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Index for “Plew Lands”

162 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Parliament HOUSC
to the High Street scarcely one stone was left
upon another.
?( The Parliament House very hardly escapt,?
he continues, ? all registers confounded ; clerks,
chambers, and processes, in such a confusion, that
the lords and officers of state are just now met in
Rosse?s taverne in order to adjourning of the
sessione by reason of the disorder. Few people
are lost, if any at all ; but there was neither heart
nor hand left amongst them for saveing from the
fyre, nor a drop of water in the cisterns; 20,ooo
hands flitting their trash they knew not wher, and
hardly 20 at work; these babells of ten and fourteen
story high, are down to the ground, and
their fall very terrible. Many rueful spectacles,
such as Crossrig, naked, with a child under his
oxter, hopping for his lyffe; the Fish Mercate,
and all from the Cowgate to Pett-streets Close,
burnt ; the Exchange, vaults and coal-cellars under
the Parliament Close, are still burning.?
Many of the houses that were burned on this
occasion were fourteen storeys in height, seven of
which were below the level of the Close on the
south side. These Souses had been built about
twenty years before, by Thomas Robertson, brewer,
a thriving citizen, whose tomb in the Greyfriars?
Churchyard had an inscription, given. in Monteith?s
Theatre of Mortality, describing him as
?remarkable for piety towards God, loyalty to his
king, and love to his country.? He had given the
Covenant out of his hand to be burned at the Cross
in 1661 on the Restoration ; and now it was remembered
exultingly ? that God in his providence
had sent a burning among his lands.?
But Robertson was beyond the rexh of earthly
retribution, as his tomb bears that he died on the
zIst of September, r686, in the 63rd year of his
age, with the addendum, Yivit postfunera virtus-
(? Virtue survives the grave.?
Before we come to record the great national
tragedy which the Parliament House witnessed in
1707-for a tragedy it w3s then deemed by the
Scottish people-it may be interesting to describe
the yearly ceremony, called the Riding of the
Parliament,? in state, from the Palace to the Hall,
as described by Arnot and others, on the 6th of
May, 1703.
The central streets of the city and Canongate,
being cleared of all vehicles, and a lane formed
by their being inrailed on both sides, none were
permitted to enter but those who formed the
procession, or were officers of the Scottish
regulars, and the trained bands in full uniform.
Outside these rails the streets were lined by the
porch westwards ; next in order stood the Scottish
Foot Guards (two battalions, then as now), under
Zeneral Sir George Ramsay, up to the Netherbow
Port ; from thence to the Parliament House, and
:o the bar thereof, the street was lined by the
:rained bands of the city, the Lord High Constable?s
Guards, and those of the Earl Marischal.
rhe former official being seated in an arm-chair, at
:he door of the House, received the officers, while
:he members being assembled at the Palace of
Holyrood, were then summoned by name, by the
Lord Clerk Registrar, the Lord Lyon King of
Arms, and the heralds, with trumpets sounding,
ifter which the procession began, thus :-
Two mounted trumpeters, with coats and banners, bareheaded.
Two pursuivants in coats and foot mantles, ditto.
Sixty-three Commissioners for burghs on horseback, two
ind two, each having a lackey on foot j the odd number
Nalking alone.
Seventy-seven Commissioners for shires, mounted and
:overed, each having two lackeys on foot.
Fifty-one Lord Barons in their robes, riding two and two,
:ach having a gentleman to support his train, and three
ackeys on foot, wearing above their liveries velvet coats
with the arms of their respective Lords on the breast and
lack embossed on plate, or embroidered in gold or silver.
Nineteen Viscounts ils the former.
Sixty Earls as the former.
Four trumpeters, two and two.
Four pursuivants, two and two.
The heralds, Islay, Ross, Rothesay, Albany, Snowdon,
md Marchmont, in their tabards, two and two, bareheaded.
The Lord Lyon King at Arms, in his tabard, with chain,
obe, bfiton, and foot mantle.
The Sword of State, born by the Earl of Mar.
+I
The Sceptre, borne by the Earl of Crawford.
8 Borne by the Earl of Forfar. b
The purse and commission, borne by the Earl of g
0 Morton. 6
d THE CROWN,
THE DUKE OF QUEENSBERRY, LORD HIGH $ s COMMISSIONER,
With his servants, pages, and footmen.
Four Dukes, two and two.
Gentlemen bearing their trains, and each having eight
Six Marquises, each having six lackeys.
The Duke of Argyle, Colonel of the Horse Guards.
A squadron of Horse Guards.
The Lord High Commissioner was received
;here, at the door of the House, by the Lord
High Constable and the Earl Marischal, between
whom he was led to the throne, followed by the
Usher of the White Rod, while, amid the blowing
3f trumpets, the regalia were laid upon the table
before it.
The year I 706, before the assembling of the last
Parliament. in the old hall, was peculiarly favourable
lackeys.
Scottish Hcrrse Gremdier Guards, from the Palace to any attempt for the then exiled House of Stuart ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Parliament HOUSC to the High Street scarcely one stone was left upon another. ?( The ...

Book 1  p. 162
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cantoned with other four in the angles. The tiar, or
bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a
.cap of crimson velvet, adorned with four plates of
gold, on each of them a great pearl, and the bonnet
-is trimmed up with ermine. Upon the lowest circle
there are eight small holes, two and two, on the
-four quarters of the crown, which mere for lacing
-or tying thereto diamonds or precious stones.
The crown is g inches in diameter, 27 inches
about, and in height from the under circle to the
top of the cross patee 6; inches.
The sceptre : its stem or stalk, which is of
silver double overgilt, is two feet long, of a hexagon
form, with three buttons or knobs; betwixt the
first button and the second is the handle of a
hexagon form, furling in the middle and plain.
Betwixt the second button and the third are three
sides engraven. From the third button to the
capital the three sides under the statues are plain,
and on the other three are antique engravings. Upon
the top of the stalk is an antique capital of leaves
embossed, the abacus whereof arises round the
prolonged stem, surrounded with three little statues;
between every two statues arises a rullion in the
form of a dolphin ; above the rullions and statues
stands another hexagon button, with oak leaves
under every corner, and down it a crystjl (beryl?)
globe. The whole sceptre is in length 34 inches.?
The statues are those of the Virgin, St. Andrew,
and St. James. The royal initials, J. R. V. are
engraved under them. If James V. had this
sceptre made, the metallic settings of the great
beryl belong to some sceptre long anterior to
his time.
The sword is in length 5 feet ; the handle and
pommel are of silver overgilt, in length 15 inches.
The pommel is round and somewhat flat on the two
sides. The traverse or cross OF the sword, which
is of silver overgilt, is in length 17h inches; its
form is like two dolphins with their heads joining
and their tails ending in acorns; the shell is
hanging down towards the point of the sword,
formed like an escalop flourished, or rather like
a green oak-leaf. On the blade of the sword
are indented with gold these letters-JuLIus 11. P.
The scabbard is of crimson velvet, covered with
silver wrought in philagram-work into branches oj
the oak-tree leaves and acorns.?? Such are the
Scottish regalia, which, since the destruction 01
those of England by Cromwell, are the only ancien!
regal emblems in Great Britain.
The sword of state is of an earlier date than the
rod of the sceptre, being presented by the rvarlikr
Pope Julius to James IV. with a consecrated hai
in 1507. The keys of St. Peter figure promhentlj
among the filagree work. After the fall of the Castle
of Dunottar, in 1651, the belt of the sword became
an heirloom in the family of Ogilvie of Barras.
The great pearl in the apex of the crown is
alleged to be the same which in 1620 was found
in the burn of Kellie, a tributary of the Ythanz
in Aberdeenshire, and was so large and beautiful
that it was esteemed the best that had at any time
been found in Scotland.? Sir Thomas Menzies,
Provost of Aberdeen, obtaining this precious jewel,
presented it to James VI., who in requital gave
him twelve or fourteen chaldron of victuals about
Dunfermline, and the custom of certain merchant
goods during his life.? *
Before quitting the Castle of Edinburgh, it is impossible
to omit some special reference to Mons
Meg-that mighty bombard which is thirteen feet
long and two feet three and a half inches within the
bore, and which was long deemed by the Scots a
species of palladium, the most ancient cannon in
Europe, except one in Lisbon, and a year older
than those which were made for Mahomet 11.
Not a vestige of proof can be shown for the popular
error that this gun was forged at Mons, while unvarying
tradition, supported by very strong carroborative
evidence, proves that she was formed by
Scottish artisans, by order of James II., when he
besieged the rebellious Douglases in the castle
of Thrieve, in Galloway, during 1455. He posted
his artillery at the Three Thorns of the Carlinwark,
one of which is still surviving ; but their fire proving
ineffective, a smith named M?Kim, and his sons,
offered to construct a more efficient piece of ordnance.
Towards this the inhabitants of the vicinity
contributed each a ,rrczud, or iron bar. Tradition,
which never varied, indicated the place where it was
forged, a mound near the Three Thorns, .and when
the road was formed there, that mound was discovered
to be a mass of cinders and the iron dCbris
of a great forge. To this hour the place where the
great gun was posted is named Knock-cannon. Only
fwo of Meg?s bullets were discharged before Thrieve
surrendered, and it is remarkable that both have
been found there. ?The first,? says the New
Statistical Accowif, <?was, towards the end of thk
last century, picked out of the well and delivered to
Gordon of Greenlam. The second was discovered
in 1841, by the tenant of Thrieve, when removing
an accumulation of rubbish.? It lay in a line direct
from Knock-cannon to the breach in the wall. To
reward M?Kim Jarnes bestowed upon him the
forfeited lands of MolIFnce. The smith is said to
have nanied the gun after his wife ; and the con- ... with other four in the angles. The tiar, or bonnet, was of purple velvet; but, in 1685, it got a .cap of ...

Book 1  p. 74
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Leith.] THE BARTONS. 203
is the second of the name, who died in 1513,
John the senior was certainly dead in 1508.
Charles, Duke of Burgundy, was so incensed by
the capture of the Juliuna in Flemish waters that
he demanded the surrender of Pret and Velasquez
to himself, with due compensation to Barton, but
failed in both cases. Joam 111. was then King of
Portugal.
Robert Barton would seem also at one time to
have faHen into the hands of the Portuguese ; and
there is extant a letter sent by James IV. to the
Emperor Maximilian, requesting his influenCe to
have him released from prison, and therein the
king refers to the quarrel of 1476, and merely
states that old John Barton was thrown into a prison
also.
In 1506, at a tournament held by James IV. in
Stirling, we read of a blackamoor girl, captured
from the Portuguese by Captain Barton, seated in
a triumphal chariot, being adjudged the prize of
the victor knight ; but the Bartons sent other gifts
to the king, in the shape of casks full of pickled
Portuguese heads.
In 1498, when Perkin Warbecli and his wife, the
Lady Katharine Gordon, left Scotland for Flanders,
they were on board a ship which, Tytler says, was
commanded by and afterwards the property of the
celebrated Robert Barton. Amongst her stores,
noted in the ?.Treasurefs Accounts,? are ?? ten tuns
and four pipes of wine, 8 bolls of aitmele, 18 marts
of beef, 23 muttons, and a hogshead of herring.?
Andrew Barton, the brother of the captain (and,
like him, a merchant in Leith), is mentioned as
having furnished biscuit, cider, and beer, for the
voyage.
In 1508 this family continued their feud with the
Portuguese. In that year Letters of Marque were
granted to them by James IV., and they run thus,
according to the ?Burgh Records of Edinburgh ? :-
?]~callus Dei Gratia Rex Scatorurn, deZectis semit
o d u s nosiris. John Barton and Robert Barton,
sons of our late beloved servant John Barton, shipmaster,
and other shipmasters our lieges and subjects,
in company of the said John Barton for the
time (greeting) :
? Some pirates of the nation of Portugal attacked
a ship of our late illustrious ancestor (James HI.),
which, under God, the late John commanded, and
with a fleet of many ships compelled it to surrender,
robbed it of its merchandise, of very great
value, and stripped it of its armament On account
of which, our most serene father transmitted his complaint
to the King of Portugal.? Justice not having
been done, the document runs, Jarnes 111. decreed
Letters of Reprisal against the Portuguese. ? We,
moreover, following the footsteps of our dearly
beloved ancestor . . . . . concede and grant by
these presents to you, John and Robert aforesaid,
and our other subjects who shall be in your company
for the time, our Letters of Marque or Reprisai,
that you may receive and bring back to us
from any men whomsoever of the nation of Portugal,
on account of the justice aforesaid being.
desired, to the extent of 3,000 crowns of money
of France . . . . Givenunder our Privy Seal, &c.?
Under these letters the brothers put to sea in
the quaint argosies of those days, which had low
waists with towering poops and forecastles, and
captured many Portuguese ships, and doubtless
indemnified themselves remarkably well ; while
their elder brother, Andrew, an especial favourite
of James IV., who bestowed upon him the then
coveted honour of knighthood, ? for upholding
the Scottish flag upon the seas,? was despatched
to punish some Dutch or Flemish pirates who had
captured certain Scottish ships and destroyed theircrews
with great barbarity. These he captured,
with their vessel, and sent all their heads to LeitL
in a hogshead.
As is well known, he was killed fighting bravely
in the Downs on the 2nd August, 1511, after a
severe conflict with the ships of Sir Thomas and Sir.
Edward Howard, afterwards Lord High Admiral of
England, when he had only two vessels with him,
the Lion of 36 great guns, and a sloop name$ the.
Jenny. The Howards had three ships of war and
an armed collier. The Lion was afterwards added
to the English navy, as she was found to be only
second in size and armament to the famous Great
Harry. His grandson Charles married Susan
Stedman of Edinburgh, and from them are said tobe
descended nearly all of that name in Fife, Kinross,
and Holland.
For his services as Admiral on the West Coast,
John Barton received the lands of Dalfibble ; and
in April, 1513, he returned from a diplomatic mission
to France, accompanied by the Unicorn Pursuivant;
and so important was its nature that he
took horse, and rode all night to meet the king,
who was then on the eve of departing for Flodden.
On the 26th of July in the Same year he joined
the squadron, consisting of the Great Michael, the
James, Marguret, the S/$ of Lynne (an English
prize), a thirty-oared galley, and fourteen other
armed ships, commanded by Gordon of Letterfourie
(and having on board the Earl of Arran and
3,000 soldiers), which sailed from Leith as a present
to Anne, Queen of France-a piece of ill-timed
generosity on the part of the princely Jarnes IV.,
who accompanied the armament as far as the Isle ... THE BARTONS. 203 is the second of the name, who died in 1513, John the senior was certainly dead in ...

