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ST LEONARD’S, ST MARY’S WYND, AND COWGATE. 3’3
name.’ This district anciently formed a part of the town of St Leonards, as it is
styled in the charter of Charles I. confirming the superiority of it to the magistrates
of Edinburgh; and the name of Pleasance, that early superseded its quaint title of
Dearenough, and by which the main thoroughfare of this ancient village is still known,
preserves a solitary memorial of its long extinct convent. Some singularly primitive
erections, which remain on the east side of the street, undoubtedly belong, at the
latest, to the early part of the sixteenth century. A plain but very substantial substructure
of stone is surmounted by a timber superstructure mainly consisting of a
long sloping roof, pierced with irregular windows and loopholes wherever convenience
has suggested an opening; while the whole plan of domestic archit,ecture is evidently
the result of a state of society when it was no upusual occurrence for the villager to
carry off his straw roof along with him, and leave the enemy to work their will on the
deserted walls.’
St John’s Hill and the village of Pleasance form a portion of the long ridge which
skirts the valley at the base of Salisbury Crags. The whole of this ground appears to
have been ecclesiastical property in early times, and appropriated to various religious
foundations, all of which were subject to the canons of Holyrood.s St Leonard’s Lane
bounded it on the south, separating it on that side from the Borough Muir. At the
junction of these lands there stood, in ancient times, a cross, which is understood to have
been erected in memory of one Umfraville, a person of distinction, who was slain on the
spot in some forgotten ~ontest.~T he shaft of the cross had long disappeared, having
probably been destroyed at the Reformation ; but the base, a large square plinth, with a
hollow socket in which it had stood, was only removed in the early part of the present
century. On an eminence at the end of the lane stood the chapel and hospital of St
Leonard, but not a fragment of either is now left, though the font and holy water stoup
remained in Maitland’s time, and the enclosed ground was then Bet apart as a cemetery
for self-murderers. The hospital was one of those erected for the reception of strangers,
and the maintenance of the poor and infirm, and near to it there was another on the road
betwixt Edinburgh and Dalkeith, founded by Robert Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood,
for seven poor people. Of these hospitals, which were governed by a superior who bore
the title of Magister, Spottiswoode enumerates twenty-eight in Scotland at the period of
the Ref~rmation.~S t Leonard’a Chapel was the scene of a traitorous meeting of the
Douglases, held on the 2d of February 1528, to concert the assassination of their
Maitland, p. 176. Piacenza, or Placentia, is now the second town in the Duchy of Parma The Chiirch of S.
Maria di Campagnq belongs to the Franciscan Friars. It was made the subject of special privileges by Pope Urban II.,
owing to his mother being buried there,
A relic of a remoter era, a copper coin of the Roman Emperor Yespasian, was found in a garden in the Pleasance,
and presented to the Society of Antiquaries in 1762.-Account of the Society, p. 72.
8 The following names of property in the neighbourhood of Ediuburgh occur in the Stent Rolls of Holyrood, 1578-
1630 :-‘‘ The Kirkland of Libertoun, the landis callit Pleasance and Deiranewch, the aikeris callit Biedmannis Croft of
Sanct Leonardis gait, the landis of Bonyngtoun, the landis of Pilrig and mmmoun mvir, the landis of Wareistoun, the
landis of Brochtoun, the landis of Coittia, the landis of Sauchtonhd and Sauchton,” &c.-Liber Cartarum, p. cxvii.
4 Maitland, p. 276, Umfraville was the name of an old border family of note, whose Castle of Harbottle, in the
middle marches, passed by marriage into the Talbois family. Margaret, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Thomas Urnfraville,
knight of Harbottle, is mentioned by Wood as married, about 1430, to Sir John Constable of Halaham, arceator of the
Viscounts Dunbar.
,
Spottiswoode’s Religious Houses, p. 291.
2 B - ... LEONARD’S, ST MARY’S WYND, AND COWGATE. 3’3 name.’ This district anciently formed a part of the town of ...

Book 10  p. 341
(Score 0.42)

274 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
THE mansion of the Earls of Iiyndford immediately
adjoined that of the Earls of Selkirk, and the
two edifices were thrown into one to form a
Catholic chopel house, but the former gave its name
to Hyndford's Close. " This was a Scottish peergallant
Lieutenant-Colonel John Campbell, of the
Black Watch, whose memorable defence of Mangalore
from May, 1783, to January, 1784, arrested
the terrible career of Tippoo Sahib, and shed a
glory over the British campaign in Mysore. The
colonel died of exhaustion at Bombay soon after.
Upon leaving Elphinstone Court, his father resided
latterly in George Square, where he died in
June, 1801.
Midway up South Gray's Close, a tall turreted
mansion, with a tolerably good garden long attached
to it, and having an entrance from Hyndford's Close,
was the town residence of the Earls of Selkirkthere,
at least in 1742, resided Dunbar, fourth
Earl (eldest son of Basil Hamilton, of Baldoon),
who resumed the name of Douglas on his succeeding
to the honours of Selkirk. He married a
grand-daughter of Thomas, Earl of Haddington,
and had ten children, one of whom, Lord Daer, on
attaining manhood, became, at the commencement
of the French Revolution, an adherent of that
movement and a "Friend of the People;" and
deeming the article of the Union with England, on
which was founded the exclusion of the eldest sons
of Scottish peers from representing their native
country in Parlianient, and from voting at elections
there, injurious, insulting, and incorrectly
interpreted, he determined to try the question;
but decisions were given against him in the Court
of Session and House of Lords. He pre-deceased
his father, who died in 1799.
The next occupant of that old house was Dr.
Daniel Rutherford, professor of botany, and said
to be the first discoverer or inventor of gas. For
his thesis, on taking his degreesf M.D. at the
university of Edinburgh in 1772, he 'chose a
chemical subject, De Aere Mihifim, which, from
the originality of its views, obtained the highest
encomiums from Dr. Black. In this dissertation he
demonstrated, though without explaining its properties,
" the existence of a peculiar air, or new
age:" says Robert Chambers, " not without its
glories-witness particularly the third earl, who
acted as ambassador in succession to Prussia, to
Russia, and to Vienna. It is now extinct ; its
byoutme, its pictures, including portraits of Maria
gaseous fluid, to wliich some eminent modern
philosophers have given the name of azote, and
others of nitrogen."
That Dr. Rutherford first discovered this gas is
now generally admitted; ahd, as Bower remarks
in his " History of the University of Edinburgh,"
the reputation of his discovery being speedily
spread through Europe, his character as a chemist
of the first eminence was firmly established. He
died suddenly. on the 15th of December, 1819,
in his seventy-first year, and it was soniewhat remarkable
that one of his sisters died two days after
him, on the 17th, and another, the excellent mother
of Sir Walter Scott, within seven days of the latter,
viz., on the 24th of the same month, and that none
of the three knew of the death of the other, so
cumbrous were the postal arrangements of those
days. " Sir Walter Scott, who," says Robert Chambers,
'*being a nephew of that gentleman, was often
in the house in his young days, communicated to
me a curious circumstance connected with it. It
appears that the house immediately adjacent was
not furnished with a stair wide enough to allow ot
a coffin being camed down in decent fashion. It
had, therefore, what the Scottish law calls a servitude
upon Dr. Rutherford's house, conferring the
perpetual liberty of bringing the deceased inmates
through a passage into that house, and down ifs
stair into the lane," thus affording another curious
example of how confined and narrow were the
abodes of the ancient citizens. It was latterly the
priest's house of St. Patrick's Roman Catholic
church, and was beautifully restored by the late
Dr. Marshall, but is now demolished.
In Edgar's 'map of Edinburgh in 1765 the
whole space between the Earl of Selkirk's house
on the west and St. hfary's Wynd on the east, and
between the Marquis of Tweeddale's house on the
north,'nearly to the Cowgate Port on the south, is
shown as a fine open space, pleasantly 'planted
with rows of trees and shrubbery. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. THE mansion of the Earls of Iiyndford immediately adjoined that of the ...

Book 2  p. 274
(Score 0.41)

ST LEONARD’S, ST MARY’S WYND, AND COWGATE. 329
however, that his hostess had a fair and witty daughter, with whom he fell in love, and
forgetting his early sorrows, he married her, and spent the remainder of his life in
Edinburgh. The young couple continued to reside for some time. after their marriage
in the old lady’s house in the Cowgate; and thereafter removing to No. 19 St Andrew’s
Square, Henry Brougham, the future Lord Chancellor of England, was born there in the
year 1779.
Almost directly opposite to St Magdalene’s Chapel, a large and heavy-looking old
mansion faces the street, with a broad arched gateway opening into an enclosed court,
and two entrances from the street to the interior of the mansion, each of them surmounted
with its appropriate legend. Within, a handsome but wofully dilapidated
oaken staircase remains, and the interior exhibits otker traces of bygone splendour,
amid the shreds and tatters of poverty that form the chief tapestry of the old halls of
the Cowgate in modern days. This extensive tenement is t.he mansion built by the
celebrated Sir Thomas Hope, king’s advocate of Charles I., and yet the foremost among
those who organised the determined opposition to that monarch’s schemes for remodelling
the Scottish Church, which led at length to the great civil war. Over one of the doorways
is inscribed, TECVMH ABITA1,6 16, while the lintel of the principal entrance bears
this laconic motto, now so much defaced as to be nearly undecipherable, AT HOSPES
HVMOw, hich proves to be an anagram of the name of its celebrated builder.’ The
philosophy of its old founder’s motto seems to acquire a new force in the degradation that
has befallen the dwelling-place of the crafty statesman, wherein he schemed the overthrow
of the throne and government. In this ancient mansion, in all probability, the
bold councils were held that first checked the unfortunate Charles I., and gave confidence
to those who were already murmuring against his impolitic measures. Here too we may,
with considerable confidence, presume the National Covenant to have been drawn up,
and the whole scheme of policy matured by which the unhappy monarch found himself
foiled alike in the Parliament, the Assembly, and in the decisive Battle of Longmarston-
Moor. In the same house, Mary, Countess of Mar, daughter of Esme, Duke of Lennox,
died on the 11th of May 1644.2 Both Bailie’s Court-at one time the residence of Lord
Kengetand Allison’s Close, which a few years ago was one of the most picturesque
alleys in the Cowgate-are decorated at their entrances with passages selected from the
Psalms, a custom that superseded the older mottoes towards the latter eud of the
seventeenth%?entury. Beyond these, however, there -still remain several tenements of
considerable antiquity and great variety of character; and in particular one old timberfronted
land, with the rude unglazed loop-holes, or shot w i n h s , which were doubtless
The elder Brougham lies buried in Restalrig Churchyard.
.
1 “ If the house near Cowgeat-head, north sgde that street, waa built by Sir Thomas Hope, as is supposed, the inscription
upon me of the lintall-stones supporta this etymologie-[viz., that the Hopes derive their name from Eoublan
the Hop plant, and not from Espemme; the virtue of the mind]-for the anagram is At Hoapea Hum, and haa all the
lettera of Thomas Houpe.”-Coltness Collections, Maitland Club, p. 16.
The “Extracts from the Countess of Mar’s Household Book,” by C. K.
Sharpe, Esq., contains many very curious local allusions, e.g. :-“Jan. 7, 1639.--(fiven to the poor at Nidriea wynd
head, as my Lady cam from the Treasurer deputes [Lord Carmichael], 6 sh. Aug. 1641.-Payit to the cnatome of
the Water Gate for ten horaea that enterit with my La. carryage, 10d. 6 Sept.-To the gardener in ye Abay yard who
presentit to my Laidy ane flour, 6 sh. 16 Sept.-Payit for twa torches to lighten on my Laidy to the Court with my
Laidy Marqueeae of Huntlie, 24 Eh. 1641,-6 Oct. J’ day to ye Abay Kirk broad, aa my Laidy went to the sermon,
6 sh., &e.”
a Sir Thomas Hope’s Diary, p. 205.
2T ... LEONARD’S, ST MARY’S WYND, AND COWGATE. 329 however, that his hostess had a fair and witty daughter, with ...

Book 10  p. 359
(Score 0.41)

THE HIGH STREET. 247
motto :-THE - BEIR - OF - THE * LORD IS THE BIGENEN * OF VISDOM *
I a H *; and another bears a shield of arms, with an inscription partially defaced.
We have not discovered any names among its earlier occupants worthy of note; but
immediately adjoining it, on the site of the west side of Hunter Square, formerly stood
Kennedy’s Close, a scene associated with one of the most eminent among the distinguished
men of early times. In a MS. memorandum book of George Paton, the Antiquary,
the following note occurs :-“ George Buchanan took his last illness, and died in
Kennedy’s Close, first court thereof on your left hand, f i s t house in the turnpike, above
the tavern there ; and in Queen Anne’s time this was told to his family and friends who
resided in that house, by Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, Lord Advocate.” A refereuce
to Edgar’s map shows that the close consisted of two small courts connected by a narrow
passage, the sight of the first of which will exactly correspond with that of the present
Merchants’ Hall. Here the eminent Scottish historian and reformer closed his active and
laborious life on the 28th of September 1582. Finding, when on his deathbed, that the
money he had about him was insufficient to defray the expenses of his funeral, he sent his
servant to divide it among the poor, adding-“ that if the city did not choose to bury him,
they might let him lie where he was.” He was interred on the following day in the Greyfriars’
Churchyard. It iu justly to be regretted that the spot cannot now be ascertained,
notwithstanding that, on an application made to the Towu Council, so recently as 1701,
‘( the through-stane ” was directed to be raised in order to preserve it.’
In the centre of the High Street, in front of the Black Turnpike, the ancient citadel of
the Town-Guard cumbered the thoroughfare till near the close of last century, protected by
its ungainly utility from the destruction that befell many of the more valuable relics of
antiquity. During Cromwell’s impartial rule in Edinburgh, it formed the scene of many
of his acts of guid discipline, causing drunkardis ryd the trie meir, with Btoppis and
muskettis tyed to thair leggis and feit, a paper on thair breist, and a drinking cap in thair
handis.” a This obsolete instrument of punishment, the wooden mare, still remained at
the end of the old Guard-house, when Ray, the Caricaturist, made his drawing of it immediately
before its destruction. The chronicles of this place of petty durance, could they
now be recovered, would furnish many an amusing scrap of antiquated scandal, interspersed
at rare intervals with the graver deeds of such disciplinarians as the Protector, or the
famous sack of the Porteous mob. There, such fair offenders as the witty and eccentric
Miss Mackenzie,’ daughter of Lord Royston, found at .times a night’s lodging, when she
and her maid sallied out disguised as preux chevaliers in search of adventures. Occasionally
even a grave judge or learned lawyer, surprised out of his official decorum by
the temptations of a jovial club, was astonished on awaking to find himself within its
.
1 The following is an extract from the Council Recorda, 3d December 1701 :-“ The Council beinfinformed that the
through-stane of the deceast George Buchanan lyes sunk under the ground of the Greyfriara, therefore they appoint the
chamberlain to raise the same, and clear the inscription thereupon, so aa the same may be legible.”-Bann. Mkc. vol. 2.
p. 401. The sight whereon his dwelling stood would form no inappropriate place for a commemorative tablet tu replace
the lost “ through-stane.” Dr Irving, his biographer, haa strangely persisted, in the face of this evidence, to af6rm that
“his ungrateful country never afforded his grave the common tribute of a monumental atone.”-(Irving’s Life of
Buchanan, p. 309.) A skull, believed to be that of the historian, is preserved in the Museum of the University of
Edinburgh, and is 80 remarkably thin as to be transparent The evidence in favour of thi tradition, though not altogether
conclusive, renders the truth of it exceedingly probable.
* Nicoll’s Diary, p. 69. Ante, p. 169. ... HIGH STREET. 247 motto :-THE - BEIR - OF - THE * LORD IS THE BIGENEN * OF VISDOM * I a H *; and another bears ...

