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Leith.] FIGHT IN THE HARBOUR. ?33
of war, which had been at anchor for six weeks
in the Roads, and apparently with all her guns
shotted,
About noon on the 10th December, 1613, an
Englishman, who was in a ?mad humour,? says
Calderwood, when the captain and most of the
officers were on shore, laid trains of powder throughout
the vessel, notwithstanding that his own son
was on board, and blew her up. Balfour states
that she was a 48-gun ship, commanded by a
Captain Wood, that sixty men were lost in her,
and sixty-three who escaped were sent to London.
Calderwood reduces the number who perished to
twenty-four, and adds that the fire made all her
ordnance go off, so that none dared go near her to
render assistance.
In 1618 Leith was visited by Taylor, the Water
Poet, and was there welcomed by Master Bernard
Lindsay, one of the grooms of his Majesty?s bedchamber;
and his notice of the commerce of the
port presents a curious contrast to the Leith of the
present day :-cc I was credibly informed that within
the compass of one year there was shipped away
from that only port of Leith fourscore thousand
boles of wheat, oats, and barley, into Spain, France,
and other foreign parts, and every bole contains a
measure of four English bushels; so that from
Leith only hath been transported 320,000 bushels
of corn, besides some hath been shipped away
from St. Andrews, Dundee, Aberdeen, &c., and
other portable towns, which makes me wonder that
a kingdom so populous as it is, should nevertheless
sell so much bread corn beyond the seas, and yet
have more than sufficient for themselves.?
In parochial and other records of those days
many instances are noted of the capture of Scottish
mariners by the pirates of Algiers, and of collections
being made in the several parishes for their
redemption from slavery. In the Register of the
Privy Council, under date January, r636, we find
that a ship called the Jdn, of Leith, commanded
by John Brown, when sailing from London to
La Rochelle, on the coast of France, fell in with
three Turkish men-of-war, which, after giving him
chase from sunrise to sunset, captured the vessel,
took possession of the cargo and crew, and then
scuttled her.
Poor Brown and his mariners were all taken to
Salee, and there sold in the public market as
slaves. Each bore iron chains to the weight of
eighty pounds, and all were daily employed in
grinding at a mill, while receiving nothing to eat
but a little dusty bread. In the night they were
confined in holes twenty feet deep aniong rats and
mice, and because they were too poor-being only
mariners-to redeem themselves, they trusted to the
benevolence of his Majesty?s subjects. By order
of the Council, a contribution was levied in the
Lothians and elsewhere, but with what result we
are not told.
In 1622 the usual excitements of the times were
varied by a sea-fight in the heart of Leith harbour.
On the 6th of June, in that year, the constable of
Edinburgh Castle received orders from the Lords
of Council to have his cannon and cannoniers in
instant readiness, as certain foreign ships were engaged
in close battle within gunshot of Leith
A frigate belonging to Philip IV. of Spain, cbmmanded
by Don Pedro de Vanvornz, had been
lying for some time at anchor within the harbour
there, taking on board provisions and stores, her
soldiers and crew coming on shore freely whenever
they chose; but it happened that one night two
vessels of war, belonging to their bitter enemies,
the Dutch, commanded by Mynheer de Hautain,
the Admiral of Zealand, came into the same anchorage,
and-as the Earl of Melrose reported to
James VI.-cast anchor close by Don Pedro.
The moment daylight broke the startled Spaniards
ran up their ensign, cleared away for action, and a
desperate fight ensued, nearly muzzle to muzzle.
For two hours without intermission, the tiers of
brass cannon from the decks of the three ships
poured forth a destructive fire, and the Spaniards,
repulsed by sword and partisan, made more than
one attempt to carry their lofty bulwarks by
boarding. The smoke of their culverins, matchlocks,
and pistolettes enveloped their rigging and
all the harbour of Leith, through the streets and
along the pier of which bullets of all sorts and
sizes went skipping and whizzing, to the terror and
confusion of the inhabitants.
As this state of things was intolerable, the burgesses
of the city and seaport rushed to arms and
armour, at the disposal of the Lords of Council,
who despatched a herald with the water bailie to
command both parties to forbear hostilities in Scottish
waters ; but neither the herald?s tabard nor the
bailie?s authority prevailed, and the fight continued
with unabated fury till midday. The Spanish
captain finding himself sorely pressed by his two
antagonists, obtained permission to warp his ship
farther within the harbour ; but still the unrelenting
Dutchmen poured their broadsides upon his
shattered hull.
The Privy Council now ordered the Admiral
Depute to muster the mariners of Leith, and assail
the Admiral of Zealand in aid of the Dunkerpuer;
but the depute reported that they were altogether
vnable, and he saw no way to enforce obedience ... FIGHT IN THE HARBOUR. ?33 of war, which had been at anchor for six weeks in the Roads, and apparently ...

