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234 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
for all the world.”1 It was the fate of this old mansion of the Earls of Angus to be
linked at its close in the misfortunes of a Douglas. It formed during last century the
banking-house of Douglas, Heron, & Company, whose failure spread dismay and suffering
through a widely-scattered circle, involving both high and low in its ruin. The Chapel of
Ease in New Street, erected in 1794, now partly occupies the site. Several other interesting
relics of the olden time were destroyed to make way for this ungainly ecclesiastical
edifice. One of these appears from the titles to have been the residence of Henry Kinloch,
a wealthy burgess of the Canongate, to whose hospitable care the French ambassador was
consigned by Queen Mary in 1565. An old diarist of the period relates, that ‘‘ Vpoun
Monunday the ferd day of Februar, the seir of God foirsaid, thair come ane ambassatour
out of the realm of France, callit Monsieur Rambollat, with xxxvj horse in tryne, gentilmen,
throw Ingland, to Halyrudhous, quhair the King and Queenis Majesties wes for the
tyme, accumpanyit with thair nobillis. And incontinent efter his lychting the said ambassatour
gat presens of thair graces, and thairefter depairtit to Henrie Kynloches lugeing
in the Cannogait besyid Edinburgh.” A few days afterwards, ‘( The Kingis Majestie
[Lord Darnley], accumpanyit with his nobillis in Halyrudhous, ressavit the ordour of
knychtheid of the cokill fra the said Rambollat, with great magniilcence. And the samin
nycht at evin, our soueranis maid ane banket to the ambassatour foirsaid, in the auld
chappell of Halyrudhous, quhilk wes reapparrellit with fyne tapestrie, and hung m a p s -
centlie, the said lordis maid the maskery efter supper in ane honrable manner. And
vpoun the ellevint day of the said moneth, the King and Quene in lyik manner bankettit
the samin ambassatour ; and at evin our soueranis maid the maskrie and mumschance,
in the quhilk the Queenis grace, and all her maries and ladies wer all cledin men’s apperrell;
and everie ane of thame presentit ane quhingar, bravelie and maist artiticiallie made and
embroiderit with gold, to the said ambassatour and his gentlemen.” * On the following
day the King and Queen were entertained, along with the ambassador and his suite, at a
splendid banquet provided for them in the Castle by the Earl of Mar ; and on the second
day thereafter, Monsieur Rambollat bade adieu to the Court of Holyrood. It is to be
regretted that an accurate description cannot now be obtained of the burgher mansion
which was deemed a fitting residence for one whom the Queen delighted to honour,
and for whose entertainment such unwonted masquerades were enacted. It was probably
quite as homelya dwelling as those of the same period that still remain in the neighbourhood.
The sole memorial of it that now remains is the name of the alley running
between the two ancient front lands previously described, through which the ambassador
and his noble visitors must have passed, and which is still called Kinloch’s Close after
their burgher host.
New Street, which is itself a comparatively recent feature of the old burgh, is a curious
sample of a fashionable modern improvement, prior to the bold scheme of the New Town.
It still presents the aristocratic feature of a series of detached and somewhat elegant mansions.
Its last century occupants were Lord Kames-whose house is at the head of the
street on the east side-Lord Hailes, Sir Philip and Lady Betty Anstruther, and Dr
Hume of Godscroft’s History of the Douglases, p. 432. ’ Diurnal of Occurrenta, pp. 86, 87. There appears, indeed (Maitlaud, p. 149), to have been another Kinloch‘s
lod,&g near the palace, but the correapondenoe of name and data Beems to prove the above to be the one referred to. ......

Book 10  p. 308
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250 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Geddes, the heroine of 1637, was one of the kail wives of the Tron, her famous stool-the
formidable weapon with which she began the great rebellion, by hurling it at the Dean of
St Giles’ head-must have perished in this repentant ebullition of joy, and accordingly
that the relic shown in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries is undeserving of credit.
We must protest, however, against so rash an hypothesis, which would involve the
destruction of the sole monument of the immortal Janet’s heroic onslaught; seeing there can
be no reasonable question that a dame so zealous and devout would reserve her best stool for
the Sunday’s services, and content herself with a common creepie for her week-day avocations
at the Tron I There is no doubt, however, that Jenny gave unequivocal proofs of
her loyalty at a later period, as she is specially mentioned in the Mercurius Caledonius, a
newspaper published immediately after the Restoration, as having taken a prominent share
in similar rejoicings on the coronation of the king in 1661. “But among all our bontados
and caprices,’’ says the curious.annalist, ‘‘ that of the immortal Jenet Geddis, Princesse of
the Trone Adventurers, was most pleasant, for she was not only content to assemble all her
creels, basquets, creepies, frames, and other ingredients that composed the shope of her
sallets, radishes, turnips, carrots, spinage, cabbage, with all other sort of pot merchandise
that belongs to the garden, but even her leather chair of state, where she used to dkpense
justice to the rest of her langkale vassals, were all very orderly burned; she herself
countenancing the action with a high-flown flourish and vermillion majesty.”
Halkerston’~W ynd, which is the first close now remaining on the north side of the
. High Street below the Tron Church, had once been a place of considerable note, but
nearly every vestige of antiquity has disappeared. We have already given a view a of a
very curious ancient lintel still remaining on the east side, which bears on it the monogram
IHS, and a cross-Jeury, with a coronet surmounting the letter D. The whole style
and character of this doorway indicates a date long anterior to the Reformation, but the
building to which it belonged has been demolished, all but a portion of the outer wall,
and we have failed to obtain any clue to its early history. It was in its later state a
timber-fronted land, having a good deal of carving along the gables, and an ornamental
stone stair-case projecting beyond, altogether indicatiug the remains of a magnxcent
and costly mansion of the olden time. Adjoining this, another doorway, forming a
similar vestige of a more modern building, bears the common inscription, BLISSIT . BE
GOD . FOR . AL . HIS . GIFTIS . and the initials and date RD * D - 1609.. This ancient
alley formed one of the accesses to the city from the north, previous to the erection of the
North Bridge. Fountainhall’ gives a curious account of an action brought by Robert
Malloch in 1701 against the magistrates of Edinburgh, for shutting up the Halkerston’s
Wynd Port. From this it appears that a suburban village had sprung up on Moutrie’s
Hill, the site now occupied by James’ Square, in which a number of poor weavers and other
tradesmen had set up in defiance of the incorporations of the Gude Toun. The deacons
finding their crafts in danger, took advantage of an approaching election to frighten the
magistrates into a just sense of the enormity of tolerating such unconstitutional interlopers
Even Jenny Geddes’s well-earned reputation “cannot live out of the teeth of emulation.” Kincaid (Hist. of Edin.
p. 63) puts forward a new claimant to her honours, “ an old woman named Hamilton, grandmother to Robert Mein,
late Dean of Guild officer in Edinburgh”
Ante, p. 118. Fountainhall’s Decisions, vol. ii. p. 110. ......

Book 10  p. 271
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364 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
were derivable from it to the Crown is proved by the frequent payments with which it was
burdened by different monarchs, as in the year 1477, when Ring James 111. granted out
of it a perpetual annuity of twelve merks Scots, for support of a chaplain to officiate at the
altar of the upper chapel, in the Collegiate Church of the blessed Virgin Mary which he
had founded at Restalrig. The King’s Work was advantageously placed at the mouth of
the harbour, ao as to serve 8s a defence against any enemy that might approach it by sea.
That it partook of the character of a citadel or fortification, seems to be implied by an
infeftment granted by Queen Mary in 1564 to John Chisholme, who is there designated
comptroller of artillery. The ancient buildings had shared in the general conflagration
which sipalised the departure of the army of Henry VIII. in 1544, and they would appear
to have been re-built by Chisholme in a style of substantial magnificence. The following
are the terms in which the Queen confirms her former grant to the comptroller of artillery
on his completion of the work :-<‘ Efter hir hienes lauchfull age, and revocation made in
parliament, hir majeste sett in feu farme to hir lovite suitoure Johnne Chisholme, his airis
and asignais, all and haille hir landis, callet the King’s Werk in Leith, within the
boundis specifit in the infeftment, maid to him thairupon, quhilkis than war alluterlie
dkcayit, and sensyne are reparit and reedifit be the said Johnne Chisholme, to be policy
and great decoratioun of this realme, in that oppin place and sight of all strangearia and
utheris resortand at the schore of Leith.” The property of the Ring’s Work remained
vested in the Crown, notwithstanding the terms of this royal grant. In 1575, we find it
converted into an hospital for the reception of those who recovered from the plague, and
in 1613 it was bestowed by James VI. on his favourite cAam6er-chieZd, or groom of the
chamber, Bernard Lindsay of Lochill, by a royalgrant which empowered him to keep four
taverns therein. A part of it was then fitted up as a Tennis Court for the favourite
pastime of catchpel, and continued to be used for this purpose till the year 1649, when it
was taken possession of by the Magistrates of Edinburgh, and converted into the Weigh
House of the burgh. The locality retained the name of Bmnard’s Nook, derived from its
occupation by the royal servitor ; and that of Bernard Street, which is now conferred on
the broad thoroughfare that leads eastward from the Shore, still preserves a memorial of
the favourite chamber-chield of Jamee VI. A large stone panel which bore the date
1650-the year immediately succeeding the appropriation of the King’a Work to civic
purposes-appeared on the north gable of the old Weigh-house which till recently
occupied its site, with the curious device of a rainbow carved in bold relief, springing at
either end from a bank of clouds.
The chief thoroughfare which leads in the same direction, and the one we presume
which superseded the Burgess Close as the principal approach to the harbour, is the Tolbooth
Wynd, where the ancient Town Hall stood: a singularly picturesque specimen of
the tolbooth of an old Scottish burgh. Jt was built by the citizens of Leith in the year
1565, though not without the strenuous opposition of their jealous over-lords of the Edinburgh
Council, who threw every impediment in their way; until at length Queen Mary,
after repeated remonstrances, wrote to the Provost and Magistrates :-46 We charge zow
that ee permit oure Inhabitants of oure said toun of Leith, to big and edifie oure said Hous
of Justice, within oure said Toun of Leith, and mak na stop nor impediment to thame to do
the samyn, for it is oure will that the aamyn be biggit, and that ze disist fra further molest ......

