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CONTENTS.
- --
CHAPTER I
THE KIRK OF ST. MARY-IN-THE-FIELDS.
YhCD
Memorabilia of the Edifice-Its Age-Altars-Made Collegiate-The Prebendal Buildings-Ruined-The House of the KW-of Field-The
Murder of Darnley-Robert Balfour, the Last Pmvost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . I
CHAPTER 11.
T H E UNIVERSITY.
A n ~ l s of the Old Co:lege-Chartem of Queen Mary and James VI.-OM College described-The lirst Regems-King Jdmes?s Letter of
1617-Quarrel with Town Council-Students? IZlot in 1 6 b T h e Principal Dismissed-Abolished Offices-Dissection for the first
time-Quarrel with the Town Council-The Museum-The Greek Chair-System of Education introduced by Principal Rollock-The
Early Mode of Education-A Change in r7jo-The Old Hours of Attendance-The Silver Mace-The Projects of 1763 and 1789 for a
New College-The Foundation laid-Completion of the New College-Its Corporatiop after ~8~&-Pnnapal.-Chairs, and First
Holders thereof-Afew Notable Bequests-Income-The Library-The Museums . . . , . . . . . . . 8
CHAPTEK 111.
THE DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR.
The Muster by James 111.-Eurghmuir feued by James 1V.-Muster before Flodden-Relics thereof-The Pest--The Skirmish of Lowsie
Low-A Duel in 17zz-Valleyfreld House and Lmen Lodge-Barclay Free Church-Bruntsfield Links and the Golf Clubs . . . 27
CHAPTER IV.
DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR (concZrr&d).
Morningside and Tipperlin-Provost Coulter?s Funeral-Asylum for the Insane-Sultana of the Crimea4ld Thorn Tree-The Braids of that
Ilk-The FairleF of Braid-The Plew Lands-Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaib and other Proprieto-John Hill Burton-
The Old Tower-Meggatland and Redhan-White House Loan-The White House-St. Margaret?s Convent-Bruntsfield House-The
Warrenders-Greenhill and the Fairholm-Memorials of the Chapel of SL Roque-St. Giles?s Grange-The Dicks and Lauders-
Grange Cemetery-Memorial Churches , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3:
CHAPTER V.
THE DISTRICT OF NEWINGTON.
The Causewayside-Summerhall-Clerk Street Chapel and other Churches-Literary Institute-Mayfield Loan-Old Houses-Fre Church-
The Powbnrn-Fernde Blind Asylum-Chapel of St. John the Baptist-Dominican Convent at the Sciennes-Scienns Hill House-Scott
and Burns meet-New Trades Maiden Hospital-Hospital for Incurables-Pratonfield House--The Hamiltons and Dick-Cunninghams
--Cemetery at Echo Bnnk-lhe Lands of Gmemn-Craigmillar-Dption of the Castle- James V., Queen Mary, and Damlev.
wraentthere-QueenMary?sTree--ThePrestonsandGilmours-PeBerMillHo~~. ... Thorn Tree-The Braids of that Ilk-The FairleF of Braid-The Plew Lands -Craiglockhart Hall and House-The ...

Book 6  p. 393
(Score 3.19)

Bomington] THE LAIRDS OF PILRIG. 91
His History of the Church and State of Scotland,?
though coloured by High Church prejudices,
is deemed a useful narration and very candid record
of the most controverted part of our national
annals, while the State documents used in its compilation
have proved of the greatest value to every
subsequent writer on the same subject. Very
curious is the list of subscribers, as being, says
Chambers, a complete muster-roll of the whole
Jacobite nobility and gentry of the period, including
among others the famous Rob Roy, the outlaw !
The bishop performed the marriage ceremony of
that ill-starred pair, Sir George Stewart of Grandtully
and Lady Jane Douglas, on the 4th of August, I 746.
In I 7 5 5 he published his well-known ? Catalogue
of Scottish Bishops,? a mine of valuable knowledge
to future writers.
The latter years of his useful and blameless life,
during which he was in frequent correspondence
with the gallant Marshal Keith, were all spent at
the secluded villa of Bonnyhaugh, which belonged
to himself. There he died on the 27th of January,
1757, in his seventy-sixth year, and was borne,
amid the tears of the Episcopai communion, to his
last home in the Canongate churchyard. There he
lies, a few feet from the western wall, where a plain
stone bearing his name was only erected recently.
In 1766 Alexander Le Grand was entailed in the
lands and estates of Bonnington.
In 1796 the bridge of Bonnington, which was of
timber, having been swept away by a flood, a
boat was substituted till 1798, when another wooden
bridge was erected at the expense of A30.
Here in Breadalbane Street, northward of some
steam mills and iron-works, stands the Bonnington
Sugar-refining Company?s premises, formed by a few
merchants of Edinburgh andLeith about 1865, where
they carry on an extensive and thriving business.
The property and manor house of Stewartfield
in this quarter, is westward of Bonnington, a square
edifice with one enormous chimney rising through a
pavilion-shaped roof. We have referred to the entail
of Alexander Le Grand, of Bonnington, in 1766.
The Scots Magazine for 1770 records an alliance
between the two proprietors here thus :-?At Edinburgh,
Richard Le Grand, Esq., of Bonnington
(son of the preceding?), to Miss May Stewart,
daughter of James Stewart of Stewartfield, Esq.?
On the north side of the Bonnington Road, and
not far from Bonnington House, stands that of
Pilrig, an old rough-cast and gable-ended mansion
among aged trees, that no doubt occupies the site
of a much older edifice, probably a fortalice.
In 1584 Henry Nisbett, burgess of Edinburgh,
became caution before the Lords of the Privy
Council, for Patrick Monypenny of Pilrig, John
Kincaid of Warriston, Clement Kincaid of the
Coates, Stephen Kincaid, John Matheson, and
James Crawford, feuars of a part of the Barony
of Broughton, that they shall pay to Adam Bishop
of Orkney, commendator of Holyrood House,
?what they ow-e him for his relief of the last
taxation of _f;zo,ooo, over and above the sum of
?15, already consigned in the hands of the col-
Lector of the said collection.?
In 1601 we find the same Laird of Pilrig engaged
in a brawl, ?forming a specimen of the
second class of outrages.? He (Patrick Monypenny)
stated to the Lords of Council that he had
a wish to let a part of his lands of Pilrig, called the
Round Haugh, to Harry Robertson and Andrew
Alis, for his own utility and profit. But on a certain
day, not satisfied, David UuA; a doughty indweller in
Leith, came to these per?sons, and uttering ferocious
menaces against them in the event of their occupying
these lands, effectually prevented them from
doing so.
Duff next, accompanied by two men named
Matheson, on the 2nd of March, 1601, attacked
the servants of the Laird of Pilrig, as they were
at labour on the lands in question, with similar
speeches, threatening them with death if they persisted
in working there; and in the night they,
or other persons instigated by them, had come
and broken their plough, and cast it into the
Water of Leith. ?John Matheson,? continues the
indictment, ?? after breaking the complenar?s plew,
came to John Porteous?s house, and bade him gang
now betwix the Flew stilts and see how she wald go
till the morning:? adding that he would have his
head broken if he ever divulged who had broken
the plough,
The furious Duff, not contentwith all this,trampled
and destroyed the tilled land. In this case the
accused were dismissed from the bar, but only, it
would appear, through hard swearing in their own
cause.
There died at Pilrig, according to the Scots
Magazine for 1767, Margaret, daughter of the late
Sir Johnstone Elphinstone of Logie, in the month of
January ; and in the subsequent June, Lady Elphinstone,
his widow. The Elphinstones of Logie were
baronets of 1701.
These ladies were probably visitors, as the then
proprietor and occupant of the mansion was James
Balfour of Pilng, who was born in 1703, and became
a member of the Faculty of Advocates on
the 14th of November, 1730, Three years later
on the death of Mr. Bayne, Professor of Scottish
Law in the University of Edinburgh, he and Mr. ... THE LAIRDS OF PILRIG. 91 His History of the Church and State of Scotland,? though coloured by High ...