Book 10  p. 268
(Score 0.41)

132 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
defences of the tower were principally directed. The walls are here of very great thickness,
and pierced by a square cavity in the solid mass, for the reception of a sliding beam
to secure the door, while around it are the remains of various additional fortifications to
protect the covered way.
During the same operations, indications were discovered of a pathway up the cliff, partly
by means of steps cut in the shelving rock, and probably completed by moveable ladders
and a drawbridge communicating with the higher story of the Well-house Tower. About
seventy feet above, there is a small building on an apparently inaccessible projection of the
cl3, popularly known as ‘ I Wallace’s Cradle ” (an obvious corruption of the name of the
tower below), which would seem to have formed a part of this access from the Castle to
the ancient fountain at its base. In excavating near the tower, and especially in the neighbourhood
of the sally port, various coins were found, chiefly those of Edward 111. and
Cromwell, in very good preservation. There were also some foreign coins, and one of
Edward I., many f r a p e n t s of bombshells, a shattered skull, and other indications of
former warfare. The coins are now in the Antiquarian Museum, and are interesting
from some of them being of a date considerably anterior to the supposed erection of the
tower.a
The ancient fortifications .of the town of Edinburgh, reared under the charter of James
11.) formed, at this part, in reality an advanced wall of the Castle, the charge of which
was probably committed entirely to the garrison. The wall, after extending for a short
way from the Well-house Tower, along the margin of the Loch, was carried up the Castle
bank, and thence over the declivity on the south, until it again took an easterly direction
towards the ancient Overbow Port, at the first turning of the West Bow, so that the whole
of the Esplanade was separated from the town by this defence. There was in the highest
part of the wall, a gate which served as a means of communication with the town by the
Castle Hill, and was styled the Barrier Gate of the Castle. This outer port was temporarily
restored for the reception of George IT., on his visit to the Castle in the year 1822, and it
was again brought into requisition in 1832, in order completely to isolate the garrison,
during the prevalence of Asiatic cholera.
Previous to the enclosure and planting of the Castle bank and the bed of the ancient
North Loch, the Esplanade was the principal promenade of the citizens, and a road led
from the top of the bank, passing in an oblique direction down the north side, by the
Well-house Tower, to St Cuthbert’s Church, some indications of which still remain. This
church road had existed from a very early period, and is mentioned in the charter of
.
1 The following extracts from the Diurnal of Occurrents, p. 332-3, in reference to the siege of the Castle by Sir
William Drury in 1573 (ante, p. 84), embrace various interesting allusions to the local detail :- “ Wpoun the xxij
day of Maij, the south quarter of the toure of the Castell, callit Dauid’s toure, fell through the vehement and continual1
achuting, togidder with some of the foir wall, and of the heid wall beayd Sanct Margaretia set.
“ Wpoun the xxiiij day, the eist quarter of the said tour fell, with the north quarteris of the port cuheis ; the tour
als callit Wallace tour, with some mair of the foir wall, notwithstanding the Castell men kust thair hand with schutting
of small artailzerie. . . . . Wpoun the xxvj day, the hail1 cumpangis of Scotland and Ingland, being quietlie
convenit at vij houris in the mornyng, passed with ledders, ane half to the blookhous, the vther half to Sanct Katherin’a
eet, on the west syd, quhair the syid wea schote doun.” The Caatle vwa at length rendered by Sir William Kirkaldy
on the 29th of the month. In Calderwood’s History, Wodrow Soc., vol. iii. 281, the followiug occurs, of the same
date :-“Captain Nitchell waa layed with his band at Sanct Cuthbert’a Kirk, to atoppe the passage to St Margaret’a
Well.” Also in “The Inventory of Royal Wardrobe,” dcc,, p. 168,-“1tem, am irne yet for Sanct Margareth’a
t.o ur*, ”A &rcch. wlogia Scotica, vol. ii. pp. 469-477. ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. defences of the tower were principally directed. The walls are here of very great ...

Book 10  p. 143
(Score 0.41)

THE MESSRS, NELSON. 355 The Meadows.]
G. H., cut in wood, remained in Several parts of the
l?ouse. The Rev. Dr. Steven, gpvernor of the
hospital, presented a coloured drawing of the house
to the Messrs. Nelson, as ?the country residence
of the founder of the hospital.? It perished in the
fire of 1878, but another is preserved.
The house was also, about 1800, the abode of an
aged lady, well known to those of Jacobite proclivities
in Edinburgh, Mrs. Hannah Robertson, an
alleged grand-daughter of Charles II., and whose
sister was ancestress of the Mercers of Gorthy.
She died in 1808.
The well-known firm of the Messrs. Nelson and
Sons was originally established by the late Mr.
Thomas Nelson, whose first business premises were
in a small corner shop at the head of the West Bow,
only lately removed, where he published cheap
editions of the ? Scots Worthies,? Baxter?s ?Saints?
Rest,? and similar works; but it was not until
his sons entered the business that the work of the
firm was placed upon a wider basis.
Mr. Nelson was born at a village called Throsk,
near Stirling, in 1780. When twenty years of age
he went to London, and after experiencing his own
share of difficulties, familiar to young men in
pushing their way in the world, he at last entered
the service of a publishing house in Paternoster
Row. This determined the course of his career.
One of his early associates in London was the late
Mr. Kejly, publisher, afterwards raised to the Lord
Mayor?s chair. Mr. Nelson had begun by this time
to show that love for the standard works of the old
theological school which characterised him in afteI
iife. He remained for some years in London, and
then came to Edinburgh, where he soon signalized
himself as a publisher.
Cheap issues are a common feature of the
publishing trade of the country now, but it was
otherwise in the beginning of the century, and he
was among the first to introduce the new order 01
things by the publication of works like those ol
Paley, Leighton, Romaine, Newton, and many
ithers.
For several years in the latter part of his life
le was more or less of an invalid. He died, at the
ige of eighty, on the 23rd of March, 1861. He
.ies buried in Edinburgh in the Grange cemetery,
iext to the grave of Hugh Miller.
The Messrs. Nelsons? range of offices at Hope
Park were on a scale surpassing any similar place
2f business in Edinburgh, as it consisted of three
:onjoined blocks of neat and plain design, forming
as many sides of a square. In the main building
were three floors, and machinery was used
wherever it was available, and by means of that
and an admirably organised system of the division
of labour, the amount of literary work turned out
was enormous. The process of stereotyping, which
was invented by Mr. William Ged, a goldsmith in
Edinburgh, and has been brought to the highest
perfection in the place of its birth, was here greatly
in practice. By 1870 the Messrs. Nelson employed
fully 600 workpeople, the half of whom were young
women, and on theii own premises they manufactured
all the inks used in printing, and the varnishes
for bookbinding.
The whole of their extensive premises were destroyed
by a calamitous fire, after which the Messrs.
Nelson erected new offices and workshops upon
several acres of land, known as Parkside, with a
fine frontage to the old Dalkeith Road, south of
?The Castle of Clouts,? and near what was called
of old the Gibbet TolL
Erected by the Messrs. Nelson in 1881, two
handsome pillars, surmounted respectively by
the Unicorn and Lion, now ornament the entrance
to the Melville Drive at the east end of the
Meadows. These pillars stand near the site of
their former premises, and were erected as a gift to
the city, in commemoration of the kindness and
sympathy shown to tkm by the magistrates at the
time of the great fire.
CHAPTER XLII.
LAURISTON.
The New University B u i l d h ~ l ? h c Estimates and Accommodation-George Watson?s Hospital-Founded-Opened and Sold--The New
Infirmary-Its Capabilities for Accommodation-Simpwn Memorial Hospital-Sick C h i l M s Hospital-Mberdust Maiden Haspitai-
Watson?s SchoobIauriston United Resbyterian Church-St. Catharine?s Convent.
IN the district of Lauriston we find quite a cluster
of charitable institutions ; but before treating of the
more ancient one-Heriot?s Hospital-we shall
describe those edifices which lie between the street
and the northern walk of the Meadows
In the city map of 1787, after Watson?s Hospital, ... MESSRS, NELSON. 355 The Meadows.] G. H., cut in wood, remained in Several parts of the l?ouse. The Rev. Dr. ...

Book 4  p. 355
(Score 0.41)

306 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
from her servitude by his Excellency the Persian Ambassador, during his residence in that city
on his way to England. Embracing the Mohammedan faith, her creed enjoins her to observe the
strictest privacy ; and on no account to expose her features, or even her figure, to any of the male
sex, excepting to particular individuals by the special permission of her lord or protector. *
“I am constrained to confess that her conntenance is far more lovely and interesting than
really beautiful ; and it is a mistaken notion that the Circassian women are the most celebrated
for beauty of any of the inhabitants in the countries round the Caucasus, as it is the Georgian
women who are entitled to this distinction. To attempt a description of the female in question,
we may say with great truth, that her eyes are black and remarkably fine, adorned with arched
black eyebrows, and fringed with long eyelashes of the same colour ; and her whole countenance
is expressive of peculiar modesty and a becoming a d e n c e , that is very pleasing ; and, joined
with a natural and easy politeness, and a sweetness of disposition, renders her altogether a most
interesting young creature. Her teeth are beautiful, and her mouth good, though her lips are
rather thick than otherwise. Her nose is far from handsome. Her hair is a fine, soft, and
glossg jet, which she arranges in a very tasteful manner, and highly becoming her countenance,
which, indeed, is of no ordinary description, and particularly when enlivened with a smile. Her
complexion is brunette, but by no means of 80 dark a hue as the pictures in the Print-shops
exhibit to the public eye ; yet several ladies have asserted that her skin is very soft and clear,
and that a Mush has been frequently seen to mantle over her cheek. She is rather below the
middle stature, and is considered a remarkably good figure for a Circassian, who by art acquire
a very slender waist, which makes them broader about the shoulders than is pleasing to the eye
of a European, and destroys the contours of proportionable beauty. She appeared to be,:about
twenty years of age, though it is said she has only arrived at eighteen. Her dialect is Turkish,
which indeed is the general language of Persia, particularly in the northern parts ; the pure
Persian being considered as the language of the Court of Tehran. She has, however, some knowledge
of this, as well as of the English tongue. The name by which she is:distinguished is Dill
Arurn, which are two Persian words, signifying hean! and quiet; but the more general and
appropriate application corresponds with the small and favourite flower called “Heart’# Ease.”
The writer then goes on to state that ‘‘ it proves the superiority of Dil2 Amcm.
as much as it bespeaks the noble and generous disposition of Mirza Aboul
Hassan Khan, that he not only released her from vassalage, but faithfully
adopted her as the partner of his bosom.” To his Excellency’s affection and
anxiety for her safety the writer attribntes her departure by sea, and considers
it “particularly honourable to his feelings that he would rather forego the
pleasures of her society,” than subject her to the unavoidable constraints and
fatigues of an overland journey. The vessel engaged for her conveyance was a
new coppered brig, the Lord Exmouth, fitted up in a comfortable manner for the
voyage. The fair Circassian was accompanied by the Ambassador‘s two nephews,
Mirza Abul Tallib, and Abbas Begg (the latter of whom was in England with
his Excellency on the former embassy), and other confidential servants.
“ At eight o’clock on Monday morning, the 30th September, three carriages mere in attendance
in the immediate vicinity of the residence of the Ambassador, in Charles Street, Berkeley
Square ; and shortly after the first coach was occupied by three of the Persians who were to
accompany her to Persia. In the second coach was seated the Circassian lady, with three other
Persians, two of whom were the Ambassador’s nephews, and a Persian attendant mounted the
coach-box. The last coach contained Lieut.-Colonel DArcy, of the Royal Artillery, who was a
resident in Persia for five years, aud commanded the military party of the embassy under Sir
Gore Ouseley ; and who, for his eminent and extensive services in that country, was elevated by
the Shah to the rank of Khan, with the title of Alijah or Honourable, and invested with the
Persian order of the Lion and Sun. He was accompanied by Captain George Willock (who is
attached to the present embassy from Persia, and is brother to the British Charge d’Affaires at
Tehran), and also by Mr. Percy, the Persian accountant, who likewise acts as a confidential
secretary. They proceeded along the principal streets on their way to the Artichole Tavern, ... BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. from her servitude by his Excellency the Persian Ambassador, during his residence in ...

Book 9  p. 407
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40 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
Mr. James Haldane preached his first sermon in May 1797, in the village of
Gilmerton, near Edinburgh, then a very neglected spot, and, as now, inhabited
by colliers. Mr. Haldane subsequently attracted great attention, and frequently
has been known to address, in the open air on the Calton Hill of Edinburgh, a
congregation of not less than ten thousand persons, attracted by the novelty of
a layman and Captain being the preacher.
In the summer of 1797, Mr. Haldane made a very extended tour, in company
with his friends Mr. Aikman,’ congregational minister, Edinburgh, and Mr.
Rait, minister of Alnwick, through the northern counties of Scotland and the
Orkney Isles. This tour, partly from the novelty of lay-preaching, and partly
Xr. John Aikman, whose death occurred on the 6th February 1834, was born at Bomwstonnne98
in 1770. When quite a youth, he went out to Jamaica, where his uncle-to whose business and
effects he succeeded-had previously been established in a prosperous commercial concern. While
in Jamaica he had resolved upon establishing a circulating library ; and coming home with the view
of making a selection, happened to observe in a catalogue of books the title of “ Cardiphonia, or
Utterance of the Heart,” which he supposed to be a novel ; and, having purchased it, sat down to
its perusaL To this accidental acquaintance with Mr. Newton’s work he ascribed the awakening of
those strong religious feelings which so decidedly inflnenced his future course. He went out again
to Jamaica ; but, no longer relishing society there, and conceiving the mode in which business was
conducted-all days of the week being alike-to be entirely irreconcilable with Christian principles,
he made arrangements with his partner, and returned home, resolving to devote his life to the cause
of the gospel. He entered on his studies at the College of Edinburgh ; and, after attending the
Divinity Hall for a season or two, began to preach in 1797, by delivering, like Mr. Haldane, his
first sermon at the village of Gilmerton. As already mentioned, he was subsequently engaged,
along with Mr. Haldane, in various itinerating tours through Scotland, in the course of which his
visits were more than once extended north to Caithness and Shetland. Although the “Patoral
Admonition ” of the General Assembly had been levelled against itinerant preaching, he has been
often heard to declare that he was in numerous instances treated with great kindness and respect by
clergymen of the Establishment, and has frequently had the doors of the parish church thrown open
to him. At the Circus he continue4 to share with Mr. Haldane in the duties of the pulpit till
1801, when he built, at his own expense, the Congregational Chapel in Argyle Square (now removed).
Here, as a preacher of the gospel, he discharged his duties faithfully to a large and respectable
body, with few interruptions, his itinerating tours having become less frequent, owing in a great
measure to the state of his health, which at no period had ever been robust. While the French
prisoners of war were confined in the Castle of Edinburgh, and at Greenlaw Barracks, near Penicuik,
he preached to them regularly in their own language-in the speaking of which he had acquired
considerable fluency duriug his stay in the West Indies. On their liberation, a deputation of the
prisoners publicly thanked him for his kind and unremitting attention to their spiritual interestu.
He also received complimentary letters, in name of the Government, from the Secretary of State.
In doing good, Mr. Aikman was never weary. His charity was unbounded, and so readily extended,
that the artful and the knavish frequently took advantage of his generosity. Aa an instance, on the
death of an old woman, who had for many years chiefly existed by his beneficence, upwards of 2300
in cash, belonging to her, was found concealed in the bottom of a clock-case ! Mr. Cleghorn, the
co-pastor of the Chapel, was appointed in 1813. Although very much debilitated, Mr. Aikman
preached for the last time within three weeks of his death. His remains were interred in the
Chapel under the deacons’ seat ; on which occasion an address ww delivered by Mr. Haldane. His
funeral sermon was preached by Mr, Ewing from Glasgow, who, in the course of an interesting
panegyric on the deceased, took occasion to state his belief that, dnring the whole course of his
ministry, Mr. Aikman had never pocketed one farthing by his labours. Besides a good many
charitiea, he left the chapel clear of incumbranaes to the members, with these among other stipulations,
that one-fourth of the seats should be free to the poor, and service performed three times each
Sabbath. The
death of Mrs. Aikman occurred in May 1837,
Mr. William Lindsay Alexander, A.M., was appointed his successor in the ChapeL ... BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. Mr. James Haldane preached his first sermon in May 1797, in the village of Gilmerton, ...