Book 10  p. 400
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198 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
1490 ; and in the following century it was the scene of the assassination of M‘Lellan
of Bombie, who in the year 1525, was waylaid and slain there in open day, with perfect
impunity, by the lairds of Lochinvar and Drumlanrig, during the turbulent sway of
the Douglases, in the minority of James V. Numerous personal encounters occurred
at the same place in early times, consequent on its vicinity to the Parliament House
and courts of law; and even after the fruits of many revolutions had put an end to
such scenes of violence, this dark alley maintained somewhat of its old character, as a
favourite resort of the thief and pickpocket,-degenerate successors of the cateran and
moss-trooper !
The timber
land immediately in front of St Giles’s steeple was only three stories high, and with a very
low-pitched roof, so as to admit of the clock being seen by passers in the High Street;
while the one adjoining it to the west, after rising to the height of five stories and finishing
with two very steep overhanging gables in front, had a sixth reared above these, with
a flat lead roof,-like a crow’s nest stuck between the battlements of some ancient peel
tower.’ The two most easterly lands in the Luckenbooths differed from the rest in being
tall and substantial erections of polished ashlar work. The first of these was surmounted
with stone gables of unequal size, somewhat in the style of “ Gladstone’s land,” at the head
of Lady Stair’s Close, and apparently built not later than the reign of Charles I. The other
building, which presented its main front down the High Street, though evidently a more
recent erection, yielded in interest to none of the private buildings of Edinburgh. ‘( Creech’s
Land,” as it was termed, according to the fashion of the burgh, after one of its latest and
most worthy occupants, formed the peculiar haunt of the muses during the last century.
”hither Allan Ramsay removed in 1725,-immediately after publishing the fist complete
edition of his great pastoral poem,-from the sign of the Mercury’s Head, opposite Niddry’s
Wynd, and there,-on the first floor, which had formerly been the London Coffee House,
*-he substituted for his former celestial sign, the heads of Ben Jonson and Drummond
of Hawthornden, and greatly extended his business with the profits of his successful
devotion to the Muses. It was on his removal to this central locality that he established
his circulating library,-the first institution of the kind known in Scotland, not without
both censure and interference from some of the stricter leaders of society at that period.
“ Profaneness,” says Wodrow, “ is come to a great height ; all the villanous, profane,
and obscene books of plays, printed at London by Curle and others, are got down from
London by Allan Ramsay, and lent out for an easy price to young boys, servant women
of the better sort, and gentlemen; and vice and obscenity dreadfully propagated.”
Ramsay’s fame and fortune progressed with unabating vigour after this period; and
his shop became the daily resort of the leading wits and literati, as well as of every
traveller of note that visited the Scottish capital.
The buildings of the middle row were extremely irregular in character.
Ante, p. 28. ’ Maitland informs us (p. 181) that the Krames were first erected against St cfiles’s Church in 1555. The Boothraw,
or Luckenbooths, however, we have shown (ante, p. 172) was in existence 150 years before that, and probably
much earlier. Maitland derives its latter name from a species of woollen cloth called Luken, brought from the Low
Countries ; but Dr Jamieson assigns the more probable source in the old Scotch word Luckm, closed, or shut up ;
signifying booths closed in, and admitting of being locked, in contradistinction to the open stands, which many still living
can remember to have seen displayed in the Lawnmarket every market day. ......

Book 10  p. 217
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156 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH,
which appears prominently in our view of the Castle Hill, with the inscription LAVS
DEO, and the date 1591, curiously wrought in antique iron letters on its front. The most
ancient portions of the interior that remain seem quite as early in character as those we
have been describing ; and indeed the back part of it, extending into the dose, has apparently
been built along with the mansion of the Queen Regent. The earliest titles of this
building now existing are two contracts of alienation, bearing date 1590, by which the upper
and under portions of the land are severally disposed of to Robert M‘Naught and James
Rynd, merchant burgesses. The building, in all probability, at that period was a timberfronted
land, similar to those adjoining it, which were taken down in 1845. Immediately
thereafter, as appears from the date of the building, the handsome polished ashlar front,
which still remains, had been erected at their joint expense. In confirmatiou of this there
is sculptured, under the lowest crow-step at the west side of the building, a shield bearing .
an open hand, in token of amity, as we presume, with the initials of both proprietors.’
In an apartment on the second floor of this house, an arched ceiling was accidentally
discovered some years since, decorated with a series of sacred paintings on wood, of a very
curious and interesting character, A large circular compartment in the centre contsins
the figure of our Saviour, with a radiauce round His head, and His left hand resting on
a royal orb. Within the encircling border are these words, in gilded Roman letters, on
a rich blue ground, Ego sum via, veritas, et vita, 14 Johne. The paintings in the larger
compartments represent Jacob’s Dream, Christ asleep in the storm, the Baptism of
Christ, and the Vision of Death from the Apocalypse, surmounted by the symbols of the
Evangelists. The distant landscape of the Lake of Galilee in the second picture presents
an amusing, though by no means unusual liberty, taken by the artist with his subject.
It consists of a view of Edinburgh from the north, terminating with Salisbury Crags on
the left and the old Castle on the right! This pictorial license affords a clue as to the
probable period of the work, which, as far as it can be trusted, indicates a later period than
the Regency of Mary of Guise. The steeples of the Nether Bow Port and the old Weighhouse
are introduced-the first of which was erected in the year 1606, and the latter
taken down in 1660. The fifth picture, and the most curious of all, exhibits an allegorical
representation, as we conceive, of the Christian life. A ship, of antique form, is seen
in full sail, and bearing on its pennon and stern the common symbol, IHS. A crowned
figure stands on the deck, looking towards a burning city in the distance, and above him
the word VB. On the mainsail is inscribed Curitus, and over the stern, which is in the
fashion of an ancient galley, [Salpiencia. Death appears as a skeleton, riding on a dark
horse, amid the waves immediately in front of the vessel, armed with a bow and arrow,
which he is pointing at the figure in the ship, while a figure, similarly armed, and mounted
on a huge dragon, follows in it.s wake, entitled Persecutio, and above it a winged demon,
over whom is the word Diaboolus. In the midst of these perils there is seen in the sky a
radiance surroundiig the Hebrew word i71iV, and from this symbol of the Deity a hand
issues, taking hold of a line attached to the stern of the vessel. The whole series is executed
with, great spirit, though now much injured by damp and decay. The broad borders between
them are richly decorated with every variety of flowers, fruit, harpies, birds, and fancy
1 This is oue undoubted example of the date on a building being put on at a considerably later period than its erection,
an Occurrence which we have fouud reason to auapect in various other instancea. ......

Book 10  p. 169
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348 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGN.
is on the west side of the square, No. 25, and there the lively and curious boy grew up to
manhood under the kindly surveillance of the good old pair. The little back room still
remains, ‘( That early den,” with the young antiquary’s beginnings of the future Abbotsford
collection, described so piquantly in Lockhart’s life of him, by the pen of a female
friend ; and where Lord Jeffrey found him on his first visit, long years ago, “ surrounded
with dingy books.’’ Though shorn of all the strange relics that young Walter Scott
gathered there, it possesses one valuable memento of the boy. On one of the window
panes his name is still seen, inscribed with.a diamond in a school-boy hand; and other
panes of glass, which contained juvenile verses traced in the same durable manner, have
been removed to augment the treasures of modern collectors. On the east side of George
Square lies Windmill Street, the name of which preserves the record of an earlier period
when a windmill occupied its site, and raised the water from the Borough Loch to supply
the brewers of the Society. The Incorporation of Brewers has long been dissolved, and
the Borough Loch now forms the rich pasturage and the shady walks of the Meadows ;
while along its once marshy margin has since been built Buccleuch Place, where the
exclusive faRhionable5 of the southern district long maintained their own ball-room and
assemblies.
The impossibility of converting this pendicle of the Borough Nuir to any useful purpose
as private property, while it continued in its original state as a Loch, fortunately
prevented its alienation, while nearly every other portion of the valuable tract of land that
once belonged to the borough passed into private hands. At the western extremity of
the Borough Muir, the venerable tower of Merchiston still stands entire, the birth-place
of John Napier, the inventor of the Logarithms, to whom, according to Hume, the title
of a great man is more justly due than to any other whom his country ever produced.
The ancestors of the great Scottish philosopher were intimately connected with Edinburgh.
The three first Napiers of Nerchiston successively filled the office of provost in
the reigns of James 11. and III., and other connections of the family rose to the same
civic dignity. Their illustrious descendant was born at Merchiston Castle in the year
1550, on the eve of memorable changes whereof even the reserved and modest student
had to bear his share. The old fortalice of Merchiston, reared at an easy distance from
the Scottish capital, lay in the very field of strife. Round its walls the Douglas wars raged
for years, and the most striking incidents of the philosopher’s early life intermingle with
the carnage of that merciless feud. On the 2d of April 1572, he was betrothed to Elizabeth,
daughter of Sir James Stirling of Keir, and on the 5th of the following month,
“ The cumpany of Edinburgh pad furth and seigit Merchingstoun ; quha wan all the
pairtis thairof except the dungeoun, in the quhilk wes certane suddartis in Leith; the
hail1 houssis wes spoulzeit and brunt, to haue amokit the men of the dungeoun out ; but
the cuntrie seand the fyre, raise with the pover of Leith and put the men of Edinburgh
thairfra without slauchter, bot syndrie hurt.” The keep of Merchiston formed, indeed, the
key of the south approach to the capital, so that whoever triumphed it became the butt of
their opponents’ enmity. It lay near enough to be bombarded from the Castle walls by
Sir William Kirkaldy, though a cousin of its owner, because ~omoef the king’s men held
it for a time, and intercepted the provisions coming to the town. Again and again were the
1 Diurnal of Occurrents, p. 295. ......

