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350 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin
minute decorations of the latest species of the
Tudor age. It is impossible to designate the architecture
of this building by any given or familiar
term, for the variety and eccentricity of its parts
are not to be defined by any words of common
acceptation.?
Though generally spoken of as if it were the chapel
of the adjacent castle, this most costly edifice was
erected as a collegiate church, to be ministered to
by a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers.
Captain Slezer states that ? there goes a tradition
that, before the death of any of the family of
Roslin this chapel appears to be all on fire ; ? and it
was this brief line of that most prosaic writer which
suggested the noble ballad of Scott: The legend
is supposed to be of Norse origin, imported by the
Earls of Orkney to Roslin, as the tomb-fires of
the North are mentioned in most of the Sagas. The
chapel was desecrated by a mob in I 688, anQ though
partially repaired by General St. Clair about 1720,
for more than a century and a half it remained
windowless and mouldy. On Easter Tuesday, 1862,
it was repaired, and opened for service by the clergy
of the Scottish Episcopal communion.
In this building we have the common stock legend
of one of the finest pieces of workmanship beingcompletedbyanapprentice
duringtheabsence of the master,
who in rage and mortification puts him to death.
The famous Apprentice?s Pillar is called by Slezer
the ? Prince?s Pillar,? as the founder had the title
of Prince of Orkney, This pillar is the wreathed
one, so markedly distinct from all the others, and
was most probably the ?? Master?s Pillar ; ? but
among the grotesque heads, it was not difficult for
old Annie Wilson, the guide, who figures in the
Gentleman?s Magazi?zc for 1817, to find those of
the irate master, the terrified apprentice, and his
sorrowing mother.
It was from the MSS. of Father Hay, in the
Advocates? Library, that the striking legend of the
Sinclairs being buried in their armour was taken
by Sir Walter. Scott. He wrote at the commencement
of the eighteenth century, and was present at
the opening of the tomb, wherein lay Sir Wdliam
Sinclair, who, he says, was interred in 1650, on
the day the battle of Dunbar was fought ; and he
thus describes the body :-
? He was lying in his armour, with a red velvet
cap on his head, on a flat stone. Nothing was
spoiIed except a piece of the white furring that
uyent round the cap, and answered to the hinder
part of the head. All his predecessors were buried
in the same manner in their armour. Late Roslin,
my gud father, was the first that was buried in a
coffin, against the sentiments of King James VII.,
who was then in Scotland, and several other
persons well versed in antiquity, to whom my
mother would not hearken, thinking it beggarly to
be buried after that manner, The great expense
she was at in burying her husband occasioned the
sumptuary Acts which were made in the next Parliament.?
This refers to the Act ? restraining the
exorbitant expense of marriages, baptisms, and
burials,? passed in 1681 at Edinburgh.
In a vault near the north wall, there lie, under
a flag-stone, ten barons of Roslin, buried before
1690, according to the ? New Statistical Account.?
In the west wall of the north aisle is the tomb
of George, fourth Earl of Caithness, one of the
peers who sat on the trial of Bothwell, and who
died at an advanced age. It bears the following
inscription :-
? H I ~ JACET NOBILE AC POTIS DOMINUS GEORGIUS,
QUONDAM COMES CATHANENSIS, DOMINUS SINCLAR,
OBIIT EDINBURCI g DIE MENSIS SEPTEMBRIS, ANNO
DOMINI 1582.?
It is supposed that an authentic history of th;s
family-one of the most remarkable in the three
Lothians-might throw much light on the history
of masonry in Scotland. Among the MSS. in
Father Hay?s collection there is one which acknowledges
in remarkable terms the prerogatives
of the Roslm family in reference to the Maso&
craft.
?The deacons, masters, and freemen of the
masons and hammermen within the Kingdom of
Scotland ? assert ?? that for as mickle as from adage
to adage it has been observed amongst us and our
predecessors that the Lauds of Roslin have ever
bein patrons and protectors of us and our privileges,
like as our predecessors has obeyed, reverenced,
and acknowledged them as patrons and protectors,
whereof they had letters of protection and other
rights granted by his majesty?s most noble progenitors.?
The MS. then proceeds to record that
the documents referred to had perished with the
family muniments in some conflagration ; but that
they acknowledge the continuance of the Masonic
Patronage in the House of Sinclair. The MS. is
dated 1630, and signed thus :-? The Lodge of
Dundee - Robert Strachane, master - Andrew
Wast and DaI-id Whit, masters in Dundee; with
our hands att the pen, led be the Notar, undersubscrivand
at our commands, because we cannot
writ.?
At least twenty-two special masons? marks are
visible on the stones at Roslin.
The edifice has attached to it what is said to
have been an under chapel, although it is on the
JUSTICIARIUS HEREDITORIUS DIOCESIS CATHANENSIS QUI ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Roslin minute decorations of the latest species of the Tudor age. It is impossible to ...

Book 6  p. 350
(Score 0.48)

I20 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Pr?nees Street.
New Town, they are surprised at its being so badly
lighted and watched at night. The half of the
North Bridge next the Old Town is well lighted,
while the half next the New remains in total darkness.
London and Westminster are lighted all the
year through.? Among the improvements in the
same year, we read of two hackneycoach stands
being introduced by the magistrates-one at St.
Andrew?s Church and another at the Registei
House ; but sedans were then in constant use, and
did not finally disappear till about 1850.
?In Edinburgh there*is no trade,? wrote a
German traveller-said to be M. Voght, of Hamburg,
in 1795 ; ?but from this circumstance society
is a gainer in point both of intelligence and of
eloquence. . . . . It is but justice to a
place in which I have spent one of the most agreeable
winters of my life to declare, that nowhere
more completely than there have I found realised
my idea of good society, or met with a circle of men
better informed, more amicable, greater lovers of
truth, or of more unexceptionable integrity. During
six months I heard no invectives uttered, no catching
at wit practised, no malignant calumnies invented
or retailed; and I seldom left a company
without some addition to my knowledge or new
incitements to philanthropy. To name and to
describe the persons ? composing this society, and
to introduce them to your readers, is a pleasure
which I cannot deny myself.?
Among those whom he met in the Edinburgh of
that day M. Voght mentions Dugald Stewart,
(? the Bacon of Metaphysics ? ; Fraser Tytler, Lord
Woodhouselee ; Mackenzie, ? The Man of Feeling
; ? Drs. Black, Blair, Munro, and Coventry the
lecturer on agriculture ; Professor Playfair, Dr.
Gregory, and the amiable Sir William Forbes;
Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, and Colonel Dirom,
the historian of Tippoo Sahib, and Sir Alexander
Mackenzie ; adding :-?What makes the society
in Edinburgh particularly attractive is the crowd
of Scotsmen who have been long in the East
and West Indies, and have returned thither-old
officers who have served in the army and navy,
and all of whom in their youth have had the
advantage of academical instruction.?
Lady Sinclair, he tells us, ?(is one of the prettiest
women in all Scotland,? and that Creech, the bookseller,
was one of his ?most valuable acquaintances.?
Among others, he enumerates Sir James
Hall of Dunglass, Lords Eskgrove, Ancrum, and
Fincastle, Professor Rutherford the botanist, Lord
Monboddo, and many more, as those making up the
circle of a delightful and intellectual society in a
city, the population of which, including Leith, was
then only 81,865, of whom 7,206 were in the New
Town.
At the close of the century the first academy
for classical education was opened there by
William Laing, AM., father of Alexander Gordon
Laing, whose name is so mournfully connected
with African discovery. In that establishment Mr.
Ling laboured for thirty-two years, and was one of
the most p3pular teachers of his day.
In 1811 the population of the city and Leith
had increased to 102,987, and exclusive of the
latter it was 82,624. By 1881 the estimated
population was 290,637.
It was in the year 1805 that the Police Act for
the city first came? into operation, when John Tait,
Esq., was appointed Judge of the Court. Prior
to this the gu,udianship of the city had been entirely
in the hands of the old Town Guard, which
was then partially reduced, save a few who were
retained for limitea and special service. The
Commissioners of Police first substituted gas for
oil lamps; and in 1823 the papers announce that
these officials had ?fitted up 341 new gas pillars,
chiefly in the New Town; they are in progress
with other forty-two, and have given orders for
other 245 gas lights, chiefly in the Old Town.
They are to sell the superseded lamp-irons and
globes, from which they may realise about iC;600.?
By that time the last traces of ancient manners
had nearly departed. ?? The old claret-drinkers,?
says a writer in 1824, ?are brought to nothing, and
some of them are under the sod. The court
dresses, in which the nobility and gentry appeared
at the balls and first circles in Edinburgh, together
with their dress swords or rapiers, are all ?haz1c
6t-m~; for there has been introduced a half-dress
-and it ,is a half-dress: nay, some ladies make
theirs less than half; while the swords of the welldressed
men have been dropped for the $sty and
the dashing blades of the present day learn to mZZ,
to fib, and to floor, and to give a facer with their
? mawlies,? and other equally gentleman-like accomplishments.?
Elsewhere he says :-? To prove
the more tenacious adhesion of the Scotch to
French manners and old fashions, I can assert that
for one cocked hat which appeared in the streets of
London within the last forty years, a dozen passed
current in Add Reekie.?
The houses first numbered in Princes Street
were in the south portion, which caused the legal
contention in I 774, and the continuation of which
was so fortunately arrested by the Court of Session,
and there the numbers run from I to 9.
No. 2 was occupied in 1784 by Robertson, ?;a
ladies? hairdresser,? where, as per advertisement, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Pr?nees Street. New Town, they are surprised at its being so badly lighted and ...

Book 3  p. 120
(Score 0.48)

210 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
likely to have arisen. It happened by accident
that the Earl of Bothwell, coming out of the Earl
of Crawford?s lodging, was met by the Earl of Marr,
who was coming out of the Laird of Lochleven?s
lodging hard by; as it being about ten o?clock at
night, and so dark that they could not know one
another, he passed by, not knowing that the
Master of Glammis was there, but thinking it was
only the Earl of Marr. However, it was said that
some ambushment of men and hackbuttiers had
been duressed in the house by command of both
parties.?
Some brawl or tragedy had evidently been on
the tapis, for next day the king had the Earl of
Bothwell and the Master before him at Holyrood,
and committed the former to ward .in the Palace
of Linlithgow, and the latter in the Castle of Edinburgh,
? for having a band of hacquebuttiers in
ambush with treasonable intent.?
Passing to more peaceable times, on the same
side of the street, we come to one of the most
picturesque edifices in it, numbered as 155 (and
nearly opposite Niddry Street), in which Allan
Ramsay resided and began his earlier labours, ?at
the sign of the Mercury,? before he removed, in
1726, to the shop in the Luckenbooths, where we
saw him last.
It is an ancient timber-fronted land, the sinplarly
picturesque aspect of which was much marred
by some alterations in 1845, but herein worthy
Allan first prosecuted his joint labours of author,
editor, and bookseller. From this place he issued
his poems in single or half sheets, as they were
mitten ; but in whatever shape they always found
a ready sale, the citizens being wont to send their
children with a penny for ? Allan Ramsay?s last
piece.? Here it was, that in 1724 he published
the first volume of ?The Tea Table Miscellany,?
a collection of songs, Scottish and English,
dedicated
? To ilka lovely British lass,
Frae Ladies Charlotte, Anne and Jean,
Wha dances barefoot on the green.?
This publication ran through twelve editions, and
its early success induced him in the same year to
bring out ? The Evergreen,? a collection of Scottish
poems, ?? wrote by the Ingenious before 1600,?
professed to be selected from the Bannatyne MSS.
And here it was that .Ramsay- had some of his
hard struggles with the magistrates and clergy,
who deemed and denounced all light literature,
songs, and plays, as frivolity and open profanity, in
She sour fanatical spirit of the age.
Doon to ilk bonny singing Bess
Religion, in form, entered more into the daily
habits of the Scottish people down to 1730 than it
now does. Apart from regular attendance at
church, and daily family worship, each house had
some species of oratory, wherein, according to the
Domestic Annals, ? the head of the family could
at stated times retire for his private devotions,
which were usually of a protracted kind, and often
accompanied by great moanings and groanings,
expressive of an intense sense of human worthlessness
without the divine favour.? Twelve
o?clock was the hour for the cold Sunday dinner.
(? Nicety and love of rich feeding were understood
to be the hateful peculiarities of the English, and
unworthy of the people who had been so much
more favoured by God in the knowledge of matters
of higher concern.? Puritanic rigour seemed to
be destruction for literature, and when Addison,
Steele, and Pope, were conferring glory on that of
England, Scotland had scarcely a writer of note ;
and Allan Ramsay, in fear and trembling of legal
and clerical censure, lent out the plays of Congreve
and Farquhar from that quaint old edifice
numbered 155, High Street.
The town residence of the Ancrum family was
long one of the finest specimens of the timberfronted
tenements of the High Street. It stood on
the north side, at the head of Trunk?s Close,
behind the Fountain Well, and though it included
several rooms with finely-stuccoed ceilings, and a
large hall, beautifully decorated with rich pilasters
and oak panelling-and was undoubtedly worthy
of being preserved-it was demolished in 1873.
Here was the first residence of Scott of Kirkstyle,
who, in 1670, obtained a charter under the great
seal of the barony of Ancrum, and in the following
year was created Sir John Scott, Baronet, by
Charles 11.
In 1703 the house passed into the possession of
Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart., of Stobs, who resided here
with his eight sons, the youngest of whom, for his
glorious defence of Gibraltar, was created Lord
Heathfield in 1787.
On the same side of the street, Archibald
Constable, perhaps the most eminent publisher
that Scotland has produced, began business in a
small shop, in the year 1795, and from there, in
the November .of that year, he issued the first of
that series of sale catalogues of curious and rare
books, which he continued for a few years to
issue at intervals, and which attracted to his shop
all the bibliographers and lovers of literature in
Edinburgh.
Hither came, almost daily, such men as Richard
Heber, afterwards M.P. for the University of ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. likely to have arisen. It happened by accident that the Earl of ...