Book 5  p. 183
(Score 2.02)

394 MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH.
the Church, were ordered to be converted into great guns for the use of the Town,” a
resolution so far departed from, that they were sold the following year for two hundred
and twenty pounds.’ Two of the remaining bells were recast at Campvere in Zealand, in
1621 ; ’ and the largest of these having cracked, it was again recast at London in 1846.
In 1585, St Giles’s Church obtained some share of its neighbours’ spoils, after having
been stripped of all its sacred furniture by the iconoclasts of the sixteenth century. That
year the Council purchased the clock belonging to the Abbey Church of Lindores in Fife,
and put it up in St Giles’s steeple,s previous to which time the citizens probably regulated
time chiefly by the bells for matins and vespers, and the other daily services of the Roman
Catholic Church.
Such is an attempt to trace, somewhat minutely, the gradual progress of St Giles’s,
from the small Parish Church of a rude hamlet, to the wealthy Collegiate Church, with its
forty altars, and a still greater number of chaplains and officiating priests ; and from
thence to its erection into a cathedral, with the many vicissitudes it has since undergone,
until its entire remodelling in 1829. The general’paucity of records enabling us to fix the
era of the later stages of. Gothic architecture in Scotland confers on such inquiries some
value, as they suffice to show that our northern architects adhered to the early Gothic
models longer than those of England, and executed works of great beauty and mechanical
skill down to the reign of James V., when political and religious dissensions abruptly
closed the history of ecclesiastical architecture in the kingdom. No record preserves to us
the names of those who designed the ancient Parish Church of St Giles, or the elaborate
additions that gradually extended it to its later intricate series of aisles, adorned with
every variety of detail. It will perhaps be as well, on the whole, that the name of
the modern architect who undertook the revision of their work should share the same
oblivion.
Very different, both in its history and architectural features, from the venerable though
greatly modernised Church of St Giles, is the beautiful edifice which stood at the foot of
Leith Wynd, retaining externally much the same appearance as it assumed nearly 400
years ago, at the behest of the widowed Queen of James II., whose ashes repose beneath
its floor. The Collegiate Church of the Holy Trinity was founded in 1462, by the Queen
Dowager, Mary of Guelders, for a provost, eight prebends, and two singing boys; in
addition to which there was attached to the foundation an hospital for thirteen poor bedemen,
clad, like the modern pensioners of royalty, in blue gowns, who were bound to pray
for the soul of the royal foundress. In the new statutes, it is ordered that (‘ the saidis
Beidmen sal1 prepair and mak ilk ane of yame on yair awin expensis, ane Blew-gown, COBform
to thefirst Foundation.” The Queen Dowager died on the 16th November 1463,
and was buried ‘‘ in the Queen’s College besyde Edinburgh, quhilk sho herself foundit,
biggit, and dotit.” ‘ No monument remains to mark the place where the foundress is laid;
but her tomb is ienerdly understood to be in the vestry, on the north side of the church.
The death of the Queen so soon after the date of the charter of foundation, probably
prevented the completion of the church according to the original design. As it now stands
it consita of the choir and transepts, with the central tower partially built, and evidently
1 Maitland, p. 273. * Ibid, p. 62. 8 Burgh Register, YOL vii. p. 177. Maitland, p. 273. ‘ haley’s Hkt. p. 36. ... MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH. the Church, were ordered to be converted into great guns for the use of the Town,” ...

Book 10  p. 432
(Score 1.52)