Book 9  p. 53
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1 24 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
anticipated, on the loftiest and least accessible part of the rock on which it is built. Here,
on the very edge of the precipitous cliff, overhanging the Old Town several hundred feet
below, the ancient Royal Palace is reared, forming the south and east sides of a large quadrangle,
called the Grand Parade. The chief portion of the southern side of this square
consists of a large ancient edifice, long converted into an hospital for the garrison, but
which had been ori,ginally the great hall of the Palace. Notwithstanding the numerous
changes to which it has been subjected in adapting it to its present use, some remains of
its ancient grandeur have been preserved. At the top of the principal staircase may be
seen a very finely sculptured stone corbel, now somewhat mutilated, representing in front
a female face of very good proportions, and ornamented on each with a volute and thistle.
On this still rests the original oak beam ; and on either side of it there are smaller beamfl
let into the wall, with shields carved on the front of each. The whole are now defaced
with whitewash, but they afford evidence of the existence formerly of a fine open timbered
roof to the great hall, and it is probable that much more of it still remains, though concealed
by modern ceilings and partitions. From the occasional assembling of the Parliament
here, while the Scottish Monarchs continued to reside in the Castle, it still retain8
the name of the Parliament House.’
The view from the windows on this side of the Palace is scarcely surpassed by any other
in the capital. Immediately below are the picturesque old houses of the Grassmarket and
West Port, crowned by the magnificent towers of Heriot’s Hospital. From this abyss,
the hum of the neighbouring city rises up, mellowed by the distance, into one pleasing
voice of life and industry; while, beyond, a gorgeous landscape is spread out, reaching
almoat to the ancient landmarks of the kingdom, guarded on the far east by the old keep
of Craigmillar Castle, and on the west by Merchiston Tower. Between these is still seen
the wide expanse of the Borough Muir, on which the fanciful eye of one familiar with the
national history will summon up the Scottish hosts marshalling for southern war ; as when
the gallant Jameses looked forth from these same towers, and proudly beheld them gathering
around the standard of (( the Ruddy Lion,” pitched in the massive (( Bore Stane,”’
still remaining at the Borough Muir Head.
The windows in this
part of the quadrangle have been very large, though now partly built up, and near the top
of the building, there is a sculptured shield, much defaced, which seems to bear the Scottish
Lion, with a crown over it. A stone tablet over the arch of the old doorway, with
’
Immediately to the east of this, the royal apartments are situated.
In the Treasurer‘s Acoounta, various items occur, relating to the royal apartmenta in the Castle, e.g. AJJ. 1516, “for
trein werk (timber work) for The Great Haw Windois in the Castell; gret gestis, doubill dalis, &c., for the Myd Chamer
;” and, again, r( to Robert Balye for fluring of the Lordis Haw in Davidis Tower of the Castell in Ed‘ ”-Pitcairn’s
Crim. Trials, Appendix. The Hall is also alluded to in the survey of 1572, and ita locality deacribed aa “On the south
syde wher the haule is,” &c.-Bann. Misc., vol. ii. p. 70. In a seriee of “One hundred and fifty select views, by P.
Sandby,” published by Boydell, there is one of Edinburgh Castle from the south, dated 1779, in which two of the great
hall windows remain ; they are lofty, extending through two stories of the building, as now arranged, and apparently
divided by stone mullions.
Bore Stane, so called from the hollow or Lore into which the staff of the royal standard was placed (vide Marmion,
canto iv. v. 28). About a mile south of this, near the entrance to Morton Hall, is the Eare Stane (confounded by
Maitland, p. 506, with the former). Various stones in Gloucestershire and other districta of England bear the same
name, which an antiquarian friend suggests is probably derived from the Saxun I?&, signifying slaughter, and therefore
indicating the site of an ancient battle. About a mile to the south of this, a huge h i d i c a l mass of red sandstone bears
the name of Buck Stane. The two last are popularly believed to mark the rendezvous of the Court for coursing the
hare or hunting the buck in “ The olden time.”
The coping, supported on stone corbels, still remains a8 in the earliest views. ... 24 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. anticipated, on the loftiest and least accessible part of the rock on which it is ...

Book 10  p. 135
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234 .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
But this ancient alley is the earliest thoroughhre
in the seaport of which we have an authentic
account, as towards the close of the fourteenth
century it was granted, in a charter already quoted,
by Logan of Restalng, the baronial over-lord of
Leith, before it attained the dignity of a burgh,
. to the burgesses of Edinburgh (hence its name) ;
and at the time of its formation the whole imports
and exports of the Leith shipping must have been
conveyed to and fro on pack-horses or in wheelbarrows,
as no larger means of conveyance could
pas? through the Burgess Close.
Its inconvenience appears to have been soon
felt, and the Baron of Restalrig was compelled,
under pressure, to grant his vassals a more commodious
access to the shore. ?The inscription
which now graces this venerable thoroughfare,?
says Wilson in 1847, ?though of a date much
later than its first construction, preserves a memorial
of its gift to the civic council of Edinburgh,
as we may reasonably ascribe the veneration of
some wealthy merchant of the capital inscribing
over the doorway of his mansion at Leith the very
appropriate motto of the city arms. To this, the
oldest quarter of the town, indeed, we must direct
those who go in search of the picturesque.?
The Humane Society of Leith, which was first
instituted in 1788 for the recovery of persons
apparently drowned or suffocated, had its rooms
first in the Burgess Close and Bernard Street.
Water?s Close, which adjoins, has several attractive
features in a picturesque sense, and repulsive ones
in its modern squalor. Tenements of stone and
timber, and of great antiquity, are mingled together
in singular disorder ; and one venerable tenement
of hewn ashlar exhibits a broad projecting turnpike,
with various corbellings, a half-circular turret,
crowstepped gables, and massive chimneys, with
? every variety of convenient aberration from the
perpendicular or horizontal which the taste or
whim of its constructor could devise, and is one
of the most singular edifices that the artist could
select as a subject for his pencil.?
Five low and square-headed doorways of great
breadth show that the whole of the lower storey
had been constructed as a warehouse.
This edifice, with its vaults, is advertised as for
sale in The Edinburgh Advertiser of 1789, and is
described as being in ?Willie Water?s Close, Leith.?
Its vaults are stated to be of stone, and ? the whole
length and breadth of the subject completely
catacombed.?
CHAPTER XXVI.
LEITH-ROTTEN ROW, BROAD WYND, BERNARD STREET, BALTIC STREET, AND
QUALITY STREET.
The Improvement Scheme-Water Lane, or Rotten Row-House of the Queen Regent-Old Sugar House Company-The Broad Wynd-The.
King?s Wark-Its History-The Tennis Court-Bernard Lindsay-Little London-Bernard Street-Old Glass House-How of John
Home-Home and MR. Siddons-Professor Jamieson.
MUCH of what we have been describing in Leith
will ere long be swept away, for after some years
of negotiation, the great ? Leith Improvement
Scheme? has been definitely arranged, and the
loan necessary to carry it out has been granted.
Early in 1877 the Provost drew attention to the
insanitary condition of certain portions of the burgh,
more especially the crowded and central area lying
between St. Giles?s Street and the Coal Hill. In the
area mentioned the death rate amounted to twentysix
per thousand., or five per cent above that of
any other part of Leith, while the infantile mortality
reached the alarming rate of fifty-six per
thousand.
It had been found that the power conferred on
the local authority of levying an improvement rate
under the Police Act, was quite inadequate for the
purpose of improving an area so extensive; thus
attention was drawh to- the Artisans? Dwelling
House Act, as a measure which might satisfy the
requirements of the seaport, and two schemes, one
of which included a large district, were condemned
by the ratepayers as expensive and unsuitable.
The Town Council then ordered the preparation
of a plan likely to secure the objects in view, at a
cost which would not prove oppressive to the
inhabitants, and this scheme was ultimatelyapproved
cf by the Home Secretary. Its main feature will
be the ultimate opening up of a street fifty feet
wide, from Great Junction Street to the Tolbooth
Wynd, by the way of Yardheads, St Giles?s and St.
Andrew?sStreets, andin the course ofits construdtion,
three-quarters of a mile in length, no fewer than
eighteen ancient closes will be removed, while the
streets that run parallel ? to Yardheads will be
widened and improved. ... .OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith But this ancient alley is the earliest thoroughhre in the seaport of which we ...

Book 6  p. 234
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Newhaven.] ?OUR LADY?S PORT OF GRACE.? 295
1815 it was changed to a revolving light, as at
present. Its elevation is 235 feet above the waterline.
On the 1st October, 1835, thereflecting light was
discontinued, and a dioptric light was put in its
place, It consists of seven annular lenses, which
circulate round a great lamp having three concentric
wicks and produce brilliant flashes once in
every minute, and of five rows of curved mirrors,
which, being fixed, serve to prolong the duration
of the flashes from the lenses. The appearance of
the new light does not, therefore, differ materially
from that of the old one-save that the flashes
which recur at the same periods, are considerably
more brilliant, and of shorter duration. In clear
weather the light is not totally eclipsed between
the flashes at a distance of four or five miles, and
it is visible at the distance of eighteen nautical
miles. . The expense of this lighthouse in 1839 was
The old light of 1803~ with all its apparatus, was
purchased by the Government of Newfoundland,
and is still in use on Cape Spear, near the Narrows
of St. John.
A467 14s. sd.
C H A P T E R XXV.
NEWHAVEN.
Cobbett on Edinburgh-Jam- IV.5 Dockyard -Hi Gift or Newhaven to Edinburgh-The Gnat Mick&Embarkation of Mary of G b
Works at Newhaven in the Sixteenth Century-The L i V k u n t Newhaven-The Feud with Preston-The Sea Fencibles-
Chain Pier-Dr. Fairbairn-The Fishwives-Superstitions.
IT may not be uninteresting to quote, the ideas
entertained of Edinburgh by an English visitor in
the first years of the nineteenth century, as he was
-in his time-considered a typical John Bull,
I now come back to this delightful and beautiful
city,? wrote William Cobbett in his RegWr.
I thought Bristol, taking in its heights and Clifton
with its rocks and river, was the finest city in the
world; but it is nothing to Edinburgh, with its
castle, its hills, its pretty little seaport detached
from it, its vale of rich land lying all around, its
lofty hills in the background, its views across the
Firth. I think little of its streets and its rows of
fine houses, though all built of stone, and though
everything in London and Bath is begary to these ;
I thing nothing of Holyrood House ; but I think a
great deal of the fine and well-ordered streets of
shops ; of the regularity which you perceive everywhere
in the management of business ; and I think
still more of the absence of that foppishness and
that affectation of carelessness and insolent assumption
of superiority in almost all the young men you
meet in the fashionable parts of the great towns in
England. I was not disappointed, for I expected
to find Edinburgh the finest city in the kingdom. . . . The people, however, still exceed the
place; here all is civility; you do not meet with
rudeness, or with the want of disposition to oblige,
even in the persons of the lowest state of life. A
fiend took me round the environs of the city ; he
had a turnpike ticket, received at the first gate,
which cleared five or six gates. It was sufficient
for him to tell the gate-keepers that he had it.
When I saw that, I said to myself, ?Nota bene:
gate keepers take people?s wordin Scotland,? a thing
I have not seen before since I left Long Island.?
Now its seaport is no longer (? detached,? but has
become an integral part of Edinburgh, and all the
vale of rich land? between it and the Forth to
Granton, Trinity, and Newhaven, is covered by a
network of fine roads and avenues, bordered by
handsome villas.
Newhaven now conjoined to Leith, and long
deemed only a considerable fishing village, lies two
miles north of Princes Street, and yet consists
chiefly of the ancient village \;hich is situated,
quoad civilia, in the parish of North Leith, and
whose inhabitants are still noted as a distinct community,
rarely intermarrying with any other class.
The male inhabitants are almost entirely fishermen,
and the women are employed in selling the produce
of their husbands? industry in the streets of the city
and suburbs. Intermarriage seems to produce
among them a peculiar cast of countenance and
physical constitution. The women, inured to outdoor
daily labour in all weathers, are robust, active,
and remarkable for their florid complexions, healthy
figures, and regular features, as for the singularity of
their costume.
In the fifteenth century this village was designated
? Our Lady?s Port of Grace,? from a chapel dedicated
to the Virgin Mary and St. James, some
portions of which still exist in the ancient or
unused burial-ground of the centre of the village.
The nearly entire west gable, with a square window
in it, can still be seen in the Vennel, a narrow ... ?OUR LADY?S PORT OF GRACE.? 295 1815 it was changed to a revolving light, as at present. Its elevation ...