Book 2  p. 210
(Score 0.48)

3 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs.
p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in
1687.
The close of the family is thus recorded in the
Scottish Register for 1795 :-?September I. At
Cramond House, died Adam, Inglis, Esq., last
surviving son af Sir John Inglis of Cramond, Bart.
He was instructed in grammar and learning at the
High School -and University of Edinburgh, and at
the Warrington Academy in Lancashire ; studied
law at Edinburgh, and was ca!led to thc bar in
1782. In May, 1794~ was appointed lieutenant of
one of the Midlothian troops of cavalry, in which
he paid the most assiduous attention to the raising
and discipline of the men. On the 23rd August
he was attacked with fever, and expired on the
1st September, in the thirty-fourth year of his age,
unmarried.? Cramond House is now the seat of
the Craigie-Halkett family.
Some three miles south of Cramond lies the district
of Gogar, an ancient and suppressed parish, a
great portion of which is now included in that of
Corstorphine Gogar signifies ?? light,? according
to some ?etymological notices,? by Sir Janies
Foulis of Colinton, probably from some signal
given to an army, as there are, he adds, marks of
a battle having taken p1ac.e to the westward?; but
his idea is much more probably deduced from the
place named traditionally ? the Flashes,? the scene
of Leslie?s repulse of Cromwell in 1650. The
name is more probably Celtic The ? Ottadeni
and Gadeni,? says a statistical writer, ?? the British
descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed their
original land during the second century, and have
left memorials of their existence in the names
of the Forth, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith,
the Gore, the Gogar, and of Cramond, Cockpen,
Dreghorn,? etc.
The church of Gogar was much older than that
of Corstorphine, but was meant for a scanty population.
A small part of it still exists, and after
the Reformation was set apart as a burial-place for
the lords of the manor.
Gogar was bestowed by Robert Bruce on his
trusty comrade in many a well-fought field, Sir
Alexander Seton, one of the patriots who signed
that famous letter to the Pope in 1330, asserting
the independence of the Scots ;? and vowing that
so long as one hundred of them remained alive,
they would never submit to the King of England.
He was killed in battle at Kinghorn in 1332.
Soon after this establishment the Parish of Gogar
was acquired by the monks of Holyrood; but
before the reign of James V. it had been constituted
an independent rectory. In 1429 Sir John Forrester
conferred its tithes on his collegiate church at
Corstorphine, and made it one of the prebends
there.
In June, 1409, Walter Haliburton, of Dirleton, in
a charter dated from that place, disposed of the
lands and milne of Goga to his brother George.
Among the witnesses were the Earls of March and
Orkney, Robert of Lawder, and others. In 1516
the lands belonged to the Logans of Restalrig and
others, and during the reign of James VI. were in
possession of Sir Alexander Erskine, Master of Mar,
appointed Governor of Edinburgh Castle in I 5 78.
Though styled ?the Master,? he was in reality
the second son of John, twelfth Lord Erskine, and
is stated by Douglas to have been an ancestor of
the Earls of Kellie, and was Vice-ChamberIain of
Scotland. His son, Sir Thomas Erskine, also of
Gogar, was in 1606 created Viscount Fenton, and
thirteen years afterwards Earl of Kellie and Lord
Dirleton.
In 1599, after vain efforts had been made by its
few parishioners to raise sufficient funds for an idcumbent,
the parish of Gogar was stripped of its
independence ; and of the two villages of Nether
Gogar and Gogar Stone, which it formerly contained,
the latter has disappeared, and the popu-
Iation of the former numbered a few years ago only
twenty souls.
Grey Cooper, of Gogar, was made a baronet ot
Nova Scotia in 1638.
In 1646 the estate belonged to his son Sir John
Cooper, Bart., and in 1790 it was sold by Sir Grey
Cooper, M.P., to the Ramsays, afterwards of Barnton.
A Cooper of Gogar is said to have been one
Df the first persons who appeared in the High
Street of Edinburgh in a regular coach. They
were, as already stated, baronets of 1638, and after
them came the Myrtons of Gogar, baronets of 1701,
md now extinct.
On the muir of Gogar, in 1606, during the prevalence
of a plape, certain little ? lodges? were
built by James Lawriston, and two other persons
named respectively David and George Hamilton,
for the accommodation of the infected ; but these
edifices were violently destroyed by Thomas Marjoribanks,
a portioner of Ratho, on the plea that their
erection was an invasion of his lands, yet the Lords
of the Council ordered theni to be re-built?? where
they may have the best commodity of water,?? as
the said muir was common property.
The Edinburgh Cowant for April, 1723, records
that on the 30th of the preceding March, ?? Mrs.
Elizabeth Murray, lady toThomas Kincaid, younger,
of Gogar Mains,? was found dead on the road from
Edinburgh to that place, with all the appearance of
having been barbarously murdered. ... 18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [cogs. p. baronet of Nova Scotia by James VII., in 1687. The close of the family is ...

Book 6  p. 318
(Score 0.48)

98 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [WaniStolL
The cost to the Government of fencing in the
-ground, planting, &c., up to May, 1881, was
A6,000, while the purchase of Inverleith House
entailed a further expenditure ot &$,g50.
In the garden are several fine memorial trees,
planted by the late Prince Consort, the Prince of
Wales, the Duke of Edinburgh, and others.
Mr. James M?NabwaslongtheCuratoroftheRoyal
I Botanic Gardens, and till his death, in November,
1878, was intimately associated with its care and,
progress. The sou of William M?Nab, gardener, a
native of Ayrshire, he was born in April, 1814, and
five weeks later his father was appointed Curator
of the Edinburgh Botanic Garden in Leith Walk.
On leaving school James adopted the profession of
his father, and for twelve consecutive years worked
in the garden as apprentice, journeyman, and foreman,
from first to last con urnore, gaining a thorough
knowledge of botany and arboriculture, and, by a
variety of experiments, of the best modes of heating
greenhouses. In 1834 he visited the United States
and Canada, and the results of his observktions in
those countries appeared in the ?Edinburgh Philosophical
Journal? for 1835, and the ? Transactions ?
of the Botanical Society.
On the death of his father in December, 1848,
after thirty-eight years? superintendence of the
Botanic Garden, Mr. James M?Nab was appointed
to the Curatorship by the Regius Professor, Dr.
Balfour. At that time the garzen did not consist
of more than fourteen imperial acres, but after a time
two more acres were added, and these were planted
and laid out by Mr. M?Nab. A few years after the
experimental garden of ten acres was added to
the original ground, and planted with conifers and
other kinds of evergreens. The rockery was now
formed, with 5,442 compartments for the cultivation
of alpine and dwarf herbaceous plants. Mr.
M?Nab was a frequent contributor to horticultural
.and other periodicals, his writings including papers,
not only on botanical subjects, but on landscapegardening,
arboriculture, and vegetable climatology.
He was one of the original members of the Edinburgh
Botanical Society, founded in 1836, and in
1872 was elected President, a position rarely, if
ever, held by a practical gardener.
In 1873 he delivered his presidential address on
? The effects of climate during the last half century
on the tultivation of plants in the Botanic Garden
of Edinburgh, and elsewhere in Scotland,? a subject
which excited a great deal of discussion, the
writer having adduced facts to show that a change
had taken place in our climate within the period
given. Few men of his time possessed a more
thorough know!edge of his profession in all its
.
departments, and to his loving care and enthusiasm
it is owing that the Botanic Garden of Edinburgh is
now second to none.
On the east side of Inverleith Row lies the
ancient estate of Warriston, which has changed
proprietors quite as often as the patrimony of the
Touris and Rocheids.
Early in the sixteenth century Warriston bglonged
to a family named Somerville, whose residence
crowned the gentle eminence where now the modem
mansion stands. It must, like the house of h e r -
leith, have formed a conspicuous object from the
once open, and perhaps desolate, expanse of
Wardie Muir, that lay between it and the Firth
of Forth.
From Pitcairn?s ? Criminal Trials ? it would a p
pear that on the 10th of July, 1579, the house or
fortalice at Wamston was besieged by the Dalmahoys
of that ilk, the Rocheids and others, when
it was the dwelling-place of William Somerville.
They were ?pursued? for this outrage, but were
acquitted of it and of the charge of shooting pistolettes
and wounding Barbara Barrie.
By 1581 it had passed into the possession of
the Kincaids, and while theirs was the scene of a
dreadful tragedy. Before the Lords of the Council
in that year a complaint was lodged by John
Kincaid, James Bellenden of Pendreich, and James
Bellenden of Backspittal, ? all heritable feuars of
the lands of Waristown,? against Adani Bishop of
Orkney, as Commendator of Holyrood, who had
obtained an Act of the Secret Council to levy
certain taxes on their land which they deemed
unjust or exorbitant ; and similar complaints against
the same prelate were made by the feuar of abbey
land at St. Leonard?s. The complainers pleaded
that they were not justly indebted for any part
of the said tax, as none of them were freeholders,
vassals, or sub-vassals, but feuars only, subject to
their feu-duties, at two particular terms, in the year.
Before the Council again, in 1583, John Kincaid of
Warriston, and Robert Monypenny of Pilrig, a p
peared as caution for certain feuars in Broughton,
in reference to another monetary dispute with the
same prelate.
In I 591, Jean Ramsay, Lady Warriston, probably
of the same family, was forcibly abducted by
Robert Cairncross (known as hleikle Hob) and
three other men, in the month of March, for which
they were captured and tried. The year 1600
brings us to the horrible tragedy to which reference
was made above in passing.
John Kincaid of Warriston was married to a
very handsome young woman named Jean Livingston,
the daughter of a man of fortune and good ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [WaniStolL The cost to the Government of fencing in the -ground, planting, &c., up ...

Book 5  p. 98
(Score 0.48)

114 OLD APU?D NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine.
meaning, no doubt, the panelled box-beds so
common of old in Scotland.
There was a mineral well at Corstorphine, which
was in such repute during the middle of the last
century, that in 1749 a coach was established to
run between the village and the city, making eight
or nihe trips each week-day and four on Sunday.
? After this time the pretty village of Corstorphine,?
says a writer, ? situated at the base of the
hill, on one of the Glasgow roads, in the middle of
the meadow land extending from Coltbridge to
Redheughs, was a place of great gaiety during summer,
and balls and other amusements were then
common.??
The Sja, as it was called, was sulphureous, and
similar in taste to St. Bernard?s Well at Stockbridge,
and was enclosed at the expense of one
of the ladies of the Dick family of Prestonfield,
who had greatly benefited by the water. It stood
in the south-west portion of the old village, called
Janefield, within an enclosure, and opposite a few
thatched cottages. Some drainage operations in
the neighbourhood caused a complete disappearance
of the mineral water, and the last vestiges
of the well were removed in 1831. ? Near the
village,? says the ? New Statistical Account,? ?? in
a. close belonging to Sir William Dick, there long
stood a sycamore of great size and beauty, the
largest in Scotland.?
The Dick family, baronets of Braid (and of
Prestonfield) had considerable property in Corstorphine
and the neighbourhood, with part of Cramond
Muir. ? Sir James, afterwards Sir Alexander Dick,
for his part of the barony of Corstorphine,? appears
rated in the Valuation Roll of 1726 at A1,763 14s.
The witty and accomplished Lady Anne Dick of
Corstorphine (the grand-daughter of the first Earl
of Cromarty), who died in 1741, has already been
referred to in our first volume.
Regarding her family, the following interesting
aotice appears in the Scots Magazine for 1768.
?Edinburgh, March 14th. John Dick, Esq., His
Britannic Majesty?s Consul at Leghorn, was served
heir to Sir Tlrilliam Dick of Braid, Baronet. It
appeued that all the male descendants of Sir
TVilliam Dick had failed except his youngest son
Captain Lewis, who settled in Northumberland, and
who was the grandfather of John Dick, Esq., his
only male descendant now in life, Upon which a
respectable jury unanimously found his propinquity
proved, and declared him to be now Sir John
Dick, Baronet. It is remarkable that Sir William
Dick of Braid lost his great and opulent estates in
the service of the public cause and the liberties
of his country, in consideration of which, when it
was supposed there was no heir male of the family,
a new patent was granted to the second son of
the heir male, which is now in the person of Sir
Alexander Dick of Prestonfield, Baronet. The
Lord Provost and magistrates of this city, in consideration
of Sir John Dick?s services to his king
and country, and that he is the representative of
that illustrious citizen, who was himself Lord
Provost in 1638 and 1639, did Sir John the
honour of presenting him with ?the freedom of the
city of Edinburgh. After the service an elegant
dinner was given at Fortune?s, to a numerous company,
consisting of gentlemen of the jury, and
many persons of distinction, who all testified their
sincere joy at the revival of an ancient and
respectable family in the person of Sir John Dick,
Baronet.?
Corstorphipe has lost the reputation it long en.
joyed for a once-celebrated delicacy, known as its
Cream, which was brought to the city on the backs
of .horses. The mystery of its preparation is thus
preserved in the old ?Statistical Account? :--?They
put the milk, when fresh drawn, into a barrel or
wooden vessel, which is submitted to a certain
degree of heat, generally by immersion in warm
water, this accelerates the stage of fermentation.
Th9,serous is separated from the other parts of the
milk, the oleaginous and coagulable ; the serum is
drawn off by a hole in the lower part of the vessel ;
what remains is put into the plunge-chum, and,
after being agitated for some time, is sent to market
as Corstorphine Cream.?
High up on the southern slope of the hill stands
that humane appendage to the Royal Infirmary?
the convalescent house for patients who are cured,
but, as yet, too weak to work.
This excellent institution is a handsome twostoreyed
building in a kind of Tuscan style of
architecture, with a central block and four square
wings or towers each three storeys in height, with
pavilion roofs. The upper windows are all arched.
It has a complete staff, including a special surgeon,
chaplain, and matron.
The somewhat credulous author of the ? Night
Side of Nature,? records among other marvels, the
appearance of a mounted wraith upon Corstorphine
Hill.
Not very long ago, Mr. C-, a staid citizen
of Edinburgh, was riding gently up the hill, ? when
he observed an intimate friend of his own on
horseback also, immediately behind him, so he
slackened his pace to give him an opportunity of
joining company. Finding he did not come up so
quickly as he should, he looked round again, and
was astonished at no longer seeing him, since there ... OLD APU?D NEW EDINBURGH. [Corstorphine. meaning, no doubt, the panelled box-beds so common of old in ...