184 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rLeith .
but by bringing ordonnance from the Castell to the
shoare, to dins at them so long as they sould be
within shot.?? (Melrose?s Letter.)
Upon this the constable and his cannoniers, with
a battery of guns, came with all speed down, by the
Bonnington Road most probably, and took up a
position on the high ground near the ancient chapel
of St. Nicholas; but this aid came too late, for
Mynheer de Hautain had driven the unfortunate
Spanish frigate, after great slaughter, completely
outside the harbour, where she grounded on a dangerous
reef, then known as the Mussel Cape, but
latterly as the Black Rocks.
There she was boarded by a party of Leith seamen,
who hoisted a Scottish flag at her topmasthead
; but that afforded her no protection, for the
inexorable Dutchmen boarded her in the night,
burned her to the water?s edge, and sailed away
before dawn.
Two years after this there occurred a case of
? murder under trust, stouthrief, and piracie,? of
considerable local interest, the last scene of which
was enacted at Leith. In November, 1624, Robert
Brown, mariner in Burntisland, with his son, John
Brown, skipper there, David Dowie, a burgess there,
and Robert? Duff, of South Queensferry, were
all tried before the Criminal Court for slaying under
trust three young Spanish merchants, and appropriating
to themselves their goods and merchandise,
which these strangers had placed on board John
Brown?s ship to be conveyed from the Spanish port
3f San Juan to Calais three years before. ? Beeing
in the middis of the sea and far fra lande,? runs
the indictment, they threw the three Spaniards
overboard, ?ane eftir other in the raging seas,?
after which, in mockery of God, they ?maid ane
prayer and sang ane psalm,? and then bore away
for Middelburg in Zealand, and sold the property
acquired-walnuts, chestnuts, and Spanish wines.
For this they were all hanged, their heads struck
from their bodies and set upon pikes of iron in the
town of Leith, the sands of which were the scene
of many an execution for piracy, till the last, which
occurred in 1822, when Peter Heaman and Fransois
Gautiez were hanged at the foot of Constitution
Street, within the floodmark, on the 9th of January,
for murder and piracy upon the high seas.
On the 28th and 30th March, 1625, a dreadful
storm raged along the whole east coast of Scotland,
and the superstitious Calderwood, in his history,
seems to connect it as a phenomenon with the death
of James VI., tidings of which reached Edinburgh
on that day. The water in Leith harbour rose
to a height never known before; the ships were
dashed against each other ?? broken and spoiled,?
and many skippers and mariners who strove to
make them fast in the night were drowned. ?It
was taken by all men to be a forerunner of some
great alteration. And, indeed, the day followingto
wit, the last of March-sure report was brought
hither from Court that the King departed this
life the Lord?s day before, the 27th of March?
.
CHAPTER XX.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (continued).
Si William Mown?s Suggestinns-Leith Re-fortified-The Covenant Signed-The Plague-The Cromwelli in Leith-A Mutiny-Newspaw
Printed in the Citadel-Tucker?s Report-English Fleet-A Windmill-English Pirates Hanged-Citadel seized by Brigadier Mackintosh&
Hessian Army Lands-Highland Mutinies-Paul Jones-Prince William Henry. .
CHARLES I. was proclaimed King of Scotland,
England, France, and Ireland, at the Cross of Edinburgh
and on the shore at Leith, where Lord Balmerino
and the Bishop of Glasgow attended with
the heralds and trumpeters.
The events of the great Civil War, and those
which eventually brought that unfortunate king to
the scaffold, lie apart from the annals of Leith, yet
they led to the re-fortifying of it after Jenny Geddes
had given the signal of resistance in St. Giles?s in
July, 1637, and the host of the Covenant began to
gather on the hills above Dunse.
Two years before that time we find Vice-Admiral
Sir William Monson, a distinguished English naval
officer who served with Raleigh in Elizabeth?s reign
in many expeditions under James VI., and who
survived till the time of Charles I., urging in his
?Naval Tracts? that Leith should be made the
capital of Scotland !
?? Instead of Edinburgh,? he wrote, I? which is
the supreme city, and now made the head of justice,
whither all men resort as the only spring that waters
the kingdom, I wish his Majesty did fortify, strengthen,
and make impregnable, the town of Leith, and
there to settle the seat of justice, with all the other
privileges Edinburgh enjoys, referring it to the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rLeith . but by bringing ordonnance from the Castell to the shoare, to dins at them so ...

Book 5  p. 184
(Score 1.28)