Book 6  p. 203
(Score 0.49)

Leith.] THE FIRST BRIDGE. 167
Kirk aark, and to be-deprived of- the freedom (of
the city) for ane zeare.? 1
.of the harbour, for the erection of quays and wharfs
and for the loading of goods, with the liberty to
have shops and granaries, and to make all necessary
roads thereto ; but this grasping feudal baron
afterwards sorely teased and perplexed the town
council with points of litigation, till eventually he
roused them to adopt a strong measure for satiating
.at once his avarice and their own ambition.
Bought over by them with alarge sum of nionfy
.drawn from the city treasury, Sir Robert Logan on
;the 27th of February, 1413, granted them an extraordinary
charter, which has been characterised as
an exclusive, ruinous, and enslaving bond,? restraining
the luckless inhabitants of Leith from
.carrying on trade cE any sort, from possessing warehouses
or shops, from keeping inns for strangers,
? so that nothing should be built or constructed on
the said land (in Leith) in future, to the prejudice
and impediment of the said community.? The
witnesses to this grant are George Lauder the Pro-
Test, and the Bailies, William Touris of Cramond,
William of Edmondston, James Cant, Dean of
Guild, John Clark of Lanark, Andrew Learmouth,
and William of the Wood.
In 1428 King James I. granted a charter under
.his great seal, with consent of the community of
Edinburgh, ordaining ? that in augmentation of the
fabrik and reparation of the port and harbour of
Leith, there should be uplifted a certain tax or toll
upon all ships and boats entering therein,? This
is dated from the Palace of Dunfermline, 31st
December. (Burgh Records.)
In 1439 Patrick, abbot of Holyrood, granted to
Sir Robert Logan and his heirs the office of bailie
aver the abbey lands of St. Leonards, ?lyande in
the town of Leicht, within the barony of Restalrig,
on the south halfe the water, from the end of the
gret volut of William Logane on the east part to
the common gate that passes to the ford over the
water of Leicht, beside the waste land near the
house of John of Turing,? etc. (Burgh Charters.)
Not content with the power already given them
over their vassals in Leith, the magistrates of Edinburgh,
after letting the petty customs and haven
siller? of Leith for the sum of one hkdred and
ten merks in 1485, passed a remarkable order in
council :-? That no merchant of Edinburgh presume
to take into partnership any indweller of the
town of Leith, under pain of forty pounds to the
he proceeded to Leith tb hold his water courts,
such an escort being deemed necessary for the
In 1497 the civic despots of Edinburgh obtained,
on writ from the Privy Council, that ? all manner
of persons, quhilk are infectit, or has been infectit
and uncurrit of the contageouse plage, callit
the grand gore, devoid red and pass furth of
this towne, and compeir on the sandis of Leith,
at ten hours before noon, and thair shall have
boats reddie in the Haven, ordainit to thame be
the officears, reddie furnished with victualles, to
have them to the inche, there to remain quhi!l
God provide for thair health.? (Town Council
Records.)
As regards Leith, a much more important event
is recorded four years before this, when Robert
Ballantyne, abbot of Holyrood, ? with the consent
of his chapter and the approbation of William,
Archbishop of St. Andrews,? first spanned the
river by a solid stone bridge, thus connecting South
and North Leith, holding the right of levying a toll
therefor. It was a bridge of three arches; of
which Lord Eldin made a sketch in 1779, and part
of one of the piers of which still remains. Abbot
Ballantyne also built a chapel thereby, and in his
charter it is expressly stated, after enumerating the
tithes and tolls of the bridge, ?that the stipend of
each of the two incumbents is to be limited to
fifteen merks, and after the repairs of the said
bridge and chapel, and lighting the same, the surplus
is to be given to the poor.?
This chapel was dedicated to St. Ninian the
apostle of Galloway, and the abbot?s charter was
confirmed by King James IV. on the 1st June,
1493. He also established a range of buildings
on the south side of the river, a portion of which,
says Robertson, writing in 1851, still exists in
the form of a gable and large oven, at the locality
generally designated ? the Old Bridge End.? ?
The part in Leith whereon, it is said, the first
houses were built in the twelfth century, is bounded ,
on the south by the Tolbooth Wynd, on the west
by the shore or quay, on the north by the Broad
Wynd, and on the east by the Rotten Row, now
called Water Lane. One of the broadest alleys in
this ancient quarter is the Burgess Close,? ten feet
in width, and was the first road granted to the
citizens of Edinburgh by Logan of Kestalng.
In the year 1501, all freemen of the city, to the
number of twenty or so, were directed by the
magistrates to accompany the water bailie when ... THE FIRST BRIDGE. 167 Kirk aark, and to be-deprived of- the freedom (of the city) for ane zeare.? 1 .of ...

Book 5  p. 167
(Score 0.49)

Holyrood. I KING DAVID?S CHARTER. 43
sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no
come, I grant the aforesaid church from my ren
of Edinburgh forty shillings, from Stirling twentj
shillings, and from Perth forty shillings ; and ont
toft in Stirling, and the draught of one net foi
tishing ; and one toft in my Burgh of Edinburgh
free and quit of all custom and exaction ; and ont
toft in Berwick, and the draught of two nets ir
Scypwell ; one toft in Renfrew of five perches, tht
?draught of one net for salmon, and to fish thert
for herrings freely ; and I forbid any one to exact
from you or your men any customs therefor.
?? I moreover grant to the aforesaid canons from
my exchequer yearly ten pounds for the lights o
the church, for the works of that church, anc
repairing these works for ever. I charge, more
over, all my servants and foresters of Stirlingshirt
and Clackmannan, that the abbot and convent havt
free power in all my woods and forests, of taking
as much timber as they please for the building 01
their church and of their houses, and for any purpost
of theirs; and I enjoin that their men who take
timber for their use in the said woods have my
firm peace, and so that ye do not permit them tc
be disturbed in any way ; and the swine, the property
of the aforesaid church, I grant in all my
woods to be quit of pannage [food].
?? I grant, moreover, to the aforesaid canons the
half of the fat, tallow, and hides of the slaughter 01
Edinburgh ; and a tithe of all the whales and seabeasts
which fall to me from Avon to Coldbrandspath;
and a tithe of all my pleas and gains from
Avon to Coldbrandspath ; and the half of my tithe
of cane, and of my pleas and gains of Cantyre and
Argyll ; and all the skins of rams, ewes, and lambs
of the castle and of Linlithgow which die of my
flock ; and eight chalders of malt and eight of meal,
with thirty *cart-loads of bush from Liberton ; and
one of my mills of Dean; and a tithe of the mill
of Liberton, and of Dean, and of the new mill of
*Edinburgh, and of Craggenemarf, as much as I
.have for the same in my domain, and as much as
JVuieth the White gave them of alms of the same
Crag. I
? ?? I grant likewise to them leave to establish a
burgh between that church and my burgh.* And
. I grant that the burgesses have common right of
selling their wares and of buying in my market,
?freely and quit of claim and custom, in like manner
.as my own burgesses ; and I forbid that any one
take in this burgh, bread, ale, or cloth, or any ware
-by force, or without consent of the burgesses. I
grant, moreover, that the canons be quit of toll
. Here them is no mention of the town of Hcr6Crgrrs, alleged to haw
occupied the site of the Canongate.
and of all custom in all my burghs and throughout
all my land: to wit, all things that they buy
and sell.
?And I forbid any one to take pledge on the
land of the Holy Rood, unless the abbot of that
place shall have refused to do right and justice. I
will, moreover, that they hold all that is above
written as freely and quietly as I hold my own
lands ; and I will that the abbot hold his court as
freely, fully, and honourably as the Bishop of St.
Andrews and the Abbots of Dunfermline and
Kelso hold their courts.
?Witnesses tRobert Bishop of St. Andrews,
John Bishop of Glasgow, Henry my son, William
my grandson, Edward the Chancellor, Ilerbert the
Chamberlain, Gillemichael the Earl, Gospatrick the
brother of Dolphin, Robert of Montague, Robert
of Burneville, Peter of Brus, Norman the Sheriff,
Oggu, Leising, Gillise, William of Grahani, Turston
of Crechtune, Blein the Archdeacon, Aelfric the
Chaplain, Walerain the Chaplain.? l-
This document is interesting from its simplicity,
and curious as mentioning mzny places still known
under the same names. 1
The canons regular of the order of St. Augustine
were brought there from St. Andrews in Fifeshire.
The order was first established in Scotlayd
by Alexander I. in 1114, and ere long possessed
twenty-eight monasteries or foundations in tqe
So, in process of time, ?? in the hollow betweqn
two hills ? where King David was saved from the
white hart, there rose the great abbey house,
with its stately cruciform church, having three
:ewers, of which but a fragment now remainsT
i melancholy ruin. Till its completion the canods
Mere housed in the Castle, where they resided till
rbout 1176, occupying an edifice which had preiliously
been a nunnery.
The southern aisle of the nave is the only part
if the church on which a roof remains, and of the
whole range of beautifully clustered pillars on the
iorth side but two fragments alone survive. The
mtire ruin retains numerous traces of the original
vork of the twelfth century, though enriched by
he additions of subsequent ages. With reference
o the view of it in the old print which has been
:opied in these pages,$ it has been observed
hat therein ?the abbey church appears with a
econd square tower, uniform with the one still
tanding at the north of the great doorway. The
ransepts are about the usual proportions, but the
:hoir is much shorter than it is proved from other
kingdom. I
-
t ?Charters relatiagta Cityof E&bwgh,?&u xr43-x5+ao. 4ta. 1871.
f see ante, vol. i, p. 5. ... I KING DAVID?S CHARTER. 43 sake of trade ; and if it happen that they do no come, I grant the aforesaid ...

Book 3  p. 42
(Score 0.49)

190 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Great Fire.
while the weather changed rapidly ; the wind,
accompanied by rain, came in fierce and fitful
gusts, thus adding to the danger and harrowing
interest of the scene, which, from the great size of
the houses, had much in it that was wild and weird.
? About five o?clock,?? says Dr. James Browne, in
his ? Historical Sketch of Edinburgh,? ?the fire
had proceeded so far downwards in the building
occupied by the Coura~rf office, that the upper part
of the front fell inwards with a dreadful crash, the
concussion driving the flames into the middle of
the street. By this time it had communicated with
the houses on the east side of the Old Fish Market
Close, which it burned down in succession ; while
that occupied by Mr. Abraham Thomson, bookbindet,
which had been destroyed a few months
previously by fire and re-built, was crushed in at
one extremity by the fall of the gable. In the Old
Assembly Close it was still more destructive ; the
whole west side, terminating with the .king?s old
Stationery Warehouse, and including the Old Assembly
Hall, then occupied as a warehouse by
Bell and Bradfute, booksellers, being entirely consumed.
These back tenements formed one of the
most massive, and certainly not the least remarkable,
piles of building in the ancient city, and in
former times were inhabited by persons of the
greatest distinction. At this period they presented
a most extraordinary spectacle. A great
part of the southern Zand fell to the ground ; but a
lofty and insulated pile of side wall, broken in the
centre, rested in its fall, so as to form one-half of
an immense pointed arch, and remained for several
days in this inclined position.
?By nine o?clock the steeple of the Tron Church
was discovered to be on fire ; the pyramid became
a mass of flame, the lead of the roof poured over
the masonry in molten streams, and the bell fell
With a crash, as we have narrated, but the church
was chiefly saved by a powerful engine belonging
to the Board of Ordnance. The fire was now
stopped; but the horror and dismay of the people
increased when, at ten that night, a new one broke
forth in the devoted Parliament Square, in the attic
floor of a tenement eleven storeys in height, overlooking
the Cowgate. As this house was far to
windward of the other fire, it was quite impossible
that one could have caused the other-a conclusion
which forced itself upon the minds of all, together
with the startling belief that some desperate incendiaries
had resolved to destroy the city ; while
many went about exclaiming that it was a special
punishment sent from Heaven upon the people for
their sins.?? (Browne, p. 220; Courant of Nov. 18,
1824; &c.)
As the conflagration spread, St. Giles?s and the
Parliament Square resounded with dreadful echoes,
and the scene became more and more appalling,
from the enormous altitude of the buildings; all
efforts of the people were directed to saving the
Parliament House and the Law Courts, and by
five on the morning of Wednesday the scene is
said to have been unspeakably grand and terrific.
Since the English invasion under Hertford in
1544 no such blaze had been seen in the ancient
city. ? Spicular columns of flame shot up majestically
into the atmosphere, which assumed a lurid,
dusky, reddish hue ; dismay, daring, suspense,
fear, sat upon different countenances, intensely
expressive of their various emotions ; the bronzed
faces of the firemen shone momentarily from under
their caps as their heads were raised at each successive
stroke of the engines ; and the very element
by which they attempted to extinguish the conflagration
seemed itself a stream of liquid fire. The
County Hall at one time appeared like a palace of
light ; and the venerable steeple of St. Giles?s reared
itself amid the bright flames like a spectre awakened
to behold the fall and ruin of the devoted city.?
Among those who particularly distinguished themselves
on this terrible occasion were the Lord President,
Charles Hope of Granton ; the Lord Justice
Clerk, Boyle of Shewalton ; the Lord Advocate,
Sir Williani Rae of St. Catherine?s ; the Solicitor-
General, John Hope; the Dean of Faculty ; and
Mr. (afterwards Lord) Cockburn, the well-known
memorialist of his own times.
The Lord Advocate would seem to have been
the most active, and worked for some time at one
of the engines playing on the central tenement at
the head of the Old Assembly Close, thus exerting
himself to save the house in which he first saw the
light. All distinction of rank being lost now in
one common and generous anxiety, one of Sir
Wiiliam?s fellow-labourers at the engine gave him a
hearty slap on the back, exclaiming, at the same
time, ? Wee1 dune, my lord !I?
On the morning of Wednesday, though showers
of sleet and hail fell, the fire continued to rage with
fury in Conn?s Close, to which it had been communicated
by flying embers ; but there the ravages
of this unprecedented and calamitous conflagration
ended. The extent of the mischief done exceeded
all former example. Fronting the High Street
there were destroyed four tenements of six storeys
each, besides the underground storeys ; in Conn?s
Close, two timber-fronted ? lands,? of great antiquity
; in the Old Assembly Close, four houses of
seven storeys each ; in Borthwick?s Close, six great
tenements ; in the Old Fish Market Close, four of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Great Fire. while the weather changed rapidly ; the wind, accompanied by rain, ...