Book 6  p. 295
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THE LA WNMARKE T. I59
the latter building, consisted of a rudely executed ogee pediment, containing the city
arms, and surmounted by three tron weights. On Queen Mary’s entry to Edinburgh in
1561, this was the scene of some of the most ingenious displays of civic loyalty. Her
Majesty dined in the Castle, and a triumphal arch was erected at the Weigh-house, or
“ butter trone,” where the keys of the city were presented to her by “ane bony barne,
that descendit doun fra a cloude, as it had bene ane angell,” and added to the wonted
gift a Bible and Psalm-book-additions which some contemporary historians hint were
received with no very good grace.’ Cromwell established a guard in the older building
there, while the Castle was held out against him in 1650, and prudently levelled it with
the ground on gaining possession of the fortress, lest it should afford the same cover to
hiis assailants that it had done to himself. The latter erection proved equally serviceable
to the Highlanders of Prince Charles in 1745, when they attempted to blockade the Castle,
and starve out the garrison by stopping all supplies. The first floor of the large done
land, in front of Milne’s Court, was occupied at the same period as the residence and guardroom
for the officers commanding the neighbouring post ; and it is said that the dislodged
occupant,--a zealous Whig,-took his revenge on them after their departure by advertising
for the recovery of missing articles abstracted by his compulsory guests. The court
immediately behind this appears to have been one of the earliest attempts to substitute
an open square of some extent for the narrow closes that had so long afforded the sole
town residences of the Scottish gentry. The main entrance is adorned with a Doric entablature,
and bears the date 1690. The principal house, which forms the north side of the
court, has a handsome entrance, with neat mouldifigs, rising into a small peak in the
centre, like a very flat ogee arch. This style of ornament, which frequently occurs in
buildings of the same period, seems to mark the handiwork of Robert Milne, the builder
of the most recent portions of Holyrood Palace, and seventh Royal Master Mason, whose
uncle’s tomb,-erected by him in the Greyfriars’ Churchyard,-records in quaint rhymes
these hereditary &onours :-
.
Reader, John Milne, who maketh the fourth John,
And, by descent from father unto son,
Sixth Master-Mason, to a royal race
Of seven succesaive kings, sleeps in thia place.
The houses forming the west side of the court are relics of a much earlier period, that
had been delivered from the durance of a particularly narrow close by the march of fashion
and improvement in the seventeenth century. The most northerly of them long formed
the town mansion of the lairds of Comiston, in whose possession it still remains ; while that
to the south, though only partially exposed, presents a singularly irregular and picturesque
Ante, p. 71. “Quhen hir grace come fordwart to the butter trone of the said burgh, the nobilitie and convoy foirsaid
precedand, at the quhilk butter trone thair waa ane port made of tymber, in maiat honourable maner, cullorit with
fyne cullouris, hungin with syndrie armem ; upon the quhii port w88 singand certane barneia in the maiat hevinlie via;
under the quhilk port thair wea ane cloud opynnand with four levis, in the quhik waa put and bony barna And quhen
the queues hienes waa cumand throw the said port, the said cloud opynnit, and the barne dscendit doun as it had beene
ane angell, and deliuent to her hienes the keyis of the toun, togidder with ane Bybd and ane Paalme Buik, couerit with
fyne purpourit veluot ; and efter the said b eha d spoken aome small speitches, he deliuerit alsua tu her hienea thw
writtin@, the tennour thairof is vncertane. That being done, the barne ascendit in the cloua, and the said dud stekit j
- and thairefter the quenia grace come doun to the to1bnith.”-Diurnal of Ocurrenta, p. 68. ... LA WNMARKE T. I59 the latter building, consisted of a rudely executed ogee pediment, containing the ...

Book 10  p. 173
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THE WEST BOW AND SUBURBS. 343
when the Lords of the Congregation I‘ past to Halyrudhous, and tuik and intromettit with
the irnis of the c~nzehous.~. ~
The general aspect of the Grassmarket appears to have suffered little change for above
two hundred years. One of the most modern erections on its southern side is that immediately
to the west of the Templar Lands we have just described, which bears on a tablet
over the entrance to Hunter’s Close, ANNO. DOM . MDCLXXI . It is not likely to
be soon lost sight of, that from a dyer’s pole in front of this old tenement Captain
. Porteous was hung by his Lynch-law judges A.D. 1736. . The long range of buildings that
extend beyond this, present as singular and varied a group of antique tenements as either
artist or antiquary could desire. Finials of curious and grotesque shapes surmount the
crow-stepped gables, and every variety of form and
elevation diversifies the sky line of their roofs and
chimneys; while behind, the noble pile of Heriot’s
Hospital towers above them a8 a counterpart to the
old Castle that rises majestically over the north side
of the same area’ Many antique features are yet
discernibIe here. Several of the older houses are built
with bartizaned roofs and ornamental copings, designed
to afford their inmates an.uninterrupted view of the magnificent pageants that were
wont of old to defile through the wide area below, or of the gloomy tragedies that were
so frequently enacted there between the Restoration and the Revolution. One of thesej
which stands immediately to the west of Heriot’s Bridge, exhibits a very perfect
specimen of the antique style of window already frequently referred to. The folding
shutters and transom of oak remain entire below, and the glass in the upper part is Bet in
an ornamental pattern of lead. Still finer, though less perfect, specimens of the same
early fashion, remain in a tenement on the north side, bearing the date 1634. It forms
the front building at the entrance to Plainstane’s Close-a distinctive title, implying
its former respectability as a paved alley. A handsome projecting turnpike stair bears
being thairin.”-Diurn. of OCC. p. 269. Humble as this nook appears, it is possible that it may be a fragment of the
Regent Murray’s lodging.
1 The careful and elaborate history of Heriot’s Hospital, by Dr Steven, renders further investigation of its memorials
unnecesaary. Tradition assigns to Inigo Jones the merit of having furnished the beautiful design for the Hospital,
which is well worthy of his genius. If so, however, it has been carried‘out in a modified form, under the direction
of more modern architects. “May 3 t T h e r e is a
necessity that the steeple of the Hospital be finished, and a top put thereupon. Ro. Miln, Master Mason, to think
on e drawing thereof, against the next council meeting.” The master mason doea not appear to have thought to good
purpose, as we find recorded the following year :-“July 10.-Deacon Sandilans to put a roof and top to the Hoepital’s
ateeple, according to the draught condescended upon be Sir William Bruce.” In one of Captain Slezer’s very accurate
general view8 of Edinburgh, published towarda the close of the 17th century, Heriot’s Hospital is introduced 88 it
then appeared, with the plain square tower over the gateway, and near to it the Old Oreyfriars’ Church, with the
tower at the west end, aw it stood previous to 1718, when the latter waa accidentally blown up by gunpowder, which
had been deposited there for aafety. A view of the Hospital, by Glordon of Rothiemay, which was engraved in
Holland before 1650, is believed to aford an accurate representation of the original deeign. The aame is engraved in
the fourth edition of Sleser’s views, under the name of Bogengkht. In thia view, the tower is surmounted by a lofty
and beautiful apire, carrying out the idea of contrast in form and elevation which appears in the reat of the dedign,
much more effectively than the dome which has been substituted for it. The large towers at the angles of the building
appear in this view covered with ogee roofs, in mora questionable tsste. Several entries in the Hospital %cords seem
to imply that two of the four towers had been completed according to this idea, and afterwards altered. The Recorda
afford evidence of frequent deviations from the original design being sanctioned, even rfter auch parta of the building
were 6niahed according to the plan.
The following entry occurs in the Hospital Recorda for 1675. ... WEST BOW AND SUBURBS. 343 when the Lords of the Congregation I‘ past to Halyrudhous, and tuik and ...

Book 10  p. 375
(Score 0.39)

High Street.] PHILIP STANFIELD. 281
(presumed) Custom House of ice^ running out of it,
with something under his coat. There can be no
doubt that this was the murderer, and the description
given coincided exactly with the appearance
of Mackoull, Although the boy heard of the murder
before he lkft Leith, he never thought of communicating
what he had seen to the authorities ; he was
shortly after captured and carried to a French prison,
where he remained for many years. Mackoull resided
in Edinburgh from September, 1805, till the
end of 1806, lodging very near the scene of the
murder, and was a frequent visitor at the coffee-
It was raised from the grave, after it had lain
there two days, and the surgeons having made an
incision near the neck, became convinced that
death had been caused by strangulation, so all
supposition of suicide was abandoned. This examination
took place in a church. After the cut
had been sewn up, the body was washed, wrapped
in fresh linen, and James Row, merchant in Edini
burgh, and Philip Stanfield, the disinherited son,
lifted it for deposition in the coffin, when 10 ! on
the side sustained by Philip an effusion of blood
took place, and so ample as to defile both his hands.
printers and publishers.
The World?s End Close was the curious and
appropriate name bestowed upon the last gloomy,
and mysterious-looking alley on the south side of
the High Street, adjacent to the Netherbow Port,
when it lost its oXer name of Sir John Stanfield?s
Close.
At the foot of it an ancient tenement, has a shield
of arms on its lintel, .with the common Edinburgh
legend-?Praisze. the. Lord. for.all.His.giftis,M.S. ;I?
but save this, and a rich Gothic niche, built into a
modern ?land ? of uninteresting aspect, nothing remains
of Stanfield?s Close save the memory of the
dark tragedy connected with the name of the knight.
Sir Jaines Stanfield was one of those English manufacturers
who, by permission of the Scottish Government,
had settled at Newmills, in East Lothian.
He was a respectable man, but the profligacy of
Philip, his eldest son, so greatly afflicted him that
he became melancholy, and he disinherited his heir
by a will. On a day in the November of 1687 he
was found drowned, it wafi alleged, in a pool of
water near his country house at Newmills. Doubts
were started as to whether he had committed
suicide, in consequence of domestic troubles, or had
been murdered. The circumstances of his being
hastily interred, and that Lady Stanfield had a suit
of graveclothes all ready for him before his death,
?seemed to point to the latter; and two surgeons
? Tiditions and Antiquities of Leith.?
36
November, 1806, Mackoull was seized with convulsions,
and threw himself back on his bed and
began to rave.
Tweeddale House, after being quitted by the
British Linen Company for their new office in St.
after handled by the murtherar, it will ;ushe out of
blood, as if the blood were crying to heaven for
revenge of the murtherar.?
Accordingly, on the 7th of February, 1688,
Philip was brought to trial at Edinburgh, and after
the household servants had been put to torture
without eliciting anything on the strength of the
mysterious bleeding, according to Fountainhall, save
that he was known to have cursed his father, drunk
to the king?s confusion, and linked the royal name
with those of the Pope, the devil, and Lord Chancellor,
he was sentenced to death. He protested
his innocence to the last, and urged in vain that
his father was a melancholy man, subject to fits;
that once he set out for England, but because his
horse stopped at a certain place, he thought he saw
the finger of God, and returned home ; and that he
once tried to throw himself over a window at the
Nether Bow, probably at his house in the World?s
End Close.
Philip Stanfield was hanged at the Market Cross
on the 24th of February. In consequence of a slip
of the rope, he came down on his knees, and it was
necessary to use more horrible means of strangulation
His tongue was cut out for cursing his
father ; his right hand was struck off for parricide ;
his head was spiked on the East Port of.Haddington,
and his mutilated body was hung in chains
between L.eith and the city. After a few days the
body was stolen fiom the gibbet, and found lying
in a ditch among water. It was chained up again,
time groaning in great anguish, and refusing to
touch the corpse again, while all looked on with
dismay. The incident was at once accepted by
the then Scottish mind in the light of a revelation
of Philip?s guilt as his father?s murderer. ?In a
Andrew Square, became, and is still, the establish- 3 I ment of Messrs. Oliver and Boyd, t!ie well-known
secret niurther,? says King James in his ? Damonology?-?
if the dead carkasse be at any time there ... Street.] PHILIP STANFIELD. 281 (presumed) Custom House of ice^ running out of it, with something under his ...

Book 2  p. 281
(Score 0.39)