Book 5  p. 114
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?The West Chum.: MR. ROBER?T PONT. 13x1
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE CHURCH OF ST. CUTHBERT.
Iiirtory and Antiquity-Old Views of it Described-First Protestant Incumbeqts-The Old hlanse-Old Communion Cups-Pillaged by Cmmwdi
-Ruined by the Siege of 1689, and again in ~g+~-Deaths of Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn-Early Body-snatchem-Demolition of the Old
Church-Erection of the Ncw-Cax of Heart-bud-Old Tombs and Vaults-The Nisbets of Deau-The Old Poor How-Kirkbraehud
Road-Lothian Road-Dr. Candlish?s Church-Military Academy-New Caledonian Railway Station.
IN the hollow or vale at the end of which the North
Loch lay there stands one of the most hideous
churches in Edinbutgh, known as the West Kirk,
occupying the exact site of the Culdee Church of
St. Cuthbert, the parish of which was the largest
in Midlothian, and nearly encircled the whole of
the city without the walls. Its age was greater than
that of any record in Scotland. It was supposed
to have been built in the eighth century, and was
dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the Bishop of Durham,
who died on the 20th of March, 687.
In Gordon of Rothiemay?s bird?s-eye view it
appears a long, narrow building, with one transept
or aisle, on the south, a high square tower of three
storeys at the south-west corner, and a belfry.
The burying-ground is square, with rows of trees
to the westward. On the south of the buryingground
is a long row of two-storeyed houses, with a
gate leading to the present road west of the Castle
rock, and another on the north, leading to the
pathway which yet exists up the slope to Princes
Street, from which point it long was known as the
Kirk Loan to Stockbridge.
A view taken in 1772 represents it as a curious
assorlment of four barn-like masses of building,
having a square spire of five storeys in height in
the centre, and the western end an open ruinthe
western kirk-with a bell hung 011 a wooden
frame. Northward lies the hare open expznse, or
ridge, whereon the first street of the new town was
built.
After the Reformation the first incumbent settled
here would seem to have been a pious tailor, named
William Harlow, who was born in the city about
1500, but fled to England, where he obtained
deacon?s orders and became a preacher during the
reign of Edward VI. On the death of the, latter,
and accession of Mary, he was compelled to seek
refuge in Scotland, and in 1556 he began ?pub
,licly to exhort in Edinburgh,? for which he was
excommunicated by the Catholic authorities, whose
days were numbered now; and four years after,
when installed at St. Cuthbert?s, ? Mr. Harlow attended
the meeting of the first General Assembly,
held in Edinburgh on the 20th of December, 1560.
He died in 1578, but four years before that event
Mr. Robert Pont, afterwards ah eminent judge and
miscellaneous writer, was ordained to the ministry
of St. Cuthbert?s in his thirtieth year, at the time
he was, with others, appointed by the Assembly
to revise all books that were printed and published.
About the saiiie period he drew up the Calendar,
and framed the rule to understaqd it, for Arbuthnot
and Bassandyne?s famous edition of the Bible. In .
1571 he had been a Lord of Session and Provost
of the Trinity College.
On Mr. Pont being transferred in 1582, Mr.
Nicol Dalgleish came in his place ; but the former,
being unable to procure a stipend, returned to his
old charge, conjointly with his successor. IVhen
James VI. insidiously began his attempts to introduce
Episcopacy, Mr. Pont, a zealous defender of
Presbyterianism, with two other ministers, actually
repaired to the Parliament House, with the design
of protesting for the rights of the Church in the face
of the Estates; but finding the doors shut against
them, they repaired to the City Cross, and when
the obnoxious ?Black Acts ? were proclaimed, pub.
licly denounced them, and then fled to England,
followed by most of the clergy in Edinburgh.
Meanwhile Nicol Dalgleish, for merely praying
for them, was tried for his life, and acquitted, but
he was indicted anew for corresponding with the
rebels, because he had read a letter which one of
the banished ministers had sent to his wife. For
this fault sentence of death was passed upon him ;
but though it was not executed, by a refinement of
cruelty the scaffold on which he expected to die was
kept standing for several weeks before the windows
of his prison.
While Mr. Pont remained a fugitive, William
Aird, a stonemason, ? an extraordinary witness,
stirred cp by God,? says Calderwood, ?Land
mamed, learned first of his wife to speak English,?
was appointed, in the winter of 1584, colleague to
Mr. Dalgleish, who, on the return of Mr. Pont in
1585, ? was nominated to the principality of Aberdeen.?
Aware
of the igqorance of most of their parishioners concerning
the doctrines of the Protestant faith, and
that many had no faith- whatever, they offered to
devote the forenoon of every Thursday to public
tzaching, and to this end a meeting was held on
Pont?s next colleague was Mr. Aird. ... West Chum.: MR. ROBER?T PONT. 13x1 CHAPTER XVIII. THE CHURCH OF ST. CUTHBERT. Iiirtory and Antiquity-Old ...

Book 3  p. 131
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THE PRECEPTORY OF ST. ANTHONY. 215 Leith]
not making any deliberate assault ; but a pistol
shot was heard, and in a few minutes the Sieur de
la Roche lay dead, with a sword thrust in his body,
while Isaac had a finger nearly hewn OK
The guard now came on the scene, and Mowat
was found under an outer stair, with a bent sword
in his hand, bloody from point to hilt, his hand
wounded, and the sleeves of his coat stained with
blood. On seeing the dead body, he viewed it
without emotion, and merely remarked that he
wondered who had slain him.
The Master, Mowat, and James Sinclair the writer,
were all tried for the murder of Elias Poiret before
the Court of Justiciary, but the jury brought in a
verdict of not proven. The whole affair might
have been easily explained, but for heat of temper,
intemperance, and the ready resort to arms so usual
in those days. The three Frenchmen concerned in
it were Protestant refugees who were serving as
privates in the Scottish Life Guards. The Mastet
of Tarbet became Earl of Cromarty in 1714 and
survived the death of Poiret forty years. Two of
his sons, who were officers in the Scots-Dutch
Brigade, perished at sea, and his eldest, the third
and last Earl of Cromarty, was nearly brought to
Tower Hill in 1746 for his loyalty to the House of
Stuart.
No. 141 Kirkgate was long the place of business
of Mr. Alexander Watson, who is chiefly remarkable
as being the nephew and close correspondent
of a very remarkable man, who frequently resided
with him-Robert Watson, who was made Principal
of the Scots College at Paris by the Emperor
Napoleon I., an office which he held for six years.
It was to his nephew at Leith, after his escape to
Rome (having been tried at the Old Bailey as
President of a Corresponding Society), he confided
his discovery of a large mass of correspondence
known as ? The Stuart Papers,? which he
purchased (as stated in the Courunt for 1819.)
In one of his letters, dated London, 6th April,
1818, he states that they consist ofhalf a million of
pieces, and are valued at ~300,000. ?? The Pope,
however, took military possession of them, under
the protest that they were of too much importance
to belong to a private individual. I protested
against the arbitrary proceedings of his Holiness.
The Prince Regent sent two ships of war to Civita
Vecchia to bring them to London, and they are
now in Carlton House.?
To his nephew in the Kirkgate he subsequently
wrote that a Royal Commissiolr under the Great
Seal (including Sir James Mackintosh) was a p
pointed to examine these valuable papers ; and in
1824 he wrote that amongst other things of some
value which have fallen into my possession, are the
carriage and tent-bed of Bonaparte, taken at the
battle of Waterloo. Further events will decide
to what purposes I may apply it (the carriage),
though it is probable I shall keep it for my own
use.?
This singular person committed suicide in 1838,
by strangling himself in a London tavern, in the
ninety-second year of his age--?a case of suicide,?
it was said, ?unparalleled in the annals of sorrow.?
On the east side of the Kirkgate, to take the
edifices in succession there, there was founded by
Robert Logan of Restalrig, in 1435, a preceptory
for the canons of St. Anthony, the only establkhment
of the kind in Scotland.
Arnot, in his history, unthinkingly mentions ?? the
monastery of Knights Templars of St. Anthony?
at Leith. These canons, says Chalmers, ? seem to
have been an order of religious knights, not
Templars. The only document in which they are
called Templars is a charter of James VI. in 1614,
giving away their establishment and revenues; and
this mistake of an ignorant clerk is wildly repeated
by Arnot.?
Their church, burying-ground, and gardens were
in St. Anthony?s Wynd, an alley off the Kirkgate ;
and the first community was brought from St
Anthony of Vienne, the seat of the order in France
They were formed in honour of St. Anthony, the
patriarch of monks, who was born at Coma, a
village of Heraclea on the borders of Arcadia, in
A.D.?z~I, and whose sister was placed in the first
convent that is recorded in history. A hermit by
habit, he dwelt long in the ruins of an old castle
that overlooked the Nile; and after his death (said
to have been in 356) his body was deposited in the
church of La Motte St. Didier, at Vienne, when,
according to old traditions, those labouring under
the pest known as St. ,4nthony?s Fire-a species of
erysipelas-were miraculously cured by praying at
his shrine.
Gaston, a noble of Vienne, and his son Gironde,
filled with awe, we are told, by these wonderful
cures, devoted their lives and estates to found a
hospital for those who laboured under this disease,
and seven others joined them in their attendance
on the sick; and on these Hospitaller Brethren
Boniface VIII. bestowed the Benedictine Priory
of Vienne, giving them the rules of St. Austin, and
declaring the Abbot General of this new orderthe
Canons Regular of St, Anthony. The superiors
of the subordinate preceptones were called commanders,
says Alban Butler, ? and their houses are
called commandenes, as when they were Hospitallers?
. ... PRECEPTORY OF ST. ANTHONY. 215 Leith] not making any deliberate assault ; but a pistol shot was heard, and in ...

Book 6  p. 215
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Leith] SH EKIFF BRAE. 247
Leith by the rebels of Mary Queen of Scots, the
Earl of Lennox opened his council in the chambers
of the old tenement referred to, on the Coal Hill,
and it is, says Robertson, decorated with a rosethe
emblem of his connectian with Henry VIII. of
England-and the thistle for Scotland. Then
followed that war to which Morton?s ferocity imparted
a character so savage that ere long quarter
was neither given nor taken. And amidst it, in
connection with some private feud, some of the
followers of Sir William Kirkaldy, although they
had been ordered merely to use their batons, slew
Henry Setoun on the Shore of Leith, while his feet
were tripped up by an anchor. In escaping to
Edinburgh, one of them was taken and lodged in
the Tolbooth there ; but Kirkaldy came down from
the Castle with a party of his garrison, beat in the
doors, and rescued him, after which he seized ?? the
victualls brought into Leith from the merchants,
and (did} provide all necessarie furniture to endure
a long siege, till supplie was sent from forrane
nations.? (Calderwood.)
On the death of Lennox, John, Earl of Mar, was
made Regent, and fixed his head-quarters in the
same old tenement at the Coal Hill, Morton being
again chief lieutenant.
From the presence of these peers here, it is
probable that the adjacent gloomy, and now filthy,
court, so grotesquely called Parliament Square, obtained
its name, which seems to have been formerly
the Peat Neuk. The old Council House has been
doomed to perish by the new improvement scheme.
In December, 1797, it was ordered by the Lord
Provost, Magistrates, and Council of Edinburgh,
through the deputy shore-master at Leith, that every
vessel coming into the port with coals for public
sale, was to have a berth immediately on her arrival
off the Coal Hill, and that all other vessels were to
unmoor for that purpose, while no shore duties
were to be charged for coal vessels. (HeyaZd and
ChyonicZe, No. 1,215.)
The adjacent Peat Neuk, for years during the
last century and the beginning of the present,
afforded a shelter to those reckless and abandoned
characters who abound in every seaport ; while in
that portion of the town between the Coal Hill and
the foot of the Tolbooth Wynd were a number of
ancient and ruinous houses, the abode of wandering
outcasts, from whom no rent was ever derived
or expected. It was further alleged, in the early
part of the nineteenth century, to be the favourite
haunt of disembodied spirits, whose crimes or
sufferings in life compelled them to wander ; so,
every way, the Coal Hill seems to have been an
unpleasant, as it is still an unsavoury, locality.
From thence, another quarter known as the
Sheriff, or Shirra Brae, extends in a south-westerly
direction, still abounding in ancient houses. Here,
facing the Coal Hill, there stood, till 1840, a very
fine old edifice, described as having been the residence
of a Logan of Restalrig. The dormer
windows, which rose high above the eaves, were
elaborately sculptured with many dates and quaint
devices. Some of these have been preserved in
the north wall of the manse of St. Thomas?s Church.
One of them displays a shield charged with a heart,
surmounted by a fleur-de-lis, with the initials 1.L
and the date 1636 ; another has the initials I.L.,
M.C., with the date 24 Dec., 1636; a third has
the initials M.C., with a shield; while a fourth
gablet has the initials D.D., M.C., and the comparatively
recent date I 734
The supposed grandsoq of the luckless Logan
of the Gowrie conspiracy married Isabel Fowler,
daughter of Ludovic Fowler of Burncastle (says
Robertson), the famous ? Tibbie Fowler ? of
Scottish song, and here she is said to have resided ;
but her husband has been otherwise said to have
been a collateral of the ancient house of Restalrig,
as it is recorded, under date 12th June, 1572-
Majestro Joanne Logan de Shireff Braye,? who
poitpones the case of Christian Gudsonne, wife of
Andrew Burne in Leith, ?dilatit of the mutilation
of Willkm Burne, burgess of Edinburgh, of his
foremost finger be byting thereof.?
In the chartulary, says Robertson, we have also
John Logane of the Coatfield (Kirkgate), and George
Logane of Bonnington Mills is repeatedly alluded
to; ?? and we believe,? he adds, that these branches
?existed as early as the charter of King David.?
The old house at Bmnington still shows a curious
doorway, surmounted by a carefully sculptured
tablet bearing a shield, with a chevron and three
fleurs-de-lis; crest, a ship with sails furled. The
motto and date are obliterated.
. Another writer supposes that if the old house on
the Sheriff Brae was really the residence of George
Logan, it may have been acquired by marriage,
? seeing that the forfeiture of the family possessions
occurred so shortly before ; and this in itself affords
some colour to the tradition that he was the successhl
wooer of Tibbie Fowler.?
In support of this, the historian of Leith says :-
?f We think it not improbable that it was Tibbie?s
tocher that enabled Logan, who was ruined by the
attainder of 1609, to build the elegant mansion on
the Sheriff Brae. The marriage contract between
Logan and Isabella Fowler (supposed to be the
Tibbie of the song) is now in possession of a
gentleman in Leith.? ... SH EKIFF BRAE. 247 Leith by the rebels of Mary Queen of Scots, the Earl of Lennox opened his council in ...