Book 1  p. 190
(Score 0.49)

375 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moultray?s Hill.
country where pedigree is the best ascertained of
any in the world, the national record of armorial
bearings, and memoirs concerning the respective
families inserted along with them, are far from
being the pure repositary of truth. Indeed, there
have of late been instances of genealogies inrolled
in the books of the Lyon Court, and coats of arms
with supporters and other marks of distinction
being bestowed in such a manner as to throw
ridicule upon the whole science of heraldry.?
For a time tlie office was held by John Hooke
Campbell, Esq., with a salary of A300 yearly.
Robert ninth Earl of Kinnoul, and Thomas tenth
Earl, held it as a sinecure in succession, with a
salary Of A555 yearly ; for each herald yearly,
and for each pursuivant A16 13s. 4d. yearly were
paid ; and on the death of the last-named earl, in
1866, the office of Lord Lyon was reduced to a
mere Lyon Ring, while the heralds and pursuivants
were respectively reduced to four each in number,
who, clad in tabards, proclaim by sound of trumpet
and under a guard of honour, at the market cross,
as of old, war or peace with foreign nations, the
proroguing and assembly of Parliament, the election
of peers, and so forth.
The new Register House stands partly behind
the old one, with an open frontage in West
Register Street, towards Princes Street. It was
built between 1857 and 1860, at a cost of &27,000,
from designs by Kobert Matheson. It is in a
species of Palladian style, with Greek details. It
serves chiefly as the General Registry Ofice for
births, deaths, and marriages, with the statistical
and index departments allotted thereto. A supplemental
building in connection with both houses
was built in 1871, from designs by the same architect.
It is a circular edifice, fifty-five feet in
diameter, and sixty in height, relieved by eight
massive piers and a dado course, surmounted by a
glazed dome, that rises within a cornice and balustrade.
It serves for the reception of record volumes
in continuation of those in the old Register House.
In the new buildings are various departments
connected with the law courts-such as the Great
Seal Office, the Keeper of the Seal being the Earl
of Selkirk; and the office of the Privy Seal, the
keeper of which is the Marquis of Lothian.
The latter was first established by James I., upon
his return to Scotland in 1423. In ancient times,
in the attestation of writings, seals were commonly
affixed in lieu of signatures, and this took place
with documents concerning debt as well as with
writs of more importance. In writs granted by
the king, the affixing of his seal alone gave them
.
sufficient authority without a signature. This seal
was kept by the Lord High Chancellor; but as
public business increased, a keeper of the Privy or
King?s Seal was created by James I., who wished
to model the officials of his court after what he
had seen in England ; and the first Lord Keeper
of the Privy Seal, in 1424 was Walter Footte,
Provost of Bothwell. The affixing of this seal to
sny document became preparatory to obtaining the
great seal to it. It was, however, in some cases, a
sufficient sanction of itself to several writs which
were not to pass the great seal; and it came at
length to be an established rule, which holds good
to this day, that the rights of such things as might
be conveyed among private persons by assignations
were to pass as grants from the king under his
privy seal alone ; but those of lands and heritages,
which among subjects are transmitted by disilositions,
were to pass by grants from the king under
the great seal. ?Accordingly, the writs in use to
pass under the privy seal alone were gifts of offices,
pensions, presentation to benefices, gifts of escheat,
ward, marriage and relief, z r l t i m r s hares, and such
like ; but as most of tlie writs which were to pass
under the great seal were first to pass the privy
seal, that afforded great opportunity to examine
the king?s writs, and to prevent His Majesty or his
subjects from being hurt by deception or fraud.?
In the new Register House are also the Chancery
Office, and the Record of Entails, for which an Act
was first passed by the Parliament of Scotland in
1685, the bill chamber and extractor?s chamber, the
accountant in bankruptcy, and the tiend office, Src.
In front of the flights of steps which lead to the
entrance of the original Register House stands the
bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington,
executed bySir John Steell, RS.A.,a native sculptor.
The bust taken for this figure so pleased the old
duke that he ordered two to be executed for him,
one for Apsley House, and the other for Eton. It
was erected in 1852, amid considerable ceremony,
when there were present at the unveiling a vast
number of pensioners drawn up in the street, many
minus legs and arms, while a crowd of retired
officers, all wearing the newly-given war-medd,
occupied the steps of the Register House, and were
cheered by their old comrades to the echo. Many
met on that day who had not seen each other since
the peace that followed Waterloo ; and when the
bands struck up 5uch airs as ?The garb of old
Gaul,? and ?The British Grenadiers,? many a
withered face was seen to brighten, and many an
eye grew moist; staffs and crutches were brandished,
and the cheering broke forth again and again. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Moultray?s Hill. country where pedigree is the best ascertained of any in the world, ...

Book 2  p. 372
(Score 0.49)

High Street.] TULZIES IN THE HIGH STREET. 195 - -
his own friends and servants into two armed parties,
set forth on slaughter intent.
He directed his brothers John and Robert
Tweedie, Porteous of Hawkshaw, Crichton of
Quarter, and others, to Conn?s Close, which was
directly opposite to the smith?s booth; while he,
accompanied by John and Adam Tweedie, sons of
the Gudeman of Dura, passed to the Kirk (of Field)
Wynd, a little to the westward of the booth, to cut
off the victim if he hewed a way to escape ; but as
he was seen standing at the booth door with his
back to them, they shot him down with their
pistols in cold blood, and left him lying dead on
the spot.
For this the Tweedies were imprisoned in the
Castle; but they contrived to compromise the
matter with the king, making many fair promises ;
yet when he was resident at St. James?s, in 1611,
he heard that the feud and the fighting in Upper
Tweeddale were as bitter as ever.
On the 19th of January, 1594, a sharp tulzie, or
combat, ensued in the High Street between the
Earl of Montrose, Sir James Sandilands, and others.
10 explain the cause of this we must refer to
Calderwood, who tells us that on the 13th of
February, in the preceding year, John Graham of
Halyards, a Lord of Session (a kinsman of Montrose),
was passing down Leith Wynd, attended by
three or four score of armed men for his protection,
when Sir Janies Sandilands, accompanied by his
friend Ludovic Duke of Lennox, with an armed
I company, met him. As they had recently been
in dispute before the Court about Some temple
lands, Graham thought he was about to be attacked,
and prepared to make resistance. The
duke told him to proceed on his journey, and that
no one would molest him; but the advice was
barely given when some stray shots were fired by
the party of the judge, who was at once attacked,
and fell wounded. He was borne bleeding into
an adjacent house, whither a French boy, page to
Sir Alexander Stewart, a friend of Sandilands, followed,
and plunged a dagger into him, thus ending
a lawsuit according to the taste of the age.
Hence it was that when, in the following year,
John Earl of Montrose-a noble then about fifty
years old, who had been chancellor of the jury that
condemned the Regent Morton, and moreover was
Lord High Chancellor of the kingdom-met Sir
James Sandilands in the High Street, he deemed
it his duty to avenge the death of the Laird of
Halyards. On the first amval of the earl in Edinburgh
Sir James had been strongly recommended
by his friends to quit it, as his enemies were too
strong for him ; but instead of doing so he desired
the aid and assistance of all his kinsmen and
friends, who joined him forthwith, and the two
parties meeting on the 19th of January, near the
Salt Tron, a general attack with swords and hack
buts begun. One account states that John, Master
of Montrose (and father of the great Marquis), first
began the fray; another that it was begun by Sir
James Sandilands, who was cut down and severely
wounded by more than one musket-shot, and
would have been slain outright but for the valour
of a friend named Captain Lockhart. The Lord
Chancellor was in great peril, for the combat was
waged furiously about him, and, according to the
? Historie of King James the Sext,? he was driven
back fighting ?to the College of Justice ( i e . , the
Tolbooth). The magistrates of the town with
fencible weapons separatit the parties for that time ;
and the greatest skaith Sir James gat on his party,
for he himself was left for dead, and a cousingerman
of his, callit Crawford of Kerse, was slain,
and many hurt.? On the side of the earl only one
was killed, but many were wounded.
On the 17th of June, 1605, there was fought in
the High Street a combat between the Lairds of
Edzell and Pittarrow, with many followers on both
sides. It lasted, says Balfour in his AnnaZes, from
nine at night till two next morning, with loss and
many injuries. The Privy Council committed the
leaders to prison.
The next tulzie of which we read arose from the
following circumstance :-
Captain James Stewart (at one time Earl of
Arran) having been slain in 1596 by Sir James
Douglas of Parkhead, a natural son of the Regent
Morton, who cut off his .head at a place called
Catslack, and carried it on a spear, ?leaving his
body to be devoured by dogs and swine;? this
act was not allowed to pass unrevenged by the
house of Ochiltree, to which the captain-who had
been commander of the Royal Guard-belonged.
But as at that time a man of rank in Scotland
could not be treated as a malefactor for slaughter
committed in pursuance of a feud, the offence was
expiated by an assythement. The king strove
vainly to effect a reconciliation ; but for years the
Imds Ochiltree and Douglas (the latter of whom
was created Lord Torthorwald in 1590 by James
VI.) were at open variance.
It chanced that on the 14th of July, 1608, that
Lord Torthonvald was walking in the High Street
a little below the Cross, between six and seven in
the morning, alone and unattended, when he suddenly
met William Stewart, a nephew of the man
he had slain. Unable to restrain the sudden rage
that filled him, Stewart drew his sword, and ere ... Street.] TULZIES IN THE HIGH STREET. 195 - - his own friends and servants into two armed parties, set forth ...

Book 2  p. 195
(Score 0.49)

Great Stuart Street.] LORD JERVISWOODE. 209
memories. He was the second son of George
Baillie of Jerviswoode; and a descendant of that
memorable Baillie of Jerviswoode, who, according
to Hume, was a man of merit and learning, a
cadet of the Lamington family, and called "The
Scottish Sidney," but was executed as a traitor on
the'scaffold at Edinburgh, in 1683, having identified
himself with the interests of Monmouth and Argyle.
* Lord Jerviswoode was possessed of more than
average intellectual gifts, i and still more with
charms of person and manners that were not confined
to the female side of his house. One sister,
the Marchioness of Breadalbane, and another, Lady
Polwarth, were both celebrated for their beauty,
wit, and accomplishments. On the death of their
cousin, in the year 1859, his eldest brother became
tenth. Earl of Haddington, and then Charles, by
royal warrant, was raised to the rank of an earl's
brother. ' '
Prior to this he had a long and brilliant course
in law, and in spotless honour is said to have been
'' second to none." He was called to the Bar in
1830, and after being Advocate Depute, Sheriff of
Stirling, and Solicitor-General, was Lord Advocate
in 1858, and M.P. for West Lothim in the following
year, and a Lord of Session. In 1862 he
became a Lord of Justiciary. He took a great
interest in the fine arts, and was a trustee of the
Scottish Board of Manufactures; but finding his
health failing, he quitted the bench in July, 1874.
* He died in his seventy-fifth year, on the 23rd of
July, 1879, at his residence, Dryburgh House, in
Roxburghshire, near the ruins of the beautiful
abbey in which Scott and his race lie interred. For
the last five years of his life little had been heard of
him in the busy world, while his delicate health
and shy nature denied him the power of taking part
in public matters.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE WESTERN NEW TOWN-HAYMARKET-DALRY-FOUNTAINBRIDGE.
Maitland Street and Shandwick Place--The Albert Institute-Last Residmn of Sir Wa!ter Scott in Edinburgh-Lieutenult-General Dun&
-Melville Street-Patrick F. Tytler-Manor Plan-%. Mary's Cathedral-The Foundation Lid-Ita Sic and Aspcct-Opened for
Service-The Copestone and Cross placed on the Spire-Haymarket Station-Wmter Garden-Donaldron's H o s p i t a l d t l c Terrpoh
Its Chur&es-C&tle Barns-The U. P. Theological Hdl-Union Canal-First Boat Launched-Ddry-The Chieslics-The Caledonian
Distille~-Fountainbridge-Earl Grey Street-Professor G. J. Bell-The . Slaughter-houses-Bain Whyt of Binfield-North British
India. Rubber WorkScottish Vulcanite Company-Their Manufactures, &,.-Adam Ritchie.
THE Western New Town comprises a grand series
of crescents, streets, and squares, extending from
the line of East and West Maitland Streets and
Athole Crescent northward to the New Queensferry
Road, displaying in its extent-and architecture,
while including the singulax-ly ' picturesque
ravine of the Water of Leith, a' brilliance' and
beauty well entitling it to be deemed, par excellence,
" Z?w West End," and was built respectively about
1822, 1850, and 1866.
. Lynedoch Place, so named from the hero of
Barossa, opposite Randolph Crescent, was erected
in 1823, but prior to that a continuation of the line
of Princes Street had been made westward towards
the lands of Coates. This was finally effected by
the erection of East and West Maitland Streets,
Shandwick Place, and Coates and Athole Crescents.
In the latter are some rows of stately old trees,
which only vigorous and prolonged remonstrance
prevented fiom being wantonly cut down, in accordance
with the bad taste which at one time
prevailed in Edinburgh, where a species of war
was waged against all.groWing timber.
75
The Episcopal chapel of St Thomas is now
compacted with the remaining houses at the east
end of Rutland Street, but presents an ornamental
front in 'the Norman style immediately east of
Maitland Street, and shows there a richly-carved
porch, with some minutely beautiful arcade work.
Maitland Street and Shandwick Place, once a
double line of frontdoor houses for people of good
style, are almost entirely lines of shops or other
new buildings. In the first years of the present
century, Lockhart of Castlehill, Hepburn of Clerkington,
Napier of Dunmore, Tait of Glencross,
and Scott of Cauldhouse, had their residences in
the former; and No. 23, now a shop, was the
abode, about the year 1818, of J. Gibson Lockhaqt,
the son-in-law and biographer of Sir Walter
Scott He died at Abbotsford in 1854 .
In Shandwick Place is now the Albert Institute
of the Fine Arts; erected in 1876, when property
to the value of £25,ooo was acquired for the
purpose. The objects of this institute are the
advancement of the cause of art generally, but
more especially contemporary Scottish art; to ... Stuart Street.] LORD JERVISWOODE. 209 memories. He was the second son of George Baillie of Jerviswoode; and ...