Book 10  p. 381
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I22 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
well's time, and, to all appearance, coeval with the battery, but its commanding .position
and extensive view are not unlikely to have arrested his notice. Considerable portions of
the western fortifications, the parapet wall, and port holes of the half-moon battery, and
the ornamental coping and embrazures of the north and east batteries, as well as the
house now occupied by the barrack sergeant, are of a much later date. The building last
mentioned, situated immediately to the north of the grand parade, bears a close resemblance
in its general style to the Darien House, erected in 1698, and the whole may,
with every probability, be referred to nearly the same period, towards the close of William
III.'s reign.
Very considerable alterations have been made from time to time on the approach to the
fortress from the town. The present broad esplanade was formed chiefly with the rubbish
removed from the site of the Royal Exchange, the foundation of which was laid in 1753.
In the very accurate view of the Castle furnished by Maitland, from a drawing by T.
Sandby, which represents it previous to this date, there is only a narrow roadway,
evidently of artificial construction, raised nearly to the present level, which may probably
have been made on the destruction of the Spur, an ancient battery that occupied a
considerable part of the Castle Hill, until it was demolished by order of the Estates of
Parliament, August 2, 1649.l The previous elevation of the ground had evidently been
no higher than the bottom of the present dry ditch. The curious bird's-eye view of the
Castle, taken in 1573 (a fa-simile of which is given in the 2nd volume of the Bannatyne
Miscellany), and all the earlier maps of Edinburgh, represent the Castle as rising abruptly
on the east side, and in that of 1575, from which we have copied a view of the Castle,' the
entrance appears to be by a long flight of steps. It may perhaps be considered as a
confirmation of this, that: in the representations of the fortress, as borne in the arms of
the burgh, a similar mode of approach is generally shown.'
. Immediately within the drawbridge, there formerly stood an ancient and highly ornamental
gateway, near the barrier guard-room. It was adorned with pilasters, and very
rich mouldings carried over the arch, and surmounted with a remarkably curious piece of
sculpture, in basso relievo, set in an oblong panel, containing a representation of the
famous cannon, Mons Meg, with groups of ancient artillery and military weapons. This
fine old port was only demolished in the beginning of the present century, owing to its
being found too narrow to give admission to modern carriages and waggons, when the
preseut plain and inelegant gateway was erected on its site. Part of the curious carving
alluded to has since been placed over the entrance to the Ordnance Office in the Castle,
and the remaining portion is now preserved in the Antiquarian Museum.'
Immediately to the west of this, another ancient ornamented gateway still exists.
Bannatyne Misc., vul. ii. p. 398. dnte, p. 8. ' In the survey of the Caatle, taken for Sir William Drury in 1572, the following detlcription occurs :-" On the fore
parte eatwarde, next the towne, standa like iiij= foote of the hanle, and next unto the same stands Davyes Towre, and
from it a courten, with vj cannons, in loopea of atone, lookingein the atreatwarde ; and behynd thesamestandes another
teare of ordinance, lyke xvj foote clym above the other ; and at the northe ende standa the Couatablea Towre; and in
the bottom of the 8am0, is the way into the Caatle, with XI" steppes." The number of the atepps is in another hand, the
YS. being partially injured.-Bann. Misc., vol. L p. 69.
They were preserved, and placed in their present situations through the
good taate of R. M'Kerlie+ Esq., of the Ordnance Office, to whose recollections of the old gateway, when an officer in
tbe garrison in 1800, we are mainly indebted for the ahove description.
+ Vide pp. 1 and 6, for views of these stones. ......

Book 10  p. 133
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286 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
oup north,” Sir William Alexander, afterwards Earl of Stirling. His tragedies, however,
are dramatic only in title, and not at all adapted for the stage. James VI. endeavoured
to mediate between the clergy and the encouragers of the drama, and, by his royal
authority, stayed for a time their censure of theatrical representations. In the year 1592,
a company of English players was licenced by the King to perform in Edinburgh, against
which an act of the Kirk-sessions was forthwith published, prohibiting the people to resort
to such profane amusements.2 The King appears to have heartily espoused the cause of
the players a few years later, as various entries in the treasury accounts attest, e.g. :-
“ Oct. 1599.-Item, Delyuerit to his hienes selff to be gevin to ye Inglis commeidianis
X;i crownes of ye sone, at iijli. ijs. viijd. ye pece. Nov.-Item. Be his lUabes directioun
gevin to Sr George Elphingstoun, to be delyuerit to ye Inglis commedians, to by timber
for ye preparatioun of ane hous to thair pastyme, as the said S‘ George ticket beiris, xl.
l i ; ” and again a sum is paid to a royal messenger for notifying at the Cross, with sound
of trumpet, “his Mat‘= plesour to all his lieges, that ye saidis commedianis mycht vse
thair playis in E@,” &c. In the year 1601, an English company of players visited
Scotland, and appeared publicly at Aberdeen, headed by “ Laurence Fletcher, comediane
to his Majestie.” The freedom of that burgh was conferred on him at the same time that
it was bestowed on sundry French knights and other distinguished strangers, in whose
train the players had arrived. Mr Charles Knight, in his ingenious life of Shakspeare,
rshows that this is the same player whose name occurs along with that of the great
English dramatist, in the patent granted by James VI,, immediately after his arrival in
the southern capital in 1603, in favour of the company at the Globe ; and from thence he
draws the conclusion that Shakspeare himself visited Scotland at this period, and sketched
out the plan of his great Scottish tragedy amid the scenes of its historic events. By the
same course of iuference, Shakspeare’s name is associated with the ancient Tennis Court
at the Water Gate, as it cannot be doubted that his Majesty’s players made their appearance
at the capital, and before the Court of Holyrood, either in going to or returning
from the northern burgh, whither they had proceeded by the King’s special orders ; but it
must be confessed the argument is a very slender one to form the sole basis for such a
conclusion.
The civil wars in the reign of Charles I., and the striking changes that they led to,
obliterated all traces of theatrical representations, until their reappearance soon after the
Restoration. One curious exhibition, however, is mentioned in the interval, which may be
considered as a substitute for these forbidden displays. “ At this tyme,” says Nicoll, in
1659, ‘ I thair wes brocht to this natioun ane heigh great beast, callit ane Drummodrary,
quhilk being keipit clos in the Cannogate, nane haid a sight of it without thrie pence the
persone, quhilk producit much gape to the keipar, in respect of the great numberis of
pepill that resoirtit to it, for the sight thairof. It wes very big, and of great height, and
clovin futted lyke unto a kow, and on the bak ane saitt, as it were a sadill, to sit on.
Thair wes brocht in with it ane liytill baboun, faced lyke unto a naip.”
Drummond of Hawthornden’a Letters, Archzeol. Scot. vol. iv. p. 83. ’ ‘‘ Nov. 1599.-Item, to Wm. Forsf, measenger, paasand with lettrea to the mercat crow of Eam, chairging ye
elderia and deacouna of the haill four aeasionia of Ed“. to annull thair act maid for ye diacharge of certane Iuglis commedianis,
L a., viiij. d.”-Treasurers’ accounts. 8 Nicoll’a Diary, p. 226. ......

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44 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
champions ; and the verity which was found, was, that they dared both to fight in close
arms ! ” -
In the month of June 1538, the new Queen, Mary of Guise, destined to enact so prominent
a part in the future history both of the city and kingdom, was welcomed home
with costly gifts and every show of welcome, and ‘‘ on Sanct Margarete’s day thairafter,
sho maid her entres in Edinburgh, with greit trivmphe, and als with ordour of the hail1
nobillis; hir Grace come in first, at the West Port, and raid doun the hie gait to the
Abbay of Halyrudhous, with greit sportis playit to hir Grace throw all the pairtis of the
toun.” a Pitscottie adds, that the Queine was richlie rewairdit and propyned by the proveist
and tounschip, both with gold and spyces, wynes, and curious playes made to her by
the said tom;”!’ and, indeed, such was the zeal of the good town to testify its gratulations
on the King’s speedy escape from widowhood, that we find, shortly after, “ the city cash
had run so low, as to render it necessary for the council to mortgage the northern vault of
the Nether Bow Port, for the sum of 100 mcrks Scots, to repair the said port or gate
withal.” From this state of exhaustion, they do not seem to have again recovered during
the King’s lifetime, as in 1511, the year before his death, they had to borrow from him
100 merks Scots, to put the park walls of Holyrood in repair,-a duty that seems to have
been somewhat unreasonably imposed on the town.
In the year 1539, Sir David Lindsay’s Sutyre of the Thrie Estaitis, the earliest Scottish
drama, if we except the Religious Mysteries, that we have any account of, was represented
for the first time at Linlithgow, at ‘‘ the feaste of the epiphane,” in presence of the Court.
At a later date, it was “ playit beside Edinburgh, in presence of the Queen Regent, and
ane greit part of the nobilitie, with ane exceiding greit nowmber of pepill; lestand fra
n p e houris afore none, till six houris at euin,”-an extent of patience in the listeners that
implies no slight degree of entertainment.
The extreme freedom with which the Pardoner, and others of the dramatis persow,
treat of the clergy, and the alleged corruptions of the Church, may excite our surprise that
this satire should have obtained, thus early, RO willing an audience. Dr Irving has inferred
from this, that the King was better inclined to a reformation than is generally supposed,’
but the more probable explanation is to be sought for in the favour of the author at Court.
Not long after, Killor, a blackfriar, constructing a drama on the Passion of Christ, which
was performed before the King on Good Friday morniug, and wherein the author indulged
in the same freedom, he was condemned to the flames.
In the seventh Parliament of this reign, held at Edinburgh, in March 1540, a curious
and interesting Act was passed ‘( %itching the bigging of Leith Wynde,” wherein ‘‘ it is
ordained that the Provost, Baillies, and Council of Edinburgh, warne all manner of persones
that hes ony landes, biginges, and waistes, upon the west side of Leith Wynde,
that they within zeir and day, big and repaire, honestlie, their said waistes and ruinous
houses, and gif not, it sal1 be leifful to the saidis Proveste and Baillies to cast down the
said waiste landes, and with the stuffe and stanes thereof, bigge ane honest substantious
wall, fra the Porte of the Nether Bow, to the Trinitie College. And because the easte side
of the saide Wynde perteines to the abbot and convente of Halyrude-house, it is
’ Hawthornden, p. 105. a Diurnal of Occurrent; p. 22. 8 Pitecottie, vol. ii. p. 378. ‘ Disaertation on the early Scottish Drama. Lives of Scot. Poets, vol. i. p. 209. ......