Book 6  p. 247
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Koslin.] THE THREE BATTLES ON ONE DAY. 351
hillside, and not beneath, but is attached to its
eastern end, the means of communication between
the two being by a steep descent of steps. Its use
has sorely puzzled antiquaries, though it forms a
handsome little chapel, with ribbed arches and roof
of stone. Under its eastern window is an altar, and
there is a piscina and anibry for the sacramental
plate, together with a comfortable fireplace and a
rob+ of closets.
?? Its domestic appurtenances,? says a writer,
clearly- show. it. to have been the <house of: the
priestvrcustodier of the chapel, and the ecclesiastical?types
first named were for his private nieditation
; and thus the puzzle ceases.?
Near the,chapel is St, Mathew?s Well. The
parish of Roslin possesses many relics and traditions
of the famous three battles which were fought
there in one day-the 24th of February, 1302 :-
? Three triumphs in a day,
Three hosts subdued in one,
Beneath one common sun !?
Three armies scattered like the spray
On the 26th of January, 1302, the cruel and
treacherous Edward I. of England concluded a
treaty of truce-not peace-with Scotland, while,
on the other hand, he prepared to renew the war
against her. To this end he marched in an army
of 2o,ooo--Some say 30,ooo-men, chiefly cavalry,
under Sir John de Segrave, with orders?less to
fight than to waste and devastate the already wasted
country.
To obtain ptovisions with more ease, Segrave
marched his force in three columns, each a mile or
two apart, and the 24th of February saw them on
the north bank of the Esk, at three places, still
indicated by crossed swords on the county map ;
the first at Roslin ; the second . at Loanhead, on
high ground, still named, from the battle, ? Killrig,?
north of the village ; and the third at Park Bum,
near Gilmerton Grange.
Meanwhile, Sir John Comyn, Guardian of the
Kingdom, and Sir Simon Fraser of Oliver Castle
(the friend and comrade of Wallace), Heritable
Sheriff of Tweeddale, after mustering a force of
only 8,000 men-but men carefully selected and
well armed-marched from Biggar in the night,
and in the dull grey light of the February morning,
in the wooded glen near Roslin Castle, came
suddenly on the first column, under Segrave.
Animated by a just thirst for vengeance, the
Scots made a furious attack, and Segrave was
rapidly routed, wounded, and taken prisoner, together
with his brother, his son, sixteen knights,
and thirty esquires, called sergeants by the rhyming
English chronicler Langtoft.
.
The contest was barely over when the second
column, alarmed by the fugitives, advanced from its
camp at Loanhead, ?? and weary though the Scots
were with their forced night march, flushed with
their first success, and full of the most rancorous
hate of their invaders, they rushed to the charge,
and though the conflict was fiercer, were victorious.
A vast quantity of pillage fell into their hands,
together with Sir Ralph the Cofferer, a paymaster
of the English army.?
The second victory had barely been achieved,
when the third division, under Sir Robert Neville,
with all its arms and armour glittering in the
morning sun, came in sight, advancing from the
neighbourhood of Gilmerton, at a time when
many of the Scots had laid aside a portion of their
arms and helmets, and were preparing some to eat,
and others to sleep.
Frase; and Comyn at first thought of retiring,
but that was impracticable, as Neville was so close
upon, them. They flew from rank to rank, says
Tytler, ?and having equipped the camp followers
in the arms of their slain enemies, they made a
furious charge on the English, and routed them
with great slaughter.?
Before the second and third encounters took
place, old historians state that the Scots had recourse
to the cruel practice of slaying their prisoners,
which was likely enough in keeping with the spirit
with which the wanton English war was conducted
in those days. Sir Ralph the Cofferer begged Fraser
to spare his life, offering a large ransom for it.
? Your coat of mail is no priestly habit,? replied
Sir Simon. ? Where is thine alb-where thy hood ?
Often have you robbed us all and done us grievous
wrong, and now is our time to sum up the account,
and exact strict payment.??
With these words he hewed off the gauntleted
hands of the degraded priest, and then by one
stroke severed his head from his body.
Old English writers always attribute the glory of
the day to Wallace ; but he was not present. The
pursuit lasted sixteen miles, even as far as Biggar,
and 12,000 of the enemy perished, says Sir James
Balfour. English historians have attempted to
conceal the triple defeat of their countrymen on
this occasion. They state that Sir Robert Neville?s
division stayed behind to hear mass, and repelled the
third Scottish attack, adding that none who heard
mass that morning were slain. But, unfortunately
for this statement, Neville himself was among the
dead ; and Langtoft, in his very minute account of
the battle, admits that the English were utterly
routed.
Many places in the vicinity still bear names con-
. ... THE THREE BATTLES ON ONE DAY. 351 hillside, and not beneath, but is attached to its eastern end, the ...

Book 6  p. 351
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I18 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.
So difficult was it to induce people to build in a
spot so sequestered and far apart from the mass of
the ancient city, that a premium of Azo was
publicly offered by the magistrates to him who
should raise the first house; but great delays
ensued. The magistrates complimented Mr. James
Craig on his plan for the New Town, which was
selected from several. He received a gold medal
and the freedom of the city in a silver box; and
by the end of July, 1767, notice was given that
? the plan was to lie open at the Council Chamber
for a month from the 3rd of August, for the inspection
o?f such as inclined to become feuars, where
also were to be seen the terms on which feus
would be granted.?
At last a Mr. John Young took courage, and
gained the premium by erecting a mansion in
Rose Court, George Street-the j r s f edifice of
New Edinburgh; and the foundation of it was
laid by James Craig, the architect, in person,
on the 26th of October, 1767. (Chambers?s
Traditions,? p. 18.)
An exemption from all burghal taxes was also
granted to Mr. John Neale, a silk mercer, for an
elegant mansion built by him, the first in the line 01
Princes Street (latterly occupied as the Crown
Hotel), and wherein his son-in-law, Archibald
Constable, afterwards resided. ? These now appea
whimsical circumstances,? says Robert Chambers :
?so it does that a Mr. Shadrach Moyes, on
ordering a house to be built for himself in Princes
Street, in 1769, held the builder bound to run
another farther along, to shield him from the west
wind. Other quaint particulars are remembered,
as for instance, Mr. Wight, an eminent lawyer, who
planted himself in St. Andrew Square, finding that
he was in danger of having his view of St. Giles?s
clock shut up by the advancing line of Princes
Street, built the intervening house himself, that he
might have it in his power to keep the roof low,
for the sake of the view in question; important to
him, he said, as enabling him to regulate his
movements in the morning, when it was necessary
that he should be punctual in his attendance at
the Parliament House.?
By I 790 the New Town had extended westward
to Castle Street, and by 1800 the necessity for a
second plan farther to the north was felt, and soon
acted upon, and great changes rapidly came over
the customs, manners, and habits of the people.
With the enlarged mansions of the new city, they
were compelled to live more expensively, and
more for show. A family that had long moved in
genteel or aristocratic society in Blackfriars Wynd,
or Lady Stair?s Close, maintaining a round of quiet
[New Town.
tea-drinkings with their neighbouis up the adjoining
turnpike stair, and who might converse with lords,
ladies, and landed gentry, by merely opening their
respective windows, found all this homely kindness
changed when they emigrated beyond the North
Loch. There heavy dinners took the place of
tea-parties, and routs superseded the festive suppers
of the closes and wynds, and those who felt themselves
great folk when dwelling therein, appeared
small enough in George Street or Charlotte
Square.
The New Town kept pacewith the growing pros.
perity of Scotland, and the Old, if unchanged in
aspect, changed thoroughly as respects the character
of its population. Nobles and gentlemen, men of
nearly all professions, deserted one by one, and a
flood of the lower, the humbler, and the plebeian
classes took their places in close and wynd ; and
many a gentleman in middle life, living then perhaps
in Princes Street, looked back with wonder and
amusement to the squalid common stair in which
he and his forefathers had been born, and where
he had spent the earliest years of his life.
Originally the houses of Craig?s new city were
all of one plain and intensely monotonous plan and
elevation-three storeys in height, with a sunk
area in front, enclosed by iron railings, with link
extinguishers ; and they only differed by the stone
being more. finely polished, as the streets crept
westward. But during a number of years prior to
1840, the dull uniformity of the streets over the
western half of the town had disappeared.
Most of the edifices, all constructed as elegant
and commodious dwelling-houses, are now enlarged,
re-built, or turned into large hotels, shops,
club-houses, ,insurance-offices, warehouses, and new
banks, and scarcely an original house remains
unchanged in Princes Street or George Street.
And this brings us now to the Edinburgh of
modem intellect, power, and wealth. ?At no
period of her history did Edinburgh better deserve
her complimentary title of the modem Athens
than the last ten years of the eighteenth
and the first ten years of the nineteenth century,?
says an English writer. ?She was then, not only
nominally, but actually, the capital of Scotland, the
city in which was collected all the intellectual life
and vigour of the country. London then occupied
a position of much less importance in relation to
the distant parts of the empire than is now the
case. Many causes have contributed to bring
about the change, of which the most prominent are
the increased facilities for locomotion which have
been introduced . . . . , . various causes which.
contributed to increase the importance of pro ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. So difficult was it to induce people to build in a spot so sequestered and far apart ...

Book 3  p. 118
(Score 0.48)

946 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
The Old and New Ship are good examples of
what these old taverns were, as they still exhibit
without change, their great staircases and walls of
enormous thickness, large but cosy rooms, panelled
with moulded wainscot, and quaint stone fire-places,
that, could they speak, might tell many a tale of
perils in the Baltic and on the shores of Holland,
France, and Denmark, and of the days when Leith
ships often sailed to Tangiers, and of many a deep
carouse, when nearly all foreign wines came almost
without duty to the port of Leith.
In 1700 the price of 400 oysters at Leith was
only 6s. 8d. Scots, as appears from the Abbey
House-bookof the Dukeof Queensberry, when High
Commissioner at Holyrood, quoted in the ? Scottish
Register,? Vol. I. ; and chocolate seems to have
been then known in Scotland, but, as it is only
mentioned once or twice, it must have been
extremely rare; while tea or coffee are not mentioned
at all, and what was used by the opulent
Scots of that period would appear from the morning
meal provided on different days, thus :-
?One syde of lamb, and two salmon grilses ;
One quarter of mutton, and two salmon grilses ;
One syde of lamb, four pidgeons ;
One quarter mutton, five chickens ;
One quarter mutton, two rabbits.?
The modem markets of Leith occupied the
sites of the old custom-house and excise office
near the new gaol in the Tolbooth Wynd, were
commodious and creditable in appearance, covered
a space 140 feet by 120, and had their areas
surrounded with neatly constructed stalls. They
were long, but vainly, demanded by the inhabitants
from the jealous Corporation 6f Edinburgh,
who had full power to promote or forbid
their erection.
In 1818 they were eventually reared by the impelling
influence of a voluntary subscription, and
by means of a compromise which subjected them
?to feu duties to Edinburgh of A219 yearly; but
?they do not now exist, having beeh partly built
I., The?Coal Hill adjoins the Shore on the south, and
? here it is that, in a squalid and degraded quarter,
?but immediately facing the river, we find one of
.the most remarkable features in Leith-a building
. to which allusion has not unfrequehtly been made
in our historical survey of Leith-the old Council
Chamber wherein the Earls of Lennox, Mar, and
Morton, plotted, in succession, their treasons
against the Crown.
Five storeys in height, and all built of polished
ashlar, with two handsome string mouldings, it presents
on its western front two gables, and a double
over by other erections.
window projected on three large corbels j on the
north it has dormer windows, only one of which
retains its half-circular gablet j and a massive outside
chimney-stack.
This is believed to have been the building which
Maitland describes as having been erected by Mary
of Lorraine as the meeting-place of her privy
council. It is a spacious and stately fabric, presenting
still numerous evidences of ancient magnificence
in its internal decorations ; and only a
few pears ago some very fine samples of old oak
carving were removed from it, and even a beautifully
decorated chair remained, till recently, an
heir-loom, bequeathed by its patrician occupants
to the humble tenants of the degraded mansion.
Campbell, in his ? History of Leith,? says that it
? still (in 1827) exhibits many traces of splendours
nothing short of regal.. Amongst these are some
old oaken chairs, on which are carved, though
clumsily, crowns, sceptres, and other royal insignia.
The whole building, in short, both from its superior
external appearance and the elegance of its interior
decorations, is altogether remarkable. Every
apartment is carefully, and, according to the taste
of the times, elaborately adorned with ornamental
workmanship of various kinds on the ceiling, walls,
cornices, and above the fire-places. In one chamber,
the ceiling, which is of a pentagonal form, and composed
of wood, is covered with the representation
of birds, beasts, fishes, &c These, however, are
now so much obscured by smoke and dirt as to be
traced with difficulty. . . . . Not the least remarkable
part of this structure is the unusually broad
and commodious flight of stairs by which its different
flafs are entered from the street, and which,
differing in this respect so much from most other
houses, sufficiently establishes the fact of its having
been once a mansion of no ordinary character.?
Of all the decoration which Campbell refers to
but slender traces now remain. A writer on Leith
and its antiquities has striven to make-this place
a residence of Mary, the Queen Regent ; but Wilson
expresses himself as baffled in all his attempts to
obtain any proof that it ever wag so.
?? Mary,? says Maitland, ?( having begun to build
in the town of Leith, was followed therein by divers
of the nobility, bishops, and other persons of distinction
of her party, several of whose houses are
still remaining, as may be seen in sundry places by
their spacious rooms, lofty ceilings, large staircases,
and private oratories, or chapels for the celebration
of mass.?
But the occupation of Leith by these dignitaries
was of a very temporary and strictly military nature.
In 1571, when head-quarters were established in ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith The Old and New Ship are good examples of what these old taverns were, as they ...