Book 4  p. 209
(Score 0.49)

Rothesay might be baptised in Protestant form,
The queen only replied by placing the child in
his arms. Then the aged minister knelt down, and
prayed long and fervently for his happiness and
prosperity, an event which so touched the tender
Mary that she burst into tears; however, the
prince was baptised according to the Roman ritual
at Stirling on the 5th of December.
The birth of a son produced little change in
Damley?s licentious life. He perished as history
records ; and on Bothwell?s flight after Carberry,
and Mary?s captivity in Lochleven, the Regent
Moray resolved by force or fraud to get all the
fortresses into his possession. Sir James Balfour,
a minion of Bothwell?s-the keeper of the famous
silver casket containing the pretended letters and
sonnets of Mary-surrendered that of Edinburgh,
bribed by lands and money as he marched out, and
the celebrated Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange was
appointed governor in his place. That night the
fated Regent Moray entered with his friends, and
slept in the same little apartment wherein, a year before,
his sister had been delivered of the infant now
proclaimed as James VI. ; but instead of keepin& his
promise to Balfour, Moray treacherously made him
a prisoner of state in the Castle of St. Andrews.
CHAPTER VI.
EDIXBURGH C A S T L E - ( C O ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ) .
The Siege of 157yThe City Bombarded from the Castle-Elizabeth?s Spy-Drury?s Dispositions for the Siege-Execution of Kirkaldy
-Repair of the Roins-Execution of Morton-Visit of Charles I.-Procession to Holyrood-Coronation of Charles 1.-The Struggle
against Episcopacy-Siege of 16p-The Spectre Drummer-Besieged by Cromwell-Under the Protector-The Restoration-The Argyles
-The Accession of James VIJ -Sentence of the Earl of Argyl-His clever Escape-Imprisoned four years latu-The Last Sleep oC
Argyle-His Death-Torture of Covenanters-Proclamation of William and Mary-lle Siege of 168g-Interview between Gordoe
and Dundee-The Castle invested-Brilliant Defence-Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon-The Spectre of Ckverhouse. J
MARY escaped from Lochleven on the and of May,
1568, and after her defeat fled to England, the
last country in Europe, as events showed, wherein
she should have sought refuge or hospitality.
After the assassination of the Regent Moray, to
his successor, the Regent Morton, fell the task of
subduing all who lingered in arms for the exiled
queen ; and so well did he succeed in this, that,
save the eleven acres covered by the Castle rock
of Edinburgh, which was held for three years by
Sir William Kirkaldy of Grange with a garrison
resolute as himself, the whole country was now
under his rule.
Kirkaldy, whose services in France and elsewhere
had won him the high reputation of being
? the bravest soldier in Europe,? left nothing undone,
amid the unsettled state of affairs, to
strengthen his .post. He raised and trained soldiers
without opposition, seized all the provisions that
were brought into Leith, and garrisoned St. Giles?s
church, into the open spire of which he swung
up cannon to keep the citizens in awe. This was
on the 28th of March, 1571. After the Duke of
Chatelherault, with his Hamiltons-all queen?s men
-marched in on the 1st of May, the gables of
the church were loopholed for arquebuses. Immediate
means were taken to defend the town
against the Regent. Troops crowded into it; others
were niustered for its protection, and this state
of affairs continued for fully three years, during
which Kirkaldy baffled the efforts of four successive
Regents, till Morton was fain to seek aid
from Elizabeth, to wrench from her helpless refugee
the last strength that remained to her ; and most
readily did the English queen agree thereto.
A truce which had been made between ?Morton
and Kirkaldy expired on the 1st of January, 1573,
and as the church bells tolled six in the morning, the
Castle guns, among which were two &?-pounders,
French battardes, and English? culverins? or 18-
pounders (according to the :? Memoirs ofKirkaldy?),
opened on the city in the dark. It was then full
of adherents of James VI., so Kirkaldy cared not
where his shot fell, after the warning gun had been
previously discharged, that all loyal subjects of
the queen should retire. As the ?grey winter dawn
stole in, over spire and pointed roof, the cannonade
was chiefly directed from the eastern curtain
against the new Fisli Market ; the baikets in
which were beaten so high in the air, that for days
after their contents were seen scattered on the tops
of the highest houses. In one place a single shot
killed five persons and wounded twenty others.
Selecting a night when the wind was high and
blowing eastward, Kirkaldy made a sally, and set
on fire all the thatched houses in West Port and
Castle Wynd, cannonading the while the unfortunates
who strove to quench the flames that rolled
away towards the east. In March Kirkaldy resolutely
declined to come to terms with Morton, though
earnestly besought to do so by Henry Killigrew,
who came ostensibly as an English envoy, but in ... might be baptised in Protestant form, The queen only replied by placing the child in his arms. Then the ...

Book 1  p. 47
(Score 0.49)

238 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
-to hir lovite suitore, Johne Chisholme, his airis and
. assignais, all and hailk hir lands callit the King?s
Werk in Leith, within the boundis specifit in the
infeftment maid to him thairupon, quhilkis than
-war alluterlie decayit, and sensyne are reparit and
re-edifit, he the said Johne Chisholnie, to the policy
.and great decoration of this realme, in that office,
place, and sight of all strangeris and utheris re-
- sortand to the Schore of Leith.?
In 1575 it had been converted into a hospital
- for the plague-stricken ; but when granted to Bernard
Lindsay in 1613, he was empowered to keep
four taverns in the buildings, together with the
tennis-court, for the then favourite pastime of
?catchpel. It continued to be used for that purpose
till the year 1649, when it was taken pos-
2 session of by the magistrates of Edinburgh, and
. converted into a weigh-house.
? In what part of the building Bemard Lindsay
commenced tavern-keeping we are unable to say,?
observes Campbell, in his ? History of Leith,? ? but
.are more than half disposed to believe it was that
old house which projects into Bernard Street, and
is situated nearly opposife the British Linen Com-
,pany?s Bank.? ?? The house alluded to,? adds
Robertson on this, ?has a carved stone in front,
representing a rainbow rising from the clouds, with
a date 165-, the last figure being obliterated, and
-can hatre no reference to Bernard Lindsay.?
The tennis-court of the latter would seem to have
been frequently patronised by the great Marquis of
Montrose in his youth, as in his ?? Household Accounts,?
under date 1627, are the following entries
.(Mait. Club Edit.) :-
?? Item to the poor, my Lord taking coch . . qs.
Item, carrying the graith to Leth . . . . 8s.
Item, to some poor there . . . . . . 3s
Item, to my Lord Nepar?s cochman . .
Item, for balls in the Tinnes Court of Leth..
. . 6s. Sd.
16s.?
The first memorial of Bernard Lindsay is in
the Parish Records ? of South Leith, and is dated
17th July, 1589 :-? The quhilk days comperit
up Bemard Lindsay and Barbara Logan, and gave
their names to be proclamit and mareit, within
this date and Michaelmas.-JoHN LOGANE, Cautioper.?
Another record, 2nnd September, I 633, bears
that the Session ? allowis burial to Barbara Logane,
-.elict of Bernard Lindsaye, besyde her husbande in
the kirk-yeard, in contentation yairof, 100 merks to
be given to the poor.?
From Bernard Lindsay, the name of the present
Bernard Street is derived. Bernard?s Nook has
long been known. ?? In the ? Council Records? of
Edinburgh, 1647,? says Robertson, ?is the following
entry :-? To the purchase of the Kingis Werk,
in Leith, 4,500 lib. Scot.? A previous entry, 1627,
refers to dealing with the sons of Bernard Lindsay,
?for their house in Leith to be a custom-house. . . .?
We have no record that any buildings existed beyond
the bounds of the walls or the present
Bernard Street at this time, the earliest dates on
the seaward part of the Shore being 1674-1681.?
The old Weigh-house, or Tron of Leith, stood
within Bernard?s Nook, on the west side of the
street ; but local, though unsupported, tradition
asserts that the original signal-tower and lighthouse
of Leith stood in the Broad Wynd.
Wilson thus refers to the relic of the Wark
already mentioned :-?? A large stone panel, which
bore the date 1650-the year immediately succeeding
the appropriation of the King?s Wark to
civic purposes-appeared in the north gable of the
old weigh-house, which till recently occupied its
site, with the curious device of a rainbow carved
in bold relief springing at either end from a bank
of clouds.?
? So,? says Arnot, ?? this fabric, which was reared
for the sports and recreations of a Court, was
speedily to be the scene of the ignoble labours of
carmen and porters, engaged in the drudgery of
weighing hemp and of iron.?
Eastward of the King?s Wark, between Bernard?s
Street and chapel, lies the locality once so curiously
designated Little London, and which, according to
Kincaid, measured ninety feet from east to west,
by seventy-five broad over the walls. ? How it
acquired the name of Little London is now
unknown,? says Camphell, in his ? History ? ;
?but it was so-called in the year 1674, We do
not see, however,? he absurdly remarks, ?that it
could have obtained this appellation from any
other circumstauce than its having had some
real or supposed resemblance to the [English]
metropolis.?
As the views preserved of Little London show it
to have consisted of only four houses or so, and
these of two storeys high, connected by a dead
wall with one doorway, facing Bemard Street in
1800, Campbell?s theory is untenable. It is much
more probable that it derived its name from being
the quarters or cantonments of those 1,500 English
soldiers who, under Sir Williani Drury, Marshal of
Berwick, came from England in April, 1573, to
assist the Regent Morton?s Scottish Companies in
the reduction of Edinburgh Castle. These men
departed from Leith on the 16th of the following
June, and it has been supposed that a few of them
may have been induced to remain, and the locality
thus won the name of Little London, in the same ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. -to hir lovite suitore, Johne Chisholme, his airis and . assignais, all and ...

Book 6  p. 238
(Score 0.49)

Granton.] CAROLINE PARK. 311
and most gifted men of his time,? and had his town
residence in one of the flats in James?s Court,
where it is supposed that his eccentric daughter,
who became Lady Dick of Prestonfield, was born.
In 1743, John, the celebrated Duke of Argyle,
entailed his ?? lands of Roystoun and Grantoun,
called Caroline Park ? (? Shaw?s Reg.?), doubtless
so called after his eldest daughter Caroline, who, in
the preceding year, had been married to Francis,
Earl of Dalkeith, and whose mother had been a
maid of honour to Queen Caroline. The estates
of Royston and Granton were her$ and through
her, went eventually to the house of Buccleuch.
The Earl of Dalkeith, her husband, died in the
lifetime of his father, in 1750, in his thirtieth year,
leaving two children, afterwards Henry, Duke of
Buccleuch, and Lady Frances, afterwards wife of
Lord Douglas. .
Lady Caroline Campbell, who was created a
Reeress of Great Britain, by the title of Lady
Greenwich, in 1767, had, some years before that,
married, a second time, the Right Hon. Charle:
Townshend, Chancellor of the Exchequer. He1
barony of Greenwich being limited to the issut
male of her second marriage, became extinct or
her death at Sudbrooke, in her seventy-seventl
year, one of her two sons, who was a captain ir
the 45th Foot, having died unmarried; and thc
other, who was a captain in the 59th, having corn
mitted suicide ; thus, in 1794, the bulk of her rea
and personal property in Scotland and England
but more particularly the baronies of Granton anc
Royston, devolved upon Henry, third Duke o
Buccleuch, K.G. and KT:, in succession, to thc
Duke of Argyle, who appears as ? Lord Royston,?
in the old valuation roll.
Old Granton House, sometimes called ROYS~OI
Castle, which is founded upon an abutting rock
was entered from the north-west by an archway 11
a crenelated barbican wall, and has three crow
stepped gables, each with a large chimney, and iI
the angle a circular tower with a staircase. Thc
external gate, opening to the shore, was in thii
quarter, and was surmounted by two most ornatc
vases of great size j but these had disappeared b;
1854. The whole edifice is an open and roofles
ruin.
On the east are the remains of a magnificen
camage entrance with two side gates, and twc
massive pillars of thirteen courses of stone work
gigantic beads and panels alternately, each havinj
on its summit four inverted trusses, capped b1
vases and ducal coronets, overhanging what wa
latterly an abandoned quany.
The Hopes had long a patrimonial interest ii
;ranton. Sir Thomas Hope, of Craighall, King?s
Pdvocate to Charles I., left four sons, three of
vhom were Lords of Session at one time, who all
narried and left descendants-namely, Sir John
Hope of Craighall, Sir Thomas Hope of Kerse,
sir Alexander Hope of Granton, ahd Sir James
Hope of Hopetown.
Sir Alexander of Granton had the post at court
)f ?? Royal Carver Extraordinary, and he was much
ibout the person of his Majesty.?
The best known of this family in modem times,
was the Right Hon. Charles Hope of Granton,
Lord Advocate of Scotland in 1801, afterwards
Lord President of the Court of Session, to whom
we have already referred amply, elsewhere.
The more modem Granton House, in this
quarter, was for some time the residence of Sir
John McNeill, G.C.B., third son of the late
McNeill of Colonsay, and brother of the peer of
that title, well known as envoy at the court of
Persia, and in many other public important capacities,
LLD. of Edinburgh, and D.C.L: of Oxford.
George Cleghorn, an eminent physician in Dublin,
and his nephew, William Cleghorn, who was associated
with him as Professor of Anatomy in Trinity
College, Dublin, were both natives of Granton.
George, the first man who established, what might
with any propriety, be called an anatomical school
in Ireland, was born in 1716 of poor but reputable
and industrious parents, on a small farm at Granton,
where his father died in I 7 19, leaving a widow and
five children. He received the elements of his
education in the parish school of? Cramond village,
and in 1728 he was sent to Edinburgh to be
further instructed in Latin, Greek, and French,
and, to a great knowledge of these languages, he
added that of mathematics. Three years after he
commenced the study of physics and surgery under
the illustrious Alexander Monro, with whom he
remained five years, and while yet a student, he
and some others, among whom was the celebrated
Dr. Fothergill, established the Royal Medical
Society of Edinburgh.
In 1736 he was appointed surgeon of Moyle?s
Regiment, afterwards the zznd Foot (in which,
sbme years before, the father of Laurence Sterne
had been a captain) then stationed in Minorca,
where he remained with it thirteen years, and
accompanied it in 1749 to Ireland, and in the
following year published, in London, his work on
? The Diseases of Minorca.?
Settling in Dublin in 175 I, in imitation of Monro
and Hunter he began to give yearly lectures
on anatomy. A few years afterwards he was
admitted into the University as an anatomical ... CAROLINE PARK. 311 and most gifted men of his time,? and had his town residence in one of the flats in ...