202 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
.armorial he adopted was argent, a tree or, with two
ships under sail.
It was still time of truce when Henry, mortified
by the defeat of his five ships, exhorted his most
.able seamen ? to purge away this stain cast on the
English name,? and offered the then noble pension
of &I,OOO per annum to any man who could
accomplish Wood?s death or capture ; and the task
was taken in hand by Sir Stephen Bull (originally
a merchant of London), who, with three of Henry?s
largest ships manned by picked crews, and having
on board companies of crossbowmen, pikemen, and
many volunteers of valour and good birth, sailed
from the Thames in July, 1490, and entering the
Firth of Forth, came to anchor under the lee of
the Isle of May, there to await the return of Wood
from Sluys, and for whose approach he kept boats
scouting to seaward.
On the morning of the 18th of August the two
ships of Wood hove in sight, and were greeted with
exultant cheers by the crews of Bull, who set
some inlets of wine abroach, and gave the orders
to unmoor and clear away for battle.
Wood recognised the foe, and donninghis armour,
gave orders to clear away too ; and his brief ha-
Iangue, modernised, is thus given by Lindesay of
Pitscottie and others :-
? My lads, these are the foes who would convey
us in bonds to the foot of an English king, but by
your courage and the help of God they shall fail !
Repair every man to his station-charge home,
gunners-cross-bowmen to the tops-two-handed
swords to the fore-rooms-lime-pots and fire-balls in
the tops ! Be stout, men, and true for the honour
of Scotland and your own sakes. Hurrah!?
Shouts followed, and stoups of wine went round.
His second in command was Sir David Falconer,
who was afterwards slain at Tantallon. The result
of the battle that ensued is well known. It was
continued for two days and a night, during which
the ships were all grappled together, and drifted
into the Firth of Tay, where the English were all
taken, and carried as prizes into the harbour of
Dundee. Wood presented Sir Stephen Bull and
his surviving officers to Jarnes IV., who dismissed
them unransomed, with their ships, ? because they
fought not for gain, but glory,? and Henry dissemkled
his rage by returning thanks.
For this victory Wood obtained the sea town as
well as the nether town of Largo, and soon afteI
his skilful eye recommended the Bay of Gourock ta
James as a capable harbour. In 1503 he led a
fleet against the insurgent chiefs of the Isles. Hi$
many brilliant services lie apart from the immediate
history of Leith. Suffice it to say that he was pre.
I
sent at the battle of Linlithgow in 1526, and
wrapped the dead body of Lennox in his own
scarlet mantle. Age was coming on him after this,
and he retired to his castle of Largo, where he
seems to have lived somewhat like old Commodore
Trunnion, for there is still shown the track of a
canal formed by his order, on which he was rowed
to mass daily in Largo church in a barge by his
old crew, who were all located around him, He is
supposed to have died abodt 1540, and was buried
in Largo church. One of his sons was a senator
of the College of Justice in 1562 ; and Sir Andrew
Wood, third of the House of Largo, was Comptroller
of Scotland in 1585.
Like himself, the Bartons, the shipmates and
friends of Sir -4ndrew, all attained high honour
and fame, though their origin was more distinguished
than his, and they were long remembered
among the fighting captains of Leith.
John Barton, a merchant of Leith in the time of
James III., had three sons : Sir Andrew, the hero
of the famous nautical ballad, who was slain in the
Downs in 151 I, but whose descendants still exist ;
Sir Robert of Overbarnton in 1508, Comptroller
of the Household to James V. in 1520; John, an
eminent naval commander under James 111. and
James IV., who died in t 5 13,and was buried at Kirkcudbright.
The Comptroller?s son Robert married
the heiress of Sir John Mowbray of Barnbougle, who
died in 151 y ; and his descendants became extinct
in the person of Sir Robert of Overbarnton, Barnbougle,
and Inverkeithing. Our authorities for these
and a few other memoranda concerning this old
Leith family are a ?Memoir of the Familyof Barton,
&c.,? by J. Stedman, Esq., of Bath (which is scarce,
only twelve copies having been printed), Tytler,
Pinkerton, and others.
For three generations the Bartons of Leith seem
to have had a kind of family war with the Portuguese,
and their quarrel began in the year 1476,
when John Barton, senior, on putting to sea froin
Sluys, in Flanders, in a king?s ship, the ]iZiai?nnn,
laden with a valuable cargo, was unexpectedly
attacked by two armed Portuguese caravels, commanded
respectively by Juan Velasquez and Juan
Pret. The JiZiana was taken ; many of her crew
were slain or captured, the rest were thrust into a
boat and cut adrift. Among the latter was old John
Barton, who proceeded to Lisbon to seek indemnity,
but in vain; and he is said by one account to
have been assassinated by Pret or Velasquez to put
an end to the affair. By another he is stated to have
been alive in 1507, and in command of a ship
called the Liun, which was seized at Campvere, in
Zealand-unless it can be that the John referred to ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. .armorial he adopted was argent, a tree or, with two ships under sail. It was ...