Book 6  p. 246
(Score 0.48)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 321
daughters and one son survived. One of his sons, the late Robert Jameson,
Esq., advocate, was a distinguished member of the Scottish bar ;’ and whose
premature demise alone prevented his being raised to the bench ; another, Mr.
Alexander, bookseller in Edinburgh, was the reputed author of a well-known
little work entitled “A Trip to London in a Berwick Smack.”
The following, we believe, is a pretty accurate list of Dr. Jamieson’s works :-
Sermons on the Heart. 2 vols. 8vo. 1789.
Sorrows of Slavery; a Poem, containing a faithful
statement of facts respecting the Slave Trade.
Loud 1789. 12mo.
Socinianism Unmasked, occasioned by Dr. Macgill’s
Practical Essay on the Death of Christ. 8vo.
An O r d i t i o n Sermon. 8vo.
A Dialogue between the Devil and a Socinian
Divine, on the contlnp.8 of the other world.
8vo.
An alarm to Great Britain ; or an Inquiry into the
Rapid Progress of Infidelity in the present age.
Loud. 1795. l2mo.
Vindication of the Doctrine of Scripture, and of the
Primitive Faith, concerning the Divinity of Christ,
in reply to Dr. Priestly’s History of Early Opinions,
&e. 2 vols. 8vo. 1795.
Conga1 and Fenella, a Tale. 8vo.
Eternity; a Poem, addressed to Freethinkers and
Philosophical Christians, 8vo. Loud. 1798.
Remarks on Rowland Hill’s Journal. 8vo. Loud.
1799.
The Use of Sacred Histot?., especially as illustrating
and confirming the Qreat Doctrines of Revelation.
To which are prefixed Two Dissertations,
the first on the Authenticity of the History contained
in the Pentateuch and the Book of Joshua ;
the second, proving that the Books ascribed to
Moses were actually written by him, and that he
wrote them by Divine Inspiration. 2 vols. 8vo.
Loud. 1802.
Important :Trial in the Court of Conscience. 8vo.
Lond. 1806.
An Etymological Dictionary OP the Scottish Language
; illustrating the words in their different
significations by examples Prom ancient and modern
writers; showing their affinity to those of other
languages, and especially the Northern: explaining
many terms which, though now obsolete in
England, were formerly common to both countries
and elucidating National Rites, Customs, and I n
stitutions, in analogy to those of other Nations
To which is pretlxed a Dissertation on the Origin
of the Scottish Language. 2 vols. 4tO. Edm.
1809-10. Two supplemental volumes were added
in 1825.
rhe Same Abridged, and published under the title
of An Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish
Language, in which the words are explained in
their differeLt senses, authorised by the names OP
the writers by whom they are used, or the titles of
the works in which they occur, and deduced from
their originals. 8vo. Edin. 1814.
Phe Beneficent Woman, a Sermon. 8vo. 1811.
Bermes Scythicus, or the Radical Affinities oP the
Greek and Latin Languages to the Qothic, illustrated
from the Moeso-Gothic, Anglo-Saxon, French, .
Alemannic, Suio-Qothic, Islandic, etc. To which
is pretixed a Dissertation on the Historical Proofs
of the Scythm Origin of the Greeks. 8vo. Lond.
1814.
On the Origin of Cremation, or the Burning of the
Dead. Tram. Soc. Edin. viii 83. 1817.
The Hopes of an Empire reversed ; or the Night OP
Pleasure turned into Fear : a Sermon on the Death
of the Princess Charlotte. 1818.
The Duty, Excellency, and Pleasantness of Brotherly
Unity, in Three Sermons. 8vo. 1819.
Historical Account of the Ancient Culdees oP Iona,
and of their Settlement in Scotland, England, and
Ireland. 4to. Edin. 1821.
Sletzer’s Theatrum Scotiaz, with Illustratious, etc.
Folio.
Views of the Royal Palacps 01 Scotland, with Historical
and Topopphical Illustrations. Royal 4to
1821.
Remarks on the Progress of the Roman Army in
Scotland during the Sixth Campaign of Agricola,
and an Account of the Roman Camps of Battledykes
and Hwrfauds with the Via Mdlituris extending
between them, in the County of Forfar ; forming
part of Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica, No.
36, 4to.
The Water Kelpie, or Spirit of the Waters, with a
Glossary, published in the third volume of Scott‘s
Mimtrelsy of the Border.
Besides the above acknowledged publications, Dr. Jamieson contributed
occasionally to the periodical works of the day. In particular, he was the writer
of an article in the Westminster Review upon the Origin of the Scottish Nation,
which attracted considerable notice. Nor, amid the cares of advancing
Mr. Robert Jameson wiw also a member of the Bannatyne .Club, and presented 85 his contribution,
in 1830, a beautiful reprint, in 4t0, of “Simeon Grahame’s Anatomie of Humours,” originally
printed at Edinburgh in 1609 ; and the “ Passionate Sparke of a Relenting Minde,” also by Grahame,
and published at London in 1604. He spelt
his name differently from his father, uniformly writing Janaeson in place of Jamison.
To which there is prefixed a brief prefatory notice.
VOL 11. 2T ... SKETCHES. 321 daughters and one son survived. One of his sons, the late Robert Jameson, Esq., ...

Book 9  p. 427
(Score 0.48)

162 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk.
Tience, he was appointed captain of the East New
Town Company, and inaugurated his new service
by fighting a duel with a Dr. Bennet, whom he
wounded, the dispute having occurred about some
Tepairs on the doctor?s chaise. ?He was,?? says
Kay?s editor, ? a fine manly-looking person, rather
florid in complexion, exceedingly polite in his manners,
and of gentlemanly attainments.? He was
treasurer of the city in 1795-6, and died at No. I,
*Gayfield Square, in 1823. His son Archibald,
born there, a High School boy, became physician
to the Emperor Alexander of Russia in 1817 ; he
was also physician to the Imperial Guard, was
knighted by the Emperor, and paid a visit to his
native city in 1823. He is refetred to in our
.account of Princes Street.
In a house on the west side of the square lived
Kincaid Mackenzie, in 1818-9 ; previously he had
resided in No. 14, Dundas Street. In 1817 he was
elected Lord Provost ; and two years afterwards he
.entertained at his house in the square, Prince Leopold,
afterwards King of the Belgians, He died
.suddenly, on the 2nd of January, 1830, when he
was about to sit down to dinner.
In the common stair, No. 31, Campbell of Barcaldine
had a house in 1811, at which time the
square was still called Gayfield Place.
Lower down the Walk, on the same side, was
the old Botanical Garden, the successor of the old
Physic Garden that lay in the swampy valley of the
North Loch, and the garden of Holyrood Palace.
Dr. John Hope, the professor of botany, appointed
in 1768, used every exertion to procure a
more favourable situation for a garden than the old
.one, and succeeded, about 1766, in obtaining such
aid and countenance from Government as enabled
him to accomplish the object he had so much at
?heart. *? His Majesty,? says Arnot, with laudable
detail-Government grants being few for Scotland
in those days-? was graciously pleased to
grant the sum of jt;1,330 IS. 24d. for making it,
and for its annual support A69 8s. ; at the same
time the magistrates and Town Council granted
the sum of ;Ezs annually for paying the rent of the
ground.?
The latter was five acres in extent, and the rapid
progress it made as a garden was greatly owing to
the skill and diligence of John Williamson, the
head gardener. ?? The soil,? says Amot, ? is sandy
.or gravelly.? Playfair, in his ? Illustrations of the
Huttonian Theory,? says of this garden that its
ground, ? after a thin covering is removed, consists
entirely of sea-sand, very regularly stratified with
layers of black carbonaceous matter in three
lameke interposed between them. Shells, I believe,
are rarely found in it ; but it has every other
appearance of a sea-beach.?
By 1780 it was richly stocked with trees to afford
good shelter for young and tender plana. In the
eastern division was the school of botany, containing
2,000 species of plants, systematically arranged,
A German traveller, nanied Frank, who
visited it in 1805, praised the order of the plants,
and says, ?? among others I saw a beautiful Fe+a
asafatida in full bloom. The gardens at Kew received
their plants from this garden.?
The latter was laid out under the immediate
direction of Dr. Hope, who arranged the plants
according to the system of Linneus, to whom, in
1778, he erected in the grounds a monument-a
vase upon a pedestal-inscribed :
LINNAEO POSUIT 10. HOPE.
He built suitable hothouses, and formed a pond
for the nourishment of aquatic plants. These were
all in the western division of the ground. The conservatories
were 140 feet long. Bruce of Kinnakd,
the traveller, gave the professor a number of
Abyssinian plant seeds, among them the plant which
cured him of dysentery, In a small enclosure the
industrious professor had a plantation of the true
rhubarb, containing 3,000 plants.
The greenhouse was covered by a dated roof,
according to the Sots Magazine, in 1809 ; and as
light was only admitted at the sides, the plants
were naturally drawn towards them. ? To remedy
this radical defect,? adds the writer, ? a glass roof
is necessary. The soil of this garden is by no
means good ; vast pains have been bestowed upon
it to produce what has been done. The situation,
which, at one period, may be admitted to have
been favourable, is now indifferent, and is daily
becoming worse, from the rapid encroachment of
building, and the Hasfing effects of an iron-foundry
on the opposite side of Leith Walk.?
Some of the new walks here were laid out by
Mr. John Mackay, said to be one of the most
enthusiastic botanists and tasteful gardeners that
Scotland had as then produced, and who died
in 1802.
In 1814, on the death of Dr. Roxburgh, he was
succeeded as superintendent of this garden by Dr.
Francis Buchanan, author of several works on
India, where, in 1800, he was chosen to examine
the state of the country which had been lately conquered
from Tippoo Sahib; he had also been surgeon
to the Marquis of Wellesley, then Governor-GeneraL
He died in 1829, prior to which, as we have elsewhere
related, this Botanical Garden had been
abandoned, and all its plants removed without ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Walk. Tience, he was appointed captain of the East New Town Company, and ...

Book 5  p. 162
(Score 0.48)

280 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [High Street.
?capital already created under the last charter is
L;~OO,OOO stock, making the existing capital
I,OOO,OOO, and there still remains unexhausted
the privilege to create L500,ooo more stock
.whenever it shall appear to be expedient to coinplete
the capital to the full amount conceded in
the charter-a success that the early projectors of
the first scheme, developed in Tweeddale?s Close,
could little have anticipated.
The British Linen Company for a long series
of years has enjoyed the full corporate and other
privileges of the old chartered banks of Scotland
; and in this capacity, along with the Bank of
Scotland and the Royal Bank of Scotland, alone is
specially exempted in the Bank Regulation Act for
Scotland, from making returns of ?the proprietors?
names to the Stamp Office.
In the sixth year of the 19th century Tweeddale
House became the scene of a dark event ? which
ranks among the gossips of the Scottish capital
with the Icon Basilike, or the Man with the Iron
Mask.?
About five in the evening of the 13th of November,
I 806, or an hour after sunset, a little girl whose
family lived in the close, was .sent by her mother
with a kettle to get water for tea from the Fountain
Well, and stumbling in the dark archway over
something, found it to be, to her dismay, the body
of a man just expiring. On an alarm being raised,
the victim proved to be William Begbie, the
messenger of the British Linen Company Bank, a
residenter in the town of Leith, where that bank was
the first to establish a branch, in a house close to
the cpper drawbridge. On lights being brought,
a knife was found in his heart, thrust up to the
haft, so he bled to death without the power of
uttering a word of explanation. Though a sentinel
of the Guard was always on duty close by, yet he
saw nothing of the event.
It was found that he had been robbed of a
package of notes, amounting in value to more than
four thousand pounds, which he had been conveying
from the Leith branch to the head office. The
murder had been- accomplished with the utmost
deliberation, and the arrangements connected with
it displayed care and calculation. The weapon
used had a broad thin blade, carefully pointed,
with soft paper wrapped round the hand in such a
manner as to prevent any blood from reaching the
person of the assassin, and thus leading to his
detection.
For his discovery five hundred guineas were
offered in vain ; in vain, too, was the city searched,
while the roads were patrolled; and all the evidence
attainable amounted to this :-? That Begbie, in
proceeding up Leith Walk, had been accompanied
by a ?man,? and that about the supposed time of
the murder ?a man? had been seen by some chi\-
dren to run out of the close into the street, and
down Leith Wynd. . . . . There was also reason
to believe that the knife had been bought in a shop
about two o?clock on the day of the murder,
and that it had been afterwards ground upon a
grinding-stone and smoothed upon a hone.?
Many persons were arrested on suspicion, and
one, a desperate character, was long detained in
custody, but months passed on, and the assassination
was ceasing to occupy public -attention, when
three men, in passing through the grounds of
Eellevue (where now Drummond Place stands) in
August, 1807, found in the cavity of an old wall, a
roll of bank notes that seemed to have borne exposure
to the weather. The roll was conveyed to
Sheriff Clerk Rattray?s office, and found to ?contain
L3,ooo in large notes of the money taken from
Begbie. The three men received Lzoo from the
British Linen Company as the reward of their
honesty, but no further light was thrown upon the
murder, the actual perpetrator of which has never,
to this hour, been discovered, though strong suspicions
fell on a prisoner named Mackoull in 1822,
after he was beyond the reach of the law.
This man was tried and sentenced to death by
the High Court of Justiciary in June, 1820, for
robbery at the Paisley Union Bank, Glasgow, and
was placed in the Calton gaol, where he was respited
in August, and again in September, ?during his
majesty?s pleasure ? (according to the Edinburgh
Week(yjournal), and where he died about the end
of the year. In a work published under the title
of ?The Life and Death of James Mackoull,?
there was included a document by Mr. Denovan,
the Bow Street Runner, whose object was to prove
that Mackoull aZiis Moffat, was the assassin of
Begbie, and his statements, which are curious, have
thus been condensed by a local writer in 1865 :-
? Still, in the absence of legal proof, there is a
mystery about this daring crime which lends a sort
of romance to its daring perpetrator, Mr. Denovan
discovered a man in Leith acting as a teacher, who
in 1806 was a sailor-boy belonging to a ship then
in the harbour. On the afternoon of the murder
he was carrying up some smuggled article to a friend
in Edinburgh, when he noticed ? a tall man carrying
a yellow coloured parcel under his arm, and a genteel
man, dressed in a black coat, dogging him.?
He at once concluded that the man with the parcel
was a smuggler, and the other a custom-house
oficer. Fearful of detection himself, he watched
their manmavres with considerable interest. He lost ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. . [High Street. ?capital already created under the last charter is L;~OO,OOO stock, ...