388 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
2307 33O7 3447.3501 359s
at er, 11. 255; hls fat er
house, 11. 340, *PI; his mdkk
11. 142, 340; his various resi
dences, 11. 163 -164, 165 111.
359; @~study,'II. 163; las; resi
dence in bdtnburgh, 11.210 ; hi!
birthplace, 11.251~255 ; his par
trait, 11. 254; his arms, 11. *a54
his school Me, 11. 293, 294, 326
111. 8 ; his childhood 11. 30
burial-place ofhisfamil;, 11. 383
hls first love ib.; his son, 11,
294 ; his dauihter 11.165
Scott, Anne (sir &alter Scott'!
daughter), 11. 165
Scott of Balcomie, General, 11.191,
201, 269, 111. 42, 307; anecdote
of, 11. 191 ; his wife, 111. 124
Scott of Bavelaw 111. 331
Scott of Branxhoim, Sir Water, I.
194
ScottofBuccleuch Sir Waiter,]. zz:
Smtt of Cauldhou& 11. 2.9
Scott of Harden, Slr Wllliam, I.
Scott'of Kirkstyle I. 210
Scott ofMalleny;i.hefamiIyof, 111.
a02 111. 136
. .
334,335
Scott of Scotstanit, Sir John, I.
167, zm, 11. 3, 223, Ill. 135,199,
ScottbfThirlstane SirFrancis,I.z71
Scott ofThirlstan;, Patrick, 11. a y
Swtt. Lieut.-Col. (Sir Walter'sson),
2903 317. 343, 364
11. 294
Scott, David, the painter, 11. 92,
111. 68, 78, 223
Scott ohn Miracle of, 11. 55, 56
Scottl dicLe1, ?1.
Scott: William. Greek professor.
111; 15 .
16~
k t t centenary, The first, 11. 150,
scb;'is Close, 11.271
kott's monument, I. *r 11. 126,
127, *12g ; statnetteson'it II. 1z1
Scottlsh Academv of Paint& 11. -.
90s 9'
Scottish Antiquar$n Society, 1.
Scottlsh Baptist meeting-house,
Scottrsh Barrack office 11.42
Scottish Chamber ofA&ulture, I.
Scottish currency, Value of the, in
258, 270
+le Square, 11.274
291
1707, 1.270
Scottish Episcopal chapels, I. 278
Scottish Episcopalians, The, I. 239,
Scottish Equitable Asurance Sc-
Scottish Hentable Security Com-
111. 231
ciety, 11. 170
PanY 11. I53
Scottish Horse Guards The I. 5'
Scottish judge+ Emhent, i. 167,
Scottish Liberal Club 11. 125
Scottish matrons, S& spirit of,
169-173
Sck?sh Miniitem' Widows' Fund,
ScottLhmonarchs, Portraits of the,
11. 378
11. 73, 74,177
Scottish National Fire and Life
Scottish Naval anh Militarv
Assurance Company 11.168
Academy, 11. 138
Scottish MV~, Formation of a, 111.
Sc%h Provident Institution, 11.
168
Scottish Records State of I. 367
11. 119 ; the& removal' to thi
Register House, I. 368
Scottish ReformationSocietp I. 294
Scottish Rights Association i1. 150
Scottish Roscius, The, I. ;47 ; his
Scottiih School of Design 11. 86
ScottishTemplars, Trialsifthe, 11.
ScotkhTreacury Room, The, 1.178
Scottish Union and National Inwife
ib.
46 50, 51, 111. 130
surance Company, 11. 170, 171 * 172
Scottish Universities Act, 111.24
Scottish Vulcanite Company, I1
Scotttsk Widows' Fund, 11. 1%
Scou&l, John, the painter, I. 22:
Sculptured stone, Newhaven, I1
Sea Penctbles The 111. 303
Seafield Cha&ello: I. 163
Seafield' Earl of 11: 33 111. 191
Seafield' Leith ill. 14; 263 266
Seafie1d'Hous;and B a d , Hi. 26c
Seafield Toll 111. 286
Sea-fight in k i t h harbour. A. 111
219, 220
168 172
223, 11. 90
299 *3?
duel on the site of rb.
, . r83,-184
the, 11. 307-310
Seaforth Highlanders, Revolt (
Seaforth, Kenneth Mackenzie. Ea
of 11. 307, 3 9
Seaiorth, Franci Lord, 111. IOI
Seal of Edinburgh, The Commox
his son, i6.
1. *a
Se&an'sHospital, Leith, 111.22:
Seamen, Wages of the Leith. 111
278
Leith 111. 278
Seamen's Friendly Society, Th
Seaton,'Sir Alexander, I. 167
Seceders, 'lhe, 1. 323,325, 333
Secession and Relief Church=
Union of the 111. 88
Secret subtenahean pLssages,Edii
burgh Castle, I. 82
Secretary's Register The I. 370
Sedan chairs, Use o( in Edinburgl
11. 120, 343 ; number of in 1775
11. 282 ; fracas resulting from th
useof, 111. 13
Sederunt, ~ c t s oP I. IW 11.315
Seqave, Sir Johdde, Ilk 351
Selkirk. Earl of, I. 274, 373 11.144
166,205,III. 122; mansion ofthc
1. *273, 274, '276, 11. 246, 249
Selkirk Countess of, 11. 335
Sellars"Ciose, I. 55
Semple, Lords, I. 91,92,11.3oo,35
Semple's Close I. 91
Senate Hall, Edinburgh University
111. 23, 24, 27
Session, Court of, I. 166, 167, 337
11. 174; probable extinction a
the, I. 174
Seton, Lord, 11. 35, 52 ; Lady, 111
52, 53.
Seton, Sir Alexander, III.49,318
Seton family, The, 111. 53, 54, 24
>ton House I1 35
Seven sist2;s oi Borthwick."The
I. 36
%mow Lord Webb 11.347
SbakesGe Club Tie, 111.126
Shakespeare in dinburgh, 11.39
Shakespeare Square, I. 218, 340
343, 336, 47, 3531 11. 176, 336
337 ;new 20, the back of, 1. *34!
Shandwick Place, 11. z q , 210
Shank I. 254
Sharp:, James, Archbishop of St
Andrews, 1. 215 259; his son':
residence, 111. 385
Sharpe of Hoddam Charles Kirk
patrick, 11.191, I&, 193, 243,342
111.99, IZO, 131, 230 ; saleofhir
curiosities, 11. 193
Sharpe of Hoddam, Mrs., 11. 26
Shearsmith, The first, 11. 26
Sheephead Wynd, Leith, 113 227
Shellycoat, The demon, Ill. 282
Shepherds' Ha' 111. 144
Sheridan, the a&, I.
Sheriff Brae, or Shirra &ge, Leith,
111. 247 248 250 ~51,*253,zBs
Sheriff Coirt, i. 166
Sheriff Court Buildings, I. 294, 29:
Sheriff Hall, 111. 16 , 963
ship Hotel,Theold,fxtth, III.rg5,
245 246. the new 111. 245 246
;hipduildiAg at LeAh, Newkven,
&c. 111.281
jhip&ng, Numberof, in Leith, 111.
188 'go 276 277; lawsrespening'the
i11. ;75
jhipmast'ers' Widows' Fund, The,
111. 278
jhoemakers' C!ose, 11. 10, 19
Shoemakers' Lands 11. g 10
Shore, The, Leith,' 111. '177, 184
'94, 1959 207, 209, 21% 227. 22g
Short'Sanh The 111. 282
Short's O&rvat&y, I. 87, 91, I1
'05
ShrubHill 111. 155 163
Sibbald- Si Rohert i 123 167 201
304,&, 363,II. ;4;, I I i . r6;,33:
Sibbald, James, booksellexand anu
quary, I. 181 111. 154
Siddons Mrs.: 1. 108, 343, 344
amusing anecdote of, 111. 24a
Siddons, Henry, 1. 348, 11.125~17:
Siddons, Mrs. Henry, I. 348, 349
350,351,111. 158,159 ; her grand
father, I. 351
Sidey Dr. J. A. 11. 305,347
Signe;, Keeper df the I. 367, $8
librarian of the (sm Ikng, David
Silvermills, The, 11. 117, 182, 111
Sd~~nrulls House, 111.
Sirnon Master of Lovat, 9.3z57, 251
Simon'square, 11.337
Simond, theFrenchtraveller, 11.18:
Simony, Practice of 111. 116
Simple, Robert, the'player, 11. 9
Simpson, Professor Sir Jame
'156, &,170,315,362, III.79,xa
Simpson the architect, 111. 339
Sinclair 'EVI w i l l i I. 661 ; hi
prince& I.&?,III.&7; hisstyb
oflivini ib.
Sinclair(o; St. clair) family, E ~ I !
history of the, 11. 247,111. 34
Sinclairof Dunbeath, Sir John, If1
63 ; Dame, 111. 62, 63
Siclair, Si John, the agriculturist
11. 17, 120, 126, 144, 172; hi
daughter Catherine 11. 126 165
Sinclau, Sir William, k d the kigt
School affray of 1595, I. no
111 297.
Siucl;ir of Roslin, Sir William, 111
354
Sinclair, Henry first Lord, 11. 251
Sinclair ot Ulbster George 11.30:
Sinclair of Murkle: Lady, iI. 188
Sinclair, John, Bishop of Brechin
Sinclair, Lady Janet, 11. 17~ IM
Sinclair ofstevenaon, Lady, 11. 33:
Sinclair, Catherine, 11. 126, 165
Kinclair, Margaret, 11. 165
Sinclair, the actor, I. 350
Sinclair Fountain, The, 11. 126
Kiclair's, Professor, " Satan's In.
viribleWorld Discovered."I.~z8.
236 238 245,246, 247, PhtC 31
345 ; $er popularity, 1. 345, 346
8- 84.
Young 11. 130. 153, 154, 155
I. 121
Street 11. *r64
Six FeeiClub The 111. 125. 326
jkene, M a j o r h d r a l Robert, 11.
310
jkene of Rubislaw Sir W. Scott's
friend 11.98 163'III.86,145,3jq
jkenes :f CurAehiil, The, 111.334,
Sir Jam- and Sir John, 11.302,
4kinners The 11. 264,111. z
jkinner'i Cl&, I. 139, 266, 167,
3aney's Hotel, I. 222
ilnteford, I. 323, 111. 326
jlaughterhousea, The city 11. 218
ilezer, Captain, author ofl" Theatrum
Scotire," 11. ,367, 111. 350
heaton's Clore Leith 111. 226
hellie, Williad, thepkter, I. 235,
236,383.11. 87, 1p0 111.31
imellie, the naturalist: 11. 311
imith, Provost Sir John, I. 102, no,
11 "
I.II.334, 335
11.247
i%h; Lord Chief Baron, Episcopal
chapel founded by I. 262 11.247
imith, Adam, I. 114 156, i36, 273,
11. 17, 21, 161, 194, 111. 240;
residence of, 11. 21 ; graye of,
with, Alexander, the poet, 111.
102, 30!
Nmith George, I. 113 *117; rob- be4 in concern whh Deacon
Hrodie, I. 113-115
mith, Sydney, 11. 203
11. 29
Smith, Dr. John, the physician, 11,
SZA the banker, Deathof, 11.18,
Smollett, Tobu., I.@, 155,239,lI.
26 127, 111. 262. his sister 11.
26'; his wife, ib. f his h o d , 11.
-e '"
Smythe Sir Jeremiahand theDutch
Snuff-taking in church, an offence,
fleet, i. 58,111. re8
11. 133
Society Close, I. 213, -14
SocietyofEdiburghGolfers III.31
Society for the PropagaAon of
Chrlstian Knowledge, I. 214, 359
Society Port, The, II.231,234,268,
2% 274, 346
Soldiersof EdinburghCastle, Tomb
in memoryof 11. 30
Soldiers first iuartered in Leith,
III. '931 I94
Solicitors before the Supremecourt,
Library of I. 123
Solway, ad of 11.37
Solway, Rout &, 11. 64,65
Sothern the actor, 1. 351
Somers"tavern I. 120
Somerset Dulce of I, 43
Somervilie, Lards,'I. 150, 155,183.
316,II. 161 111. 346
Somervjlle fai!nily, The, 111. 346
Somerville Bartholomew, I. 97, 314
Somerville: Major, and Capt. Crawford
Encounter between I. 95
Somerhle mansion The i. 314
Sounding-boards I i 32d
South back of ;he Longate, 11.
238, 245
South Blacket Place 111. 55, 56
South Bridge, I. 24;. 373-382, 11.
139,238 251 274 282 2 8, 334,
359, I d . I&; %e ;or8 commenced,
I. 374; valueof thesite,
ib.
South Bridge Street I 374 111.23
South Castle Street '11: 82 '165
South Clerk Street,'III. 5;
SouthCollegeStreet 1I.330,111.23
South Foulis' Close,'I. 276
South Frederick Street 11. 92
South Gray's C l m 1. ;673 274
South Leith, 111. r&, 165, 166,188,
South Leith, b+dge of, 11. 47
South Leith bunal-ground, 111.171
South Leith Freechurch, 111.1~8,
South Leith Poor-house 111.249
South Lach,The, 1. 8, h . 2 7
South Hanover Street, 11. 162, 192
South Niddry Street, 11. 251
South St.Andrew Street II.99,159
South St. David Street.'II. oz. 160
193, 210, 21
266
, ~. -162
Southern Market The, 11. 346
Southfield 111. I&
Spalding Pund. The, 11. 92
Spalding Peter 11. 92
Spaldina: the dtorian. 11. 10. 111. . _. . .
211
Spence, Thomas, Bishop of Aber-
Spence Willim I. 59 6a
Spendthrift Clud, I.he,'III. r z ~
Spjttal, Sir James, 11. 215
Spittal Street, 11. 215, 223
Spattiswc.de, Archbishop, I. 287,
298, 11. 39, 111. 2x9 ; hls house,
I. 208
Spottigwoode I. 166
Sputtkwood 'John, Superintendent
of Lothid I. 46 208
Spottkwood Road,'I11. 46
Springfield, 111. 356, 360
Springfield Street, 111. 163
Spur, The, Edinburgh Castle, 1.36,
Spylaw 111. 34
Spynie'Lord I. mg IIZ. 113
St. Andrew the Apoitle I. 261
St. Asdrew'saltar. Hol;rwd. 11. z8
deen, I. 300, 301
49, 5x1 52, 54, 86, 218
St. Andrew's Chapel, 'Carrubbeis
St. Andrew's Church. Geom
Close, I. 239.11. 242
Street, 11. 120, 144, *145, 14,
17' ; interior of, 11. 148
9t. Andrew's Hall, 1. 302
St. Andrew's Lane, 11.160
3t. Andrew's Port, I. 366
3. Andrew's Square, I. 2r7, 222,
267, 279, 11. 110, 118, 136, 161, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. 2307 33O7 3447.3501 359s at er, 11. 255; hls fat er house, 11. 340, *PI; his ...

Book 6  p. 388
(Score 0.39)

360 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge
they occupied when obtained, that we are tempted to
conclude the genteeler part of the congregations in
Edinburgh deem the essential duties of religion to
be concentrated in holding and paying rent for so
many feet square in the inside of a church."
- Lady Glenorchy, whom Kincaid describes as '' a
young lady eminent for good sense and every
accomplishment that could give dignity to her
rank, and for the superior piety which made her conspicuous
as a Christian," in 1772 feued a piece of
ground from the managers of the Orphan Hospital,
at a yearly duty of d15, on which she built her
chapel, of which (following the example of Lady
Yester in another part of the city) she retained the
patronage, and the entire management with herself,
and certain persons appointed by her.
In the following year she executed a deed,
which declared that the managers of the Orphan
Hospital should have liberty (upon asking it in
proper time) to employ a preacher occasionally in
her chapel, if it was not otherwise employed, and
to apply the collections made on these occasions
in behalf of the hospital. On the edifice being
finished, she'addressed the following letter to the
Moderator of the Presbytery of Edinburgh :-
" Edin., April zgth, 1774.
"REVEREND SIR,-It is a general complaint that the
churches of this city which belong to the Establishment are
not proportioned to the number of its inhabitants, Many
who are willing to pay for seats cannot obtain them ; and no
space is left for the poor, but the remotest areas, where few of
those who find room to stand can get within hearing of any
ordinary voice. I have thought it my duty to employ part
of that substance with which God has been pleased to
entrust me in building a chapel within the Orphan House
Park, in which a considerable number of our communion
who at present are altogether unprovided may enjoy the
benefit of the same ordinances which are dispensed in the
parish churches, and where I hope to have the pleasure of
accommodating some hundreds of poor people who have
long been shut out from one of the best and to some of them
the only means of instruction in the principles of our holy
religion.
" The chapel will soon be ready to receive a congregation,
and it is my intention to have it supplied with a minister 01
approved character and abilities, who will give sufficient
security for his soundness in the faith and loyalty to Govern
ment.
"It will give me pleasure to be informed that the Pres.
bytery approve of my design, and that it will be agreeable tc
them that I should ask occasional supply from such ministen
and probationers as I am acquainted with, till a congregatior
be formed and supplied with a stated minister.-I am, Rev,
Sir, Src '' W. GLENORCKY."
The Presbytery being fully convinced not onlj
of the piety of her intentions, but the utility o
having an additional place of worship in the city
unanimously approved of the design, and in May,
1774, her chapel was opened by the Rev. Robert
Walker of the High Church, and Dr. John Erskine of
the Greyfriars ; but a number of clergy were by no
means friendly to the erection of this chapel in any
way, on the plea that the footing on which it was
admitted into connection with the Church was not
sufficiently explicit, and eventually they brought the
matter before the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Lady Glenorchy acquainted the Presbytery, in 1775,
that she intended to place in the chapel an English
dissenting preacher named Grove. The Presbytery
wrote, that though they approved of her
piety, they could give no countenance whatever to
a minister who was not a member of the Church of
Scotland; and Mr. Grove foreseeing a contest,
declined the charge, and now ensued a curious
controversy.
Lady Glenorchy again applied to the Presbytery,
wishing as incumbent the Rev. Mr. Balfour, then
minister of Lecroft; but he, with due respect for
the Established Church and its authority, declined
to leave his pastoral charge until he was assured
that the Presbytery of the city would instal him in
the chapel. The latter approved of her selection,
but declined the installation, unless there x-as a
regular " call " from the congregation, and security
given that the offerings at the chapel were never to
be under the administration of the managers of the
charity workhouse.
With this decision she declined to comply, and
wrote, " That the chapel was her own private property,
and had never been intended to be put on the
footing of the Establishment, nor connected with it
as a chapel, of ease to the city of Edinburgh ; That
having built it at her own expense, she was entitled
to name the minister : That she wished to convince
the Presbytery of her inclination, that her minister,
though not on the Establishment, should hold communication
with its members : That, with respect
to the offerings, everybody knew that she had a p
pointed trustees for the management of them, and
that those who were not pleased with this mode of
administration might dispose of their alms elsewhere;
adding that she had once and again sent part of
these offerings to the treasurer of the charity workhouse."
A majority of the Presbytery now voted her reply
satisfactory, agreed to instal her minister, and that
he should be in communion with the Established
Church, '' Thus," says h o t , who seems antagonistic
to the founders, " did the Presbytery give every
mark of countenance, and almost every benefit
arising from the Established Church, while this institution
was not subject to their jurisdiction ; while ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [North Bridge they occupied when obtained, that we are tempted to conclude the ...