Book 6  p. 311
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128 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig,
Baron Norton was remarkable for his constant
attention to all religious duties. Throughout his long
life not a Sunday passed in which he was prevented
from attending the service of the Scottish Episcopal
Church, and so inviolable was his regard to truth,
that no argument could ever prevail upon him to
deviate from the performance of a promise, though
obtained contrary to his interest and by artful representations
imperfectly founded.
He died at Abbeyhill in 1820, after officiating as
a Baron of Exchequer for forty-four years. His remains
were taken to England and deposited in the
family vault at Wonersh, near Guildford, in Surrey.
On the death of his elder brother William, without
heirs in 1822, his son Fletcher Norton succeeded as
third Lord Grantley.
It is from him that the three adjacent streets at
the delta of the Regent and London Roads take
their names.
In this quarter lie Comely Green and Comely
Gardens. During the middle of the last century,
the latter would seem to have been a species of
lively Tivoli Gardens for the lower classes in Edinburgh,
though Andrew Gibb, the proprietor thereof,
addresses his advertisement to ? gentlemen and
ladies,? in the Chrant of September 1761.
Therein he announces that he intends U to give
up Comely Gardens in a few weeks, and hopes
they will favour his undertaking and encourage him
to the last. As the ball nights happened to be
rainy these three weeks past he is to keep the
gardens open every day for this season, that gentlemen
and ladies may have the benefit of a walk
there upon paying zd to the doorkeeper for keeping
the walk in order, and may have tea, coffee,
or fruit any night of the ball nights ; and hereby
takes this opportunity of returning his hearty thanks
to the noblemen, gentlemen, and ladies, who have
done him the honour to favour him with their company,
and begs the continuance of their favour, as
the undertaking has been accompanied with great
expense. Saturday night is intended to be the last
public one of this season.?
A subsequent advertisement announces for sale,
?the enclosed grounds of Comely Gardens, together
with the large house then commonly called
the Green House, and tlie office, houses, &c., on
the east side of the road leading to Jock?s Lodge.?
Adjoining the new abbey church, at the end of
a newly-built cuZ-de-sac, is one of those great schools
built by the Edinburgh School Board, near Norton
Place.
In architectural
design it corresponds with the numerous Board
Schools erected elsewhere in the city. Including
For the site Az,ooo was paid.
fittings, the edifice cost ,&7,700, Extending across
the width of the building, on both flats, are two
great halls, with four class-rooms attached. The
infants are accommodated down-stairs, the juveniles
above.
On the ground flat is a large sewing-room All
the class-rooms are lofty and well ventilated. At
the back are playgrounds, partly covered, for the
use of the pupils, whose average number is 540.
The long thoroughfare which runs northward from
this quarter, named the Easter Road, was long the
chief access to the city from Leith j the only other,
until the formation of the Walk, being the Western
or Bonnington Road.
On the east side of it are the vast premises built
in 1878 by the Messrs. W. and A. K. Johnston for
business purposes, as engravers, printers, and pub
lishers, and a little to the north of these are the
recently-built barracks for the permanent use of
the City Militia, or ?Duke of Edinburgh?s Own
Edinburgh Artillery,? consisting of six batteries,
having twenty officers, including the Prince.
Passing an old mansion, named the Drum, in the
grounds of which were dug up two very fine claymores,
now possessed by the proprietor, Mr. Smith-
Sligo of Inzievar, we find a place on the west side
of the way that is mentioned more than once in
Scottish history, the Quarry Holes.
In 1605, Sir Janies Elphinstone, first Lord
Balmerino, became proprietor of the lands of
Quarry Holes after the ruin of Logan of Restalng.
The Upper Quarry Holes were situated on the
declivity of the Calton Hill, at the head of the
Easter Road, and allusion is made to them in some
trials for witchcraft in the reign of James VI.
At the foot of this road a new Free Church for
South Leith was erected in 1881, and during the
excavations four humad skeletons were discoveredthose
of the victims of war or a plague.
Eashvard of this, cut off on the south by the line
of the North British Railway, and partially by the
water of Lochend on the west, lies the still secluded
village of Restalrig, which, though in the immediate
vicinity of the city, seems, somehow, to have
fallen so completely out of sight, that a vast portion
of the inhabitants appear scarcely to be aware
of its existence ; yet it teems with antiquarian and
historical memories, and possesses an example of
ecclesiastical architecture the complete restoration
of which has been the desire of many generations
of men of taste, and in favour of which the late
David Laing wrote strongly-the ancient church
of St. Triduana.
But long before the latter was erected Restalrig
was chiefly known from its famous old well. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig, Baron Norton was remarkable for his constant attention to all religious ...

Book 5  p. 128
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" Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower,
God grant thou sinke for sinne,
An that even for the black dinner
Earle Douglas got therein."
This affair instead of pacifying the country only
led to ruin and civil strife. The Douglas took arms
under James IV., Duke of Touraine and seventh
Earl of Douglas and Angus, and for a long space the
city and neighbourhood were the scene of contest
and ravage by the opposite factions. The Chancellor
remained secure in the Castle, and, to be revenged
on Sir John Forrester, who had laid waste his lands
at Crichton in 1445, he issued forth with his
troopers and garrison, and gave to fire and sword
all the fertile estates of the Douglases and Forresters
westward of the city, including Blackness,
Abercorn, Strathbroc, aid Corstorphine ; and, with
other pillage, carrying off a famous breed of
Flanders mares, he returned to his eyry.
Douglas, who, to consolidate his power had
espoused his cousin the Fair Maid of Galloway,
adding thus her vast estates to his own, and had now,
as hereditary lieutenant-general of the kingdom,
obtained the custody of the young king, came to
Edinburgh with a vast force composed of the
Crown vassals and his own, and laid siege to the
Castle, which the Chancellor defended for nine
months, nor did he surrender even to a summons
sent in the king's name till he had first seciued
satisfactory terms for himself; whfle of his less
fortunate coadjutors, some only redeemed their
lives with their estates, and the others, including
three members of the Livingstone family, were
beheaded within its walls.
The details of this long siege are unknown, but
to render the investment more secure the Parliament,
which had begun its sittings at Perth, was
removed to Edinburgh on the 15th of July, 1446.
After all this, Earl Douglas visited Italy, and in
his absence during the jubilee at Rome in 1450,
Crichton contrived to regain the favour of James
II., who haviyg now the government in his own
hands, naturally beheld with dread the vast power
of the house of Touraine.
How Douglas perished under the king's dagger
in Stirling in 1452 is a matter of general history.
His rival died at a very old age, three years
afterwards, and was interred among his race in
the present noble church of Crichton, which he
founded.
Beneath the Castle ramparts the rising city was
now fast increasing; and in 1450, after the battle
of Sark, in which Douglas Earl of Ormond de.
feated the English with great slaughter, it was
deemed necessary to enclose the city by walls,
scarcely a trace of which now remains, except the
picturesque old ruin known as the Well-house
Tower, at the base of the Castle rock. They ran
along the southern declivity of the ridge on which
the most ancient parts of the town were built, and
after crossing the West Bow -then deemed the
grand entrance to Edinburgh-ran between the
High Street and the hollow, where the Cowgate
(which exhibited then but a few minor edifices) now
stands; they then crossed the main ridge at the
Nether Bow, and terminated at the east end of
the North Loch, which was then formed as a
defence on the north, and in the construction of
which the Royal Gardens were sacrificed. From
this line of defence the entire esplanade of the
Castle was excluded. " Within these ancient
limits," says Wilson, '' the Scottish capital must
have possessed peculiar means of defence-a city
set on a hill and guarded by the rocky fortress,
there watching high the least alarms; it only
wanted such ramparts, manned by its burgher
watch, to enable it to give protection to its princes
and to repel the' inroads of the southern invader.
'The important position which it now held may be
inferred from the investment in the following year
of Pntrick Cockburn of Newbigging (the Provost
of Edinburgh) in the Chancellor's office as governor
of the Castle, as well as his appointment, along
with other commissioners, after the great defeat of
the English at the battle of Sark, to treat for the
renewal of a truce." It seemed then to be always
'' truce " and never peace !
In the Parliament of 1455 we find Acts passed
for watching the fords of the Tweed, and the
erection of bale-fires to give alarm, by day and
night, of inroads from England, to warn Hume,
Haddington, Dunbar, Dalkeith, Eggerhope, and
Edinburgh Castle, thence to Stirling and the north
-arrangements which would bring all Scotland
under arms in two hours, as the same system did
at the time of the False Alarm in 1803. One
bale-he was a signal that the English were in
motion; two that they were advancing; four in a
row signified that they were in great strength. All
men in arms westward of Edinburgh were ta
muster there ; all eastward at Haddington ; and
every Englishman caught in Scotland was lawfully
the prisoner of whoever took him (Acts, 12th Pal.
James 11.). But the engendered hate and jealousy
of England wopld seem to have nearly reached its
culminating point when the 11th Parliament of
James VI., chap. 104, enacted, ungallantly, "that
no Scotsman marrie an Englishwoman without the
king's license under the Great Seal, under pain of
death and escheat of moveables." ... Edinburgh Castle, tome and tower, God grant thou sinke for sinne, An that even for the black dinner Earle ...

Book 1  p. 31
(Score 0.48)

Restalrig.] THE CHURCHYARD. 131
That the church was not utterly destroyed is
proved by the fact that the choir walls of this
monument of idolatry ? were roofed over in 1837,
as has been stated.
An ancient crypt, or mausoleum, of large diniensions
and octangular in form, stands on the south
side of the church. Internally it is constructed with
a good groined roof, and some venerable yews cast
their shadow over the soil that has accumulated
above it, and in which they have taken root. It is
believed to have been erected by Sir Robert Logan,
knight, of Restalrig, who died in 1439, according
to the obituary of the Preceptory of St. Anthony at
Leith, and it has been used as a last resting-place
for several of his successors. Some antiquaries,
however, have supposed that it was undoubtedly
attached to the college, perhaps as a chapter-house,
or as a chapel of St. Triduana, but constructed on
the model of St. Margaret?s Well. Among others
buried here is ?LADY JANEr KER, LADY RESTALRIG,
QUHA DEPARTED THIS LIFE 17th MAY, 1526.?
Wilson, in his ?? Reminiscences,? mentions that
?? Restalrig kirkyard was the favourite cemetery of
the Nonjuring Scottish Episcopalians of the last
century, when the use of the burial service was
proscribed in the city burial-grounds ; ? and a strong
division of dead cavalry have been interred there
from the adjacent barracks. From Charles Kirkpatrick
Sharpe he quotes a story of a quarrel carried
beyond the grave, which may be read upon a flat
stone near that old crypt.
Of the latter wrote Sharpe, ?I believe it belongs
to Lord Bute, and that application was made to him
to allow Miss Hay-whom I well knew-daughter
of Hay of Restalrig, Prince Charles?s forfeited
secretary, to be buried in the vault. This was
refused, and she lies outside the door. May the
earth lie light on her, old lady kind and vener.
able !?
In 1609 the legal rights of the church and parish
of Restalrig, with all their revenues and pertinents,
were formally conferred upon the church of South
Leith.
In 1492, John Fraser, dean of Restalrig, wa?
appointed Lord Clerk Register; and in 154C
another dean, John Sinclair, was made Lord 01
Session, and was afterwards Bishop of Brechin and
Lord President of the Court of Session. He it war
who performed the marriage ceremony for Queen
* Mary and Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. In 1592
the deanery was dissolved by Act of Parliament,
and divided between ? the parsonage of Leswadc
and parsonage of Dalkeith, maid by Mr. Georgt
Ramsay, dean of Restalrig.?
After the Logans-of whom elsewhere-tht
Lords Balmerino held the lands of Restalrig till
their forfeiture in I 746, and during the whole period
of their possession, appropriated the vaults of the
forsaken and dilapidated church as the burial-place
of themselves and their immediate relations. From
them it passed to the Earls of Bute, with whose
family it still remains.
In the burying-ground here, amid a host of
ancient tombs, are some of modem date, marking
where lie the father of Lord Brougham ; Louis
Cauvin, who founded the hospital which bears his
name at Duddingston ; the eccentric doctor known
as Lang Sandy Wood,? and his kindred, including
the late Lord Wood ; and Lieutenant-Colonel
William Rickson, of the I 9th Foot, a brave and distinguished
soldier, the comrade and attached friend
of Wolfe, the hero of Quebec. His death is thus
recorded in the Scots Magazine for 1770 :-cr At
his house in Broughton, Lieutenant-Colonel William
Rickson, Quartermaster-General and Superintendent
of Roads in North Britain.? His widow died
so lately as 1811, as her tomb at Restalrig bears,
?? in the fortieth year of her widowhood?
Here, too, was interred, in 1720, the Rev. Alexander
Rose, the last titular bishop of Edinburgh.
In tracing out the ancient barons of Restalrig,
among the earliest known is Thomas of Restalrig,
nxa 1210, whose name appears in the Regktruum
de DunferrnZine as Sheriff of Edinburgh.
In the Macfarlane MSS. in the Advocates?
Library, there is a charter of his to the Priory of
Inchcolm, in the Firth of Forth, circa 1217, very
interesting from the localities therein referred to,
and the tenor of which runs thus in English :-
?To all seeing or hearing these writings,
Thomas of Lestalrig wishes health. Know ye,
that for the good of my soul, and the souls of all
my predecessors and successors, and the soul of
my wife, I have given and conceded, and by this
my charter have confirmed, to God and the canons
of the church of St. Columba on the Isle, and the
canons of the same serving God, and that may yet
serve Him forever, that whole land which Baldwin
Comyn was wont to hold from me in the town of
Leith, namely, that land which is next and adjoining
on the south to that land which belonged to
Ernauld of Leith, and to twenty-four acres and a
half of arable land in my estate of Lestalrig in that
field which is called Horstanes, on the west part of
the same field, and on the north part of the high
road between Edinburgh and Leith (it., the Easter
Road) in pure and perpetual gift to be held by
them, with all its pertinents and easements, and
with common pasture belocging to such land, and
with free ingress and egress, with carriage, team, ... THE CHURCHYARD. 131 That the church was not utterly destroyed is proved by the fact that the choir ...