Book 2  p. 280
(Score 0.48)

138 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig.
latter married a lady whom Burke calls ?Miss
Alston, of America,? and died without any family,
and now the line of the Nisbets of Dean and
Craigantinnie has passed completely away ; but
long prior to the action recorded the branch at
Restalrig had lost the lands there and the old
house we have described.
In the beginning of the last century the proprietor
of Craigantinnie was Nisbet of Dirleton, of
the male line of that Sir John Nisbet of Dirleton
who was King?s Advocate after the Restoration.
It was subsequently the property of the Scott-
Nisbets, and on the death of John Scott-Nisbet,
Esq., in 1765, an action was raised against his
heirs and trustees, by Young of Newhall, regarding
the sale of the estate, which was ultimately carried
to the House of Peers.
Craigantinnie was next acquired by purchase by
William Miller, a wealthy seedsman, whose house
and garden, at the foot of the south back of the
Canongate, were removed only in 1859, when the
site was added to the Royal Park. When Prince
Charles?s army came to Edinburgh in 1745, he
obtained 500 shovels from William Miller for
trenching purposes. His father, also Wdliam Miller,
who died in 1757, in his eightieth year, had previously
acquired a considerable portion of what is
now called the Craigantinnie estate, or the lands
of Philliside, and others near the sea. He left
.&20,000 in cash, by which Craigantinnie proper
was acquired by his son M7illiam. He was well
known as a citizen of Edinburgh by the name of
?? the auld Quaker,? as he belonged to the Society
of Friends, and was ever foremost in all works of
chanty and benevolence.
About 1780, when in his ninetieth year, he
married an Englishwoman who was then in her
fiftieth year, with whom he went to London and
Pans, where she was delivered of a child, the late
William Miller, M.P. for Newcastle-under-Lyne ;
and thereby hangs a story, which made some stir
at the time of his death, as he was currently averred
to be a changeling-even to be a woman, a suggestion
which his thin figure, weak voice, absence of
all beard, aad some peculiarity of habit, seemed to
corroborate. Be that as it may, none were permitted-
save those interested in him-to touch his
body, which, by his will, lies now buried in a
grave, dug to the great depth of foity feet, on the
north side of the Portobello Road, and on the
lands of Craigantinnie, with a classic tomb of considerable
height and beauty erected over it.
At his death, without heirs, the estate passed into
the hands of strangers.
His gigantic tomb, however, with its beautiful
sculptures, forms one of the most remarkable
features in this locality. Regarding it, a writer in,
Tem~jZe Bar for 1881, says :-?? Not one traveller
in a thousand has ever seen certain sculptures
known as the ? Craigantinnie Marbles.? They arel
out of town, on the road to Portobello, beyond the
Piershill cavalry barracks, and decorate a mausoleum
which is to be found by turning off the high
road, and so past a cottage into a field, green and?
moist with its tall neglected grass. There is something
piquant in coming upon Art among humble?
natural things in the country or a thinly peopled
suburb.? After referring to Giotto?s work outside
Padua, he continues : ? It is obvious there is no
comparison intended between that early work of
Italy, so rich in sincere thought and beautiful expression,
and the agreeable, gracious and even
manly hbour, of the artist who wrought for modern
Scotland, the ?Song of Miriam? in this Craigantinnie
field. Still there is a certain freshness of pleasure
in the situation of the work, nor does examination
of the art displayed lead to prompt disappointment.?
Standing solitary and alone, westward of Restalrig
Church, towers the tall villa of Marionville,
which, though now rather gloomy in aspect, was
prior to 1790 the scene often of the gayest private
theatricals perhaps in Britain, and before its then
possessor won himself the unenviable name of ?? the
Fortunate Duellist,? and became an outcast and
one of the most miserable of men, The house is
enclosed by shrubbery of no great extent, and by
high walls. ?Whether it be,? says Chambers,
? that the place has become dismal in consequence
of the rise of a noxious fen in its neighbourhood,
or that the tale connected with it acts upon the
imagination, I cannot decide ; but unquestionably
there is about the house an air of depession and
melancholy such as could scarcely fail to strike the
most unobservant passenger.?
Elsewhere he mentions that this villa was built,
by the Misses Ramsay, whose shop was on the
east side of the old Lj-on Close, on the north side
of the High Street, opposite the upper end of the
City Guardhouse. There they made a fortune,
spent on building Marionville, which was locally
named hjpeet Ha? in derision of their profession.
Here, for some time before 1790, lived Captain
James Macrae, formerly of the 3rd Regiment of
Horse (when commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel
Sir Ralph Abercrombie), and now known as the
6th Dragoon Guards, or Carabineers ; and his story
is a very remarkable one, from the well-known
names that must be introduced in it. He was
Macrae of Holemains, whom Fowler, in his Ren-, ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. latter married a lady whom Burke calls ?Miss Alston, of America,? and died ...

Book 5  p. 138
(Score 0.48)

The Water of Leith.] MAJOR-GENERAL MITCHELL. 79
1849. Horatio Macculloch, R.S.A., a most distinguished
landscape painter, lived for many years
in No. 7, Danube Street, where the best of his
works were executed. With Sir Daniel Macnee,
P.R.S.A., he first obtained employment from Lizars,
the engraver, as colourists of Selby?s ?? Ornithology.?
In 1829 he first exhibited; and from thence onwards,
to his death in 1867, he contributed to the
yearly exhibitions, and won himself much fame in
Scotland.
In No. 16, Carlton Street, adjoining, lived for
many years his chief friend, Kenneth Macleay,
R.S.A., who was born at Oban in 1802, and after
being educated at the Trustees? School, was one of
the thirteen founders of the Royal Scottish Academy,
and at his death was the last survivor of
them. He was chiefly famous for his beautiful
miniatures on ivory, and latterly was well known
for his occasional sketches and delineations of
Highland life, many of which were painted at the
express desire of Her Majesty. He died at No. 3,
Malta Terrace, in 1878, in his seventy-sixth year.
He was an enthusiastic Celt, and fond of wearing
the Highland dress on Academy receptions, and
on every possible occasion.
Among others connected with art who made
Stockbridge their residence was George Kemp, the
luckless architect of Sir Walter Scott?s monument,
who had a humble flat in No. 28, Bedford Street ;
James Stewart, the well-known engraver of Sir
Wlliam Allan?s finest works, who lived in No. 4
of that gloomy little street called Hermitage Place ;
and Comely Bank, close by, was not without its
famous people too, for there, for some years after
his marriage, dwelt Thomas Carlyle, and, in No. I I,
James Browne, LL.D., author of the ?History 01
the Highland Clans,? and editor of the CaZea?onian
Mermv and of The Edinburgh Week& JournaZ,
and Macvey Napier?s collaborateur in the ?? Encyclopzdia
Britannica.? Some differences having
arisen between him and Mr. Charles Maclaren,
the editor of the Scotsman, regarding a fine-art
criticism, the altercation ran so high that a hostile
meeting took place at seven o?clock in the morning
of the 12th of November, 1829, somewhere neaI
Ravelston, but, fortunately, without any calamitous
sequel. He took a great lead in Liberal politics,
and in No. 11 entertained Daniel O?Connell more
than once. He died at Woodbine Cottage, Trinity,
an the 8th of April, 1841, aged fifty years. John
Ewbank, R.S.A., the marine and landscape painter,
livedat No. 5, Comely Bank; while No. 13 was thc
residence of Mrs. Johnstone, who while there
wrote many of her best novels-among them, ? Clan
Albyn : a National Tale ?-and contributed man]
able articles to johnstone?s Magazine, a now forgotten
monthly.
From a passage in a memoir of himself prefixed
to ? The Mountain Bard,? we find that the Ettrick
Shepherd, about 1813, was living in Deanhaugh
Street while at work on the ?Queen?s Wake,?
which he produced in that year; and that, in his
lodgings there, he was wont to read passages of
his poems to Mr. Gray, of the High School, whose
criticisms would seem to have led to a quarrel
between them.
Sir James Young Simpson, Bart., in his boyhood
and as a student lived with his brother, David
Simpson, a respectable master baker, in the shop,
No. I, Raeburn Place, at the corner of Dean Street.
When he first began to practise as a physician, it
was in a first flat of No. 2, Deanhaugh Street ; and
as his fame began to spread, and he was elected
Professor of Midwifery in the University in 1840,
in succession to Dr. Hamilton, he was living in
No. I, Dean Terrace.
In St. Bernard?s Crescent, for many years while
in the employment of the Messrs. Chambers, lived
Leitch Ritchie, author of ?? Schinderhannes, the
Robber of the Rhine,?? a famous romance in its
day ; also of ?? Travelling Sketches on the Rhine,
in Belgium, and Holland,? and many other works.
He was born in 1801, and died on the 16th of
January, 1865.
His neighbour and friend here was Andrew
Crichton, LL.D., author of a ?? History of Scandinavia
I? and other works, and twenty-one years
editor of the Edinburgh Advertiser.
In the same quarter there spent many years of
his life Major-General John Mitchell, a gallant old
Peninsular officer, who was an able writer on military
matters and biography. In 1803 he began life
as an ensign in the 57th Foot, and served in
all the campaigns in Spain and Portugal, France
and Flanders. Under the nomdepZuume of ?Sabretache,?
he wrote some very smart things, his
earliest productions appearing in Fraser?s Magazine
and the United Serzlice JournaZ. He was the
author of a ? Life of Wallenstein? (London,
1837), which, like his ?Fall of Napoleon,? was
well received by the public ; and Sir Robert Peel
acknowledged the importance of the information
he derived from the latter work, after the appearance
of which, Augustus, King of Hanover, presented
the author with a diamond brooch. He
was the author of many other works, including
?Biographies of Eminent Soldiers.? He was a
handsome man, with great buoyancy of spirit and
conversational powers ; thus ? Old Sabretache,? as
he was often called, was welcome everywhere. A ... Water of Leith.] MAJOR-GENERAL MITCHELL. 79 1849. Horatio Macculloch, R.S.A., a most distinguished landscape ...

Book 5  p. 79
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West PGrt.1 THE LAWSONS. 22;
of Cromwell, expelled the General Assembly from
Edinburgh, literally drumming the members out at
that gate, under a guard of soldiers, after a severe
reprimand, and ordering that never more than three
of them should meet together.
Marion Purdy, a miserable old creature, ? once
a milkwife and now a beggar,? in the West Port,
was apprehended in 1684 on a charge of witchcraft,
for ?laying frenzies and diseases on her
neighbours,? says Fountainhall ; but the King?s
Advocate failed to bring her to the stake, and she
was permitted to perish of cold and starvation in
prison about the Christmas of the same year.
Five years subsequently saw the right hand of
Chieslie, the assassin of Lockhart, placed above the
gate, probably on a spike ; and in the street close
by, on the 5th September, 1695, Patrick Falconar,
a soldier of Lord Lindsay?s regiment, was murdered
by George Cumming, a writer in Edinburgh,
who deliberately ran him through the body with
his sword, for which he was sentenced to be
hanged and have his estates forfeited. From the
trial, it appears that Cumming was much to blame,
and had previously provoked the unoffending soldier
by abusive language.
The tolls collected at the West Port barrier in
1690 amounted to A105 11s. Iid. sterling.
(Council Register.)
In the year of the Union the Quakers would
seem to have had a meeting-house somewhere in
the West Port, as would appear from a dispute
recorded by Fountainhall-? Poor Barbara Hodge ?
against Bartholoniew Gibson, the king?s farrier,
and William Millar, the hereditary gardener of
Holyrood.
On the south side of this ancient burgh, in an
opening of somewhat recent formation, leading to
Lauriston, the Jesuits have now a very large
church, dedicated to ?The Sacred Heart,? and
Capable of holding more than 1,000 hearers. It is
in the form of a great lecture hall rather than a
church, and was erected in 1860, by permission
of the Catholic Bishop Gillis, in such a form,
that if ever the order was suppressed in Scotland
the edifice might be used for educational
purposes. Herein is preserved a famous image
that once belonged to Holyrood, but was lately
discovered by E. Waterton, F.S.A., in a shop at
Peterborough.
Almost opposite to it, and at the northern corner
of the street, stood for ages the then mansion house
of the Lawsons of the Highriggs, which was demolished
in 1877, and was undoubtedly one of the
oldest, if not the very oldest, houses in the city.
When built in the fifteenth century it must have
(Crim. Trials.)
been quite isolated. It had crowstepped gables,
dormers on the roofs, and remarkably small
windows.
. It was the residence of an old baronial family,
long and intimately connected with the city.
?? Mr. Richard Lawson,? says Scott of Scotstarvet,
?Justice Clerk, conquest a good estate about Edinburgh,
near the Burrow Loch, and the barony of
Boighall, which his grandson, Sir William Lawson
of Boighall, dilapidated, and went to Holland to
the wars.? He was Justice Clerk in the time oi
James IV., from 1491 to 1505.
In 1482 his name first appears in the burgh
records as common clerk or recorder, when Sir
John Murray of Tulchad was Provost, a post which
the former obtained on the 2nd May, 1492. He
was a bailie of the city in the year 1501, and Provost
again in 1504. Whether he was the Richard
Lawson who, according to Pitscottie, heard the
infernal summons of Pluto at the Market Cross
before the army marched to Flodden we know not,
but among those who perished on that fatal field
with King James was Richard Lawson of the
Highriggs ; and it was his daughter whose beauty
led to the rivalry and fierce combat in Leith Loan
between Squire Meldrum of the Binns and Sir
Lewis Stirling, in 1516,
In 1555 we find John Lawson of the Highriggs
complaining to the magistrates that the water ot
the burgh loch had overflowed and (? drownit ane
greit pairt of his land,? and that he could get no
remedy therefor.
Lady Lawson?s Wynd, now almost entirely
demolished, takes its name from this family. The
City Improvement Trustees determined to form it
into a wide thoroughfare, running into Spittal Street.
In one of the last remaining houses there died, in
his 95th year, in June, 1879, a naval veteran named
M?Hardy, supposed to be the last survivor of the
actual crew of the Victory at Trafalgar. He was
on the main-deck when Nelson received his fatal
wound.
One of the oldest houses here was the abode of
John Lowrie, a substantial citizen, above whose
door was the legend-SoLr DEO. H.G. 1565, and a
shield charged with a pot of lilies, the emblems of
the Virgin Mary. ?John. Lowrie?s initials,? says
Wilson, ? are repeated in ornamental characters on
the eastern crowstep, separated by what appears
to be designed for a baker?s peel, and probably
indicating that its owner belonged to the ancient
fraternity of Baxters.?
The West Port has long been degraded by the
character of its inhabitants, usually Irish of the
lowest class, and by the association of its name with ... PGrt.1 THE LAWSONS. 22; of Cromwell, expelled the General Assembly from Edinburgh, literally drumming the ...