Book 5  p. 91
(Score 2.42)

38 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [ hlorningside.
reported to the Privy Council that he and the
Napiers of Edinbellie, having quarrelled about the
tiend sheaves of Merchiston, ? intended to convoa
t e their kin, and sic as will do for them in arms:
but to prevent a breach of the peace, William
Napier of the Wrychtishousis, as a neutral person,
was ordered by the Council to collect the sheaves
in question.
In 1614 he produced his book of logarithms,
dedicated to Pripce Charles-a discovery which
made his name famous all over Europe-and on
the 3rd of April, 1617, he died in the ancient tower
of Merchiston. His eldest son, Sir Archibald,
was made a baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I.,
and in 1627 he was raised to the peerage as
Lord Napier. His lady it was who contrived to
have abstracted the heart of Montrose from the
mutilated body of the great cavalier, as it lay
buried in the place appointed for the interment
of criminals, in an adjacent spot of the Burghmuir
(the Tyburn of Edinburgh). Enclosed in a casket
of steel, it was retained by the family, and underwent
adventures so strange and remarkable that a
volume would be required to describe them.
Merchiston has been for years occupied as a
large private school, but it still remains in possession
of Lords Napier and Ettrick as the cradle of
their old and honourable house.
In 1880, during the formation of a new street on
the ground north of Merchiston, a coffin fornied of
rough stone slabs was discovered, within a few feet
of the surface. It contained the remains of a fullgrown
human being.
Eastward of the castle, and within the park where
for ages the old dovecot stood, is now built Christ?s
Church, belohging to the Scottish Episcopalians. It
was built in 1876-7, at a cost of about cf10,500, and
opened in 1878. It is a beautifully detailed cruciforni
edifice, designed by Mr. Hippolyte J. Blanc,in
the early French-Gothic style, with a very elegant
spire, 140 feet high. From the west gable to the
chancel the nave measures eighty-two feet long and
forty broad ; each transept measures twenty feet by
thirty wide. The height of the church from the
floor to the eaves is twenty feet; to the ridge of
the roof fifty-three feet. The construction of the
latter is of open timber work, with moulded arched
ribs resting on ?? hammer beams,? which, in their
turn, are supported upon red freestone shafts, with
white freestone capitals and bases, boldly and beautifully
moulded.
The chancel presents the novel feature of a
circumambient aisle, and was built at the sole
expense of Miss Falconer of Falcon Hall, at a cost
of upwards of L3,ooo.
Opposite, within the lands of Greenhill, stands
the Morningside Athenmm, which was originally
erected, in 1863, as a United Presbyterian
church, the congregation of which afterwards
removed to a new church in the Chamberlain
Road.
North of the old villa of Grange Bank, and on
the west side of the Burghmuir-head road, stands
the Free Church, which was rebuilt in 1874, and
is in the Early Pointed style, with a fine steeple,
140 feet high. The Established Church of the
quoad sacra parish, disjoined from St. Cuthbert?s
since 1835, stands at the south-west corner of the
Grange Loan (then called in the ?maps, Church
Lane), and was built about 1836, from designs by
the late John Henderson, and is a neat little
edifice, with a plain pointed spire.
The old site of the famous Bore Stone was
midway between this spot and the street now called
Church Hill. In a house-No. r-here, the great
and good Dr. Chalmers breathed his last.
CHAPTER IV.
DISTRICT OF THE BURGHMUIR (cuncZudPd).
Morningside and Tipperlin-Provost Coulter?s Funeral-Asylum for the Insane-Sultana of the Crimea-Old Thorn Tree-The Braids of that
Ilk-The Fairleys of Braid-Thr Plew Lands-Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaids and other Proprietors--John Hill Burton The
Old Tower-Meggathd and Redhall-White House Loan-The bwhite House-St. Margaret?s Convent-Bruntsfield House-The War.
renders4reenhill and the Fairholmes-Memorials of the Chapel of St. Roqw-St. Giles?s Grange-The Dicks and Lauders-Grange
Cemetery-Memorial Churches.
SOUTHWARD of the quarter we. have been describing,
stretches, nearly to the foot of the hills of
Braid and Blackford, Morningside, once a secluded
village, consisting of little more than a row of
thatched cottages, a line of trees, and a blacksmith?s
forge, from which it gradually grevt- to become
an agreeable environ and summer resort of
I the citizens, with the fame of being the ?Montpellier
?? of the east of Scotland, alluring invalids to
its precincts for the benefit of its mild salubrious . air& around what was the old village, now man ... Tree-The Braids of that Ilk-The Fairleys of Braid-Thr Plew Lands -Craiglockhart Hall and House-The Kincaids and ...

Book 5  p. 38
(Score 2.14)

216 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab.
~~ ~~
Cuthbert?s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for
1,300.
The church was built in 1827, and is now named
St David?s, the parish being quo~d sawa, and disjoined
from St Cuthbert?s.
The United Secession Congregation, which formerly
sat here, have now their. place of worship,
seated for 1,284, on the west side of the Lothian
Road. In architecture, externally, it is assimilated
with the street.
charters granted by the Scottish kings between
1309 and 1413 the lands of Dalry, near Edinburgh,
are mentioned in several instances. Under Robert
I. the lands of Merchinstoun ahd Dalry ? were
granted to William Bisset. Under David II.,
Roger Hog, burgess of Edinburgh, had ?one
annual forth of Dalry ;,I and there was a charter
given by William More, of Abercorn, to William
Touris and Helenor Bruce, Countess of Carrick, of
the lands of Dalry, in the county of Edinburgh.
EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM PORT HOPETO[?N, 1825. (A/?#- EW6U.d)
Westward of this quarter lies the old historic
suburban district named Dalry. The quaint old
mancr house of that name, which stood so
long embosomed among its ancient copsewood,
on the east side of the Dalry Road, with its
projecting towers crowned by ogee roofs, is
now incorporated with one of the somewhat
humble class of streets, which hereabout have
covered the whole estate, even to Wester Dalry,
near the cemetery of that name.
Of Celtic origin, it takes its name from Dal, a
vale, and righ, ? a king,? like a place of the same
name in Cunningham, near which there is also a
spot named, like that at Holyrood, Croft an Righ,
?the croft of the king.? In the roll of missing
This Helenor was the only daughter of Alexander,
fifth Earl of Carrick (who fell at the battle of
Halidon Hill, in 1333)? and was the wife of Sir
William Cunningham, of Kilmaurs.
In the sixteenth century this fertile and valuable
barony became the property of the Chieslieq
wealthy burgesses of Edinburgh. .
In 1672 there was a ?ratification? by Parliament
in favour of the notorious John Chieslie
(son of Walter Chieslie of Dalry) of the lands of
Gorgie; and the inscription on the tomb of his
mother in the Greyfriars is thus given in Monteith?s
?Theatre of Mortality,? I 704-
Memonk charissimle SUE mnjugis, Cuthayin@
Tad, ~ U E decessit 27th Januav, 1679 Manumen ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Dab. ~~ ~~ Cuthbert?s, in 1831, for .&2,500, and seated for 1,300. The church ...

Book 4  p. 216
(Score 2.02)

252 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Streer
Bart. ; Miss Lucy Johnston of East Lothian, who
married hlr. Oswald of Auchincruive ; Miss
Halket of Pitfirran, who became the wife of the
celebrated Count Lally-Tollendal ; and Jane,
Duchess of Gordon, celebrated for her wit and
spirit as well as her beauty. These, with Miss
wynd into a street, there was swept away Dalgleish?s
Close, which is referred to in the ?Diurnal of
Occurrents? in 1572, and which occupied the site
of the present east side of Niddry Street.
From whom this old thoroughfare took its
name we know not; but it is an old one in
ST. CECILIA?S HALL.
Burnet and Miss Home, and many others whose
names I do not distinctly recollect, were indisputably
worthy of all the honours conferred
upon them.?
These and other Edinburgh belles of the past
all shed the light of their beauty on the old hall in
Niddry?s Wynd, now devoted to scholastic uses.
We first hear of a ? Teacher of EzzgZish ? in I 750,
when a Mr. Philp opened an educational estajlishment
in the wynd in that year. In widening the
Lothian, and, with various adjuncts, designates
several places near the city. In the charters of
David 11. Henry Niddry is mentioned in connection
with Niddry-Marshal, and Walter, son
of Augustine, burgess of Edynbourgh, has the
lands of Niddry in that county, qunm yohantles
de Bennnchtyne de k Con-okys res&navit, 19th
Sept. an. reg. 33; and under Robert 111. John
Niddry held lands in Cramond and also Pentland
Muu. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Streer Bart. ; Miss Lucy Johnston of East Lothian, who married hlr. Oswald of ...

Book 2  p. 252
(Score 1.85)

High Street.] SIR WILLIAM DICK. 221
and only remaining part of the bishop?s house has
been completely modernised, and faced with a new
stone front j ?but many citizens still (in 1847) remember
when an ancient timber faGade projected
its lofty gables into the street, with tier above tier,
then astonishing sum of ~zoo,ooo sterling, and
whose chequered history presents one of the most
striking examples of the instability of human affairs.
farming the Crown rents of the northern isles at
He came of Orkney people, and began life by ?.
. THE NETHER BOW PORT, FROM THE HIGH STREET.
(Frmn an 0n;PrircJ Draw& ammxg tk Kirg?s Prints nnd Drawings, BriiiSk Muscnm.)
far out beyond the lower storey, while below were
the covered piazza and darkened entrances to the
gloomy laigh shops, such as may still be seen
in the few examples of old timber lands that have
escaped demolition? (Wilson).
Here then abode Sir William Dick of Braid, provost
of the city in 1638, whose wealth was so great
that he was believed to have discovered the philosopheis
stone, though his fortune only reached the
.&,ooo sterling, after which he established an
active trade with the Baltic and Mediterranean,
and made, moreover, a profitable business by the
negotiation of bills of exchange with Holland.
?? He had ships on every sea, and could ride on his
own lands from North Berwick to near Linlithgow,
his wealth centreing in a warehouse in the Luckenbooths,
on the site of that now (in 1859) occupied
by John Clapperton and Co.? ... Street.] SIR WILLIAM DICK. 221 and only remaining part of the bishop?s house has been completely modernised, ...