Book 6  p. 202
(Score 1.19)

THE FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.]
Much of all this was altered when the bank was
enlarged, restored, and most effectively re-decorated
by David Bryce, R.S.A., in 1868-70. It now
presents a lofty, broad, and arch-based rear front of
colossal proportions to Princes Street, from whence,
and every other poiiit of view, it forms a conspicuous
mass, standing boldly from among the
many others that form the varied outline of the
Old Town, and consists of the great old centre with
new wings, surmounted by a fine dome, crowned
by a gilded figure of Fame, seven feet high. In
length the facade measures 175 feet; and 112 in
height from the pavement in Bank Street to the
summit, and is embellished all round with much
force and variety, in details of a Grecian style.
The height of the campanile towers is ninety feet.
The bank has above seventy branches ; the subscribed
capital in 1878 was A1,875,000 ; the paidup
capital LI,Z~O,OOO. There are a governor (the
Earl of Stair, K.T.), a deputy, twelve ordinary
and twelve extra-ordinary directors.
The Bank of Scotland issues drafts on other
places in Scotland besides those in which it has
branches, and also on the chief towns in England
and Ireland, and it has correspondents throughout
the whole continent of Europe, as well as in
British America, the States, India, China, Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa, and elsewhere-a ramification
of business beyond the wildest dreams oi
John Holland and the original projectors of the
establishment in the old Bank Close in 1695.
Concerning the Earthen Mound, the late Alex.
ander Trotter of Dreghorn had a scheme foi
joining the Qld Town to the New, and yet avoiding
Bank Street, by sinking the upper end of the
mound to the leve! of Princes Street, and carrying
the Bank Street end of it eastward along the north
of the Bank of Scotland, in the form of a handsomc
terrace, and thence south into the High Street b)
an opening right upon St. Giles?s Church. Thf
next project was one by the late Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder. He also proposed to bring down thc
south end of the mound ?to the level of Prince;
Street, and then to cut a Roman arch through thc
Lawnmarket and under the houses, so as to pas!
on a level to George Square. This,? say!
Cockburn, ?was both practical and easy, but i
was not expounded till too late.??
Not far from the Bank of Scotland, in I(
North Bank Street, ensconced among the might!
mass of buildings that overlook the mound, arc
the offices of the National Security Savings Ban1
of.Edinburgh, established under statute in 1836, an(
certified in terms of the Act 26 and 27 Victoria
cap. 87, managed by a chairman and cominittel
I
if management, the Bank of Scotland being
reasurer.
Of this most useful institution for the benefit of
,he thrifty poorer classes, suffice it to say, as a
ample of its working, that on striking the yearly
iccounts on the 20th of November, 1880, ?the
balance due to depositors was on that date
&r,305,27g 14s. 7d., and that the assets at the
same date were x1,3og,3g2 Ss., invested with the
Commissioners for the Reduction of the National
Debt, and A3,1o4 3s. gd., at the credit of the
3ank?s account in the Bank of Scotland, making
the total assets L1,312,496 11s. gd., which, after
ieductionof the above sum of L1,305,279 14s. 7d.,
leaves a clear surplus of A7916 17s. zd. at the
:redit of the trustees.?
The managers are, ex oficio, the Lord Provost,
the Lord Advocate, the senior Bailie of the city,
:he Members of Parliament for the city, county,
md Leith, the Provost of Leith, the Solicitor-
General, the Convener of the Trades, the Lord
Dean of Guild, and the Master of the Merchant
Company.
In the sanie block of buildings are the offices of
the Free Church of Scotland, occupying the site of
the demolished half of James?s Court. They were
erected in 1851-61, and are in a somewhat
Rorid variety of the Scottish baronial style, from
designs by the late David Cousin.
In striking contrast to the terraced beauty of the
New Town, the south side of the vale of the old
loch, from the North Bridge to the esplanade of
the Castle, is overhung by the dark and lofty gables
and abutments of those towering edifices which
terminate the northern alleys of the High Street,
and the general grouping of which presents an
aspect of equal romance and sublimity. From
amid these sombre masses, standing out in the
white purity of new freestone, are the towers and
facade of the Free Church College and Assembly
Hall, at the head of the Mound.
Into the history of the crises which called
these edifices into existence we need not enter
here, but true it is, as Macaulay says, that for the
sake of religious opinion the Scots have made
sacrifices for which there is no parallel in the
annals of England; and when, at the Disruption,
so many clergymen of the Scottish Church cast
their bread upon the waters, in that spirit of
independence and self-reliance so characteristic of
the race, they could scarcely have foreseen the
great success of their movement.
This new college was the first of those instituted
in connection with the Free Church. The idea
was origipally entertained of making provision for ... FREE CHURCH COLLEGE. 95 The Mound.] Much of all this was altered when the bank was enlarged, restored, and ...

Book 3  p. 95
(Score 1.18)

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