Book 4  p. 223
(Score 0.47)

218 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Fountainbridge.
tional cemetery, a little to the south, beyond Ardmillan
Terrace, near the new Magdalene Asylum,
a lofty, spacious, and imposing edifice, recently
erected in lieu of the old one, established in 1797.
Adjoining it is the Girls? House of Refuge, or
Western Reformatory, another noble and humane
institution, the directors of which are the Lord
Provost and magistrates of the city.
These edifices stand near the ancient toll of
Tynecastle, and may be considered the termination
of the city as yet, in this direction.
On removing an old cottage close by this toll,
in April, 1843, the remains of a human skeleton
were found buried close to the wall. The skull
had been perforated by a bullet, and in the plas
tered wall of the edifice a bullet was found flattened
against the stone.
On the western side of the Dalry Road, about
500 yards from the ancient mansion house, is the
Caledonian Distillery, one of the most extensive
in Scotland, and one of those which produce
? grain whisky,? as some make malt whisky only.
It was built in 1855, covers five acres of ground,
and occupies a situation most convenient for
carrying on a great trade. In every part it has
been constructed with all the most recent improvements
by its proprietors, the Messrs. Menzies,
Bernard, and Co. All the principal buildings are
five storeys in height, and so designed that the
labour of carrying the materials through the various
stages of manufacture is reduced to the smallest
amount, while branch lines from the Caledonian
and North British Railways converge in the centre
of the works, thus affording the ready means of
bringing in raw material and sending out products.
The extent of the traffic here may be judged
from the facts that 2,ooo quarters of grain and ZOO
tons of coal are used every week, while the quantity
of spirits sent out in the same time is 40,000
gallons, the duty on which is ~zo,ooo, or at the
rate of ~1,040,000 a year. The machinery is
propelled by five steam-engines, varying from 5 to
150 horse-power, for the service of which, and
supplying the steam used in distillation, there are
nine large steam boilers.
The Caledonian distillery contains the greatest
still in Scotland. In order to meet a growing
demand for the variety of whisky known as ? Irish,?
the proprietors of the Caledonian distillery, about
1867 fitted up two large stills of an old pattern,
with which they manufacture whisky precisely
similar to that which is made in Dublin. In connection
with this branch of their business, stores
capable of containing as many as 5,000 puncheons
were added to their works at Dalry, and in
these various kinds of whisky have been permitted
to lie for some time before being sent
Fountainbridge, a long and straggling suburb,
once among fields and gardens, at the close of the
last century and the beginning of the present contained
several old-fashioned villas with pleasuregrounds,
and was bordered on its northern side by
a wooded residence, the Grove, which still gives a
name to the streets in the locality.
Some of the houses at its southern end, near the
present Brandfield Place, were old as the time of
William 111. In the garden of one of them an
antique iron helmet, now in the Antiquarian
Museum, was dug up in 1781. In one of them
lived and died, in 1767, Lady Margaret Leslie,
third daughter of John Earl of Rothes, Lord High
Admiral of Scotland on the accession of George I.
in 1714.
A narrow alley near its northern end still bears
the name of the Thorneybank, i.e., a ridge
covered with thorns, long unploughed and untouched.
In its vicinity is Earl Grey Street, a
name substituted for its old one of Wellington
after the passing of the great Reform Bill, by order
oi the Town Council.
This quarter abuts on Lochrin, ?the place where
the water from the meadows (i.e. the burgh loch)
discharges itself,? says Kincaid, but ?rhinn? means
a flat place in Celtic in some instances ; and near
it is another place with the Celtic name of Drumdryan.
George Joseph Bell, Professor of Scottish Law
in the University of Edinburgh, was born in
Fountainbridge on the 26th March, 1770. A distinguished
legal writer, he was author of ?? Commentaries
on the Law of Scotland,? ? Principles of
the Law,? for the use of his students, and other
works, and held the chair of law from 1822 to
1843, when he was succeeded by Mr. John Shankmore.
Among the leading features in this locality are
the extensive city slaughter-houses, which extend
from the street eastward to Lochrin, having a
plain yet handsome and massive entrance, in the
Egyptian style, adorned with great bulls? heads
carved in freestone in the coving of the entablature.
These were designed by Mr. David Cousin, who
brought to bear upon them the result of his
observations made in the most famous abattoirs of
Pans, such as du Roule, de Montmartre, and de
Popincourt.
In 1791 there died in Edinburgh John Strachan,
x flesh-caddie, in his 105th year. ?? He recollected,??
jays the Scots Magazim, ?the time when no
DUL ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Fountainbridge. tional cemetery, a little to the south, beyond Ardmillan Terrace, ...

Book 4  p. 218
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124 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. : [Convivialia
In 1783, ? a chapter of the order? was adver
tised ?to be held at their chamber in Anetruther
Dinner at half-past two.?
The LAWNMARKET CLUB, with its so-callec
?gazettes,? has been referred to in our first volume
The CAPILLAIRE CLUB was one famous in thq
annals of Edinburgh convivalia and for it
fashionable gatherings. The Wee24 Xagaziz
for I 7 74 records that ?? last Friday night,?the gentle
men of the Capillaire Club gave their annual ball
The company consisted of nearly two hundrec
ladies and gentlemen of the first distinction. Thei
dresses were extremely rich and elegant. He
Grace the Duchess of D- and Mrs. Gen
S- made a most brilliant appearance. Mrs
S.?s jewels alone, it is said, were above ;C;30,00c
in value. ?The ball was opened about seven, anc
ended about twelve o?clock, when a most elegan
entertainment was served up.?
The ladies whose initials are given were evidentlj
the last Duchess of Douglas and Mrs. Scott, wift
of General John Scott of Balcomie and Bellevue
mother of the Duchess of Portland. She survivec
him, and died at Bellevue House, latterly the Ex
cise Office, Drummond Place, on the 23rd August
1797, after which the house was occupied by the
Duke of Argyle.
The next notice we have of the club in the same
year is a donation of twenty guineas by the mem
bers to the Charity Workhouse. ?? The Capillaire
Club,? says a writer in the ?Scottish Journal o
Antiquities,? ?was composed of all who were in.
clined to be witty and joyous.?
There was a JACOBITE CLUB, presided over a1
one time by tine Earl of Buchan, but of which
nothing now survives but the name.
The INDUSTRIOUS COMPANY was a club composed
oddly enough of porter-drinkers, very. numerous,
and formed as a species of joint-stock company,
for the double purpose of retailing their liquor for
profit, and for fun and amusement while drinking it,
They met at their rooms, or cellars rather, every
night, in the Royal Bank Close. There each member
paid at his entry As, and took his monthly
turn of superintending the general business of the
club; but negligence on the part of some of the
managers led to its dissolution.
In the Advertiser for 1783 it is announced as
a standing order of the WIG CLUB, ?that the
members in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh
should attend the meetings of the club, or if they
find that inconvenient, to send in their resignation;
it is requested that the members will be
pleased to attend to this regulation, otherwise their
places will be supplied by others who wish to be of
the club.-Fortune?s Tavern, February 4th, 1783.??
In the preceding January a meeting of the club is
summoned at that date, ? as St. P-?s day.:? Mr.
Hay of Drumelzier in the chair. As? there is no
saint for the 4th February whose initial is P, this
must have been some joke known only to the club.
Charles, Earl of Haddington, presided on the 2nd
December, 1783.
From the former notice we may gather that there
was a decay of this curious club, the president of
which wore a wig of extraordinary materials, which
had belonged to the Moray faniily,for three generations,
and each new entrant?s powers were tested,
by compelling him to drink ? to the fraternity in a
quart of claret, without pulling bit-i.e., pausing.?
The members generally drank twopenny ale, on
which it was possible to get intoxicated for the
value of a groat, and ate a coarse kind of loaf,
called Soutar?s clod, which, with penny pies of high
reputation in those days, were furnished by a shop
near Forrester?s Wynd, and known as the Ba@n
HoZe.
There was an BSCULAPIAN CLUB, a relic of
which survives in the Greyfriars Churchyard, where
a stone records that in 1785 the members repaired
the tomb of ?(John Barnett, student of phisick (sic)
who was born 15th March, 1733, and departed this
life 1st April, 1755.?
The BOAR CLUB was chiefly composed, eventually,
of wild waggish spirits and fashionable young men,
who held their meetings in Daniel Hogg?s tavern,
in Shakespeare Square, close by the Theatre RoyaL
? The joke of this club,? to quote ? Chambers?s
Traditio? s,? ? consisted in the supposition that all
the members were boars, that their room was a dy,
that their talk was grunting, and in the dozcbZeentendre
of the small piece of stoneware which served
as a repository for the fines, being a &. Upon
this they lived twenty years. I have at some expense
of eyesight and with no small exertion of
patience,? continues Chambers, ?? perused the soiled
and blotted records of the club, which, in 1824,
were preserved by an old vintner whose house was
their last place of meeting, and the result has been
the following memorabilia. The Boar Club commenced
its meetings in 1787, and the original
members were J. G. C. Schetky, a German
nusician ; David Shaw, Archibald Crawford,
Patrick Robertson, Robert Aldrige, a famous pantonimist
and dancing-master ; Jarnes Nelson, and
Luke Cross. . , , Their laws were first written
iown in due form in 1790. They were to meet
:very evening at seven o?clock ; each boar on his
:ntry contributed a halfpenny to the pig. A fine
if a halfpenny was imposed upon any person who ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. : [Convivialia In 1783, ? a chapter of the order? was adver tised ?to be held at their ...

Book 5  p. 124
(Score 0.47)

The High Street.] THE HIGH STREET.
six storeys each ; in short, down as far as the Cowgate
nothing was to be seen but frightful heaps of
calcined and blackened ruins, with gaping windows
and piles of smoking rubbish.
In the Par!iament Square four double tenements
of from seven to eleven storeys also perished, and
the incessant cmsh of falling walls made the old
vicinity re-echo. Among other places of interest
destroyed here was the shop of Kay, the cancaturist,
always a great attraction to idlers.
During the whole of Thursday the authorities
were occupied in the perplexing task of .examining
the ruined edifices in the Parliament Square. These
being of enormous height and dreadfully shattered,
threatened, by their fall, destruction to everything
in their vicinity. One eleven-storeyed edifice presented
such a very striking, terrible, and dangerous
appearance, that it was proposed to batter it down
with cannon. On the next day the ruins were inspected
by Admiral Sir David Milne, and Captain
(afterwardssir Francis) Head of theRoyal Engineers,
an officer distinguished alike in war and In literature,
who gave in a professional report on the subject,
and to him the task of demolition was assigned.
?
In the meantime offers of assistance from Captain
Hope of H.M.S. BnX, then in Leith Roads,
were accepted, and his seamen, forty in number,
threw a line over the lofty southern gable above
Heron?s Court, but brought down only a small
portion Next day Captain Hope returned to the
attack, with iron cables, chains, and ropes, while
some sappers daringly undermined the eastern wall.
These were sprung, and, as had been predicted by
Captain Head, the enormous mass fell almost
perpendicularly to the grognd.
At the Tron Church, on the last night of every
year, there gathers a vast crowd, who watch with
patience and good-humour the hands of the illuminated
clock till they indicate one minute past
twelve, and then the New Year is welcomed in
with ringing cheers, joy, and hilarity. A general
shaking of hands and congratdlations ensue, and
one and all wish each other ?? A happy New Year,
and mony 0? them.? A busy hum pervades the older
parts of the city; bands of music and bagpipes
strike up in many a street and wynd; and, furnished
with egg-flip, whiskey, &c., thousands hasten off in
all directions to ?first foot? friends and relations,
CHAPTER XXI.
THE HIGH STREET,
A Place for Brawling-First Paved and Lighted-The Meal and Flesh MarketsState of the Streets-Municipal Regulations 16th Century-
Tuleies-The Lairds of Ainh and Wemyss-The Tweedies of Drummelzier-A Mont- Quarrel-The Slaughter of Lord Tarthorwald-
-A Brawl in 1705-Attacking a Sedan Chair-Habits in Lhe Seventeenth Century-Abduction of Women and Girls-Sumptuary Law6
against Women.
BEFORE narrating the wondrous history of the many
quaint and ancient closes and wynds which diverged
of old, and some of which still diverge, from the
stately High Street, we shall treat of that venerable
thoroughfare itself-its gradual progress, changes,
and some of the stirring scenes that have been witnessed
from its windows.
Till so late as the era of building the Royal
Exchange Edinburgh had been without increase
or much alteration since King James VI. rode
forth for England in 1603. ?The extended wall
erected in the memorable year 1513 still formed
the boundary of the city, with the exception of the
enclosure of the Highriggs. The ancient gates remained
kept under the care of jealous warders,
and nightly closed at an early hour ; even as when
the dreaded iiiroads of the Southron summoned
the Burgher Watch to guard their walls. At the
foot of the High Street, the lofty tower and spire
of the Nether Bow Port terminated the vista, surmounting
the old Temple Bar of Edinburgh, interposed
between the city and the ancient burgh of
Canongate.?
On this upward-sloping thoroughfare first rose
the rude huts of the Caledonians, by the side of
the wooded way that led to the Dun upon the rock
-when Pagan rites were celebrated at sunrise on
the bare scalp of Arthur?s Seat-and destined
to become in future years ?the King?s High
Street,? as it was exclusively named in writs and
charters, in so far as it extended from the Nether
Bow to the edifice named Creech?s Land, at the
east end of the Luckenbooths. ?Here,? says a
writer, ? was the battle-ground of Scotland for
centuries, whereon private and party feuds, the
jealousies of nobles and burghers, and not a few of
the contests between the Crown and the people,
were settled at the sword.?
As a place for brawling it was proverbial ; and
thus it was that Colonel Munro, in ?His Expedition
with the Worthy Scots Regiment called
Mackeyes,? levied in 1626, for service in Denmark ... High Street.] THE HIGH STREET. six storeys each ; in short, down as far as the Cowgate nothing was to be seen ...