Book 2  p. 360
(Score 0.39)

36 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canongate
4? History of Music j ? Dr. Gregory ; David Xllan ;
Lord Cromarty; and many others who have left
$heir ?? footprints on the sands of time.?
There, too, is the grave of the ill-fated Fergusson
the poet, above which is the tombstone placed
at the order of Robert Burns by Gowans, a marble-
-cutter in the Abbey Hill, ?to remain for ever
sacred to the memory of him whose name it bears,?
with the inscription Bums penned :-
? HERE LIES ROBERT FERGUSSON.
Born Sept. sth, 1751. Died October 16th, 1774.
No sculptured marble here, nor pompous lay,
This simple stone directs pale Scotia?s way
No stoned urn nor animated bust ;
To pour her sorrows o?er her poet?s dust.?
Here, on the 16th of Tune, , -
? Henry Prentice. Died . . . .
Be not curious to know how I lived ;
But rather how yourself should die.?
He was, however, eventually interred at Restalrig.
At least three tenements of three storeys each
would seem to have occupied the site of the church.
One of the picturesque relics of the past in
Edinburgh is the old Canongate Tolbooth, with its
sombre tower and spire, Scoto-French corbelled
turrets, huge projecting clock, dark-mouthed archway,
its moulded windows, and many sculptured
stones. Above the arch is the inscription-
S. L. B.
PATRIA ET POSTERIS 1591 ;
and in a niche are the usual insignia of
1821, Sir Walter Scott att the burgh, the stag?s head and- cross,,
the funeral of John Ballantyne, with the motto SIC ITUR AD ASTRA, while
.and displayed considerable emo- the appropriate niotto ESTO FIDUS surtion.
?He cast his eyes along mounts the inner doorway to the court-
-the overhanging line of the Calton house. At the south-east comer is the
Hill, with its gleaming walls and old shaft of the cross and pillory, near
towers, and then turning to the the entrance to the police-station.
.grave again, ?I feel,? he whispered it is a fine example of the
fices of the reign of Janies
VI. In the tower are two bells,
in Lockhart?s ear, ?I feel as
if there would be less sun-
-shine for me from this day one inscribed SOLI DEO HONOR ET
forth.? 2y GLORIA, 1608, and a larger one,
In May 1880 there was cast in 1796. Between the stately
erected here a monument windows of the Council
.of rose-coloured granite, Hall is a pediment sur-
Wenty-six feet high, by Mr. mounted by a great thistle
Ford of the Holyroad Glass and the legend :-
-Works, ?? In memory of the J. R 6. JUSTITIA ET PIETAS
burgh Castle, situated in , FERGUSSON?S GRAVE. Herein the magistrates
soldiers who died in Edin- VALIDE SUNT PRINCIPIS ABCES.
.the Parish of Canongate,
interred here from the year 1692 to 1880.? It
k very ornate, has on its base sculptured trophies,
-and was inaugurated in presence of General Hope,
his staff, and the 71st Highlanders. Prior to its
erection the spot where so many soldiers have
.found their last home was only a large square patch
covered by grass.
In the ?? Domestic Annals ? we find recorded the
.death, in 1788, of Henry Prentice, by whom the
field culture of the potato was first introduced into.
the county of Edinburgh, in 1746. He had made
.a. little money as a travelling merchant, was an
.eccentric character, and in 1784 sunk A140 with
the managers of the Canongate poorhouse for a
weekly subsistence. He had his coffin made, with
the date of his birth thereon, 1703, and long bad
his gravestone conspicuously placed in the burgh
churchyard, inscribed thus :-
who came as successors
of the abbots of Holyrood as over-lords of the
burgh, held u-eekly courts for the punishment of
offenders, the adjustment of small debts, and
the affairs of the little municipality. That the
building is older than any of the dates upon it, or
that it had apredecessor, the following extracts from
the ?? Burgh Records ? attest :-
?? Vndecimo decembris, an : 1567.
?The quhilk day it was concludit, be the Baillies and
Counsall, to pursew quhatsomever person that is known and
brutit wt the breking of the Tolbooth of this burcht, the
tyme of the furth letting of Janet Robertsoun, being werdit
within the samyn, &c.?
In 1572 the following item occurs :-
?TO sax pynonis (pioneers?) att the Baillies *command
for taking doun of the lintel-stone of the Ruld Tolbooth
window-iij-s vi-d.?
In 1654 several Scottish prisoners of war, con ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Canongate 4? History of Music j ? Dr. Gregory ; David Xllan ; Lord Cromarty; and many ...

Book 3  p. 30
(Score 0.39)

16171,782 283, 335, 343 343
III, 140; dew of, II. 169
vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it!
early residents, 11. 166
St. Andrew Street 11. I 160, 161
St. Andrew's Stree;, LeitcIII. 226
m71228 234
St. Ann, the tailors' patron saint, I.
23
St. Rnne-s altar Holyrood 11. 58
in St. Giles'sbhurch I1.'266
St. Anne's altar, St.' Cuthbert'r
Church, 111. 94
St. Anne's Yard, 11. 76,79,3~3,3q
St. Anthony's Chapel Arthur s Seat,
I. 3 6 ; ruinsof, li. *3m *321
St. Anthony's Fire, or &ipelas,
111. 215 216
St. Anthoiy's Hermitage, I. m, 11.
303, 19, 111. 216
St. Ant%ony's Port, Leith, 111.151
SI. Anthonys preceptory, Leith,
its seal,
St. Anthonir Street, Leith, 111.
St. Anthony's Well, 11. 312, 319,
St. Anthony's Wynd,Ldth,III.z~s
St. Augustine Chapel of 11.53
St. Augustine4 Church i. zgz.zg4
St. Bennet's, Greenhill,' 111. 54
SL Bernard's Chapel, 111.75
St. Bernard's Church, 111. 75
St. Bernard's Crescent, 111. 71. p,
St. Bernard's parish, 11. 92, 135,
St. Bernard's Row, 111. 94, 97
St. Bernard's Well, III.74,75. *76,
178, 17% 2yi, ~2
111. 131, 175, 176, 215
111. '216 217 298
"178 V a
322
73, 79,81
111.77
78
58,251. !II. 49
0s LI. #5
St. Catharine's altar, Holymod, 11.
St. Cathenne of Sienna, Convenl
St. Cecilii hall, I. 151, *a5z, II.
St. Christopher's altar, St. Giles's
St. Clair Lord 1. 16g
St. Clai;of St.'Clair, General, 111.
175
Church, 11. 264, 111. a
n z
St. Clair of Roslin William, 11.
354 (sec sinclair dar~ William)
St. colme Street '11. 105
St. Columba's Ekcooal Church. I. . *
9 5 .
Church, 11. 6 3 , 264
St. Crispin's altar, St. Giles's
St. Cuthbert, Bishop of Durham,
11. 13r
295
St. Cuthben's chapel of ease, 11.
St. Cuthben's Church. Pkatc I. I.
incumbents, 11. 131;. the old
manse, 11. 132 ;demolition of the
old church, 11. 134, 136 ; erection
of the new building, 11. 134 ; the
old and new churches, 11. 131
'133, * 136, * 137 ; burials unde:
thesteeple 11. 135; theoldpoorhouse,
11.'135, 111. 83
St. Cuthbert's Free Church, 11.225
St. Cuthbert's Lane, 11. 335
St. David Street, 11. 16r, '65
St. David's Church, 11. ar6
St. Eligius, patron of the hammermen,
11.962
St. Eloi, 11. 263: carved groin
stone from Chapel of, St. Giles's
Church, I. * 147, 11. 262
St. Eloi's eo-. 11. 262
St. George's 'Church: Charlotte
St. Georie's Episco$l chapel, 11.
Square 11. 115, 126 173, 175
'90
St. Geor e's Free Church, 11. 138,
St. George's Well 111. 75
St. Giles, the pation saint of Edinburgh,
I. 138, 141, 254: seal of,
I. * 140 ; procgsiou of the saint's
relics I. 140
St. GilehChurch, 1. *I, 42,47, so,
51, 52.55, ~ 6 7 8 ~ 9 4 , IV. xm, Iax,
123, 138-147, 152, 18% 186, rga,
11. 15, 957 234, 3167 37% 111. 31,
z10,115. 75
GENERAL INDEX.
51, 173, 184; its early history
I. 138 139; the Norman door
way, i. 139, 141' the Preston
relic, I. 140; Sir DAvid Lindesaj
on the rocessionists, I. 141,
chapel ofsobert Duke of Albany:
I. 142; funeral of the Regent
Murray, I. 143; the "gude
Regent's aisle," rb. ; the Assem.
blyaisle, I. 144; disputes between
am- VI. and the Church party, I. 144,146'departureofJamesVI.
I. 146 ; Haddo's hole, ib. ; thi
Napier tomb, id. ; the spire and
lantern, I. '144, 146; theclock
and bells, I. 146 ; the Krames, I.
147 ; restorations of 1878 ib. ;
the or an, ib. ; plan of St. kiles's
Churcf I. *1452 the High
Church' 1. *I 8 149; removal
of hone;: from f f. 384
3t. Giles's Chdchyard, I. 148, 149,
157 11. 379
31. Ghes's Grange, 111. 47, 49, 52,
54 ;, its vicar, 111. 49
3t. Giles's Kirkyard, 11. 239
3t. GilesStreethow PrincaStreet).
I. 286 11. 11;
3t. Gd&s Street, Leith, 111. 223,
226 234
3t. Jimes's chapel, Newhaven, 111.
216, 295, 298, p; remains of,
3t. James'schapel,Leith, III.*240,
111. 297
243
3t. ams'sOpw=opalchapel 11.184
jt.jame~'sEp~opalChurcd,Leith,
111. *241, 243
3t. James's Square, I. 366. 11. 176, . _ _ . .~
19.
3t, lohn the Baotist's Chaoel. 111. . . si, 53
St. John's altar, St. Giles's Church,
II.26?,65
3t.John sCatholicChapel, Brighton
St. Johks chapel, Burghmuir, 111.
Place 111. 147
126, 134, d, 338, 383
3t. John's Established Church, I.
291
Leith 111. *n44
jt. John's Established Church,
jt. Johr;'s Free Church I. z 5, 314
Zt. John's Free Church,'Leiti, 111.
j t T p Hill I. 82
It. ohn's Stdet, 1. 325, 11. 2, 9,
jt. Katherine of Scienna, Convent
2, 53, 329 ; ruins of,
jt. Kathanne's altar, Kmk-of-Field,
jt. Katharine's altar, St. Margaret's
It. Katherine's chapel, Currie, 111.
jt. Katherine's estate, 111. 330
it. Katharine's Place, 111. 54
it. Katharine's Thorn, 11. 363,
it. Katherine's Well, Liberton, 111.
25, 26 27, 31, 111. 63
of 111. 51
IiI. *S4 ; 12 history, ib. ; seal of,
111. *55.
111. I
chapel, Libaton, 111. 53
332
111.54
328, 3291 330
chapel of I 383, 384
it. Leonard, Suburb of, I. 382;
it. Leonard's 'craigs, I. 75, III. 27,
142
it. Leonard's Hill, I. 55, 384, 11.
34 ; combat near, I. 383
it. Leonard's, Leith, 111. 227
it. Leonard's Kirkyard, 11.379
it. Leonards Loan, I. 383
it. Leonard's Well, 111. 89
it. Leonard's Wynd, 11. 54
it. Luke's Free Church, II.r53,.r55
it. Magdalene's Chapel, I. 240
it. Margaret, I. 16, 18, I
it. Margaxet's Chapel, adinburgh
Castle, I. 19, *zo, 76; chancel
arch of I. *24
it. Margset'sconvent, III.45,'48
it. Margaret's Loch, 11. 319
it. Margaret's Tower, Edinburgh
it. Margaret's Well, Edinburgh
Cade. I. 36, 48, 78
Castle, I. 49
St. Margaret's Well, Restalrig, 11.
St. LIC~ chapel &nLtarian), II.
11, 313, 111. I2 131
214
St. Mark's Episcopal chapel, Port*
bello 111. 147 *153
St. M L j Magdhene chapel, New
Hailes 111. 149, 366
St. M& Magdalene's Chapel, 11.
258, 261, 26a *a64' mterior 11.
264 : tabled on the walls,' 11.
262 *268
St. MkMagdalene's Hospital, 11.
26r, 262
St. Mary's Cathedral 11. 116, 211;
exterior and interior, 11. *ZIZ,
'213
St. Mary'sChapel, Niddry's Wynd,
St. M&s Ckpel, broughton
Street, I. z6z
St. Mary's Church, South Leith,
111. 130, 135, 182, 196, *217,218,
* z ~ o 222 244 ; its early hatory,
I. 247 251, 298 11. 26
III.;I8 :19
St. Mary'; Convent I. 107,382
St. Mary's Free Ch$ch 11. 184
St. Mary's Hos ita1 I. :97
St. Mary's-in-t\e-$ield 11. '34
251, 252, III. 1 7 ; its history:
111. I, a
St. Mary's parish church, 11. 191 ;
school-house, 111. 87
St. Mary's Port, 1. 382
St. Mary's Roman Catholic chapel,
St. Maryi Street' I. p 11. 238
St. Mary'sWynd,' 1.38, A, 217,219,
274. 275 * 29.298,2 I 335,375
382, 11. ;3, 249.~84~1%. 6 ; door!
head in 1. *3m
St Matth:w'sWell, Roslio,III. 3 I
St. Michael's Church, Inveres?c,
St. Nicholas Church North Leith,
111. 168, 176, 187 :its demolition
by Monk, 111. 187 255
St. Nicholas Wyud, fII. 256
St. Ninian's altar, St. Giles's
Church, 111. 119
St. Ninian's Chapel, I. 364, 111.72
St. Ninian's Church, North Leith,
11. 47, 111. 167 *I# 251 aga;
pe,tv tyrann in, iii. 25;; its
ministers IIE 254, 2 5 5 ; now a
g r a n a r y , ' ~ ~ ~ . 254,255
St. Niuian's Churchyard 111. *256
Sc. Ninian's Free Churih, North
Leith, 111.255
Si. Ninian's Row, I. 366,II. 103,176
St. Patrick Square, 11. 339
St. Patrick Street, I. 366, 11. 346
St. Patricks Romao Catholic
Church, 1. 278, 11. 249
St.Paul's Chapel,CarmbWsClo,
I. 239 *a40
St. Pads Episcopal Chapel, I. 278
St. Paul's Episcopal Church, York
Place, 11.60,188,198,248
St. Paul's Wark, 11. 101
St. Peter'sChurch,RoxburghPlace,
11. '79' school 11. 326
111.149
11. 338
St. Peter's Close 11. 255
St. Peter'sEpiscdpal Church,II1.51
St. Peter's Pend, 11. 255
St. Roque, 111.47 ; legends of, 111.
46,47
St. Roque's Chapel, Rurghmuir,
111.47, ?g : ruins of, Ill. *48
St. Roque s Day 111. 47
St. Roque's KirI&rd, 11. 379
St. Salvator's altar, St. Giles's
St. Staphhs Church, 111. * 81,83,
St. Thomas's Epkopal Chapel, 11.
Church 111. 35
85
. . - .
St?homas's Church, Leith, 111.
St. Tkdudna, 111. r p ; Church of,
St. Vincen't strhet, III. 83
Stafford Street, 11. 211
Stage, The, in Edinburgh, I.
247 248 '253
III.rz8 130 '3'
352
Stagesoaches, Establiihment of,
11.15, 16,235,236; the Glasgow,
11.121
Stained-glass window P a r l i i e n t
House 1. 159 Plati6
stainh0u;e. La;d of, I. 1:9*
389
Stair, Earlof, I. p, 94,37 , 11. 38,
95, 167, 327, 348, 358, h. 3%
367
E.W~ Stair, I. 103,
Stair, Eliiheth Countess of 1. xrn
-106 17r, 111. 41 ; the "Iavic
mirrd "1.103; hermarriagewrth
Stamp duty, In0uence of the, on
newspapers, I. 284,285
Stamp Office, I. 234,267
Stamp Office Close, I. *ng, 231,
232 ; execution there, 1.2%
Standard Life Assurance Company,
11. '3
Stantied tragedy The I. 281
ztanley, Star and the Garter" acto:, 1. tavern ;30 I. 187
Steam communication iivd~eith to
Stedman Dr. John 11.301
Steele, sir Richard,,l: 106
Steil Pate, the musicin, I. 251
Stenkor Stenhouse, 111.339
Steveu Rev. Dr,, the historm of
the high School, 11.11 287, a88,
289, 291:296,35Sr 3&?11- 135
Stevenlaws Close 11.242
Stevenson, Dr. Ahibald, 11. 144
147
Stevenson, Duncan, and the Beacm
newspaper, I. 181, 182 11.241
Stevenson Dr. John I d 18 19~27
Stewart &hibald 'Lord Phvost,
I. 318, 322, 32;) 11. 280, 283;
house of I. 318 * 325
Stewart ojAllanbLk, Sir John, 11.
26
Stewart Sir Alexander, I. 195
Stewart' of Colmess, Sir J ~ C S ,
Provost, 11. 281,111. 340
Stewart, Sir ames, I. 1r7
stewart of &trees Sir Jmi-
I. 229, 111. 34-3;~ ; his h o d
in Advocate's Close, I. *223, Ill.
30' Sir Thomas ib.
Stewah Sir Lewis '111. 364
Stewariof Monk&, Sir Williim,
Murder of I. 196,258, 259, 74
Stewart of 'Grantully, Sir john,
Stewart of Grantully, Sir George,
11. 350; his marriage, 111.90
Stewart, Dugald, I. 106, 156, 11.
17, 39, 120, 168, 195, m~r 2 3,
111.20,55; gray of II. 29 ; his
father, 111.20 ; h e cife, 11. 206 :
her brother, 11. 207; Dugalds
monument 11. III
Stewart Jades 111.79
Stewart'of Gariies, Alexander, 11.
225
Stewart Belshes of Invermay, Sir
John, 11. 383.
Stewart, Daniel, 111. 67; hospital
of, id.; ne* from Drumsheugh
London, 111. 2x1
11. 97 117, 128,13 , 151,175, ZIO
Steel, si; John,scuiptor, I. 159,372.
11. 351
grounds, 111. *68
road, 'I. 3%
3 d
111.221
Stewart Robert, Abbot of Holy-
Stewart of Castle Stewart 11. 157
Stewart ofGarth, Genera;, 11. 150,
Stewart of Strathdon, Sir Robert,
Stewart Colonel ohn, 11. 350
stewart' hptain Eeorge, 11.257
Stewart: Lieut.Colone1 Matthew,
Stewart, Captain James, I. 195, I@
Stewart of W t r e e s , I. 6a
Stewart, Execution of Alexander,
Stewart Lady Margaret 111. n I
Stewart'of lsle Mn., 11.' 162
Stewart, Nichblson, the actor, I.
Stewartfield manor-how, 111. 88,
Stewart s Hospital, 11. 63, 111.67
Stewarth oysteehouse, i. I m
Stirling, Enrls "f T I ? E
Stirliig
stirling gi ~ e w a I. 44 42 11.223
stirliig: sir w&, Lord Rovost,
Stirling of Kek, Sir William, 11.
158 ; h e daughter, 111.35
Stirling, General Graham, I I. 153
Stirling, Mrs., actRsq I. 35f
11. d
a youth, 11. 231
343
91, * 93
11. ~ $ 2 283, 391
I. 374 ... 283, 335, 343 343 III, 140; dew of, II. 169 vanous buildings in, 11. 172; it! early residents, 11. ...