Book 2  p. 221
(Score 1.79)

West Bow.1 THE TEMPLE LANDS. 321
and diversion from other patients, and his lucrum
assans, he has lost more than &so sterling, and
craves that sum as his fee and the recompense of
his damage.?
But as it was represented for the Laird of Netherplace,
that he had done his work unskilfully, and
In the city the order possessed several flat-roofed
tenements, known as the Temple Lands, and one
archway, numbered as 145, on the south side of the
Grassmarket, led to what was called the Temple
Close, but they have all been removed. It was
a lofty pile, and is mentioned in a charter of
that the sum of seyenteen
guineas was sufficient
payment.
At the foot of the
Bow, and on the west
side chiefly, were a few
old tenements, that,
in consequence of
being built upon
ground which had
originally belonged to
the Knights of the
Temple, were styled
Templar Lands, and
were distinguished by
having iron crosses on
their fronts and gables.
In the ?Heart of
Midlothian,? Scott
describes them as being
of uncommon
height and antique
appearance ; but of
late years they have
all disappeared.
It was during the
Grand Mastership of
Everhard de Bar, and
while that brave warrior,
with only 130
knights of the order,
, was fighting under the
banner of Louis VII.
at Damascus, that the
Grand Priory of Scotland
was instituted,
~~
KOMIEU?S HOUSE.
( F Y o ~ a Measured Dnrwing by T. Hamilton, pzr6Zislud in 1830.)
and the knight who presided over it was then
styled Magziter Domus T?YZi in Sotid, when
lands were bestowed on the order,first by King
David I., and then by many others. To all the
property belonging to the Temple a great value
was attached, from the circumstance that it
afforded, until the extinction of heritable jurisdictions
in 1747, the benefit of sanctuary; thus
the Temple tenements in Fifeshire are still termed
houses of refuge.
Tempillands, lyand
next ye Gray Friers?
Yard;? and in 1598,
?a temple tenement
lyand near the Gray
Friars ? Yett ? was confirmed
to James Kent
(Torphichen Charters).
On these the
iron cross was visible
in 1824.
On the dissolution
of the order all this
property in Scotland
was bestowed upon
their rivals, the
Knights of St. John of
Jerusalem ; and the
houses referred to became
eventually a part
of the barony of Drem
(of old a Temple
Priory) in Haddingtonshire,
the baron of
which used to hold
courts in them occasionally,
and here, till
I 747, were harboured
persons not free of
the city corporations, I
to the great annoyance
of the adherents of
local monopoly ; but
so lately as 1731, on
the 24th of August,
the Temple vassals
were ordered by the Bailie of Lord Torphichen,
to erect the cross of St. John ?on the Templelands
within Burgh, amerciating [fining] such as
did not affix the said cross.?? This was a strange
enactment in a country where it is still doubtful
whether such an emblem can figure as an ornament
upon a tomb or church. CIearly there must have
been some disinclination to affix the crosses,
otherwise the regulation would scarcely have been
passed.
buildings
shops
templar
knights
... Bow.1 THE TEMPLE LANDS. 321 and diversion from other patients, and his lucrum assans, he has lost more than ...

Book 2  p. 321
(Score 1.76)

132 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig.
oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the
hands of him, namely, who is called Hood of Leith,
from me and my heirs for ever, as freely, quietly,
and honourably free from all service and secular
exactions as any other gifts more freely and quietly
given, are possessed in the Kingdom of Scotland.
And that this gift may continue, I have set my
seal to this writing.?
Among those who witnessed this document were
the Lord Chancellor of Scotland, Hugh de Sigillo,
In May, 1398, Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig
granted to the citizens of Edinburgh, by charter,
full liberty to carry away earth and gravel, lying
upon the bank of the river, to enlarge their port of
Leith, to place a bridge over the said river, to
moor ships in any part of his lands, without the
said port, with the right of road and passage,
through all his lands of Restalrig. ?All which
grants and concessions be warranted absolutely,
under penalty of A200 sterling to be uptaken
RESTALRIG CHURCH, 1817. (A / t e r m Etckirrg8y3amcr Skene of Rdislaw.)
Bishop of Dunkeld (called the ?Poor Man?s
Bishop lJ) ; Walter, Abbot of Holyrood, previously
Prior of Inchcolm, who died in 1217 ; W. de
Edinham, Archdeacon of Dunkeld ; Master R. de
Raplaw ; and Robert Hood, of Leith.
In 1366, under David II., Robert Multerer
(Moutray?) received a charter of lands, within the
barony of Restalrig, before pertaining to John Colti ;
and some three years afterwards, John of Lestalrick
(sic) holds a charter of the mill of Instrother, in
Fifeshire, granted by King David at Perth.
Towards the latter part of the fourteenth century
the barony had passed into the possession of the
Logans, a powerful family, whose name is insepsrably
mingled with the history of Leith.
by the said burgesses and community in the name
of damages and expenses, and LIOO sterling to
the fabric of the church of St. Andrews before
the commencement of any plea.? (Burgh Charters.)
In 1413-4 another of his charters grants to the
city, ?that the?piece of ground in Leith between
the gate of John Petindrich and a wall newly built
on the shore of the water of Leith, should be free
to the said community for placing their goods and
merchandise thereon, and carrying the same to and
from the sea, in all time coming.?
Westward of the village church, and on the
summit of a rock overhanging Loch End, are the
massive walls of the fortalice in which the barons of
Restalrig resided ; but a modem house is engrafted ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Restalrig. oxen, and other things belonging to a field, by the hands of him, namely, ...

Book 5  p. 132
(Score 1.69)

LEZTH, AND THE NEW TOWN. 373
stairs and loop-hole windows, contrasted most strangely with the ailjoining fashionable
streets and squares.
This ancient barony and the surrounding lands comprehended within its jurisdiction
were granted by James VI. in 1568 to Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney, in whose time
the Tolbooth of the burgh appears to have been erected. The bishop surrendered the lands
to the Crown in 1587, in favour of Sir Lewis Bellenden of Auchnoul, Lord Justice-clerk ;
who obtained a charter from the king uniting them into a free barony and regality. Broughton
is reputed to have been notorious in old times as the haunt of witches, who were frequently
incarcerated in its Tolbooth. An execution of these victims of superstition, which
occurred there under peculiarly horrible circumstances, during the period of its possession
by the Bellendens, is thus noticed in the minutes of the Scottish Privy Council :-'' 1608,
December 1.-The Earl of Mar declared to the Council that some women were taken in
Broughton as witches, and being put to an assize, and convicted, albeit they persevered
constant in their denial to the end, yet they were burned quick, after such a cruel manner
that some of them died in despair, renouncing and blaspheming [God] ; and others, halfburned,
brak out of the fire, and were cast quick in it again, till they were burned to the
death." Sir William Bellenden, the grandson of Sir Lewis, disposed of the whole lands
to Robert, Earl of Roxburgh, in 1627, and by an agreement between him and Charles I.,
this ancient barony passed by purchase to the Governors of Heriot's Hospital in 1636, to
whom the superiority of Broughton was yielded by the Crown, partly in payment of
debts due by Charles I. to the Hospital. Thenceforward the barony was governed by
a bailiff nominated by the Governors of the Hospital, who possessed even the power
of life and death, the privilege of pit and gallom, which every feudal baron claimed
within his own bounds. In 1721, the Treasurer of the Hospital complains of the expense
incurred in prosecuting offenders in the case of some murders committed witkin the
regality ; but these onerous and costly privileges were at length abrogated in 1746, by the
act abolishing heritable jurisdictions, and the Governors a few years afterwards granted
the use of the Tolbooth to one of their tenants as a store-house, " reserving to the Hospital
a room for holding their baron courts when they shall think fit"2 The last occasion
on which Old Broughton was directly associated with any event of public importance,
was during the memorable campaign of 1650, which preceded the Battle of Dunbar,
when General Leslie made it his head-quarters, while he threw up the line of defence
from the base of the Calton Hill to Leith, which we have already described as the origin
of the great roadway that now forms the chief thoroughfare between Edinburgh and
Leith.
Beyond the village of Broughton lies that of Canonmills, on the Water of Leith, which
owes its origin to the same eource as the Burgh of Canongate, having been founded by
the Augustine Canons of Holyrood, doubtless for the use of their own vassals on the lands
of Brough'tbn; and their neighbouring possessions. Above this, on the Water of Leith,
are the villages of Stockbridge, Bell's Mills, and the Dean, all of considerable antiquity,
and now joined to the extended capital, or disappearing before the encroachments of its
modern streets. King David L grants to the Abbey of Holyrood, in its foundation
1 Letters on Demonology and Witchcraft, Sir Walter Scott, p. 315. ' Dr Steven's History of Heriot's Hospital, pp. 118, 119. ... AND THE NEW TOWN. 373 stairs and loop-hole windows, contrasted most strangely with the ailjoining ...