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3 20 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
below renders it probable that the Episcopal residence in the ckpital, thus permanently
attached to the See of Dunkeld, was the lodging on the south side of the Cowgate; and
the same ecclesiastical biographer already referred to mentions as one of the good works
of Bishop Brown, the predecessor of Douglas, that he built the south wing of the house
at Edinburgh belonging to the Bishops of Dunkeld.’ It cannot be doubted that the
mansion thus gifted and enlarged was a building well suited by its magnificence for the
abode of the successive dignitaries of the Church who were promoted to that exalted
station, and that it formed another striking feature in this street of palaces. Its vicinity
both to the Archiepiscopal residence and to the Blackfriars’ Church-the later scene of
rescue of Archbishop Beaton by Gawin Douglas-affords a very satisfactory illustration
of one of the most memorable occurrences during the turbulent minority of James V.
The poet, after his ineffectual attempt at mediation, retired with grief to his own
house, and employed himself in acts of devotion suited to the danger to which his friends
were exposed; from thence he rushed out, on learning of the termination of the fray,
in time to interpose effectually on behalf of the warlike priest, who had been personally
engaged in the contest, and, according to Buchanan, “flew about in armour like a firebrand
of sedition.” This old Episcopal residence has other associations of a very
dXerent nature; for we learn from Knox’s history that, when he was summoned to
appear in the Blackfriars’ Church on the 15th of May 1556, and his opponents deserted
their intended attack through fear, “ the said Johne, the same day of the summondis,
tawght in Edinburgh in a peattar audience then ever befoir he had done in that toune :
The place was the Bischope of Dunkellis, his great loodgeing, whare he continewed
in doctrin ten dayis, boyth befoir and after nune.”a A modern land now occupies
the site of Bishop Douglas’s Palace; and the pleasure grounds wherein the poet
was wont to stray, and on which we may suppose him to have exercised his refined
taste and luxurious fancy in realizing such a 46 gardyne of plesance ” as he describes
in the opening stanzas of his Pallis of Honor, is now crowded with mean dwellings
of the artizan and labourer-too much engrossed with the cares of their own
domestic circle to heed the illustrious memories that linger about these lowly habitations.
The range of buildings extending from the Cowgate Port to the Old High School Wynd,
on the south side of the street, still includes several exceedingly picturesque timber-fronted
tenements of an early date ; but none of them possess those characteristics of former magnificence
which were to be seen in the Mint Close. A finely. carved lintel, which surmounted
the doorway of one of a similar range of antique.tenements to the west of the High School
Wpd, has been replaced over the entrance to the modern building, erected on the same
site in 1801. The inscription, of which we furnish a sketch, is boldly cut in an unusual
lain in St Geiles Kirk in Edinburgh, of au annual rent of 6 merks out of the tenement of Donald de Keyle on the N.
nide of the gaite . . . au annual rent. of 40 sh. out of his own house lyand in the Cowgaite, betwixt the land of the
Abbot of Melroa on the east, and of George Cochran on the west,” &c.-23d Jan. 1449 ; MS. Advoc. Lib. “A mortification
made by James [Livingston] Bishop of Dunkeld, to a chaplain of St Martin and Thomas’s Altar, in St Geiles Kirk
of Edinburgh, of an annual rent of E10 out of his tenement lying in the said burgh, on the north side of the Hie
Street,” &.-Ibid. “Confirmation of a charter granted be Thomas [Lauder] Bishop of Dunkeld, to a chaplain of the
Holy Cross Isle, in St Geiles Kirk in Edinburgh,” of divers annual rents, dated 17th March 1480.-Ibid.
.
Vitae Dunkeld. Episc. p. 46. f Knox’s W-orks, Wodrow Soc., vol. i p. 251. ......

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242 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
The mansion of the Earl in the Old Stamp Office Close was celebrated at a subsequent
period as Fortune’s tavern, a favourite resort of men of rank and fashion, while yet some of
the nobles of Scotland dwelt in its old capital. At a still later period, it was the scene of
the annual festivities during the Hittings of the General Assembly of the Kirk, towards the
close of last century. The old Zarl of Leven, who was for many years the representative
of majesty at the High Court of the Church, annually took up his abode at this fashionable
tavern, and received in state the courtiers who crowded to his splendid levees.’ Still more
strangely does it contrast with modern notions, to learn that the celebrated Henry Dundas,
first Viscount Melville, began practice as an advocate while residing on the third flat of the
old land a little further down the street, at the head of the Flesh Market Close, and continued
to occupy his exalted dwelling for a considerable time. Below this close, we again
come to works of more modern date. Milne Square, which bears the date 1689, exhibits
one of the Old Town improvements before its contented citizens dreamt of bursting their
ancient fetters, and rearing a new city beyond the banks of the North Loch. To the
east of this, the first step in that great undertaking demolished some of the old lanes
of the High Street, and among the rest the Cap and Feather Close, a short alley which
stood immediately above Halkerston’s Wynd. The lands that formed the east side of this
close still remain in North Bridge Street, presenting doubtless, to the eye of every tasteful
reformer, offensive blemishes in the modern thoroughfare ; yet this unpicturesque locality
has peculiar claims on the interest of every lover of Scottish poetry, for here, on the 5th
of September 1750, the gifted child of genius, Robert Ferpson, was born. The precise
site of his father’s dwelling is unknown, but now that it has been transformed by the indiscriminating
hands of modern improvers, this description may sufice to suggest to some as
they pass along that crowded thoroughfare such thoughts as the dwellers in cities are most
careless to encourage.’
Availing ourselves of the subdivision of the present subject, effected by the improvements
to which we have adverted, we shall retrace our steps, and glance at such associations
with the olden time as may still be gathered from the scene of the desolating fires that
swept away nearly every ancient feature on the south side of the High Street. Within
the last few years, the sole survivor of all the antique buildings that once reared their
picturesque and lofty fronts between the Lawnmarket and Niddry’s Wynd has been demolished,
to make way for the new Police Office. It had strangely withstood the terrible
conflagration that raged around it in 1824, and, with the curious propensity that still prevails
in Edinburgh for inventing suggestive and appropriate names, it was latterly universally
known as “ the Salamander Land.” ’ Through this a large archway led into the Old
Fish Market Close, on the west side of which, previous to the Great Fire, the huge pile
of buildings in the Parliament Close reared its southern front high over all the neigh-
In 1812 an unwonted spectacle waa exhibited at the head of the Old Stamp Office .Close, in the execution of three
young la& there, as the leadera in a riot that took place un New Year’s Day of that year, in which several citizens were
killed and numerous robberies committed. The judges fixed upon this spot, as having been the scene of the chief bloodshed
that had occurred, in order to mark more impressively the detestation of their crimes. A small work was published
by the Rev. W. Innes, entitled “ Notes of Conversations ’’ with the criminals. ’ In Edgar’s map, the close is shown extending no farther than in a line with Milne’s Court, so that the whole of the
east side etill remains, including, it may be, the poet’s birthplace. ’ We have been told that this land was aaid to have been the residence of Defoe while in Edinburgh ; the tradition,
however, ia entirely unaupported by other testimony. ......

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178 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
I., who hoped thereby to gain him over from the Presbyterians. In this, however, the
King was completely disappointed. At the period of his acquiring Gourlay’s house, he was
actively engaged in organising the national resistance of the liturgy, and in framing the
Covenant, which was subscribed in the following year by nearly the whole of Scotland.
He appears, from his Diary,’ to have taken a minute and affectionate interest in all that
concerned the members of his numerous family, long after they had left the parental roof.
The ancient mansion seems to have been purchased for his son, Sir Thomas, who, with his
elder brother, Sir John Hope of Craighall, both sat on the bench while their father was
Lord Advocate ; and it being judged by the Court of Session unbecoming that a father
should plead uncovered before his children, the privilege of wearing his hat while pleading
was granted to him, and we believe still belongs to his successors in the office of King’s
Advocate, though fallen into disuse.
From Sir Thomas Hope the upper part of the old mansion was purchased by Hugh
Blair, merchant in Edinburgh, and grandfather, we believe, of the eminent divine that bore
his name. From him it came into the possession of Lord Aberuchill, a Senator of the
College of Justice ; and various other persons of rank and note in their day occupied the
ancient dwelling ere it passed to the plebeian tenantry of modern times.
The most interesting of its latter occupants was the celebrated lawyer Sir George Lockhart,
the great rival of Sir George Mackenzie, appointed, in the year 1658, Advocate to
the Protector during life, and nominated Lord President of the Court of Session in 1685.
He continued at the head of the Court till the Revolution, and would undoubtedly have
been reappointed to the office, had he not fallen a victim to private revenge. Chiesly of
Dalry, an usuccessful litigant, exasperated, as it appeared, by a decree of the Lord President
awarding an aliment of 1700 merks, or g93 sterling, out of his estate, in favour of
his wife and ten children, conceived the most deadly hatred against him, and openly declared
his resolution to be revenged. On Sir James Stewart, advocate, seeking to divert him from
the purpose he avowed, he fiercely replied,--“ Let God and me alone ; we have many things
to reckon betwixt us, and we will reckon this too ! ” The Lord President was warned of
Chiesly’s threats, but unfortunately despised them. The assassin loaded his pistols on the
morning of Easter Sunday, the 31st March 1689; he went to the New Kirk,-as the
choir of St Giles’s Church was then styled,-and having dogged the President home from
the church, he shot him in the back as he was entering the Old Bank Close, where he
resided. Lady Lockhart,-the aunt of the witty Duke of Wharton,-was lying ill in bed.
Alarmed at the report of the pistol, she sprang up, and on lea,rning of her husband’s
murder rushed out into the close in her night-dress, and assisted in raising him from the
ground. The assassin, on being told that his victim had expired immediately on being
carried into the house, coolly replied,--“ He was not used to do things by halves.”
The murderer being taken red-Band, and the crime having been committed within the city,
he was brought to trial on the following day before Sir Magnus Prince, the Lord Provost,
as High Sheriff of the city. Although he made no attempt to deny the crime, he was put
.
1 The following entry appeara in his Diary, “ 7 January 1641, Payit to David cfourlay, Jc merks, quhilk he afimit
to be awio to him of the pryce off his tenement sauld to my son Sir Thomas, and thin gevin be him to his sone Thornam
Gourlay quhen he waa going furth off the country.” On 25th December 1644, is the brief entry, “Good David
Gourlay departit at his hous in Prestounpannis, about 8 hours of nycht.”-Hope’s Diary, Bann. Club, pp. 123,
210. ......