Book 5  p. 131
(Score 0.48)

26 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University.
Among the first bequests we may mention that
of 8,000 nierks, or the wadsett of the lands ol
Strathnaver, granted by Robert Reid, Prior 01
? Beaulieu and last Catholic Bishop of Orkney, to
build a college in Edinburgh, having three schools,
one for bairns in grammar, another for those that
learn poetry and oratory, with chambers for the
regent?s hall, and the third for the civil and canon
law, and which is recorded by the Privy Council 01
Scotland (1569-1578) ?as greatly for the common
weal and policy of the realm.? Robert Reid was a
man far in advance of his time, and it is to him
that Edinburgh owes its famous university.
The patronage of James VI. and private benefactions
enabled it to advance in consequence. Sir
William Nisbet, Bart., of Dean, provost of the city
in 1669, gave LI,OOO Scots towards the maintenance
of a chair of theology; and on the 20th
hfarch in the following year, according to Stark,
the Common Council nominated professors for that
Faculty and for Physic.
In 1663 General Andrew, Earl of Teviot, Governorof
Dunkirk, and commander of the British troops
in Tangiers (where, in the following year he was
slain in battle by the Moors), bequeathed a sum
to build eight rooms ?? in the college of Edinburgh,
where he had been educated.? William 111.
bestowed upon it an annuity of A300 sterling,
which cost hhn nothing, as it was paid out of the
?bishops? rents in Scotland. Part of this was withdrawn
by his successor Queen Anne, and thus a
?professor and fifteen students were lost to the
university. Curiously enough this endowment
was recovered quite recently. It does not appear
that there are now any ? I bishops? rents ? forthconiing,
and when the chair of Intefnational Law was
re-founded in 1862, a salary of A250 a year was
attached to it, out of funds voted by Parliament.
But in an action in the Scottish Courts, Lord
Rutherfurd-Clark held that the new professorship
was identical with the old, and that Professor
Lorirner, its present holder, was entitled to receive
in the future the additional sum of A150 from the
Crown, though not any arrears.
One of the handsomest of recent bequests was
that of General John Reid, colonel of the 88th
Regiment, whose obituzry notice appears thus in
the Scots Magazine, under date February 6th, 1807 :
?? He was eighty years of age, and has left above
~50,000. Three gentlemen are named executors
to whom he has left LIOO each ; the remainder of
his property in trust to be life-rented by an only
daughter (who married without his consent), whom
failing, to the College of Edinburgh. When it
takes that destination he desires his executors to
apply it to the college imjrinzis, to institute a professor
of music, with a salary of not less than A500 a
year ; in other respects to be applied to the purchase
of a library, or laid out in such manner as
the principal and professors may think proper.?
Thus the chair of music was instituted, and
with it the yearly musical Reid festival, at which
the first air always played by the orchestra is
?The Garb of Old Gaul,? a stirring march of
the General?s own composition.
By the bequest of Henry George Watson,
accountant in Edinburgh, AI 1,000 was bestowed
on the University in I 880, to found the ?? Watson-
Gordon Professorship of Fine Art,? in honour of
his brother, the late well-known Sir John Watson-
Gordon, President of the Scottish Academy ; and
in the same year, Dr. Vans Dunlop of Rutland
Square, Edinburgh, left to the University A50,ooo
for educational purposes ; and by the last lines of
his will, Thomas Carlyle, in 1880, bequeathed
property worth about A300 a year to the University,
to found ten bursaries for the benefit of
the poorer students j and the document concludes
with the expression of his wish that ?the small
bequest might run forever, a thread of pure water
from the Scottish rocks, trickling into its little basin
by the thirsty wayside for those whom it veritably
belongs to.?:
By an Act I and 2 Vic. cap. 55, (?the various
sums of money mortified in the hands of the
Town Council, for the support of the University,
amounting to A I ~ , I I ~ were discharged, and an
annual payment of L2,500 (since reduced to
A2,170) secured upon the revenues of Leith
Docks,? is assigned to the purposes of the earlier
bequests for bursaries, Src.
The total income of the university, as given in
the calendar, averages above ~24,000 yearly.
The library is a noble hall 198 feet long by
50 in width, and originated in 1580 in a bequest
by Mr. Clement Little, Commissary of Edinburgh,
a learned citizen (and brother of the Provost
Little of Over-Liberton), who bequeathed his
library to the city ?and the Kirk of God.? This
collection amounted to about 300 volumes, chiefly
theological, and remained in an edifice near St.
Giles?s churchyard till it was removed to the old
college about 1582. There were originally two
libraries belonging to the university; but one consisted
mostly of books of divinity appropriated
solely to the use of students of theology.
The library was largely augmented by donations
From citizens, from the alurnni of the University,
znd the yearly contributions of those who graduated
in arts. Drummond of Hawthornden, the cele ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [University. Among the first bequests we may mention that of 8,000 nierks, or the ...

Book 5  p. 26
(Score 0.48)

Leith Wynd.] THE TRINITY HOSPITAL. 307
was abandoned. At length, as stated, Robert
Pont, in. 1585, resigned all his rights and interests
in the establishment, for the sum of 300 merks
down, and an annuity of A160 Scots.
In 1587 an Act was passed revoking all grants
made during the king?s minority, of hospitals,
Maiso?ss Dieu, and ? lands or rentis appertaining
thereto,? the object of which was, that they might
be applied to this original purpose-the sustentation
of the poor, and not to the aggrandisement of
mere individuals ; and in this Act it was specially
ordained, that the rents of the Trinity College,
? quhilk is now decayit,? be .assigned to ? the new
hospital1 erectit be the Provest, Baillies, and
Counsall;? and thus it became for ever a corporation
charity, for which a suitable edifice was found
by simply repairing the ruinous buildings, occupied
of old by the Provost and prebends, south of the
church, and on the west side of the wynd.
It was a fine specimen of the architecture and
monastic accommodation of the age in which it
was erected. It was two storeys high, and formed
two sides of a square, and though far from ornamental,
its air of extreme antiquity, the smallness
and depth of its windows, its silent, melancholy,
and deserted aspect, in the very heart of a crowded
city, and latterly amid the uproar and bustle of the
fast-encroaching railway, seldom failed to strike the
passer with a mysterious interest.
Along the interior of the upper storey of the
longer side there was a gallery, about half the
width of the house, lighted from the west, which
served alike as a library (consisting chiefly of
quaint old books of dry divinity), a promenade, and
grand corridor, winged with a range of little rooms,
some whilom the prebends? cells, each of which had
a bed, table, and chair, for a single occupant The
other parts of the building were more modem
sitting rooms, the erection of the sixteenth century,
when it became destined to support decayed
burgesses of Edinburgh, their wives and unmarried
children, above fifty years of age. ?Five men
and two women were first admitted into it,? says
h o t , ? and, the number gradually increasing,
amounted AD. 1700 to fifty-four persons. It was
found, however, that the funds of the hospital
could not then support so many, and the number
of persons maintained in it,has frequently varied.
At present (?779) there are within the hospital
forty men and women, and, there are besides twentysix
out-pensioners. The latter have E 6 a year,
the former are maintained in a very comfortable
manner. Each person has a convenient room.
The men are each allowed a hat, a pair of breeches,
a pair of shoes, a pair of stackings, two shirts, and
two neckcloths, yearly; and every other year a
coat?and waistcoat The women have yearly, a
pair of shoes, pair of stockings, two shifts; and
every other year a gown and petticoat. For buying
petty necessaries the men are allowed 6s. Sd.,
the women 6s. 6d., yearly. Of food, each person
has a daily allowance of twelve ounces of household
bread; and of ale, the men a Scots pint each,
the women two-thirds of a pint. For breakfast
they have oatmeal-porridge, and for dinner, four
days in the week, broth and boiled meat, two days
roast meat, and each Monday, in lieu of flesh, the
men are allowed zd., the women rid. apiece.?
Such was this old charity towards the close of
the eighteenth century. The inmates were of a
class above the common, and whom a poor-house
life would have degraded, yet quarrels, even riots,
among them were 80 frequent, that the attention of
the governors had more than once to be called
to the subject, though they met only at meals
and evening worship. Yet, occasionally, some
belonged to the better classes of society. Lord
Cockburn, writing in 1840, says:-?One of the
present female pensioners is ninety-six. She was
sitting beside her own fire. The chaplain shook her
kindly by the hand, and asked her how she was.
? Very weel-just in my creeping ordinary.? There
is one Catholic here, a merry little woman, obviously
with some gentle blood in her veins, and delighted
to allude to it. This book she got from Sir John
Something ; her great friend had been Lady something
Cunningham ; and her spinet was the oldest
that had ever been made ; to convince me of which
she opened it, and pointed exultingly to the year
I 776. Neither she nor the ninety-six-year-old
was in an ark, but in a small room. On overhearing
my name, she said she was once at Miss Brandon?s
boarding-school, in Bristo Street, with a Miss
Matilda Cockburn, ? a pretty little girl.? I told her
that I remembered that school quite well, and that
the little girl was my sister ; and then I added as a
joke, that all the girls at that school were said
to have been pretty, and all light-headed, and given
to flirtation ; the tumult revived in the vestal?s veins.
Delighted with the imputation, she rubbed her
hands together, and giggled till she wept.? The
octogenarian he refers to was a Miss Gibb, and
the last nearly of the old original inmates.
By 1850 the revenues amounted to about
#,ooo per annum.
At its demolition, in 1845, forty-two persons
were maintained within the hospital, who then
received pensions of A26 each. Those elected
since that period receive L20 yearly each; one
hundred and twenty others have an annual allowance ... Wynd.] THE TRINITY HOSPITAL. 307 was abandoned. At length, as stated, Robert Pont, in. 1585, resigned all ...

Book 2  p. 307
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Here some stone coffins, or cists, were found by
the workmen, when preparing the ground for the - -
erection of Oxford Terrace, which f&es the north,
and has a most commanding site; and in October,
1866, at the foundations of Lennox Street, which runs
southward from the terrace at an angle, four solitary
ancient graves were discovered a little below the
surface. ?They lay north and south,? says a local
annalist, ?and were lined with slabs of undressed
stone. The length of these graves was abou!
four feet, and the breadth little beyond two feet,
so that the bodies must have been buried in a
sitting posture, or compressed in some .way. This
must have been the case in the short cists or coffins
made of slabs of stone, while in the great cists,
which were about six feet long, the body lay at full
length.?
On both sides of the Water of Leith lies Stockbridge,
some 280 yards east of the Dean Bridge.
Once a spacious suburb, it is now included in the
growing northern New Town, and displays a
curious mixture of grandeur and romance, with
something of classic beauty, and, in more than
one quarter, houses of rather a mean and humble
character. One of its finest features is the double
crescent called St. Bernard?s, suggested by Sir David
Wilkie, constructed by Sir Henry Raeburn, and
adorned with the grandest Grecian Doric pillars
that are to be found in any other edifice not a
public one.
Here the Water of Leith at times flows with
considerable force and speed, especially in seasons
of rain and flood. Nicoll refers to a visitation in
1659, when ?the town of Edinburgh obtained an
additional impost upon the ale sold in its boundsit
was now a full penny a pint, so that the liquor rose
to the unheard of price of thirty-two pence Scots,
for that quantity. Yet this imposition seemed not
to thrive,? he continues superstitiously, ? for at the
same instant, God frae the heavens declared His
anger by sending thunder and unheard-of tempests,
storms, and inundations of water, whilk destroyed
their common mills, dams, and warks, to the toun?s
great charges and expenses. Eleven mills belonging
to Edinburgh, and five belonging to Heriot?s Hospital,
all upon the Water of Leith, were destroyed on
this occasion, with their dams, water-gangs, timber
and stone-warks, the haill wheels of their mills,
timber-graith, and haill other warks.?
In 1794-5 there was a ?spate? in the river,
when the water rose so high that access to certain
houses in Haugh Street was entirely cut off, and a
mamage party-said to be that of the parents of
David Roberts, R.A.-was nearly swept away. In
1821 a coachman with his horse was carried down
the stream, and drowned near the gate of Inverleith ;
and in 1832 the stream flooded all the low-lying
land about Stockbridge, and did very considerable
damage.
This part of the town annot boast of great
antiquity, for we do not find it mentioned by
Nicoll in the instance of the Divine wrath being
excited by the impost on ale, or in the description
of Edinburgh preserved in the Advocates? Library,
and supposed to have been written between 1642
and 1651, and which refers to many houses and
hamlets on the banks of the Water of Leith,
The steep old Kirk Loan, that led, between
hedgerows, to St. Cuthbert?s, is now designated
Church Lane; where it passed the grounds of
Drumsheugh it was bordered by a deep ditch. A
village had begun to spring up here towards the
end of the seventeenth century, and by the year
1742, says a pamphlet by Mr. C. Hill, the total
population amounted to 574 persons. Before the
city extended over the arable lands now occupied
by the New Town, the village would be deemed as
somewhat remote from the old city, and the road
that led to it, down by where the Royal Circus
stands now, was steep, bordered by hawthorn
hedges, and known as ?Stockbrig Brae.?
It is extremely probable that the name originated
in the circumstance of the first bridge having been
built of wood, for which the old Saxon word was
sfoke; and a view that has been preserved of it,
drawn in 1760, represents it as a structure of beams
and pales, situated a little way above where the
present bridge stands.
In former days, the latter-like that at Canonmills-
was steep and narrow, but by raising up
the banks on both sides the steepness was removed,
and it was widened to double its original breadth.
The bridge farther up the stream, at Mackenzie
Place, was built for the accommodation of the
feuars of St. Bernard?s grounds ; and between these
two a wooden foot-bridge at one time existed, for
the convenience of the residents in Anne Street.
The piers of it are still remaining.
St. Bernard?s, originally a portion of the old
Dean estate, was acquired by Mr. Walter ROSS,
W.S., whose house, a large, irregular, three-storeyed
edifice, stood on the ground now occupied by the
east side of Carlton Street; and this was the
house afterwards obtained by Sir Henry Raeburn,
and in which he died. Mr. Ross was a man of
antiquarian taste, and this led him to collect many
of the sculptured stones from old houses then in
the process of demolition in the city, and some
of these he built into the house. In front of one
projection he built a fine Gothic window, and ... some stone coffins, or cists, were found by the workmen, when preparing the ground for the - - erection of ...