Book 6  p. 389
(Score 0.39)

[PleaMnce. 382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
thoroughfare named Chambers Street, to which the
school was transferred in the winter of 1873-4,
The new edifice cost ~ 3 , 0 0 0 , but the accommodation
is more suitable and ample than that of the
old. Though for many years the directors adhered
to their original plan of confining the subjects of instruction
to Chemistry, Natural Philosophy, and
Mathematics, in later years, at the request of a
number of students, the range of education was
greatly enlarged. Hence, classes for English Language
and Literature were instituted in 1837 ; for
History and Economic Science in 1877 ; for Physiology
in 1863 ; for French in 1843 ; German in
1866 ; Latin in 1874 ; Botany in 1870 ; Pitman?s
Short-hand in 1873 ; Greek in 1875 j Geology in
1872 ; Biology, Free-hand Drawing, and the Theory
of Music, in 1877. In April, 1879, the institution
was handed over to the Heriot Trust, as a People?s.
College, at a meeting presided over by the Hon..
Lord Shand, a patron of the school.
CHAPTER XLIX.
THE PLEASANCE AND ST. LEONARDS.
The Convent of St. Mary-Friends? Buria! Place-Old Chirurgeons? Hall-Surgeon Square-? Hamilton?s Folly ?-The Gibbet-Chapel an&
Hospital of St. Leonard-Davie Deans? Cottage-? The Innocent Railway ?-First Public Dispensary.
AT a period subsequent to the panic after Flodden
there was built across the junction of St. Mary?s
Wynd with the Pleasance, parallel with the south
back of the Canongate, an arched barrier named
St. Mary?s Port. South of this, sixty yards from the
south-east angle of the city wall and near the foot
of the present Roxburgh Street, stood the convent
of St. Mary) which must have been a branch of the
Franciscan House of ? S. Maria di Campagni,? so
much patronised by Pope Urban II., in the Parmese
city of Placentia-as the latter name was given to
the foundation in Edinburgh, long since corrupted
into Pleasance, though the place was of old called
Dearenough. It is unknown by whom or when it
was founded, and nothing of it now remains save
a fine piece of alabaster carving, representing our
Saviour brought before the Jewish high-priest,
which was discovered among its ruins, and presented
to the Antiquarian Museum in 1781.
The name of Pleasance is borne by the narrow,
quaint, and straggling street southward till it joins
the other ancient suburb of St. Leonard, of which
it seems to have formed a portion, as proved by a
charter of Charles I. confirming the magistrates in
the superiority of ? the town of St. Leonard.? In it
are many houses, or the basements thereof, that
date from the early part of the sixteenth century.
St. John?s Hill and this now absorbed village
occupy the long ridge that overlooks the valley
at the base of the Craigs, and the whole of which
seems to have been the ecclesiastical property in
earlier ages of several foundations, all of which
were subject to the Abbots of Holyrood.
On the east side of the street is still a great
quadrangular edifice, called Bell?s Brewery (long
famous for its ale), which is shown as such in
Edgar?s Map in 1765, and was nearly consumed by
fire in 1794 ; and near it is still the Friends? meeting-
house and burial-ground, in which are interred
the Millars of Craigantinie, the Hereditary Master
Gardeners to the king. This sect, whose members
underwent much persecution in the early part 06
the eighteenth century, and were often arrested
by the town guard for preaching in the streets, and
thrust into the Tolbooth, had their first place of
worship in Peebles Wynd, where it was built in
1730. ? Though it was roofed,? says the Cmranf
for September, ? there is as yet no window in it;
but some merrily observe these people have light
within.?
On the west side of the Pleasance, and immediately
within the south-east angle of the city wall
referred to, stood the old Chirurgeons? Hall, in the
High School yards. The surgeons and barbers
were formed into a corporation by the town-council
on the 1st of July, 1505 j under the seal of cause,
or charter, certain rules were prescribed for the
good order of this fraternity. On the 13th of
October in the following year James V. ratified
this charter; and Queen Mary, says Arnot, ?in!
consideration of the great attendance required of
surgeons upon their patients, granted them an ex.
emption from serving upon juries, and from watch
ing and warding within the city of Edinburgh,
privileges which were afterwards confirmed by
Parliament.?
On the 25th of February, 1657, the surgeons and:
apothecaries were, at their request, united into
one community. This was ratified by Parliament,
and from that time the corporation ceasd ... 382 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. thoroughfare named Chambers Street, to which the school was transferred in ...

Book 2  p. 382
(Score 0.39)

102 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Coltbridge;.
from Inverleith Row, and a third from the narrow
lane leading to East Warriston House. In the
grounds are spacious catacombs, above which
is a balustraded terrace with a tastefvl little
mortuary chapel; and there are many elegant
monuments. The chief, though the simplest of
these, is the stone which mqks the spot where,
on.the slope of the terrace, lie, with those of some
of his family, the remains of Sir James Young
Simpson, Bart., recalling the sweet lines which were
among the last things he wrote :-
?? Oft in this world?s ceaseless strife,
When flesh and spirit fail me,
I stop and think of another life,
Where ills can never assail me.
Where my weaned arm shall cease its fight,
My heart shall cease its sorrow ;
And this dark night change for the light
? Of an everlasting morrow.?
Near this grave a little Greek temple (designed
by his grandson John Dick Peddie, M.P.) marks
the last resting-place of the venerable Rev. James
. Peddie, who was so long minister of the Bristo
Street Church. Near the eastern gate, under a cross,
lie the remains of Alexander Smith, author of the
*? Life Drama,? and other poems, which attracted
much attention at the time of their publication.
?It claims special notice,? says a writer in the
Scofsmaa, ?as one of the most artistic and appropriate
works of the kind to be seen in our cemeteries.
It is in the form of an Iona or West High-.
land cross of Binney stone, twelve feet in height, set
in a massive square base four feet high. In the centre.
of the shaft is a bronze medallion of the poet, by
William Brodie, R.S.A., an excellent work of art,
and a striking likeness, above which is the inscription
? Alexander Smith, poet and essayist,?
and below are the places and dates of his birth
and death. The upper part of the shaft and the.
cross itself are elaborately carved in a style of?
ornament which, though novel in design, is strictly
characteristic. For the design of this very striking
and beautiful monument the friends of the poet
are indebted to Mr. James Drummond, R.S.k-a
labour of love, in which artistic skill and antiquarian
knowledge have combined to the production of a
work, which, of its own kind is quite unique, and
commands the admiration of the least instructed?
In another part of the ground is an elegant
reproduction of the ?Maclean Cross? of Iona,
erected by a member of the family. The grave of?
Horatio Macculloch, R.S.A., the well-known landscape
painter, is also here, and also that of the Rev.
James Millar, a good, worthy, and pious man, well
known to the whole British army, and remarkable
as being the last Presbyterian chaplain of the Castle
of Edinburgh, who died in 1875, in about the.
thirtieth year of his ministry, and was interred herewith
military honours.
~
CHAPTER X.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN.
Coltbridge-Rosebum House-Traditions of it--Murrayiield-Lord Henderland-Beechwood-General Leslie-The Dundase-RaveIstm-
The Foulises and Keiths-Craigmk-Its first ProprietorSA Fearful Tragedy-Archibald Constable-Lard Jeffrey-Davidson?s Mains-
Lauriston Castle.
COLTBRIDGE, once a little secluded hamlet qn the
Water of Leith, having two bridges, an old one and
a new one, is now a portion of the western New
Town, but is only famoys as the scene of the
amazing panic exhibited in 1745, by Sir John
Cope?s cavalry, under Brigadier Fowke-the 13th
and 14th Dragoons-who fled in great disorder,
on seeing a few Highland gentlemen-said to be
only seven in number-approach them, mounted,
and firing their pistols, while the little force of
Prince Charles Edward was marching along the old
Glasgow road.
Passing the huge edifices called the Roseburn
Maltings, belonging to the Messrs. Jeffrey, distillers,
consisting of two floors 600 feet in length by 120
in width, for storing ale, a narrow winding path
I leads to the ancient house of Roseburn and theold
Dalry flour mills which now adjoin it.
Small, quaint, and very massively built, with
crowstepped gables and great chimneys, it exhibitsmarks
of very great antiquity, and yet all the history
it possesses is purely traditional. It has two.
door lintels, one of which is the most elaborate
ever seen in Edinburgh, but it has been broken, and
in several places is quite illegible. In the centre
is a shield with the royal arms of Scotland and the:
motto IN DEFENS. There are two other shields,
now defaced; and two tablets, one inscribed thus :-
QVEN. VOU.
VIL. ENTER
AT. CRIST
IS. DVRE
1562. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Coltbridge;. from Inverleith Row, and a third from the narrow lane leading to East ...

Book 5  p. 102
(Score 0.38)

Burghmuir.] GOLF ON BRUNTSFIELD LINKS. 31
Lord High Treasurer, under James IV., the following
entries are found :-
In virtue of a bet in 1798, Mr. Scales of Leith,
and Mr. Smellie, a printer, were selected to perform
..
King , . . . . . . . ixs.
1503, Feb. 22. Item, xij Golf Balls to the King iiijs.
1506. Item, the 28th day of Julii for ij Golf Clubbes to the
King . . . . . . . ijs.
During the reign of James VI. the business of
club making had become one of some importance,
and by a letter, dated Holyrood, 4th April, 1603,
William Mayne, Bowyer, burgess of Edinburgh, is
appointed maker of bows, arrows, spears, and clubs
to the king. From thenceforward the game took a
firm hold of the people as a national pastime, and
it seems to have been a favourite one with Henry,
Duke of Rothesay, and with the great Marquis of
Montrose, as the many entries in his ?? Household
Book ? prove. ?? Even kings themselves,? says a
writer in the Sots Magazine for 1792, ?did not
decline the princely sport; and it will not be
displeasing to the Society of Edinburgh Golfers to
be informed that the two last crowned heads that
ever visited this country (Charles I. .and James
VII.) used to practise golf on the Links of Leith,
now occupied by the society for the same purpose.?
In 1744 the city gave a silver club, valued at
LIS, to be played for on the 1st of April annually
by the Edinburgh Company of Golfers, the victor
to be styled captain for the time, and to append
a gold or silver -medal to the club, bearing his
name and date of victory. The Honourable Company
was incorporated by a charter froni the
magistrates in 1800, and could boast of the most
illustrious Scotsmen of the day among its members.
Until the year 1792 St. Andrews had a species of
monopoly in the manufacture of golf balls. They
are small and hard, and of old were always stuffed
with feathers. The clubs are from three to four
feet long. ?The heads are of brass,? says Dr.
Walker, in a letter to the famous Dr. Carlyle of
Inveresk ; ?? and the face with which the ball is
struck is perfectly smooth, having no inclination,
such as might have a tendency to raise the ball
from the ground. The game may be played by
any number, either in parties against each other,
or each person for himself, and the contest is to
hole the course in the fewest strokes.?
?Far!? or ?Fore!? is the signal cry before the ball
is struck, to warn loiterers or spectators; and
?Far and Surc !? is a common motto with golf clubs.
.
the Erle of Bothwile . . . . xlijs
Feb. 4- Item to Golf? Clubbes and Ballis to the
the church. They were allowed the use of six
balls each. These? all went considerably higher
than the vane, and were found in the Advocate?s
Close, on the north side of the High Street.
Duncan Forbes, the Lord President, was so fond
of golf that he was wont to play on the sands of
Leith when the Links were covered with snow.
Kay gives us a portrait of a famous old golfer,
Andrew McKellar, known as the ?Cock o? the
Green,? in the act of striking the ball. This enthusiast
spent entire days on Bruntsfield Links,
club in hand, and was often there by night too,
playing at the ?short holes? by lantern light
Andrew died about 1813.
Bruntsfield Links and those of Musselburgh are
the favourite places yet of the Edinburgh Club ;
but the St. Andrews meetings are so numerously
attended that the old city by the sea has been
denominated the MefropoZis of golfing.
In a miscellaneous collection, entitled ? Mistura
Curiosa,? a song in praise of golf has two verses
? I love the game of golf, my boys, though there are folks in
Who, when upon the Links they walk, delight to run it
But then those folks who don?t love golf, of coursc, can?t
The fond love that exists between the golfer and his friend.
?For on the green the new command, that ye love one
Is, as a rule, kept better by a golfer than a brother;
For if he?s struck, a brother?s rage is not so soon appeased,
But the harder that Zhit my friend, the better he is pleased.?
Until the Royal Park at Holyrood was opened
up, levelled, and improved, at the suggestion of the
late Prince Consort, Bruntsfield Links was the
invariable place for garrison reviews and field days
by the troops ; but >neither they nor any one else
can interfere with the vested rights of the golfers
to play over any part of the open ground at all
times.
On the summit of the green slope now crowned
by the hideous edifice known as Gillespie?s Hospital,
a picturesque mansion of very great antiquity,
quadrangular in form, striking in outline, with its
peel-tower, turrets, crowstepped gables and gablets,
thus :-
town
down ;
comprehend
another,
1 east corner of the Parliament Square over the
weathercock of St. Giles?s, 161 feet from the base of ... GOLF ON BRUNTSFIELD LINKS. 31 Lord High Treasurer, under James IV., the following entries are found ...