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224 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
quhill ane hour efter dinner ; and the saidis dyvoris, before thair libertie and cuming furth
of the tolbuith, upon thair awn chairges, to cause mak and buy ane hat or bonne‘t of yellow
colour, to be worn be thame all the tyme of their sitting on the said pillery, and in all tyme
thairefter, swa lang as they remane and abide dyvoris.”l Sundry modifications of this
singular act were afterwards adopted. In 1669 ‘‘ The Lords declare that the habite is to
be a coat and upper garment, which is to cover their cloaths, body and arms, whereof, the
one half is to be of yellow, and the other half of a brown colour, and a cap or hood, which
they are to wear on their head, party coloured, as said is,” a coloured, as is enacted at a
subsequent period, “conform to a pattern delivered to the magistrates of Edinburgh to
be keeped in their Tolbooth.” The effect of such a custom, if revived in our day, amid
the bustle and fever of railway schemes, and ‘‘ bubble speculations” of all kinds, could
not fail to exercise a very pleasing influence in diversifying the monotony of our unpicturesque
modern attire, and giving some variety to our assemblies and promenades ! How
far commercial solvency would be promoted by the frequenters of the Stock Exchange being
thus compelled to wear their credit on their sleeve, we must leave these shrewd speculators
to determine at their leisure. Cowper, in his ‘‘ Epistle to Joseph Hill, Esq.,” discusses a
somewhat analogous device, adopted by an Eastern sage, for distinguishing hone& men from
knaves, and which consisted in the convicted defaulter wearing only half a coat thereafter ;
but he adds for the comfort of all contemporaries :-
0 happy Britain ! we have not to fear
Such hard and arbitrary measures here ;
Else could a law, like that which I relate,
Once have the sanction of our triple state,
Some few, that I have known in days of old,
Would run most dreadful risk of catching cold !
In the steep and narrow closes that diverge on each side of the High Street, were once
the dwellings of the old Scottish nobility, and still they retain interesting traces of faded
grandeur, awaking many curious associations which well repay the investigator of their intricate
purlieus. Dunbar’s Close, of which we furnish a view, has already been mentioned
as the place pointed out by early tradition where Cromwell’s ‘( Ironsides ” were lodged,
and its whole appearance is both unique and singularly picturesque. Over the entrance to
the Rose and Thistle Tap,-the traditional guard-room of the victors of Dunbar,-there is
a beautifully carved inscription, bearing one of the oldest dates now left on any private
building in Edinburgh. The stone is rebuilt into a new portion of the house, but is still
nearly as sharp as when fresh from the chisel ; the inscription is :-
FAITH * IN - GRIST a ONLIE a SAVIT * 1567.
1 Acts of Sederunt, 17th May 1606.
4 The following Act of Sederunt, for 13th December 1785, describes the latest version of the Edinburgh Cross,
if we except the radiated pavement that marks its site :-“ The Lords having considered the representation of the Lord
Provost and Magistrates of the city of Edinburgh, setting forth, that when the Cross was taken away in the year 1756,
a stone was erected on the side of a well on the High Street, adjacent to the place where the Cross atood, which,
by Act of Sederunt, was declared to be the Market Cross of Edinburgh from that period. That since removing the
city guard, the aforesaid well was a great obstruction to the free passage upon the High Street, which therefore they
intended to remove, and instead thereof to erect a stone pillar, a few feet distant from the said well, on the same side
of the High Street, opposite to the head of the Old Assembly Close. Of which the Lords approve, and declare
the new pillar to be the Market Cross.” We suppose the more economical marking of the pavement was the only
result.
Ibid, 26th February 1669. Ibid, 18th July 1688. ......

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314 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
sovereign, James V.’ They were to enter the palace by a window at the head of the
King’s bed, which was pointed out by Sir James Hamilton, one of their accomplices, who
used to be the King’s bedfellow, according to the homely fashion of the times. The
energetic measures which were adopted on the discovery of this plot greatly tended to
secure the peace and good government of the capital.
At the foot of the Pleasance was the Cowgate Port, one of the principal gates of the
city, which afforded access to the ancient street from whence it derived its name. Alexander
Alesse, a canon of St Andrew’s, who left Scotland in 1532 to escape the persecutim
to which he was exposed in consequence of adopting the principles of the early Reformers,
describes the Cowgate thus :-&‘ Infiniti viculi, qui omnes excelsis sunt ornati sdibus, &ut
et Via Vaccarum; in qua habitant patricii et senatores urbis, et in qua sunt principum
regni palatia, ubi nihil est humile aut rusticum, sed omnia magnifica.” Mean and
degraded as this ancient thoroughfare now is, there are not wanting traces of those palmy
days when the nobles and senators of the capital had there their palaces, whose magnificence
excited>he admiration of strangers, though now its name has almost passed into a
byeword. A little to the westward, beyond a slight but picturesque old fabric which
forms the north side of the Cowgate Port, the large old gateway remains which gave
access to the extensive pleasure grounds attached to the Marquis of Tweeddale’s residence.
In Edgar’s map, this garden ground appears rising in a succession of terraces towards the
noble residence, and thickly planted in parts with trees ; nevertheless, the whole area
had been covered at an earlier period with the crowded dwellings of the ancient capital, as
appears from Gordon’s view of 1647 ; and now the noble gardens are anew giving place
to rude masonry. The Cowgate Chapel occupies one large portion, and manufactories,
with meaner buildings, hem it in on nearly every side. Towards the west, at the foot of
Gray’s Close, is Elphinstone’s Court, already described, and beyond it the Mint Court
still stands, with its sombre and massive turret of polished ashlar work protruding into
the narrow thoroughfare of the Cowgate.
The venerable quadrangle of the Scottish Mint is formed by an irregular assemblage of
buildings of various ages and styles, yet most of them still retaining some traces of the
important operations once carried on within their walls. The Mint House was on the west
side of the Abbey Close at Holyrood Palace, in the earlier part of Queen Mary’s reign,
as appears from evidence previously quoted. From thence it was removed for greater
safety to the new Mint House, erected in the Castle in 1559;’ and although, during the
troubled period that followed soon after, the chief coining operations were carried on at
Dalkeith and elsewhere, Sir William Kirkaldy still made use of “ the cunzie hous in the
Castle of Edinburgh, quilk cunzet the auld cunzie of the Queen.”s No other Mint House
was permanently established in Edinburgh until the almost total destruction of the buildings
in the Castle during the memorable siege of 1572. The date over the main entrance
to the most ancient portion of buildings in the Cowgate, at the foot of Toddrick’s Wynd,
1 Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 615. ’ In the Treasurers’ accounta, the following entry occura : February 1562-3 :-“Item, allowit to the Comptar, be
payment maid be Johne Achesouo, Maist2r Cwnaeour, to Yaister William M‘Dowgale, Maister of Werk, for expensia
maid be him vpon the bigging of the Cwnze-hous, within the Castell of Edinburgh, and beting of the Cwnze-how within
the Palace of Halierudhouse, fra the xi day of Februar 1559 zeris, to the 21 of April 1560, 2460, 4s. Id.”
J Diurnal of Occurrenta, p. 291. ......

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426 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
able from the introduction of the Weigh-house steeple, demolished by Cromwell in 1650, and the spire of the
Tron Church, which was completed about 1663, although the church was so far advanced in 1647 as to be used
as a place of worship. The destruction of the greater part of the ancient Palace in the former year, affords
further evidence of this view having been taken about that period, BS it is represented with considerable accuracy
as it stood previous to the fire. The north garden is laid out in the formal style of the period, with Quem Murys
Bath very accurately introduced in the angle formed by two of the enclosing garden walls. It appears to have
been engraved in Holland, and is illustrated with a stanza in Latin, Dutch, and French, consisting of a very selfcomplacent
soliloquy of the good town on its own ancient glory, A lithographic copy of this view is occasionally
to be met with.
He visited this
country for the first time in 1 6 6 9 ,t~ha t the drawings of the interesting series of Scottish views published by him
mwt have been made during the interval between these dates. They are of great value, being in general rery
faithful representations of the chief towns and most important edsces in Scotland at that period. Much curious
information in reference to the progress of this national work has been selected from the records in the General
Register House, and printed in the 2d voL of the Bannatyne Ivfiscellany. Among these, the following item of
the Captain’s account of ‘‘ Debursements” afford some insight into the mode of getting up the views :-
1693.-The TEEATRUMSC OTE, of Captain John Slezer, was printed at London in 1693.
.
IMPRIMFIoSr. b ringing over a Painter, his charges to travel from place to place, and for
drawing these 57 draughts contahed in the said Theatrum Scotiae, at 2
lib, sterlin per draught, . . 0114: 00 :OO
To Mr Whyte at London, for ingraving the mid 57 draughts, at 4 lib. 10
To Nr Wycke, the battell painter at London, for touching and filling up the
said 57 draughb with little figures, at 10 shillings sterlin per piece, inde,
Captain Slezer hath been at a considerable loss by 12 plates of prospects,which
were spoiled in Holland, as partly appears by a contract betwixt Doctor
Sibbald and the said Captain, dated anno 1691, which loss was at least
Lib. Sterlin.
ITEM,
ITEM,
ITEM,
shillings over head, . . 0256 : 10 :00
0028 : 10 : 00
0072 : 10 : 00
In the early edition of Sle7,r‘s views the only general Pvoapect of Edinburgh is the one from the Dean. But
the view of the Castle from the south also includes some interesting portions of the Old Town, and to these
another view of the Castle from the north-east was afterwards added. Four different editions of the Theatnun
Scotia are described in Cough’s British Topography, and a fifth edition of 100 copies was published at Edinburgh
in 1814, edited by the Rev. Dr Jamieson, with a life of Slezer, and other additional matter, and illustrated
with impressions from the original plates, which are still in existence. The work is to be met with in most public
libraries, and affords some curious views of the chief towns of Scotland, as they existed in the latter end of the
seveuteenth century.
1700.-About this date is a large and very accurate view of Edinburgh from the north, which has been
engraved more than once. The original plate, which appeared first in the third edition of Slezer’s Theatrum
Scotiae, dedicated to the Marquis of Annandale, was published in 1718. It is a long view, with the Cdton
Hill forming the foreground, beyond which Trinity College Church and Paul’s Work appear on one side,
with the North Loch stretching away towards the Well-house Tower. The large ancient church of the Castle,
as well aa St Margaret’s Chapel, form prominent objects in the Castle ; while in the town the Nether Bow Port,
the old High School, demolished in 1777, and others of the ancient features of the city, are introduced with considerable
care and accuracy of detail. The whole is engraved with great spirit, but no draftsman’s or engraver’s
name is attached to it. Another copy of the same, on a still larger scale, though of inferior merit as an en,oraving.
is dedicated to Queen Anne. ......

