was now standing boldly
at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life
of the pious monarch in imminent jeopardy, as he
and his horse were both borne to the ground.
With a short hunting-sword, while fruitlessly endeavouring
to defend himself against the infuriated
animal, there appeared-continues the legend-a
silver cloud, from the centre of which there came
forth a hand, which placed in that of David a
sparkling cross of miraculous construction, in so far
that the material of which it was composed could
never be discovered. Scared by this interposition,
the white stag fled down the hollow way between
the hills, but was afterwards slain by Sir Gregan
Crawford, whose crest, a stag?s head erased with
a cross-crosslet between the antlers, is still borne
by his descendants, the Crawfords of Kilbirnie,
in memory of that eventful day in the forest of
Drurnsheugh.
Thoughtful, and oppressed with great awe, the
king slowly wended his way through the forest to
the Castle ; but the wonder did not end there, for
when, after a long vigil, the king slept, there appeared
by his couch St. Andrew, the apostle of
Scotland, surrounded by rays of glory, instructing
him to found, upon the exact spot where he had
been miraculously saved, a fwegfh monastery for
the canons regular of St. Augustine ; and, in obedience
to this vision, he built the noble abbey
of Holyrood, ?in the little valley between two
mountains ?-i.e., the Craigs and the Calton.
Therein the marvellous cross was preserved till
it was lost at a long subsequent period; but, in
memory of St. David?s adventure on Rood-day, a
stag?s head with a cross between the antlers is still
boqe as the arms of the Canongate. Alfwin was
appointed first abbot, and left a glorious memory
for many virtues.*
Though nobly endowed, this famous edifice was
not built for several years, during which the
monks were received into the Castle, and occupied
buildings which had been previously the abode
of a community of nuns, who, by permission of
Pope Alexander III., were removed, the monks,
as Father Hay tells us, being deemed ?as fitter
to live among soldiers.? Abbot M7illiard appears,
in 1152, as second superior of the monks in the
Castrum Puellarum, where they resided till I I 76.
A vehement dispute respecting the payment of
tithes having occurred between Robert bishop of
St. Andrews and Gaufrid abbot of Dunfermline,
it was decided by the king, apud Casielum
PueZZamm, m presence of a great convention, con-
? ? Memorials of Ediiburgh Castle.?
sisting of the abbots of Holyrood and Stirling,
Gregory bishop of Dunkeld, the Earls of Fife and
March, Hugo de Morville the Lord High Constable,
William Lord of Carnwath, David de
Oliphant a knight of Lothian, Henry the son of
Swan, and many others, and the matter in debate
was adjudicated on satisfactorily.
David--?< sair sanct for the crown ? though King
James I. is said to have styled him-was one of
the best of the early kings of Scotland. ?I have
seen him,? remarks Aldred, ?quit his horse and
dismiss his hunting equipage when any, even the
humblest of his subjects, desired an audience ; he
sometimes employed his leisure hours in the culture
of his garden, and in the philosophical amusement
of budding and engrafting trees.?
In the priory of Hexham, which was then in
Scottish territory, he was found dead, in a posture
of devotion, on the 24th of May, 1153, and was
succeeded by his grandson Malcolm IV. who,
though he frequently resided in the Castle, considered
Scone his capital rather than Edinburgh.
In 1153 he appointed Galfrid de Melville, of
Melville in Lothian, to be sheriff of the fortress,
and became a great benefactor to the monks
within it.
In 1160, Fergus, Lord of Galloway, a turbulent
thane, husband of the Princess Elizabeth daughter
of Henry I. of England, having taken arms against
the Crown, was defeated in three desperate battles
by Gilbert de Umfraville ; after which he gave his
son Uchtred as a hostage, and assumed the cowl
as an Augustine friar in the Castle of Edinburgh,
where-after bestowing the priory of St. Marie de
Tray11 as a dependant on Holyrood-he died, full
of grief and mortification, in IIGI.
Malcolm died in 1165, and was succeeded by
William the Lion, who generally resided at Haddington;
but many of his public documents are dated
?Ajud Monasienicnt San& Crzmi de CasteZZo.?
In 1174 the Castle fell, for the first time,
into the hands of the English. William the Lion
having demanded the restitution of Northumberland,
Henry of England affected to comply, but
afterwards invaded Scotland, and was repulsed.
In turn William entered England at the head of
80,ooo men, who sorely I ravaged the northern
counties, but being captured by treachery near
Alnwick, and treated with wanton barbarity and
indecency, his vast force dispersed. A ransom of
AIoo,ooo-an enormous sum in those dayswas
demanded, and the Castle was given, with
some others, as a hostage for the king. Fortunately,
however, that which was lost by the chances of
war was quickly restored by more pleasant means, ... to Bellenden, was now standing boldly at bay, and, with its branching antlers, put the life of the ...