Book 10  p. 410
(Score 1.5)

$80 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa --
REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2.
(From a Drawing by Gcorp W. Simson )
CHAPTER XXV.
THE VILLAGE AND BAKONY OF BROUGHTON.
Brouzhton-The Villaee and Baronv-The Loan-Brouehton first mentioned-Feudal Superiors-Wltches Burned-Leslie?s Head-quarters-
-Gordon of E1lor;?s Children Murdered-Taken Rei Hand-Th
Churches erected in the Bounds of the Barony.
ACROSS the once well-tilled slope where now York
Place stands, a narrow and secluded way between
hedgerows, called the Loan of Broughton, led for
ages to the isolated village of that name, of which
but a few vestiges still remain.
In a mernoir of Robert Wallace, D.D., the eminent
author of the ?Essay on the Numbers of
Mankind,? and other works, an original member of
the Rankenion Club-a literary society instituted
at Edinburgh in 1716-we are told, in the Scots
Magazine for 1809, that ?he died 29th of July,
1771, at his cuzlntty lodgings in Broughton Loan,
in his 75th year.?
This baronial burgh, or petty town, about a
mile distant by the nearest road from the ancient
city, stood in hollow ground southward and eastward
from the line of London Street, and had its
own tolbooth and court-house, with several substantial
stone mansions and many thatched cot-
L?olbooth of the Buigh-The Mmute Books-Free Burgesses-Modern
tages, in 1780, and a few of the former are still
surviving.
Bruchton, or Broughton, according to Maitland,
signified the Castle-town. If this place ever possessed
a fortalice or keep, from whence its name
seems to be derived, all vestiges of it have disappeared
long ago. It is said to have been connected
with the Castle of Edinburgh, and that from the
lands of Broughton the supplies for the garrison
came. But this explanation has been deemed by
some fanciful.
The earliest notice of Broughton is in the charter
of David I. to Holyrood, ciwa A.D. 1143-7,
wherein he grants to the monks, ?Hereth, e2
Broctunam mm suis rectis a?iuisis,? &c. ; thus, with
its lands, it belonged to the Church till the Reforrnation,
when it was vested in the State. According
to the stent roll of the abbey, the Barony of
Broughton was most ample in extent,.and, among ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Bmughtoa -- REMAINS OF THE VILLAGE OF OLD RROUGHTON, Isj2. (From a Drawing by Gcorp ...

Book 3  p. 180
(Score 1.49)

46 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood
these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St.
Mary?s Isle, in Galloway, gifted by Fergus, Lord of
Galloway, who died a monk of Holyrood in 1161 ;
the Priory of Blantyre, secluded on a rock above
the Clyde ; Kowadill, in Hemes, gifted by Mac-
Leod of Herries ; Oransay and Colonsay-in the
former still stands their priory, built by a Lord of
the Isles, one of the finest relics of religious antiquity
in the Hebrides; the church of Melgynch,
granted to them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld,
in 1289; the church of Dalgarnock, granted to
them by John, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1322 j and
the church and vicarage of Kirkcudbright, by
of Haddington, mm ferra de Clerkynton, per rectas
divisas. In 1177 the monastery was still in the
Castle of Edinburgh. In 1180 Alexius, a subdeacon,
held a council of the Holy Cross near
Edinburgh, with reference to the long-disputed
consecration of John Scott, Bishop of St. Andrews,
when a double election had taken place.
VI. WILLIAM II., abbot in 1206. During his
time, John Bishop of Candida Casa resigned his
mitre, became a canon .of Holyrood, and was
buried in the chapter-house, where a stone long
marked his grave.
VII. WALTER, Prior of Inchcolm, abbot in
111. WILLIAM I. succeeded in 1152. He witnessed
several charters of Malcolm IV. and
William the Lion; and when he became aged and
infirm, he vowed to God that he would say his
Psalter every day. He enclosed the abbey with a
strong wall.
IV. ROBERT is said to have been abbot about
the time of William the Lion. ? He granted to
the inhabitants of the newly-projected burgh of the
Canongate various privileges, which were confirmed,
with additional benefactions, by David II., Robert
III., and James 111. These kings granted to the
bailies and community the annuities payable by the
burgh, and also the common muir between the ?
lands of Broughton on the west and the lands of
Pilrig on the east, on the north side of the road
from Edinburgh to Leith.?
V. JOHN, abbot in 1173, witnessed a charter of
Richard Bishop of St. Andrews (chaplain to
Malcolm IV.), granting to his canons the church
the chapel of St Mary.
XI, HENRY, the next abbot, was named Bishop
of Galloway in 1253; consecrated in 1255 by the
Archbishop of York,
XII. RADULPH, abbot, is mentioned in a gift of
lands at Pittendreich to the monks of St. Marie de
Newbattle.
XIII. ADAM, a traitor, and adherent of England,
who did homage to Edward I. in 1292, and for
whom he examined the records in the Castle of
Edinburgh. He is called Alexander by Dempster.
XIV. ELIAS 11. is mentioned as abbot at the
time of the Scots Templar Trials in 1309, and in a
deed of William Lamberton, Bishop of St. Andrews,
in 1316. In his time, Holyrood, like Melrose and
Dryburgh, was ravaged by the baffled army of
Edward 11. in 1322.
XV. SYMON OF WEDALE, abbot at the vigil of
St. Barnabas, 1326, when Robert I. held a Parliament
in Holyrood, at which was ratified a concord ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. IHolyrood these ecclesiastical foundations :-The Priory of St. Mary?s Isle, in ...

Book 3  p. 46
(Score 1.48)

many other lands, included those of ?Lochflatt,
Pleasance, Se Leonards, Hillhousefield, Bonnytoun,
and Pilrig,? &c.
This ancient barony and the surrounding lands
comprehended within its jurisdiction were granted
by James VI., in 1568, to Adam Bothwell, Bishop
of Orkney, in whose time the village tolbooth
would seem to have been erected; it remained
intact till 1829, and stood at the east of the present
Barony ?Street, a quaint edifice, with crowstepped
gables and dormer windows. Over its north door,
to which a flight of thirteen steps gave access, was
the date 1582. It was flanked on one side by a
venerable set of stocks, a symbol of justice rare in
Scotland, where the ironjougs were always used.
The bishop surrendered these lands to the
Crown in 1587, in favour of Sir Lewis Bellenden of
and -his successors had the power of appointing
bailies and holding courts within the limits of the
barony. Sir Lewis, a noted trafficker with yizards,
died on the 3rd of November, 1606, and was succeeded
by his son Sir William Bellenden, as Baron
of Broughton, which in those days was notorious
as the haunt of reputed witches and war!ocks, who
were frequently incarcerated in its old tolbooth.
An execution of some of these wretched creatures is
thus recorded in the minutes of the Privy Council :
?? 1608, December I. The Earl of Mar declared
to the Council that some women were taken in
Broughton as witches, and being put to an assize
and cmvicted, albeit they persevered in their
denial to the end, yet they were burned quick
(alive) after such a cruel manner that some of them
died in despair, renouiicing and blaspheming (God) ;
Broughton was the
scene of some encounters between the Queen?smen
and King?s-men in the time of the Regent
Morton. The latter were in the habit of defying
Kirkaldy?s garrison in the Castle, by riding about
the fields in range of his guns with handkerchiefs
tied to the points of their swords. One of these
parties, commanded by Henry Stewart, second
Lord Methven, in 1571, ?being a little too forward,
were severely reprimanded for their unreasonable
bravery ; for, as they stood at a place called
Broughton, a cannon bullet knocked his lordship
and seven men on the head; he was reputed
a good soldier, and had been more lamented had
he behaved himself more wisely.? (Crawford of
Drumsoy.)
Like other barons, the feudal superior of
Broughton had powers of ?pit and gallows? over
his vassals-so-called from the manner in which
criminals were executed-hanging the men upon a
gibbet, and drowning women in a pit as it was not
deemed decent to hang them. Sir Lewis Bellenden
In October, 1627, as
the Privy Council was sitting in its chamber at
the palace of Holyrood, a strange outrage took
place. John Young, a poulterer, attacked Mr.
Richard Bannatyne, bailiedepute of Broughton, at
the Council-room door, and struck him in the
back with his sword, nearly killing him on the
spot. In great indignation the Council sent off
Young to be tried on the morrow at the tolbooth,
with orders : ? If he be convict, that his Majesty?s
justice and his depute cause doom to be pronounced
against him, ordaining him to be drawn upon ane
cart backward frae the tolbooth to the place of
execution at the market cross, and there hangit to
the deid and quartered, his head to be set upon the
Nether Bow, and his hands to be set upon the
Water Yett.?
Sir William Bellenden, in 1627, disposed of the
whole lands to Robert, Earl of Roxburgh, and by
an agreement betweed hini and Charles I. this
ancient barony passed by purchase to the Governors
of Heriot?s Hospital in 1636, to whom the ... other lands, included those of ?Lochflatt, Pleasance, Se Leonards, Hillhousefield, Bonnytoun, and Pilrig,? ...