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400 MEMORIALS OF EDIILBURGH.
and the well has to be sought for within the recesses of a dark and unsightly drain,
grudgingly constructed by the Railway Directors after an interdict had arrested them in
the process of demolishing the ancient Gothic building, and stopping the fountain, whose
miraculous waters-once the resort of numerous pilgrims-seem to find a few, even in our
own day, who manifest the same faith in their healing virtues.'
Most of the smaller convents and chapels within the capital have already been treated
of along with the other features of their ancient localities. One, however, still remains to
be noticed, not the least value of which is, that it still exists entire, and with some unusually
rare relics of its original decorations. In early times there existed in the Cowgate, a little
to the east of the old monastery of the Grey Friars, an ancient Maison Dim, as it was
styled, which, having fallen into decay, was refounded in the reign of James V., chiefly by
the contributions of Michael Macquhen, a wealthy citizen of Edinburbh, and afterwards of
his widow, Janet Rynd. The hospital and chapel were dedicated to St Mary Magdalene,
an& by the will of the foundress were left in trust to the Corporation of Hammermen, by
whom the latter is now used as a hall for their own meetings. The foundation was subsequently
augmented by two several donations from Hugh Lord Somerville in 1541 ; and
though the building doubtless shared in the general ruin that swept over the capital in
1544, they must have been very speedily repaired, as the windows are still adorned with
the ancient painted glass, containing the royal arms of Scotland encircled with a wreath
of thistles, and those of the Queen Regent, Mary of Guise, within a laurel wreath, along
with the shields of the founder and foundress also enclosed in ornamental borders. One
other fragment, a Saint Bartholomew, has strangely escaped the general massacre of 1559,
that involved the destruction of all the other apostles. The workmanship of the latter
is decidedly inferior to that of the heraldic emblazonry-its hues have evidently faded ;
while the deep ruby and bright yellow of the royal arms still exhibit the unrivalled
brilliancy of the old glass-painters' work. These fragments of ancient painted glass possess
a peculiar value, as scarcely another specimen of the Art in Scotland has escaped the
destructive fury of the reforming mobs. Another unusual, though not equally rare feature,
is the tomb of the foundress, which remains at the east end of the chapel, with the inscription
round its border in ancient Gothic characters :-
I e i r IpiB ane tonora5il woman, %net Mipnb, pe
SPOUof~ u mqubiI ACiicel maTiqu-ben, 5urM
of %b. founbrr of pip place, anb berePPit pe
iiii bap of Them'. W. bno. m'. V. blp.'
The centre of the stone is occupied with the arms of the founders, husband and wife, impaled
on one shield. This sculptured slab is now level with a platform which occupies the
1 Lectures on the Antiquities of Edinburgh, by a Member of the Holy Guild of St Joseph. * The date assigned by Pennecuick for the death of the foundress is 1553 ; but this seems to be a mistake. She speaks
in the charter of her husband having resolved on this Christian work wheu ' I greatly troubled with a heavy disease, and
oppwsed with age," and as his endowment is dated 1503, this would make his widow survive him exactly half a century.
The date on the tomb ia di5cult to decipher, being much worn, but it appears to be 1507. The deed executed by her
is said to be dated so late as 1545, but the original is lost, and only a partial transcript exists among the recorda of the
Corporation of Hammermen. If such be the correct date, it is strange that no notice should be taken of the burning of
the town by the English the previous year, although the deed refers to property lying in the Eigh Street, and in various
closes and wynds, which must then have been in ruins, or just rising from their ashes. The deed of 1545 is possibly an
abstract of previous ones,including those of Lord Somerville, aa it specifies his barony of Carnwath Yiln, without
naming him.
Part iv. p. 126. ......

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296 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
its quaint old lions, in which the Unionists are said to have been scared while signing
some of their preliminary treaties, is still there. The upper terrace is shaded by a magnificent
thorn tree, which appears to be much older than the house; on the second, a
curious arbour has been constructed by the interlacing stems of trees, twisted into the
fantastic forms in which our ancestors delighted; and on the lowest terrace, a fine fountain
of clear water is guarded by the marble statue of a little fisher, with his basket at his feet,
5lled with the mimic spoils of the rod and line. The garden has a southern aspect, and
is of large dimensions, and both it and the house might still afford no unsuitable accommodation
to the proudest Earl in the Scottish Peerage.’
Directly opposite to the Old Tolbooth, and not far removed. from the stately mansion
of the Earls of Moray, is an antique fabric of a singularly picturesque character, associated
with the name of one of the adversaries of that noble house-George, first Marquis of
Huntly, who murdered the Bonny Earl of Moray in 1591.. The evidence, indeed, is not
complete which assigns this as the dwelling of the first marquis, but it is rendered exceedingly
probable from the fact that his residence was in the Canongate, and that this
fine old mansion was occupied at a later period by his descendants. In June 1636, he
was carried from his lodging in the Canongate, with the hope of reaching his northern
territories before his death, but he got no farther than Dundee, where he died in his
seventy-fourth year.8 The aame noble lodging was the abode of the unfortunate Marquis,
who succeeded to his father’s title, and perished on the block at the Cross of Edinburgh in
1649. Ten years before that, their old mansion in the Canongate was the scene of special
rejoicing and festivity, on the occasion of the marriage of his eldest daughter, Lady Ann
with the Lord Drummond, afterwards third Earl of Perth, who was ane preceise puritane,
and therfore weill lyked in Edinburgh.” * The house was occupied, when Maitland wrote,
by the Duchess-Dowager of Gordon; and through a misinterpretation of the evidence
given by some of the witnesses concerned in the murder of Darnley in 1567, he pronounces
it to have been the Mint Office of Scotland at that period. If the date on the building,
which is 1570, be that of its erection, it settles the question. But, at any rate, an examination
of the evidence referred to leaves no doubt that the Mint was situated at the period
entirely without the Canongate, and in the outer court of the Palace of Holyoood,’ though
this has uot prevented the historian being followed, as usual, without investigation by later
writers. We have engraved a view of this curious old mansion as it appears from the
Bakehouse Close. It presents an exceedingly picturesque row of timber-fronted gables
to the street, resting on a uniform range of ornamental corbels projecting from the stone
basement fitory. A series of sculptured tablets adorn the front of the building, containing
certain pious aphorisms, differing in style from those so frequently occurrikg on the buildings
of the sixteenth century. On one is inscribed :-“ CONSTANTPIE CTORI RES MOBTALIVM
Moray House was for aome time occupied by the British Linen Company’s Bank ; and, since 1847, has been used as
the Free Church Normal School, and the fine terraced gardens deacribed above transformed into a playgronnd for the
wholam. ’ Spaldmg’e History of the Troublea, vol. i p. 42. ’ Ibid, vol. i p. 177.
4 “Incontinent the Erle [Bothwell], French Paris, William Powry, semitar and porter to the eaid Erle, Pat. Wil-
~ouna, nd the deponar, geid down the turnpike altogidder, and endlong the back of the Queenis garden puhiZZ mo cum
to the Cunzie-Eow, and the back of the stabilk [seemingly what is now called the Howa Wynd], quhill eow cum to the
Cannongate foreanent the Abbey eet.”-Deposition of Cfeorge Dalgleiah ; Crim. Trials, Supp. p. 495. ......

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282 MEMORIALS OF ED?NBURGH.
Sir John Smith at length yielded to the exhortations of his friends, who urged him in
so dreadful an alternative to accept the ofFe, of the Moor: The fair invalid was borne on
a litter to the house near the head of the Canongate where he had taken up his abode,
and, to the astonishment and delight of her father, she was restored to him shortly afterwards
safe and well.
* The denouement of this singular story bears that the Moorish leader and physician
proved to be Andrew Gray, who, after being captured by pirates, and sold as a slave,‘
had won the favour of the Emperor of Morocco, and risen to rank and wealth in his
service. He had returned to Scotland, bent on revenging his own early wrongs on the
Magistrates of Edinburgh, when, to his Burprise, he found in the destined object of his
special vengeance, a relative of his own. He
married the Provost’s daughter, and settled down a wealthy citizen of the Burgh of
Canongate. The house to which his fair patient was borne, and whither he afterwards
brought her as his bride, is still adorned with an effigy of his royal patron, the Emperor
of Morocco; and the tenement has ever since borne the name of Morocco Land. It is
added that he had vowed never to enter the city but sword in hand; and having
abandoned all thoughts of revenge, he kept the vow till his death, having never again
passed the threshold of the Nether Bow Port. We only add, that we do not pretend to
guarantee this romantic legend of the Burgh; all we have done has been to put into a
consistent whole the different versions related to us. We have had the curiosity to
obtain a sight of the title-deeds of the property, which prove to be of recent date. The
earliest, a disposition of 1731, so far confirms the tale, that the proprietor at that date is
John Gray, merchant, a descendant, it may be, of the Algerine rover and the Provost’s
daughter. The figure of the Moor has ever been a subject of popular admiration and
wonder, and B variety of legends are told to account for its existence. Most of them,
however, though differing in almost every ot8her point, seem to agree in connecting it
with the last visitation of the plague.
A little to the eastward of MoroccQ Land, two ancient buildings of less dimensions in
every way than the more recent erections beside them, and the eastern one, more especially
of a singularly antique character, form striking features among the architectural elevations
in the street. The latter, indeed, is one of the most noticeable relics of the olden time
still remaining among the private dwellings of the burgh. It is described in the titles as
that tenement of land called Oliver’s Land, partly stone and partly timber ; and is one of
the very best specimens of this mixed style of building that now remains. The gables are
finished with the earlieit form of crowstep, considerably ornamented. A curiously moulded
dormer window, of an unusual form, rises into the roof; while, attached to the floor below,
The remainder of the tale is soon told.
* Numerous references will be found in the records of the seventeenth century to similar slavery among the Noors.
In “Selections from the Registers of the Presbytery of Lanark,’’ Abbotsford Club, 1839, is the following :-“27th Oct.
1625.-The quilk day ane letter ressavit from the Bishope for ane contributioun to be collectit for the releaff of some
folks of Queinsfarie and Kiogorne, deteinet under slaverie by the Turks at Salie.” Again, in the “Minutes of the
Synod of Fyfe,” printed for the same Club :-“2d April 1616, Anent the supplication proponed be Mr Williame
Wedderburne, minister at Dundee, making mentione, that whairas the Lordis of his Hienes’ Privie Counsel1 being certanelie
informed that Androw Robertaon, Johne Cowie, Johne Dauling, James Pratt, and their complices, marineris,
indwellaris in Leyth, being laitlie upon the coast of Barbarie, efter ane cruell and bloodie conflict, were overcome and
led into captivitie be certane merciless Turkes, who preuented them to open mercatt at Algiers in Barbarie, to be sawld
98 slaves to the crueu barbarians,” &c. ......