Book 5  p. 31
(Score 0.38)

INDEX.
Henderson, Captain Matthew, 252
Bailie, 214
Qeorge, 192
Henry L of England, 377,378
.II. of England, 6
IV. of England, 13, 350
VI, of England, 18, 342, 443, 444
VII. of England, 23
VIII. of England, 36, 47, 60, 51
11. of France, 60,151
Hepburn, J. R., of Keith, 324
Jamee, of Keith, 308
Prior John, 38
Robert, 139
Here, William, 383
Heriot, Qeorge, 89, 170, 190, 243,316
Heriot’s Hill, 355
Hertford, Earl of, 49, 61, 277, 305
High Jinke, 233, 236
High Riggs, 91, 114
High School, 96,168
Hospital, 91, 96, 343, 367, 373, 438
where first established, 319
of Canongate, 279
Wynd, 78, 446
Hog, Rev. Yr, 111
Hole i’ the Wall, 331
Holy Blood Aisle, St Oiee’s Church, 72, 392
Holgrood Abbey, 3, 4, 17, 25, 27, 31, 38, 39, 42, 45, 52,
91,105, 403
Description of, 403-410
Chapel, St Qiles’s Churchyard, 12, 204
Qreenside, 376
Porch, 307,446
Holyroodhouse, Lord, 204
Henry, Lord, 141
John, Lord, 227, 228
Stent Rolls of, 313
Home, Lord, the Lodging of, 245, 267
Countess of, 294
Sir David, 208
Provost Qeorge, 207
John, Author of Douglae, 288,307
Hope, John de, 151, 255
Christian, 152
Edward, 151,152
Henry, 152
John, 178, 255
Sir Thomae, 152,177,231
The h sof, 375
The Mansion of, 329
Hopetoun, Earl of, 289
Horner, Francis, 189
Horse Wynd, 194,323
Howard, 196
Hume, Sir David, 37
Abbey, 296, 306
’ David, 160, 261, 167, 210, 376
Lord, 37, 38,174, 222
of Godscroft, 16
Hunter’e Close, 109,343
Huntly, Alexander, 3rd Earl of, 28
Gorge, 4th Earl of, 62, 53, 63,71, 73
465
Huntly, George, 6th Earl of, 176
George, 1st Marquis of, 296
Lodging of, 296
Hutchison, T. & A., 201
Hyde, Lady Catherine, 500
Inchafiay, Abbot of, 7
Inchkeith, Island of, 24, 64
Irving Dr, 210
Rev. Edward, 252
Jack’s Close. See Big Jack’s G%ae
James I., 13, 14, 186, 342
Land, Canongate, 160,167,183
Execution of his Asssssins at the Croea, 15
Crowned at Holpod Abbey, 15
Bestows the Valley of Qreenaide on the Citi-
€I., 14, 130, 132, 186, 342, 381
zens, 23
III., 18, 187, 310, 363, 380
Marriage of, to Margaret of Denmark, 18
Crommed at Edinburgh, 22
IT., 22-33, 130,136, 341, 389,405
V., 34-46
Birth of, 31
Escapes from Falkland, 41
Arrives at Leith with Magdalen of France, 41
Entry of Mary of Guise to Edinburgh, 44
VI., 81-91
Born in Edinburgh Castle, 77
Entem Edinburgh in State, 85,341
Arrives at Leith with Anne of Denmark, 87
Bids farewell to Edinburgh, 89
Revisits Edinburgh, 90
VII., 104,131,174,208,341. See York, Duke of
James’s Court, 160,193
Jeffrey, Lord Francis, 255, 348
Jock’s Lodge, 94
John’s Coffee House, 211, 213
John, Vicar of St Wile#, 377
Johnson, Dr, 160, 162,210, 266
Johnston of Warriaton, Sir ArchiLdd, 101,232,296
Square, 250, 370
Sir Patrick, 108,183
Rev. Dr, 366
Johnston’s Close, 167,183
Johnstone, John, Teacher, 167, 183
Jonson, Ben, 91
Jouge, The, 293,372
Julius II., Pope, 25
Kames, Lord, 200,284
Katterfeh, Dr, the Conjuror, 238
Hay, the Caricaturist, 212
Keith, John, 308
Kellie, Alexander, 3d Earl of, 276
Kelso, 60
Kennedy, Sir Andrew, 141
Sir Archibald, 241
Bishop, 256, 381
Walter, 24, 26, 28, 30
Kennedy’s Close, Castlehill, 141
Lady Agnea, 72 ... Captain Matthew, 252 Bailie, 214 Qeorge, 192 Henry L of England, 377,378 .II. of England, ...

Book 10  p. 504
(Score 0.38)

230 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket:
houses which were inhabited by this gang were
well chosen for the purpose to which they were
put. Burke?s dwelling, in which he has only
resided since June last, is at the end of a long
passage, and separated from every other house
except one. After going through the close from
the street there is a descent by a stair to the
passage, at the end of which is to be found this
habitation of wickedness. I t consists of one apartment,
an oblong square, at the end of which is a
miserable bed, under which may still be seen some
straw in which his murdered victims were concealed.
The house of Hare is in a more retired
situation. The passage to it is by a dark and
dirty close, in which there? are no inhabitants,
except in the tlat above. Both houses are on the
ground floor.?
Tanner?s Clme still exists, but the abodes of
those two wretches-the most cold-blooded criminals
in history-are now numbered, as we have stated,
among the things that were.
At the head of Liberton?s Wynd three reversed
stones indicate where, on this? and on other occasions,
the last sentence of the law was carried out.
CHAPTER XXX.
THE GRASSMARKET.
The Grassmarket-The Mart of 1477-Margaret Tudor-Noted Executions-?Half Hangit Maggie Dickson?4talian hlountebanks-Grey
Friary Founded by Jam- I.-Henry VI. of England a Fugitive-The Grev Friars Port-New Corn Exchanee-The White Hone Inn
-Camels-The Castle Wvnd-First Gaelic ChatKl therdurrie Close-The Cockpit-Story of Watt and Downie, ?The Friends of the
People ?-Their Trial aniSentencc-Executbn bf Watt.
THE Grassmarket occupies that part of the
southern valley which lies between the eastern
portion of the Highnggs and the ridge of the Castle
Hill and Street. It is a spacious and stately
rectangle, 230 yards in length, communicating at
its south-east corner with the ancient Candlemaker
Row and southern portion of the old town, and at
its north-east angle with the acclivitous, winding,
narrow, and more ancient alley, the West Bow, or
that fragment of it which now NOS into Victoria
Street, and the steps near the (now demolished)
Land of Weir the wizard.
The Grassmarket is darkly overhung on the
north by the precipitous side of the Castle Esplanade,
the new west approach, and the towering
masses of Johnstone Terrace and the General
Assembly Hall, but on the south is the gentler
slope, crowned by the turrets of Heriot?s Hospital
and the heavy mass of the Greyfriars churches.
The western end of this rectangle was long
closed up and encroached upon by the Corn
Market, an unsightly arcaded edifice, 80 feet long
by 45 broad, with a central belfry and clock, now
swept away, and its eastern end, where the old
Corn Market is shown in Edgar?s map, is deeply
associated with much that is sad, terrible, and
deplorable in Scottish history, as the scene of the
fervid testimony and dying supplications of many
a martyr to U the broken covenant,? in defence of
that Church, every stone of which may be said to
have been cemented by the blood of the people.
Now the Grassmarket is the chief rendezvous
of carriers and farmers, and persons of various
classes connected with the county horse and cattle
markets, and presents a remarkably airy, busy, and
imposing appearance, with its infinite variety of
architecture, crow-stepped gables, great chimneys,
turnpike stairs, old signboards, and projections of
many kinds.
The assignment of this locality as the site ot a
weekly market dates from the year 1477, when
King James 111. by his charter for the holding of
markets, ordained- that wood and timber be sold
?fra Dalrimpill yarde to the Grey Friars and
westerwart; alswa all old graith and geir to be
vsit and soldin the Friday market before the Greyfriars
lyke as is usit in uthir cuntries.?
In 1503, on the mamage of Margaret of England
to James IV., the royal party were met at the
western entrance to the city by the whole of the
Greyfriars-whose monastery was on the south side
of the Grassmarket-bearing in procession their
most valued relics, which were presented to the
royal pair to kiss ; and thereafter they were stayed
at an embattled barrier, erected for the occasion,
at the windows of which appeared angels singing
songs of welcome to the English bride, while one
presented her with the keys of Edinburgh.
In 1543 we first hear of this part of the city
having been causewayed, or paved, when the
Provost and Bailies employed Moreis Crawfurd to
mend ?the calsay,? at 26s. 8d. per rood from the
Upper Bow to the West Port
In 1560 the magistrates removed the Corn ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Grassmarket: houses which were inhabited by this gang were well chosen for the ...

Book 4  p. 230
(Score 0.38)

22 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University.
that young men are sent here from Ireland, from
Flanders, and even from Russia ; and the English
of the true old stamp prefer having their sons here,
than in Oxford and Cambridge, in order to remove
them from the luxury and enormous expense which
prevail in these places.?
In the olden time, as now, a silver mace was
borne before the principal. The original was one
of six, traditionally said to have been found, in the
year 1683, in the tomb of Bishop Kennedy, at
St. Andrews. Two of these are now preserved
there, in the Divinity College of St. Mary?s ; one, of
gorgeous construction, is now in the College of St.
Salvator, and the other three were respectively presented
to the Universities of Aberdeen, Glasgow,
and Edinburgh. They are supposed to have been
constructed for Bishop Kennedy in 1461, by a
goldsmith of Paris named Mair.
From Kincaid we learn that, unfortunately, the
silver mace given to the Edinburgh University was
stolen, and never recovered, though a handsome
reward was offered; and on the 2nd October,
1788, a very ornamental new one was presented to
the senatus by the Magistrates, as patrons of the
University.
Halls and suites of chambers had been added
to the latter from time to time by private citizens ;
but no regular plan was adopted, and till the time
of their demolition the old College buildings presented
a rude assemblage of gable-ended and
crowstepped edifices, of various dates, and little
pretension to ornament.
So early as 1763 a ?memorial relating to the
University of Edinburgh ? was drawn up by one of
its professors, containing a proposal for the rebuilding
of the College on the site of the old
buildings, and on a regular plan j voluntary contributions
were to be received from patriotic individuals,
and, under proper persons, places were
opened for public subscriptions. The proposal
was not without interest for a time ; but the shadow
of the ? dark age ? lay still upon Edinburgh. The
means proved insufficient to realise the project;
thus it was laid aside till more favourable times
should come; but the interval of the American
war seemed to render it hopeless of achievement.
In 1785, however, the design was again brought
before the public in a spirited letter, addressed to
the Right Hon. Henry Dundas (afterwards Viscount
Melville), ?? On the proposed improvements
of the city of Edinburgh, and on the means of
accomplishing them.? Soon after this, the magistrates
set on foot a subscription for erecting a new
structure, according to a design prepared by the
celebrated architect, Robert Adam. Had his plans
been carried out in their integrity, the present
structure would have been much more imposing
and magnificent than it is ; but it was found, after
the erection began to progress, that funds failed,
and a curtailment of the original design became
necessary.
After a portion of the old buildings had been
pulled down, the foundation stone of the new
college was laid on the 16th of November, 1789,
by Lord Napier, as Grand Master Mason of Scotland,
the lineal descendant of the great inventor of
the logarithms. The ceremony on this occasion
was peculiarly impressive.
The streets were lined by the 35th Regiment
and the old City Guard. There were present the
Lord Provost, Thomas Elder of Forneth, the whole
bench of magistrates in their robes, with the regalia
of the city, the Principal (Robertson, the historian),
and the entire Senatus Academicus, in their gowns,
with the new silver mace borne before them, all
the students wearing laurel in their hats, Mr.
Schetkey?s band of singers, and all the Masonic
lodges, with their proper insignia. Many Scottish
nobles and gentry were in the procession, which
started from the Parliament Square, and passing by
the South Bridge, reached the site at one o?clock,
amid 30,000 spectators.
The foundation stone was laid in the usual form,
and, amid prayer, corn, oil, and wine were poured
upon it. Two crystal bottles, cast on purpose at
the Glass House of Leith, were deposited in the
cavity, containing coins of the reigning sovereign,
cased in crystal. These were placed in one bottle;
in the other were deposited seven rolls of vellum,
containing an account of the original foundation
and the then state of the university. The bottles,
being carefully sealed up, were covered with a plate
of copper wrapped in block tin. On these were
engraved the arms of the city, of the university,
and of Lord Napier. The inscription on the plate
was as follows, but in Latin :-
? By the blessing of Almighty God, in the reign
of the most magnificent Prince George III., the
buildings of the University of Edinburgh, being
originally very mean, and almost a ruin, the Right
Hon. Francis Lord Napier, Grand Master of the
Fraternity of Freemasons in Scotland, amid the
acclamations of a prodigious concourse of all
ranks of people, laid the foundation stone of this
new fabric, in which a union of elegance with convenience,
suitable to the dignity of such a celebrated
seat of learning, has been studied. On the
16th day of November, in the year of our Lord
1789, and of the era of Masonry 5789, Thomas ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University. that young men are sent here from Ireland, from Flanders, and even from ...

Book 5  p. 22
(Score 0.38)

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