Book 3  p. 181
(Score 1.47)

THE NISBET$ OF DEAN. 65 The Water of Leith.1
Embosomed among venerable trees, the old
house of a baronial family, the Nisbets of Dean,
stood here, one of the chief features in the locality,
and one of the finest houses in the neighbourhood of
From the Water of Leith village a steep path
that winds up the southern slope of the river?s
bank on its west side, leads to the high ground
where for ages there stood the old manor-house of
Dean, and on the east the older village of the
same name.
During the reign of James IV., on the r5th
June, 1513, the Dean is mentioned in the Burgh
Records? as one of the places where the pest
existed; and no man or woman dwelling therein was
regard that the farnily-of-Dean is the only family
of that name in Scotland that has right, by consent,
to represent the original family of the name
of Nisbet, since the only lineal male representative,?
and armorial bearings, it was literally a history in
stone of the proud but now extinct race to which
it belonged.
H e n j Nisbet, descended from- the Nisbets of
Dalzell (cadets of the Nisbets of that ilk), who for
many years was a Commissioner to the Parliament
for Edinburgh, died some time before 1608, leaving
three sons : James, who became Nisbet of Craigintinnie,
near Restalrig; Sir William of Dean,
whose grandson, Alexander,. exchanged the lands
THE DEAN HOUSE, 1832. (Aftv a Dravving ay Rolcrl Gibb.)
permitted to enter the city, under pain, if a woman,
of being branded on the cheek, and if a man, of such
punishment as might be deemed expedient.
In 1532 James Wilson and David Walter were
committed prisoners to the Castle of Edinburgh,
for hamesucken and oppression done to David
Kincaid in the village of Deanhaugh.
In 1545 the Poultry Lands near Dean were held
mm qfi& PuZtrie Regim, as Innes tells us in his
Scottish ? Legal Antiquities.?
of Dean with his cousin, Sir Patrick Nisbet, the
first baronet; and Sir Patrick of Eastbank, a Lord
of Session.
The Nisbets of Dean came to be the head of the
house, as Alexander Nisbet records in his System
of Heraldry,? published in I 7 2 z ; soon after which,
he died, by the failure of the Nisbets of that ilk in
his own person-a contingency which led him to?lay
aside the chevron, the mark of fidelity, a mark of
cadency, used formerly by the house of Dean, in ... NISBET$ OF DEAN. 65 The Water of Leith.1 Embosomed among venerable trees, the old house of a baronial family, ...

Book 5  p. 65
(Score 1.46)

168 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
and cleaning the channel of the river at Leith.
(Burgh Records.)
In 1510, on the 9th March, James IV. granted
to the city of Edinburgh the port denominated the
New Haven, which he had lately formed on the seacoast,
with the lands thereunto belonging, lying
between the chapel of St. Nicholas at North Leith
and the lands of Wardie Brae, with certain faculties
and privileges ; and by another charter of the same
date he confinned that by Logan of Restalrig,
formerly mentioned.
ship laden with timber laid her cargo on the shore,.
as sold to the Provost and bailies; then came
Robert Bartoun, of Overbarton, called the Controller,
with a multitude of the men of Leith, and
?? masterfullie tuik the said tymmyr ? from the
treasurer and a bailie, which caused the Lords of
Council to issue a decree as to the privileges of the
city and the seaport, and that none but freemen .
were at liberty to buy from or sell to strangers at
the said port in time to come.
Fresh disputes about similar affairs seem to have 1
HALFWAY HOUSE, LEITH WALK.
In the followeing year eight mn, whose names
are recorded, were sworn on the holy evangels as
pioneers, to labour and serve the merchants at the
port and haven of Leith, and to keep ? the shore
clear of middings, fulzie, and sic stufe.?
In 1514 the tapsters and wine dealers in Leith
were summoned before the magistrates of Edinburgh
for injuring the privileges thereof by the sale
of wine within the sea-port.
Three years after this we find the Laird of Restalrig
entering a protest with regard to an arrestment
made on the shore of Leith, and maintaining
that it should not prejudice his rights as Baron of
Restalrig. It would seem that in 1517 a Dutch
occurred between the same parties in 1522-3,
and we find George, abbot of Holyrood, entering a
protest that whatever took place between them it
should not be to the prejudice of the Holyrood.
(Burgh Records.)
In 1528 a vessel belonging to the town, called
the Portuguese barque-most probably a prize
captured by the famous fighting Bartons of Leith
-was ordered to be sold to ? thaise that will gif the
maist penny thairfore?-i.e., to the highest bidder.
Two years afterwards Leith was afflicted by
a pestilence, and all intercourse between it and the
city was strictly forbidden, under pain of banishment
from the latter for ever. ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. and cleaning the channel of the river at Leith. (Burgh Records.) In 1510, on ...

Book 5  p. 168
(Score 1.45)

364 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [Newton.
gift ratified by Bishop Richard and Pope Gregory.
There are many places in Scotland of the name
of Newton.
In 1612 a Sir William Oliphant of Newton (but
which is not very apparent) was appointed King?s
Advocate, and held the office till 1626. ? He conquered
the lands of Newton, the barony of Strabroke,
and the Murrows, near Edinburgh,? says Scott of
Scotstarvit ; ?? but was unfortunate in his children
as any of the rest. For his eldest son, Sir James,
populous villages, consisting of long rows of red-tiled
cottages that border the wayside, which are chiefly
inhabited by colliers, and are known by the classical
names of Red Raw, Adam?s Raw, Cauld Cots, and
Cuckold?s Raw.
The present parish comprehends the ancient
parishes of Newton, on the south-east, and Wymet
-now corrupted, as we have said, into Woolmetwhich
also belonged to the abbey of Dunfermline,
and were incorporated with the lordship and
was expelled therefrom for having shot his own
gardener dead with 3 hackbut. His eldest sonnamely,
Sir James, by Inchbraikie?s daughter-in his
drunken humours stabbed his mother with a sword
in her own house, and for that fled to Ireland. He
disposed and sold the whole lands, and died in
@eat penury. The second brother, Mr. William,
lay many years in prison, and disposed that barony
of Strabroke and Kirkhill to Sir Lewis Stewart,
who at this day (about 1650) enjoys the same.?
Newton parish is finely cultivated, and forms
part of the beautiful and fertile district between
Edinburgh and the town of Dalkeith.
It abounds with coal, and there are numerous
wch James the Sith?s princely grant to Lord
Thirlstane.
Three-quarters of a mile north of Newton Church
is Monkton House, belonging to the Hopes of
Pinkie, a modem edifice near the Esk, but having
attached to it as farm offices an ancient structure,
stated to have been the erection and the favourite
residence of General Monk. Here is a spring
known as the Routing WeZZ, which is said, by the
peculiar sound it makes at times, to predict a
coming storm.
?The case is,? according to the ?Old Statistical
Account? (Vol. XVI.), ? that this well being dug
many fathoms deep through a rock in order to get ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH, [Newton. gift ratified by Bishop Richard and Pope Gregory. There are many places in ...

Book 6  p. 364
(Score 1.43)

-48 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd
mted with several mouldings, partly circular and
partly hexagonal. The eagle stands upon a globe,
and the shaft has been originally supported on
three feet, which are now gone. The lectern at
present is five feet seven inches in height, and is
inscribed :-?GEORGIUS CREICHTOUN, EPISCOPUS
DUNKENENSIS.?
He died on January 24th, 1543, and the probability
is that the lectern had been presented to
Holyrood on his elevation to Dunkeld as a farewell
? 1523. He had been previously provost of the
collegiate church of Corqtorphine, and was twice
High Treasurer, in 1529 and 1537. In 1538 he
was elected Bishop of KOSS, and held that office,
together with the Abbacy of Ferne, till his death,
jrst November, 1545.
XXIX ROBERT STUART, of Strathdon, a son.of
James V. by Eupham Elphinstone, had a grant of
the abbacy when only seven years of age, and in
manhood he joiiied the Reformation party, in 1559.
THE ABBEY CHURCH. (From an Engravitigin Maitlads ?History of Edinbaq-4.?)
gift, and that it had been stolen from the abbey
by Sir Richard Lea of Sopwell, who accompanied
the Earl of Hertford in the invasion of 1544, and
who carried off the famous brazen font from Holy-
TOO^, and presented it to the parish church of St.
Albans, with a magniloquent inscription. ?? This
font, which was abstracted from Holyrood, is no
longer known to exist, and there seems no reason
to doubt that the lectern, which was saved by
being buried during the Civil Wars, was abstracted
at the same time, and given to the church of St.
hlbans by the donor of the font.??
XXVII. WILLIAM DOUGLAS, Prior of Coldingham,
was the next abbot.
XXVIII. ROBERT CAIRNCROSS,abbot September
He died in r5z8.
He married in 1561, and received from his sister,
Queen Mary, a gift of some Crown lands in
Orkney and Shetland in 1565, with a large grant
out of the queen?s third of Holyrood in the following
year. In 1569 he exchanged his abbacy with
Adam Bishop of Orkney for the temporalities of
that see, and his lands in Orkney and Shetland
were erected into an earldom in his favour 28th
October, 1581.
XXX. ADAM BOTHWELL, who acquired the
abbacy in commendam by this strange and lawless
compact, did not find his position a very quiet one,
and several articles against him were presented in
the General Assembly in 1570. The fifth of these
stated that all the twenty-seven churches of the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. WolJlmd mted with several mouldings, partly circular and partly hexagonal. The eagle ...