Book 10  p. 306
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228 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
worthy, faithfu’ Provost Dick,”-than ever was either the Bishop of Orkney, or my Lord
Holyroodhouse. Sir William Dick of Braid, an eminent merchant of Edinburgh, and
proyost of the city in the years 1638 and 1639, presents, in his strangely chequered history,
one of the most striking examples of the instability of fortune on record. He was reputed
the wealthiest man of his time in Scotland, and was generally believed by his contemporaries
to have discovered the philosophers’ stone I Being a zealous Covenanter, he advanced at
one time to the Scottish Convention of Estates, in the memorable year 1641, the sum of
one hundred thousand merks, to save them from the necessity of disbanding their army ;
and, in the following year, the customs were sett to him, “ for 202,000 merks, and 5000
merka of girsoum.’’e On the triumph of Cromwell and the Independents, however, his
horror of the Sectaries ” was greater even than his opposition to the Stuarts, and he
advanced %20,000 for the service of King Charles. By this step he provoked the wrath
of the successful party, while squandering his treasures on a failing cause. He wm
unsparingly subjected to the heaviest penalties, until his vast resources dwindled away in
vain attempts to satisfy the rapacity of legal extortion, and he died miserably in prison, at
Westminster, during the Protectorate, in want, it is said, of even the common necessaries of
life.a This romance of real life, was familiar to all during Sir Walter Scott’s early years,
and he has represented David Deans exultingly exclaiming :-“ Then folk might see men
deliver up their silver to the State’s use, as if it had been as muckle sclate stanes. My
father saw them toom the sacks of dollars out 0’ Provost Dick’s window, intill the carts
that carried them to the army at Dunse Law ; and if ye winna believe his testimony, there
is the window itsell still standing in the Luckenbooths,-at the airn stanchells, five doors
abune Advocate’s Close,”’ The old timber gable and the shnchelled window of this
Scottish Crcesus, have vanished, like his own dollars, beyond recall, but there is no doubt
that the modern and unattractive stone front, extending between Byres’ and Advocate’s
Closes only disguises the remarkable building to which such striking historical associations
belong. The titles include not only a disposition of the property to Sir William Dick
of Braid, but the appraising and disposition of it by his creditors after his death ; and its
situation is casually confirmed by a contemporary notice that indicates its importance at
the period. In the classification of the city into companies, by order of Charles I., the
third division extends “from Gladstone’s Land, down the northern side of the High
Street, to Sir William Dick’s Land.”6 The house was afterwards occupied by the Earl of
Kintore, an early patron of Allan Ramsay, whose name was given to a small court still
~ remaining behind the front building, although the public mode of access to it has disappeared
since the remodelling of the old timber land.
Archaeologia Scottica, vol. i. p. 336.
Sir Thomas Hope’s Diary, Bano. Club, p. 158.
These changes of fortune are commemorated in a folio pamphlet, entitled “ The lamentable state of the deceased
It contains several copperplates, one representing Sir William on horseback, and attended with
A second
The tract is greatly
Sir Walter Scott mentions, in a note to the Heart of Midlothian, that the only copy he ever eaw
Scott says Gosfwd’s Close, but it is obviously a mistake, as, independent of the direct evidence we have of the true
Gersome, or elzheam siller, now pronounced Grassurn.
Sir William Dick”
guards, aa Lord Provost of Edinburgh, superintending the unloading of one of his rich argosies at Leith.
exhibits him ea arrested, and in the hands of the bailiffs, and a third presents him dead in prison.
valued by collectors.
for d e was valued at 230.
site of Sir WiUiam Dick’# house, that close W~JJn ot in the Luckenbooths, the locality he correctly mentions.
.
Maitland, p. 285. ......

Book 10  p. 248
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430 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
I‘ Ita needless to erect a marble Tomb :
The daily bread, that for the hungry womb,
And bread of life thy bounty hath provided,
For hungry mula, all times to be divided ;
World-lasting monuments &all reare,
That shall endure till Christ himself appear.
Pos’d waa thy life ; prepar’d thy happy end ;
Nothing in either wa8 without commend,
Let it be the care of all who live hereafter,
To live and die like Margaret Lady Yeater :
Who died 15 March 1647. Her age 75.”
The old Lady Yester’s Church built in 1644, stood at the corner of the High School Wynd, surrounded by
a churchyard. It is a proof of the flimsy character of modern ecclesiastical edifices, aa well aa the little veneration
they excited in the minds of the worshippers, that this church ha already disappeared, and been rebuilt
considerably to the westward, in a very strange and hondewript style of architecture. The tomb of the foundress,
and a tablet recording her good works, are both rebuilt in the New Church, and we presume her body
has also been removed to the new 64minister‘s little isle.”
N. CORPORATION AND MASONIC HALLS.
CANDLEMAKERs.-The H d of this ancient Corporation still stands at the Candlemaker Row, with the arms
of the Craft boldly cut over the doorway on a large panel, and beneath, their appropriate motto, Omnia rnanitesta
Euce, Internally, however, the hall is subdivided into sundry small apartments ; much more circumscribed
accommodation sufficing for the assembly of the fraternity in these days of gaslight and reform. The Candlemakers
of Edinburgh were incorporated by virtue of a Seal of Cause granted them in 1517, wherein it is
required “That na maner of Man nor Woman occupy the said Craft, as to be ane Maister, and to set up Buit,
bot @he be ane Freman, or ells an Freman’cl Wyfe of the said Craft, allanerlie ; and quhan thay set up Buit,
thay sall pay to Sanct Geil’s Wark, half a mark of sylver, and to the Reparatioun, bylding and uphaldiug of the
Licht of ony misterfull Alter within the College Kirk of Sanct Geils, quhair the said Deykin and Craftismen
thinks maist neidfull, and half ane Mark by and q u h i l l the said Craftismen be furniat of ane Alter of thair
awin. And in lykwayis, ilk Maister and Occupiar of the said Craft, sall, in the Honour of Almichtie God, and
of his blessit Mother, Sanct Marie, and of our Patroun, Sanct Geill, and of all Sanctis of Heaven, sall gifzeirlie
to the helping and furthering of ony guid Reparatioun, either of Licht or ony other neidfull wark till ony Alter
situate within the College Kirk, maist neidfull, Ten Shilling ; and to be gaderit be the Deykin of the said
Craft, ay and quhill thay be provydit of an Alter to thameselfFis ; and he that disobeis the same, the Deykin
and the Leif of the Craft sall poynd with ane Officiar of the Toun, and gar him pay walx to oure Lady’s Alter,
quhill thay get an Alter of thair awin. And that nane of the said Craftismen send ony Lads, Boyis, or Servands,
oppinlie upoun the Hie-gaitt with ony Candill, to roup or to sell in playne Streites, under the payne of escheiting
of the Candill, paying ane pund of walx to oure Lady’s Alter, the first falt,” &c. It doea not appear whether
or not the Craft ever founded an altar or adopted a patron saint of their own, before the new Ziyht of the Reformers
of the Congregation put an end to the whole system of candle-gifta and forfeits to the altars of St Giles’s
Church. The venerable fraternity of Candlemakers still exists, no unworthy sample of a close corporation.
The number of its members amounts to’three, who annually meet for the purpose of electing the o5iice-bearers
of the corporation, and distributing equitably the d r i e s and other perquisite8 accruing to them from ita funds
in return for their onemus duties !
.. ......

Book 10  p. 469
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I 88 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH,
tion of national honour and triumph, and committed, along with the other portions of his
body, to the tomb of his ancestors, in the south transept of St Giles’s Church. The north
gable was not, however, long suffered to remain unoccupied. On the 27th of May 1661,-
little more than four months after the tardy honours paid to the Marquis of Montrose,-
the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded at the Cross, and ‘( his heia agxt upone the heid of the
Tolbuith, quhair the Marques of Montrois wes affixit of befoir.” The ground floor of this
ancient part of the Tolbooth was known by the name of the Purses, by which it is often
alluded to in early writings. In the ancient titles of a house on the north side of the
High Street, it is described as “ that Lodging or Timber Land, lying in the burgh of
Edinburgh, forgainst the place of the Tolbooth, commonly called the poor folks’ Purses.”
In the trial of William Maclauchlane, a servant of the Countess of Wemyss, who was
apprehended almost immediately after the Porteous mob, one of the witnefses states, that
‘(having come up Beth’s Wynd, he tried to pass by the Purses on the north side of the
prison ; but there perceiving the backs of a row of armed men, some with staves, others
with guns and Lochaber axes, standing across the street, who, he was told, were drawn
up as a guard there, he retired again.” The crime sought to be proved against Maclauchlane,
was his having been seen taking a part with this guard, armed with a Lochaber axe.
Another witness describes having seen some of the magistrates going up from the head of
Mary King’s Close, towards the Purses on the north side of the Tolbooth, where they
were stopped by the mob, and compelled to make a precipitate retreat. This important
pass thus carefully guarded on the memorable occasion of the Porteous riot, derived its
name from having been the place where the ancient fraternity of BZue Gowns, the King’s
faithful bedemen, received the royal bounty presented to them on each King’s birthday,
in a leathern purse, after having attended service in St Giles’s Church. For many years
previous to the destruction of the Old Tolbooth, this distribution was transferred to the
Canongate Kirk aisle, where it took place annually on the morning of the Sovereign’s birthday,
at eight o’clock. After a sermon, preached by the royal almoner, or his deputy, each
of the bedemen received a roll of bread, a tankard of ale, and a web of blue cloth sufficient
to make him a new gown, along with a leathern purse, of curious and somewhat complicated
workmanship, which only the initiated could open. This purse contained his annual
alms or pension, consisting of as many pence as the years of the King’s age.
Bedemen appointed
to pray for the souls of the King’s ancestors and successors, were attached to royal
foundations. They are mentioned about the year 1226, in the Chartulary of Moray,’
and many curious entries occurred with reference to them, in the Treasurers’ accounts,
previous to the Reformation. The number of these bedemen is increased by one every
royal birthday, as a penny is added to the pension of each; an arrangement evidently
devised to stimulate their prayers for long life to the reigning sovereign, no less than for
peace to the souls of those departed.’
’
The origin of this fraternity is undoubtedly of great antiquity:
Nicoll’s Diary, p. 335. * Statiat. ACC. xiii. 412. ’ The following items appear in the Account of Sir Robert Melvill, Treasurer-Depute of King James VI. “Junij
1590. Item, to Mr Peter Young, Elimosinar, twentie four gownia of blew clayth, to be gevin to xxiiij auld men, according
to the yeiris of his hienes age. . . . Item, twentie four pur&, and in ilk purss twentie four schiling.” Again
in “Junij 1617, To James Xurray, merchant, for fyftene scoir #ex elnis and ane half elne of blew claith, to be gownis to
fyftie me aigeit men, according to the yeiris of his majesteia age. Item, to the workmen for careing of the gownia fra ......