Book 1  p. 22
(Score 0.82)

The Water of Leith.] THE?HOLE I? THE WA?. 77
appointed Limner for Scutland. He always resided
in the old house at St. Bernard?s. The
last pictures on which he was engaged were two
portraits of Sir Walter Scott, one for himself and
the other for Lord Montague. He died, after a
short illness, from a general decay of the system,
on the 8th of July, 1823, at St. Bernard?s, little
more than a stone?s throw from where he was born.
His loss, said Sir Thomas Lawrence, had left a
blank in the Royal Academy, as well as Scotland,
which could not be filled up, By his wife, who
:survived him ten years, he had two sons : Peter,
who died in his nineteenth year ; and Henry, who,
with his wife and family, lived under the same roof
with his father, and to whose children the latter
,of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, of the Imperial
Academy of Florence, of the Royal Academy of
London, and other Societies. The number of
-portraits he painted is immense, and he was still
hale and vigorous, spending his time between his
studio, his gardens, and the pleasures of domestic
3ociety, when George IV. came to Edinburgh in the
year 1822, and knighted him at Hopetoun House.
The sword used by the king was that of Sir
Alexander Hope. In the following May he was
century it was occupied by Count Leslie. Mrs
Ann Inglis, Sir Henry Raeburn?s stepdaughter,
conthued to occupy the house, together with her
sons. In this house was born, it is said, Admiral
Deans Dundas, commander of the British fleet in
the Black Sea during the Crimean war. Latterly
it was the residence of working people, every room
being occupied by a separate family.
In Dean Street there long stood a little cottage
known as the Hole r? the Wu?, a great resort of
school-boys for apples, pears, and gooseberries,
retailed there by old ?? Lucky Hazlewood,? who
lived to be ninety years of age. It was overshadowed
by birch-trees of great size and
beauty.
left the bulk of his fortune, consisting of groundrents
on his property at St. Bernard?s, which, in his
later years, had occupied much of his leisure time
by planning it out in streets and villas.
Old Deanhaugh House, which was pulled down
in 1880, to make room for the extension of Leslie
Place, was the most venerable mansion in the
locality, standing back a little way from the Water
of Leith j a short avenue branching off from that of i St. Bernard?s led to it. About the middle of this ... Water of Leith.] THE?HOLE I? THE WA?. 77 appointed Limner for Scutland. He always resided in the old house at ...

Book 5  p. 77
(Score 0.82)

160 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1st. Andrew Street,
rewarded by the freedom of the city, which was
conferred on him by the magistrates.
The house he occupied in St. Andrew?s Lane
was a small one, and he had an old and very
particular lady as a neighbour on the upper
floor. She was frequently disturbed by the hasty
and impetuous way in which he rang his bell, and
often remonstrated with him thereon, but without
avail, which led to much ill-feeling between them.
At length, on receiving a very imperative and
them by example in buckling on his sword again,
as in his youth he had been a lieutenant in the
army. In 1787 he retired on account of his
health to Dryburgh Abbey, but returning to Edinburgh
again, occupied the house 131 George Street,
and died in 1829.
In St. Andrew Street lived, and died in 1809, in his
sixty-eighth year, Major-General Alexander Mackay,
who in 1803 commanded the forces in Scotland,
and was thirty years upon the staff there. He was
QUEEN STREET.
petulant message one day, insisting that he should
summon his servants in a different manner, great was
the old lady?s alarm to hear the loud explosion of a
heavy pistol in Arnot?s house ! But he was simply
-as he said-complying with her request by
firing instead of ringing for his shaving water.
In 1784 St. Andrew Street was the residence of
David, Earl of Buchan, who in 1766 had been
Secretary to the British Embassy in Spain, and who
formed the Scottish Society of Antiquaries in 1780.
Though much engaged in literary and antiquarian
pursuits, he was not an indifferent spectator of the
stirring events of the time, and when invasion was
threatened, he not only used his pen to create
uniqn among his countrymen, bct essayed to rouse I
usually named ? Old Buckram,? from the stiffness of
his gait, for he ? walked as if he had swallowed a
halbert, and his long queue, powdered hair, and
cocked hat, were characteristic of a thoroughbred
soldier of the olden time.?
Sir James Gibson Craig, W.S., of Riccarton,
occupied No. 8 North St. Andrew Street in 1830.
Proceeding westward, at the north-west corner
of South St. David Street we find the house of
David Hume, whither he came after quitting his
old favourite abode in Janies?s Court. The supenntendence
of the erection of this house, in 1770, was
a source of great amusement to the historian and
philosopher, and, says Chambers, a story is related
in more than one way regarding the manner ?4 ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 1st. Andrew Street, rewarded by the freedom of the city, which was conferred on him by ...

Book 3  p. 160
(Score 0.82)

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