Book 3  p. 48
(Score 1.41)

OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304
of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the
west angle of the southern transept, was a shield,
with the arms of Alexander Duke of Albany, who,
at Mary?s death, was resident at the Court of
the Duke of Gueldres. Among the grotesque
details of this church the monkey was repeated
many times, especially among the gurgoyles, and
crouching monsters, as corbels or brackets, seemed
in agony under the load they bore.
the entire teeth in the jaws, were found on the
demolition of the church in 1840. They were
placed in a handsome crimson velvet coffin, and
re-interred at Holyrood. Portions of her original
coffin are preserved in the Museum of Antiquities.
Edinburgh could ill spare so fine an example of
ecclesiastical architecture as this church, which was
long an object of interest, and latterly of regret;
for ?it is with some surprise,? says a writer,
TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, AND PART OF TRINITY HOSPITAL (TO THE RIGHT.
[Afn a Draw.ng @ Clerk of Eldin, 1780.1
Uthrogal, in Monimail, was formerly a leper
hospital, and with the lands of Hospital-Milne, in
the adjoining parish of Cults, was (as the Statistical
Account of Scotland says) given by Mary of
Gueldres to the Trinity Hospital, and after the
suppression, it went eventually to the Earls of
Leven. According to Sir Robert Sibbald, the
parish church of Easter Wemyss, in Fife, also
belonged ?? to the Collegiata Sancta Trinitis de
Edinburgh.?
,The parish churches of Soutra, Fala, Lampetlaw,
Kirkurd, Ormiston, and Gogyr, together with
the lands of Blance, were annexed to it in 1529.
The tomb of the foundress lay in the centre of
what was the Lady Chapel, or the sacristy of old,
latterly the vestry ; and therein her bones, with
?that the traveller, just as he emerges from the
temporary-looking sheds and fresh timber and
plaster-work of. the railway offices, finds himself
hurried along a dusky and mouldering collection of
buttresses, pinnacles, niches, and Gothic windows,
as striking a contrast to the scene of fresh bustle
and new life, as could well be ?conceived ; but the
vision is a brief one, and the more usual concomitants
of railways-a succession of squalid houses,
and a tunnel-immediately succeed it?
In 1502 the establishment was enlarged by the
addition of a dean and subdean, for whose support
the college received a gift of the rectory of the
parish church of Dunnottar; and owing to the
unsettled state of the country, it would appear that
Sir Edward Bonkel, the first Provost, had to apply ... AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith Wynd. 304 of the building, among these; on a buttress, at the west angle of the ...

Book 2  p. 304
(Score 1.4)

94 . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith.
the long hill on the south side of the West Port,
from Cowfeeder Row to the Bristo Port, the eastei
and wester crofts of Bristo, nearly down to the lsnds
of the abbey of Holyrood.
Of the old fortalice of this extinct race, and ol
their predecessors-which stood on the highesi
ground of Invorleith, a little way west of where
we find the modern house now embosomed among
luxuriant timber-not a vestige remains. Even
its ancient dovecot-in defiance of the old Scottish
superstition respecting the destruction of a dovecot
-has been removed. ?The beautiful and sequestered
footpath bordered (once ?) by hawthorn
hedges, known by the name of Gabriel?s Road,?
says a local writer, ?is said to have been constructed
for the convenience of the ancient lairds
of Inverleith to enable them to attend worship in
St. Giles?s.?
No relics remain of the ancient dwelling, unless
we except the archery butts, 600 feet apart,
standing nearly due south of Inverleith Mains, the
old home farm of the mansion, and the two very
quaint and ancient lions surmounting the pillars of
the gate at the north end of St. Bernard?s Row,
and which local tradition avers came from the
Castle of Edinburgh.
Of the different families who have possessed this
estate, and inhabited first the baronial tower, and
latterly the manor-house there, but a few disjointed
notices can alone be gleaned.
?The lands upon which I live at Inverleith,?
says the late eminent antiquary, Cosmo Innes, in
his ?Scottish Legal Antiquities,? ? which I can
trace back by charters into the possession of the
baker of William the Lion, paid, in the time of
King Robert I., a hundred shillings of stediizgs.
(The coinage of the Easterlings.) Some fields beside
me are still called the Baxteis (i.e., Baker?s)
Lands.?
And this is after a lapse of seven hundred
years.
Among the charters of Robert I. is one to
William Fairly of the lands of Inverleith, in the
county of Edinburgh. Among those of David 11.
is another charter of the same lands to William
Ramsay ; and another, by Robert II., of the same
to David Ramsay.
The date of the latter charter is given in the
?Douglas Peerage? as the 2nd of July, 1381, and
the recipient as the second son of the gallant and
patriotic Sir William Ramsay of Dalhousie, who
drew the English into an ambuscade at the battle
of Nisbetmuir in 1355, and caused their total
rout.
In time to come Inverleith passed to the Touris.
In 1425 John of Touris (or Towers) appears a?
a bailie of Edinburgh, with Adam de Bonkill and
John Fawside.
In 1487 William Touris of Innerleith (doubtless
his son) granted an annuity of fourteen merks for
the support of a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne?s
altar, in St. Cuthbert?s Church. George Touris was
a bailie of the city in 1488-92, and in the fatal year
of Flodden, 1513, 19th August, he is designated
?President? of the city, the provost of which-
Sir Alexander Lauder-was killed in the battle ;
and Francis Touris (either a son or brother) was
a bailie in the following year.
? In the ?? Burgh Records,? under date 1521, when
the Lairds of Restalrig and Craigmillar offered at
a Town Council meeting to be in readiness tw
resist the king?s rebels, in obedience to his royal
letters, for the safety of his person, castle, and
town; hereupon, ? Schir Alexander Touris of-
Innerleith protestit sik lik.?
In 1605, Sir George Touris of Garmilton,
knight, succeeded his father John of Inverleith in
the dominical lands thereof, the mill and craig ofi
that name, the muir and fortalice of Wardie, and
Bell?s land, alias the ? Lady?s land of Inverleith.?
Sir John Touris of Inverleith mamed Lady
Jean Wemyss, a daughter of the first Lord Wemyss
of Elcho, afterwards Earl, who died in 1649. In
1648 this Sir John had succeeded his father, Sir
Alexander Touris, knight in the lands of Inverleith,
Wardie, Tolcroce, Highriggs, &c.
The epoch of the Commonwealth, in 1652, saw
John Rocheid, heir to his father James, a merchant
and burgess of Edinburgh, in ?? the Craig of Inverleith,?
(? Retours.?) This would imply Craigleith,
as from the ?Retours ? in 1665, Inverleith, in
the parish of St. Cuthbert?s, went from James Halyburton,
proprietor thereof, to Alexander, his father.
And in ?? Dirleton?s Decisions,? under date 1678,
Halyburton, ? late of Inverleith,? is referred to as
a prisoner for debt at Edinburgh. So from them
the estate had passed to the Rocheids.
Sir James Rocheid of Inverleith, petitioned the
Privy Council in 1682, for permission to ?? enclose
and impark some ground,? under an Act of 1661 ;
and in 16yz he entailed the estate. In 1704 he was
made a baronet.
In the ?Scottish Nation,? we are told that
Rocheid of Inverleith, a name originating in a
personal peculiarity, had as a crest a man?s head
rough and hairy, the same borne by the Rocheids
of Craigleith. The title became extinct in the
person of Sir Jarnes, the second baronet, whose.
daughter and co-heiress, Mary, married Sir Francis
Kinloch, Bart., and her third son, on succeeding. ... . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Inverleith. the long hill on the south side of the West Port, from Cowfeeder Row to ...

Book 5  p. 94
(Score 1.39)