Book 10  p. 206
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456 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
standing on that pillorie, with his heid and handis lyand out at hoilis cuttit out for that end, his rycht lug was
cuttit af; and thaireftir careyit over to the toun of St Johnnestoun, quhair ane uther pillorie wes erectit, on
the quhilk the uther left lug wes cuttit af him. The caus heirof W&B this ; that he haid gevin out fah calumneis
and le@ aganes Collonell Daniell, governour of Peirth. Bot the treuth is, he was ane notorious decevar and
ane intelligencer, sumtyme for the Englisches, uther tymes for the Scottis, and decevand both of thame:
besyde mony uther prankis quhilk wer tedious to writt.”
(‘ Last of Apryle 1655.-The Marschellis man, quha weB apoynted to haif cuttit Mr Patrik Maxwell haill lug,
bot being buddit pribed] did onlie cutt a€ a pairt of his lug, was thairfoir this day brocht to the Mercat Croce
of Edinburgh, and set upone the pillarie, and thair his lug boirit for not obeying his oommissioun in that
“23 Marche 1657.-Thair wes ane Engliache sodger bund naikit to the gallous of Edinburgh, and first
scourgit, and thaireftir his lugges naillit to the gallous by the space of ane hour or thairby, and thaireftir hia
lugges cuttit out of his heid for cunzieing and forging two halff crounes. The quhich two half crounea war
festned and naillit to the gibit, quhair they remayne to this day.”
These are ody the minor punishments inflicted on offenders, The same annalist recorda hanging and
burning for more heinous crimes, with painful frequency ; proving either a period of unusual depravity, or of
unwonted strictness in searching after secret offences that am now scarcely ever heard of before our criminal
Wurt&
The mode of public pillory, by nailing the offender’s ear to the Tron, continued in use in the eighteenth
century, though it was latterly only resorted to for the punishment of graver offenders, others being simply
exposed, with a label a x e d to them publishing their infamy, On the 24th July 1700, as appears by the Acta
of Sederunt, John Corse of Corsemlin was convicted of using a vitiated bond, the same having been altered
with his knowledge, “and therefore the Lords ordain the said John to be sent to the Tolbooth of Edinburgh,
and from thence on Friday next, before eleven o’clock in the forenoon, to be taken by the hands of the common
hangman to the Tron, and there to have his ear nailed to the Tron and to stand so nailed till twelve hours
strike, and to have these words in great letters fixed on hk breast, as he goes down the street, and upon the
Tron, For his kno~ledgeof , and using a vitiate bond”
popt.”
NOSEP mcHmCt.-The following notices of a sw later date show the same process of nailing continued,
with the addition of an entirely novel means of torture, called Nose Pinching. This, we presume, must have
been effected by screwing some instrument like a hand-vice on the nose, which, in addition to the acute pain
it inflicted, must have presented 8 singularly ludicrous appearance to the by-standers, as the culprit stood
nailed to the post with his pincAw dangling from his nose, hugging &B it were the instruments of his torture.
The following notices are extracted from a “List of Precedents excerpte from the Records of Warranda to
vouch the use and exercise of the Town of Edinburgh’s Jurisdiction of SheriGhip by the Lord Provost and
Baillies.”
(‘ 29 October 1723.-The trial and process against James Stewart, alias M‘Pherson, a vagrant thief, whipt
“28 December 1726.-The trial against George Melvil, notour thief; set on the bone, and his nose
(‘ 17 October 1727.-The trial against David Allison for theft. Pillar’d, pinch’d in the nose, and sent to the
“29 Mych 1728.-The trial against Jean Spence, notour thief; pillar‘d, her lug nailed, and her nose pinched.”
.
and sent to the Correction House for life.”
pinch’d”
Correction House.” ......

Book 10  p. 496
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258 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
believe, was the place whither the Reformer withdrew for private study and devotion, and
where the chief portion of his history was written.
The plaster ceiling of the hall appears to be a work about the time of Charles II., but a
great portion of it has now given way, and discloses the original oak beams and planking
of the flo’or above, which are painted in the style we have already described in the account
of Blpth’s Close. Tradition has industriously laboured to add to the associations of the
old building by such clumsy inventions as betray their spuriousness. A vault underneath
the street, which contains a covered well, is exhibited to the curious by the tenant of the
laigh shop,“ as the scene of secret baptisms of children before the Reformation ; at B
time when it more probably formed a convenient receptacle for the good Abbot’s wines,
and witnessed no other Christian rites than those over which his butler presided. The ‘‘ preaching window ” has also been long pointed out, from whence the Reformer, according
to the same authority, was wont to address the populace assembled below. The
interesting narrative of his last sermon in St Giles’s Church, and the scene that followed,
when. his congregation lingered in the High Street, watching, as for the last time, the
feeble steps of their aged pastor, seems the best confutation of this oft-repeated tradition,
which certainly receives no countenance from history. Among these spurious traditions,
we are also inclined to reckon that which assigns the old Reformer’s house to the celebrated
printer, Thomas Bassandyne. Society Close, in its neighbourhood, was indeed
formerly called Bassandyne’s Close, as appears by the titles; but even if this be in
reference to the printer, which we question, it would rather discredit than confirm the
tradition, as another land intervened between that and the famed old tenement.’ There is
an access to Knox’s house by a stair in the angle behind the Fountain Well, in the wall
of which is a doorway, now built up, said to communicate with a subterranean passage
leading to a considerable distance towards the north.
It is impossible to traverse the ruined apartments of this ancient mansion without feelings
of deep and unwonted interest. To the admirers of the intrepid Reformer, it awakens
thoughts not only of himself but of the work which he so effectually promoted ; to all it
is interesting as intimately associated with memorable events in Scottish history. There
have assembled the Earls of Murray, Morton, and Glencairn; Lords Boyd, Lindsay,
Ruthven, and Ochiltree, and many others, agents of the Court, as well as its most resolute
opponents ; and within the faded and crumbling hall, councils have been matured that
exercised a lasting influence on the national destinies. There, too, was the scene of his
1 We have discovered in the Burgh Charter Room a deed of disposition referring to part of this property, and of an
earlier date than any now in the hands of the propridora, viz DiSpositiOn of How in N e t k Bow, March 1,1624,
Alesounc Bassdyw and other8 to John Binning.” One of the others is Alexander Crawford, her husband, while the
property appeara to have been originally acquired by her as spouse of umq- Alexander Ker, two of whose daughters
by her are named, along with their husbands, an joint contracting parties in the disposition ; and, it may be added,
‘‘ umq” Alexander Richardson, some time spouse to me, the said Aleaoune,” 8II intermediate husband, is mentioned in
the deed. The house ia situated down the close, and is bounded “by the waste land descending north to the wall of
Trinity College on the north . . . and the waste land of umquile James Baeaendyne on the south parts.” Thia deed ia
dated only forty-eeven years after the death of the printer; so that James was, in all probability, a contemporary or pra
deceaeor. Neither he nor Aleaoun is referred to among the printer’s relatives in his will (Bann. Misc. vol. ii. p. 203),
but Alesoun Bassindyne, my dochter,” ia appointed one of the executors in the will of Katharine Norwell, the widow
of the printer, who had married a second time, and died in 1693 (ibid, p. 220), and to whom she leaves her twa best
new blak gowneis, twa pair of new cloikis, and twa new wylie cottis, with ane signet of gold, and ane ring with twa
stanein.” She was probably the old prink's only child, and an infant st the time of hie decease. The house, which
WO believe to have been that of Thomas Basaendyne, is described towarda the close of thii chapter.
* ......

Book 10  p. 280
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216 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
Lord Kinnoull and several other prisoners were equally successful in getting out of the
castle, by letting themselves down over the rock with their sheets and blankets cut into
strips ; and others confined in the Canongate Tolbooth effected, by like means, a similar
jail delivery for themselves.’ When a better understanding had been established between
the Protector and hia Scottish subjects, the old hall was restored to more legitimate uses.
There, in the following year, General Monck and the leaders of the Commonwealth were
feasted with lavish hospitality, and the courts of law resumed their sittings, with an
honest regard for justice scarcely known in Scotland before.
glorious Restoration,” under the auspices of the once republican
general ; and the vice-regent and royal commissioner, the Duke of York, was feasted
with his fair princess and daughter, attended by the beauty and chivalry of Scotland,
anxious to efface all memory of former doing in the same place. But sad as was the
scene of Scotland‘s children held captive in her own capital by English jailers, darker
times were heralded by this vice-regal banquet, when the Duke presided, along with
Dalaiell and Claverhouse, in the same place, to try by torture the passive heroism of the
confessors of the Covenant, and the astute lawyer, Sir George Mackenzie, played the part
of king’s advocate with such zeal, as has won him the popular title which still survives
all others, of “ Bluidy Mackenzie.” The lower rooms, that have so long been dedicated
to the calm seclusion of literary study, are the same that witnessed €he noble, the
enthusiastic, and despairing, alike prostrate at the feet of tyrants, or subjected to
cruel tortures by their merciless award. There Guthrie and Argyll received the barbarous
sentence of their personal enemies without. form of trial, and hundreds of less note
courageously endured the fury of their persecutors, while Mercy and Justice tarried at the
door.
A glimpse at the procedure of this Scottish Star Chamber,-furnished by Fountainhall,
in his account of the trial of six men in October 1681, on account of their religion and
fanaticism,”-may suffice for a key to the justice administered there. Garnock,. one of
the prisoners, having railed at Dalziell in violent terms, “the General in a passion
struck him with the pomel of his shable on the face, till the blood sprung.”a With
such men for judges, and thumbekins, boots, and other instruments of torture as the means
of eliciting the evidence they desired, imagination will find it hard to exceed the horrors
of this infamous tribunal.
Aninteresting trial is mentioned by Fountainhall as having occurred in 1685.8 Richard
Rumbold, one of Cromwell’s old hopsides, was brought up, accused of being implicated in
the Rye House Plot. He had defended himself so stoutly against great odds that he was
Then came the
1 The Scottish prisoners would seem to have been better acquainted with the secrete of their own strongholds than
their English jailem. Nicoll remarks, “ It waa a thing admirable to considder how that the Scottia prissoneris being so
cloalie keepit heir within the Castle of Edinburgh, and in the laich Parliament Hous, and within the Tolbuith of the
Cannogait, and daylie and nychtlie attendit with a gaird of sodgeris, sould Ea oft escaip imprisaonment. And now laitlie,
npone the 27 day of Maij 1654, being Settirday at midnicht, the Lord Kynnoull, the Laird of Lugtoun, ane callit Marechell,
and another callit Hay, by the nioyen of one of the Inglische centrie escapit forth of the Castell of Edinburgh,
being lat doun be thairawin bedscheittis and blankettis, hardlie knut. AlI these four, with ane of the Inglische centrie,
escapit. Thair waa ane uther prettie gentill man, and a brave sodger, eavaping to do the lyke, he, in his doungoing, fell
and brak his neck, the knotia of the scheittia being maid waik by the former persoues wecht that past doun before him.”
-Nicoll‘s Diary, p. 128. ’ Fountainhall’s Decisions, voL i. p. 159. Ibid, vol. i p. 365. ......

Book 10  p. 235
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