Book 1  p. 191
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York Place.] DR. ABERCROMBIE. 187
imagined, but can scarcely be described,? says the
CaZedonian Mercury of the 18th March. ?? From
eighty to a hundred persons, ladies as well as
gentlemen, were precipitated in one mass into an
apartment below, filled with china and articles of
vertu. The cries and shrieks, intermingled with
exclamations? and ejaculations of distress, were
heartrending ; but what added to the unutterable
agony of that awful moment, the density of the
cloud of dust, impervious to the rays of light, produced
total darkness, diffusing a choking atmosphere,
which nearly stifled the terrified multitude,
and in this state of suspense they remained several
minutes.? Among the mass of people who went
down with the floor were Lord Moncrieff, Sir
James Riddell of Ardnam~rchan, and Sir Archi-
. bald Campbell of Succoth. Many persons were
most severely injured, and Mr. Smith, banker, of
Moray Place, on whom the hearth-stone fell, was
killed.
. York Place, the continuation of this thoroughfare
to Queen Street, is nearly all unchanged since
it was built, and is broad and stately, with spacious
and lofty houses, which were inhabited by Sir
Henry Raeburn, Francis Homer, Dr. John Abercrombie,
Dr. John Coldstream, Alexander Geddes,
A.R.A., and other distinguished men.
No. 10 was the abode of Lord Craig, the successor
on the bench of Lord Hailes in 1792, and
whose well-known attainments, and especially his
connection with the Mirror and bunger, gave his
name an honourable place among local notorieties.
He was the cousin-german of the celebrated Mrs.
McLehose, the Clarinda of Robert Burns, and to
her he bequeathed an annuity, at his death, which
occurred in 1813. His house was afterwards occupied
by the gallant Admiral Sir David Milne, who,
when a lieutenant,. took possession of the P i p e
frigate, after her surrender to the Blanche, in the
West Indies ; captured L z Seine,, in I 798, and Lu
Vengeance, of 38 guns, in I 800, and who commanded
the hprepable, in the attack on Algiers, when he
was Rear-Admiral, and had 150 of his crew killed
and wounded, as Brenton records in his ?Naval
History.? He died a Knight Grand Cross of the
Bath, and left a son, Sir Alexander Milne, also
K.C.B., and Admiral, more than once commander
of fleets, and who first went to sea with his father
in the flag-ship hander, in 1817. Sir David died
on board of a Granton steamer, when returning
home, in 1845, and was buried at Inveresk.
Doctor John Abercrombie, Physician to Her
Majesty, lived in No. 19, and died there in 1844,
aged 64. He was a distinguished consulting
physician, and moral writer, born at Aberdeen, in
1781; F,RC.S. in 1823; and was author of
? Inquiries concerning the Intellectual Powers,?
which has gone through many editions, ?The Philosophy
of the Moral Feelings,? &c. His bust is
in the museum of the Royal College of Surgeons.
Concerning his death, the following curious story
has found its way into print. A Mrs. M., a native
of the West Indies, was at Blair Logie at the time
of the demise of Dr. Abercrombie, with whom she
had been very intimate. He died suddenly, without
any previous indisposition, just as he was about to
enter his carriage in York Place, at eleven o?clock
on a Thursday morning. On the night between
Thursday and Friday Mrs. M. dreamt that she saw
the whole family of Dr. Abercrombie dressed entirely
in white,dancing a solemn hneral dance, upon which
she awoke, wondering that she should have dreamt
anything so absurd, as it?was contrary to their
custom to dance on any occasion. Immediately
afterwards her maid came to tell her that she had
seen Dr. Abercrombie reclining against a wall
?with his jaw fallen, and a livid countenance,
mournfully shaking his head as he looked at her.?
She passed the day in great uneasiness, and wrote
to inquire for the Doctor, relating what had h i p
pened, and expressing her conviction that he was
dead, and her letter was seen by several persons
in Edinburgh on the day of its amval.
No. 22 was the house of Lord Newton, known
as the wearer of ? Covington?s gown,? in memory
of the patriotism and humanity displayed by the
latter in defending the ?Jacobite prisoners on their
trial at Carlisle in 1747. His judicial talents and
social eccentricities formed the subject of many
anecdotes. He participated largely in the bacchanalian
propensities so prevalent among the legal
men of his time, and was frequently known to put
?? three lang craigs ? (i.e. long-necked bottles of
claret) ? under his belt ? after dinner, and thereafter
dictate to his clerk a paper of more than skty pages.
The MS. would then be sent to press, and the
proofs be corrected next morning at the bar of the
Inner House.
He would often spend the whole night in con,
vivial indulgence at the Crochallan Club, perhaps
be driven home to York Place about seven in the
morning, sleep for two hours, and be seated on the
bench at the usual hour. The French traveller
Simond relates his surprise ?on stepping one
morning into the Parliament House to find in the
dignified capacity and exhibiting all the dignified
bearing of a judge, the very gentleman with whom
he had just spent a night of debauch and parted
from only one hour before, when both were excessively
intoxicated.?
. ... Place.] DR. ABERCROMBIE. 187 imagined, but can scarcely be described,? says the CaZedonian Mercury of the ...

Book 3  p. 187
(Score 0.47)

High Street.] THE MAXWELLS OF MONREITH. 275
Theresa, and other royal and imperial personages,
which had been presented as friendly memorials to
the ambassador, have all been dispersed by the
salesman?s hammer, and Hyndford?s Close, on my
trying to get into it lately in 186P, was inaccessible
(literally) from filth.? Another writer, in 1856, says
in his report to the magistrates, ?that, with proper
drainage, causeway, and cleanliness, it might be
made quite respectable.?
Prior to the Carmichaels of Hyndford it had
been, for a time, the residence of the Earls of
Stirling, the first of whom ruined himself in tEx
colonisation of Nova Scotia, for which place he
set sail with fourteen ships filled with emigrants
and cattle in 1630. Here then, in this now
humble but once most picturesque locality-for
the house was singularly so, with its overhanging
timber gables, its small court and garden sloping
to the south-lived John third Earl of Hyndford,
the living representative of a long line of warlike
ancestors, including Sir John Carmichael of that
ilk, who broke a spear with the Duke of Clarence
at the battle of Bauge-en-Anjou, when the Scots
routed the English, the Duke was slain, and Carmichael
had added to his paternal arms a dexter
hand and arm, holding a broken spear,
In 1732 he was Lieutenant-Colonel of a company
in the Scots Foot Guards, and was twice
Commissioner to the General Assembly before
1740, and was Lord of Police in Scotland. In the
following year, when Frederick the Great invaded
Silesia, he was sent as plenipotentiary extraordinary
to adjust the differences that occasioned the
war, and at the conclusion of the Treaty of Breslau
had the Order of the Thistle conferred upon him
by George II., receiving at the same time a grant
from Frederick, dated at Berlin, 30th September,
1742, for adding the eagle of Silesia to his paternal
arms of Xyndford, with the motto Ex bene merifo.
He was six years an ambassador at the Russian
Court, and it wasbyhis able negociations that 30,000
Muscovite troops contributed to accelerate the
peace which was concluded at Aix-la-Chapelle.
These stimng events over, the year 1752 saw
him leave his old abode in that narrow close off
the High Street, to undertake a mission of the
greatest importance to the Court of Vienna. On
the death of Andrew Earl of Hyndford and Viscount
Inglisberry, in r817, the title became extinct,
but is claimed by a baronet of the name 01
Carmichael.
The entry and stair on the west side of Hyndford?s
Close was always a favourite residence, in
consequence of the ready access to it from the
High Street.
In the beginning of the reign of George 111. here
lived Lady Maxwell of Monreith, d e Magdalene
Blair of that ilk, and there she educated and
reared her three beautiful daughters-Catharine,
Jane, and Eglantine (or Eglintoun, so named after
the stately Countess Susanna who !ived in the Old
Stamp Office Close), the first of whom became the
wife of Fordyce of Aytoune, the second in 1767,
Duchess of Gordon, and the third, Lady Wallace
of Craigie.
Their house had a dark passage, and in going
to the dining-room the kitchen door was passed,
according to an architectural custom, common in
old Scottish and French houses; and such was
the thrift and so cramped the accommodation
in those times, that in this passage the laces
and fineries of the three young beauties were
hung to dry, while coarser garments were displayed
from a window pole, in the fashion
common to this day in the same localities for the
convenience of the poor. ? So easy and familiar
were the manners of the great, fabled to be so
stiff and decorous,? says the author of ?Traditions
of Edinburgh,? who must vouch for the story,
? that Mis,s Eglantine, afterwards Lady Wallace,
used to be sent across the street to the Fountain
Well for water to make tea. Lady Maxwell?s
daughters were the wildest romps imaginable. An
old gentleman who was their relation, told me that
the first time he saw these beautiful girls was in
the High Street, where Miss Jane, afterwards
Duchess of Gordon, was riding upon a sow, which
Miss Eglantine thumped lustily behind with a
stick. It must be understood that in the middle
of the eighteenth century vagrant swine went as
commonly about the streets of Edinburgh a?s dogs
do in our own day, and were more generally followed
as pets by the children of the last generation.
It may, however, be remarked, that the sows upon
which the Duchess of Gordon and her witty sister
rode when children, were not the common va,mnts
of the High Street, but belonged to Peter Ramsay,
of the inn in St. Mary?s Wynd, and were among
the last that were permitted to roam abroad. The
romps used to watch the animals as they were let
loose in the forenoon in the stable yard (where they
lived among the horse litter) and got upon their
backs the moment they issued from the close.?
Their eldest brother, Lieutenant-Colonel Maxwell,
of the 74th Highlanders, commanded the
grenadier companies of the army under Cornwallis
in the war against Tippoo, and died in India in
1800.
In the same stair with Lady Maxwell lived Anne
Dalrymple, Countess of James firth Earl of Bal ... Street.] THE MAXWELLS OF MONREITH. 275 Theresa, and other royal and imperial personages, which had been ...

Book 2  p. 275
(Score 0.47)

:a brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and,
at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans
in the border stronghold.
At this time,the winter snow was covering all the
vast expanse of leafless forest, and the hills-then
growing only heath and gorse-around the Castle of
Edinburgh; and there the queen, with her sons
Edmond, Edgar, and David, and her daughters
Mary and Matilda (surnamed the Good, afterwards
queen of Henry I. of England), were anxiously
waiting tidings from the king and his son Edward,
who?had pressed the siege of Alnwick with such
severity that its garrison was hourly expected to
surrender. A sore sickness was now preying on
the wasted frame of the queen, who spent her days
in prayer for the success of the Scots and the
safety of the king. and prince.
All old historians vie with each other in praise of
the virtuous Margaret. ?? When health and beauty
were hers,? says one writer, ?she devoted her
strength to serve the poor and uncultivated people
whom God had committed to her care; she fed them
with her own hand, smoothed their pillow in sickness,
and softened the barbarous and iron rule of
their feudal lords. No wonder that they regarded
her as a guardian angel among them.?
She daily fed three hundred,? says another
authority, ?waiting upon them on her bended
knees, like a housemaid, washing their feet and
kissing them, For these and other expenses she
not only parted with her own royal dresses, but
more than once she drained the treasury.?
Malcolm, a Celt, is said to have been unable to
read the missals given him by his fair-haired Saxon,
but he was wont to kiss them and press them to
his heart in token of love and respect.
In the castle she built the little oratory on the
very summit of the rock. It stands within the
.citadel, and is in perfect preservation, measuring
about twenty-six feet long by ten, and is spanned
by a finely ornamented a p e arch that springs from
massive capitals, and is covered with zig-zag mouldings.
It was dedicated to her in after years, and
liberally endowed.
?There she is said to have prophetically announced
the surprise of the fortress in 1312, by
causing to be painted on the wall a representation
of a man scaling the Castle rock, with the inscription
underneath, ? Garak-vow Franfais,? a prediction
which was conveniently found to be verified
when the Castle was re-taken from the English by
William Frank (or Francis) and Earl Randolph ;
though why the Saxon saint should prophesy in
French we are left to conjecture.?
Comzcted with the residence of Edgar Atheling?s
sister in Edinburgh Castle there is another
legend, which states that while there she commissioned
her friend St. Catharine-but which
St. Catharine it fails to specify-to bring her some
oil from Mount Sinai; and that after long and
sore travel from the rocks of Mount Horeb, the
saint with the treasured oil came in sight of the
Castle of Edinburgh, on that ridge where stood
the Church of St Mary, built by Macbeth, baron
of Liberton. There she let fall the vessel containing
the sacred oil, which was spilt; but there
sprang up in its place a fountain of wonderful
medicinal efficacy, known now as the Balm Well
of St. Catharine, where the oil-which practical
folk say is bituminous and comes from the coal
seams-may still be seen floating on the limpid
water. It figuted long in monkish legends. For ?
vges a mound near it was alleged to be the tomb of
St Catharine; and close by it James IV. erected a
beautiful little chapel dedicated to St. Margaret,
but long since demolished.
During the king?s absence at Alnwick, the queen,
by the severity of her fastings and vigils, increased
a heavy illness under which she laboured. Two
days before her death, Prince Edgar, whom some
writers call her brother, and others her son, arrived
from the Scottish camp with tidings that Malcolm
had been slain, with her son Edward.
? Then,? according to Lord Hailes, who quotes
Turgot?s Life of SL Margaret, ?? lifting up her eyes
and hands towards heaven, she said, Praise and
blessing be to Thee, Almighty God, that Thou hast
been pleased to make me endure so bitter anguish
in the hour of my departure, thereby, as I trust, to
purify me in some measure from the corruption of
my sins; and Thou, Lord Jesus Christ, who
through the will of the Father, hast enlivened
the world by Thy death, oh, deliver me ! ? While
pronouncing ? deliver me? she expired.?
This, according to the Bishop of St. Andrews,
Turgot, previously Prior of Durham, was after she
had heard mass in the present little oratory, and
been borne to the tower on the west side of the
rock ; and she died holding in her hand a famous
relic known as ?the black rood of Scotland,? which
according to St. Elred, ?was a cross an ell long,
of pure gold and wonderful workmanship, having
thereon an ivory figure of our Saviour marvellously
adorned with gold.?
This was on 16th of November, 1093, when she
was in the forty-seventh year of her age. Unless
history be false, with the majesty of a queen and
the meekness of a saint Margaret possessed a
beauty that falls but seldom to the lot of women ;
and in her time she did much to soften the ... brave prince, demanded instant restitution, and, at the head of an army, laid siege to the Normans in the ...

Book 1  p. 18
(Score 0.47)

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