Book 5  p. 71
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The Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267
dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In
the dexter canton, a saltire argent, under the imperial
crown, surmounted by a thistle j and in base
a castle argent, masoned sable, within a border,
charged with instruments used by the society. To
the surgeons. were added the apothecaries.
James IV., one of the greatest patrons of art and
science in his time, dabbled a little in surgery and
chemistry, and had an assistant, John the Leeche,
whom he brought from the Continent. Pitscottie
tells us that James was ?ane singular guid chirurgione,?
and in his daily expense book, singular
entries occur in 1491, of payments made to people
to let him bleed them and pull their teeth :-
?Item, to ane fallow, because the King pullit
furtht his twtht, xviii shillings.
?Item, to Kynnard, ye barbour, for tua teith
drawin furtht of his hed be the King, xvci sh.?
The barbers were frequently refractory, and
brought the surgeons into the Court of Session t e
adjust rights, real or imagined. But after the union
of the latter with the apothecaries, they gave up
the barber craft, and were formed into one corporation
by an Act of Council, on the 25th February,
1657, as already mentioned in the account of
the old Royal College of Surgeons.
The first admitted after the change, was Christopher
Irving, recorded as ?? ane free chmgone,?
without the usual words ?and barber,? after his
name. He was physician to James VII., and from
him the Irvings of Castle Irving, in .Ireland, are
descended.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE SOCIETY.
The Candlemaker Row--The ? Cunzie Nook?-Tbe of Charles 1.-The Candlemakers? Hall--The Afhk of Dr. Symons-The Society, IS+
Brown Square-Proposed Statue to George III., x~-Di&nguished Inhabitants-Si IsIay Campbell-Lard Glenlec-Haigof Beimerside
--Si John Lerlie-Miss Jeannie Elliot-Argyle Square-Origin of it-Dr. Hugh Bkit-The Sutties of that Ilk-Trades Maiden Hospital-
-Mint0 House and the Elliots-New Medical School-Baptist Church-Chambers Strect-Idustrial Museum of Sdence and Art-Its
Great Hall and adjoining Halls-Aim of the Architect-Contents and Models briefly glanced at-New Watt Institution and School of
ArtsPhrenoloEical Museum-New Free Tron Church-New Tiainiing College of the Church of Scotland-The Dental Hospita-The
.
Theatre ofvari.&s.
THE Candlemaker Row is simply the first portion
of the old way that led from the Grassmarket and
Cowgate-head, where Sir John Inglis resided in
1784, to the lands of Bnsto, and thence on to
Powburn ; and it was down this way that a portion
of the routed Flemings, with Guy of Namur at their
head, fled towards the Castle rock, after their
defeat on the Burghmuir in 1335.
In Charles I.?s time a close line of street with a
great open space behind occupied the whole of the
east side, from the Greyfriars Port to the Cowgatehead.
The west side was the boundary wall of the
churchyard, save at the foot, where two or three
houses appear in 1647, one of which, as the Cunzie
Nook, is no doubt that referred to by Wilson as
a curious little timber-fronted tenement, surmounted
with antique crow-steps ; an open gallery
projects in front, and rude little; shot-windows admit
the light to the decayed and gloomy chambers
therein.? This, we presume, to be the Cunzie Nook,
a place where the Mint had no doubt been estab
Cshed at some early period, possibly during some
of the strange proceedings in the Regency of Mary
of Guise, when the Lords of the Congregation
?past to Holyroodhous, and tuik and intromettit
With the ernis of the Cunzehous.?
On the west side, near the present entrance to
the churchyard of the Greyfriars, stands the hall of
the ancient Corporation of the Candlemakers, which
gave its name to the Row, with the arms of the
craft boldly cut over the doorway, on a large oblong
panel, and, beneath, their appropriate motto,
. Omnia man;jesfa Zuce.
Internally, the hall is subdivided into many residences,
smaller accommodation sufficing for the
fraternity in this age of gas, so that it exists little
more than in name. In 1847 the number of its
members amounted to only fhw, who met periodically
for various purposes, connected with the corporation
and its funds.
Edgar?s plan shows, in the eighteenth century, the
close row of houses that existed along the whole of
the west side, from the Bristo Port to the foot, and
nearly till Forrest Road was opened up in a linewith
the central Meadow Walk.
Humble though this locality may seem now, Sir
James Dunbar, Bart., of Dum, rented No. ZI in
1810, latterly a carting office. In those days the
street was a place ?of considerable bustle; the
Hawick dilligence started twice weekly from
Paterson?s Inn, a well-known hostel in its time, ... Cowgate.] THE CUNZIE NOOK. 267 dexter hand palmed, and in its palm an eye. In the dexter canton, a saltire ...

Book 4  p. 267
(Score 0.48)

and ?married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on
finding that the former was about to seize her
dower-lands, fled, with her third husband and all
his vassals, to the Castle of Edinburgh, and, joining
her son, prepared to resist to the last; but Earl
Archibald only laughed when he heard of it ; and,
displaying his banner, invested the fortress at the
head of his own vassals and those of the Crown.
Margaret found that she dared not disobey, and
her soldiers capitulated.
Bathed in tears, on her knees, at the outer gate,
quailing under the grim eye of one who was so
recently her husband, at his command she placed
the keys ?? in the hands of her son, then a tall and
handsome yodth, imploring pardon for &er husband,
for his brother Sir James Stuart, and lastly for
herself. Angus smiled scornfully beneath his barred
helmet at her constrained submission, and haughtily
directed the Lord Methven and others to be imprisoned
in the towers from which they had so
lately defied him.?
In 1528, James, at last, by a midnight flight with
only two attendants, escaped the Douglas thrall,
and fled to Falkland Palace, after which event, with
a decision beyond his years, he proceeded to assert
his own authority, and summoned the estates to
meet him at Stirling. The Douglases were declared
outlaws and traitors, whereupon Angus and
all the barons of his name fled to England.
On the death of James V., in 1542, the Regent
Arran thoroughly repaired the Castle, and appointed
governor Sir James Hamilton of Stanehouse, a gallant
soldier, who proved worthy of the trust reposed
in him when, in 1544, Henry VIII., exasperated at
the Scots for declining to fulfil a treaty, made by an
English faction, affiancing the young Queen Mary
to his only son Edward, sent the Earl of Hertford
with an army, and zoo sail under Dudley Lord
PIsle to the Forth, with orders, so characteristic of
a ferociouk despot, ? to put all to fire and sword ; to
burn Edinburgh, raze, deface, and sack it ; to beat
down and overthrow the Castle ; to sack Holyrood
and as many towns and villages as he could; to
sack Leith, burn, and subvert it, and all the rest ;
putting man, woman, and child, to fire and sword,
without exception.?*
Hertford suddenly landed with 10,000 men near
an old fortalice, called the Castle of Wardie, on
the beach that bordered a desolate moor of the
same name, and seized Leith and Newhaven.
Cardinal Beaton and the Regent Arran lay in the
vicinity with an army. The former proposed battle,
but the latter, an irresolute man, declined, and -
Tytla.
retired in the night towards Linlithgow with his
hastily levied troops.
Lord Evers, with 4,000 horse, had now joined
the English from Berwick, and Hertford arrogantly
demanded the instant surrender of the infant
queen ; and being informe4 that the nation would
perish to a man rather than submit to terms so
ignominious, he advanced against Edinburgh, from
whence came the Provost, Sir Adam Otterburn, to
make terms, if possible ; but Hertford would have
nothing save an unconditional surrender of life and
property, together with the little queen, then at
Stirling.
? Then,? said the Provost, ? ?twere better that
the city should stand on its defence!? He
galloped back to put himself at the head of the
citizens, who were in arms under the Blue Blanket.
The English, after being repulsed with loss at the
Leith Wynd Port, entered by the Water Gate,
advanced up the Canongate to the Nether Bow
Port, which they blew open by dint of artillery, and
a terrible slaughter of the citizens ensued. All resisted
manfully. Among others was one named
David Halkerston of Halkerston, who defended
the wynd that for ?300 years bore his name, and
perished there sword in hand. Spreading through
the city like a flood, the English fired it in eight
places, and as the High Street was then encumbered
with heavy fronts of ornamented timber that erst had
grown in the forest of Drumsheugh, the smoke of
the blazing mansions actually drove the invaders
out to ravage the adjacent country, prior to which
they met with a terrible repulse in an attempt
to attack the Castle. Four days Hertford toiled
before it, till he had 500 men killed, an incredible
number wounded, and some of his guns dismounted
by the fire of the garrison. Led by Stanehouse,
the Scots made a sortie, scoured the Castle hill,
and carried off Hertford?s guns, among which
were some that they had lost at Flodden. The
English then retreated, leaving Edinburgh nearly
one mass of blackened ruin, and the whole country
burned and wasted for seven miles around it
When, three years after, the same unscrupulous
leader, as Duke of Somerset, won that disastrous
battle at Pinkie-a field that made 360 women of
Edinburgh widows, and where the united shout
raised by the victors as they came storming over
Edrnondston Edge was long remembered-stanehouse
was again summoned to surrender; but
though menaced by 26,000 of the English, he
maintained his charge till the retreat of Somerset
Instead of reconciling the Scots to an alliance
with England-in those days a measure alike
unsafe and unpalatable-all this strengthened the ... ?married Henry Stuart Lord Methven, on finding that the former was about to seize her dower-lands, fled, with ...

Book 1  p. 43
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Liberton?s Wynd.] DOWIE?S TAVERN. 119
town mansion of the abbot, with a beautiful chapel
attached to it, and may serve to remind us how
little idea we can form of the beauty of the
Scottish capital before the Reformation, adorned
as it was with so many churches and conventual
buildings, the very sites of which are now unknown,
Over the doorway of an ancient stone land in Gosford?s
Close,which stood immediately east of the Old
Bank Close, there existed a curious sculptured
lintel containing a representation of the crucifixion,
and which may with every probability be regarded
as another relic of the abbot?s house that once
occupied its site.?
This lintel is still preserved, and the house
which it adorned belonged to Mungo Tennant, a
wealthy citizen, whose seal is appended to a reversion
of the half of the lands of Leny, in 1540. It
also bears his arms, with the then common legend
-Soli. Deo. Honor. et. GZona.
In the lower storcy of this house was a stronglyarched
cellar, in the floor of which was a concealed
trap-door, admitting to another lower down, hewn
out of the living rock. Tradition averred it was a
chamber for torture, but.it has more shrewdly been
supposed to have been connected with the smugglers,
to whom the North Loch afforded by boat such
facilities for evading the duties at the city gates,
and running in wines and brandies. This vault is
believed to be still remaining untouched beneath
the central roadway of the new bridge. On the
first floor of this mansion the fifth Earl of Loudon,
a gallant general officer, and his daughter, Lady
Flora (latterly countess in her own right) afterwards
Marchioness of Hastings, resided when in town.
Here, too, was the mansion of Hume Rigg of
Morton, who died in it in 1788. It is thus described
in a note to Kay?s works :-? The dining and
drawing-rooms were spacious ; indeed, more so
than those of any private modern house we have
seen. The lobbies were all variegated marble, and
a splendid mahogany staircase led to the upper
storey. There was a large green behind, with a
statue in the middle, and a summer-house at the
bottom; but so confined was the entry to this
elegant mansion that it was impossible to get even
a sedan chair near to the door.?? On the zoth
January, 1773, at four k.~., there was? a tempest,
says a print of the time, ? and a stack of chimneys
on an old house at the foot of Gosfords Close,
possessed by Hugh Mossman, writer, was blown
down, and breaking through the roof in that part
of the house where he and his spouse lay, they
both perished in the ruins. . . . . In the
storey below, Miss Mally Kigg, sister to Rigg of
Morton, also perished.?
So lately as 1773 the Ladies Catharine and
Anne Hay, daughters of John Marquis of Tweeddale,
and in that year their brother George, the
fifth Marquis, resided there too, in the thud floor
of the front ? land ? or tenement. ? Indeed,? says
Wilson, ?the whole neighbourhood was the favourite
resort of the most fashionable and distinguished
among the resident citizens, and a perfect
nest of advocates and lords of session.? In the
pear 1794 the hall and museum of the Society of
Antiquaries were at the bottom of this ancient
thoroughfare.
Next it was Liberton?s Wynd, the avenue of which
is still partially open, and which was removed to
make way for the new bridge and other buildings.
Like many others still extant, or demolished, this
alley, called a wynd as being broader than a
close, had the fronts of its stone mansions so added
to and encumbered by quaint projecting out-shot
Doric gables of timber, that they nearly met overhead,
excluding the narrow strip of sky, and, save
at noon, all trace of sunshine. Yet herein stood
Johnnie Dowie?s tavern, one of the most famous in
the annals of Convivialia, and a view of which, by
Geikie, is preserved by Hone in his Year Book.?
Johnnie Dowie was the sleekest and kindest of
landlords ; nothing could equal the benignity of
his smile when he brought ?ben? a bottle of his
famous old Edinburgh ale to a well-known and
friendly customer. The formality with which he
drew the cork, the air with which he filled the long,
slender glasses, and the regularity with which he
drank the healths of all present in the first, with
his dozrce civility at withdrawing, were as long remembered
by his many customers as his ?Nor?
Loch trouts and Welsh rabbits,? after he had gone
to his last home, in 1817, leaving a fortune to his
son, who was a major in the amy. With a laudable
attachment to the old costume he always wore
a cocked hat, buckles at the knees and shoes, as
well as a cross-handled cane, over which he
stooped in his gait. Here, in the space so small
and dark, that even cabmen would avoid it now,
there came, in the habit of the times, Robert Fergusson
the poet, David Herd the earliest collector
of Scottish songs, ? antiquarian Paton,? and others
forgotten now, but who were men of local note
in their own day as lords of session and leading
advocates. Here David Martin, a well-known
portrait painter, instituted a Club, which was
quaintly named after their host, the ?Dowie
College;? and there his far more celebrated
pupil Sir Henry Raeburn often accompanied
him in his earlier years; and, more than all,
it was the favourite resort of Robert Bums, ... Wynd.] DOWIE?S TAVERN. 119 town mansion of the abbot, with a beautiful chapel attached to it, and may ...