54 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Sciennes.
of the latter is a grand old thorn, which has always
borne the name of ?? St. Kathanne?s Thorn.?
In 1544 the convent at the 1Sciennes was destroyed
by the English ; and by the year 1567 its
whole possessions had passed into the hands of
laymen, and the helpless sisters were driven forth
from their cloisters in utter peniiry; nor would the
who also raised a cairn of stones from the
venerable building in his grounds at St. Eennet?s,
Greenhill. When St, Kathanne?s Place, near it, was
built, a large number of skulls and human bones
was found, only eighteen inches below the surface;
and thirty-six feet eastward, a circular stone well,
four feet in diameter and ten feet deep, was dis-
WW. VIEW, 1854. (dffera Drawing6y t/re Aut&.)
magistrates, until compelled by Queen Mary, says
Arnot, ? allow them a subsistence out of those very
funds with which their own predecessors had
endowed the convent.? The ? Burgh Records?
corroborate this, as in. 1563 the Prioress Christian,
Reatrix Blacater, and other sisters, received payment
of certain feu-duties for their sustenance out
of the proceeds of the suppressed house. At that
time its revenues were only A219 6s. sterling,
with eighty-six bolls of wheat and barley, and
one barrel of salmQn. (Maitland?s Hist.) Its
seal is preserved among king?s Collection,
No. 1136.
Dame Christian Ballenden, prioress after
the dispersion of the nuns (an event referred
to by Scott in his ? Abbot ?), feued the lands
in 1567 to Henry, second son of Henry
Kincaid of Wamston, by his first wife,
Margaret Ballenden, supposed to be a sister
I or relation. How long the Kincaids possessed
the lands is unknown, but about the middle
of the sixteenth century they seem to have
passed to Janet McMath, wife of William
Dick of Grange, and consequently, ancestress
of the Lauders of Fountainhall and Grange,
as shown in a preceding chapter.
~ A small fragment of the convent, twelve feet
high, measuring twenty-seven feet by twenty-four,
having a corbelled fireplace six feet six inches wide,
served-till within the last few years-as a sheepfold
for the flocks that pastured in the surrounding
meadow, and views of that fragment are still preserved.
The site of the convent was commemorated
by a tablet, erected in 1872, by George Seton,
Esq., representative of the Setons of Cariston,
,N1
In Pitcairn?s ? Criminal Trials ? we read
that in 1624 ?Harie Liston, indweller at the
back of the Pleasance, callit the Bak Row, was
delatit ? for assault and hamesucken on Robert
Young, ?( in his pease lands,? beside the Sciennes,
stabbing him, cutting his clothes, and drawing
him by the heels ?to ane brick vault in St.
Geillies Grange,? where he died, and was secretly
bhried; yet Liston was declared innocent by
RIOK OF THE RUINS OF THE CONVENT OF ST. KATHARINE,
SCIENNES, 1854. (Affirr a Drawing ay Ue Rvthm.) ?
the Court, and ?acquit of the slaughter and
murthour.?
In the Courant for 1761 ?the whole of the
houses and gardens at Sciennes, and the houses at
Goodspeed of Sciennes, near Edinburgh, at the
east end of Hope Park,? belonging to Sir Tames
Johnston (of Westerhall), were advertised for
sale.
The entrance-door of Old Sciennes House, entering
from the meadows, and removed in 1867, had ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [The Sciennes. of the latter is a grand old thorn, which has always borne the name of ...

Book 5  p. 54
(Score 1.39)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 191
James was one of the first sheriffs appointed by the crown. He obtained the
sheriffdom of Tweeddale, his native county ; and it may be noticed that he was
the last survivor of all those appointed at the same period. His conduct as a
judgd in this situation-the more irksome from its being the first of a new order
of things-proved so highly satisfactory, that in 1764 he was promoted to
the office of Solicitor-General for Scotland, and elected to represent his native
county in the British Parliament. A few years after he was still farther
honoured by the appointment of Lord Advocate; and in 1777, on the death of
Lord Chief-Baron Ord, he was appointed Lord Chief-Baron of his Majesty's
Court of Exchequer.' This situation he held until 1801, when he found it
necessary to retire from public business. The title of Baronet was then conferred
upon him (July 16, lSOl), as a mark of royal esteem for his long and faithful
services.
Sir James, like his father, had early formed a just estimate of the importance
of agriculture as a study; and, even amid the laborious duties of his official
appointments, was enthusiastic in its pursuits. On his farm of Wester-Deans,
in the parish of Newlands, he had turnips in drills, dressed by a regular process
of horse-hoeing, so early as 1757 ; and he was among the first, if not the very
first, in Scotland who introduced the light horse-plough, instead of the old
cumbrous machine which, on the most favourable soil, required four horses and
a driver to manage them.
For the purpose of enlarging his practical knowledge, Sir James travelled
over the most fertile counties of England, and embraced every opportunity which
could possibly tend to aid him in promoting his patriotic design of improving
the agriculture of his native country. The means of reclaiming waste lands in
particular occupied a large share of his attention. His first purchase was a portion
of land, remarkable for its unimprovable appearance, lying upon the upper
extremities of the parishes of Newlands and Eddleston. This small estate,
selected apparently for the purpose of demonstrating the practicability of a
favourite theory, dbtained the designation of the ' I Whim," a name which it has
since retained. He also rented, under a long lease, a considerable range' of contiguous
ground from Lord Portmore. Upon these rude lands, which consisted
chiefly of a deep moss soil, Sir James set to work, and speedily proved what
could be accomplished by capital, ingenuity, and industry. In a few years the
'' Whim" became one of the most fertile spots in that part of the country.
His next purchase was the extensive estate of Stanhope? lying in the parishes
of Stobo, Drummellier, and Tweedsmuir, and consisting principally of mountainous
sheep-walks. Here, too, he effected great improvements, by erecting enclosures
where serviceable-planting numerous belts of young trees-and building com-
1 He was the first Scotsman who held this office since the establishment of the Court in 1707. * These lands belonged to Sir Alexander Murray of Stanhope, Baronet-the husband of that Lady
Murray, whose beautiful memoirs of her father and mother were, for the first time, printed under the
superintendence of Thomas Thomson, Esquire, from the original MS., in 1822, 8vo. Her husband
ruined himself by his. wild speculations, and his paternal estate passed to other hands. ... SKETCHES. 191 James was one of the first sheriffs appointed by the crown. He obtained the sheriffdom ...

Book 8  p. 269
(Score 1.37)

lies directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's
Seat, and has long'been one of the daily postal
districts of the city.
Overhung by the green slopes and grey rocks ok
Arthur's Seat, and shut out by its mountainous
mass from every view of the crowded city at its
further base in Duddingston, says a statist, writing
in 1851, a spectator feels himself sequestered from
the busy scenes which he knows to' be in his
immediate vicinity, as he hears their distant hum
upon the passing breezes by the Willow Brae on
the east, or the gorge of the Windy Goule on the
south; and he looks southward and west over a
glorious panorama of beautiful villas, towering ,
'
From the style of the church and the structure of
its arches, it is supposed to date from the epoch of
the introduction of Saxon architecture. A semicircular
arch of great beauty divides the choir from
the chancel, and a Saxon doorway, with fantastic
heads and zig-zag mbuldings, still remains in the
southern face of the tower. The entrance-gate to
its deep, grassy, and sequestered little buryingground,
is still furnished with the antique chain and
collar of durance, the terror of evildoers, named
the jougs, and a time-worn Zouping-on-stone, for the
use of old or obese horsemen.
Some interesting tombs are to be found in the
burying-ground ; among these are the marble obelisk
castles, rich coppice,
hill and valley, magnificent
in semi-tint, in
light and shadow, till
the Pentlands, or the
1 on e 1 y Lam m er m u i r
ranges, close the distance.
The name of this
hamlet and parish has
been a vexed subject
amongst antiquaries,
but as a surname it is
not unknown in Scotland
: thus, among the
missing charters of
Robert Bruce, there is
one to John Dudingstoun
of the lands of
Pitcorthie, in Fife; and
among the gentlemen
GATEWAY OF DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, SHOWING TIIE
JOUCS AND LOUPING-ON-STONE.
slain at Flodden in I 5 I 3
there was Stephen Duddingston of Kildinington,
also in Fife. Besides, there is another place of the
same name in Linlithgowshire, the patrimony of the
Dundases.
The ancient church, with a square tower at its
western end, occupies a green and rocky peninsula
that juts into the clear and calm blue loch. It is
an edifice of great antiquity, and belonged of old
to the Tyronensian Monks of Kelso, who possessed
it, together with the lands of Eastern and Western
Duddingston ; the chartulary of that abbey does not
say from whom they acquired these possessions, but
most probably it was from David I.
Herbert, first abbot of Kelso, a man of great
learning and talent, chamberiain of the kingdom
under Alexander I. and David I., in 1128, granted
the lands of Eastern and Western Duddingston to
Reginald de Bosco for an annual rent of ten marks,
to be paid by him and his heirs for ever.
erected to the memory
of Patrick Haldane of
Gleneagles by his unfortunate
grandson, whose
fate is also recorded
thereon; and that of
James Browne, LLD.,
Advocate, the historian
of the Highlands and
Highland clans, in the
tower of the church.
In the register of
assignations for the
minister's stipends in
the year 1574, presented
in MS. by
Bishop Keith to the
Advocates' Library,
Duddingston is said to
have been a joint dependence
with the
Castle of Edinburgh
upon the Abbey of Holyrood. The old records
of the Kirk Session are only of the year 1631, and
in the preceding year the lands of Prestonfield
were disjoined from the kirk and parish of St.
Cuthbert, and annexed to those of Duddingston.
On the r8th'of May, 1631, an aisle was added
to the church for the use of the Laird of Prestonfield,
his tenants and servants.
David Malcolme, minister here before I 741,
was an eminent linguist in his time, whose writings
were commended by Pinkerton, and quoted with
respect by Gebelin in his Monde Plillit$ and
Bullet in his Mkmoirrs Celtiques; but the church is
chiefly famous for the incumbency of the Rev. John
Thomson, a highly distinguished landscape painter,
who from his early boyhood exhibited a strong
predilection for art, and after being a pupil of
Alexander Nasmyth, became an honorary member
of the Royal Scottish Academy. He became ... directly at the south-eastern base of Arthur's Seat, and has long'been one of the daily ...