Book 1  p. 119
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Holyrocd.] HOWIESON OF BRAEHEAD. 63
space of one year, with great triumph and mem
ness.? He diligently continued the works begur
by his gallant father, and erected the north-wes
towers, which have survived more than one con
flagration, and on the most northern of which coulc
be traced, till about 1820, his name, IACOBVS RE)
SCOTORVM, in large gilt Roman letters.
In 1528 blood was again shed in Holyrooc
during a great review of Douglases and Hamilton:
held there prior to a march against the Englis?
?borders. A groom of the Earl of Lennox perceiv
ing among those present Sir James Hamilton o
Finnart, who slew that noble at Linlithgow, intent or
vengeance, tracked him into the palace ?by a dad
staircase which led to a narrow gallery,? and then
attacked him, sword in hand. Sir James en
deavoured to defend himself by the aid of hi:
. velvet mantle, but fell, pierced by six wounds, nonc
of which, however, were mortal. The gates wen
closed, and while a general mClCe was on the poin
of ensuing between the Douglases and Hamil
tons, the would-be assassin was discovered With hi:
bloody weapon, put to the torture, and then hi:
right hand was cut 04 on which ?he observed
with a sarcastic smile, that it was punished les:
than it deserved for having failed to revenge tht
murder of his beloved master.??
James V. was still in the palace in 1530, as we find
in the treasurer?s accounts for that year : ?? Item, tc
the Egiptianis that dansit before the king in Holy
rud House, 40s.? He was a monarch whose pure
benevolence of intention often rendered his roman.
tic freaks venial, if not respectable, since from his
anxiety to learn the wants and wishes of his humbler
subjects he was wont, like Il Boadocan4 or Haroun
Alrdschid, to traverse the vicinity of his palaces
in the plainest of disguises ; and two comic songs,
composed by himself, entitled ?We?ll gang nae
mair a-roving,? and ?The Gaberlunzie Man,? are
said to have been founded on his adventures while
masked as a beggar; and one of these, which
nearly cost him his life at Cramond, some five
miles frum Holyrood, is given in Scott?s ?? Tales of
a Grandfather.?
While visiting a pretty peasant girl in Cramond
village he was beset by four or five persons, against
whom he made a stand with his sword upon the
high and narrow bridge that spans the Almond,
in a wooded hollow. Here, when well-nigh beaten,
and covered with blood, he was succoured and
rescued by a peasant armed with a flail, who conducted
him into a barn, where he bathed his wounds;
and in the course of conversation James discovered
that the summit of his deliverer?s earthly wishes
was to be proprietor of the little farm of Braehead,
on which he was then a labourer. Aware that it was
Crown property, James said, ?? Come to Holyrood,
and inquire for the gudeman of Ballengeich,? referring
to a part of Stirling Castle which he was
wont to adopt as a cognomen.
The peasant came as appointed, and was met
by the king in his disguise, who conducted him
through the palace, and asked him if he wished
to see the king. John Howison-for such was his
name-expressed the joy it would give him, provided
he gave no offence. But how shall I know
him?? he added.
? Easily,? replied James, ?All others will be
bareheaded, the king alone will wear his bonnet.?
Scared by his surroundings and the uncovered
crowd in the great hall, John Howison looked
around him, and then said, naively, ?The king
must be either you or me, for all but us are bareheaded.?
James and his courtiers laughed ; but
he bestowed upon Howison the lands of Braehead,
?? on condition that he and his successors should
be ready to present an ewer and basin for the king
to wash his hands when His Majesty should come
to Holyrood or pass the bridge of Cramond.
Accordingly, in the year 1822, when George IV.
came to Scotland, a descendant of John Howison,
whose hmily still possess the estate, appeared at a
solemn festival, and offered His Majesty water from
a silver ewer, that he might perform the service by
which he held his land.?
Such pranks as these were ended by the king?s marriage
in I 53 7 to the Princess Magdalene, the beautiful
daughter of Francis I., with unwonted splendour in
the cathedral of Notre Dame, in presence of the
Parliament of Paris, of Francis, the Queens of
France and Navarre, the Dauphin, Duke of Orleans,
md all the leading peers of Scotland and o(
France. On the 27th of May the royal pair
landed at Leith, amid every display of welcome,
md remained a few days at Holyrood, tin the
mthusiastic citizens prepared to receive them in
state with a procession of magnificence.
Magdalene, over whose rare beauty consump-
:ion seemed to spread a veil more tender and
rlluring, was affectionate and loving in nature. On
anding, in the excess of her love for James,
;he knelt down, and, kissing the soil, prayed God
:o bless the land of her adoption-scotland, and
ts people.
The ? Burgh Records ? bear witness how anxious
he Provost and citizens were to do honour to the
)ride of ?? the good King James. All beggars were
varned off the streets : ?lane honest man of ilk
:lose or two,? were to see this order enforced ; the
vbbish near John Makgill?s house and ?the litster ... HOWIESON OF BRAEHEAD. 63 space of one year, with great triumph and mem ness.? He diligently continued ...

Book 3  p. 63
(Score 0.48)

Coweate.1 VERNOUR?S
from the two bridges named, it seems to cower in
its gorge, a narrow and dusky river of quaint and
black architecture, yet teeming with life, bustle,
and animation. Its length from where the Cowgate
Port stood to the foot of the Candlemaker
Row is about 800 yards.
. I t is difficult to imagine the time when it was
probably a narrow country way, bordered by hedgerows,
skirting the base of the slope whereon lay
the churchyard of St. Giles?s, ere houses began to
appear upon its lie, ,and it acquired its name,
which is now proved to have been originally the
Sou?gate, or South Street.
One of the earliest buildings immediately adjacent
to the Cowgate must have been the ancient chapel
of the Holyrood, which stood in the nether kirkyard
of St. Giles?s till the Reformation, when the
materials of it were used in the construction of the
New Tolbooth. Building here must have begun
early in the 15th century.
In 1428 John Vernour gave a land (i.e., a tenement)
near the town of Edinburgh, on the south
side thereof, in the street called Cowgate, to
Richard Lundy, a monk of Melrose,? for twenty
shillings yearly. He or his heirs were to have the
refusal of it if it were sold. (?Monastic Ann,?
Tevio tdale.)
In 1440 William Vernour, according to the
same authority, granted this tenement to Richard
Lundy, then Abbot of Melrose, without reserve, for
thirteen shillings and fourpence yearly; and in
1493, Patrick, Abbot of Holyrood, confirmed the
monks of Melrose in possession of their land called
the Holy Rood Acre between the common Vennel,
and another acre which they had beside the highway
near the Canongate, for six shillings and eightpence
yearly.
On the 31st May, 1498, James IV. granted to
Sir. John Ramsay of Balmain (previously Lord
Bothwell under James 111.) a tenement and
orchard in the Cowgate. This property is referred
to in a charter under the Great Seal, dated 19th
October, 1488, to Robert Colville, director of the
chancery, of lands in the Cowgate of Edinburgh,
once the property of Sir James Liddell, knight, ?et
postea johannis Ramsay, oZim nunntpafi Domini
BoifhveZe,? now in the king?s hands by the forfeiture
first of Sir James Liddell, and of tenements
of John Ramsay.
Many quaint timber-fronted houses existed in
the Cowgate, as elsewhere in the city. Such
mansions were in favour throughout Europe generally
in the 15th century, and Edinburgh was only
influenced by the then prevailing taste of which
so many fine examples still remain in Nuremberg
.
TENEMENT. 239
and Chester ; and in Edinburgh open piazzas and
galleries projecting from the actual ashlar or original
front of the house were long the fashion-the
former for the display of goods for sale, and the
latter for lounging or promenading in; and here
and there are still lingering in the Cowgate mansions,
past which James 111. and IV. may have
ridden, and whose occupants buckled on their mail
to fight on Flodden Hill and in Pinkey Cleugh.
Men of a rank superior to any of which modem
Edinburgh can boast had their dwellings in the
Cowgate, which rapidly became a fashionable and
aristocratic quarter, being deemed open and airy.
An old author who wrote in 1530, Alexander
Alesse, and who was born in the city in 1500, tells
us that ?the nobility and chief senators of the
city dwell in the Cowgate-via vaccarum in qud
hrabifanf pdfriXi et senafores urbis,? and that U the
palaces of the chief men of the nation are also
there ; that none of the houses are mean or vulgar,
but, on the contrary, all are magnificent-ubi nihJ
Aunt& aui rusticum, sed omnia magzzjfca P
Much of the street must have sprung into existence
before the wall of James 11. was demolished,
in which the High Street alone stood; and it was
chiefly for the protection of this highly-esteemed
suburb that the greater wall was erected after the
battle of Flodden.
A notarial instrument in 1509 cpncerning a
tenement belonging to Christina Lamb on the
south side near the Vennel (or wynd) from the Kirk
of Field, describes it as partly enclosed with pales
of wood fixed in the earth and having waste land
adjoining it.
In the division of the city into three quarters in
I 5 I 2, the 6rst from the east side of Forester?s Wynd,
on both sides of the High Street, and under the
wall to the Castle Hill, was to be held by Thomas
Wardlaw. The second quarter, from the Tolbooth
Stair, ?? quhak Walter Young dwellis in the north
part of the gaitt to the Lopley Stane,? to beunder
the said Walter; and the third quarter from the
latter stone to Forester?s Wynd ?in the sowth
pairt of the gaitt, with part of the Cowgate, to be
under George Dickson.?
In 1518, concerning the ?Dichting of the
Calsay,? it was ordained by the magistrates, that
all the inhabitants should clean the portion thereof
before their own houses and booths ?als weill in
the Kowgaitt venellis as on the Hie Gaitt,? and
that all tar barrels and wooden pipes be removed
from the streets under pain of escheat. In 1547
and 1548 strict orders were issued with reference
to the gwds at the city gates, and no man who was
skilled in any kind of gunnery was to quit the tom ... VERNOUR?S from the two bridges named, it seems to cower in its gorge, a narrow and dusky river of ...

Book 4  p. 239
(Score 0.48)

the N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil,
where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet
eastward of the tower there was found in the bank,
in 1820, a large coffin of thick fir containing three
skeletons, a male and two females, supposed to be
those of a man named Sinclair and his two sisters,
who were all drowned?in the loch in 1628 for a
horrible crime.
Eastward of this tower of the 15th century are the
remains of a long, low archway, walled with rubble,
but arched with well-hewn stones, popularly known
as ?the lion?s den,? and which has evidently formed
a portion of that secret escape or covered way
from the Castle (which no Scottish fortress was ever
without), the tradition concerning which is of general
and very ancient belief; and this idea has been still
further strengthened by the remains of a similar
subterranean passage being found below Brown?s
Close, on the Castle Hill. At the highest part of
the latter stood the ancient barrier gate of 1450,
separating the fortress from the city. This gate
was temporarily replaced on the occasion of the
visit of George IV, in 1822, and by an iron
chuaux de fdse-to isolate the 82nd Regiment and
garrison generally-during the prevalence of Asiatic
cholera, ten years subsequently.
There stood on the north side of the Castle
Hill an ancient church, some vestiges of which were
visible in Maitland?s time, in 1753, and which he
supposed to have been dedicated to St, Andrew the
patron of Scotland, and which he had seen referred
to in a deed of gift of twenty merks yearly, Scottish
money, to the Trinity altar therein, by Alexander
Curor, Vicar of Livingstone, 20th December, 1488.
In June, 1754, when some workmen were levelling
this portion of the Castle Hill, they discovered a
subterranean chamber, fourteen feet square,
wherein lay a crowned image of the Virgin, hewn
of very white stone, two brass altar candlesticks,
some trinkets, and a few ancient Scottish and French
coins. By several remains of burnt matter and two
large cannon balls being also found there, this
edifice was supposed to have been demolished
durbg some of the sieges undergone by the Castle
since the invention of artillery. Andin December,
1849, when the Castle Hill was being excavated
for the new reservoir, several finely-carved stones
were found in what was understood to be the
foundation of this chapel or of Christ?s Church,
which was commenced there in 1637, and had
actually proceeded so far that Gordon of Rothiemay
shows it in his map with a high-pointed spire,
but it was abandoned, and its materials used in
the erection of the present church at the Tron.
Under all this were found those pre-historic human
remains referred to in our first chapter. This was
the site of the ancient water-house. It was not
until ~ 6 2 1 that the citizens discovered the necessity
for a regular supply of water beyond that which
the public wells with their watef-carriers afforded.
It cannot be supposed that the stagnant fluid of the
north and south lochs could be fit for general use,
yet, in 1583 and 1598, it was proposed to supply
the city from the latter. Eleven years after the
date above mentioned, Peter Brusche, a German
engineer, contracted to supply the city with water
from the lands of Comiston, in a leaden pipe of three
inches? bore, for a gratuity of 650. By the year
1704 the increase of population rendered an additional
supply from Liberton and the Pkntland Hills
necessary. As years passed on the old water-house
proved quite inadequate to the wants of the city.
It was removed in 1849, and in its place now stands
the great reservoir, by which old and new Edinburgh
are alike supplied with water unexampled in
purity, and drawn chiefly from an artificial lake
in the Pentlands, nearly seven miles distant. On
the outside it is only one storey in height, with a
tower of 40 feet high; but within it has an area I 10
feet long, go broad, and 30 deep, containing two
millions of gallons ofwater, which can be distributed
through the entire city at the rate of 5,000 gallons
per minute,
Apart from the city, embosomed among treesand
though lower down than this reservoir, yet
perched high in air-upon the northern bank of the
Esplanade, stands the little octagonal villa of Allan
Ramsay, from the windows of which the poet would
enjoy an extensive view of all the fields, farms, and
tiny hamlets that lay beyond the loch below, with
the vast panorama beyond-the Firth of Forth,
with the hills of Fife and Stirling. ?The sober
and industrious life of this exception to the race
of poets having resulted in a small competency,
he built this oddly-shaped house in his latter days,
designing to enjoy in it the Horatian quiet he had
so often eulogised in his verse. The story goes:
says Chambers in his ?? Traditions,? ? that, showing
it soon after to the clever Patrick Lord Elibank,
with much fussy interest in its externals and accommodation,
he remarked that the vyags were already
at work on the subject-they likened it to a goosepie
(owing to the roundness of the shape). ? Indeed,
Allan,? said his lordship, ?now I see you in it I think
the wags are not far wrong.? ?
Ramsay, the author of the most perfect pastoral
poem in the whole scope of British literature, and
a song writer of great merit, was secretly a
Jacobite, though a regular attendant in St. Giles?s
Church. Opposed to the morose manners of his ... N ~ S , attracted by the dampness of the soil, where for ages the artificial loch lay. A few feet eastward of ...

Book 1  p. 82
(Score 0.47)

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