Book 4  p. 314
(Score 1.36)

310 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Granton.
Scots now takefl this to be a prophecy of the
thing which has happened. ? The next day,
4th May, the army landed two miles bewest the
town of Leith, at a place called Grantaine Cragge,
every man being so.prompt, that the whole army
was landed in four hours.? As there was no opposition,
a circumstance unlooked for, and having
guides, ?? We put ourselves in good order of war,??
continues the .narrator, ?marching towards Leith in
three battayles (columns), whereof my lord admiral
led the vanguard, the Earl of Shrewsbury the rearguard,
the Earl of Hertford the centre, with the
artillery drawn by men. In a valley on the right
of the said town the Scots were assembled to the
number of five or six thousand horse, besides foot,
to impeach our passage, and had planted their
artillery at two straits, through which we had to
pass. At first they seemed ready to attack the
vanguard.? But perceiving the English ready to
pass a ford that lay between them and the Scots,
the latter abandoned their cannon, eight pieces in
all, and fled towards Edinburgh j the first to quit
the field was ? the holy cardynall, lyke a vallyant
champion, with him the governor, Therles of
Huntly, Murray, and Bothwell?
The.fame of Granton for its excellent freestone
is not a matter of recent times, as in the City
Treasurer?s accounts, 1552-3, we read of half an
ell of velvet, given to the Laird of Carube
(Carrubber?) for ?licence to wyn stones on his
lands of Granton, to the schoir, for the hale space
of a year.?
In 1579 a ship called the Jinas of Leith
perished in a storm upon the rocks at Granton,
having been blown from her anchorage. Upon
this, certain burgesses of Edinburgh brought an
action against her owner, Vergell Kene of Leith,
for the value of goods lost in the said ship ; but he
urged that her wrecking was the ?providence of
God,? and the matter was remitted to the admiral
and his deputes (Privy Council Reg.)
In 1605 we first find a distinct mention legally,
of the old fortalice of Wardie, or Granton, thus in
the ?Retours.? ? Wardie-muir cum turre et fortalicio
de Wardie,? when George Tours is served heir to
his father, Sir John Tours of Inverleith, knight,
14th May.
In 1685, by an Act of Parliament passed by
James VII., the lands and barony of Royston
were ?ratified,? in favour of George Viscount
Tarbet, Lord Macleod, and Castlehaven, then
Lord Clerk Register, and his spouse, Lady Anna
Sinclair. They are described as comprehending
the lands of Easter Granton with the manor-house,
dovecot, coalheughs, and quarries, bounded by
?
.
Granton Bum; the lands of Muirhouse, and
Pilton on the south, and the lands of Wardie and
Wardie Bum, the sea links of Easter Granton, the
lands of Golden Riggs or Acres, all of which had
belonged to the deceased Patrick Nicoll of Royston.
The statesmen referred to was George Mackenzie,
Viscount Tarbet and first Earl of Cromarty,
eminent for his learning and abilities, descended
from a branch of the family of Seaforth, and born
in 1630. On the death of his father in 1654, with
General Middleton he maintained a guerrilla warfare
with the Parliamentary forces, in the interests
of Charles 11. ; but had to leave Scotland till the
Restoration, after which he became the great confidant
of Middleton, when the latter obtained the
chief administration of the kingdom.
In 1678 he was appointed Justice-General for
Scotland, in 1681, a Lord of Session and Clerk
Register, and four years afterwards James VII.
created him Viscount Tarbet, by which name he is
best known in Scotland.
Though an active and not over-scrupulous agent
under James VII., he had no objection to transfer
his allegiance to William of Orange, who, in 1692,
restored him to office, after which he repeatedly
falsified the records of Parliament, thus adding
much to the odium attaching to his name. In
1696 he retired upon a pension, and was created
Earl of Cromarty in 1703. He was a zealous
supporter of the Union, having sold his vote for
A300, for with all his eminence and talent as a
statesman, he was notoriously devoid of principle.
He was one of the original members of the Royal
Society, and was author of a series of valuable
articles, political and historical works, too
numerous to be noted here. He died at New
Tarbet in 1714, aged eighty-four, and left a son,
who became second Earl of Cromarty, and another,
Sir James Mackenzie, Bart., a senator with the
title of Lord Royston. His grandson, George,
third Earl of Cromarty, fought at Falkirk, leading
400 of his clan, but was afterwards taken prisoner,
sent to the Tower, and sentenced to death. The
latter portion was remitted, he retired into exile,
and his son and heir entered the Swedish service;
but when the American war broke out he raised the
regiment known as Macleod?s Highlanders (latterly
the 71st Regiment), consisting of two battalions,
and served at their head in the East Indies.
Lord Royston was raised to the bench on the
7th of June, I 7 10 ; and a suit of his and the Laird of
Fraserdale, conjointly against Haliburton of Pitcur,
is recorded in ? Bruce?s Decisions ? for 17 15.
He is said to have been ?one of the wittiest ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Granton. Scots now takefl this to be a prophecy of the thing which has happened. ? ...

Book 6  p. 310
(Score 1.34)

216 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith
chapel of St. Jamey at Newhaven, belonged to
the preceptory at Leith; and also the little chapel
be payit as follows-namely, best of the third of
the Preceptone of Sanct Antonis LIO, and the
passed in 1587 the preceptory
of St. Anthony
and the chapel of St.
James at Newhaven were,
with other benefices, annexed
to the Crown.
Maitland observes that
the vestry of Leith, after
the Reformation, ? having
purchased the lands and
properties of divers religious
houses there and in Newhaven,
King James VI.
granted and confirmed the
same by charter in 1614
for the use of the poor.
The Session elected the
Baron Bailie of St. Anthony,
who exercised jurisdiction
in Leith and Newhaven, holding his court at
uil! and giving sentence without appeal, thus :-
??At Leith, 9th February, 1683.? On Monday
last St. Anthonis Court was holden in this place,
and is to be keepit att Newheavin at ye first conveniencie.?
The last Baron Bailie was Thomas
THE ARMORIAL BEARINGS OF MARIA DE LORRAINE, 1560.
... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith chapel of St. Jamey at Newhaven, belonged to the preceptory at Leith; and also ...

Book 6  p. 216
(Score 1.33)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 129
neither commodious nor elegant. He therefore had it immediately pulled down,
and a splendid new castellated edifice erected in its stead Of the buildings
and lands we are tempted to quote the following description, written a few
years after the completion of the structure :-
“ It is one of the finest and most magnificent buildings in the west of Scotland ; nor is the
noble appearance without disgraced by the finishing and furniture within-everything there is
elegant and princely. Its site is indeed low, and still more concealed by being embosomed
among fine old elms. It stands upon an extensive lawn, which is converted into the most
beautiful pleasure-grounds. Nature here has put on none of her bold and majestic features ;
but art has done much. Neither the towering rock, nor extended lake, nor navigable river,
adds to its magnificence ; only a small river runs past it on the east and north, which is rendered
much broader than it naturally is by being dammed back. On the banks of this stream
the most delightful walks are formed. As you walk along, at one time a thicket of shrubbery
conceals the water from your view, and at another it unexpectedly bursts upon your sight, and
raises the pleasurable feelings, no less by surprise than by the beauty it displays ; small, however,
as the river is, it adds much to the beauty of the scenery ; and the vast number of trout,
which on a fine evening are seen sporting on its surface, tend much to increase those tranquil
but pleasing emotions, which the song of the grove and the smiling landscape never fail to
excite in the mind which has a taste for the beauties of nature, and a heart fitted for relishing
the enjoyment of innocent pleasures. To these the humane and benevolent mind receives a
vast accession, on seeing around it the timorous hare sporting unmolested in numbers. This
persecuted creature finds here a safe asylum throughout this extensive policy, which contains
nearly fourteen hundred acres ; not one of them is allowed to be molested or killed. On the
dusk of a summer evening they reward his lordship’s protection with their confidence, by often
playing their innocent gambols before him, round one of the largest and most beautiful chestnut
trees I ever saw, which stands on the green exactly opposite to the house.”
The Earl was an excellent farmer, and continued to improve on the plans of
his predecessors, by draining and cultivating the waste lands, and otherwise
increasing the value of his estates. Among other instances of his lordship’s
anxiety to create sources of local attraction niay be mentioned the institution of
“ Bogside Eaces,” which, during his lifetime, from being well attended by
gentlemen of the turf, were a vast benefit to the town of Irvine.
His attention, however, was by no means confined to his own immediate
locality, the affairs of the county, and indeed all public matters, received a
corresponding share of his attention. On the death of the Earl of Errol, in
1798, he was elected one of the representative Peers of Scotland; and was
again re-chosen at the general election in 1802.
The most extensive of all the Earl of Eglinton’s undertakings was one which,
although it proved in some measure ruinous to himself, now bids fair to realise
some of those advantages to his descendants, which he of course never could
expect to witness himself. We refer to the formation of the harbour of
Ardrossan, and the projected canal from thence to Glasgow. The advantages
presented by such a proposal appeared so manifest to the Earl, that he entered
upon the speculation with the utmost enthusiasm, calculating upon his views
being at once seconded by the commercial capitalists of Glasgow and Paisley,
if not by some of the proprietors, whose lands would be considerably increased
in value by the canal. The primary object of the design was to cut off the
circuitous and even dangerous navigation of the Clyde, which, previous to the
v
VOL. 11. S ... SKETCHES. 129 neither commodious nor elegant. He therefore had it immediately pulled down, and a ...

Book 9  p. 172
(Score 1.33)

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